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Went to an estate sale this weekend and picked up a complete vintage clodbuster for very cheap. I want to perform some upgrades to it, like replacing the transmission bearings, etc. Before I do that however, I am not clear or can tell if this is a Super Clodbuster or just the Clodbuster. Is there a way that I can tell the difference? I can upload whatever pictures may help as well.

So after much, much debating (let alone pester you guys with inane questions about Clods), I've bought myself a Clod Buster. Yup! I've finally done it. One showed up for sale about an hour away, according to the seller a completely mint shelf queen with a flawless body shell. I'm a bit apprehensive about second-hand RC cars, especially older ones, but the price was right and on the pictures it did look fairly good. Money was exchanged, and the biggest RC car I've ever owned came home with me. Seriously, it towers over everything I own. And I told the wife that I'd be buying no more RC cars this year, so obviously I've bought the biggest one I could find. When I got it home the first thing I did was inspect it. The body was painted well, but lacked detail. That's okay though. I'm not great with painting hard bodies, but I've got a steady hand and a decent supply of paints. So I turned this.... ... into this! What I did to the body: - Straighten out hood scoop decal. (Seriously, how do you even...) - Painted the mat black window trim of the smoker windows - Traced all the shut lines of all the doors (and the funky tilt nose) with a Parma detailing pen. That adds so much depth to the body! - Repainted much of the silver trim around the windows (my hands are clearly a bit steadier than the PO's) - Painted the chrome taillight bezels and added the white reversing lights - Painted the front side lights / parking lights / whatever those things do on a squarebody Chevy. - Added in the black bits in the grill. - Painted the chrome front side marker bezels and added in the orange lights - 'Relocated' the chrome dot indicating the door locks to the correct location (again, how do you... Luckily the old silver paint came off easily) - Replaced a few missing screws here and there. - Stuck the windshield wipers back on, though I hold little hope for their permanence on those little pins. Might have to devise a different solution. The body seems to be closest to an '83-'85 squarebody Chevy C/K, and they came with a body-colored trim panel in the grill. I'm debating painting the one on there red to match the body, but I kinda dig the chrome look. Plus, the lack of Chevy emblem might indicate that it's an aftermarket panel. Meanwhile, the chassis is in bits. I've ordered the metal parts bag from a Super Clod so I have the correct chassis braces, along with a screw bag (because I'm rapidly running out of M3 Tamiya bolts with this truck...) and some other odds and ends like steel pinions. I've also bought a Hobbywing Quicrun 860 (the dual-motor one) and a high-torque servo. There's an MSC in there right now. I'm not going to use that, obviously, but if space permits I might leave it in and connect it to a broken servo, just so it looks the part. I'm planning to go fairly stock with it. It's an '80s monster truck, both in design and 1:1 truck it depicts. I'm not expecting Monster Jam-esque jumps and sky wheelies and such, but rather this slow and deliberate crawl over some old body sets.

Just upgraded the motors to the full 540 size can and got it all wired up. Don't think I have a thread about this, so here it is. Currently using 2x 3s lipos on the rear and 1x 2s lipo on the front, not got a suitable 3rd battery yet so mixing it up a bit. In this next video, it was running 2s all round and the finned 3300kv motors and had already driven all the way to the park pulling my boy most of the way. My 8 year old had a go as well.. When I replaced the motors I wired one up the wrong way so the rear axles were spinning in opposite directions, I'm surprised it didn't open a black hole somewhere??. It may have done....

Hi all, New here, so hope this is in the right place. I just picked up a Tamiya QD Clodbuster on Ebay. However this wasn't the Tamiya version, it is by Scientific Toys, although the chassis seems identical. I really like the look of it, and I really like 1/16 scale, but the electronics are junk, and steering is very slow and non proportional. However it does have a slot for a 9.6v pack, which is nice. I want to change the electronics (which may be a further post as I've only just got back to cars after a 25 year break so will need some help) but want to make sure I have an option for the motor. Looking at the motor it's 280 size, but I'm not sure it's the same as the original QD motor (or if the gearbox internal mechanisms are the same). Does anyone have a picture and spec of the QD Clod/Pumpkin/BF motor please? In particular the pinion? I don't want to spend cash on new ESC, servo etc if the motor is junk and the gearbox and motor is unique to this Scientific Toys version. Any motor upgrade suggestions would be great too. I'm not looking to go brushless, just something that can do a little wheelie and steers ok. Something for the back garden and with nephews and nieces. It might be the stock motor is fine, but might be something I'd be happy spending a little more on for reliability. Any other MT QD fans, be good to hear what you've done. Thanks in advance. Pictures: The Off Road Tiger (A RadioShack/Tandy 4x4) is quite nice too. Not very fast but very tight turns.

