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Found 59 results

  1. Castle Monster X 25.2v ESC, 8A BEC W/1515-2200kV Sensored for a Savage XL Flux running 2S (x2) - what do you think?
  2. Hi all, nothing special about this build but I am keen to share my experience with the 505210 CVA shocks and my thoughts om them and the ideal eyelets to get the ideal ride height. Basic assembly done.. nothing special. In photo #1 I have decided to ignore the instructions and keep that retaining screw in there. It may actually prevent the trans from slapping when hitting the gas. I am aware of the ampro chassis brace or 5th shock mod but in no great rush to do either. I had this kit a couple years ago in a Black Edition colourway with 100% stock set up. TLDR: 17.5 brushless is about the same speed. I didn't want to do anything too crazy, fearing that the 1987 gearbox may not handle it. Caution on the placement and rotation of the motor. the next increment anti-clockwise makes the wires hit the shock. A clockwise increment makes the wires hit the chassis. Below. I've chosen XT60 connectors as I'm familiar with XT90's on my other stuff and I am going to run this with my 2S shorty Lipo's via an adapter that I will make. The 3 motor wires go nicely through the rear parcel tray. The ESC is a Hobbywing Xerun 2.1 (Justock) - it belonged to my first indoor offroad 1/10 buggy and has since been superseded.
  3. I've got this old Hobbywing Xerun that's a few years old and last used it 1.5 years ago for mod indoor buggy racing 10.5.... fast forward and I've put it into my Lunch Box with a 17.5 sensored motor and I want to have reverse reinstated. I have no program card... I know how to program my bigger Max6 no problem. This thing just goes beyond calibration mode and keeps flashing red with no other noises. Can someone please help? Has anyone had this issue? I'm not getting those wonderful beeps
  4. Hi All, I have just received a Lunch Box and should receive ReRe Egress next week for lockdown projects. Could I please get some friendly advice on the below and experiences if any? I am slightly concerned that these kits may suffer if too much power is put through them. I am used to running 2S offroad AE 6.2 & 74.1 mod class buggies @ 10.5 and 8.5t, but I don't 100% understand why you can't run that spec in a Tamiya Under the advice of some friends I have narrowed down 2 systems but not sure which one should go in which car. Both RC's will be for gentle bashing only on smooth surfaces (especially the Egress) and run on 2s Lipo power. At hand I have (A) Hobbywing XeRun 120A ESC + 17.5 brushless Surpass motor And a friend suggested that I get a simple (easy to get in my country during lockdown): (B) Hobbywing Quicrun WP-1060 + 23T Tamiya RZ motor. [brushed system] I had a black edition LBox a few years ago and ran it stock, and the speed was a little light for me so I'd be keen on getting it a little speedier. Hope you can shed some thoughts on above suitability for each of my builds. I have to admit from a aesthetic point of view, option (B) would look nicer in the Egress with less wires to manage, plus a genuine Tamiya motor too. It would make more sense for the Egress to be the faster of the two?
  5. I thought I had a thread about this but can't find it so if I already have one, it can be merged. I built this a good few years ago but someone has been asking questions so thought I would post a few pics of the install. It has been years since I worked on this. Gave up after around 35?mph decided that I couldn't really compete with 1/10 scale in the top speed Tamiya thread but I believe it's still in the top 20. Originally bought as a non runner for less than £20. Added M chassis rally block tyres. Ezrun 1/18th? It's a 2030 can at around 5700kv I think?. If I remember right, it's the 12turn motor. And the ESC takes 3s with multiple programmable features. Standard 1/10 servo held with servo tape and a cable tie through chassis to prevent any movement. Removed part of the top deck to get battery lower down. Running a badly puffed 2200mah 2,s. It puffed in a different car, it should be plenty for this car. Ball ends and adjusters with M3 threaded rod. Bottom of chassis with battery door open. I think that's it, if I remember anything else or you want to know anything, please ask.
