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Found 28 results

  1. Im new to Tamiya Club so i figured i would document this build and that might be a good introduction. Ill try and keep it intresting. I know the Egress has been built a lot but i have some ideas that maybe some would like to see. If there is interest in this build, ill take it through to the end.
  2. This car is probably one of what I’d consider high in the top five most good looking buggies of all time with one caveat; in profile view. The broad airdam like inspiration perhaps pulled from the BigWig is maybe a questionable decision but nobody can deny that this vehicle is a solid entry from Tamiya with the new chassis mentality of flexibly, smooth A-arms and long travel suspension. The EVO is certainly an evolution of the original with the inclusion of the carbon, aluminum, and other nice choices that are a joy to build. Oh the classic Tamiya presentation. How lovely as always! naturally any self-respecting RC fanatic cannot resist mounting tires immediately upon opening a Tamiya kit. I was surprised to see a nice baby ESC was included in case I wanted to go really tame with the motor. And we’re off to the races. Gee, this sure reminds me of a HotShot so far
  3. Hello! Im new here to Tamiyaclub and tamiya RC. I just ordered my firct rc kit, a TT02 (A80 Racing Supra). I was just wondering, is there anything I should know and pay attention to when I start to build it? I think I remember seeing some Youtube videos where people used tackle boxes to sort out screws? (Are there really THAT many???) Maybe a dumb question, is it better for me to try to finish in a day or two, or should I spend my time building it? Even if it ends up taking a week or two? Are stock TT02 shocks really as bad as some say? A good set of shocks + oil might cost me around 30-40 dollars (US). Is it worth buying a set? Or is a cheap >$20 set ok too? And I have about 6 spare 2s LiPo batteries from a dud rc truck I got for about $100. Im hoping to be able to use those (I got a lvc too) Im just planning to drive around anywhere I can, really. Just want to make it as fun as possible while keeping it relatively cheap. Not looking to make a bunch of upgrades (though I did get bearings). Thanks in advance for all the answers! And if there is anything else I should know, please feel free to throw it out there!
  4. Can someone please recommend a good body filler? I have some cars lined up that need modelling. I am looking for a smooth body filler that doesn’t dry in just minutes, but allows proper modelling. Of course, sanding must be possible and it should accept primer.
  5. I figured I'd make a build thread for my first kit, I have experience restoring and repairing RCs, but I've never built a kit. I chose an M05 both due to its low cost, previous experience with a few M-chassis, and because they're just fun drivers. Of course, a day later Tamiya more or less announced the cancelation of the chassis, and a nice already built used example of what I'm building popped up on ebay. My plan is to stick close to the book, Im new to kits, I shouldn't start breaking rules before I know them. But the real question is, will I build another kit after this one? The only hop ups that I will be using are RA uprights (though I will test the chassis in low mode), bearings, torque tuned motor, and a set of 50mm dampers from a previous project. For car park bashing I have little need for much more. I did consider an aluminum motor mount but I couldn't find any. As of this writing the chassis is 80% done, the weather will more or less dictate when I get to the body. I was short just a few self-tapper screws but thankfully I have spares. I didn't take many pictures but I will show the chassis once its ready for testing, and of course the body when its completed.
  6. Well… I must have gotten a bit of the TRF fever while building the FF-03evo in the past weeks. It got worse when @Juhunio and @lukej started their TRF415 build threads. And now here we are with another thread… What does this thread offer to the reader then? For the start, my 415 version will fit right in between Juhunios MS and Lukes MSXX MRE. So the reader can follow the late versions history of the 415 in close and all detail. Tamiya was a real race car manufacturer back then, updating their 415 platform every year, offering new parts regularly to keep the edge in the competition. And it shows. Juhunio had a hard time identifying his version and I would have the same problem just looking at the parts the chassis came with: I got a box that says 415MS upgrade set, I got upper bulkheads with different height, a front-one-way, a strange topdeck, hacked rear bulkheads (for the use of LiPo batteries I guess) and other strange parts like the rear suspension arms, that look like Evo3. And then there is the chassis. Undoubtedly an MRE, because you couldn’t buy an upgrade set and it got everything the MRE came with. So I guess the previous owner just added all TRF415 leftover parts he had. My build/restoration won’t get as beautiful as Juhunios or Lukes, but I still ordered some nice parts to give it back its bling. Next on comes the disassembly and cleaning… it is pretty dirty…
  7. I'm going to be building a touring/drift car with a TT02 chassis. My questions are: 1: What motor and ESC should I get? Is this combo good? https://www.hobbywing.com/mobile/goods.php?id=578&filter_attr=5456.0 2: Should I get a TT02 Type SR, TT02R or a TT02 Type S? The prices I found: TT02 Type SR 199€ TT02R 126€ TT02 Type S 157€ 3: What hop ups would you recommend?