I recently converted my Clod to the Regulator BTA servo setup, and the kit came with a rear steering lockout kit. Specifically, THIS kit. Since I'm running dual steering, I now have two rear lockout kits and zero axles to put them on. They're unopened, unused (obviously) and come with all the hardware that came with it neatly labeled and in a bag. I'll do €10 a piece, or both for €17,50. This is excluding shipping, but they fit in a sturdy envelope so I'm sure that won't be too crazy. I accept Paypal.

After retrieving a Clodbuster from the loft I have noticed that two of the four tires have perished sidewalls, is there any way to save the tires or do I just chuck them and move on? If I’m chucking them has anyone got a link for reasonably priced tires and foam inserts? Thanks, Ax

Long story short, I've fallen in the Clod hole. I miss my old 6x6 wild dagger, so I battered my PayPal credit account and will be building a 6x6 Clod. Yay. So I need the outer plastic drive hubs but they are only available on the gearbox tree. The metal ones available confuse me with all the different conversion kits. As well as the metal parts often cost more than the plastic ones. For the price of replacing a few parts on an axle, I could have bought the whole axle kit. But looking at it,,, it is missing the plastic hubs,,, soo there must be a stockpile somewhere??? Or is it easier?/ Cheaper to just do a hex conversion?? Also the metal uprights that are available look like they still need the original Clod parts so I'll probably have a stockpile of gearbox halves before I even start.

For Sale - stunning refurbished 1980s Clodbuster so those are just some of the pics before I bombard the thread with rebuild pics - here are the words Bought this as a resto project its an original 1980s Chevy grill/boot model and retains 90% original parts Chassis: I have stripped it down to its sub component parts, replaced any items that needed it, and rebuilt it - lubricating and testing as I went. Electronics: High/Low power switching works (switch casing a little damaged but repaired) as does mechanical speed controller. Resistor inverted to move it away from the shell. Yellow crystal and analogue Rx and Tx included and working. Motors are original 540 silver cans. Body: I have stripped the body back to plastic using oven cleaner, sanded and repainted bright red while disassembled. Indicators and rear lights have all been painted as per original instructions as well as body handles and brightwork. Brand new decals have been applied and new front and rear bumpers added. Original Chevy grill and boot panel restored. Wheels are silver with original tyres. Roll over light bar cleaned and new spotlights added inc KC decals. Price: I’m looking for £300 plus courier delivered within the UK (est £20) PM me for any fortune info Now here are some pics to show the work... JJ

Can you post pictures of how big a (stock) clodbuster is next to a reconizable object (or a lunchbox or monster beetle) thanks!

Should I get a clodbuster for myself, I don’t have a job yet, as I’m in middle school, so I might pre order the black edition, since it’s cheaper. It would be my first solid axle mt, and I wouldn’t put a brushless in like I did w/ my lunchbox. Just for messing around, how would it handle the snow? And would one of the red 20kg servos from amazon work? TIA!

I’m in Bristol, U.K. I’m after a Clod Buster to restore to be a shelf queen doesnt have to be complete as long as it’s not just a chassis shell not important but would like it with box PM me if you have one or know of one thanks JJ

Why exactly is th clodbuster so much bigger than other 1/10th rc trucks?

