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Found 10 results

  1. Effigy3

    TRF 201 Item #42167

    Foreword: This thread is very image heavy. What can I say? I was a photo major in college. It turns out that while I did size them down for the site I didn't lower the DPI per image enough and the images are about .6MB each. This can (and has) cause slow loading and unnecessary bandwidth usage. I've adjusted my image editing software so that both the dimensions and resolution are reduced to optimal levels for the web. I will update the existing pictures as I can. Once that has been completed I will remove this forward. Until then, I apologize for the large-ish file size of the images. The build: I got a TRF 201 for my birthday. I couldn't find any TRF 201 builds here so I guess it's up to me to make one. I know there are a number of people here who have these cars so if you notice that I'm doing something wrong or if you have any tips for me while I build it, please speak up! I'm going to take my time on this because I want to do it right. It's been like forever since I raced R/C. My last foray was in 1989 when I raced the guys in my shop while I was in the Air Force. We build a small, impromptu track and I hammered my Falcon almost daily. Back then I was running a Technituned motor and NiCad batteries. It'll be interesting to see just how far ahead of my old Falcon this buggy is. If the DT-02 Desert Gator my son and I recently built so he can race is any indication of the potential of this car I'm sure to be blown away. So without further ado, let's get on with the build. The box is little. Mostly because the body and wing are packaged separately: The box may not be very big, but WOW they sure do pack a lot into it! Every single sprue was individually wrapped in it's own plastic bag, closed with 2 staples per bag. I'm not sure THAT'S necessary. It sure did take some time unpacking them all. The screw bags are all still neatly in their bags. It seems like there are hundreds of parts in each screw bag too. Whew! This is really going to take some time to build. You might notice that I have a Super Stock BZ motor. I also have a Dirt Tuned I could use instead but the BZ seemed more appropriate as a starter motor for this guy. Why not go brushless? Well, I will eventually but I have a new Duratrax Intellispeed 12T ESC which won't work with a brushless motor. So I'll stay brushed for a while until I learn how to drive again and then I'll upgrade the ESC / Motor when I get a better feel for what the other 2WD buggies at the track are running. I also have a Futaba S3151 servo to use in conjunction with my Futaba 3PL. To me it seemed that the basic S3003 servo wasn't in the same league as this car so I opted for a bit of an upgrade there. I'm going to end the post here and will pick back up with Step 1, building the ball differential in the next post. Wish me luck!
  2. Having injured my back at work earlier this month, I'm currently stuck at home in "recovery" for the next three months. I'm pretty much immobile and getting bored, so I've decided to put this together to pass some of the time: The idea is go all out with the chassis, and make something functional yet still aesthetically pleasing. As stated in the thread title, it's going to be an M06RS, since it will have a 210mm wheelbase, but enough mods to garner the "R" designation. Oh, and I'm going to make it 8mm wider as well Haven't any idea how this will effect handling, but my primary aim is to fill the wheel arches better than the stock configuration seems to offer. A sample of the hop-ups I'll be using: As you can see, most of it is standard Tamiya stuff, with a few other aftermarket makers thrown in for good measure. Not all of it mind you, but this might give you an idea of how methodically I've been planning this build!
  3. _oliK

    My Rallye M-01

    I don't always post build threads, but when I do, I'm already 85% finished! Anyway, thought I'd finally share my M-01 rallying project (or rather: gravel skid machine). This is my first own RC car, or at least the first one that I built myself, back in 2009. I drove it for a while, had lots of fun and then...well. It sat on my shelf. I've planned on rebuilding it, and bought two modded M-02's for spares, so you could call it a M-05 now. Here are some pics of the original state (Chassis was bone stock with blue Fighter shocks - legit): There aren't many pictures of the rebuild, but I sealed the gearbox with doublesided tape, and generally tried to protect everything against dirt and other nasty bits. Nothing oozes "professional paintjob" like a cardbox box on a heater! Looks crude, but a little preparation and some masking tape makes a huge difference. Painted the Team Blue Groove undercowl - great quality for a repo, and about one week shipment from canada to germany, absolute bargain. Here are some chassis pics, I will add a complete hop up list when I'm finished. Already took it out for a test drive, it had me grinning like a lunatic! The LRP F1 ESC is fantastic, switches from forward to brake/reverse in like nothing. Let me just say something about the quick release battery holder: I first saw it in an old 1996 Tamiya catalogue, and wanted one ever since. I got it with a M-02, that was never run, but had lots of hop-ups fitted. Everything about it was new and shiny, except for the battery holder. This means, that it also took the previous owner years to get his hands on this part! Some of you may have also noticed the bent metal piece in there, I custom made this for fitting a Willy Driver figure. And it took me eight iterations to get it just right. Eight. A new body is already painted (the old one being quite abused, and painted badly), but i'm still waiting for some parts. Here you can see how I masked off the arches: I first masked off the complete body, except for the arches and side steps. I used overlapping making tpae to get the shape of the arches just right, then masked only the Windows and painted everything White. Then I covered it up with silver, and gave the arches another coat of black, so that the silver isn't visible behind the wheels. But I ended up with some major imperfections: I'm quite upset with myself, but I won't buy a third body. I'll just make it as dirty as possible while driving. I should be finished with the stickers (personal custom stickers, yay!) in a few days, until then!
  4. Kingfisher