  8. Having injured my back at work earlier this month, I'm currently stuck at home in "recovery" for the next three months. I'm pretty much immobile and getting bored, so I've decided to put this together to pass some of the time: The idea is go all out with the chassis, and make something functional yet still aesthetically pleasing. As stated in the thread title, it's going to be an M06RS, since it will have a 210mm wheelbase, but enough mods to garner the "R" designation. Oh, and I'm going to make it 8mm wider as well Haven't any idea how this will effect handling, but my primary aim is to fill the wheel arches better than the stock configuration seems to offer. A sample of the hop-ups I'll be using: As you can see, most of it is standard Tamiya stuff, with a few other aftermarket makers thrown in for good measure. Not all of it mind you, but this might give you an idea of how methodically I've been planning this build!
  9. Since my ongoing project to copycat @ALEXKYRIAK famous Neo Scorcher Formula One design is still waiting for parts to arrive, I thought I would rebuild and redesign my existing and quite tired TT02B Plasma Edge II buggy. I also wanted to prove to myself that the Plasma Edge body could be beautiful if painted and designed appropriately because from searching online, I see a lot of gorgeous Neo Scorchers but rarely a pleasant Plasma Edge. So let me take you through the build of what I am calling the Tamiya TT02B ICE Buggy. I started from a very different buggy which had seen to much bashing and grass racing I cleaned everything up, disassembled the parts and started working on dressing up the new replacement chassis. First things first, protect those cavities near the direction in which stones get stuck, sometimes impacting driving. I used playing cards which I cut to dimension and glued before painting. Since I wanted to get to this ICE design, I used flat mat white on the chassis and body. I like the result. I also worked on the bottom of the chassis, painting it and protecting it with a carbon looking sticker. I then reattached all parts including carbon schock mounts, a brushless GoolRC motor and ESC and moved on to work on the body. I started by using mask tape and protective plastic sheels to paint three areas for three icey colors. I played around with only 3 colors : white mat, Tamiya Anodized blue and glossy black. I used the white and black as backgrounds to create different shades of the Tamiya blue. Here is the result before I started working on the spoiler. l think the ICE design was coming to life beautifully at this point Finally I started thinking of an original spoiler design and after long thoughts I figured... Why not take it upside down? And here it comes... Once it was in place and looking at all the leftover lexan, I had the idea of making it a double decker (so to speak). This turned out to be a good idea, it really looks different from anything I've seen. And finally, after long hours of building, masking and painting, here is my version of the TT02B Plasma Edge II. The Tamiya TT02B ICE Buggy ! Let me know what you think
  10. So, Having bought my self the MF-01x Ford Escork MK2 for my birthday as a one of thing and having finished it, pending some hop ups ( dispite it not being my birthday for 2 weeks ) I now find my self wanting another kit. The question is what? I got the MF-01x as I can run it in my garden or local walking spots and I prefer scale to buggies. I love looking at the scale stuff and fancy a drif setup, but I don't have any where to drive it. I'm posibly looking at a tt-02s in April when they become available or ( and ) a XV-01 ( if i could have got hold of one I probably would have got this over the MF-01X. But I don't want to stick all rally cars. The 6yo like the luck of the lunch box so I could get that. But I would have to work on it with him rather than in the hour or so after they go to bed. So this would take some time over weekends. So over to you guys, what would you get in my position without watting for months?
  11. This should be fun - only my second build, after a lunch box during the lockdown. I bought this kit off @Grumpy pants and have a few hop up parts (green trim) - but basically going to aim for the box art. What I really wanted is a fun car that behaves like a monster truck, on a modern chassis. I'm hoping I get the same fun as I do from the lunch box.... but with a wee bit more steering. This will take me ages, as I like to sit down for a short while every night, have a drink and listen to radio 6. If I do it too fast I'll only have to buy another one . I'll post a few pics as I go.
