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Found 44 results

  1. Having skulked around taking so much advice and so many tips from these forums, thought it was time to contribute! This will be my second ever Tamiya kit build. My first was a Bigwig re:re a couple of months ago, which was very much by the book. This, a Boomerang re:re, is going to go off piste a bit! Now I've bitten the bullet and put this out there, I'm really hoping I don't make a total hash of it!
  2. Shifted this thread over here as I posted in General Discussions as my first post before I knew about how things worked. Also, work on the car escalated and I wanted to keep a note of ongoing upgrades/changes. Hopefully of interest to DT03 runners/buyer. I have an original Thunder Dragon from 1988 which has had a bit of a restomod, but getting that sorted recently led to the purchase of a cheap Racing Fighter from Germany as I've never had a 2WD buggy before. First buggy full build in about 30 years, although the Thunder Dragon has been torn down and rebuilt several times. Really enjoyed it. I had an old Grasshopper2 shell in my bit box from back in the day, and I'd never painted a shell before. I don't like the modern look of buggies, being a child of the 80's I love the older buggies so I decided to have a go and some light body mods to fit it to my DT03. It was already slightly modified around the front shocks to fit on my Thunder Dragon. Here's a couple of trial fits with the primer on, trying to figure out the mountings and proportion. Couldn't resist getting the wheels on to see what it might look like: Figured out the body mods, enlarging the front hole to use the central front mount on the chassis, and adding holes in the haunches for the large l-shaped body mount towers that came with the kit. I ended up going narrower than I could have got away with on the front cuts. I chopped the DT-03 suspension mount in the centre to get the front of the shell on and off. Not bothered about the nth degree of wheel control and can always get the fancy TRF carbon one if I feel the need in future. After a couple of aborted attempts at orange from Tamiya and Halfords, and neither before strong enough for my liking and went for it with neon orange. Stickers are from MCI Racing, with red replaced with black, and yellow replaced with dark grey. Pretty pleased with how it came out. Another modern look I'm not keen on is the super short front overhang. I like the big 80s bull bars, so inspired by AMPRO Engineering on Youtube I knocked up a bull bar bumper in 3D CAD and got it 3D printed from Shapeways. Only cost a tenner! Sets the stance off nicely, I think. I do love the kit black star dish wheels though. As for the car, I loved building it and it seems solid. I've never had brushless before either, so I went for a 13.5R Speed Passion MMM motor from Modelsport who also did my some leads with tamiya plugs, and a steel 17t pinion and a bearing set to start with. The kit came with the CVA dampers with the fixed solid plates on top of the shafts. Initially I was a bit disappointed. I'm certainly no expert and have no plans to race, but it was very understeery and bottomed out a lot. Due to older equipment I have already, I still use ACOMS 27MHz radio and NiMH batteries to keep costs down which I've since learnt are on the heavy side, but they work fine in my Thunder Dragon! So, after going down the rabbit hole of what mods to do where, trying not to spend a fortune on hop ups and learning as I go, this I think is my basics for getting the DT-03 to somewhere near it's potential and also hopefully help some newbies looking at getting their DT-03 running nice in my opinion: 1) Junk the stock tyres. The deep rib fronts that come with the Racing Fighter in particular are useless on hard surfaces and I generally muck about in the street or at the yard at work. With the fiesty motor I started tearing through the rears too, and have ended up with Schumacher Mini Pin Yellows on the stock rims. Works great, and the yellows last longer than the blue counter-intuitively, because the blue is harder it span up too easily on hard surfaces and wore out. On things like the pump track in the pictures, the mini pins are immense. 2) Connected to 1 - Be honest about where you drive. Having burnt through cool looking buggy tyres I now have a second set of wheels (Schumacher Flexlite read, Tamiya Dish Front both in black) with Schumacher RT1s and medium inserts for tarmac. 