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Found 17 results

  1. I thought I already had a thread about this truck, but all I can find is something from back in 2016 when I first put it together, back before the Great Photobucket Treason of 2017 (may broken links rest in digital heaven). So here we go again, with a fresh thread and potentially only some rough ideas of what we had before. So - to recap - this started life as a Super Clod Buster delivered from an overseas hobby shop (either Tower or RCMart or something) back in the old days of the late 00s. I believe around summer 2007. My intention has been to build a scaler from the body and a stick-chassis crawler from the axles, but life got in the way, I didn't find the courage to paint the body and the comp crawling world moved away from sticks and into something else. The axles got fitted with 4-link mounts and axle-mounted servos and were used for a time on my TXT-1, before being consigned to a box on the top shelf for many years. In 2016 I refreshed the axles with new internals, converted from TXT wheels back to the original Super Clod, and built a budget racing clod up around a Reign K2-3S chassis. The end result was a bit of a pig to drive with 4S and Traxxas 550 motors, and again got consigned to the shelf while I tried to work out what to do with it. Last year, one of my first projects with my 3D printer was to make up some new servo mounts. These brace the servo against 3 parts of the axle instead of 2, so the transmission case screws aren't being strained and the servo doesn't flop around. With some 20Kg servos from Amazon, and some slightly revised geometry, it finally became driveable. However it was still a bit slow on 3S silvercans and a bit too hard to drive on 4S 550s. On its last outing it broke an RC4WD rod-end while bouncing over the grassy field at Robin Hood Raceway. For a while I couldn't work out why it broke, but then I took a look at the chassis and realised the geometry is all wrong for racing. You see, up until I started watching Trigger Kings videos a couple of months ago, I had no idea what a racing clod should actually look like. Now that I've been educated, I see I was still building my rigs like comp crawlers. Steep angle on the bottom link, horizontal top link, high middle for ground clearance and don't worry over much about the steering geometry. Now I understand a bottom link should be horizontal under static sag. For the best geometry, the top link should be parallel (when viewed from the side) and describe a marginally shorter arc than the bottom link (to maintain the correct caster angle under compression). I don't fully understand why the bottom link should be horizontal - maybe this is where the suspension is at its most neutral? - but I also wonder if the loading on the rod-ends is reduced with this geometry. When hitting a bump with a horizontal bottom link, the axle is free to move up and back. When hitting a bump with an angled bottom link, the axle must move forwards (towards the bump) as well as up. If my intuition is correct, this will increase the loading on the links and rod-ends. As you can tell, I'm kind of running on intuition here... Anyway - I can hardly make the rig worse than it is. So, with that in mind, and with my old metal-clad body looking a bit sorry for itself and a completely new JConcepts 1984 F250 body sitting around doing nothing, I figured a rebuild into a classic mid-80s monster truck style is on the cards. Righto - that is the talking done - now it's pics time! Here's a side-on view of the chassis as-is. K2-3S not really designed for Mod Clod builds but it's sturdy and tough. Geometry is more crawler than racer. Note tape around bottom links and endbells because of clearance with 550s. This view shows how much the bottom link wants to come down. I measured 47mm. Top links and wheelbase will be adjusted later.
  2. I am not sure what's quite wrong with me. I sold off my hobby grade converted Taiyo here, and now I have picked up another. This is the Taiyo off-road Tiger, also known as the Taiyo Giant Roader. It's got larger wheels than the classic Yellow/Blue Taiyo 4x4 but is otherwise very similar. This one was branded XGO by Tandy from 1995. Zero suspension but has large tires and the rear and forward wheels share the same differential right and left with two parallel prop shafts, making for a surprisingly capable off road car, especially with the (very) low gear selected. With a brushless this will be very fast, but will be prone to roll over so dirt and grass only. The plan here is quite simple. I am going to keep the battery bays so it can take 4 x C batteries, but I will add a connector to allow the option of the 2C Li-ion battery as well into the ESC. I will go brushless again with a12T 7200 KV ezrun. If that proves too hot I will move the motor to something else, and go for the 18T version. I will have a look at the steering, I think I might be able to get ball studs and turnbuckles to connect the steering over the original system, but we will see. The plan for the body is simple; remove the wing and reduce the rear roll bar height, paint roll bar and wheels white, take off all the stickers and dress it up like a clodbuster. If you compare if to the GF01 you can see they are a similar size. What I want to do is find a way of attaching the body to the chassis via posts, so I can clip the body into the Taiyo, but also have the body as an option for the GF01 to make a 4x4 1/14 clod. You can see the suprisingly good clearance with 105 mm tires. Now with a baby in the house this is really a build that might take a long time, bit I find it's nice to have a project to look forward too, even if I won't be able to make much headway. A little while ago @GeeWings asked if there was any consensus on removing stickers, I can't find the thread, was there an answer? 😀 I know compared to a hopped up TRF this isn't the sexiest build, but hopefully these have inspired builders on a budget and those interested in smaller scales.
