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Found 17 results

  1. Hi there, I decided to build a replica of my VW bus, a 1973 lifted type2 bay window (with a water cooled v6 engine ) into a RC model. I purchased a reedition 2010 Sand scorcher and started the build couple month ago, I thought it would be all about the details, trying to replicate all the work that went into my original bus into a 1/10 scale version, using a mix of old models parts, 3D printed parts and so on... This is where things started to be a little more tricky than I thought, the only body I could find online of a type 2 bus 1/10 (the one with the square front, not with the V front) is an ABS Body and a Lexan body found on eBay that are basically vacuum molded and lack a lot of details as a result . Second huge detail is the wheel spacing, the bus front to back wheel distance Of the bus body is a lot smaller than the sand scorcher wheel distance... this is when I decided to cut the bottom plate and reduce the overall size of my Sand scorcher body :/ In this thread i’ll Show you all the steps of my work in progress, this is far from being done but i’m Planning on posting regular updates of my built . Hopefully this will be a good one . Here are some pictures of my (real) Bus , you can find more here http://www.instagram.com/pacifist_northwest . Let’s see how close I can get wish me luck.
  2. Hey! Not many here may be into drifting, but since I my my old RC Drift forum obviously broke down the day I wanted to upload this, here we go. This car started out life as a run-of-the-mill TA-05. I purchased it several years ago, with the idea of converting it to CS. (Making the rear wheels turn faster, recreating a RWD car that requires you to countersteer constantly, instead of steering into a corner, with a 4WD car.) Long story short, it was one hacked together dumpster fire of a chassis and never saw action. Then RWD came around, and I decided to go for it. And once again, I couldn't get something sensible out of it, and it sat on my shelf, unfinished. Last year, I brought it back from project badword, and ordered a bunch of shiny aluminum parts. I used my newfound kwonledge to design custom chassis plates, which I had lasercut by a local company, and created this bespoke car. It took some tinkering to get it to it's current state, which I finally deem presentable. The transparent blue Special edition parts are my main reason for not going with another conversion kit. Combined with blue alloy and pink hardware it makes for a really unique eyecatcher. The cut-out logo is inspired by the fijon TA-05 Kit, which was one of the first conversion kits I looked into, and another reason why I couldn't settle for anything else. If you wonder what "Rubik's Cube!" is supposed to mean, I made it up as a team name, when my brother was still into RC. I love old school japanese team names, like Magician or Mind Control, that have no obvious relation to cars. And while listening to "Abracadabra" under the shower, I had the idea for "Rubik's Cube!". It's retro, a toy, a mystery, and spells out RC when abbreviated. Bingo. The battery is raised for increased weight shift(It can also be mounted in the stock position), and the steering now uses Eagle racing TA-05 VDF parts with stock TA-05 mounting points. Therefore, the front bulkhead had to be replaced with this mashup of parts, that allows the steering arms to move inside of it. The rear suspension has been replaced with EA Streetjam R31 style TA-05 parts. Also, there's no droop limit and the TRF dampers have been bored up to 1.5mm holes. 13,5T Hobbywing JuStock brushless combo Futaba 9450 servo Sanwa MX-V transmitter and receiver SkyRC gyro
  3. kontemax

