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Found 68 results

  1. Having cut my 40-something year old teeth on Bigwig and Boomerang re-res last year, I decided it was time to try something a bit more complicated and 'modern'. I went for a DF03 Dark Impact, and bought the kit last August and spent the following months reading up on previous builds, known weak spots and tracking down the necessary (and some totally unnecessary!!) Hop Ups. Having finally sorted out a hardened steel main gear for the slipper shaft, and suddenly having a lot of extra spare time, I decided to get going. The full list of hop-ups I managed to track down is: Square RC SDI-27R Hardened Steel Rear Differential Joint Tamiya 53925 Slipper Clutch with RW Racing Hardened Steel Main Gear Pinion 3mm Ceramic Silicon Nitride Differential Bearing Balls Tamiya 53922 05 Module Pinion Gears (23T / 25T) Tamiya 53923 05 Module Pinion Gears (27T / 29T) 4x 850zz Ball Raced Bearings Tamiya 53931 Centre One Way Set Tamiya 53953 Front One Way Set Tamiya 53924 Heat Sink Bar Set Tamiya 53948 Aluminium One-Piece Propeller Cup Joint (x2) 3 Racing DF03-05/LB Aluminium Propeller Shaft Square TC SDI-3 Graphite Front Damper Tower 3 Racing DF03-06/WO Rear Damper Tower Xtra Speed XS-OM27001 Front Damper Set Xtra Speed XS-OM227002 Rear Damper Set 3 Racing DF03-22/LB Rear Suspension Stiffener Square RC SDI-17 Steering Crank Tamiya 53941 Aluminium Steering Turnbuckle Tamiya 53940 Hard Turnbuckle Set Tamiya 51000 Hi-torque servo saver Tamiya 54121 Aluminium horn for hi- torque servo saver Tamiya 53791 Universal Shafts (x2) Yeah Racing DF03-006BU Aluminium Front Knuckle Arm Square RC SDI-36 Aluminium Front C-Hub Square Racing SDI-42 Rear Hub T-Bone Racing 56004 DF03 Front Bumper T-Bone Racing 56002 DF03 Rear Bumper Tamiya 53949 Aluminium Battery Stopper Pin Yeah Racing DF03-021BU Aluminium Battery Holder Tamiya 53984 Buggy Rear Wing Tamiya 53569 Aluminium Clamp Wheel Hub Tamiya 53161 Anodized 4mm Lock Nuts (Gold) Core RC CR062 Small Body Clips (Gold) Hobbywing Quicrun 10BL120 ESC Hobbywing Quicrun 3650 Sensored Motor 8.5T Lots of new things to learn with this build...changing gears on shafts (already done!), soldering, building and breaking in ball diffs. Going to take my time and try and avoid too many hiccups.
  2. Which do you prefer and why? For me I use brushless on almost all projects except low-cost projects. Brushless motors are a huge upgrade in terms of power, efficiency, and lower maintenance. I remember the first time I used a low-turn brushless motor several years back I was amazed by the power. And I've been hooked ever since. Wheelies at 30mph. Breaking tires loose at 50mph. Brushed motors just don't come close. Brushless: Almost all projects. Brushed: Low cost projects.
  3. Hi All, I have just received a Lunch Box and should receive ReRe Egress next week for lockdown projects. Could I please get some friendly advice on the below and experiences if any? I am slightly concerned that these kits may suffer if too much power is put through them. I am used to running 2S offroad AE 6.2 & 74.1 mod class buggies @ 10.5 and 8.5t, but I don't 100% understand why you can't run that spec in a Tamiya Under the advice of some friends I have narrowed down 2 systems but not sure which one should go in which car. Both RC's will be for gentle bashing only on smooth surfaces (especially the Egress) and run on 2s Lipo power. At hand I have (A) Hobbywing XeRun 120A ESC + 17.5 brushless Surpass motor And a friend suggested that I get a simple (easy to get in my country during lockdown): (B) Hobbywing Quicrun WP-1060 + 23T Tamiya RZ motor. [brushed system] I had a black edition LBox a few years ago and ran it stock, and the speed was a little light for me so I'd be keen on getting it a little speedier. Hope you can shed some thoughts on above suitability for each of my builds. I have to admit from a aesthetic point of view, option (B) would look nicer in the Egress with less wires to manage, plus a genuine Tamiya motor too. It would make more sense for the Egress to be the faster of the two?