3) Suspension - I'm using the DF03 (not a typo, the 4WD car) setting springs, hard rear, softest front. Both are firmer than the kit springs. The DT-03 settings springs were right out because the colours would have looked rubbish if I'd needed the red ones. Yes, I am enough of a tart for that. Plus, couldn't see the point of a softer set of springs if the kit springs were in the middle. I saw the DF03 springs suggested on a thread on here I think. Great call. I got the TRF 54043 piston rods for the rear shock and standard CVA mini shock shafts 50601 for the front and used the kit sprues and some e-clips to convert the dampers to proper pistons. After some experimentation I'm running single hole pistons with the kit Soft Tamiya 400 CST oil 4) I got the anti roll bars, but have ended up not using them. Now I have the suspension firm enough to hold the car up it handles fine without the anti roll bars. IMHO. 5) I used the leftover ball studs from the unused roll bars to replace as many of the step screws in the damper mounts as possible. Much nicer and less rattly I got a bag of ball connectors (50591) to finish the job off, although the fronts need a bit of filing to get them to fit the wishbones. 6) Turnbuckles - Don't be a cheapskate like me and pick up a cheap DT02 set, as the steering arms don't fit! These do seen good for getting the grip up though. 2-3 neg both ends. 7) Driveshafts - I had no issues with the toughness of the plastic driveshafts, but I couldn't believe how much they restrict suspension movement. I didn't want to spend out on Universals as I'm not racing. I ended up taking a leaf out of the Sand Viper book and went to the metal driveshaft and cups. Only cost about a tenner for the parts, and the car stands up at the rear about another 10mm! They look better too, IMHO. Parts are: Shafts - Tamiya 9805551 Outdrives - Tamiya 9804237 Hub end cups - Tamiya 50823 8) Geared diff with the kit seems fine. I stuffed it with grease as advised somewhere on the internet and does fine for me. 9) Kimborough servo saver was a fiver well spent. Much more crisp steering. 10) Not sure if the Hop Up servo mount was £18 well spent, but it looks pretty and does look into the chassis and servo much more firmly. I'm open on this one as it's pretty expensive. Hope you like it, and hope that helps anyone looking at getting a DT-03. Cheers!
  3. Well I did not think Id be back in the builds section for a very long time, but here we are. Earlier this year, or maybe last year, I tried to make my TB01 into a buggy by using TL01B suspension parts and a few other bits and pieces, only to find out Tamiya made 2 truggy style vehicles based on the TB01 chassis, the Levant and Super Levant. BUT both are XB Builds and do not come in kit form. Anywhere. There are differences between the Super and normal, mainly the Super has a longer wheelbase, and a 8t motor, where as the Levant has a 16t motor. Both are fully brushless out of the box, which is unusual for Tamiya. Fast forward to December 27th 2017. Tamico i find out are having a sale. And in this sale, they have a few Levant Chassis, but only the chassis already built for a silly cheap price. No wheels, no electronics, no tyres, no body Just chassis. So ive bought one, it arrived today, already built, my plan is to... strip it to see what its running, bearing wise, and then fit my own brushless system, amd other the next couple of months source a body, stickers and wheel and tyre set. Ill do a full strip down and rebuild with pics.
  4. Hello all, feeling all nostalgic I have just bought myself a re-re-release Top Force. It's on the way, should be here next week I've been looking around the forum and have gleaned a few bits of useful info so far, some of them bringing back memories of 20 years ago (broken front gearbox covers, stripped pinions, melted together Tamiya plugs etc). I want to build a reasonably quick (but still reliable) solid car to run and have some fun with. Hoping someone could double check what I'm about to buy before I spend on the wrong bits..... 1. Ball races - I understand the 2017 is already ballraced so all good? Not included, ordered. 2. Nylon gear set. Is this the right one? 50529 eBay Link Ordered 3. Gearbox through bolts. On the rear top cover and top left of the rear diff cover. Should I just do them from the outset? Any others to do? M3 screws and nylocs ordered. Pretty sure I have an M3 tap. 4. Front diff cover. I remember replacing this a couple of times after crashing. Should I just get the aluminium one? Keeping standard for now 5. Alloy motor mount. Struggling to find a one piece one - any links please? Otherwise a 3 piece one and some loctite should do yes? Ordered a 3 piece one. Have some permanent loctite 6. Recommended motor & speed controller (I'd like reverse if possible)? Probably brushless to run with 7.2v NiMHs. Quick but not self destructing quick. (I do remember my old car being quick, at times probably too quick, but fun). I do have a an HPI 15T Firebolt can motor that I can put in for now (and an LRP ESC). 7. I've found the RW steel pinions from Modelsport. What size for the motor that you recommend please? And what size for the 15T firebolt if that's a goer? Ordered 17,18,19 I'm in the UK so links that ship here please Thanks a lot, sorry that my opening post is a load of questions!