  6. Hi all, thought I'd share a recent beach run with the Lunchbox. With some mods the Lunchbox can handle quite well: And some at regular speed:
  7. Shifted this thread over here as I posted in General Discussions as my first post before I knew about how things worked. Also, work on the car escalated and I wanted to keep a note of ongoing upgrades/changes. Hopefully of interest to DT03 runners/buyer. I have an original Thunder Dragon from 1988 which has had a bit of a restomod, but getting that sorted recently led to the purchase of a cheap Racing Fighter from Germany as I've never had a 2WD buggy before. First buggy full build in about 30 years, although the Thunder Dragon has been torn down and rebuilt several times. Really enjoyed it. I had an old Grasshopper2 shell in my bit box from back in the day, and I'd never painted a shell before. I don't like the modern look of buggies, being a child of the 80's I love the older buggies so I decided to have a go and some light body mods to fit it to my DT03. It was already slightly modified around the front shocks to fit on my Thunder Dragon. Here's a couple of trial fits with the primer on, trying to figure out the mountings and proportion. Couldn't resist getting the wheels on to see what it might look like: Figured out the body mods, enlarging the front hole to use the central front mount on the chassis, and adding holes in the haunches for the large l-shaped body mount towers that came with the kit. I ended up going narrower than I could have got away with on the front cuts. I chopped the DT-03 suspension mount in the centre to get the front of the shell on and off. Not bothered about the nth degree of wheel control and can always get the fancy TRF carbon one if I feel the need in future. After a couple of aborted attempts at orange from Tamiya and Halfords, and neither before strong enough for my liking and went for it with neon orange. Stickers are from MCI Racing, with red replaced with black, and yellow replaced with dark grey. Pretty pleased with how it came out. Another modern look I'm not keen on is the super short front overhang. I like the big 80s bull bars, so inspired by AMPRO Engineering on Youtube I knocked up a bull bar bumper in 3D CAD and got it 3D printed from Shapeways. Only cost a tenner! Sets the stance off nicely, I think. I do love the kit black star dish wheels though. As for the car, I loved building it and it seems solid. I've never had brushless before either, so I went for a 13.5R Speed Passion MMM motor from Modelsport who also did my some leads with tamiya plugs, and a steel 17t pinion and a bearing set to start with. The kit came with the CVA dampers with the fixed solid plates on top of the shafts. Initially I was a bit disappointed. I'm certainly no expert and have no plans to race, but it was very understeery and bottomed out a lot. Due to older equipment I have already, I still use ACOMS 27MHz radio and NiMH batteries to keep costs down which I've since learnt are on the heavy side, but they work fine in my Thunder Dragon! So, after going down the rabbit hole of what mods to do where, trying not to spend a fortune on hop ups and learning as I go, this I think is my basics for getting the DT-03 to somewhere near it's potential and also hopefully help some newbies looking at getting their DT-03 running nice in my opinion: 1) Junk the stock tyres. The deep rib fronts that come with the Racing Fighter in particular are useless on hard surfaces and I generally muck about in the street or at the yard at work. With the fiesty motor I started tearing through the rears too, and have ended up with Schumacher Mini Pin Yellows on the stock rims. Works great, and the yellows last longer than the blue counter-intuitively, because the blue is harder it span up too easily on hard surfaces and wore out. On things like the pump track in the pictures, the mini pins are immense. 2) Connected to 1 - Be honest about where you drive. Having burnt through cool looking buggy tyres I now have a second set of wheels (Schumacher Flexlite read, Tamiya Dish Front both in black) with Schumacher RT1s and medium inserts for tarmac. 