  4. Spent a very enjoyable 3 months building and developing the setup on my DT03 but this car being brushless and pretty quick lead to the Thunder Dragon feeling a bit unloved. When a cheap Chinese hobbywing 120a esc copy popped up on eBay for £11 I figured it was cheap enough that I had pretty much nothing to lose. Although proper vintage (I have had the car since 1989. Got it for my 13th birthday) it's always been a runner and it's had quite a few improvements and modernisation already so brushless seemed like a good step. I had an Mtroniks rv20 esc and 21t x 2 brushed setup before which was great when it was replacing the MSC and silver can but even the tble-02 in my DT03 is much easier to handle and more responsive to braking and neutral throttle programming. I had also found the Thunder Dragon just a bit dull to drive because with 4WD and modern 2.2" wheels and tyres it was easily able to handle 21t and was just a bit easy to drive. Contrast to constantly chasing the setup on my DT03 and how much better it was making me drive because I couldn't just open the throttle and hold it there like on the TD it was time to pep up the old timer and make it a bit more of a handful!! I picked a Speed Passion 10.5t 3800kV motor on eBay but with this esc have options for lower. Firstly had to rearrange the tub. The rv20 is tiny and just slid in the vacant MSC servo slot on its side. The new esc complete with fan needed to sit on the MSC plate but that attachment bosses needed filing off first. Brushed setup stripped out MSC mounting plate. One boss has been removed previously but I can't remember why! The boss nearest the camera needs to come off to make a flat mount space for the esc And it's gone The other thing I figured out to tidy up the packaging a little was my ACOMS Rx slots into the old servo slot vacated by the previous esc, but the old servo bosses needed filing off. This gives the mounting plate more support and hold the Rx nice and snug Before After Rx moved and plate reinstalled This was my first effort at soldering leads. The removable plugs on the speed passion motor made this a breeze. My big problem came because the cheapness of my esc played out when the battery leads just fell off in my hand from a nice random crimp/nearly cut through section on the leads about 4cm from the esc. I desoldered the connections and removed the stubs and went about soldering the battery leads with the plug back on. This was a complete pain and such a fight! Soldering to esc terminals is hard! Anyway, finally just about got it sorted. I was worried about mucking it up so didn't trim the wires before soldering so not the neatest installation but a tie wrap to the body post sorts that. Waiting on some more double sided sticky pads from Modelsport to complete the mounting but a tie wrap got me up and running. The power switching isn't compatible with the under chassis slot so I stuck it on top of the tube where the resistor used to be so I can reach through the hole in the body to get it. I have the Deans convertor because I run Nimh batteries and all my stuff is tamiya plug. If someone can persuade me that soldering deans plugs is as easy as my motor connections were I might convert all my stuff to Deans. Took it for a run on gravel and in the woods and played with the program card (hobbywing card works). 14t pinion and it's quick and fun and I now need to sort the dampers and handling out because it's pretty feisty. Just what I wanted. Cheers
  5. Shifted this thread over here as I posted in General Discussions as my first post before I knew about how things worked. Also, work on the car escalated and I wanted to keep a note of ongoing upgrades/changes. Hopefully of interest to DT03 runners/buyer. I have an original Thunder Dragon from 1988 which has had a bit of a restomod, but getting that sorted recently led to the purchase of a cheap Racing Fighter from Germany as I've never had a 2WD buggy before. First buggy full build in about 30 years, although the Thunder Dragon has been torn down and rebuilt several times. Really enjoyed it. I had an old Grasshopper2 shell in my bit box from back in the day, and I'd never painted a shell before. I don't like the modern look of buggies, being a child of the 80's I love the older buggies so I decided to have a go and some light body mods to fit it to my DT03. It was already slightly modified around the front shocks to fit on my Thunder Dragon. Here's a couple of trial fits with the primer on, trying to figure out the mountings and proportion. Couldn't resist getting the wheels on to see what it might look like: Figured out the body mods, enlarging the front hole to use the central front mount on the chassis, and adding holes in the haunches for the large l-shaped body mount towers that came with the kit. I ended up going narrower than I could have got away with on the front cuts. I chopped the DT-03 suspension mount in