  5. So I love big monster trucks I dislike Nitro I also am a massive Tamiya fanboy so what better to do than convert a TNX to a big brushless thing i'm not expert a lot of this will be trial and error I have sourced a TNX chassis for less than £40 posted so the first bit of the puzzle is done but I have a bit of a shopping/ todo list It will take me a while as on a budget, first on the agenda is to strip and clean its rusty and stinks of fags! The main aim is to just have a big basher! Shopping list 4068 Brushless motor 2050KV and mod 1 pinions New shocks again will be budget Motor bracket on order spur gear Body Maybe new wheels Going to get it running first make sure it works and does what its supposed to then go from there, exciting times EDIT: after having a good look it also needs counter shaft bits and a new wishbone at the front, going to upgrade both front wishbones to TGM-04 spec, hoping that they still work with the universal joint drive shaft jobbies, decided not to do this at this point future upgrade. I have TGM-03 wishbone replacements EDIT 2: Also gotta work out how to lock the gears in 2nd
  6. Hi, i'm new to RC and i'm looking to get a on-road car to join my local club. long story short i'm currently in the run for a TT-02R. I'm wondering though which engine i should put best in it. If possible i'd like to swap the engine and esc sometimes out with my traxxas slash to go of-road ( and crash :) ). I gave up on my slash some years ago after the engine broke and i replaced it with a slower one, it just wasn't fun anymore. So now i'm looking for a brushless set which hopefully can go into the TT-02 for driving with the club aswell as in the slash for just messing around. I'm just lost a bit with the KV and Turn numbers. The velineon engines can go 70+mph with 10T 3500kv while i saw a 5000KV 9T only doing about half that. i already read that for off-road you need to go high in turns and for on-road low in turns. Is there a golden midway that would make both cars "fast" ( but not wheelie 24/7 fast) ( e.g. my slash currently looks like a snail in the grass) in terms of KV and turns for on-road/off-road driving? i currently have my eyess upon a 12T 3700kv engine though i'm still not sure if that will be able to meet the requirements. Thanks, Wouter
  7. Greetings, I wanted to introduce my Tamiya F103 build, the original build was the Renault Damon Hill edition. The main plan is to make a conversion to F104 with a sick brushless setup and gyro. first setup was as I got it, really old foam tires, silver can with 3000mah nimh. right now it is running with a LRP RUNNER 2 23T, cheap china esc, and a 5000mah LRP bat. All upgrades are visible on the pics, the rear motor mount is from a F103GT. I have a brushless setup coming from hobby king and also the f104 alu dif, front end f104, low profil servo... will keep the topic updated
  8. Tamiya trailmaster 2.4ghz radio and receiver 1/18th scale surpass brushless motor and ESC waterproof Waterproof servo bearings fitted in gearbox. Will add more pictures of electronics if needed Fully working, can supply a 2s lipo but this will need replacing as it is puffed, but does still work. Looking for £70 posted in the U.K or can remove radio for less, or swap for wild dagger/ twin det.