  3. The last time I did an entire clod was more than 30 years ago. Fast forward to 2020, I find myself working on a few : Ghetto curing shroud Metallic black TS40 Ghetto paint booth Not impressed with the finish of the body that came with the kit. Decided to paint it. As usual, impatient me dumped 2 cans in 1 session. Now waiting for the paint to cure so that I can sand out the imperfections a bit then another coat to finish off.This first one is fairly stock. Tires will be changed out for original. Next build is in progress still using stock chassis but will sport 10.5t with 120A escs. Dual shorty packs but need custom CF bits to hold the batteries. Unfortunately, my usual guy is running low on CF stock. Let's see how. Good therapy for me since oil price crashing again...
  4. Bought this chassis at the onset of my second spring with RC. While waiting for my first child, I decided to get back into RC thinking that this will be something to share with my kid when he is along. Bought the TLT-1 and things started to escalate. Now, my boy is in second year of Uni and shows no interest in any of my hobbies including RC. So, the old thing has been sitting in the store for more than 10 years. It's still some sort of lock down where I am. So, I decided to clean it up & make it run again. So this is a Gmade Dragoon chassis with JPS gearboxes & likley some HOT racing arm tubes & knuckles. Years of neglect and age old mud & cobwebs Egg shell !
  5. I recently converted my Clod to the Regulator BTA servo setup, and the kit came with a rear steering lockout kit. Specifically, THIS kit. Since I'm running dual steering, I now have two rear lockout kits and zero axles to put them on. They're unopened, unused (obviously) and come with all the hardware that came with it neatly labeled and in a bag. I'll do €10 a piece, or both for €17,50. This is excluding shipping, but they fit in a sturdy envelope so I'm sure that won't be too crazy. I accept Paypal.
  6. Selling some metal gears that I pulled from locked axles made by Integy. See here for more information: Ebay Link for Clod Gears I wanted open differentials, so I remove these gears.
  7. Hi clod mk1 grill and tail gate for sale ..
  8. Evening Im working on this project. I'm lowering my Clod. I've removed all the chassis from underneath at the front and rear so the transmission can ride up inside. I'm (when I work out how to bolt it together) going to use CPE axle servo mounts. The main thing is the chassis needed some serious bracing. I've fabbed up some chassis plates, some internal chassis rails and 2 aluminium radio decks that will sit either end. The chassis is now really solid, no twisting. Thought I'd share a pic! There is still some surgery to do each front right side of lower chassis just behind the front panel to allow servo to move. Got some top advice on here from posters re drilling metal so thought I'd share the results. http://
  9. First of all, apologies for posting another clod buster steering mod, I suspect that something like this has probably been done already, but I've not seen one myself so here goes : I wanted to pep up the steering on my stock clod without going overboard on mods and keeping a fairly stock look. I also wanted something that would be relatively quick to make with simple and few parts. This is what I came up with (on the second attempt.... ) : It a replacement for the stock axle guard bars that allows a standard size servo to be mounted inside the axle guard mounts. The tubes are 8mm steel rod drilled out for lightness, and vertical braces are aluminium. The vertical braces have 4 3mm grub screws in the front to pin the vertical braces to the tubes, this allows for slight differences in the size of the servo used. I used a tamiya heavy duty servo saver and also had to make an extra track rod to connect the servo to the wheel upright, and replaced the 4 3mmx15 bolts that hold the stock guard on with 3mm x10. Very happy with the result, the servo saver is a bit exposed, but this truck is not going to get hammered so I'm not too concerned. I've only fitted one to the front axle so far, and it has made the steering plenty responsive enough without being really twitchy, and I've left the stock steering mechanism in place for the rear steering, along with the original steering servo. The front end is a bit of a tight fit, but there is clearance on all the moving parts and it operates smoothly. Now back to fitting the axles on the war rig trailer
  10. Hi all, I have a dual brushless clod and even with the torque turned down to 30%, the gears are under a lot of stress. I tend to break teeth on the smaller part of the counter gears (15 tooth sections) so I upgraded to aluminum gears. Now the problem is that a hard steel pinion meshes with a "soft" aluminum counter gear, so on the first run, the pinion sharpened all the teeth on the counter gear. This is obviously not going to work. Are there any options for a 13t 32p pinion that can mesh with aluminum gears? I have not found any online... Is anyone using the aluminum gears with their clod? If so are you having issues like this? Thanks!