  12. Foreword: This thread is very image heavy. What can I say? I was a photo major in college. It turns out that while I did size them down for the site I didn't lower the DPI per image enough and the images are about .6MB each. This can (and has) cause slow loading and unnecessary bandwidth usage. I've adjusted my image editing software so that both the dimensions and resolution are reduced to optimal levels for the web. I will update the existing pictures as I can. Once that has been completed I will remove this forward. Until then, I apologize for the large-ish file size of the images. The build: I got a TRF 201 for my birthday. I couldn't find any TRF 201 builds here so I guess it's up to me to make one. I know there are a number of people here who have these cars so if you notice that I'm doing something wrong or if you have any tips for me while I build it, please speak up! I'm going to take my time on this because I want to do it right. It's been like forever since I raced R/C. My last foray was in 1989 when I raced the guys in my shop while I was in the Air Force. We build a small, impromptu track and I hammered my Falcon almost daily. Back then I was running a Technituned motor and NiCad batteries. It'll be interesting to see just how far ahead of my old Falcon this buggy is. If the DT-02 Desert Gator my son and I recently built so he can race is any indication of the potential of this car I'm sure to be blown away. So without further ado, let's get on with the build. The box is little. Mostly because the body and wing are packaged separately: The box may not be very big, but WOW they sure do pack a lot into it! Every single sprue was individually wrapped in it's own plastic bag, closed with 2 staples per bag. I'm not sure THAT'S necessary. It sure did take some time unpacking them all. The screw bags are all still neatly in their bags. It seems like there are hundreds of parts in each screw bag too. Whew! This is really going to take some time to build. You might notice that I have a Super Stock BZ motor. I also have a Dirt Tuned I could use instead but the BZ seemed more appropriate as a starter motor for this guy. Why not go brushless? Well, I will eventually but I have a new Duratrax Intellispeed 12T ESC which won't work with a brushless motor. So I'll stay brushed for a while until I learn how to drive again and then I'll upgrade the ESC / Motor when I get a better feel for what the other 2WD buggies at the track are running. I also have a Futaba S3151 servo to use in conjunction with my Futaba 3PL. To me it seemed that the basic S3003 servo wasn't in the same league as this car so I opted for a bit of an upgrade there. I'm going to end the post here and will pick back up with Step 1, building the ball differential in the next post. Wish me luck!
  13. Hey TC Members! How are we all doing today, during these unprecedented times? So, I've wanted the Tamiya High lift since its release but couldn't afford it at the time. But finally bit the gun and bought myself the High lift and awaiting its delivery! I have been doing quite a fair amount of research on the chassis, to try and build the "ultimate" high lift spec (on a budget - if possible). I know its not a very capable trail truck, especially with its standard transmission placement (getting caught because of low ground clearance, etc) but this is where the upgrades come in to improve this truck! Also, I will be ditching the stupid 4-wheel steering setup on the chassis, not needed at all as its not a monster truck and looks ridiculous. (don't know why Tamiya thought it would be a good idea) What would your top upgrades be, that you would suggest? (I am aware of the JunFac 4-Link suspension link upgrade for the High Lift, but I would prefer to stick with leaf springs due to more scale look and personally I'm not a fan of the 4-link suspension on the high lift - just doesn't suit it in my opinion) Whilst I am still waiting for the delivery man/woman, I have been busy making a pre build upgrade list for the chassis (listed below) BODY Shell: Undecided between F350 / Tundra or Something else that fits the standard wheelbase ELECTRONICS ESC: Quicrun 1080 Motor: Tamiya TR Torque Tuned 33T (For scale speed and although motor was intended for 1/14 Trucks, the motor was built for specifically Tamiya 3-Speed Transmission) Servo (Steering): Hi-Toque Waterproof Metal Geared (Not sure which yet?) Servo (Gearing): N/A - Will be locking the Transmission to all time 4x4 Low Pinion: Steel (Standard Metrics) WHEELS Rims: Standard Tires: Undecided (Looking for something a little larger that fits on standard rims?) Foams: Stiffer foam for the rear UPGRADES GMADE TS01 90mm Alloy Scale Shocks (Shocks do not require oil but will test) - Mounted upside-down Shock Oil: Front - 200 to 300CST (Piston 4-hole) Shock Oil: Rear - 300 to 400CST (Piston 3-hole) Leaf Springs: Either removal of 2 leaf springs or upgraded to RC4WD red super soft AMPRO High Lift Front Motor Kit AMPRO High Lift Transmission Lift AMPRO High Lift Central Battery Kit AMPRO High Lift Battery Retainer AMPRO High Lift Spring Perch Gmade/JunFac 1 Piece Heavy Duty Steering Knuckle Arms Gmade/JunFac 1 Piece Heavy Duty Straight Axle Adaptor Gmade/JunFac Hard Carbon Steel Universal Shafts Gmade/JunFac Front Servo Steering kit (My concern would this interfere with the AMPRO Front Motor kit??)
