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Found 23 results

  1. RC has taken a pause for me since basically a year ago but I´m back with a new project to kick start the motivation again. Others are on hold once the inspiration returns. And a few dozen are being planned in the background. It´s my first 1:10 crawler build. I was inspired by the Motortrend "RAD4" project they did a while back where they cut up and made a beast out of a little 3door Rav4. I loved the look of it and wanted to do something along those lines, perhaps a bit more OCD and cleaner.. . I started off by pulling off anything unnecessary on the used roller chassis I secured and brushing most of the filth off. I did a preliminary body cut and worked on the stance a bit. I´ve since adjusted the body to sit lower. It sits very nicely on magnetic body posts by Absima which i used to mount on the stock trimmed Axial posts. They sit securly with simply a bodypin to the chassis. It isn´t 100% Tamiya per se, but the spirit and passion is always Tamiya for me anyway. Project Start: 2023/02 Axial SCX10.2 Used Roller - 313mm Wheelbase Kyosho Rav4 Bodyset ( feels like a 1/9th or 1/8th scale body. ) Electrics - Holmes Hobbies 1800kv Outrunner V3 / Sidewinder 3 Paint - PS17 Metallic Green / PS63 Bright Gunmetal / PS41 Bright Silver Ambitions - Simply a cool looking Crawler / Pre Runner inspired Rav4 Auxiliary front and rear lighting IG - @scale_technics https://www.instagram.com/scale_technics/
  2. Thread title renamed - was: Project Top Secret - Element Enduro Scale Builder's Kit OK - the project name and outline for this one is still top secret, until next week, and in fact I've been calling it Top Secret for so long that I might actually officially name it Project Top Secret anyway. But for now, I want to get some of the highs and lows of the build out of the way, as there have been a few. This isn't a full build thread - I get bored doing those and I'm sure somebody has already done one. Instead this is a highlight reel of the past few months. Let's start with a little bit of backstory. I bought my first Element Enduro Scale Builder's Kit from the Racecraft RC pit shop at Revival 2021. I'd just finished building a GMade BOM, and loved almost every minute of it; before that I'd built an MST CFX-W J45C, and enjoyed that too. Both cars had been bought with a bigger project in mind, but upon building them, I realised they were more suited to plain trail duty - not because they weren't capable enough in their own way, but because the cost of buying the extra parts I'd need was prohibitive, and because the way the chassis were designed made it hard to work out how I was going to get everything to fit. Luck came my way towards the end of 4WD Sunday (to be fair I didn't have much luck during the race, finishing some way down the order with a Manta Ray that shredded parts in every race, preventing me from getting a good setup). My number came up in the raffle, landing me with a Black Edition Lunchbox that someone had bought from Racecraft RC that very morning, and donated into the prize pot. As please as I was with my win, I already have a lunchbox (well, my daughter does), and I already have a WR-02 that (IMO) is a better solution to the wheelie vehicle problem. So I took it straight back to Racecraft RC and traded it in for the Element Enduro. This seemed to be the perfect donor for the project I had in mind, as all the parts are available in neat modular sets, and Adie can get them in stock at the local shop - it's convenient that Racecraft RC is not only the official pit shop at all Iconic events, but also only 30 minutes drive from home. Now, onto the key features of the Element Enduro, and the highlights (and lowlights) of the build...
  3. Working on getting some projects that have been laying around unfinished drivable for the summer. This one's interesting....been a while since I messed with a CC01. I sold off quite a few, I'm down to three and a pile of parts. I have 2 built and ready to go -one's an on-road runner, and the other is my Tamiya/HPI/Vaterra hybrid Mu. This one has been sitting for ages - time to get it done! .Hopefully setting up for a CC01 day out on the trail. This is an old chassis, about 15 years I guess? The Tamiya ABS tends to crack after a while, and this one is no exception. Even the gear cover is cracking around the screw holes, so I'm not sure how durable it's going to be. Thankfully, I have enough spares stocked up for a full re-build if needed. Some old 3Racing CR01 portals up front and an SSD AR44 case in the rear. The portals are a 1.5 reduction, so I need an overdrive gear in the rear axle to make it work (on order) - by my math, it'll end up with about 14% underdrive in the rear. As it sits, it's about 42% - way too much. Also, I need a body (also on order!) but I've got it mostly mocked up and ready to go. Trimmed off a lot of the chassis, and some cut up Wraith chassis parts for rear shock towers. Electronics are in and it's driveable, just needs some finishing work before I can give it a go. I've got a Holmes 20t 5 slot in there with the torque ring removed, I think it'll be geared just a bit tall, We'll see once I get out there. Good clearance with the portals! I'll need a front bumper of some kind, ignore the mess. It'll get cleaned up. Bottom shot - no more links hanging down...I've got a bearing carrier tucked in under the plate for a smoother bottom - it's a HiLift F350 steering bridge, works perfect! Thought it was worth a post. Will update as it evolves.