  11. Hi Guys, The reason I'm writeing is to ask for some help contacting Tamiya head office. I wonder if anyone could help me because I just can't find a direct e-mail to them. I've been building and collecting Tamiya RC since ages and as I work as a graphic designer some weeks ago I came to the idea that it would be nice to draw some vintage style posters in my freetime. The first poster, with Vintage 4x4x4 monster theme is finished, you can check it in the attachment. These are not photo-manipulated posters, they are drawn from line-to-line with vectorised inking technic so there are more then 50 working hours in each one. I am planning to do some limited run prints and I want to ask for their permission as these posters would represent Tamiya models. Of course no Tamiya logo and it is stated that these are not official Tamiya licensed products just fan arts. My aim is to make a few hundred copies becouse thats the smallest amount that the printing house can handle in a nice A2 size matt finish. I do not want to get rich from these posters, I would be glad just to cover the printing costs from the copies. Some other themes that I'm planning to do are: 3 Speed cars, Wheelie Machines, Vintage SRB's and some others... I wrote some e-mail a week ago to Tamiya partners but no answer so far. If anybody could help me contact Tamiya I would be very thankful as I wont start printing anything without permission. Thank you for your time, Best regars, Daniel
  12. Finally got a Clod Buster and have been building it over the last 3 weeks. Right now in it's current incarnation it's pretty much stock except for full ball-bearings. Current Electronics: Hobbywing Quicrun 860 dual brushed, Tamiya Silver Cans DriveTrain: Full Ball-Bearings Future (I've already got parts lined up for future modification of this big boy.) Electronics: 2x Hobbywing Quicrun 10BL60, 2x Tacon 5900kv Brushless Chassis: CPE Time Warp chassis, CPE 4-link kit, CPE rear steer lockout, CPE Dual shock mounts, Level 3 link mounts, Axle guard servo mount (not yet acquired), upgraded steering links (not yet acquired) Suspension: Traxxas Aluminum Big Bore shocks x 8 I'm going to run it for a while in it's stock form until all the upgrade parts come in and I have time to mess with it. Chassis, nothing special Hobbywing Quicrun 860 Dual Brushed Esc Pictures of body Mounted on truck I have not figured out what I want to do with the fog lamps on the roll bar yet. I considered putting the yellow decals on it, but I thought the yellow would clash too much with the paint job. I'll probably end up making my own white blank stickers to put over those fog lamps. I also have a light kit on the way that will be added to this clod as well.