    2WD buggy custom project

    Hi people! This is a new project. This is a long term project. I will need many time to complete it because it will have custom parts. I'm sure you will like it so follow this thread and stay tuned. Max
  4. If we take a trip in the way back time machine to the mid Eighties, you would find me in the market for a new RC truck. If you were a fan of monster trucks and RC, your choices were limited. There wasn't much in the market for dedicated monsters. There were trucks based on pan car chassis, a few smaller scale kits like the Lunch Box and Midnight Pumpkin, and some obscure ones like the Big Grizzly and Royal Crusher, and let's not forget the Big Bear. At this time, I was really wanting the Pumpkin. I saved all the money I could and was ready to pull the trigger. So the day came when my dad and I went to the hobby shop to get the truck. I looked around with my RCCA classifieds intent on getting the MP, when my dad spotted something completely new and bigger. Suffice it to say, when we left the store I was a proud owner of a Tamiya Blackfoot. My pop even helped me out on the price difference 'cause he knew that the BF was the better choice. Not that the Pumpkin is a slouch by any means. My purchase consisted of the kit, a Protech 702 charger, and a 6 cell Gonzo battery pack. I had a transmitter and receiver already. Fast forward a couple years to when I made a new friend in junior high. We both shared common interests, RC being one of them. So one day I brought over my Blackfoot to show off, and then he brings out his Monster Beetle. I'm like, Whats that all about then??! This kid's got the mother of orv's! The red body, gold wheels, and those beautiful CVA shocks. If memory serves, he even had a Thorp differential. Awestruck isn't a good enough term. Well, time flies by but the memories remain. So now that Tamiya has been re releasing its old school inventory, I picked up a Beetle and this is her story.... I'll post the build pics and continue on with upgrades/changes along the way. Oh, the sight of a NIB model. Look at it, look at it..... The backbone of the Beetle. Notice I am adding aluminum option parts. Yeah baby. No fooling around here. The single most important upgrade you can bestow upon your orv: An MIP ball differential. Added more option parts. And the awesome yellow CVA shocks. Insane amount of speed and torque. A wicked new OFNA red HD servo saver. Traded out the 540 motor and kit esc, replaced them with a Traxxas 12T 550 and XL5 esc. Another angle and a shot of the alloy pinion cover. Aluminum body supports. This rig is rock solid. Started out with Proline Badlands 2.2's on gold anodized aluminum rims and alloy knock offs. Looking tidy. Aluminum chassis skid plate. Battery door must be removed for this. Bolts right to the gearbox. JG Mfg front tower brace. So I went ahead and bought a white Sand Scorcher body off fleabay to use as an everyday basher body. I ordered some custom decals from the UK 'cause I liked the color combo. After a few runs, I was made blatantly aware that the tires were way too soft and the alloy rims wouldn't hold them without glue. Since the wheels are more for show and I already put a couple nicks on them, they were replaced with the kit wheels and tires. Sooooo much better. After about a week or so, I got tired of the white and removed the decals (they were kinda crappy to begin with - quality wise), primed it up and repainted the body and finished her off with the kit decals and three coats of clear coat. Oh, and the B-pillar, door handles and side trim are blessed with bare metal foil. About the paint scheme, I found an image online of a Beetle someone owned back in the day and fell in love with it. So I copied it. Look carefully and you can see the rare JG mfg front bumper. I also added some light pods behind it since the Sand Scorcher body doesn't support the MB's baja lights on the nose cone. Ooh yeah, 7 cells baby! Not going LiPo on this bug. The 12T motor and 7 cell pack is stupid fast already. It would be uncontrollable with a brushless LiPo setup. Installation of lights. Dark outside? No problem. Twiningmike HD steering rod kit. Ultra rare NOS You-G aluminum dampers. More images to come soon. Let me know what you think. Cheers.
  5. Pintopower

    Ampro tamiya cw01 upgrades

    Hey folks, I have been doing some work on my CW01's lately, trying to ignore my hatred of Project Hor-Cha-Hop. I made some Midnight Pumpkin body mounts and a brace for the transmission to stop the irritating slap of the trans under torquing. My current design has to do with my double wishbone front end upgrade on the Hornet. I am working on an updated version akin to a Grasshopper II where the shock is sunk deep into the arm. This will allow you to use a 50mm touring car shock. However, this "sunken" shock mount setup will not work on a CW01, nor will it work if you want to keep the friction shocks on a Hornet/Hopper. So I made one that leverages the Tamiya steel spring mount. Tested on the Hornet and it is perfect. I installed in on the CW01 and there was an unexpected change; wheel track. The front of the CW01 is now 15-20mm wider than stock. Now this is very desirable if you want to run and jump the CW01's hard, it makes them much more stable. If I shorten the arm by 10mm, it will do a few bad things. 1. The upright will come closer to the shock mount and hit the shock. This will require moving the shock more inboard. 2. The shock needs to move inboard. Ignoring the above issue, narrowing the track will result in forcing the shock to move proportionally to the shortening. this now reduces the lever arm on the suspension arm reducing travel of the shock (not the wheel) and also inadvertantly raising the front end. I think I am correct in beleiving that widening the front end is a better route since anyone that would install this (like me on my race truck) wants more stability. Plus, the drawbacks to narrowing the front end are seriously bad. Love to hear some input. Here is where the testing is (had to borrow SuperFly's upright): The widened track from the front From above (sorry, black floor) Also, the upper link will mount to a part that will be wedged by the servo with no screws. This means that this mod will require zero holes or alterations to your CW01. I hate drilling and cutting on stuff I paid for. The MP Mounts are working great on a side note. I change the direction of the pin holes on t he front mounts and made a nice base for the rear body to sit on. Fits perfect on stock body with no mods needed. The trans brace has made the trucks so much less annoying too. Simple little part and easy to install. 2 holes, sorry. There are also Wheelie bar wheels and Lunchbox body mounts that come in all the shapeways colors. I think that's all for now. All that stuff is in the store under CW01 or MP/LB depending on how specific it is. https://www.shapeways.com/shops/ampro
  6. OldSchoolRC1