  9. Hey Guys My first posting here. So.. many years ago in a galaxy far far away when i was a young lad i received a brand new Boomerang as a B'day present already made by my Dads mate, much fun had! entered in Sunday meets (just 4 fun racin) and alot of after school bashing with me mate Cotsell. 30 years on after looking for gadgets to spend some hard earned cash on discovered that Tamiya were still going, after a second! contemplating decided got to get one. Having never before built a Tamiya or any other rc vehicle I were looking forward and hoping to be challenged by the build, Overall Enjoyed putting together found instructions very informative and build quite easy, did over a week for an hour or so each evening, the most daunting part of the project was the body cutting, experimented on the chassis cover with scissors, went ok but not perfect, The body however i wanted it to be perfection. So did some research from mainly you guys here on Tamiyaclub and was suprised that many of you mentioned scoring with a craft knife and bending was key, this works superbly and is actually quite therapeutic creating the bodywork this way (very light scoring and very sharp thin blade required). PLAYTIME First run.. 3000mah nimh battery, stock tble 2esc and silver Mahbuchi motor.(not recorded) Run 2.. hpi firebolt 15t motor same battery and esc but with steel 17pinion on motor. 26mph??? ..... according to iphone 4s app attached inside body. O.k to be honest i was sceptical about the old iphone 4s gps reading and app, so have now changed to samsung s6 with very good and tested app. Today , I received direct from Hong Kong Ezrun 9t brushless motor and esc combo (£27.99) fitted, works well and leaves skidmarks all over laminated flooring in house 😀... will inform if any requests are taken on next run.. Any guesses ?
  10. Anyone heard of or using GoolRC? This just popped up on my 'you might like' thingy on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361863642809?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Looks like roughly 10.5t brushless with ESC for £33!! Tempted to get one to bosh in my Thunder Dragon.
  11. Hey guys - Markbt73 has infected me a bit with enjoying the performance of the Novak Edge/Ballistic setup I now have in my DF-02 runner. Being a relative n00b to brushless I have no intrinsic sense as to whether I'd see similar performance by picking up one of Tamiya's entry-level BL motors and using it with a TBLE-02S I have just sitting NIP in a bin. To be honest I've been pretty underwhelmed by Tamiya's ESC's other than the TEU-101BK and TEU-302BK. All the others have hard-wired limited reverse capability and I can't seem to see any performance improvement between them (am I missing something?). Lucky for me, people think that the 101BK is 'less good' than the 102-105BK, so I regularly buy them whenever I can for anything under $20 NIP. So - basically, I'm skeptical that the TBLE-02S is even worth bothering with brushed or brushless. Except if I go and buy a $60-70 Tamiya BL motor (I'd only go for a matching motor - I like things that match) then I'd be wasting a lot of $ and still seeing lackluster performance. BUT maybe I'm wrong...! Has anyone tried one of these combos and have good things to say about it? Particularly relative to other BL systems you've used?
  12. Spent a very enjoyable 3 months building and developing the setup on my DT03 but this car being brushless and pretty quick lead to the Thunder Dragon feeling a bit unloved. When a cheap Chinese hobbywing 120a esc copy popped up on eBay for £11 I figured it was cheap enough that I had pretty much nothing to lose. Although proper vintage (I have had the car since 1989. Got it for my 13th birthday) it's always been a runner and it's had quite a few improvements and modernisation already so brushless seemed like a good step. I had an Mtroniks rv20 esc and 21t x 2 brushed setup before which was great when it was replacing the MSC and silver can but even the tble-02 in my DT03 is much easier to handle and more responsive to braking and neutral throttle programming. I had also found the Thunder Dragon just a bit dull to drive because with 4WD and modern 2.2" wheels and tyres it was easily able to handle 21t and was just a bit easy to drive. Contrast to constantly chasing the setup on my DT03 and how much better it was making me drive because I couldn't just open the throttle and hold it there like on the TD it was time to pep up the old timer and make it a bit more of a handful!! I picked a Speed Passion 10.5t 3800kV motor on eBay