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Found 51 results

  1. Another new member here. I'm not the first person to build a Tamiya Jeep and make it look like one from Jurassic Park, but I'd like to think I'll take mine further than most people. I have been a Jurassic Park fan since it came out, but I could never justify getting a real Jeep (at least not yet). I saw someone in town with their own real replica and had to do something about it. I've been looking for an out of production Jeep Wrangler to convert on eBay. Then I finally found one with plenty of hop-ups already included. Here is what I'm starting with off of eBay. I plan on re-creating Jeep #12 with as much of the screen accurate parts that I can. This includes the rims, soft top, doors, lightbar, wench and rear amber lights as well as the basic stuff like the paint scheme. I'm going to 3D print most of the parts and attempt to put LEDs in all the lights. Wiring fun: I've started deconstructing the body and testing out the lighting.
  2. Removed from a recent jeep wrangler project Not needed, in great condition CC-01 2x alloy hubs 2x alloy front arms Alloy front chassis shield Alloy C5 part Includes shaft and e clips All for £20 Inc UK shipping
  3. As can be seen currently on the main page, just added to my showroom. The body only part inc. wing mirrors, tyre cover etc of my recently acquired jeep wrangler project. I want to repaint it but the wood effect has been done to a high standard and it would be a shame to strip it. So I'm offering it for sale at £50 plus shipping to cover the cost of a replacement shell. Plus as can be seen in the showroom pictures I'm willing to part with the MSC,resistor,acoms receiver and two as-12 servos which won't be needed in the rebuild. I'd sell for £20 plus shipping, untested but looks in superb condition and sold to me as new , hardly ran https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=138727&id=2692
  4. This is my first topic on the forum so hope I get it right I would really like some help or at least your opinions to help me decide which colour of tarp suits my Unimog best. Can make several but I'd like to limit it to 2 maximum. I just threw them over, it's only about the colours matching for now. Other colours in the next post.
  5. I'll start by declaring that there's something wrong with me. I've had one of those moments where I've become obsessed with a vehicle that isn't already made in the form of R/C. This one: The plan is to use a CC01 as the chassis platform. The problem is that as far as I know there's no one who makes a 1988 Nissan hardbody (uh..hard body) in 1/10th scale. I've managed to find a (close enough) 3D render of the truck online, with the intention of having it 3D printed, but I was advised by someone more knowledgeable, that even with the model, there'd be plenty of work to be done before it's printed. I've also got a bunch of 1/14..? scale Tyco bandit bodies that I've been thinking of 3D scanning and then chopping out the extra cab, but I really have no skill at all (or experience) in 3D modelling or scanning so I'm open to any other suggestions, or offers or what have you, to get this darned thing built and off my "I wonder if I could make that" list.
  6. Just saw this on Tamiyablog. https://tamiyablog.com/2019/08/the-time-has-finally-come-for-a-new-cross-country-chassis-tamiya-58675-1-10-mercedes-benz-g-500-on-cc-02-chassis/ Love the CC-01 Land Rover, may get one at some point. Many CC-01 owners here?