  4. I was contemplating on what light crawler to get but I always like the CFX. I didn't want a full size 300-313 crawler because I just want something that I can drive side by side with the CC-01 with my daughter. Fortunately, my friend handed me this new (assembled/built and displayed only) CFX. It also comes with a painted body, a rear steel drive shaft, two sets of bead-lock wheels (wide and narrow) and two sets of tires. I plan on upgrading it. So far some parts have already arrived. Aluminum dampers 80mm YR aluminum suspension links for 242mm Aluminum shock towers 25kg SPT servo Aluminum srevo mount with carbon fiber plate (I also used the same for my XV-01) Still upgrading the front and rear bumper mounts to aluminum, steel drive shafts, metal steering links, and full ball sealed bearings. Will also install Hobbywing 1080 ESC and a full light kit with extra roof light bar. I don't want to rush the build but the parts and accessories just make me excited.
  5. I got one of these for my daughter almost two years ago, but she hasn't really driven it that much. With the winter looming and less opportunity to do stuff outdoors, I figured now is the time to get back to some indoor RC training, and what better way to show her how it's done than getting my own 1:18 crawler to lead the way? I considered one of the bigger brands - the new TRX-M came out a few days after I bought this and it looks seriously good - but at more than double the price, it was a bit out of budget for an impulse purchase. Plus, I figured it would be better to show her what can be done with the same truck, so there can't be any "but my truck can't do it" type arguments. I didn't entirely like the black wheels on the LC90 variant that I got for my daughter, so instead I bought the Cub version, which comes with a sort of IH Scout body sort of thing, if you squint, with built-in lights and plastic parts and grey wheels. And then I bought another LC90 bodyset, because I really, really like that Toyota body. It might not be a perfect replica, but the Cub body is cute, too. It's a really nice colour and the light buckets are a neat touch. It's just a shame about the stick-on windows. More on that in a later update.
  6. Hey everyone! So I'm quite new to RC, recently built a Tamiya CC-02 Bronco, but I'm having an issue. Basically, when I pull off the rear left spring compresses so much that the front right wheel lifts. I've tried swapping the shocks around, to no avail. I also reassembled the rear diff and locked it. When I turn right, the rear left tire scrapes on the spring, do you guys have any idea on how I can fix it or sort it? Thanks :)
  7. What? Yes, that's correct. I used to buy and restore mostly old Tamiya and Kyosho, however after 2020 parts have really dried up here in the states, and shipping from overseas has become quite salty price-wise, so I've had to adapt. I used to have a T-maxx back in the '99 and it was my go-to nitro for years... I've probably put more miles on that one truck than all the others combined. I recently fired up one of my 2 remaining nitros and it really took me back - it's an entire segment of the hobby I haven't touched in over a decade... so while surfing along in that mindset, I picked up an original Pro .15 model and restored it back to new. In the process I also found that they are cheap and plentiful on Ebay. Of course, now I have 4, all bought for $100 or less. So anyway, I love the challenge of taking something that was designed for one thing and building it to do something else. I found the OG diff lockers for $12 each and that's all it took. I want to build a T-maxx for the woods. Of course, I'd be converting to electric....an Electric T-maxx, such a novel concept. I'll spare all the build since it's a non Tamiya and just post a few pics. As it arrived. Complete sans radio and utterly and completely filthy. "Nitro grime" is just nasty, this thing was caked so bad, it actually dyed the grey plastics shades of brown. I've never ever let my trucks get this nasty. My wife would never let me bring it into the house! All the parts were thoroughly cleaned and in great shape. I bent up a steel plate roughly into the same shape as the lower chassis supports. Steels slides well on rocks, and it was way easier to bend than aluminum. A $20 3 gear trans does the gear reduction and gets me in the crawler ballpark. Fabbed up a new upper chassis out of 2.5mm 6061 with some cutouts...the motor is as low as I can get it and still have the center chassis clearance. Bulkheads re-assembled and shocks installed. Some old #Racing CR01 shocks were perfect.