  13. Let's start with a back-story. It begins with a TXT-1. It begins in early 2007, when my love of Tamiya RC was kicking up a gear and I was buying pretty much everything I could get my hands on. A bit of spare cash came my way, and was rapidly swapped for an NIB TXT-1. Around about this time, I also found myself interested in the blossoming scale truck thing, as well as the interesting new sport of crawling. Figuring the TXT-1 was better as a hulking great impressive beast than a dedicated rock crawler, I put in an order to Stella for a Super Clod Buster and a TLT-1. The original plan was to use the Super Clod body on the TLT axles to make a cool-looking scale truck, and use the Clod axles on some UPVC cable trunking to make a super-twisty stick crawler. The clod body got parceled away from place to place and finally made it into Project Ringpull (on those TLT axles) almost exactly 8 years after they came into my possession, but the clod axles never made it onto the stick crawler. And so we must go back to that TXT, and its bizarre habit of lifting a wheel under power. I could never get into that, and I could never drive around it. I guess I just gave up enjoying the TXT. And I wanted more power. So the clod axles got assembled, along with my own special attempt to lock the diffs - two self-tapping screws pressed into the gears before the axle was assembled. Well, it seemed like a good idea at the time... Swivel hubs from the TXT axles were relocated to the Clod axles so I could run TXT wheels, HPI 550 motors were fitted, one re-timed for reverse rotation; a HPI GT speedo was stolen from my 12-cell Wild Dagger, the TXT gearbox was removed, a modded set of four-links was made and two NiMH battery packs were taped to the TXT chassis to power the whole thing. And what a heavy old beast it was. It soon became apparent that it was too short - the top-heavy chassis would wheel-stand and flip on command, but otherwise was impossible to drive. More money was spent on extended bottom links with integral shock mounts, the TXT cantilever shock system was junked in favour of conventional upright shocks. Original ball-ends were replaced with G-made ball-ends, on the basis that they were about as strong a ball-end as money could buy at the time. The result was a heavy, cumbersome, fragile truck that was almost impossible to drive and broke on every outing - usually a lower ball-end. I remember once carrying the whole heavy lump 15 minutes down the road to play at an abandoned BMX track and broke a bottom link after the very first jump, and had to carry it all the way home again. Also, quite predictably, my diff-locking technique royally failed and the screws came out of their homes and started rattling around inside the gearboxes, doing all manner of unseen damage. Not long after this would have been around the time when all my MiMH batteries started to have charging problems, and the 14.4v setup seemed to pull too much out of them. I took a 60 minute drive to a great bashing site to hook up with some other TC members, only to find all of my packs had peaked prematurely (oo-er) and only had a fraction of full charge. That must have been in 2009 or 2010, and was probably the last time it got used. It was shelved (with another broken ball end) and not touched since. I can't say I'd forgotten about the TXT/clod hybrid, because to be honest, even someone who hoards stuff like me can't forget owning an RC that big. I often found myself thinking about a rebuild, but memories of broken rod-ends and dumping packs and desoldering motors always put me off. Somewhere down the line, my project plans were all going wrong. I needed space, and time, to rethink. In mid-2015 I found myself placing an order for some new Traxxas 550 motors - especially since they do one which runs in reverse. And then a used lipo-safe Traxxas ESC came up for sale on here, so that was added to the collection. It appeared that there was a project in the works. February 2016 arrived, and the entry forms for the Iconic Revival were posted online. And I entered a Clod Buster into the monster truck race. So there's a deadline, there's a set of axles, and there's an idea. I've been looking for a good name, and Budget Buster has come to mind. I'm not sure I really like it since it doesn't suit the shell I have planned for this, but it probably fits. The general idea is that I already have most of what I need to make the truck run under its own power, so it'll be a low-budget build. On the other hand, I've been at this for just one day and have already spent a significant amount of cash. After promising myself that I wasn't going to buy any RC stuff in March. And we're only 17 hours into March. This could be interesting. So, here's the ultimate goal: Build a clod-axled racer using, where possible, parts I have in stock or can make myself. TVP chassis should be lightweight to reduce stress on ball-ends and should allow fitment of 4s lipo power for the Traxxas speedo. Batteries to be mounted low on bottom deck, radio and speed on top deck. Soft springs for landing big jumps, low-slung chassis for lower COG. 2 channel 2.4GHz receiver for front steering only. Shell will be something from my parts bin that hasn't had an outing for ages, but might get a bit of a makeover using a technique my wife found online and used for making something totally, totally unrelated - but oh, so cool!! And here's how we're planning to get there: Pull the axles off the TXT chassis Strip