First off, let me apologize for not getting better pictures of everything before now. I'll do my best to get better pics as I continue to make repairs and mods. But here goes nothing! This is my original issue Clodbuster with an old Bullhead body on it. I got this one from a friend of mine whose father built it and then put it on a shelf for its entire life. Here's how it looked when I got my hands on it. This is actually it sitting on my friend's toolbox in his garage. The first order of business when I got it home was to get it going again. It was setup with a Novak ESC (which I was surprised to see instead of a manual speed controller), a Futaba 27mhz tx/rx set, and a Futaba servo. The ESC had a Tamiya battery plug on it so that got removed and I installed Anderson Power Poles on it instead. I hate 27mhz with a passion simply because I'm really good at forgetting about the antenna and whacking it against things, so I pulled the old receiver out and installed a Traxxas 2.4ghz unit. Here's the setup, shown with a Traxxas battery adapter plugged into the ESC. My friend also included an old halogen red light bar. I installed that as well. His father had installed an old halogen light kit at one point with headlights and rear off road lights. With the lights and the light bar running off the same 9v battery source, the flashing circuit wasn't getting enough voltage and only one side of the light bar was staying solidly illuminated. I pulled the old headlights out, disconnected the rear off road lights, and installed a generic LED kit that I got a while back into it. It came with two white LEDs that I put in the headlight buckets and two red LEDs that I put in the foglight buckets in the bumper. Pics are hard to get of the setup but this gives you the idea. I ran it for a while like this but then decided to do something about the suspension. I pulled off the dual friction dampers from each corner and installed single oil filled ones. The shocks are Traxxas Slash rear length units. The front springs are some single rate springs that I had kicking around. The rears are stock Clod springs. The suspension could still use different springs and oil weight in the shocks, but it's better than the stock setup in my opinion. I also made a small notch in the chassis for suspension clearance so I have a little more travel and a little more articulation. I don't have any pictures of the suspension work in progress but I do have this shot that shows off the setup pretty well. The HUGE flaw with the Clod is obviously steering, so I've got the Crawford Performance Engineering vertical servo mount kit on the way (technically two of them, one for each axle). With some slight modification to the 3 way toggle switch, the Traxxas 4 channel transmitter can be used to control rear steer. I've pulled the axle bumpers off in preparation for when the kits show up. For the time being, I'm going to use two Traxxas 2075 (water proof 125 oz servos) until I can upgrade to something better. As you guys can probably tell by now, I have a lot of Traxxas stuff laying around lol. Here's how the project looks as of yesterday when I did a Thanksgiving test crawl. It's no crawler and that's not the direction I'm going with the build, but I hadn't really had the chance to get it out and really use it off road since I got it and this was about as "off road" as I was going to get in my in-law's housing development. I'll get some pictures of the CPE axle mount servo install when I do it. I'm also kicking around different ideas for motor/ESC combos that would work well for what I want to do with this. I'll update this thread when I make up my mind on that, too.

Evening Im working on this project. I'm lowering my Clod. I've removed all the chassis from underneath at the front and rear so the transmission can ride up inside. I'm (when I work out how to bolt it together) going to use CPE axle servo mounts. The main thing is the chassis needed some serious bracing. I've fabbed up some chassis plates, some internal chassis rails and 2 aluminium radio decks that will sit either end. The chassis is now really solid, no twisting. Thought I'd share a pic! There is still some surgery to do each front right side of lower chassis just behind the front panel to allow servo to move. Got some top advice on here from posters re drilling metal so thought I'd share the results. http://

Hello all, I am looking at getting a Super clodbuster from modelsport uk before Christmas. What upgrades do you reccomend? Thanks, Ashicar

We had some EPIC fun

I haven’t really looked at how much Clodbusters and Bullheads are commanding. There are a couple for sale local to me and they are right up my alley for a possible purchase. Here is the ad... https://kalamazoo.craigslist.org/tag/d/updatetamiyaclodbusterbullhead/6460317992.html Both MSC models. Stock builds. Clod needs motors, both need radios. $150 each. What do you guys think? They seem to be in really good shape. If I go look at them, any big issues I should check for? TIA

Hi all, I have a dual brushless clod and even with the torque turned down to 30%, the gears are under a lot of stress. I tend to break teeth on the smaller part of the counter gears (15 tooth sections) so I upgraded to aluminum gears. Now the problem is that a hard steel pinion meshes with a "soft" aluminum counter gear, so on the first run, the pinion sharpened all the teeth on the counter gear. This is obviously not going to work. Are there any options for a 13t 32p pinion that can mesh with aluminum gears? I have not found any online... Is anyone using the aluminum gears with their clod? If so are you having issues like this? Thanks!

Confession time, I'm kinda digging the whole '80s Monster Truck-thing. I've always overlooked Clods for being huge and impractical, and kinda expensive for the performance that they give. But more and more I'm liking the stiff and bouncy '80s flashback they give, and find myself looking online at secondhand Clods to turn into my Official Project of 2018. As far as I can tell they came in 3 generations, each a little less desirable than the last, and only differentiated through their body shell. 1st Gen: Chevy grill and logos on the back. White wheels, Clod Buster decals. 2nd Gen: No Chevrolet branding anywhere, otherwise exactly the same as 1st gen. 3rd Gen: 4x4x4 in the grill, different set of decals, chrome wheels, blue stuff instead of red stuff. Different blower and hood scoop moldings. Are they all equal in terms of chassis? Did Tamiya ever incorporate any improvements along the line, like extra bracing or stronger gears or something? And how much 'fun' are they in stock form? (Silly question obviously) I've seen videos where they do small jumps and pop wheelies and have a decent turn of speed, but then I've also seen videos where they just sorta lumber around, making this annoying wailing cheap-Chinese-toy sound and looking quite miserable. I know someone like Matteo can make anything seem interesting, but I understand that some models just move better than others. I'm not looking for Traxxas X-maxx-triple-back-flip-and-epic-huge-jumps-style performance, but ideally I'd like a good beach runner, and something that I can take to the track and crush old body shells with and hop a bit using a set of ramps. The reason why I'm completely picking your collective brains is that I've stumbled upon a second-hand Clod sold local(ish) to me. Here's the link to the ad.The car is in rough, but basically sound shape, and I'm sure I might be able to strike a deal for the thing at around €85ish. (I haven't contacted the seller yet). Am I correct in assuming it's a 2nd gen? Are they worth more than that, or is this one of those whatever-someone-is-willing-to-give situations? From what I can tell it needs: - A new body shell - All 4 body mounts - Front body mount brace - Spot lights on the roll bar And to make it a decent runner I'll probably need to factor in: - ESC - Humongous steering servo - ball bearings