  8. I bought some lights for my Mini Z and in the process of removing the hot glue/placeholder lights I broke the LED holders. Do the replacement body sets have that same glue/fake lights? I was thinking of making my Jeep into a Land Rover. Edit: Nvm, I managed to secure my lights with a bit of hot glue, its a bit ugly but it works.
  9. Seriously love this thing. It's nowhere near something like an SCX10 or a TRX4 in terms of performance, but it has what those lack, which is an abundance of realism. Drove over these rocks very much like a real overlanding truck
  10. A while back, I tried to turn my Konghead into a trail runner/light crawler. It did ok, but the lack of ground clearance and tallish gearing, even with an outrunner motor, left me somewhat wanting. It looked fantastic, but just didn't perform the way I envisioned. So I tore it back down, put the stock wheels back on, opened up the diffs, dropped in a 3300kv brushless and ripped around the backyard a few times. Very fun chassis. I've had my eye on the Dynahead for a while - the portals would solve both of my problems...but it was quite expensive stateside. A recent significant drop in price overcame my hesitations and I decided to order one. To keep life simple, I used my existing built Kong chassis and just built the portals. Relocked the diffs and bolted them on. So many bearings bushings, and gears.... everything fits perfectly as expected with a Tamiya kit and they spin super smooth and quiet. I'm not sure how Tamiya manages that since this truck has by my count a stunning 54 gears/mating surfaces (!!) Eventually I'll build the Dyna chassis (with about a pound of bearings) and rebuild the Kong as it was such a fun and unique runner. But for now, it's trail time! View under the hood. I used dual servos for 4WS, rear channel is set to run independently on the ch3 switch of my GT3B radio so I can swing the rear tires as needed. I redid the rear linkage slightly as mine tended to bind up in one direction - the servo would easily overextend the bellcrank and it would lock up. I fashioned an 10mm extension for the bellcrank and a more direct link and now it swings perfectly. For electronics, I used a crawler grade WP1080 and a Holmes 5 slot Crawlmaster which with its lower RPM and super smooth control is perfect for this chassis. Decided to go with the Dynahead body, though I ditched the factory scheme and went with something a little more "Prime" inspired. I think it came out great! A bit plain I guess, thinking about something to break up the blue a bit. I used some 1.9 beadlocks and a few sets of Gmade Sawback tires which fit the body perfectly and are decently grippy. Front wheels have just a few grams of weight inside to balance out the chassis. And a few flex shots. Not a ton, but more than enough for this chassis. I'm using the Mini CVA's and a few sets of option CC01 barrel springs so I have a few springs rates to play with. It feels great on the bench - suspension is somewhat soft and supple, but not too much so. Of course, the week I finished this up, we received about 10 inches of snow. so a true trail test will have to wait a bit I'm afraid.
  11. This topic is about the target to transform my Hummer as a Crawler. As I've said in my presentation, i've tried to make Crawler Session with my Stock KongHead, but with open diff, stock tires, torque tuned and Tble02s that not good enough. Take too much money to transform my Konghead into a Crawler, and i've just bought a Hummer without any destiny ( no project for him, just love this model i was young ) By now, I decided to restore and transform my Hummer. I've got some clue by other member to what i need to make.
  12. I've wanted a CR-01 ever as long as I could remember. I really liked the idea of a proper Tamiya crawler but could never get past the price and the looks of the ill-fitting bodies. Over the past Christmas season, I found a NIB CR-01 Rock Socker for a very good deal on eBay so I pulled the trigger. I liked how the Stadium Blitzer body it came with fit the chassis better. Unfortunately, it was winter in Michigan (for those of you don't know, basically blizzard season) so I couldn't paint the body. To get it running for some winter crawling with my friends, I just cut up and slapped on my old FJ Cruiser body on it. I also threw in a Wild Willy driver from my Comical Hornet for good measure. It sat for a while like you see in the photo: I have to say I do rather like how the FJ body looked, so it might've stayed like it was for a while... until I found something....