  14. Ok, this is my first foray into an R/C build and it came to a stage for affixing some decals to the chassis. So I watched several youtube videos on the matter and equipped myself with: hobby knife, micro set, detail paint brushes, cotton buds, kitchen towel, reverse action blunt ended tweezers and a dish of warm water. In the videos the decal slid neatly off the backing paper and on to the model where it could be slid into place. That's not quite what happened with me. No matter how long or short I soaked the decal in the water for, all that happened was that the blue backing paper turned into a mush and wouldn't come away from the decal. The three decals I now have on my clod look an embarrassing mess and have stuck on with a varying degree of success. Simple question, where am I going wrong please?
  15. I appreciate the title is very subjective, rewarding means different things to everyone. I thought I'd ask about peoples most interesting/rewarding re-re kits as I have just gone for a re-re as I always felt I wouldn't find them that rewarding. I have only ever been interested in restores, i've done about 12 so far. The obvious benefits are the ability to run lipo/brushless (new plastics/nylon or metal gears) and the convenience of having everything in the box to finish the job. However, for me the reward comes from the updates - such as the Avante Black Special with the race steering set and torque splitter. Are there any other Tamiya ReRe's that have been modernised? It's one reason I've been attracted to the Kyosho's, they update their kits throughout. Tamiya seem (happy to be corrected) to keep to the original spec as much as possible. What Tamiya ReRe kits are worth looking at for the updates/improvements on original?
  16. I have seen some people use Threadlock on both re-re and original (restore) builds. I have never done so, despite being sorely tempted on at least one chassis. I have always assumed the compounds would likely be unkind to plastic over time. Any experience to share? Avoid? Use where necessary? Use by default?
  17. Stuck on two restores (as is the way) and so time to crack this one open. My first NIB build since 1987. It feels great knowing I won’t discover half way through that I’m missing a part. I didn’t realise though that the Ladder Chain (OT226) was NOT in the kit. I’ve seen kits online where the same sticker and blister space “Option Parts OT226” is there with a chain inside. Are there two versions of the kit? Not to worry, I’ll build belt drive.
  18. So a little over a year ago I ordered an XV-01 long damper kit from Omni models. It was on backorder at the time, but I was willing to wait. Well one month turned into 3 and then I was finally told that Tamiya had discontinued the kit. All the while I was waiting on the kit from OM, I had been stockpiling hop-ups. The problem is, I was getting parts for the long damper kit. The ones that are actually in question are the carbon damper stays. Also, I believe I got the completely wrong dampers for this kit. I bought the TRF Special Damper set, which is apparently intended for touring cars. I was/am stuck. I have a whole bunch of parts that I may or may not be able to use, and I decided to buy the standard XV-01 kit to avoid a total loss. Plus this is the car I really wanted when I was building the DF-03RA but it hadn't been produced yet. I ended up selling the DF-03RA a while back and it was never used. Can anyone who has built either the long damper or standard kit advise me on what parts I have that are usable. If I use the carbon damper stays (54581, 54582), what dampers can I use? Any help would be much appreciated. When I start building, I will post a good and robust thread.
