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Found 36 results

  1. Just saw this on Tamiyablog. https://tamiyablog.com/2019/08/the-time-has-finally-come-for-a-new-cross-country-chassis-tamiya-58675-1-10-mercedes-benz-g-500-on-cc-02-chassis/ Love the CC-01 Land Rover, may get one at some point. Many CC-01 owners here?
  2. Another new member here. I'm not the first person to build a Tamiya Jeep and make it look like one from Jurassic Park, but I'd like to think I'll take mine further than most people. I have been a Jurassic Park fan since it came out, but I could never justify getting a real Jeep (at least not yet). I saw someone in town with their own real replica and had to do something about it. I've been looking for an out of production Jeep Wrangler to convert on eBay. Then I finally found one with plenty of hop-ups already included. Here is what I'm starting with off of eBay. I plan on re-creating Jeep #12 with as much of the screen accurate parts that I can. This includes the rims, soft top, doors, lightbar, wench and rear amber lights as well as the basic stuff like the paint scheme. I'm going to 3D print most of the parts and attempt to put LEDs in all the lights. Wiring fun: I've started deconstructing the body and testing out the lighting.
  3. Between 1977 & 83 those of us of a certain age were glued to the tv on a Satuday evening watching Baker and Poncherello tracking down the baddies and doing good deeds, whilst speeding around on Kawasaki 900/1000 bikes (Changed from 900 to 1000 for season 3 onwards) Sgt. Joseph Getraer their boss sometimes rode a bike but often used some other form of "black & white". Im not sure if he ever drove a Jeep but if he did it would been a CJ rather than a YJ and would have looked a bit like this My Plan is to alter a wrangler shell using shapeways parts to produce my own version. The colourway will be slightly different from this. Mine is going to be all black with white doors and non bling wheels!!! It will be driven by a laid back Sgt in a cowboy hat. I have ordered some flashing lights from China which are on their way. Not sure if they are right so may have to search further. Any way I have the major components so I can start: Rather than use the Tamiya glass which I beleive is tinted I'm using Loops glazing set along with their dash and wipers. First thing is to cut up a brand new Wrangler body to replace the bonnet and the grill Watch this space!!!!
  4. I am thinking of re bodying my CC01 Defender and fancy chopping the roof of a Wrangler. Question is are they the same wheelbase or will I need to alter the rear end?
  5. I figured I'd try something simple for my first 3D printing project. I've done a little bit of amateur vector graphics before (I do my own designs for my race cars) but never played with CAD. This turned out to be the perfect project to get me started and help me streamline my workflow. So, what is it? Well, recently I got yet another CC01 with yet another missing battery clip. Seriously, what do people do with these clips?? Why is it every time I buy a CC01 or similar it comes without the battery clip..?? As I was about to get started with the design, I realised I could go a step further. Everybody knows the problem with CC01s and the like is that the stock battery clip won't fit over modern LiPos. So I figured I'd make an offset clip that would work. That isn't this design. If that's what you want, tag me in a reply here and I'll see if I can be bothered to modify this design. The reason I didn't build that is because I have some Core RC batteries that are the same size as Tamiya stick packs. They fit perfectly in everything. So, no need to make an offset clip. However, one of my pet hates with the CC01 clip is that the battery lead always pokes into the lexan and distorts the shell. Seriously, there's no point in having a fine-looking body if it's all twisted by the battery, so, I thought I'd make a clip with an offset leg that will hold the wire back out of the way. I went through half a dozen iterations and uncountable test prints before I ended up with a serviceable product, and here it is: Three successful prints. OK, one of them has a slight distortion in the clippy leg, not sure why, my guess is it twisted on its supports as all the others are OK. No bother, it's perfectly serviceable like that. Battery fitted, leads held back out of the way. Here you can see the clip doing its thang. Now that I know a bit more about the properties of my resin, I think I could have made the legs thinner. As it is, it just about touches the shell, but not as bad as the stock wires did. Also I'm using a large R-clip which touches the shell - a smaller one would be better. And you can see that, due to the mounting holes in the chassis being a bit short, there is some twist in the clip - it could be better, but exactly how to make it so, I don't really know. If you want to make one of these, you can download the file from here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3879684 If you want to use this with longer LiPos, you should be able to trim 1-3mm off the back of the clip. Remember to leave the locating lugs full width otherwise the clip will twist and touch your shell. Pic above is of a Land Cruiser body. I'm not sure how much clearance there will be on other bodies. Bonus pic - some test prints hanging off my build plate:
  6. This is my first build-thread here, and I hope to pick up a few pointers along the way. I'm mostly an on-road guy, but since I sold my High Lift (too much car, it sat on the shelf far too much) I'd been wanting a car that could go with me on walks. Most people get a dog, I get an RC car. Anyway, since building a CC01 is something you've all seen a million times I'll try to focus on the little touches I'm putting in. No 2 CCs are ever built quite the same, and that's what makes them interesting. Mine will be mostly stock, as I want to get a feeling for how this car works before going overboard on the aftermarket-scene for these off-roaders. While I was waiting for parts to arrive, I started out with the body. I've done exactly one hard body before (my Hilux), but it never quite looked as I had hoped. Between then and now I have built a few plastic model kits, and so I hoped for a better outcome with the Mitsu. I've painted it two-tone, black on silver. It's not exactly a factory color (1:1 Pajero's were all-black, the silver underside was never available with that color), but hey, they're model cars and so we get to paint them as we please. First color to go on, silver (I'm still amazed at how well and smooth the last wet coat went on). This is 3 coats, with 2000 grit wetsanding in between them: The next coat was metallic black. I masked off the silver parts and shot TS40 over it. Metallic is always a bit more difficult to get to lay down nice and smooth, so more wetsanding was required. The masking was removed, and the body was given one final wetsanding with 2000 grit before laying on 3 coats of clear. The end result still isn't as shiny as I'd like it to be, but for a runner it's most satisfactory:
  7. Today I got the message I like to see. Which means next week I'll hopefully be building my CC01. I've got a few hop-ups ready to go but thought I'd better get some expertise before I start. I ordered the Unimog 406 but I'll be building it with my Bronco body that I completed a year ago: I bought a Unimog because it was about $75NZD cheaper than buying a Defender locally and came with the correct body mount parts and wheelbase needed for the Bronco. I would've just bought a CC01 Bronco but I could only get an XB version locally and it would cost additional import fees for something that was about $10NZD over the allowed limit. I've got a bearing set, Yeah Racing steering kit, the CC01 barrel spring set, and some cheap 96mm tyres. I'll also be running a Hobbywing 1060 ESC and the stock motor for now. I've read a few builds and I think I've got the necessary basics covered. I'll do the extra bushing in the rear axle trick. People mention using threaded M3 screws and nuts on the gearbox cover but haven't seen it done. I'm assuming it's as simple as drilling through the holes for part A3 then securing it with the screws? I haven't got any spare M3 screws to use at the moment though. Taking the square edge off the stock rear arms looks simple enough. I looked into a GRU vs high turn motor and I think I'll end up putting in a cheap 60-80T motor. Getting a GPM rear link kit, Tamiya aluminium dampers and stroke extension look like good upgrades, but I'll see how much I like the chassis first. I need a steel pinion and I've seen the C-Hub mod to get more steering lock with some front CVDs. I haven't got a servo yet but I was looking at the Savox 0251MG. Do their "larger standard" servos fit? The local shop doesn't have one in stock so I may get a Savox 0252MG if I'm feeling impatient anyway. I'm probably using the LED kit in my drifter instead of this kit so no worries there. The question now is: What else do I need to know?
  8. Hi to all! I need some information! I have a CC01 Pajero Rally (the grey version, not the black and low version). I use a carson remote + servo. I use the blocked differential mode i use the RC for exposition and, when I use it, only for off road (to tell you the true i have a real Pajero 2003 grey with black wheel, very identical to this RC) Now I buy a 4 wheel (wheel rim and Tire) black with maximum size 2.2" (I measure and are 10.8 cm of diameter) but there are too big because the bodyshell do not fit and when suspension is all compress the wheel touch the chassis. This wheel are very pretty and I will keep it but I buy another kit of 4 wheel (wheel rim and Tire) that have size, extimated, of 1.9" . this wheel is not yet arrived but I suppose that size MAYBE fit in my car without touching chassis (but maybe the bodysheel still can't used). I'm thinking to rise my RC like in real car (my real car has a +5" kit) for a better (in my opinion) aesthetic appearances and can fit big wheel. I not know if it is possible and I'm writing here for ask you that: Is possible to rise my RC pajero gray CC01 chassis? if yes can you link me the kit to buy or the spare part? thanks Massimiliano
  9. So a New Year brings new changes. I haven't done as much RC building etc the last couple of years as I would have wanted (gee, that sounds almost like a confession!). This year I've managed to start off with a much more positive. As I have a number of projects, I thought it would be better to do one thread than to start lots of smaller threads that aren't updated regularly. With that I will start off with my CC01 build. I bought this one just over a year ago second had. Both the body and the chassis had been cut up. But at least it worked (and I got it cheap). So the before pics.