    CC-01 Landfreeder Build Mod Crawl

    My first CC-01 and what a treat it was to build. Here's pics of start to finish. After this initial post, I intend to follow up with pics/video of it in use when time allows, as well as questions on future mods and changes. Photobucket has pretty much destroyed all of the good CC01 threads, so maybe we can make a new one that covers everything. We'll discuss the goods, the bads, what to mod, and what not to mod. Feel free to post pics of your CC01 mods or just show off your CC01 in general. Pics of my build: I added a 65T RC 4WD Crawler motor. Following the advice of several YT videos, I took out the slack in the rear diff using bushings and a washer. Also, both front and rear diff are locked. I locked the front diff using the method where you add an extra spider gear. I used AW Grease to seal up the rear diff and front gear covers. The only change I have made to the suspension so far is that I added the Stroke Extension Kit. Body is all trimmed up. I may remove the front bumper in the future. I can see how it could get hung up on obstacles, and I also can now see why everyone cuts the front brick. Showing a bit of articulation. I didn't take any pics of the electronics, but I am using the Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 Waterproof ESC. I have a spare receiver box from a TT02B that I sealed up my receiver in. I'll be smearing a light coat of clear silicone around the seams of the receiver box just to make sure water doesn't get in. The body is painted. While painting it, I also painted a new body for my M06 chassis. Stickers are complete. Some pics from the back yard. My next question pertains to springs/shocks. Would longer dampers give me more height, or would I be better off going with the Tamiya barrel springs for better choice of spring rate?
  5. Dizzydad1