I would like one of the trucks in the description. Not after a shelf queen or anything like that. Would be a runner.

Do you ever have in your minds eye what a project will look like and when you've finished the paint you don't want to cover it? ive just finished painting my 72 Chevy clodbuster. I'd bought from the USA some nice Parma decals that have lots of retro sponsors on that I thought would, you know look a bit monster trucky, that sort of thing. Now looking at the paint I don't want to stick the decals on a spoil the clean look, yet I do because it's not "finished" as I have the decals sitting there :-/. I am aware this all sounds very OCD. Also do you ever spend such a long time on something you want to keep it as a shelfer, yet actually you want to run it? This project is full of conflicts ha

As per the title, I'm looking for NIB/unbuilt original Clodbuster i know it's a long shot but if anyone has one in the collection they'd be willing to part with, let me know Thanks

Finally got a Clod Buster and have been building it over the last 3 weeks. Right now in it's current incarnation it's pretty much stock except for full ball-bearings. Current Electronics: Hobbywing Quicrun 860 dual brushed, Tamiya Silver Cans DriveTrain: Full Ball-Bearings Future (I've already got parts lined up for future modification of this big boy.) Electronics: 2x Hobbywing Quicrun 10BL60, 2x Tacon 5900kv Brushless Chassis: CPE Time Warp chassis, CPE 4-link kit, CPE rear steer lockout, CPE Dual shock mounts, Level 3 link mounts, Axle guard servo mount (not yet acquired), upgraded steering links (not yet acquired) Suspension: Traxxas Aluminum Big Bore shocks x 8 I'm going to run it for a while in it's stock form until all the upgrade parts come in and I have time to mess with it. Chassis, nothing special Hobbywing Quicrun 860 Dual Brushed Esc Pictures of body Mounted on truck I have not figured out what I want to do with the fog lamps on the roll bar yet. I considered putting the yellow decals on it, but I thought the yellow would clash too much with the paint job. I'll probably end up making my own white blank stickers to put over those fog lamps. I also have a light kit on the way that will be added to this clod as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331919950933 Vintage Tamiya Bigwig Hotshot Sand Scorcher Clodbuster NIB Wheels 50293 50121 NIP Bigwig Moon Craft Wheels P/N 5293 50293 For Models: Bigwig (58057) NIB Sand Scorcher Front Wheel + Tire Set P/N 5121 50121 For Models: Sand Scorcher (58016), Frog (58041), Hornet (58045), Grasshopper (58043) NIP Hotshot / Supershot Gold Plated Wheels P/N 266 50266 For Models: Hotshot (58047), Supershot (58054) NIP Grasshopper II (Super G) Front Day Glow Wheel Set (Yellow) P/N 49022 For Models: Grasshopper II Super G (49501), Grasshopper II Super G (92018), Grasshopper II (58074), Fox (58051), Wild One (58050) NIP Super Hornet Front Day Glow Wheel Set (Orange) P/N 0445495 For Models: Super Hornet (58124), Grasshopper II (58074), Fox (58051), Wild One (58050) NOS Original White Clod Buster Wheels P/N 0555026 For Models: Clod Buster (58065), Bullhead (58089) Price dropped to $120. $20 more than the last set of Moon Crafts alone that sold on ebay went for...

Alright chaps, OK, I built this from new in 1992, ran it a few times (once into my leg - hence broken chrome bumper). Then I pinched the speed controller servo out of it for another project and it's been in my loft ever since (a cool, dry environment with no damp).. It's sold as seen, including Futaba receiver. The steering servo IS included. The bodyshell is intact and there are no cracks in it, though there is a split on the separate front valance piece. Roll bars and lights (cosmetic only) etc all OK. Also note I upgraded 6 of the 8 dampers to the oil-filled ones. Never got round to buying the last pair for some reason. If anyone wants me to take any other pix - just let me know. Would love to see it on here, rebuilt by someone with the time on their hands... I'm after £120+ P&P.