3) Suspension - I'm using the DF03 (not a typo, the 4WD car) setting springs, hard rear, softest front. Both are firmer than the kit springs. The DT-03 settings springs were right out because the colours would have looked rubbish if I'd needed the red ones. Yes, I am enough of a tart for that. Plus, couldn't see the point of a softer set of springs if the kit springs were in the middle. I saw the DF03 springs suggested on a thread on here I think. Great call. I got the TRF 54043 piston rods for the rear shock and standard CVA mini shock shafts 50601 for the front and used the kit sprues and some e-clips to convert the dampers to proper pistons. After some experimentation I'm running single hole pistons with the kit Soft Tamiya 400 CST oil 4) I got the anti roll bars, but have ended up not using them. Now I have the suspension firm enough to hold the car up it handles fine without the anti roll bars. IMHO. 5) I used the leftover ball studs from the unused roll bars to replace as many of the step screws in the damper mounts as possible. Much nicer and less rattly I got a bag of ball connectors (50591) to finish the job off, although the fronts need a bit of filing to get them to fit the wishbones. 6) Turnbuckles - Don't be a cheapskate like me and pick up a cheap DT02 set, as the steering arms don't fit! These do seen good for getting the grip up though. 2-3 neg both ends. 7) Driveshafts - I had no issues with the toughness of the plastic driveshafts, but I couldn't believe how much they restrict suspension movement. I didn't want to spend out on Universals as I'm not racing. I ended up taking a leaf out of the Sand Viper book and went to the metal driveshaft and cups. Only cost about a tenner for the parts, and the car stands up at the rear about another 10mm! They look better too, IMHO. Parts are: Shafts - Tamiya 9805551 Outdrives - Tamiya 9804237 Hub end cups - Tamiya 50823 8) Geared diff with the kit seems fine. I stuffed it with grease as advised somewhere on the internet and does fine for me. 9) Kimborough servo saver was a fiver well spent. Much more crisp steering. 10) Not sure if the Hop Up servo mount was £18 well spent, but it looks pretty and does look into the chassis and servo much more firmly. I'm open on this one as it's pretty expensive. Hope you like it, and hope that helps anyone looking at getting a DT-03. Cheers!
  8. A while ago, I planned on uprating my son's ride on car to twin brushless. (http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=71240) Well, that project has been put on a back shelf, and in the mean time I've been working on his quad. I'd already uprated the motor to a 12Tx2 brushed with a 7.4v LiPo, which really flew, but wanted to complete the challenge of making it brushless. The main complication was translating a simple on off button to an ESC. In the end, I did it with a relay which switches between two servo testers. One set at neutral, and the other at a forward speed. Needless to say, it's ridiculously fast and my son loves it. Plus, I can dial the speed down to 'normal' speed for when a younger child wants to play on it. So, here are a few photos of the results.
  9. Tamiya TRF Transpeed Brushless Octa-Wind 4.5T Motor. BRAND NEW, UNOPENED and in the UK now, so no long wait or disappointment: Other sellers sometimes only order from Tamiya when you’ve paid! If it’s out of stock you then face a very long wait, and then sometimes disappointment when it can’t be supplied. Save the worry and be reassured of a quick and guaranteed delivery: £140.00
  10. Tamiya Volac - BL2 Brushless Esc - 42144 - Brand New and unopened. Other sellers sometimes only order from Tamiya when you’ve paid! If it’s out of stock you then face a very long wait, and then sometimes disappointment when it can’t be supplied. Save the worry and be reassured of a quick and guaranteed delivery. In the UK now so no waiting or disappointment. Took months to get and not cheap, but fast becoming collectable. This is the ESC that Marc Rheinland used to win the 2008 IRMAR World Championship. For expert use: £320.00