the centre to get the front of the shell on and off. Not bothered about the nth degree of wheel control and can always get the fancy TRF carbon one if I feel the need in future. After a couple of aborted attempts at orange from Tamiya and Halfords, and neither before strong enough for my liking and went for it with neon orange. Stickers are from MCI Racing, with red replaced with black, and yellow replaced with dark grey. Pretty pleased with how it came out. Another modern look I'm not keen on is the super short front overhang. I like the big 80s bull bars, so inspired by AMPRO Engineering on Youtube I knocked up a bull bar bumper in 3D CAD and got it 3D printed from Shapeways. Only cost a tenner! Sets the stance off nicely, I think. I do love the kit black star dish wheels though. As for the car, I loved building it and it seems solid. I've never had brushless before either, so I went for a 13.5R Speed Passion MMM motor from Modelsport who also did my some leads with tamiya plugs, and a steel 17t pinion and a bearing set to start with. The kit came with the CVA dampers with the fixed solid plates on top of the shafts. Initially I was a bit disappointed. I'm certainly no expert and have no plans to race, but it was very understeery and bottomed out a lot. Due to older equipment I have already, I still use ACOMS 27MHz radio and NiMH batteries to keep costs down which I've since learnt are on the heavy side, but they work fine in my Thunder Dragon! So, after going down the rabbit hole of what mods to do where, trying not to spend a fortune on hop ups and learning as I go, this I think is my basics for getting the DT-03 to somewhere near it's potential and also hopefully help some newbies looking at getting their DT-03 running nice in my opinion: 1) Junk the stock tyres. The deep rib fronts that come with the Racing Fighter in particular are useless on hard surfaces and I generally muck about in the street or at the yard at work. With the fiesty motor I started tearing through the rears too, and have ended up with Schumacher Mini Pin Yellows on the stock rims. Works great, and the yellows last longer than the blue counter-intuitively, because the blue is harder it span up too easily on hard surfaces and wore out. On things like the pump track in the pictures, the mini pins are immense. 2) Connected to 1 - Be honest about where you drive. Having burnt through cool looking buggy tyres I now have a second set of wheels (Schumacher Flexlite read, Tamiya Dish Front both in black) with Schumacher RT1s and medium inserts for tarmac. 3) Suspension - I'm using the DF03 (not a typo, the 4WD car) setting springs, hard rear, softest front. Both are firmer than the kit springs. The DT-03 settings springs were right out because the colours would have looked rubbish if I'd needed the red ones. Yes, I am enough of a tart for that. Plus, couldn't see the point of a softer set of springs if the kit springs were in the middle. I saw the DF03 springs suggested on a thread on here I think. Great call. I got the TRF 54043 piston rods for the rear shock and standard CVA mini shock shafts 50601 for the front and used the kit sprues and some e-clips to convert the dampers to proper pistons. After some experimentation I'm running single hole pistons with the kit Soft Tamiya 400 CST oil 4) I got the anti roll bars, but have ended up not using them. Now I have the suspension firm enough to hold the car up it handles fine without the anti roll bars. IMHO. 5) I used the leftover ball studs from the unused roll bars to replace as many of the step screws in the damper mounts as possible. Much nicer and less rattly I got a bag of ball connectors (50591) to finish the job off, although the fronts need a bit of filing to get them to fit the wishbones. 6) Turnbuckles - Don't be a cheapskate like me and pick up a cheap DT02 set, as the steering arms don't fit! These do seen good for getting the grip up though. 2-3 neg both ends. 7) Driveshafts - I had no issues with the toughness of the plastic driveshafts, but I couldn't believe how much they restrict suspension movement. I didn't want to spend out on Universals as I'm not racing. I ended up taking a leaf out of the Sand Viper book and went to the metal driveshaft and cups. Only cost about a tenner for the parts, and the car stands up at the rear about another 10mm! They look better too, IMHO. Parts are: Shafts - Tamiya 9805551 Outdrives - Tamiya 9804237 Hub end cups - Tamiya 50823 8) Geared diff with the kit seems fine. I stuffed it with grease as advised somewhere on the internet and does fine for me. 9) Kimborough servo saver was a fiver well spent. Much more crisp steering. 10) Not sure if the Hop Up servo mount was £18 well spent, but it looks pretty and does look into the chassis and servo much more firmly. I'm open on this one as it's pretty expensive. Hope you like it, and hope that helps anyone looking at getting a DT-03. Cheers!