  10. Hi TC folks! This is my first thread on the forum. A quick r/c biography: I admired the Hornet in the late 80's and finally got my first kit, the Madcap in the early 90's. I gave nitro a go with a Thunder Tiger Celica rally car (hated it with a passion), then came back to electric cars with a second Madcap. My last car was on-road, a TA02 upgraded special edition Calsonic Skyline - awesome car, loved it! Sadly my Madcaps are long gone but I still have the TA02 and hope to rebuild it as a runner in the near future - keep an eye out for that thread! I started looking at r/c cars again (+20 years on) when my son was old enough to become interested (a common scenario, I'm sure!) I fell in love with the FJ40 (CC01) probably thanks to my grandfather having one back in the 80's. I did a LOAD of reading of online forums (a little too much perhaps) in anticipation of the build. There is so much info out there on the CC01 chassis. I found @XV Pilot's CC01 Pajero Project thread a great resource and kept coming back to it. I also became addicted to Matteo's Youtube channel - every time I hear that backing music in his videos I reach for my wallet and want to buy another kit or upgrade something....anything. I've been reading these pages for about a year now. What a great community and resource it is! I thought I would share the love and upload a build thread of my FJ40 (CC01) as I learnt a thing or two along the way. Unfortunately I didn't photograph a lot of the initial build but there are already a bunch of CC01 build threads out there. I thought I'd highlight some of the changes and upgrades I've made over the past few months. The plan was to keep it stock and upgrade slowly to appreciate the difference of each modification. From all my reading, the following areas needed some attention: Tyres - stock ones look scale but are way too hard. Steering - the stock plastic steering is pretty crude and develops quite a lot of slop. Suspension - the rear plastic links are fairly soft and interfere with the engagement of the shocks. Motor and pinion - something a bit slower than the stock 540 would give it a more "scale speed" and I heard steel pinions are the way to go. I remember chewing through the aluminium ones on my Madcap and TA02 regularly. Bearings - the first thing I learnt back in the day was to get rid of those plastic bearings and bushings ASAP. Better run times and no slop with wear. Scale accessories - that FJ40 body looks fantastic but I was really looking forward to adding some cool scale accessories. So I took the plunge and picked up the following gear from my local hobby shop: Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 (CC01 chassis) Futaba 3PRKA 3 channel radio. Hitech D645MW servo 4700 NiMH battery Paint for the body (white roof, black fenders and main colour) I ordered the bearing kit online around the same time so I had to slow the build down (rather than use the stock plastic "bearings") and wait for them to arrive. In the meantime I built everything I could that didn't need bearings. It was pretty exciting unpacking another Tamiya kit after all these years....(that smell).... The bearings finally arrived so I got stuck into the build. All wired up and ready for a test run around the house... To be continued.... Next - body trimming, washing, masking, painting and decals!
  11. This is something I've been meaning to do for a long, long time, and now that the days are getting shorter, the weather is getting colder, I've got less spare time and absolutely no money, I figured it was just the right time to embark on an expensive, time-consuming outdoor project. The premise is simple. Take two of Tamiya's much-loved CC01 chassis, set them up in identical trim, then pit them against one another in a series of challenges. Where possible, Hopup can only be improved by fitting commercially-available hopups, and Homebrew can only be improved with home-made modifications. Beyond that, no holds are barred! To set a level playing field, both chassis have been built with full bearings, shimmed rear axles and GPM steering kits. Homebrew actually has steering arm turnbuckles, but that's just because they were already attached to the GPM steering kit when I took it out of my parts box and doesn't represent any cheating on Homebrew's behalf. Hopup is identical apart from the turnbuckes. Both rigs run the same steel pinion, Alturn AAS-750MG high-torque servo and Hobbywin Quickrun 1080 crawler speedo. Homebrew runs an ORX receiver off my trusty Spektrum DX3C transmitter and Hopup uses a 6ch Turnigy stick combo (primarily because that's the only spare radio I have). Homebrew is the white rig on the left, Hopup is the grey one on the right.
