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Found 9 results

  1. Having skulked around taking so much advice and so many tips from these forums, thought it was time to contribute! This will be my second ever Tamiya kit build. My first was a Bigwig re:re a couple of months ago, which was very much by the book. This, a Boomerang re:re, is going to go off piste a bit! Now I've bitten the bullet and put this out there, I'm really hoping I don't make a total hash of it!
  2. Hey! Not many here may be into drifting, but since I my my old RC Drift forum obviously broke down the day I wanted to upload this, here we go. This car started out life as a run-of-the-mill TA-05. I purchased it several years ago, with the idea of converting it to CS. (Making the rear wheels turn faster, recreating a RWD car that requires you to countersteer constantly, instead of steering into a corner, with a 4WD car.) Long story short, it was one hacked together dumpster fire of a chassis and never saw action. Then RWD came around, and I decided to go for it. And once again, I couldn't get something sensible out of it, and it sat on my shelf, unfinished. Last year, I brought it back from project badword, and ordered a bunch of shiny aluminum parts. I used my newfound kwonledge to design custom chassis plates, which I had lasercut by a local company, and created this bespoke car. It took some tinkering to get it to it's current state, which I finally deem presentable. The transparent blue Special edition parts are my main reason for not going with another conversion kit. Combined with blue alloy and pink hardware it makes for a really unique eyecatcher. The cut-out logo is inspired by the fijon TA-05 Kit, which was one of the first conversion kits I looked into, and another reason why I couldn't settle for anything else. If you wonder what "Rubik's Cube!" is supposed to mean, I made it up as a team name, when my brother was still into RC. I love old school japanese team names, like Magician or Mind Control, that have no obvious relation to cars. And while listening to "Abracadabra" under the shower, I had the idea for "Rubik's Cube!". It's retro, a toy, a mystery, and spells out RC when abbreviated. Bingo. The battery is raised for increased weight shift(It can also be mounted in the stock position), and the steering now uses Eagle racing TA-05 VDF parts with stock TA-05 mounting points. Therefore, the front bulkhead had to be replaced with this mashup of parts, that allows the steering arms to move inside of it. The rear suspension has been replaced with EA Streetjam R31 style TA-05 parts. Also, there's no droop limit and the TRF dampers have been bored up to 1.5mm holes. 13,5T Hobbywing JuStock brushless combo Futaba 9450 servo Sanwa MX-V transmitter and receiver SkyRC gyro
  3. So I love big monster trucks I dislike Nitro I also am a massive Tamiya fanboy so what better to do than convert a TNX to a big brushless thing i'm not expert a lot of this will be trial and error I have sourced a TNX chassis for less than £40 posted so the first bit of the puzzle is done but I have a bit of a shopping/ todo list It will take me a while as on a budget, first on the agenda is to strip and clean its rusty and stinks of fags! The main aim is to just have a big basher! Shopping list 4068 Brushless motor 2050KV and mod 1 pinions New shocks again will be budget Motor bracket on order spur gear Body Maybe new wheels Going to get it running first make sure it works and does what its supposed to then go from there, exciting times EDIT: after having a good look it also needs counter shaft bits and a new wishbone at the front, going to upgrade both front wishbones to TGM-04 spec, hoping that they still work with the universal joint drive shaft jobbies, decided not to do this at this point future upgrade. I have TGM-03 wishbone replacements EDIT 2: Also gotta work out how to lock the gears in 2nd
  4. Greetings, I wanted to introduce my Tamiya F103 build, the original build was the Renault Damon Hill edition. The main plan is to make a conversion to F104 with a sick brushless setup and gyro. first setup was as I got it, really old foam tires, silver can with 3000mah nimh. right now it is running with a LRP RUNNER 2 23T, cheap china esc, and a 5000mah LRP bat. All upgrades are visible on the pics, the rear motor mount is from a F103GT. I have a brushless setup coming from hobby king and also the f104 alu dif, front end f104, low profil servo... will keep the topic updated
  5. Hi everyone, I'm selling all the parts that I used to make my Tamiya M05 rear wheel drive (with onboard suspension) conversion. It will include the back half of the M05 Chassis which is where where the modifications are. I will also assist in explaining how it goes together for anyone interested. You will require a standard M05 for this conversion. Thanks, Sam
  6. A couple members asked me to post a build thread on this, I've never been a post stuff kinda guy (ever) but I strongly believe that these trucks are over looked and underrated by most in our hobby so if I can help to change that common misconception and mabey help put a few more of these monsters back on or off the road im down to try. The Terra Crusher and TNX are great platforms to build from. Always pretty cheap on eBay or Craigslist, always have transmission and or engine issues both of witch don't matter since your going electric with a modern, current model transmission that is tough as nails. Some will say parts are hard to find but I've built 3 of these trucks just this year alone. Stock replacement parts are available, some through Tamiya some on eBay. Some upgrades are hard to find but with some digging I've managed to find everything I've needed to complete my projects. Start by removing all nitro associated components from your truck including the transmission you can reuse the driveshafts and roll bar. Leave the mechanical box but remove the throttle servo, linkages etc. Perfect time to throughly clean and inspect the entire truck. The parts I used with part numbers are listed below. You can use whatever parts you think will work best but this works great for me. Traxxas 3908 heavy duty brushless emaxx/erevo transmission Traxxas 3908 motor mount kit with clutch,68t spur, cover etc Duratrax dtxc6202 battery tray with velcro straps Integy dual fan heatsink combo c23139blue Castle 3800kv 4 pole race motor with Castle