  6. I thought I had a thread about this but can't find it so if I already have one, it can be merged. I built this a good few years ago but someone has been asking questions so thought I would post a few pics of the install. It has been years since I worked on this. Gave up after around 35?mph decided that I couldn't really compete with 1/10 scale in the top speed Tamiya thread but I believe it's still in the top 20. Originally bought as a non runner for less than £20. Added M chassis rally block tyres. Ezrun 1/18th? It's a 2030 can at around 5700kv I think?. If I remember right, it's the 12turn motor. And the ESC takes 3s with multiple programmable features. Standard 1/10 servo held with servo tape and a cable tie through chassis to prevent any movement. Removed part of the top deck to get battery lower down. Running a badly puffed 2200mah 2,s. It puffed in a different car, it should be plenty for this car. Ball ends and adjusters with M3 threaded rod. Bottom of chassis with battery door open. I think that's it, if I remember anything else or you want to know anything, please ask.
  7. Hey guys, finally got my original Madcap ripping again! Bought an aftermarket shell and decals to replace the destroyed original. Got rid of my burnt out stock diff for a custom made planetary gear diff from a decent group on ebay. Added an original aluminum motor plate because my plastic one broke, as well as some aftermarket rims and Pro-Line Blockade tires. Upgraded all the electronics with a Fuze 60a brushless ESC, Spektrum SR315 Receiver and a cheap 4370kv brushless motor from Surpass Hobby. Gotta say this is my favorite car to drive so far, the whine from the gearbox even with aftermarket diff sounds awesome and the way this thing handles is actually pretty decent, gotta love being able to pull wheelies while already cruising at half throttle! I'll have to figure out how to post some videos!
  8. Hello everyone, so i'm having some issues with a tamiya brushless combo, consisting out of a TBLM-01S motor, TBLE-04SR esc, TRU-07 reciever and TTU-07 sender. It started acting up after i soldered the on/off switch internally and soldered the ESC's wires directly to the motor which i have done in the past with electronics from other brands succesfully. When you power it up everything seems to work correctly, you can give it 100% throttle no issues, however as soon as you touch the brakes or release the throttle it just stops really abruptly, beeps, and a red/orange light flickers briefly. After that everything works again, but only for like halve a second. After that it beeps and stops as soon as you hit the throttle or reverse. After a while the red led starts flickering fast indicating that somethings wrong/broken/overheating, or the orange led starts flickering which would indicate that the sensor cable is broken/disconnected(?), or the green light starts flickering, no idea what that would mean. So i'm thinking i damaged something in the esc whilst shorting the power button internally, or the motor got too hot whilst soldering, however if anyone has some ideas of what i could still try i'd love to hear it. I already tried changing some of the settings, charged the batteries, and changed the sensor cable but to no avail.
  9. Hey guys, sorry it took so long but all of my parts finally came in for the Hotshot build! Shipping things to Canada takes forever sometimes. I'm going to start on the build before the New Year but I'll be in Alabama for work for a few weeks after that so updates will be a bit delayed! So I've got an original YOU-G bumper and aluminum wing, Pro Line rims that I painted white with Prime and Shadow 4WD slicks, MIP ball bearing differentials, a Futaba high torque metal gear servo, a special edition Copperhead 10 ESC, a HobbyStar 540 V3 10.5T SPEC motor, a Futaba 3PRKA transmitter and receiver combo, a Fast Eddy ball bearing kit and finally a Hotshot Dart body by TBG. Let me know if you have any suggestions for other hop ups! Thanks guys and wish me luck
  10. I new here! Dear god please don’t tar and feather me! I mostly race Losi’s t5’s so I’m a bit out of touch with electric rc’s but I saw the tamiya 58578 zakspeed capri wurth (tt-02) and thought ok I need to own this, I’ve already got all the upgraded bearings! Now if it’s ok to get some help from all of tamiya experts. I would like to upgrade as much as I can and make it as fast and as reliable It can be using lipos. 1, what lipos can I get to fit to get the best run time? 2, what would be the best brushless motor and esc to use? 3, Best gearbox and diff upgrades can be used? 4, Best drive shafts? 5,Better suspension upgrades? 6,Oils grease and anything else I have forgotten? Many thanks in advance! Kind regards, Ian.