but with this esc have options for lower. Firstly had to rearrange the tub. The rv20 is tiny and just slid in the vacant MSC servo slot on its side. The new esc complete with fan needed to sit on the MSC plate but that attachment bosses needed filing off first. Brushed setup stripped out MSC mounting plate. One boss has been removed previously but I can't remember why! The boss nearest the camera needs to come off to make a flat mount space for the esc And it's gone The other thing I figured out to tidy up the packaging a little was my ACOMS Rx slots into the old servo slot vacated by the previous esc, but the old servo bosses needed filing off. This gives the mounting plate more support and hold the Rx nice and snug Before After Rx moved and plate reinstalled This was my first effort at soldering leads. The removable plugs on the speed passion motor made this a breeze. My big problem came because the cheapness of my esc played out when the battery leads just fell off in my hand from a nice random crimp/nearly cut through section on the leads about 4cm from the esc. I desoldered the connections and removed the stubs and went about soldering the battery leads with the plug back on. This was a complete pain and such a fight! Soldering to esc terminals is hard! Anyway, finally just about got it sorted. I was worried about mucking it up so didn't trim the wires before soldering so not the neatest installation but a tie wrap to the body post sorts that. Waiting on some more double sided sticky pads from Modelsport to complete the mounting but a tie wrap got me up and running. The power switching isn't compatible with the under chassis slot so I stuck it on top of the tube where the resistor used to be so I can reach through the hole in the body to get it. I have the Deans convertor because I run Nimh batteries and all my stuff is tamiya plug. If someone can persuade me that soldering deans plugs is as easy as my motor connections were I might convert all my stuff to Deans. Took it for a run on gravel and in the woods and played with the program card (hobbywing card works). 14t pinion and it's quick and fun and I now need to sort the dampers and handling out because it's pretty feisty. Just what I wanted. Cheers
  13. Very new to RC and have just almost completed my first build of a Black Dark Impact DF-03. I was very lucky and got to visit Tokyo and specifically a fantastic store called RC Champ/RC Adviser and pick up a complete RC setup. I have some questions about installing a Brushless Motor to replace the 540 stock motor. My problem is that I am trying to install a Yokomo BL-SP4 Brushless Motor but it is not the same length as the stock 540. By disassembling the rear of the chassis I was able to get the Yokomo fitted but the solder mount for the three wires is an extremely tight fit and I had to bend the wires back to get them leading the correct direction and out of the motor mount to reach my ESC. Secondly, I just am too stupid to understand how to Setup the ESC correctly. I hold down the SET button but don't understand how long I am supposed to wait for the LED Lights to change when setting Neutral, Forward, and Brake. The Yokomo manual is very poorly written. Reading the setup part of the BL-SP4 manual can anyone help me out? Setting up an ESC should be very simple but not for a beginner with no experience, BL-SP4 manual
  14. Just getting back into the scene after years away. In the past I ran nitro, now I'm going electric. Finally figuring out this lipo and brushless stuff, but I'm at decision point. Awaiting my new TT02 White edition kit in the mail, and I need to order a motor/esc combo but I have no idea where to even begin with regards to what I need. Here's what I know: 1) It has to be compatible with the 2s lipos I already have. (One 4000mah and one 6500mah) 2)I need both motor and esc so a combo makes sense. 3) Want to keep price around $100 or less. This article has a ton of options but I don't know what the differences are. https://www.onkidstoys.com/top-21-best-esc-motor-combos/ I'm going to be racing at a local track doing rally. The guys who go there suggested this combo: https://www.hobbytown.com/xerun-justock-zero-spec-sensored-brushless-esc-motor-combo-13.5t-by-hobbywing-hwa38020401/p453305 This is one I keep seeing advertised: Http://www.horizonhobby.com/KXSS0500?utm_medium=display&utm_source=criteo&utm_campaign=productremarketing&utm_content=KXSS0500&CA_6C15C=320011980000459400 Happy to take suggestions. Don't need the world's fastest motor but I'd like to be competitive. Thanks!