    2.2 CC01 "Beast" FJ

    Hello Tamiyaclub! I've been an Avid Tamiya fan for 25 years, and have been on this site daily for years. It's about time I finally got off my duff and started posting. This is is finished project, but thought I'd post the build here to catch up, as well as set the stage for any future changes. I love working on these little trucks - no two are the same in the end. Pretty sure there's not another going to be one like this out there anywhere. But I'm getting ahead of myself. Here's what I started with. A rough chassis that was used pretty hard as an FJ in a previous life. (Actually, this was about 1/2 way through mockup. ...) This chassis had a homebrew gear reduction that I worked up with some 5mm bore pinions and some spare parts. I've never ran it, but it tests out nice and smooth. It's about 2.5:1 as it stands, but I can change the pinions to vary the ratios. Nice little mod for about $10 in parts. I wanted to go a different route here, so I dug through my big Tamiya suspension box and found some old Wild Dagger/TL01B arms and hubs and made everything fit. Works out to a 220mm width from hex face to hex face so it's about Axial XR mod width (ish). Rear is spaced out with some hex wideners (for now) Dug around for some shocks in my big box of mostly old shocks, and found some Kyosho shocks from a Nitro ZR-1 Vette that have amazingly held oil for nearly 25 years, and were in very good shape. They were close enough for the rear. Some old kinda matching Kyosho nitro TR-15 shocks were the perfect size for the front. They have a built in notched adjuster for preload that is so simple and handy that every shock should come like this. In any case, I cleaned them up, dumped out the oil from both sets, drilled the pistons for crawler duty, and filled them both with 20wt oil. Started with the stock CC01 shocks out front and some Wraith purple springs out back. Total guess on the setup...very much subject to change. Rear shocks for mounted to some old CR01 (staying in the family this time!) chassis parts modded for shock tower duty and braced up for stiffness. Cleaned the chassis up quite a bit here too. Fuel tank here maybe? Fronts get Hot Racing aluminum mounts up top (some upgrades I apparently forgot to rob for my other CC's) which give 3 different upper mount locations. I made a front tie bar to stiffen everything up as well. Really, it was just an excuse to drill up some speed holes. While I was at it, I made a new radio plate just for giggles. Here's where this is going kinda maybe sorta not sure yet but I like it:
  7. SKYANDSAND

    Custom damage help wanted!

    Hi guys Really need your help with this one. Story goes like this; a few weeks ago I received my Ford C100 bodyset, the box completely knifed by customs. I went to the newspaper and they published the story (see photo). The Belgian television now picked up this story and want to make a report of it but I need them to show other members with simular problems. So, if you're box got damaged by customs or by shipping, please post your photo below. Many thanks and maybe in the future shipping and customs will be better. :-)
  8. gearheadwilly