  7. Seriously love this thing. It's nowhere near something like an SCX10 or a TRX4 in terms of performance, but it has what those lack, which is an abundance of realism. Drove over these rocks very much like a real overlanding truck
  8. An idea came to me a week or two ago that the CC01 could be a good donor for a diminutive 6x6 build. I had originally planned to do a 6x6 conversion on my GMade BOM, but I love it enough as it is (there's a Peter Sellers film about that), and ultimately I'll try to build a proper capable 6x6 from an Element Enduro builder's kit that I picked up a couple of weeks ago. But the CC01 still seems like a good idea for a quicker project. This thread is really just an open forum for me to jot some ideas down and perhaps get some feedback or alternative perspectives before I start making irreversible changes to my chassis. I actually have a couple of spare CC01 chassis lying around so it wouldn't cost much to get started on this, although I'll have to budget for some appropriate wheels and tyres somewhere down the line. Ideas Something smaller. Possibly the front half of an old Blackfoot body with a flatbed. Small tyres. Smaller than stock CC01, possibly similar diameter to the Landfreeder tyres, but with a wider, more balloon appearance. Possibly 1.55 or 1.7 inch. TLT wheel/tyre combo is a possibility but tyres are a bit too wide and not quite scale enough. I could narrow them, which would save a fortune as I have loads of TLT wheel and tyre sets lying around. Not going for a rock crawler look, more of an Icelandic balloon tyre rig - the concept being to spread the weight so it doesn't sink into snow. I've been watching the Netflix series Katla recently and there's a mid-90s F150 or similar with a flatbed and 6x6 conversion, wearing little balloon tyres. Transfer box to split the transmission output into two. I actually have a transfer box already, so no additional expense. Rear axle will be flipped upside down because drive is reversed out of the transfer box. Should reduce torque twist. It doesn't seem possible to make a pass-thru out of two CC01 axle cases. I briefly considered using TLT axles (it looks quite simple to make a TLT with a pass-thru using two input halves screwed together) but these are getting thin on the ground, plus I'm not sure the FDR is the same as the CC01, which would cause issues with the CC01 front axle. Probably 4-linked rear suspension. I'm not going for massive articulation so I can deal with short links. I thought about walking beam but on an RC with low weight and high torque this can make the middle axle lift off the ground, which just looks plain silly and totally voids the point of having 6 wheel drive. I might anchor the links to a common mount between the axles (like the big-rigs) to maintain symmetrical axle movement. I have seen photos of a "walking shock mount" arrangement, where the axles are 4-linked but the shock tops are bolted to a walking beam. This means as one axle rises the shocks compress the other axle down. In my head, this seems to solve the dilemma of the walking beam - there is still a mechanical transfer of force from a compressing axle into the opposite axle (with 4-links and independent shock mounts, if one axle is lifted by an obstacle it unloads the other axle, just like on an independently-sprung axle if one wheel is compressed the opposite wheel is unloaded, hence why solid axles are better on crawlers). In my head, I can't see that the torque will cause the middle axle to unload, since the rear axle is rotationally tied to the entire chassis, so it will try to lift the entire chassis. If it succeeds (i.e. if it's got enough torque and traction to lift the front of the truck), the rear axle suspension will compress but this will transfer the force into the middle axle - so it seems to be a best-of-all-worlds solution... Short wheelbase. The TRX-6 and SCX10 6x6 models are very long, but I want something shorter. The middle axle will probably be the same as a stock SWB CC01, or maybe shorter, depending on how well the body fits. Chopped brick and aftermarket steering, possibly my own custom design this time. Retain IFS. This is a dillemical one, for me. Would anyone build a 1:1 6x6 with IFS? It doesn't seem logical that you'd go to all the effort of building a 6x6 truck but not fit a solid front axle. But that's a bit mod for a CC01 and requires a whole load of additional thought. I want the truck to be low and compact, so I don't think a solid front axle will ever work. Besides, once I've started doing that I'll be looking at a different transmission and very little of the original chassis, so it wouldn't really be a CC01. And at that point I'm beyond needing to stick with CC01 rear axles either, I could go TLT or Maverick Scout all round, and then it's not a CC01 at all. So - who thinks this is a great idea? Who think it's pointless? Who thinks I should forget it and just get on with the Enduro build? Who has some neat suggestions to make about axles, transfer cases, shaft routing, 1:1 vehicle inspiration, wheel and tyre options..?