SCT ESC 1/10 scale 540 size motor. I've found that crawling and short course pinion size 10t-12t on 3s lipo and around 16t-18t pinions for hauling the mail on 3s lipo power. Heat starts to become an issue at 18t on 3s but good fans and a smart trigger finger help that a bunch. You will also need some material to make these plates from, they are just flat pieces of whatever correct thickness material with holes strategically drilled in them. What could possibly go wrong....... Right? The plates pictured are big, blocky and ugly but very much functional, you could trim them down way smaller than these. Most of the recent ones I've made are a bit easier on the eye but these in the pics are my original "R&D" set. Lol I made my transmission plates from scrap carbon fiber because that's what I had laying around. You could use plastic, wood, steel, aluminum, titanium, moon rock or platinum if you want to get fancy. You'll have some trial and error with the Dremel making these pieces fit tight against the transmission. I used all factory Tamiya bolt holes for my plates to chassis mounting but I did relocate my rollbar rearward about an inch to clear the plates on the chassis. Use nylon lock nuts on everything. You'll need various pieces of hardware for mounting all this together I can measure what I've used (just dug through my old hardware bin until it worked) if anyone needs specific lengths. I fitted and secured my plates to the completely assembled Traxxas transmission with motor, clutch and cover installed to be sure everything is going to have room to breathe when assembled and then installed the assembly checking fitment and alignment repeatedly before clamping the plates to the chassis very tight and flipping the truck over to drill the plate to chassis mounting holes from the bottom through the original tamiya transmission mounting holes. After drilling these holes install hardware and secure the transmission. The 3rd hole in each plate towards the outer edge of the chassis requires removal of the frame rails to drill from the bottom through the original hole in the chassis. You will have to enlarge (just a little) the cross holes of the main shaft of the new transmission if you building a TNX or if your upgrading from universal type Terra Crusher driveshafts to the TNX dogbone type driveshafts. The Terra Crusher universal type fit perfectly with absolutely zero modification. For the battery tray I used 4 counter sink type screws with washers to let them mount pretty much flush but I still use a thin rubber pad (cut up bicycle inner tube) under my battery. I use cheap redcat 2.4g dsm TX&RX and the trucks will go further than I can safely see to drive. I cut rough rectangles of scrap carbon fiber 80mm by 42mm by 14mm thick for terra crusher universal type driveshafts, 8.5mm thick for TNX style dogbones driveshafts. Proper thickness on the plates is of the utmost importance. Especially on the terra crusher style shafts. NOTE that these trucks do have a small amount of adjustment for diff pinion angle on the bulkheads if you need it. At the thicknesses Ive given you should be able to use the factory diff pinion angle setting. I used some nuts as spacers under my much thinner TNX plates while testing to find the best thickness plates for the terra crusher style shafts, the titanium GPM upgraded driveshafts on eBay are pretty good but for my bashing style I prefer the TNX style shafts so I eventually switched all my trucks to those type. Alignment and centering of the transmission is critical, you'll notice I have 2 sets of plate to chassis mounting holes in this set of plates ones is for crusher style shafts the other set of holes is for tnx style shafts. For terra crusher type driveshafts you need to make sure neither driveshaft is bottomed out in their respective diff/pinion gear. Both shafts should have equal travel (centered) between the diffs. For TNX type cup/dogbone style you'll want the dogbones centered in their respective cups (all 4 of them) before drilling your plate to chassis mounting holes. I actually put a very small thin peice of rubber inside the cups before I install the dogbones to help keep the dogbone from sliding all the way forward or rearward. The bones still have a few mm of slide if done correctly. I think it will prolong Driveline component life, haven't had an issue yet. Depending on what shafts you use you might have to "clearance" the original tamiya transmission hole (not the mounting holes) to give room to access the plate to trans mounting screws from the bottom nothing structural just making a little room. Dremel works great with a small sanding drum attachment. I put my esc in the mechanical box without the mech box cover at first and tested with it on and off made no real difference in esc heat so I run it with the cover on and my redcat receiver is in a balloon sealed with silicone. I used urethane conformal coating on the esc circuit board and receiver circuit board but better safe than sorry when your driving across a pond right? Zero issues with any electronics since coating them, works great. This truck has a futaba 805bb duel ball bearing steering servo for the small local dirt track. Much quicker steering. I run a zippy 6.6v LiFe receiver pack (not pictured) on this truck now. The last picture is just of my bone stock TNX to illustrate the difference between the shafts. Both the F.R.A.T transmission and the later model non-reverse TNX transmissions basically share a common transmission main shaft so only difference is the cross hole that secures the cup on the TNX transmission is a little bigger. Very carefully drill those holes to 3mm on your new traxxas transmission main shaft ONLY IF YOU ARE USING TNX DOGBONE TYPE DRIVESHAFTS. Im sure I've missed something but hey it's my first thread ever. I'll happily answer any questions or post any other pics you might need. I saved all the part numbers for these builds as well as the numbers from my all aluminum crusher with 5.2r dogbone axle conversion and TNX dogbone driveshaft conversion, zerol bevel diff gears and aluminum servo saver horn. Also for the pivot ball suspension conversion. Currently working on fine tuning one piece aluminum chassis plates for Crushers. Can't find any so I'm making a few. Some with original giant 1/4 scale steering servo mounts and some with the regular 10th steering servo scale like the TNX came with.