  12. I'll start by declaring that there's something wrong with me. I've had one of those moments where I've become obsessed with a vehicle that isn't already made in the form of R/C. This one: The plan is to use a CC01 as the chassis platform. The problem is that as far as I know there's no one who makes a 1988 Nissan hardbody (uh..hard body) in 1/10th scale. I've managed to find a (close enough) 3D render of the truck online, with the intention of having it 3D printed, but I was advised by someone more knowledgeable, that even with the model, there'd be plenty of work to be done before it's printed. I've also got a bunch of 1/14..? scale Tyco bandit bodies that I've been thinking of 3D scanning and then chopping out the extra cab, but I really have no skill at all (or experience) in 3D modelling or scanning so I'm open to any other suggestions, or offers or what have you, to get this darned thing built and off my "I wonder if I could make that" list.
  13. Quick background on how I came around to this model. I wanted a rig that I could take with me on my walks back through the "woods" and around a field. I wanted something that only went at about a walking pace and could handle some moderate off-roading. I originally was looking at crawlers and almost got an Ascender. I just could never get over what the final price $$ might end up being. The SCX-10ii didn't really do anything for me as it seemed like eeeeevvvvverybody has one. I started looking into the CC01 because of it's "budget" price. Upon reading through @Effigy3 Bronco build, I decided I was getting one. The Landfreeder body was the one I was drawn to the most. So I started ordering stuff... As you can see from the picture, bearings, 80T motor, HW1080, Aluminum motor mount, and some mud tires. Took me a bit to get started as I first wanted to get a new work bench put up to build on. That will do. Time to start building! This won't be a super detailed thread. Most of it will be built stock as far as suspension and steering for now. Motor and front diff. Did not lock the diff, but did use a liberal amount of AW grease. Rest of the front gears, and in the chassis. My how quickly the workbench gets cluttered... Stopped there and resumed a couple of days later.
  14. "The SCX-10 is a great truck," An enthusiast once said to me, "But it's a bit dull. I mean, you just point it at something, and it goes over it. With a CC01 you have to pick your lines, you have to think about your route, and that makes it so much more involving on the types of trails you're going to encounter on your everyday walks." I wasn't planning any new projects given the amount of work I've got on, young family and all the other things that go with it, but it feels like years since I last had a functional CC01 and this one came up cheap on ebay from a local seller. I popped over to meet him on a lunchbreak and picked up this beauty. IMG_20171108_125926 by Mad Ax, on Flickr IMG_20171108_125916 by Mad Ax, on Flickr Bone stock apart from a useless set of aluminium shocks that don't fit right - I'll have to find a set of standard shocks among my parts bins or buy something more suitable. Also looks like the rear links have gone floppy - they might have been trimmed for better clearance? Either way they can't take the weight of the rear springs and they've bent. The body has been painted in a rather hideous green which has rubbed through in places, but overall it's had little use and is a good solid basis for a very quick project. I've tried very hard to love the green paint, but I just can't like it; I considered re-painting on the outside for a rough matt-finish look but I figure it'll look really bad if the paint rubs through (which it eventually will, as this will be a runner). So today I ordered some Carson paint remover and some new Tamiya paint, and I stripped all the lights and trim parts off the body ready for cleaning. Got a bit of adhesive foam to clear up but hopefully the paint remover will help there. Also got a bearing set on the way, and will be raiding the parts bin for some alternative wheels and tyres. Got a few spare scale parts been lying around unused for a while so they'll be going on, and I'm sure there's a 3 Racing steering kit in my stash somewhere, along with a high-torque servo and a 55T motor. Maybe even some bushes to shim up the rockety rear axle, and there's always enough spare allthread and tubing to make up some nicer lower links and relocate the rear shock mounts. You can't beat a CC01 for some light trail action, and I've been without one for way too long. This'll make a nice easy-going project to improve bit-by-bit, starting by sorting that flimsy back end. Future plans include cutting the brick and maybe even a front-mounted steering servo and extended front shocks. This thread will stay open for updates here and there as the project progresses and I get back to some light trail action: the sort of thing I'll encounter on my everyday walks.