  13. Well it's been a while since I've spent any meaningful time in this forum. I got back into this hobby because of my Tamiya and Kyosho nostalgia with all the re-released kits. This in turn opened my eyes to the world of crawling and the other brands that mostly fill out that spectrum of the hobby. I started off with the G-Made Sawback 4LS kit as my first foray into the scale/crawler world. I've got plenty more lined up behind this truck to build in this genre too. I've got a thread on another forum that I forgot to update here... This is pretty much my first scaler/crawler type R/C. Pretty average normal build and nothing crazy like some of you more talented folks out there. Follow this build on YouTube - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnWfHyV3LtMBL94b2Y9BSpTH1aFcEuuaO Kit and Parts G-made Sawback 4LS Kit Hobbywing 1060 Brushed ESC Power HD 20KG waterproof servo GoolRC 27T Brushed motor G-Made Aluminum CHub G-Made Zero Ackerman Knuckle G-Made Zero Ackerman Steering Links G-Made Rock Sliders G-Made Brass weights G-Made Long CVA Kit for Sawback 4LS and Komodo G-made 20031 Shock Spring 19X58mm Soft Green GMA0020031 1/10 Tow Shackle for Off-Road Trail Rock CrawlingJunFac 80012 Heavy Duty Rear Bumper for G-made Sawback Boom Racing Aluminum Servo Plate I always forget to take pictures while I'm building. Chassis pretty much built A look at the Zero Ackerman Setup A look at the electronics & motor have not started to clean up wiring yet. Started paint on the body Masked with masking tape only to find out later that the light kit included light masks!!! Grrrrr :x Test fit. Started applying decals. Started wiring up lights As it sits right now. My first flex shot. Am I doing this right? More to come. Sliders and brass weights are arriving today. I have some ideas of what figures I want to use for the driver. Trying to decide if I should cut out a footwell so the figure will fit. Also plan on getting scale accessories for the vehicle as well.
  14. Might be more for one of the scaler forums but it's been a long time since I posted on those and I'm not even sure I still have my login deets. Anyhoo, I know there's a few good custom rig builders on here so maybe some good advice for me I'm building a Class 1 scaler using an old Bruiser body, Maverick Scout axles and transmission and TCS X-trail chassis rails. It has 85mm shocks and is just on the tall side of "about right" for the type of look I'm going for. I've mostly replaced the Maverick links with custom (or modified the existing) to get the right wheelbase. At rest the truck looks perfect. The wheelbase is spot on and there's plenty of ground clearance under the middle of the chassis, even with fairly small 90mm KRT tyres. IMG_20180420_114847 by Mad Ax, on Flickr Ignore the kinky link in this photo - that's stock, I'll be replacing it with a straight link when I adjust the wheelbase The problem is, at full compression, the axles move laterally and push the wheelbase out. IMG_20180420_114907 by Mad Ax, on Flickr I know this is generally a problem with 4-links due to the arc described by the lower link, it's always going to shift the axle a little bit under articulation. Now I've been trying to engage the 3D modelling aspect of my brain, but it currently seems to be out of action (it's probably suffering an incompatibility issue with the nighttime baby support bioware I installed a year ago) and I can't bend my brain around how to minimise the issue. So, do my bottom links look right? Should I relocate my top links to reduce the problem, raise the mounting point on the chassis or lower it, or will I just have to adjust the wheelbase to get a good compromise?