  11. Hi, I have a few Tamiya, TRF tools and parts for sale: 1x Tamiya - 45057 TBLE-O2S Brushless ESC - £22.00 1x Tamiya TRF - 42147 Hex Wrench 2.5mm - £28.00 1x Tamiya TRF - 42161 Screwdriver M - £28.00 4x Tamiya TRF - 42351 Centre Pully - £22.00 each All plus postage. Feel free to respond here or email me directly: helenstott17@yahoo.co.uk
  12. Having cut my 40-something year old teeth on Bigwig and Boomerang re-res last year, I decided it was time to try something a bit more complicated and 'modern'. I went for a DF03 Dark Impact, and bought the kit last August and spent the following months reading up on previous builds, known weak spots and tracking down the necessary (and some totally unnecessary!!) Hop Ups. Having finally sorted out a hardened steel main gear for the slipper shaft, and suddenly having a lot of extra spare time, I decided to get going. The full list of hop-ups I managed to track down is: Square RC SDI-27R Hardened Steel Rear Differential Joint Tamiya 53925 Slipper Clutch with RW Racing Hardened Steel Main Gear Pinion 3mm Ceramic Silicon Nitride Differential Bearing Balls Tamiya 53922 05 Module Pinion Gears (23T / 25T) Tamiya 53923 05 Module Pinion Gears (27T / 29T) 4x 850zz Ball Raced Bearings Tamiya 53931 Centre One Way Set Tamiya 53953 Front One Way Set Tamiya 53924 Heat Sink Bar Set Tamiya 53948 Aluminium One-Piece Propeller Cup Joint (x2) 3 Racing DF03-05/LB Aluminium Propeller Shaft Square TC SDI-3 Graphite Front Damper Tower 3 Racing DF03-06/WO Rear Damper Tower Xtra Speed XS-OM27001 Front Damper Set Xtra Speed XS-OM227002 Rear Damper Set 3 Racing DF03-22/LB Rear Suspension Stiffener Square RC SDI-17 Steering Crank Tamiya 53941 Aluminium Steering Turnbuckle Tamiya 53940 Hard Turnbuckle Set Tamiya 51000 Hi-torque servo saver Tamiya 54121 Aluminium horn for hi- torque servo saver Tamiya 53791 Universal Shafts (x2) Yeah Racing DF03-006BU Aluminium Front Knuckle Arm Square RC SDI-36 Aluminium Front C-Hub Square Racing SDI-42 Rear Hub T-Bone Racing 56004 DF03 Front Bumper T-Bone Racing 56002 DF03 Rear Bumper Tamiya 53949 Aluminium Battery Stopper Pin Yeah Racing DF03-021BU Aluminium Battery Holder Tamiya 53984 Buggy Rear Wing Tamiya 53569 Aluminium Clamp Wheel Hub Tamiya 53161 Anodized 4mm Lock Nuts (Gold) Core RC CR062 Small Body Clips (Gold) Hobbywing Quicrun 10BL120 ESC Hobbywing Quicrun 3650 Sensored Motor 8.5T Lots of new things to learn with this build...changing gears on shafts (already done!), soldering, building and breaking in ball diffs. Going to take my time and try and avoid too many hiccups.
  13. In the dim and distant past pre Covid 19 Jadlam had Dual Riders on special. Now I didnt need one, in fact I thought they were a bit of a gimmick, however after watching a few youtube videos thought it might be fun so pulled the trigger. Once it arrived I thought it might be fun to hop it up a bit so started collecting Tamiya and YR hop ups along with a Hobbywing brushless combo. I also bought a lipo as I thought this might be a good way to try them out. I already had a charger that will do lipos. Whilst looking for hopups on RCMart I came across a body kit of a Pizza/Chinese delivery trike on the T3-03. In the basket it went!!! All of the stuff was here just after lockdown started. I had a few other things to do so I put it away for a rainy day. Well those of you who live in the UK will know over the last couple of weeks we've had quite a few rainy days so I got it out and started. Its a surprisingly enjoyable build, really quite clevererly designed and as usual goes together with Tamiyas usual ruthless efficiency including all the hop ups. Below are a string of photos of the main parts of the build, I had two hitches along the way, one was a that I needed a single male deans plug and all my spare plugs are XT60's. Fortunately @Wez-li helped out. Feel really guilty as the postage was more than the cost of a plug. Many thanks. The other hitch was the brushless motor has a longer can than the stock 370 so I had to raid the spares to find some wider hex's so that the wheels don't rub on the cables. The Pizza body is going to be a labour of love not least as the instructions are only in Japanese!!!. This is where I've got to: When I get a moment I will list all the hop ups that I have added, its quite a few for such a small vehicle!!!