  19. Hi guys - it's been a while since I posted a build thread, and this isn't much of one, but I added a showroom entry showing some of the little oddities about the early/Mk1 Hornet kits. As most of you know even the vintage kits were produced over a number of years, with revisions to parts and instructions along the way. One of the most famous is that of the Mk1 Hotshot with the 3-hole (weak) bumper. Well the differences with the Mk1 Hornet are subtler but they are definitely noticeable when it comes time to do the MSC bits. Have a look! https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=134409&id=39840
  20. Hi all, New to builds, having had my Dad make me a Super Blackfoot as a kid. My cousin had a LB, and I always loved how mental it was to drive😂 My missus bought me one as a gift back in February and having put it all together, and immediately crashing it, I decided I wanted to look at making it fun but better to drive. To date I’ve installed a Tamiya Sports Tuned motor, metal bearings, and this evening I’ve installed oil filled shocks. Having just taken it out, it seems to sit better under load. I will say it pulls a touch to the left, and I’m almost certain that the wheels are spinning inside the tyres. So my questions are the following: How can I make the car better than stock beyond those adjustments? Should I have replaced the pinion with the motor upgrade? Foam in the tyres or not bother? What’s the best battery setup to choose? Where can I get a transmission strut brace in the UK, as I don’t want to do the 5th shock mod? Sanding down the damage on the body for re-spraying, what’s the best process? Sorry, lots of questions but I’m very new to this. Kind Regards, Carl
  21. _oliK

    My Rallye M-01

    I don't always post build threads, but when I do, I'm already 85% finished! Anyway, thought I'd finally share my M-01 rallying project (or rather: gravel skid machine). This is my first own RC car, or at least the first one that I built myself, back in 2009. I drove it for a while, had lots of fun and then...well. It sat on my shelf. I've planned on rebuilding it, and bought two modded M-02's for spares, so you could call it a M-05 now. Here are some pics of the original state (Chassis was bone stock with blue Fighter shocks - legit): There aren't many pictures of the rebuild, but I sealed the gearbox with doublesided tape, and generally tried to protect everything against dirt and other nasty bits. Nothing oozes "professional paintjob" like a cardbox box on a heater! Looks crude, but a little preparation and some masking tape makes a huge difference. Painted the Team Blue Groove undercowl - great quality for a repo, and about one week shipment from canada to germany, absolute bargain. Here are some chassis pics, I will add a complete hop up list when I'm finished. Already took it out for a test drive, it had me grinning like a lunatic! The LRP F1 ESC is fantastic, switches from forward to brake/reverse in like nothing. Let me just say something about the quick release battery holder: I first saw it in an old 1996 Tamiya catalogue, and wanted one ever since. I got it with a M-02, that was never run, but had lots of hop-ups fitted. Everything about it was new and shiny, except for the battery holder. This means, that it also took the previous owner years to get his hands on this part! Some of you may have also noticed the bent metal piece in there, I custom made this for fitting a Willy Driver figure. And it took me eight iterations to get it just right. Eight. A new body is already painted (the old one being quite abused, and painted badly), but i'm still waiting for some parts. Here you can see how I masked off the arches: I first masked off the complete body, except for the arches and side steps. I used overlapping making tpae to get the shape of the arches just right, then masked only the Windows and painted everything White. Then I covered it up with silver, and gave the arches another coat of black, so that the silver isn't visible behind the wheels. But I ended up with some major imperfections: I'm quite upset with myself, but I won't buy a third body. I'll just make it as dirty as possible while driving. I should be finished with the stickers (personal custom stickers, yay!) in a few days, until then!
  22. My first CC-01 and what a treat it was to build. Here's pics of start to finish. After this initial post, I intend to follow up with pics/video of it in use when time allows, as well as questions on future mods and changes. Photobucket has pretty much destroyed all of the good CC01 threads, so maybe we can make a new one that covers everything. We'll discuss the goods, the bads, what to mod, and what not to mod. Feel free to post pics of your CC01 mods or just show off your CC01 in general. Pics of my build: I added a 65T RC 4WD Crawler motor. Following the advice of several YT videos, I took out the slack in the rear diff using bushings and a washer. Also, both front and rear diff are locked. I locked the front diff using the method where you add an extra spider gear. I used AW Grease to seal up the rear diff and front gear covers. The only change I have made to the suspension so far is that I added the Stroke Extension Kit. Body is all trimmed up. I may remove the front bumper in the future. I can see how it could get hung up on obstacles, and I also can now see why everyone cuts the front brick. Showing a bit of articulation. I didn't take any pics of the electronics, but I am using the Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 Waterproof ESC. I have a spare receiver box from a TT02B that I sealed up my receiver in. I'll be smearing a light coat of clear silicone around the seams of the receiver box just to make sure water doesn't get in. The body is painted. While painting it, I also painted a new body for my M06 chassis. Stickers are complete. Some pics from the back yard. My next question pertains to springs/shocks. Would longer dampers give me more height, or would I be better off going with the Tamiya barrel springs for better choice of spring rate?
  23. Ok guys and gals, I'm after some advice... I'm looking to get back into the hobby after 20years.. In that time I've owned a Dark Impact and a TT-01 as toys.. But now I want to get back running something that can take a bash, run across multiple surfaces and has a wide range of hopups.. So things to consider, Cost, I'm not made of money.. No great funds to outlay in the first instance. Hop ups, I'd like something I can build, take apart, re build, modify, make fun. Durability, I have kids who will want to play. Ability, I want to run across various surfaces, mainly grass and mud, but the odd carpark and Tarmac'd area will be seen too Must run electric, the noise of the Nitro's/petrol will drive me mad. A buggy not a car, I had more fun with the Dark Impact than the TT-01. Not a beginners buggy. With those in mind I looked at buggy's and settled on the DB-01.. Reading reviews it seems the next step up from the Dark Impact without the high initial costs of the TRF or high end buggy's.. I'm likely to crash.. So to the DB-01... Looking around second am hand models seem few and far between, so looking at new kits, £220 ish.. Ok not to bad, but knowing I want to fully hop up, and run brushless and potentially LiPos my next question is don't look for a DB-01, DB-01R, DB-01RR, DB-01RRR or buy all the parts separately taking my time building up my car, know it inside and out and have exactly the set up I want without a pile of unused plastic parts and empty Hop up wrappers.. I'm not worried about having a running car over night, but want to enjoy the build, setting up, tweaking and then running and doing it all over again! What's everybody's opinion.. Have I gone down the wrong route with the DB-01? Am I coming at the whole thing wrong? Have I missed something out? Over to you!