    Brushless TNX/Terra Crusher build

    A couple members asked me to post a build thread on this, I've never been a post stuff kinda guy (ever) but I strongly believe that these trucks are over looked and underrated by most in our hobby so if I can help to change that common misconception and mabey help put a few more of these monsters back on or off the road im down to try. The Terra Crusher and TNX are great platforms to build from. Always pretty cheap on eBay or Craigslist, always have transmission and or engine issues both of witch don't matter since your going electric with a modern, current model transmission that is tough as nails. Some will say parts are hard to find but I've built 3 of these trucks just this year alone. Stock replacement parts are available, some through Tamiya some on eBay. Some upgrades are hard to find but with some digging I've managed to find everything I've needed to complete my projects. Start by removing all nitro associated components from your truck including the transmission you can reuse the driveshafts and roll bar. Leave the mechanical box but remove the throttle servo, linkages etc. Perfect time to throughly clean and inspect the entire truck. The parts I used with part numbers are listed below. You can use whatever parts you think will work best but this works great for me. Traxxas 3908 heavy duty brushless emaxx/erevo transmission Traxxas 3908 motor mount kit with clutch,68t spur, cover etc Duratrax dtxc6202 battery tray with velcro straps Integy dual fan heatsink combo c23139blue Castle 3800kv 4 pole race motor with Castle SCT ESC 1/10 scale 540 size motor. I've found that crawling and short course pinion size 10t-12t on 3s lipo and around 16t-18t pinions for hauling the mail on 3s lipo power. Heat starts to become an issue at 18t on 3s but good fans and a smart trigger finger help that a bunch. You will also need some material to make these plates from, they are just flat pieces of whatever correct thickness material with holes strategically drilled in them. What could possibly go wrong....... Right? The plates pictured are big, blocky and ugly but very much functional, you could trim them down way smaller than these. Most of the recent ones I've made are a bit easier on the eye but these in the pics are my original "R&D" set. Lol I made my transmission plates from scrap carbon fiber because that's what I had laying around. You could use plastic, wood, steel, aluminum, titanium, moon rock or platinum if you want to get fancy. You'll have some trial and error with the Dremel making these pieces fit tight against the transmission. I used all factory Tamiya bolt holes for my plates to chassis mounting but I did relocate my rollbar rearward about an inch to clear the plates on the chassis. Use nylon lock nuts on everything. You'll need various pieces of hardware for mounting all this together I can measure what I've used (just dug through my old hardware bin until it worked) if anyone needs specific lengths. I fitted and secured my plates to the completely assembled Traxxas transmission with motor, clutch and cover installed to be sure everything is going to have room to breathe when assembled and then installed the assembly checking fitment and alignment repeatedly before clamping the plates to the chassis very tight and flipping the truck over to drill the plate to chassis mounting holes from the bottom through the original tamiya transmission mounting holes. After drilling these holes install hardware and secure the transmission. The 3rd hole in each plate towards the outer edge of the chassis requires removal of the frame rails to drill from the bottom through the original hole in the chassis. You will have to enlarge (just a little) the cross holes of the main shaft of the new transmission if you building a TNX or if your upgrading from universal type Terra Crusher driveshafts to the TNX dogbone type driveshafts. The Terra Crusher universal type fit perfectly with absolutely zero modification. For the battery tray I used 4 counter sink type screws with washers to let them mount pretty much flush but I still use a thin rubber pad (cut up bicycle inner tube) under my battery. I use cheap redcat 2.4g dsm TX&RX and the trucks will go further than I can safely see to drive. I cut rough rectangles of scrap carbon fiber 80mm by 42mm by 14mm thick for terra crusher universal type driveshafts, 8.5mm thick for TNX style dogbones driveshafts. Proper thickness on the plates is of the utmost importance. Especially on the terra crusher style shafts. NOTE that these trucks do have a small amount of adjustment for diff pinion angle on the bulkheads if you need it. At the thicknesses Ive given you should be able to use the factory diff pinion angle setting. I used some nuts as spacers under my much thinner TNX plates while testing to find the best thickness plates for the terra crusher style shafts, the titanium GPM upgraded driveshafts on