  11. I am looking for something different to build. I want it to be off-road but not necessarily a crawlers. I have some really great areas for bashing an off-roader Icelandic style so thought of the above as both are available as builders kits. I really want to build them rather than RTR. Does anybody have any experience of either. I was considering 3500kv brushless power for a little bit of oomph on 2s/3s? Any comments or experience would be appreciated
  12. Hi gang. Does anybody have experience with the TBLM 02S motors in motors in an Avante or Egress for that matter? How much will performance increase by going with one of these motors compared to a stock Avante motor? Talking re-re of course. Thanks
  13. Time to start on the next build! Just waiting for my Castle 5700kv smart sense motor to come in, when paired with the Copperhead 10 ESC the motor adjusts timing as you drive and changes from sensored to sensorless after you launch! Been waiting a long time for this one to come in and very excited
  14. Having skulked around taking so much advice and so many tips from these forums, thought it was time to contribute! This will be my second ever Tamiya kit build. My first was a Bigwig re:re a couple of months ago, which was very much by the book. This, a Boomerang re:re, is going to go off piste a bit! Now I've bitten the bullet and put this out there, I'm really hoping I don't make a total hash of it!
  15. Hey guys, happy to have found this community as I love Tamiya RC and have nobody to discuss it with! I used to race at my local tracks probably ten years ago and just got back into the hobby when I saw they were selling Tamiya buggy re releases. I have an original Frog that I restored back then but I had no idea re release was even a thing! I had to have some so I picked up a Frog and a Hotshot. My questions are about the Frog, what motor do you suggest for the most speed and power without destroying the car? I have upgraded the front suspension as well as the transmission with an MIP Super Ball Bearing Differential and added larger buggy wheels. I wanted to go brushless but I spoke with the guy who helped create this differential and he said even with the upgrade he wouldn't recommend it other than a very mild brushless motor or a 20 turn brushed motor. I am currently running an old Revenge of the Monster Horsepower Stock motor I had from when I used to race and I believe it's a 27 turn. I found a Traxxas 20 turn brushed motor but I'm not sure what would be best. Please let me know your brushless and brushed suggestions as well as gearing for a good all around basher. I will also be upgrading the Hotshot differentials to ball bearing in the future so I will be able to try a few of your suggestions. Thanks in advance!
  16. Hi all, nothing special about this build but I am keen to share my experience with the 505210 CVA shocks and my thoughts om them and the ideal eyelets to get the ideal ride height. Basic assembly done.. nothing special. In photo #1 I have decided to ignore the instructions and keep that retaining screw in there. It may actually prevent the trans from slapping when hitting the gas. I am aware of the ampro chassis brace or 5th shock mod but in no great rush to do either. I had this kit a couple years ago in a Black Edition colourway with 100% stock set up. TLDR: 17.5 brushless is about the same speed. I didn't want to do anything too crazy, fearing that the 1987 gearbox may not handle it. Caution on the placement and rotation of the motor. the next increment anti-clockwise makes the wires hit the shock. A clockwise increment makes the wires hit the chassis. Below. I've chosen XT60 connectors as I'm familiar with XT90's on my other stuff and I am going to run this with my 2S shorty Lipo's via an adapter that I will make. The 3 motor wires go nicely through the rear parcel tray. The ESC is a Hobbywing Xerun 2.1 (Justock) - it belonged to my first indoor offroad 1/10 buggy and has since been superseded.
  17. Castle Monster X 25.2v ESC, 8A BEC W/1515-2200kV Sensored for a Savage XL Flux running 2S (x2) - what do you think?
  18. I've got this old Hobbywing Xerun that's a few years old and last used it 1.5 years ago for mod indoor buggy racing 10.5.... fast forward and I've put it into my Lunch Box with a 17.5 sensored motor and I want to have reverse reinstated. I have no program card... I know how to program my bigger Max6 no problem. This thing just goes beyond calibration mode and keeps flashing red with no other noises. Can someone please help? Has anyone had this issue? I'm not getting those wonderful beeps
  19. Hi all, thought I'd share a recent beach run with the Lunchbox. With some mods the Lunchbox can handle quite well: And some at regular speed:
  20. A while ago, I planned on uprating my son's ride on car to twin brushless. (http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=71240) Well, that project has been put on a back shelf, and in the mean time I've been working on his quad. I'd already uprated the motor to a 12Tx2 brushed with a 7.4v LiPo, which really flew, but wanted to complete the challenge of making it brushless. The main complication was translating a simple on off button to an ESC. In the end, I did it with a relay which switches between two servo testers. One set at neutral, and the other at a forward speed. Needless to say, it's ridiculously fast and my son loves it. Plus, I can dial the speed down to 'normal' speed for when a younger child wants to play on it. So, here are a few photos of the results.