  15. Dear Tamiya friends, I finally decided to show my project. I’m newbie here in this forum but not with RC. I started my hobby in mid 80’s with Tamiya RoughRider 😀 Last ten years I have been flying rc helicopters and planes. Dream was always to build a Tamiya Ford Ranger. I bought a Blackfoot body and fixed it with some modifications to CC-01 chassis. I know that there is some better crawler options awailable but I wanted to keep it as a Tamiya product 😀 So here it is. I will send later some more detailed pictures
  16. No mention of this so far? https://tamiyablog.com/2017/08/first-photos-of-tamiya-47361-landfreeder-matte-black-sp-painted-body-cc01/ Image shamelessly stolen from Tamiyablog: What say you? The Landfreeder was always a parts-bin special, but it was one of T's better ones, IMO. A good-looking shell on the popular CC01 chassis, and rarely for a Tamiya scale truck, the drivetrain matches that of the late-80s pickups that the body closely resembles. So does the Matte Black Special offer anything new? Well, I guess only if you don't like painting bodies, or you're in too much of a rush to hit the trails. I've never used Tamiya's matte finish paint on any off-roader before, and I'm not sure how it holds up to scratches and creases. Perhaps this one is better assembled and put on a shelf for posterity? Or given that Limited item number, maybe it's a special treat for those collectors who like owning unopened boxes. Gotta say - I love it. Always liked the Landfreeder, and I often regret using my shell on another project where it didn't look so good. This latest photo makes me wish I'd not only kept it for the CC01 (still in box, unbuilt) but painted it black instead of white. With those wheels and those low-profile tyres, I think it's a stunner. Any thoughts?
  17. Another CC01 build, I've been fascinated with these little trucks since I first cracked open my XC01 Jeep back in the 90's. Got hold of a Tamiya Izuzu Amigo body in a trade that was a little worse for wear. Gladly traded a new Pajero shell for it as I like the look, and it's something different. I figured since it was already fairly beat, it would be a fine body to take out on the woods and trail worry free! I was debating some sort of solid axle rig, but in the end it was right at home on a CC01 chassis where the good Lord intended. I had one here I was messing with converting over to an HPI suspension, and after some wheelbase adjustments, it dropped right on. It had a 3:1 reduction and Tamiya Xacto mini motor ready to go - best combo out there for a trail ready CC chassis. I also used some lead fishing wire to line the chassis rails to add some weight down low. Rear suspension started with some modified Axial Wraith brackets to angle the shocks for a bit more travel. Front is modified with some HPI parts..more on that later. A look at the bottom. Junfac sliders and some others odds and ends The body was missing the rear section, so I added some cross bars and mesh to fill it in. A modified Dingo interior is also velcro'd in to fill in the hole. The PO of this body used a lighter apparently to melt and flare out the wheel wells. They were (are) a wavy mess on all for corners...I started sanding down to get them close, and eventually I'll fill a bit so they are somewhat straight. The orange paint has to go, so there's a lot of bodywork in the future for this truck. Painted the details on the grill and removed the front bumper as it was cracked and pretty much an eyesore. Now has a much more appropriate off road front end!