    Poss DB01 build

    Ok guys and gals, I'm after some advice... I'm looking to get back into the hobby after 20years.. In that time I've owned a Dark Impact and a TT-01 as toys.. But now I want to get back running something that can take a bash, run across multiple surfaces and has a wide range of hopups.. So things to consider, Cost, I'm not made of money.. No great funds to outlay in the first instance. Hop ups, I'd like something I can build, take apart, re build, modify, make fun. Durability, I have kids who will want to play. Ability, I want to run across various surfaces, mainly grass and mud, but the odd carpark and Tarmac'd area will be seen too Must run electric, the noise of the Nitro's/petrol will drive me mad. A buggy not a car, I had more fun with the Dark Impact than the TT-01. Not a beginners buggy. With those in mind I looked at buggy's and settled on the DB-01.. Reading reviews it seems the next step up from the Dark Impact without the high initial costs of the TRF or high end buggy's.. I'm likely to crash.. So to the DB-01... Looking around second am hand models seem few and far between, so looking at new kits, £220 ish.. Ok not to bad, but knowing I want to fully hop up, and run brushless and potentially LiPos my next question is don't look for a DB-01, DB-01R, DB-01RR, DB-01RRR or buy all the parts separately taking my time building up my car, know it inside and out and have exactly the set up I want without a pile of unused plastic parts and empty Hop up wrappers.. I'm not worried about having a running car over night, but want to enjoy the build, setting up, tweaking and then running and doing it all over again! What's everybody's opinion.. Have I gone down the wrong route with the DB-01? Am I coming at the whole thing wrong? Have I missed something out? Over to you!
  6. Hi All, I*m new here, treat me nice ;-) I've bought a Bruiser off eBay, with the idea being to restore and re-build where necessary. I work on computers every day, so this is a great way for me to work with my hands and get my mind away from computers and screens! I bought it as a semit-complete kit - so the chassis & running gear are are all there, with working electrics, but the body needs to be completed, and there are two seemingly serious issues to deal with before the truck can run... But, the last time I worked on an RC car was about 30 years ago and it was fleeting - when I was a kid this was the thing I wanted to do but my parents couldn't afford for me to do, so it was only with a few friends once or twice! So basically I'm new to this, and have probably bitten off a bit more than I should to start with. [To remedy that, I've bought a bunch of Grasshoppers off ebay too, which I'm going to work on as well - time to satisfaction much faster!] So I have some questions which I hope the folks here can help with: 1) slop on the front axle? When I put on the wheels, there was a bit of slop which I put down to tightening. Now that I've spent more time on the truck, I can see that the hub shafts are moving around in the knuckles too much. More tightening, or is this normal? What to do? 2) what should it sound like? What should a good motor + running gear sound like when it's running - what are the warning signs for more grease / bad lubrication / problems / etc etc? 3) shifting the tranny? This thread from Nitomor is excellent, and it's highlighted how important it is to get the shifting right. My one only shifts into 4wd drive if I really push the rod as far as it can go manually with my fingers, certainly can't do it with the servo alone - so how do I adjust this so that the servo can do it for me? What are the measurements I should be watching out for? 4) what servos to use? Again, the thread from Nitomor is great for inspiration! Would metal gear servos be good as a matter of course? What ones are recommended? Which is tougher on the servo - direction (left / right) or shifting the tranny? I'm in the UK, so any suggestions on what to get would be appreciated. Could follow Nitomor exactly, but then sounds like his Bruiser is mostly for the shelf, so wonder if there are better options? Also, which servo saver? Mine has new white circular ones on the tranny servo. 5) what transmitter to use? I can get the transmitter to shift into the 2wd gears no problem, but moving the rod far enough back to switch into 4wd reliably, then keep it there, seems to be beyond the transmitter / servo combination. Is there a way to tune this I'm missing? Again related to the servo question - seems like using a gate on the transmitter is a bit of a hack if you can use a switch instead? Seems like if the switch can do Neutral, Left & Right, then you've got the 3 speed shifting you need? If so, which transmitter is recommended? Would any 6 or 7 channel transmitter within budget work, or are there specific models only? Nitomor is using the Futaba FF7, and there is a guy who posted a build using a Carson tx - so what should I be looking for? Lastly, I'm not building this for the shelf - this is being built to run around with my kids. I'm hoping to hop on a GoPro or similar so that I can take photos of my kids running around without having to actually keep up with them ;-) So when answering please bear that in mind - I'm not looking for beauty or perfect lines, mainly something that will last and will be bomb-proof, much like my real life 1:1 Bruiser! Cool, over to you guys, thanks in advance!
  7. Currently building a re re Super Hot Shot and chose the hobbywing 1060 esc for its built in LIPO fail safe and a few other things it odes better than the stock esc in the kit. When installing though the power switch has a really short lead and doesn't seem to reach the on off switch location on the super hot shot body, which I presume is the same location as for the hot shot, for those that may have installed in a hot shot. Also in the kit we're meant to place screws down through the body via pre-drilled holes, into the switch. The 1060's pre-wired switch is smaller than the stock Tamiya one and doesn't have holes to receive these screws. With that said, what's the recommended mounting solution for the power switch ? Currently I have it temporarily serve taped under the access panel, which is a pain as I have to take the body off each time to turn the car on. Any ideas or examples greatly appreciated.
  8. Hi everyone, Further to a recent thread, here are some pics of my Wild One that I finally got painted and 99% done. I still have to paint and install the driver but aside from that, the exterior is done. I hope you like them!
  9. Hi all, I'm returning to a fun hobby and are in the middle of building a re-issue Wild One and have a couple of questions that I hope someone out there can help me with: 1) I have some aftermarket wheels that have a large, six-sided hub pattern, so I ordered some wheel adapters based on some information provided on another forum. While the adapters for the rear worked great, the front are not correct. The problem is that the front axles are just spindles and do not have an option for the small metal tube that runs through the rear axle - which the adapters use to lock onto the axle. Is it supposed to be like that for the front wheels? Or am I just supposed to bolt up the rims to the existing spindles? 2) What is the best method to trim the edges from the front bumper? As it looks like my aftermarket wheels are going to rub.... 3) I have a ESC and 10T 3500 brushless engine ( I think it was the "EZ-RUN" set). Is a 3S lipo a good match for that ESC/engine combination? 4) Is there any way to not use the 4xAA battery pack (which I believe powers the receiver) and still have it function correctly? 5) There is a small switch in the ESC that is connected by a thin wire - what is that for? Is there a way to override that and have it run on the receiver power? Any help would be much appreciated and I'll be sure to post pics of the build when it's done (att. is a mock up so far)! Thanks in advance!
  10. This is going to be a really slow build as I don't have any paint yet and might have to wait a little while until I order some. ( when I persuade the Mrs, lol) I know this model has taken some flack on the site but when I saw it in Fusion hobbies for £119 UK pounds, I couldn't resist. I have always liked Vw's and this is officially licensed by Volkswagen. No blisters here. At this point, I asked the Mrs if she wanted to sniff the tyres, she did so after that I asked her if she wanted to sniff my willy. she didn't do that. Nice details on this shell. I have marked out the cut lines very roughly but it makes it easier to see. That's it for now, I might get some building done tonight but I am waiting for the rest of the bearings that have been ordered, might be here tomorrow.