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Found 11 results

  1. Well it's been a while since I've spent any meaningful time in this forum. I got back into this hobby because of my Tamiya and Kyosho nostalgia with all the re-released kits. This in turn opened my eyes to the world of crawling and the other brands that mostly fill out that spectrum of the hobby. I started off with the G-Made Sawback 4LS kit as my first foray into the scale/crawler world. I've got plenty more lined up behind this truck to build in this genre too. I've got a thread on another forum that I forgot to update here... This is pretty much my first scaler/crawler type R/C. Pretty average normal build and nothing crazy like some of you more talented folks out there. Follow this build on YouTube - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnWfHyV3LtMBL94b2Y9BSpTH1aFcEuuaO Kit and Parts G-made Sawback 4LS Kit Hobbywing 1060 Brushed ESC Power HD 20KG waterproof servo GoolRC 27T Brushed motor G-Made Aluminum CHub G-Made Zero Ackerman Knuckle G-Made Zero Ackerman Steering Links G-Made Rock Sliders G-Made Brass weights G-Made Long CVA Kit for Sawback 4LS and Komodo G-made 20031 Shock Spring 19X58mm Soft Green GMA0020031 1/10 Tow Shackle for Off-Road Trail Rock CrawlingJunFac 80012 Heavy Duty Rear Bumper for G-made Sawback Boom Racing Aluminum Servo Plate I always forget to take pictures while I'm building. Chassis pretty much built A look at the Zero Ackerman Setup A look at the electronics & motor have not started to clean up wiring yet. Started paint on the body Masked with masking tape only to find out later that the light kit included light masks!!! Grrrrr :x Test fit. Started applying decals. Started wiring up lights As it sits right now. My first flex shot. Am I doing this right? More to come. Sliders and brass weights are arriving today. I have some ideas of what figures I want to use for the driver. Trying to decide if I should cut out a footwell so the figure will fit. Also plan on getting scale accessories for the vehicle as well.
  2. Might be more for one of the scaler forums but it's been a long time since I posted on those and I'm not even sure I still have my login deets. Anyhoo, I know there's a few good custom rig builders on here so maybe some good advice for me I'm building a Class 1 scaler using an old Bruiser body, Maverick Scout axles and transmission and TCS X-trail chassis rails. It has 85mm shocks and is just on the tall side of "about right" for the type of look I'm going for. I've mostly replaced the Maverick links with custom (or modified the existing) to get the right wheelbase. At rest the truck looks perfect. The wheelbase is spot on and there's plenty of ground clearance under the middle of the chassis, even with fairly small 90mm KRT tyres. IMG_20180420_114847 by Mad Ax, on Flickr Ignore the kinky link in this photo - that's stock, I'll be replacing it with a straight link when I adjust the wheelbase The problem is, at full compression, the axles move laterally and push the wheelbase out. IMG_20180420_114907 by Mad Ax, on Flickr I know this is generally a problem with 4-links due to the arc described by the lower link, it's always going to shift the axle a little bit under articulation. Now I've been trying to engage the 3D modelling aspect of my brain, but it currently seems to be out of action (it's probably suffering an incompatibility issue with the nighttime baby support bioware I installed a year ago) and I can't bend my brain around how to minimise the issue. So, do my bottom links look right? Should I relocate my top links to reduce the problem, raise the mounting point on the chassis or lower it, or will I just have to adjust the wheelbase to get a good compromise?