  15. We've been doing a lot of on road parking lot racing this past summer. A bit of a change from our normal trail runs and bash sessions. Forgot how much fun it was to go fast! Always wanted to do an on-road buggy - wider stance, bigger tires, they can handle a lot more power than a touring car in my humble opinion. I've got a 5700kv setup here that I tried to run in my XV01 and it was just too much for me. So I started looking for a cheapish buggy to do a conversion just so I could put this motor in it. After doing some digging, I picked up a TT02B MS. I know there are better buggies out there, but I have a TT02 touring car and it's nice being able to mix and match hop-ups between the two. The MS is well equipped right out of the box and frankly, I just like the TT chassis! It's set up with a 15t brushed for now just to sort out the suspension and trims. No hop ups installed yet, the MS is for sure the way to go as it comes pretty loaded right out of the box. Tires are from an older TL01B kit that I clipped off the spikes and sanded down into slicks. The rear has a custom shock tower that lowers the wing an inch and allows me to run Tamiya'a mini CVA's at 55mm all around. Front is lowered with the same 55mm shocks and threw some universals in there as well. (Ok, I guess I did add 1 hopup!) Ovrerall stance is about the same ride height as a touring car. With the wing lowered, it's pretty sleek looking. I didn't care for the body to be honest and was looking for another but once I got it all painted and set on the chassis, it grew on me. Defintely looks the part for a speed machine Fun little build, can't wait to get it and and stretch its legs...Since it is almost winter here, updates will be forthcoming as soon as the weather cooperates.
  16. This didn't really warrant putting in the build thread as it's too small a mod, but I thought I would share it Made this: To fit in my thundershot to mount the ESC on for a brushless system. I already had a small piece of carbon fibre mounted in it to act as a mount plate where the MSC used to be, but the speedo was too tall to fit on there, and the 2.4GHz Rx aerial was too short to reach the aerial tube. So I fitted the aluminium plate in, I used a thick plate so I could recess the screws used to attach the support pillars, and drilled 2 holes in the bottom of the chassis (In the recessed portions to protect the screws) and was then able to fit the ESC neatly onto the plate I'd made, the ESC is lower than on the carbon plate, and leaves plenty of clearance between the bodyshell and the ESC fan for airflow. The ESC is an HobbyWing EzRun 80 amp unit, and the motor is an EzRun 2 pole 4000Kv motor.
  17. Here we go again, Some of you may remember my brushless qd Monster beetle?, there is a thread somewhere,... I missed that little car, but they are getting expensive now. I won a qd thunder dragon by accident and the project has started. Done bearings in the 2speed gearbox, ordered more bearings for the front wheels. Got a steering servo squeezed in there, ordered brushless motor. Need some help with tyres,.. need something with roughly 63mm outer diameter, I am able to use 12mm hex wheels if needed, (the mad bull hex fits the splines on the qd) so just looking for ideas.
  18. Hi everyone! I built my Neo Scorcher and have been loving it! I've done a few upgrades so far: Bearings Alloy steering Full turnbuckles Steel gearbox joints and steel universal shafts Alloy center shaft and steel joints Sport Tuned Motor Alloy motor mount (not installed yet) Tamiya large dish wheels (2 sets) 1 with Pro line Dirt Hawgs, 1 with Tamiya Dual Block I may also upgrade shocks soon. My question is... I'd like to go brushless or at least try it out. I'm returning to the hobby after many years so I'm new to brushless motors. I'd like something that can run well with the TBLE-02s speed control included in the kit. I'm running nimh packs. 2000 mah and 3000 mah. Do I need a sensored motor or can I use either sensored or sensorless? I'd like a jump in speed but I don't want to loose too much torque. I mostly just bash but occasionally run on an old dirt track. Oh and I'd also like something moderately priced. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts and suggestions! Thanks!