  15. So here's something different.... I think it's fun to take something, build it for a purpose it was never designed for, mod the heck out of it, and see how it does. I've wanted to build a Tamiya rock buggy for scale trail runs and crawl sessions for a while but never really found the right platform. Picked up a Hotshot a while ago to convert as I love the look, but the drivetrain seemed too fragile. TT02B was also about to get the nod, but liked building it up into a speed machine and decided to keep it. For whatever reason I was randomly thinking of a few mods to my TL01 drift car the other day and a light bulb went off. TL01? Multiple suspension setups? Narrow chassis? Lots of big, wide gears? Diffs that can easily be locked? Hmmm..... So went off and digging into my parts stash. Found a TL01 core chassis that's been here for years. This thing has to be nearly 20 years old. Dusty and neglected, it was time for a new life! Biggest headache for trail duty is the battery sit crossways in the chassis, which can catch on everything. But, I was thinking with a bit of dremel work, I could get the battery down in the chassis lengthwise and protect it from harm. This chassis works out great since the prop shaft is up high, leaving a huge open space underneath where all the heavy stuff can go... Hmmm.... An hour of semi-careful cutting later... Looks like a green light to me. So stripped and cleaned the chassis and gears. Amazing that after nearly 20 years, this thing was in mint condition. I remember running it hard as a rally car back in the day, but it's still solid, crack free, and the gears still look new. I locked the diffs front and rear, greased it up with some ceramic grease and bolted it back together. 65t motor is just for testing....after building or tearing down a car, I usually run it for a few minutes on 3v just to set the gears and spread the grease. Also to make sure everything spins free - rather find out on my workbench than have an old, long out of production gear get chewed up. Thankfully this one is still as smooth as the day I built it. Since it's a TL, I had the choice of wide or narrow suspension (options are good!) The narrow suspension was touring car width and looked a bit narrow to me. Went with a longer suspension which looks a bit wide to me...but can't argue with the increased suspension travel and ground clearance. Hex face to face is about 235mm so a bit wider than the usual scale truck. Not only did I manage to find all the leftover Wild Dagger suspension bits (a miracle) I also found some steel front CVD's that fit. WIN! Kept it all in the family with some XV01 CVA's for now. Need some tuning, but fit fine and the spring rates feel in the ballpark. Some Gmade wheels help narrow up the track width a bit, and found this old Baja King body. Looks the part to me and always loved this look! It's red, and for whatever reason the Rock Lobster song popped in my head. And of course, it's been in there the rest of the day....So the project gets a name. Lots to do yet, but it's coming together well. Plus lots more ideas bouncing around.... I'm definitely having fun with this one. Anyway, more to come...
  16. Hi, first post here. I was out of RC for several years until I got the itch to come back. But found out that the local racing program all went extinct, and was a bit bummed out. I decided to go back to my roots and play with Tamiya cars that I did as a child. My first project was the Konghead 6x6. I've been through several crawlers in the past, but the 6x6 really got to me. Thought it might be interesting to see how much I can do with this chassis. I first locked the diffs and gave it some 1.9s I had from a Twin Hammers. Wanted a little more travel, so I added longer arms. Added a little more options, and ended up with this video. Still a work in progress. (need to decide whether to use the kit decals) Let me know if you have other suggestions for the project. Thanks!
  17. My first CC-01 and what a treat it was to build. Here's pics of start to finish. After this initial post, I intend to follow up with pics/video of it in use when time allows, as well as questions on future mods and changes. Photobucket has pretty much destroyed all of the good CC01 threads, so maybe we can make a new one that covers everything. We'll discuss the goods, the bads, what to mod, and what not to mod. Feel free to post pics of your CC01 mods or just show off your CC01 in general. Pics of my build: I added a 65T RC 4WD Crawler motor. Following the advice of several YT videos, I took out the slack in the rear diff using bushings and a washer. Also, both front and rear diff are locked. I locked the front diff using the method where you add an extra spider gear. I used AW Grease to seal up the rear diff and front gear covers. The only change I have made to the suspension so far is that I added the Stroke Extension Kit. Body is all trimmed up. I may remove the front bumper in the future. I can see how it could get hung up on obstacles, and I also can now see why everyone cuts the front brick. Showing a bit of articulation. I didn't take any pics of the electronics, but I am using the Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 Waterproof ESC. I have a spare receiver box from a TT02B that I sealed up my receiver in. I'll be smearing a light coat of clear silicone around the seams of the receiver box just to make sure water doesn't get in. The body is painted. While painting it, I also painted a new body for my M06 chassis. Stickers are complete. Some pics from the back yard. My next question pertains to springs/shocks. Would longer dampers give me more height, or would I be better off going with the Tamiya barrel springs for better choice of spring rate?