  21. Tamiya TRF Transpeed Brushless Octa-Wind 4.5T Motor. BRAND NEW, UNOPENED and in the UK now, so no long wait or disappointment: Other sellers sometimes only order from Tamiya when you’ve paid! If it’s out of stock you then face a very long wait, and then sometimes disappointment when it can’t be supplied. Save the worry and be reassured of a quick and guaranteed delivery: £140.00
  22. Tamiya Volac - BL2 Brushless Esc - 42144 - Brand New and unopened. Other sellers sometimes only order from Tamiya when you’ve paid! If it’s out of stock you then face a very long wait, and then sometimes disappointment when it can’t be supplied. Save the worry and be reassured of a quick and guaranteed delivery. In the UK now so no waiting or disappointment. Took months to get and not cheap, but fast becoming collectable. This is the ESC that Marc Rheinland used to win the 2008 IRMAR World Championship. For expert use: £320.00
  23. Hi, I have a few Tamiya, TRF tools and parts for sale: 1x Tamiya - 45057 TBLE-O2S Brushless ESC - £22.00 1x Tamiya TRF - 42147 Hex Wrench 2.5mm - £28.00 1x Tamiya TRF - 42161 Screwdriver M - £28.00 4x Tamiya TRF - 42351 Centre Pully - £22.00 each All plus postage. Feel free to respond here or email me directly: helenstott17@yahoo.co.uk
  24. In the dim and distant past pre Covid 19 Jadlam had Dual Riders on special. Now I didnt need one, in fact I thought they were a bit of a gimmick, however after watching a few youtube videos thought it might be fun so pulled the trigger. Once it arrived I thought it might be fun to hop it up a bit so started collecting Tamiya and YR hop ups along with a Hobbywing brushless combo. I also bought a lipo as I thought this might be a good way to try them out. I already had a charger that will do lipos. Whilst looking for hopups on RCMart I came across a body kit of a Pizza/Chinese delivery trike on the T3-03. In the basket it went!!! All of the stuff was here just after lockdown started. I had a few other things to do so I put it away for a rainy day. Well those of you who live in the UK will know over the last couple of weeks we've had quite a few rainy days so I got it out and started. Its a surprisingly enjoyable build, really quite clevererly designed and as usual goes together with Tamiyas usual ruthless efficiency including all the hop ups. Below are a string of photos of the main parts of the build, I had two hitches along the way, one was a that I needed a single male deans plug and all my spare plugs are XT60's. Fortunately @Wez-li helped out. Feel really guilty as the postage was more than the cost of a plug. Many thanks. The other hitch was the brushless motor has a longer can than the stock 370 so I had to raid the spares to find some wider hex's so that the wheels don't rub on the cables. The Pizza body is going to be a labour of love not least as the instructions are only in Japanese!!!. This is where I've got to: When I get a moment I will list all the hop ups that I have added, its quite a few for such a small vehicle!!!
  25. Hello! Still not sure if i should post that, i guess some People might dont like the conversion, but since i converted a TGX to Brushless also, they way for the TGR Project was free All started with some TGX Cars, somewhere i saw the TGR Chassis and liked it, specialy with my most loved Body Shell the TS020 Toyota GT - One which was also hard to get. Since the TGR has only 2 Speed Gear i had to use a TGX Single Speed shaft and Added a Modul 1 Main Gear, shortened the TGX Gear Support, using a TB02 Motor Mount which has the same height as the TGR Bearing Carrier. ofc the Shaft is Shorter then the TGR 2 Speed Shaft so i had to make a New Prop Shaft which is 4mm longer then an original TGR one, the Chassis itself is selfmade since i dont want do Drill the One Original Chassis Plate i got, u cant get another new one at a reasonable price lol ! The Wheel Question was one of the hardest parts, the Original Wheels are Rare and expensive to, so i was searching around, ending in the 1/8 Nitro Race Car Corner, the Front Foam Wheels fits kinda 95% and are dirt cheap, with the Right Rim Type they can be added on the Original 12mm Hex Hubs (just reverse them ) of the TGR with an Custom made Nut to accept the 12mm Hole of the Wheel. fittet with an custom Upper Deck to and some parts from different Brands it finally come together, just need another ESC, the Mamba Monster Max is way to big for it lol It did his First drive out on a Cold Street, totaly fun Regards, Oswald
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