  19. Selling up my collection over the next few months,please do keep an eye open for some very rare and sought after Tamiya items. Feel free to PM me any questions. Thanks for looking. Very best of luck. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/anchordriver/m.html?item=182155358527&hash=item2a694e313f%3Ag%3AauQAAOSw3R1XTta5&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
  20. Hi all, thought I'd share a recent beach run with the Lunchbox. With some mods the Lunchbox can handle quite well: And some at regular speed:
  21. Hloo! This post contains my experience/thoughts on: *Brushless 10.5 motor in a CC-01 ...hehehe *Soft spots on the CC-01... what have broken during my bashing... oops *Mud, puddles, grass and Mud flaps (home made) - what difference does it make? ------------- So, I've been using my CC-01 Pajero Rally Sport to play garden rally. A rally car isn't a crawler, so when my hobby store had a sale i naturally purchased a 10.5T brushless(the limit of the TBLE-02s i think) for laughs. And boy, did and do i laugh! Hehe, i can rarely push the pedal to teh metal so to speak, but it actually gives me more satisfaction to hold back a little and push the limits in every corner than just apply full throttle all the time. It takes some skill to maneuver an overpowered beast And of course it sometimes results in death defying spins, rolls, flips and crashes... but my inner kid likes that now and then. This sturdy little thing can take it... most of the time... Since i started my rally career i have broken some parts... but very few.... and this was actually before the 10.5, it was with the stock motor.The first thing to go was the ... uhm.. Skid-plate? i ran full speed into a concrete stone. After two CA-gluing sessions without success, i managed to repair with cable ties so i could play while i waited for the aluminum spare. I also broke the "knuckle arms" (?) where i had to drill new holes for the steering linkage, easy fix. For the long run i got some aluminum spares. I mean, who doesn't like to buy and upgrade stuff? I waterprotected my esc with liquid tape (golly, that was some sticky messy mess, and not really easy to do if you ask me) and got me a water-protected servo and protected my receiver in a removable two-barrier-box super invention. Mud and puddles here i come! Fun fun fun! But i was a bit disappointed by all the muck I had to clean inside afterwards, ....so I made some mud flaps from an inside rubber tube from a car tire (?). The mess was significantly less, but still required some cleaning . Might have to refine... Although most people seem to be using their cc-01 as crawlers or alike... i wholeheartedly recommend it as a full speed insanity rally machine... All in all, the CC-01 is a lovely car to drive like a maniac. And last.. I am not sure it comes through in the text above, but i really really really like the CC-01. It gives great pleasure to build, tinker with and customize - "how can i improve this?". And i just had to get another one, a FJ Cruiser in which i installed lights and stock motor, my kids love to drive it. Who knows, i might even get a third to crawl with UPDATE! So, the driveshaft could not handle the 10,5t... It went to pieces in the obvious places. But the rest is still going strong hehe...
  22. So, the 6s compatible Castle Creations Mamba Monster ESC in my newly-acquired, used E-maxx Brushless fried itself on its first outing. I'm thinking possibly a ripple current caused by using a pair of 2s 4200mAh LiPos that couldn't handle the current draw has caused the capacitors to fail. I must admit I didn't realise this was a possibility until after I'd blown the speedo and searched online for a possible cause. So, I now need to replace the speedo and get hold of some better batteries before I end up with yet another useless RC truck I've found a used example of the same speedo for £90. I was quite happy with the performance of the Mamba Monster on 4s but that seems like a lot of wedge for a used speedo, especially as it'll have no warranty if I fry it again. (It looks like some Mamba Monster speedos had a habit of frying themselves and were replaced under warranty). The current model (Mamba Monster Max) retails for £175. That's a lot of cash for someone who isn't supposed to be spending money on toys. I've got a baby due in just over a month! It's especially a lot of cash if I also need to fund two new 2s packs. HobbyKing list a Turnigy 1:8 ESC: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-160a-1-8th-scale-sensorless-esc-w-fan.html It'll only go to 4s, but then I was unlikely to run the Maxx on 6s anyway as I don't have any 3s packs. I already have a Turnigy programming box for my 1:10 TrackStar Turbo ESCs but I don't know if it will work on the 1:8 ESC. At less than £50, it seems like a bargain. I love the