  18. Hello Tamiyaclub! I've been an Avid Tamiya fan for 25 years, and have been on this site daily for years. It's about time I finally got off my duff and started posting. This is is finished project, but thought I'd post the build here to catch up, as well as set the stage for any future changes. I love working on these little trucks - no two are the same in the end. Pretty sure there's not another going to be one like this out there anywhere. But I'm getting ahead of myself. Here's what I started with. A rough chassis that was used pretty hard as an FJ in a previous life. (Actually, this was about 1/2 way through mockup. ...) This chassis had a homebrew gear reduction that I worked up with some 5mm bore pinions and some spare parts. I've never ran it, but it tests out nice and smooth. It's about 2.5:1 as it stands, but I can change the pinions to vary the ratios. Nice little mod for about $10 in parts. I wanted to go a different route here, so I dug through my big Tamiya suspension box and found some old Wild Dagger/TL01B arms and hubs and made everything fit. Works out to a 220mm width from hex face to hex face so it's about Axial XR mod width (ish). Rear is spaced out with some hex wideners (for now) Dug around for some shocks in my big box of mostly old shocks, and found some Kyosho shocks from a Nitro ZR-1 Vette that have amazingly held oil for nearly 25 years, and were in very good shape. They were close enough for the rear. Some old kinda matching Kyosho nitro TR-15 shocks were the perfect size for the front. They have a built in notched adjuster for preload that is so simple and handy that every shock should come like this. In any case, I cleaned them up, dumped out the oil from both sets, drilled the pistons for crawler duty, and filled them both with 20wt oil. Started with the stock CC01 shocks out front and some Wraith purple springs out back. Total guess on the setup...very much subject to change. Rear shocks for mounted to some old CR01 (staying in the family this time!) chassis parts modded for shock tower duty and braced up for stiffness. Cleaned the chassis up quite a bit here too. Fuel tank here maybe? Fronts get Hot Racing aluminum mounts up top (some upgrades I apparently forgot to rob for my other CC's) which give 3 different upper mount locations. I made a front tie bar to stiffen everything up as well. Really, it was just an excuse to drill up some speed holes. While I was at it, I made a new radio plate just for giggles. Here's where this is going kinda maybe sorta not sure yet but I like it:
  19. Because I have a cc01 Unimog coming the following is for sale 1x NIB CC-01 Pajero black special lowrider No esc inc. Inc. Free UK shipping £110, PayPal gift please [I'll inc an esc from the Unimog once it arrives] Also 1x NIB WR-02G wheelie Kumamon tractor No esc inc. Inc. Free UK shipping £100, PayPal gift please
  20. I have a few projects going on at the moment and I've been meaning to start a build thread for a while. I will post about the cars as I'm working on them, some may take much longer than others and some may never get finished . Here's what I currently have in the fleet, if anyone would like to see or ask a question about a specific car just shout. TT01 - Countersteer drift car. TA02 SW - Built chassis intended as a shelf queen but I messed up the body so need to buy another. Bruiser - Part assembled for almost a year. CC01 - Built chassis (stalled camera car project). TA02 SW - 40th Anniversary still in box. FF03 - Speed run car (*worlds fastest FF03 82Mph) F103 GT - Built chassis with Mugen body currently a shelf queen but intended for speed runs. TRF 419x - Built chassis planned for 17.5T blinky club racing. M05r vII - In progress. TT02 - Stalled speed project, either TT02s conversion or shelf. TB04 Evo IV - Silver can challenge car, current fastest silver can powered Tamiya at (44.8Mph) TRF 418 - Speed run project car going for triple digits and current fastest Tamiya Club Car (85.5Mph) (94.8Mph) I'll start with the M05. I'm working on a Swift body for it and at the decal stage but need to visit my friend and get some more vinyl cut but here it is as of today. It's a V2 R kit with lots of nice Hop Ups included from Tamiya so the only additional parts are carbon towers, hollow carbon gear shaft and 3Racing graphite side trays. I ordered the towers before I built the car and have discovered that the front tower is completely pointless. I just noticed that to fit the 3Racing side trays I need to drill the chassis holes for the mount to sit flush . The pointless front shock tower: The side tray problem: Chassis: It was a nice build overall and I'm very much looking forward to running it. My current plan is to finish the body and then decide on the motor but at the moment I'm thinking about a 2s, 3.5T setup . EDIT *Wild claims relating to having the worlds fastest 2s FF03 are to the best of my knowledge correct at time of posting.
  21. My first CC-01 and what a treat it was to build. Here's pics of start to finish. After this initial post, I intend to follow up with pics/video of it in use when time allows, as well as questions on future mods and changes. Photobucket has pretty much destroyed all of the good CC01 threads, so maybe we can make a new one that covers everything. We'll discuss the goods, the bads, what to mod, and what not to mod. Feel free to post pics of your CC01 mods or just show off your CC01 in general. Pics of my build: I added a 65T RC 4WD Crawler motor. Following the advice of several YT videos, I took out the slack in the rear diff using bushings and a washer. Also, both front and rear diff are locked. I locked the front diff using the method where you add an extra spider gear. I used AW Grease to seal up the rear diff and front gear covers. The only change I have made to the suspension so far is that I added the Stroke Extension Kit. Body is all trimmed up. I may remove the front bumper in the future. I can see how it could get hung up on obstacles, and I also can now see why everyone cuts the front brick. Showing a bit of articulation. I didn't take any pics of the electronics, but I am using the Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 Waterproof ESC. I have a spare receiver box from a TT02B that I sealed up my receiver in. I'll be smearing a light coat of clear silicone around the seams of the receiver box just to make sure water doesn't get in. The body is painted. While painting it, I also painted a new body for my M06 chassis. Stickers are complete. Some pics from the back yard. My next question pertains to springs/shocks. Would longer dampers give me more height, or would I be better off going with the Tamiya barrel springs for better choice of spring rate?