  9. Rather than have individual 'build' threads for all of my CC cars I thought I would start one thread and document everything (mainly cos many are already built and are just being tinkered with). I have a bit of a problem with acquiring CC01s, and most recently a CC02. I very rarely drive my models as I have a young family and struggle to find the time, but I like to mess about with them in the evenings when I get a chance. Ultimately I will use them a lot more, so it's important to me knowing that they will work when I eventually get the time! So first up I have my most completed model; a Pajero Metaltop Wide: As lovely as those wheels look, they rub like anybody's business when you try to run this one. I also have to run very stiff suspension since this body is incredibly heavy - notice the RCModelex cage / roof rack combo. This CC01 looks great on the shelf, but I really want to run this bodyshell, especially since it already has some 'road rash' marks from a former life so it isn't exactly shelf-queen worthy. It sat in this state for about 18 months (where does time go?) until I found some cheap beadlock wheels and tyres from the Far East and the dimensions worked on paper. They arrived and I think they look awesome: So now we don't have any rubbing issues! Yay. But the weakness was the chassis itself; despite throwing a lot of money at upgrades. I always wanted an MST CMX or CFX ladder-frame chassis for this Pajero, but I never had the spare cash. Such a huge amount of time went past that Tamiya eventually caught-up and released their own ladder-frame chassis - the CC02. So this was promptly bought and built, after I sold off some of my TA03 collection. And my beautiful Fast and Furious Supra build- Gone but not forgotten! Anyway; the CC02 comes with the Mercedes G500 lexan bodyshell and 267mm wheelbase. I built it to this spec in the above images, but I want the G500 to go with a certain 'theme' I have behind some of my other builds, so the bodyshell has been temporarily put on hold whilst I turn my attention to shortening the CC02 to the 242mm Pajero Wheelbase. This is as far as I got with this particular car for now - I'm waiting on some Hard-body mounts for the CC02 to make their way over from China - it could be a while! Next up I have my long-standing CC01 Jeep Wrangler Jurassic Park build. I'll post that separately below as it's been "In progress" for over 2 years now!
  10. Just thinning down my nib collection slightly to free up some cash, all in superb condition.... PayPal gift please, prices Inc free UK shipping BUILT MODELS Isuzu Mu x cc-01 black chrome new built, never run £130 ARTR needs tx and batteries comes with tamiya teu-105bk ESC w/ traxxas battery connector and spektrum sr3100 receiver Steel pinion, ball bearings, tamiya CR tuned 35t motor, new servo, barrel springs, ball connector dust foam covers and grey CVA oil shocks Farm King WR-02G, was a brand new xb model when I got it. £95 ARTR needs tx and batteries Stripped to install ball bearings and steel pinion, added green comical buggy longer arms for a touch more stability comes with tamiya CVA oil shocks, tamiya teu-105bk esc w/ traxxas battery connector and spektrum dsm2 compatible receiver Very clean condition, run on tarmac only, body has a blob of shoo goo to protect it while wheeling! BOTH SOLD
  11. This is my first build-thread here, and I hope to pick up a few pointers along the way. I'm mostly an on-road guy, but since I sold my High Lift (too much car, it sat on the shelf far too much) I'd been wanting a car that could go with me on walks. Most people get a dog, I get an RC car. Anyway, since building a CC01 is something you've all seen a million times I'll try to focus on the little touches I'm putting in. No 2 CCs are ever built quite the same, and that's what makes them interesting. Mine will be mostly stock, as I want to get a feeling for how this car works before going overboard on the aftermarket-scene for these off-roaders. While I was waiting for parts to arrive, I started out with the body. I've done exactly one hard body before (my Hilux), but it never quite looked as I had hoped. Between then and now I have built a few plastic model kits, and so I hoped for a better outcome with the Mitsu. I've painted it two-tone, black on silver. It's not exactly a factory color (1:1 Pajero's were all-black, the silver underside was never available with that color), but hey, they're model cars and so we get to paint them as we please. First color to go on, silver (I'm still amazed at how well and smooth the last wet coat went on). This is 3 coats, with 2000 grit wetsanding in between them: The next coat was metallic black. I masked off the silver parts and shot TS40 over it. Metallic is always a bit more difficult to get to lay down nice and smooth, so more wetsanding was required. The masking was removed, and the body was given one final wetsanding with 2000 grit before laying on 3 coats of clear. The end result still isn't as shiny as I'd like it to be, but for a runner it's most satisfactory:
  12. For sale, my CC01 Pajero And she’s off to a new owner! II've owned this thing for 5 years now, and have used it quite a lot on walks all over the local forests. But, it's time to move on, and free up space and money for other things. (RC things, don't worry!) It's in good shape, and the box is sharp with the original shrink wrap protecting the art work. It comes ARTR, all you need to do is add your own 3ch receiver + NiMH pack with Tamiya plug. I'm including the ESC, servo, and LED controller in the sale. Price? I'm thinking €250/ 220 UK Pounds / $300. Or best offer, obviously. I'm open to offers, so shoot me a message. Shipping to most European countries (+UK) is around €30. Contact me for exact shipping rates. The build thread can be found HERE, but it's a little out of date. 49490 Mitsubishi Pajero Metaltop wide Full ball bearings, obviously Steel pinion. Junfac 4-link rear suspension (makes ALL the difference to the handling!) Junfac steel skid plate Yeah Racing steering set (brand new!) Amazon-special 25KG Waterproof steering servo. Works well! Yeah Racing universals, and I removed the steering stops so you get a nice tight turning radius. 55t RC4WD Crawler motor. Epic run times and more than enough torque! Tamiya TT02 receiver box in the rear Hobbywing QR1060WP ESC with custom power lead to the.... ...Tamiya TLU01 LED controller with full lights, yes that includes... ... Loops Model complete light bucket set front and rear. See pictures. Off-brand crawler tires on Tamiya Land Cruiser wheels painted black. Original wheels and tires are included. Custom license plate light. Again, see pictures. Custom 3rd channel switch to turn the lights off and on remotely from a free channel on your radio Custom brass tow hitch receiver. Meant to build a trailer for it, but it never happened so it's never seen any load behind it. Custom license plates. Are glued on with school glue, so should pull right off without damage. Orginal license plates are still on the decal sheet, obviously. Original box with inserts, all the leftover plastic bits, unused decal sheet, and all the header cards of the included hopups A bit of sound deadening on the roof. Is stuck in with dual sided sticky tape, and will easily pull out. (I walk in quiet areas and wanted to muffle the sound a bit) So what are the flaws? Well, the chassis has some usage marks here and there, and the body has a few nicks and scratches from usage. No splits, no cracks, just paint missing here and there. The worst one is on the door. See pictures below.
  13. This is yet another old project from the back of the shelf. I probably started a build thread about this way back when but I expect all my photos were stored in the Bucket of Photos back before I threw my teddies out the pram over the Great Photobucket Ransom, so here it is afresh, courtesy of TCPhotos. This one isn't actually being built by me, it's being built by Adam and Nigel, who run a custom workshop called SCRAPSpeed. Since this one is from the archives, I'll start right at the beginning. It was back on 4th May 2014 - 6 years ago almost to the day, if you can believe that - when I popped over to see my friends Adam and Nigel at their workshop. I happened to notice that had a stripped out 9th gen F150 sitting on the shop floor. I asked if it was for a customer, but Adam shook his head and rolled his eyes at Nigel, who was fabricating something out of aluminium at the back of the shop. "He brought it back from the swap meet last week." He said. "We're going to lift the body and do a bit of off-roading." The shell looked like new, and was in a fresh coat of white primer. Underneath was a fairly standard chassis with some mild steering upgrades and the usual independent front, live rear that you find on these Fords. I took a look at the brackets that Nigel was fabricating. He told me they were so he could 4-link the rear end, apparently a better set-up than stock. I hung around while he got them fitted. I don't know much about these F150s but that sure looks better than what was on there before.