TrackStar series and use them in my HotShot and my CS drift car. HobbyKing also list their own 1:8 ESC: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingr-tm-x-car-beast-series-esc-1-8-scale-150a.html £60 and it'll run up to 6s. I'm not sure if either of these will give the same performance as the Mamba Monster; part of me is reluctant to spend any money if I'm going to end up with a less good truck. And so onto batteries - I'll want hardcase LiPos of at least 5000mAh with at least 30C rating. I've used Turnigy NanoTech batteries for a while without any issues but it was a pair of 4200mAh NanoTech stick packs that were in the truck when the speedo smoked itself. I guess it's worth spending on good quality packs if it'll protect my investment in a good quality speedo. Any advice gratefully received
  23. Having a wee clearout of some items I no longer use. Prices are set with UK postage included, worldwide postage at extra cost. First up is my Speed Passion Reventon R 5.5R Brushless system. I used this in my DB01R for racing (albeit without the motor) and it never once put a foot wrong. Comes with what you see plus the program box (not in the picture) which can adjust all kinds of different, punch, brake, lipo cutoff settings etc. Includes box and all manuals and setting sheet. Motor wires are unsoldered but can be soldered if needed. The motor outer case has 2 marks (see pics) from when it was lightly used in an open bottomed chassis, but these do not affect the performance at all. Overall its a great brushless system and very powerful with the motor rated at 7000KV. Bargain at £44 posted !!! ---------------------- Next up we have my race motor I used in my DB01R along with the Reventon R ESC. Its a Vampire Racing AB+ Motor 5.5T. Again a fantastic motor and very powerful with adjustable endbell timing. Motor is in great condition with only a few small marks on it from the usual use. Solder tabs are in perfect condition and ready to solder to your ESC. Another Bargain at £22 !!! -------------------- And lastly we have a Tamiya 1/10 Loctite Zexel GT-R R34 Bodyset. Its brand new painted (not by myself) and never ran. Decals are a decent quality but are showing the usual signs of lifting here and there. No splits, cracks or any exterior marks at all apart from the aged decals around the front half of the body. These are really hard to come by now. £23 posted !!!! Any questions feel free to ask. Thanks James
  24. I though i'd share with you my printed wheel arches curently on Shapeways. I've sold a few sets now, and people are really happy with them. There is also my brushless fitting kit, of which i have sold a lot now. If you look under my 'creations' tab, you will also see my dashboard project that is near completion. I have two versions, one with metal detailing around the dials, one with plastic. The metal is more expensive, and a bit chunkier. The shapeways 'stainless steel' metal colour is not as chrome like as i'd hoped. I'm starting to think the plastic parts painted silver will be better - what do you think? https://www.shapeways.com/designer/scorched_parts/creations
  25. Hi there Firstly apologies for asking a question which has probably been asked loads of times but after having read posts, reviews and watched stuff on eBay I am still at a bit of a loss. I have a 25+ year old monster beetle and lunchbox which I have got back in running order for my son with the addition of a couple of new ESCs tble02s's to replace the old mechanical ones and a couple of new batteries (3300 nimh) He has got good use of the cars over the last year but the motors which are also 25+ years old (an old stock silver can and a sport tuned) are running a bit hot now and are a bit temperamental. To make things a bit safer for him to use them on his own and prolong the battery life/ run time a bit I was looking to go brushless on the cars but I don't want anything too insane as I will only spend more time fixing them than he does running them, although to be fair I do enjoy tinkering with them. My question therefore is what do you recommend, I would like something as fast as a sport tuned or a little faster but don't know whether I am better going for one of the tamiya motors since I already have the ESCs or go with one of the cheaper motor ESC combos such as the leopard 3930kv or similar. With the non tamiya motors is there anything you need to look out for, do they fit the same to the motor mounts on the cars or do you need adapters etc? Do the pin ions fit? Lastly is there a way of taming the motors down a bit so that initially they are a bit slower for my son but as he progresses I can dial the up a bit. Is this possible via the programming card? Is this what the motor timing option is on the set up? Thanks for your patience Mark
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