  14. Hello! Still not sure if i should post that, i guess some People might dont like the conversion, but since i converted a TGX to Brushless also, they way for the TGR Project was free All started with some TGX Cars, somewhere i saw the TGR Chassis and liked it, specialy with my most loved Body Shell the TS020 Toyota GT - One which was also hard to get. Since the TGR has only 2 Speed Gear i had to use a TGX Single Speed shaft and Added a Modul 1 Main Gear, shortened the TGX Gear Support, using a TB02 Motor Mount which has the same height as the TGR Bearing Carrier. ofc the Shaft is Shorter then the TGR 2 Speed Shaft so i had to make a New Prop Shaft which is 4mm longer then an original TGR one, the Chassis itself is selfmade since i dont want do Drill the One Original Chassis Plate i got, u cant get another new one at a reasonable price lol ! The Wheel Question was one of the hardest parts, the Original Wheels are Rare and expensive to, so i was searching around, ending in the 1/8 Nitro Race Car Corner, the Front Foam Wheels fits kinda 95% and are dirt cheap, with the Right Rim Type they can be added on the Original 12mm Hex Hubs (just reverse them ) of the TGR with an Custom made Nut to accept the 12mm Hole of the Wheel. fittet with an custom Upper Deck to and some parts from different Brands it finally come together, just need another ESC, the Mamba Monster Max is way to big for it lol It did his First drive out on a Cold Street, totaly fun Regards, Oswald
  15. Hi everyone, This is my first post so please be gentle! I'm building the XV01 and I've bought an 8.5T Tamiya/LRP motor and LRP ESC. I'm a real newbie so I have no idea what I've got myself into as far as gearing, and a whole lot of hurt (according to the hobby guy who doesn't want to know me). Can anybody please help me with the number of pinion, spur, and any other advice you're prepared to give time sharing, when it comes to this set up. I have bought a front one way unit, and about to order the slipper clutch and a few other things that I don't really understand to be honest, but they appear to be upgrades! I also rapidly ordered some 70mm shocks, without being sure whether that will suit the model or not. So if you're not totally disgusted with my lack of knowledge while impulse buying on eBay, I'd appreciate any help turning it into a mean rally car that will make me and the mates laugh even if it is over powered. Thanks for reading :)
  16. Hi All, With the quarantine stretching on I got ambitious with upgrading my son’s Sand Viper. The kit comes with the brushless ready TBLE-02 S. Reading the forums here it sounded like pairing this with 2s lipo, a steel pinion and a 13.5T sensored brushless was a good route to some fun (thank you!). I acquired a Muchmore Fleta ZX v2 13.5T https://www.amainhobbies.com/muchmore-fleta-zx-v2-13.5t-er-spec-brushless-motor-mmrmr-v2zx135er/p693983 After soldering it all together the ECS starts up flashing red/green which indicates it thinks it’s in sensorless mode. Ok here’s the trouble shooting I’ve tried: 1) Attach the old sport tuned brushed motor: works fine. 2) Attached an old sensorless brushless motor: esc starts up in low voltage warning mode 3) Removed the sensor harness and tried running the Muchmore motor: it gave a small shudder and was clearly getting power than stopped and gave the over load protection warning. (This May have been unwise but I was looking for options) 4) Attached an NiMH battery and tried steps 1-3 plus the original setup with the Muchmore, table-02 and the nimh: same results across the board. I attached a picture of the setup and am happy to take more. It could be my solders are bad (they sure are ugly) but they are very solid, I could lift the car with them. There’s no crossover or short on the solder. And step three above seems to indicate the motor is getting power. I’m happy to chase any ideas or suggestions. Thanks in advance!