  7. Hi all, Just finished installing the hop ups to make my previously stock HB2010 eligible for next weekend's DT02 challenge event. We took the newly tuned HB out for a spin yesterday and was impressed by the massive increase in speed that the new motor and full bearings have given the buggy. We've also been down to the TORCH track last Sunday afternoon for a blast round the track there - great fun and should be even better now we've got the 540 motor in there. However, the poor HB body shell is already starting to look a little battle scarred...I lost one of the headlights yesterday as a result of a head-on smash (fortunately the red plastic seems to react postively to super glue and the shattered plastic is now back in place, for how long remains to be seen!). I've also got cracks around the roof area. This leads me think that the HB shell isn't going to withstand the rigours of weekly racing...plus having been down to TORCH last week we were definately the odd ones out, and of course the body shell, driver figure, etc are all adding weight. So, the aim is to get both my son and I in a position where we both have a car to race - at the moment the Holiday Buggy is our only RC car - we're both total newbies to this hobby. I'm planning to buy a Sand Viper kit to build for myself to race and gradually hop-up over time, plus experiment with camber angles and so on. Initially I was thinking I'll have to buy two sand vipers, however I then realised that HB and Sand Viper are based on the same chassis. A quick google search showed I can buy a Sand Viper body shell and wing online for about £10 which got me thinking - how easy is it to swap out the HB shell for the sand viper shell? I've got a few bits left on the M and D trees that look like mounting points for body shells - are these the ones that I'd use for the Sand Viper shell and wing? What else would I need to change? I'm planning to go back down to TORCH the first Sunday in October and talk to them about entry requirements for their races - I'm assuming I'll also need to change the wheels and tyres for Sand Viper wheels and whatever tyres are permitted in races? If anyone has done this, or can advise feasibility it'd be much appreciated.
  8. Hi to all, First, let me introduce myself: As most of the members in this club RC cars were one of my biggest hobbies in my childhood, and after finding my old RC toy last year and giving it some runs I decided that I needed to get into the hobby again and some months ago I bought a Team Associated SC10b. I really liked the scale looks and it is really fun to drive, but as it was a RTR car I always had the feeling that something was missing, and it was the pleasure to build the car myself. I then directly pointed to Tamiya because of their scale look and "easy to build" kits. I felt completely in love with the Rough Rider, but its high price and not so good specs (compared to modern kits), made me rethink it and I decided that the re-released Holiday Buggy would do the job better for a lower price, but when I started looking for parts, I saw that the Sand Viper kit already comes with full ball bearings, ball differential and other extras, so my idea is to buy a Sand Viper kit and then add the Holiday Buggy body. As this will be my first kit, there is a lot of basic information that I need to know: As far as I know, Tamiya kits come with and esc and a motor, but I have to add a servo and a radio. As I plan to run my car at the beach I would like to buy a waterproof servo, but I need to know which ones fit the DT-02 chasis and if an additional servo saver not included in the kit is needed. So, could somebody recomend me a servo? I also noticed that many people in these forums recomend a low voltage alarm to use the provided esc with lipos as that esc thas not have a low voltage cut-off. Could you tell me where to fet one of these? Then, I will need to know which parts are needed to mount the Holiday Buggy body on the chasis: In some fotos, I see that some body mounts are put on the shock towers, but I don't know the part numbers. And last, I know that the Rough Rider has a plastic cover to protect the motor from water, do you knwo if this would also work wit a dirt tuned or sport tuned motor in the DT-02? When I receive answer to my questions, I will order the kit and the parts, and I will edit this post to document it with the building/conversion process. Thanks in advance for your answers.
  9. After having built a few Scania R470/620s, I've decided to make a P340/380. The main difference between the R and P series in the cabin height, the R-cab, (being the premium body) is taller and offers more comfort and space. I've modified an existing R-cab to a P-cab, and converted it to a low-roof. Main visual difference is at the upper front grill. The R-cab has 3 rows of horizontal ventilation, while the P-cab has only 2 rows. Showing the 2 trucks side-by-side:
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