  18. Hello world, from cold Sweden I made a video on youtube with clips from me and my friends RCs, feel free to check it out The plan is to upload videos on a regular basis if theres an interest in what I create. Anyway.. enjoy!
  19. This Friday I received a tamiya high lift hilux, I am almost done building it, but I have some questions on it. First is there any way of lowering the height to a more scale look? Also are there any recommended upgrades for it? Keep in mind I will not be using the transmission in the kit, because I want to add a scale interior and the transmission height wouldn't allow me to do so.
  20. Hi guys. Ive been wanting to do a scaler project for a while after seeing some amazing builds and vids on youtube of them going over the trails and going over various obstacles such as water, mud, logs, rocks and everything else they throw at these trucks. The model Ive been looking into using for this build was the axial ax10 or scx10. The price has been putting me off though. I then came across lots of builds and info on the maverick scout. Everyone that has had them seem to love them and as it is basically a copy of an axial ax10 and built by Hpi I thought for £119 rtr delivered I can't go wrong. Here's the scout when it arrived. Everything laid out and ready for fun. My long term plan is to buy the scx10 chassis and transfer all the running gear over to it. Firstly though I need to change that scout body! So I ordered a pro-line jeep rubicon body shell. Someone mentioned the scouts wheelbase as 330mm and I tried to confirm this but went for the jeep rubicon shell anyway as it's listed as 330mm. Unfortunately when the scout arrived it had a wheelbase of about 315mm (I'll update when I measure it). So I cheated the arches on the jeep shell and over trimmed the front of the back of the arch and the back of the the front arch. The wheels now fits nicely in the centre of the arches. Here you can see the body mounts pushed out by the white washers we all replace with bearings. They were just to short for the jeep shell. I knew those washers would come in handy sometime! Now I'm happy with how the shell sits on the maverick I masked it all up and decided to do the main body gun metal grey and the roof, front and rear bumper and arches black. Here it is and my favourite part of doing the body work, the removal of be protective film! And finally the last bit of the body work for the moment which is stickering it up. I'm used to tamiya cutting out my decals. The pro-line ones need you to be handy with the scissors. I think it looks soo much better than the scout body. So that's how it sits at the moment. I have to admit when I used the scout I loved the articulation on it. Nothing seemed to be able to get in its way. I suppose it's a crawler after all. I like it so much in fact I want to hold off on the scx10 chassis for a while and have it as a jeep rubicon 'high lift'. So it will have more articulation than a scaler but less than a crawler. I'm going to do this by fitting some rubber tubing on the shock shafts to reduce the shock travel and prevent the wheels hitting the shell. I've heard there are lots of free and cheap mods which can be done to the maverick to increase its performance and abilities so as I do them I'll put them in this build thread so others can see how to do them. There are also many compatible axial parts so I'll look into which of these work with the scout. Body wise I'd love some scale items on there such as a snorkel, wing mirrors, spare petrol tank, roof rack etc to make it more realistic. I'd like to do an interior too with driver. I wonder if pro-line do interiors too?? Seats, dashboard, steering wheel would look so much better than a bunch of wires. Thanks for looking and I'll update it again soon.
  21. I've got some stuff to sell, thats been kicking around for a while. Some extras from my Defender. These are from the Hong Kong Defender. I have the sunroof window, the rear panel windows, door handles, amber lights, fuel filler cap, front headlight cover things (The prongs on the back are cut off), rear seats and rock sliders. THE SPARE WHEEL IS NOT INCLUDED. All new. £15 posted to the UK. Finally, some old RC10 front shocks. Hard to get now. Good condition, but need a clean. Now on eBay. Thanks, Will
  22. Axial bits for sale, all prices include UK post; Black Anodised Top link mount plate £6.25 http://www.tamiyaclu...d=108294&id=169 Delrin skid £12.50 http://www.tamiyaclu...d=108295&id=169 NIB Chassis Plates £8.75 http://www.tamiyaclu...d=108296&id=169 Chassis Braces (green) £5.50/set http://www.tamiyaclu...d=108297&id=169
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