  17. Hello everybody, I'm kind of a newbie to Tamiya and electric R/C, but 2 months ago I bought an M05 Chassis and upgraded it a bit. A couple of days ago I also bought a TT-02SR Chassis and thought it would be fun to equip it with a brushless motor. I already got a Tamiya Speed controller (TBL02S) with the M-chassis which is compatible with brushed and brushless motor. I bought myself the Carson 11.5T Dragster Pro, which is specially designed for the TBL02S (according the details). I attached all the wires as said in the manual, but it is not working. The LED on the speed controller keeps blinking. When I pull out the sensorcable and try again, it gives a short motorsound, and then imidiately turns off. I hope anyone has an idea of what could be going on here? I would appreciate the help!
  18. Hi all, have spent a lot of time reading here so though it was time to contribute! As a child I had an original grasshopper as my second RC car, can’t recall what the first one was! That’s long gone but I still have the M01 Mini I got as a birthday present. Also have an M02 chassis I plan to build up soon. Both will be on modern esc and radio gear, though I do still have the acoms set from the mini, just appears it no longer works. After building a Plasma Edge 2 for my girlfriend’s son I decided I needed a piece of the action again! So far it’s as follows: TT02B Dual Ridge in pearl white Futaba 3PV & R304SB Radio Futaba S3014 waterproof servo GPM Ballraced steering Full bearings Blue star dish wheels on the way Will add metal gears for the new motor Ive run it once and fancy more power. I plan on going for a hobbywing 3652 5400kv combo which I know/think is way over the top. My thinking here is as I’m still running NIMH I won’t be getting anything like full power from it, plus I can tone it down on the transmitter for normal running but have the option of it being silly fast if I want to get a lipo. As the motor combos are the same price on all power options am I heading in the right direction or am I missing something? edit: believe I am missing something on doing some further reading. Need to decide between 3300, 4000 or 5400kv.
  19. Well I did not think Id be back in the builds section for a very long time, but here we are. Earlier this year, or maybe last year, I tried to make my TB01 into a buggy by using TL01B suspension parts and a few other bits and pieces, only to find out Tamiya made 2 truggy style vehicles based on the TB01 chassis, the Levant and Super Levant. BUT both are XB Builds and do not come in kit form. Anywhere. There are differences between the Super and normal, mainly the Super has a longer wheelbase, and a 8t motor, where as the Levant has a 16t motor. Both are fully brushless out of the box, which is unusual for Tamiya. Fast forward to December 27th 2017. Tamico i find out are having a sale. And in this sale, they have a few Levant Chassis, but only the chassis already built for a silly cheap price. No wheels, no electronics, no tyres, no body Just chassis. So ive bought one, it arrived today, already built, my plan is to... strip it to see what its running, bearing wise, and then fit my own brushless system, amd other the next couple of months source a body, stickers and wheel and tyre set. Ill do a full strip down and rebuild with pics.
  20. Having skulked around taking so much advice and so many tips from these forums, thought it was time to contribute! This will be my second ever Tamiya kit build. My first was a Bigwig re:re a couple of months ago, which was very much by the book. This, a Boomerang re:re, is going to go off piste a bit! Now I've bitten the bullet and put this out there, I'm really hoping I don't make a total hash of it!