  14. Decided to blog my build here instead. Some hardware for the CC01 and internally shim shim shim the axles for slops!
  15. This is something I've been meaning to do for a long, long time, and now that the days are getting shorter, the weather is getting colder, I've got less spare time and absolutely no money, I figured it was just the right time to embark on an expensive, time-consuming outdoor project. The premise is simple. Take two of Tamiya's much-loved CC01 chassis, set them up in identical trim, then pit them against one another in a series of challenges. Where possible, Hopup can only be improved by fitting commercially-available hopups, and Homebrew can only be improved with home-made modifications. Beyond that, no holds are barred! To set a level playing field, both chassis have been built with full bearings, shimmed rear axles and GPM steering kits. Homebrew actually has steering arm turnbuckles, but that's just because they were already attached to the GPM steering kit when I took it out of my parts box and doesn't represent any cheating on Homebrew's behalf. Hopup is identical apart from the turnbuckes. Both rigs run the same steel pinion, Alturn AAS-750MG high-torque servo and Hobbywin Quickrun 1080 crawler speedo. Homebrew runs an ORX receiver off my trusty Spektrum DX3C transmitter and Hopup uses a 6ch Turnigy stick combo (primarily because that's the only spare radio I have). Homebrew is the white rig on the left, Hopup is the grey one on the right.
  16. Hello! Thought I’d put a post up for anyone interested. Probably many CC 01’s been built on here, but not seen many Defenders so far? Just as background, this is my first build for almost 30 years!, and first time building a Tamiya RC. I’d build up a few Kyosho RC cars as a kid, including a Raider. I’d also had a Tomy Intruder, which was a really nice RC car and look like they command a fair bit of money nowadays and so wish I’d kept it. As with many people I expect, I fancied something to do during lockdown. I think I’d spotted the Defender kit in a magazine and so fancied something to build and that I could drive pretty much anywhere, as there’s not anywhere near with a large area of tarmac for road based kits. So after a short wait the kit arrived. After unboxing everything, was impressed by the detailed build instructions and the way everything is In labelled bags so you know where to find all the parts. Unfortunately I was to enthusiastic to get on with the build to take too many pictures! The kit was kept standard as I was impressed that you get a set of Oil shocks etc included. Only non standard item was to order a set of ball bearings half way through the build which meant I had to disassemble parts half way through to fit those. finished chassis which when I gave a first test drive was a little puzzled about why reverse didn’t work properly, but then realising that’s how the Tamiya esc is meant to work! First fitting of body shell. The only non standard thing I wanted to do was with the colour. I’d seen a defender online, picture below, and really loved the colour. Apparently it is called ‘Keswick Green’, and as I couldn’t find a close match with polycarbonate paints, I tried to find a match with the Vallejo range of paints which I’d previously used for a model plane I’d built. This meant I’d have to airbrush the paint, and I was also a little concerned that the paint wouldn’t adhere to the shell as it’s water based. After giving the inside of the shell a rub with a very fine paint prep pad and then a wash with detergent and fitting window masks (new to me!), I gave the inside a dusting of paint from my airbrush. After several coats of green, and a finishing coat of grey Vallejo primer, the shell was finished. Not an exact match to the Keswick green, but happy enough with the colour. The paint also hardened off nicely and seems pretty abrasion resistant. And finished (nearly), after nearly a whole day fitting stickers (love the detail and quality of the Tamiya stickers) which luckily I enjoy fitting! Did spend a while making up extra LEDs from eBay to fit, but ultimately I think I’d just have stuck to the ones that come with the kit now. Also decided to add an eBay special lightbar. Wasn’t expecting it to be that bright but was surprised how effective it is! Had also ordered a RC controlled switch harness, but unfortunately the output is lower than from the Receiver and so dulls the light output. Close up of custom Ali brackets to fit the bar as the originals were a bit large. It’s been great fun to drive so far. Surprising how well it handles most stuff, and is actually pretty quick! Perhaps a bit hard to control at low speeds and so hard to control over rough terrain. Think I will keep standard for now. Had thought of converting to Lipo, but the run time of the Nimh packs seems a lot better nowadays? Perhaps a brushless motor for the future? Now have a taste for RC Cars again, so new project soon..