eBay are pretty good but for my bashing style I prefer the TNX style shafts so I eventually switched all my trucks to those type. Alignment and centering of the transmission is critical, you'll notice I have 2 sets of plate to chassis mounting holes in this set of plates ones is for crusher style shafts the other set of holes is for tnx style shafts. For terra crusher type driveshafts you need to make sure neither driveshaft is bottomed out in their respective diff/pinion gear. Both shafts should have equal travel (centered) between the diffs. For TNX type cup/dogbone style you'll want the dogbones centered in their respective cups (all 4 of them) before drilling your plate to chassis mounting holes. I actually put a very small thin peice of rubber inside the cups before I install the dogbones to help keep the dogbone from sliding all the way forward or rearward. The bones still have a few mm of slide if done correctly. I think it will prolong Driveline component life, haven't had an issue yet. Depending on what shafts you use you might have to "clearance" the original tamiya transmission hole (not the mounting holes) to give room to access the plate to trans mounting screws from the bottom nothing structural just making a little room. Dremel works great with a small sanding drum attachment. I put my esc in the mechanical box without the mech box cover at first and tested with it on and off made no real difference in esc heat so I run it with the cover on and my redcat receiver is in a balloon sealed with silicone. I used urethane conformal coating on the esc circuit board and receiver circuit board but better safe than sorry when your driving across a pond right? Zero issues with any electronics since coating them, works great. This truck has a futaba 805bb duel ball bearing steering servo for the small local dirt track. Much quicker steering. I run a zippy 6.6v LiFe receiver pack (not pictured) on this truck now. The last picture is just of my bone stock TNX to illustrate the difference between the shafts. Both the F.R.A.T transmission and the later model non-reverse TNX transmissions basically share a common transmission main shaft so only difference is the cross hole that secures the cup on the TNX transmission is a little bigger. Very carefully drill those holes to 3mm on your new traxxas transmission main shaft ONLY IF YOU ARE USING TNX DOGBONE TYPE DRIVESHAFTS. Im sure I've missed something but hey it's my first thread ever. I'll happily answer any questions or post any other pics you might need. I saved all the part numbers for these builds as well as the numbers from my all aluminum crusher with 5.2r dogbone axle conversion and TNX dogbone driveshaft conversion, zerol bevel diff gears and aluminum servo saver horn. Also for the pivot ball suspension conversion. Currently working on fine tuning one piece aluminum chassis plates for Crushers. Can't find any so I'm making a few. Some with original giant 1/4 scale steering servo mounts and some with the regular 10th steering servo scale like the TNX came with.
  9. Hi, this is my first post here. I just figured I'd share this with the world, since I haven't seen any of those mods anywhere else. If you're only interested in seeing what and how, feel free to skip the next lines and check out the links below (hope that's allowed?). A quick rundown on this trucks history. I got it as a birthday present when I was 14. It was a dream come true and was quickly tossed in the corner for the next 13 years or so to come. I finally dug it out several years ago to strip it of its body which I ran on a Savage 25 a couple of times. Not a good idea, so I put it back where I found it. Over the years I did spend at least some time with the Blackfoot, however, and every time I ended up somewhat disappointed with the driving experience. The suspension was too stiff, unwilling and generally awkward. The worst part to me has always been the steering and it always spoiled the fun with its wobbly behaviour and useless layout (no offence). Anyways... I recently found myself having a brushless Racestar motor/ESC combo and 9kg digital servo lying around - both new since I only ever ran them a couple of times on another RC. On top of that I also had 4 Savage X shocks left. Yesss, you read that right! So I decided to put all of it to good use and revive my very first RC car after its 18 year slumber. That said, I just couldn't leave the steering the way it was - I mean the inner tie rod ball-joint positions are just ridiculous! What were you thinking, Tamiya? (Haha still no offence). Now, long story short. I decided to rework the poor front suspension geometry and throw in all the goodies I mentioned above into the mix for good measure. This here is the result so far. I've got more mods lined up - but I'm not telling. The facia is missing because this way the truck looks freakin evil! You can check out some pictures of the mods under this link: https://goo.gl/photos/F2X7zgJy7UHNmhmC6 Here's a (very) short video of the steering setup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2PTnfTFsFQ Here's the first ever trial run - you are witnessing something here! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=leMEaFB_w5M I'm not going to bore everyone and their dog by listing everything I did and parts and electronics I used. Just ask if you want to know or see anything specific.