  21. Hello all, feeling all nostalgic I have just bought myself a re-re-release Top Force. It's on the way, should be here next week I've been looking around the forum and have gleaned a few bits of useful info so far, some of them bringing back memories of 20 years ago (broken front gearbox covers, stripped pinions, melted together Tamiya plugs etc). I want to build a reasonably quick (but still reliable) solid car to run and have some fun with. Hoping someone could double check what I'm about to buy before I spend on the wrong bits..... 1. Ball races - I understand the 2017 is already ballraced so all good? Not included, ordered. 2. Nylon gear set. Is this the right one? 50529 eBay Link Ordered 3. Gearbox through bolts. On the rear top cover and top left of the rear diff cover. Should I just do them from the outset? Any others to do? M3 screws and nylocs ordered. Pretty sure I have an M3 tap. 4. Front diff cover. I remember replacing this a couple of times after crashing. Should I just get the aluminium one? Keeping standard for now 5. Alloy motor mount. Struggling to find a one piece one - any links please? Otherwise a 3 piece one and some loctite should do yes? Ordered a 3 piece one. Have some permanent loctite 6. Recommended motor & speed controller (I'd like reverse if possible)? Probably brushless to run with 7.2v NiMHs. Quick but not self destructing quick. (I do remember my old car being quick, at times probably too quick, but fun). I do have a an HPI 15T Firebolt can motor that I can put in for now (and an LRP ESC). 7. I've found the RW steel pinions from Modelsport. What size for the motor that you recommend please? And what size for the 15T firebolt if that's a goer? Ordered 17,18,19 I'm in the UK so links that ship here please Thanks a lot, sorry that my opening post is a load of questions!
  22. So I love big monster trucks I dislike Nitro I also am a massive Tamiya fanboy so what better to do than convert a TNX to a big brushless thing i'm not expert a lot of this will be trial and error I have sourced a TNX chassis for less than £40 posted so the first bit of the puzzle is done but I have a bit of a shopping/ todo list It will take me a while as on a budget, first on the agenda is to strip and clean its rusty and stinks of fags! The main aim is to just have a big basher! Shopping list 4068 Brushless motor 2050KV and mod 1 pinions New shocks again will be budget Motor bracket on order spur gear Body Maybe new wheels Going to get it running first make sure it works and does what its supposed to then go from there, exciting times EDIT: after having a good look it also needs counter shaft bits and a new wishbone at the front, going to upgrade both front wishbones to TGM-04 spec, hoping that they still work with the universal joint drive shaft jobbies, decided not to do this at this point future upgrade. I have TGM-03 wishbone replacements EDIT 2: Also gotta work out how to lock the gears in 2nd
  23. Hi, i'm new to RC and i'm looking to get a on-road car to join my local club. long story short i'm currently in the run for a TT-02R. I'm wondering though which engine i should put best in it. If possible i'd like to swap the engine and esc sometimes out with my traxxas slash to go of-road ( and crash :) ). I gave up on my slash some years ago after the engine broke and i replaced it with a slower one, it just wasn't fun anymore. So now i'm looking for a brushless set which hopefully can go into the TT-02 for driving with the club aswell as in the slash for just messing around. I'm just lost a bit with the KV and Turn numbers. The velineon engines can go 70+mph with 10T 3500kv while i saw a 5000KV 9T only doing about half that. i already read that for off-road you need to go high in turns and for on-road low in turns. Is there a golden midway that would make both cars "fast" ( but not wheelie 24/7 fast) ( e.g. my slash currently looks like a snail in the grass) in terms of KV and turns for on-road/off-road driving? i currently have my eyess upon a 12T 3700kv engine though i'm still not sure if that will be able to meet the requirements. Thanks, Wouter
  24. Greetings, I wanted to introduce my Tamiya F103 build, the original build was the Renault Damon Hill edition. The main plan is to make a conversion to F104 with a sick brushless setup and gyro. first setup was as I got it, really old foam tires, silver can with 3000mah nimh. right now it is running with a LRP RUNNER 2 23T, cheap china esc, and a 5000mah LRP bat. All upgrades are visible on the pics, the rear motor mount is from a F103GT. I have a brushless setup coming from hobby king and also the f104 alu dif, front end f104, low profil servo... will keep the topic updated
  25. Tamiya trailmaster 2.4ghz radio and receiver 1/18th scale surpass brushless motor and ESC waterproof Waterproof servo bearings fitted in gearbox. Will add more pictures of electronics if needed Fully working, can supply a 2s lipo but this will need replacing as it is puffed, but does still work. Looking for £70 posted in the U.K or can remove radio for less, or swap for wild dagger/ twin det.
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