  17. https://imgur.com/a/ecBW9zj Took my new built CC-01 on a bash in the local wood ,my amarok is stock with the exception of a brushless 13.5T motor and water proof esc, didn't lock the diffs and honestly this climbed some serious obsticles ,better infact than me (slippery), yes it goes like a stabbed rat and there are some cogging issues at launch but overall im well pleased with it. So i know im breaking the taboo with the motor ,but i consider it more "extreme offroad" than crawler and on tarmac it practically skims the ground, grinning like a loon at 6:30am in an abandonded swimming baths car park ,what could possibly go wrong!!.
  18. So a New Year brings new changes. I haven't done as much RC building etc the last couple of years as I would have wanted (gee, that sounds almost like a confession!). This year I've managed to start off with a much more positive. As I have a number of projects, I thought it would be better to do one thread than to start lots of smaller threads that aren't updated regularly. With that I will start off with my CC01 build. I bought this one just over a year ago second had. Both the body and the chassis had been cut up. But at least it worked (and I got it cheap). So the before pics.
  19. Hi all, I just recently picked up a CC01 kit (Isuzu Mu Black Metallic). This is my first CC01... I can’t wait to play with the full time 4 wheel drive, and from what I’ve been reading, it’s a tinkerers dream, with the ability to do a lot of mods to it. However, I’d like clarification on two things: 1.) Locking the rear and/or front diff: what situations have come up where it was a good decision to lock the diffs? I’ve read it’s good to lock them if you need more power. But what circumstances would make it a good idea to do it? Is it just for getting better traction? My intention is more for trail riding and less climbing, so I don’t know how I could tell if locking them would be of any benefit 2.) Motor speed / turns: From what I’m reading, it’s preferable to use a motor with turns of 27 or higher. What is the main reason behind this? I’m used to putting the fastest possible motor in a rig, and even now have a Super Hornet, Fighting Buggy, Blackfoot, and Mud Blaster II all with brushed and brushless motors with turns of 15 or less. So is this truck more of a leisure ride type of vehicle, or is it a capable machine that if I wanted to, I could throw a 12 or 15t brushless motor in it and tear up some trails?
  20. Hello, I am here to share a new cost effective way to increase suspension travel on the CC01 Chassis. The has been proven to be well designed and to last long. Comes with everything you need to install even spare parts included! Its a fraction of the cost of any of the TAMIYA CC01 Extension Link Kits with 100% of the functionality! https://www.ebay.com/itm/233585123592
  21. My light runner Pajero Lowrider cc01 is up for sale UK based. Price in UK is £90 + shipping Great condition, used only on dry tarmac Artr, Inc ESC and spectrum receiver Please see showroom for pictures or PM your email for direct pictures. PayPal gift please
  22. Between 1977 & 83 those of us of a certain age were glued to the tv on a Satuday evening watching Baker and Poncherello tracking down the baddies and doing good deeds, whilst speeding around on Kawasaki 900/1000 bikes (Changed from 900 to 1000 for season 3 onwards) Sgt. Joseph Getraer their boss sometimes rode a bike but often used some other form of "black & white". Im not sure if he ever drove a Jeep but if he did it would been a CJ rather than a YJ and would have looked a bit like this My Plan is to alter a wrangler shell using shapeways parts to produce my own version. The colourway will be slightly different from this. Mine is going to be all black with white doors and non bling wheels!!! It will be driven by a laid back Sgt in a cowboy hat. I have ordered some flashing lights from China which are on their way. Not sure if they are right so may have to search further. Any way I have the major components so I can start: Rather than use the Tamiya glass which I beleive is tinted I'm using Loops glazing set along with their dash and wipers. First thing is to cut up a brand new Wrangler body to replace the bonnet and the grill Watch this space!!!!
  23. I am thinking of re bodying my CC01 Defender and fancy chopping the roof of a Wrangler. Question is are they the same wheelbase or will I need to alter the rear end?