  24. Hi All, I*m new here, treat me nice ;-) I've bought a Bruiser off eBay, with the idea being to restore and re-build where necessary. I work on computers every day, so this is a great way for me to work with my hands and get my mind away from computers and screens! I bought it as a semit-complete kit - so the chassis & running gear are are all there, with working electrics, but the body needs to be completed, and there are two seemingly serious issues to deal with before the truck can run... But, the last time I worked on an RC car was about 30 years ago and it was fleeting - when I was a kid this was the thing I wanted to do but my parents couldn't afford for me to do, so it was only with a few friends once or twice! So basically I'm new to this, and have probably bitten off a bit more than I should to start with. [To remedy that, I've bought a bunch of Grasshoppers off ebay too, which I'm going to work on as well - time to satisfaction much faster!] So I have some questions which I hope the folks here can help with: 1) slop on the front axle? When I put on the wheels, there was a bit of slop which I put down to tightening. Now that I've spent more time on the truck, I can see that the hub shafts are moving around in the knuckles too much. More tightening, or is this normal? What to do? 2) what should it sound like? What should a good motor + running gear sound like when it's running - what are the warning signs for more grease / bad lubrication / problems / etc etc? 3) shifting the tranny? This thread from Nitomor is excellent, and it's highlighted how important it is to get the shifting right. My one only shifts into 4wd drive if I really push the rod as far as it can go manually with my fingers, certainly can't do it with the servo alone - so how do I adjust this so that the servo can do it for me? What are the measurements I should be watching out for? 4) what servos to use? Again, the thread from Nitomor is great for inspiration! Would metal gear servos be good as a matter of course? What ones are recommended? Which is tougher on the servo - direction (left / right) or shifting the tranny? I'm in the UK, so any suggestions on what to get would be appreciated. Could follow Nitomor exactly, but then sounds like his Bruiser is mostly for the shelf, so wonder if there are better options? Also, which servo saver? Mine has new white circular ones on the tranny servo. 5) what transmitter to use? I can get the transmitter to shift into the 2wd gears no problem, but moving the rod far enough back to switch into 4wd reliably, then keep it there, seems to be beyond the transmitter / servo combination. Is there a way to tune this I'm missing? Again related to the servo question - seems like using a gate on the transmitter is a bit of a hack if you can use a switch instead? Seems like if the switch can do Neutral, Left & Right, then you've got the 3 speed shifting you need? If so, which transmitter is recommended? Would any 6 or 7 channel transmitter within budget work, or are there specific models only? Nitomor is using the Futaba FF7, and there is a guy who posted a build using a Carson tx - so what should I be looking for? Lastly, I'm not building this for the shelf - this is being built to run around with my kids. I'm hoping to hop on a GoPro or similar so that I can take photos of my kids running around without having to actually keep up with them ;-) So when answering please bear that in mind - I'm not looking for beauty or perfect lines, mainly something that will last and will be bomb-proof, much like my real life 1:1 Bruiser! Cool, over to you guys, thanks in advance!
  25. Currently building a re re Super Hot Shot and chose the hobbywing 1060 esc for its built in LIPO fail safe and a few other things it odes better than the stock esc in the kit. When installing though the power switch has a really short lead and doesn't seem to reach the on off switch location on the super hot shot body, which I presume is the same location as for the hot shot, for those that may have installed in a hot shot. Also in the kit we're meant to place screws down through the body via pre-drilled holes, into the switch. The 1060's pre-wired switch is smaller than the stock Tamiya one and doesn't have holes to receive these screws. With that said, what's the recommended mounting solution for the power switch ? Currently I have it temporarily serve taped under the access panel, which is a pain as I have to take the body off each time to turn the car on. Any ideas or examples greatly appreciated.
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