axles, remove stupid screws, clean and rebuild gearboxes Reassemble axles using Clod steering hubs and Clod wheels and tyres Fit Traxxas motors Lock out rear steering Repurpose a TVP chassis from parts bin, make custom upper and lower decks from delrin Make new 4-links for an aesthetically-pleasing length Remodel my monster shell and mount low and sleek over the chassis for an evil look Fit Traxxas ESC and radio, go find some wipe open space and have fun A new pair of tyres has already been ordered. I have the original (unused) Clod wheels and tyres, but one tyre was destroyed while I was experimenting with a crazy idea I had for getting traction on rocks. I considered going with the new Proline Destroyers, but since this is supposed to be a budget build and I only need one tyre, not four, buying a pair of Tamiya tyres was much cheaper. I also ordered a bunch more 2.4GHz receivers as I've run out, again! I seem to have far more runners than I ever actually run, but can't ever justify stealing a radio out of anything. How does that work, eh? So where does it begin? Well, today I nipped home from the office at lunchtime, pulled the old TXT/Clod hybrid off the shelf and started stripping off the axles. Here's what the old thing looked like after several years of being cannibalized for parts: Note TXT chassis, TXT wheels, abundance of dirt from last run Axles came off nice and easy Front gearbox disassembled. Those screws came back to haunt me - note one completely missing tooth. New front gears required - so that's one gearbox that won't be reassembled today. The rear had missing teeth on the bevel gears, and since I don't plan to lock this one out yet, there's nothing for it but to replace them too. I could have got away with just one gear set but, since both axles are apart and there's a bit of wear on all the gears from those stupid screws dancing about, and I want this truck to be reliable, I figured I might as well buy two new gear sets and rebuild both gearboxes fully. That's about all I have time for in a lunchbreak, especially as I knocked a pot of screws onto the floor and had to go find them, but the new gears should be with me in a couple of days and it won't take long to get the axles back together. Then I'll onto making that custom chassis. I suppose I need to decide what chassis to use - I have some AX10 plates which should work really well if I make some nice wide decks from Delrin, or I have a K2-3S chassis that's pretty much ready to fit and use right away. The K2-3S will be tougher and allow a more upright shock mounting position, but will be marginally heavier than my AX10 idea and will have a higher COG since I'll need to keep the chassis ends clear of the axles on full compression (or chop down the chassis a little). And that body needs sorting, too... And I have something special lined up for that which I just can't wait to share with y'all
  14. Hey guys - I have a bunch of projects on the verge of completion and not enough spots on my shelfer / runner shelves to fit them so I've listed a bunch currently on the bay. The Varicom Panda is a fun runner but I have more runners than places for them. The re-re Hornet and Grasshopper are theoretically runners, but the GH has only been run a few times and the Hornet has never been run at all! The Traxxas Cat is the last of my early Traxxas buggies. I like them and have enjoyed owning the little pieces of history that they are, but have had to whittle down my fleet to just Tamiya, Kyosho and one RC10. I just don't have excess room and there are Tamiyas and Kyoshos that are must-haves for me still finding their way to my shelves. The Clod body actually came off of a Clod I got in a trade from TCer @markbt73 but I want it box art red and couldn't bring myself to ruin the nice vintage decals just to change the color. As for the Bandido and Pegasus stuff these are project cars I picked up for restorations that ended up being excess to my needs (new Bandido, Pegasus, etc showroom entries forthcoming sometime soon-ish). All the auctions are no reserve - if I wasn't the one selling them to make space, I'd be bidding on them for sure: http://www.ebay.com/sch/waynethebrain/m.html
  15. So my 14.4v Clod/TXT Hybrid has spent the last few years in pieces after breaking yet more ball ends, and since I've thrown out all my dodgy old NiMH packs I've had nothing to power it anyway, as I don't fancy discharging my faithful lipos and ruining them. I really need a big-wheel truck back in my life again, so this winter will involve rebuilding it from the ground up, junking the overweight TXT chassis in favour of something lean, leaving plenty of space low-down for a 4s lipo (or two 2s lipos). I've got a new set of Traxxas Titan motors to go right in (reverse-timed motor is awesome!) but what I don't have is a lipo-ready speed controller. I don't really want to blow a month's wages on something crazy, I don't need all sorts of advanced features - all I need is dual motor outputs, lipo cutoff and up to 4s power. The standard Traxxas EVX2 is probably perfect but UK prices are high - although I could consider importing from the US, some sellers seem to be breaking them out of new models for less than half UK prices. Anything else worth considering? Thanks
  16. I've decided I'm not going to use these so they are up for grabs. VERY hard thing to find NIP. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/trades_model.asp?cid=114827
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