  24. I figured I'd try something simple for my first 3D printing project. I've done a little bit of amateur vector graphics before (I do my own designs for my race cars) but never played with CAD. This turned out to be the perfect project to get me started and help me streamline my workflow. So, what is it? Well, recently I got yet another CC01 with yet another missing battery clip. Seriously, what do people do with these clips?? Why is it every time I buy a CC01 or similar it comes without the battery clip..?? As I was about to get started with the design, I realised I could go a step further. Everybody knows the problem with CC01s and the like is that the stock battery clip won't fit over modern LiPos. So I figured I'd make an offset clip that would work. That isn't this design. If that's what you want, tag me in a reply here and I'll see if I can be bothered to modify this design. The reason I didn't build that is because I have some Core RC batteries that are the same size as Tamiya stick packs. They fit perfectly in everything. So, no need to make an offset clip. However, one of my pet hates with the CC01 clip is that the battery lead always pokes into the lexan and distorts the shell. Seriously, there's no point in having a fine-looking body if it's all twisted by the battery, so, I thought I'd make a clip with an offset leg that will hold the wire back out of the way. I went through half a dozen iterations and uncountable test prints before I ended up with a serviceable product, and here it is: Three successful prints. OK, one of them has a slight distortion in the clippy leg, not sure why, my guess is it twisted on its supports as all the others are OK. No bother, it's perfectly serviceable like that. Battery fitted, leads held back out of the way. Here you can see the clip doing its thang. Now that I know a bit more about the properties of my resin, I think I could have made the legs thinner. As it is, it just about touches the shell, but not as bad as the stock wires did. Also I'm using a large R-clip which touches the shell - a smaller one would be better. And you can see that, due to the mounting holes in the chassis being a bit short, there is some twist in the clip - it could be better, but exactly how to make it so, I don't really know. If you want to make one of these, you can download the file from here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3879684 If you want to use this with longer LiPos, you should be able to trim 1-3mm off the back of the clip. Remember to leave the locating lugs full width otherwise the clip will twist and touch your shell. Pic above is of a Land Cruiser body. I'm not sure how much clearance there will be on other bodies. Bonus pic - some test prints hanging off my build plate:
  25. Today I got the message I like to see. Which means next week I'll hopefully be building my CC01. I've got a few hop-ups ready to go but thought I'd better get some expertise before I start. I ordered the Unimog 406 but I'll be building it with my Bronco body that I completed a year ago: I bought a Unimog because it was about $75NZD cheaper than buying a Defender locally and came with the correct body mount parts and wheelbase needed for the Bronco. I would've just bought a CC01 Bronco but I could only get an XB version locally and it would cost additional import fees for something that was about $10NZD over the allowed limit. I've got a bearing set, Yeah Racing steering kit, the CC01 barrel spring set, and some cheap 96mm tyres. I'll also be running a Hobbywing 1060 ESC and the stock motor for now. I've read a few builds and I think I've got the necessary basics covered. I'll do the extra bushing in the rear axle trick. People mention using threaded M3 screws and nuts on the gearbox cover but haven't seen it done. I'm assuming it's as simple as drilling through the holes for part A3 then securing it with the screws? I haven't got any spare M3 screws to use at the moment though. Taking the square edge off the stock rear arms looks simple enough. I looked into a GRU vs high turn motor and I think I'll end up putting in a cheap 60-80T motor. Getting a GPM rear link kit, Tamiya aluminium dampers and stroke extension look like good upgrades, but I'll see how much I like the chassis first. I need a steel pinion and I've seen the C-Hub mod to get more steering lock with some front CVDs. I haven't got a servo yet but I was looking at the Savox 0251MG. Do their "larger standard" servos fit? The local shop doesn't have one in stock so I may get a Savox 0252MG if I'm feeling impatient anyway. I'm probably using the LED kit in my drifter instead of this kit so no worries there. The question now is: What else do I need to know?
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