  22. Picked up another New Bright Discovery shell few weeks ago and set about stripping, prep and primered....on to colour choice Wasn't sure which way to go until I saw my friends Pajero so choice made Going to keep this pretty scale looking with some new SDI tyres added
  23. Hloo! This post contains my experience/thoughts on: *Brushless 10.5 motor in a CC-01 ...hehehe *Soft spots on the CC-01... what have broken during my bashing... oops *Mud, puddles, grass and Mud flaps (home made) - what difference does it make? ------------- So, I've been using my CC-01 Pajero Rally Sport to play garden rally. A rally car isn't a crawler, so when my hobby store had a sale i naturally purchased a 10.5T brushless(the limit of the TBLE-02s i think) for laughs. And boy, did and do i laugh! Hehe, i can rarely push the pedal to teh metal so to speak, but it actually gives me more satisfaction to hold back a little and push the limits in every corner than just apply full throttle all the time. It takes some skill to maneuver an overpowered beast And of course it sometimes results in death defying spins, rolls, flips and crashes... but my inner kid likes that now and then. This sturdy little thing can take it... most of the time... Since i started my rally career i have broken some parts... but very few.... and this was actually before the 10.5, it was with the stock motor.The first thing to go was the ... uhm.. Skid-plate? i ran full speed into a concrete stone. After two CA-gluing sessions without success, i managed to repair with cable ties so i could play while i waited for the aluminum spare. I also broke the "knuckle arms" (?) where i had to drill new holes for the steering linkage, easy fix. For the long run i got some aluminum spares. I mean, who doesn't like to buy and upgrade stuff? I waterprotected my esc with liquid tape (golly, that was some sticky messy mess, and not really easy to do if you ask me) and got me a water-protected servo and protected my receiver in a removable two-barrier-box super invention. Mud and puddles here i come! Fun fun fun! But i was a bit disappointed by all the muck I had to clean inside afterwards, ....so I made some mud flaps from an inside rubber tube from a car tire (?). The mess was significantly less, but still required some cleaning . Might have to refine... Although most people seem to be using their cc-01 as crawlers or alike... i wholeheartedly recommend it as a full speed insanity rally machine... All in all, the CC-01 is a lovely car to drive like a maniac. And last.. I am not sure it comes through in the text above, but i really really really like the CC-01. It gives great pleasure to build, tinker with and customize - "how can i improve this?". And i just had to get another one, a FJ Cruiser in which i installed lights and stock motor, my kids love to drive it. Who knows, i might even get a third to crawl with UPDATE! So, the driveshaft could not handle the 10,5t... It went to pieces in the obvious places. But the rest is still going strong hehe...
  24. Hello again friends and welcome to my most recent build. I was going to name this one "What Tamiya could have and should have" just because of my disappointment when this model was originally released. OK, so let's start. When Tamiya first released the Volkswagen Amarok, it was on the WT01 chassis, and it was meant to emulate this truck: In my opinion, Tamiya completely missed the mark when they released a 2wd WT01 version of this vehicle: It's not even the right color!
  25. Regretfully I have to sell my Discovery LR3 Chassis is used but maintained, front and rear diffs locked, front brick removed with custom front, 4 link suspension, rear shocks moved inward for better flex, extended prop shaft, hobbyking waterproof servo, Novak terra claw motor. Electrics cased in a sealed box for waterproofing (you will need to reseal, silicon sealer works great) Body is a new bright discovery, custom made headlights, clear windscreen and front windows removed (can fit clear if required) Wheels are 5 spoke tamiya with fastrax kongs I can include a tamiya teu-101bk esc (but would recommend getting a quikrun 1060 as its a great crawler esc) and an orange gr300 2.4ghz rx nice trail rig and will perform better than a standard CC01. for the record if I was keeping it I'd buy a junfac or other extended prop. selling only as I haven't room and just started another build Price £100 inc postage and PayPal post to UK only, no overseas shipping, any questions please PM me
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