  3. So here's something different.... I think it's fun to take something, build it for a purpose it was never designed for, mod the heck out of it, and see how it does. I've wanted to build a Tamiya rock buggy for scale trail runs and crawl sessions for a while but never really found the right platform. Picked up a Hotshot a while ago to convert as I love the look, but the drivetrain seemed too fragile. TT02B was also about to get the nod, but liked building it up into a speed machine and decided to keep it. For whatever reason I was randomly thinking of a few mods to my TL01 drift car the other day and a light bulb went off. TL01? Multiple suspension setups? Narrow chassis? Lots of big, wide gears? Diffs that can easily be locked? Hmmm..... So went off and digging into my parts stash. Found a TL01 core chassis that's been here for years. This thing has to be nearly 20 years old. Dusty and neglected, it was time for a new life! Biggest headache for trail duty is the battery sit crossways in the chassis, which can catch on everything. But, I was thinking with a bit of dremel work, I could get the battery down in the chassis lengthwise and protect it from harm. This chassis works out great since the prop shaft is up high, leaving a huge open space underneath where all the heavy stuff can go... Hmmm.... An hour of semi-careful cutting later... Looks like a green light to me. So stripped and cleaned the chassis and gears. Amazing that after nearly 20 years, this thing was in mint condition. I remember running it hard as a rally car back in the day, but it's still solid, crack free, and the gears still look new. I locked the diffs front and rear, greased it up with some ceramic grease and bolted it back together. 65t motor is just for testing....after building or tearing down a car, I usually run it for a few minutes on 3v just to set the gears and spread the grease. Also to make sure everything spins free - rather find out on my workbench than have an old, long out of production gear get chewed up. Thankfully this one is still as smooth as the day I built it. Since it's a TL, I had the choice of wide or narrow suspension (options are good!) The narrow suspension was touring car width and looked a bit narrow to me. Went with a longer suspension which looks a bit wide to me...but can't argue with the increased suspension travel and ground clearance. Hex face to face is about 235mm so a bit wider than the usual scale truck. Not only did I manage to find all the leftover Wild Dagger suspension bits (a miracle) I also found some steel front CVD's that fit. WIN! Kept it all in the family with some XV01 CVA's for now. Need some tuning, but fit fine and the spring rates feel in the ballpark. Some Gmade wheels help narrow up the track width a bit, and found this old Baja King body. Looks the part to me and always loved this look! It's red, and for whatever reason the Rock Lobster song popped in my head. And of course, it's been in there the rest of the day....So the project gets a name. Lots to do yet, but it's coming together well. Plus lots more ideas bouncing around.... I'm definitely having fun with this one. Anyway, more to come...
  4. Hi, first post here. I was out of RC for several years until I got the itch to come back. But found out that the local racing program all went extinct, and was a bit bummed out. I decided to go back to my roots and play with Tamiya cars that I did as a child. My first project was the Konghead 6x6. I've been through several crawlers in the past, but the 6x6 really got to me. Thought it might be interesting to see how much I can do with this chassis. I first locked the diffs and gave it some 1.9s I had from a Twin Hammers. Wanted a little more travel, so I added longer arms. Added a little more options, and ended up with this video. Still a work in progress. (need to decide whether to use the kit decals) Let me know if you have other suggestions for the project. Thanks!
  5. My first CC-01 and what a treat it was to build. Here's pics of start to finish. After this initial post, I intend to follow up with pics/video of it in use when time allows, as well as questions on future mods and changes. Photobucket has pretty much destroyed all of the good CC01 threads, so maybe we can make a new one that covers everything. We'll discuss the goods, the bads, what to mod, and what not to mod. Feel free to post pics of your CC01 mods or just show off your CC01 in general. Pics of my build: I added a 65T RC 4WD Crawler motor. Following the advice of several YT videos, I took out the slack in the rear diff using bushings and a washer. Also, both front and rear diff are locked. I locked the front diff using the method where you add an extra spider gear. I used AW Grease to seal up the rear diff and front gear covers. The only change I have made to the suspension so far is that I added the Stroke Extension Kit. Body is all trimmed up. I may remove the front bumper in the future. I can see how it could get hung up on obstacles, and I also can now see why everyone cuts the front brick. Showing a bit of articulation. I didn't take any pics of the electronics, but I am using the Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 Waterproof ESC. I have a spare receiver box from a TT02B that I sealed up my receiver in. I'll be smearing a light coat of clear silicone around the seams of the receiver box just to make sure water doesn't get in. The body is painted. While painting it, I also painted a new body for my M06 chassis. Stickers are complete. Some pics from the back yard. My next question pertains to springs/shocks. Would longer dampers give me more height, or would I be better off going with the Tamiya barrel springs for better choice of spring rate?
  6. Hello world, from cold Sweden I made a video on youtube with clips from me and my friends RCs, feel free to check it out The plan is to upload videos on a regular basis if theres an interest in what I create. Anyway.. enjoy!
  7. This Friday I received a tamiya high lift hilux, I am almost done building it, but I have some questions on it. First is there any way of lowering the height to a more scale look? Also are there any recommended upgrades for it? Keep in mind I will not be using the transmission in the kit, because I want to add a scale interior and the transmission height wouldn't allow me to do so.
  8. Hi guys. Ive been wanting to do a scaler project for a while after seeing some amazing builds and vids on youtube of them going over the trails and going over various obstacles such as water, mud, logs, rocks and everything else they throw at these trucks. The model Ive been looking into using for this build was the axial ax10 or scx10. The price has been putting me off though. I then came across lots of builds and info on the maverick scout. Everyone that has had them seem to love them and as it is basically a copy of an axial ax10 and built by Hpi I thought for £119 rtr delivered I can't go wrong. Here's the scout when it arrived. Everything laid out and ready for fun. My long term plan is to buy the scx10 chassis and transfer all the running gear over to it. Firstly though I need to change that scout body! So I ordered a pro-line jeep rubicon body shell. Someone mentioned the scouts wheelbase as 330mm and I tried to confirm this but went for the jeep rubicon shell anyway as it's listed as 330mm. Unfortunately when the scout arrived it had a wheelbase of about 315mm (I'll update when I measure it). So I cheated the arches on the jeep shell and over trimmed the front of the back of the arch and the back of the the front arch. The wheels now fits nicely in the centre of the arches. Here you can see the body mounts pushed out by the white washers we all replace with bearings. They were just to short for the jeep shell. I knew those washers would come in handy sometime! Now I'm happy with how the shell sits on the maverick I masked it all up and decided to do the main body gun metal grey and the roof, front and rear bumper and arches black. Here it is and my favourite part of doing the body work, the removal of be protective film! And finally the last bit of the body work for the moment which is stickering it up. I'm used to tamiya cutting out my decals. The pro-line ones need you to be handy with the scissors. I think it looks soo much better than the scout body. So that's how it sits at the moment. I have to admit when I used the scout I loved the articulation on it. Nothing seemed to be able to get in its way. I suppose it's a crawler after all. I like it so much in fact I want to hold off on the scx10 chassis for a while and have it as a jeep rubicon 'high lift'. So it will have more articulation than a scaler but less than a crawler. I'm going to do this by fitting some rubber tubing on the shock shafts to reduce the shock travel and prevent the wheels hitting the shell. I've heard there are lots of free and cheap mods which can be done to the maverick to increase its performance and abilities so as I do them I'll put them in this build thread so others can see how to do them. There are also many compatible axial parts so I'll look into which of these work with the scout. Body wise I'd love some scale items on there such as a snorkel, wing mirrors, spare petrol tank, roof rack etc to make it more realistic. I'd like to do an interior too with driver. I wonder if pro-line do interiors too?? Seats, dashboard, steering wheel would look so much better than a bunch of wires. Thanks for looking and I'll update it again soon.
  9. I've got some stuff to sell, thats been kicking around for a while. Some extras from my Defender. These are from the Hong Kong Defender. I have the sunroof window, the rear panel windows, door handles, amber lights, fuel filler cap, front headlight cover things (The prongs on the back are cut off), rear seats and rock sliders. THE SPARE WHEEL IS NOT INCLUDED. All new. £15 posted to the UK. Finally, some old RC10 front shocks. Hard to get now. Good condition, but need a clean. Now on eBay. Thanks, Will
  10. Axial bits for sale, all prices include UK post; Black Anodised Top link mount plate £6.25 http://www.tamiyaclu...d=108294&id=169 Delrin skid £12.50 http://www.tamiyaclu...d=108295&id=169 NIB Chassis Plates £8.75 http://www.tamiyaclu...d=108296&id=169 Chassis Braces (green) £5.50/set http://www.tamiyaclu...d=108297&id=169
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