  10. Thought it would be cool to start a thread about weird or unusal RC models. I came across a "War Rig" posted by MadInventor posted in the following thread: This is the strangest thing I've seen yet and got me thinking, does anyone own anything more unusual, standard or custom?
  11. Tamiya "Tracked Vehicle Chassis Kit" & Carrera "1957 Chevrolet Bel Air Custom"
  12. Anybody on here know where I can get some custom designed decals printed? I really dont get why it is so incredible hard to find someone who can print WHITE on CLEAR vinyl in appropriate quality. I am graphic designer, I have direct contact with sevefral local print shops, but none of them can do white print on clear vinyl. I have contacted businesses in the UK, the US and Austrailia - whom claim they can do it, but are reluctant to ship to Norway. I have designed some custom decals for a variation of projects I'm working on, some vintage Tamiyas and some decals for my skydiving helmets etc. Does anybody on here know of a service that can do small volume digital print, with white on clear vinyl suitable for decals/stickers?
  13. After having a reasonable success with fitting the 4274 Ezrun motor in my TXT-1, I've decided to try and improve the fitment by designing and building my own gearbox for it, designed around the 4274 sized motor. I set myself the following design goals: 1. Centre the motor above the drive shaft. 2. Lower the motor to improve the centre of gravity. 3. Allow the fitment of Traxxas Revo UJs with threaded securing pins, as well as standard Tamiya drive shafts. 4. Re-use the existing Tamiya TXT-1 gears 5. get rid of the need to use 1160 sized bearings on the main transmission shaft. 6. Allow the use of a 12tooth to 20tooth pinion. 7. Lower the output shaft to help straighten the UJs This is what I've got so far: This is the main rear plate of the gearbox. It holds 2 idler shafts, and the main transmission shaft. The bearing housing for the main shaft holds 2 1260 bearings. Rear bolts are recessed into the body. Idler shafts are press fit so do not drop out or rotate. Comparison of size with a normal transmission case. Supporting rods for the other main plate are 5mm steel Home made steel components. The hex drive started life as round bar. It will be loctited onto the main shaft with gear locker eventually. Assembly so far. It is interesting to note that the TXT-1 gears have a perfect tooth count for 2 of the idler gears to run on one shaft. Perhaps it was originally the intention for the gears to be fitted in this manner, but some other design requirement resulted in the actual TXT-1 layout that uses 3 idler shafts instead of 2. The next plate will have the motor mount incorporated into it, so that will show the design off better. The motor sticks out in front of the transmission as it does in the king hauler gearbox. The 4274 will hopefully slot between the top links of the suspension. With the idea that I currently have for the motor mount plate and the method for attaching the transmission to the chassis, the motor will sit 20mm lower in the chassis. I have also decided with this project, to build 2 gearboxes, one for myself, and one to sell on.
  14. Hello I keep on upgrading my sand scorcher, you can see here (there are so many news than I can't post because I'm living out of home for some months but in two weeks I'll be back) Now I'm thinking about get some custom alloy rims, I dont know if I'll get the whole rim or only the cover (I think that probably only cover because it will be cheaper and easier) and I want to ask if somebody has planes or 3D models or something so I can take it to the place I'm going to book them. Thanks in advance
  15. julastray

    Sand Scorcher custom rims

    Hello I keep on upgrading my sand scorcher, you can see here (there are so many news than I can't post because I'm living out of home for some months but in two weeks I'll be back) Now I'm thinking about get some custom alloy rims, I dont know if I'll get the whole rim or only the cover (I think that probably only cover because it will be cheaper and easier) and I want to ask if somebody has planes or 3D models or something so I can take it to the place I'm going to book them. Thanks in advance
  16. TWINSET

    Axial AX10 Spares

    Axial bits for sale, all prices include UK post; Black Anodised Top link mount plate £6.25 http://www.tamiyaclu...d=108294&id=169 Delrin skid £12.50 http://www.tamiyaclu...d=108295&id=169 NIB Chassis Plates £8.75 http://www.tamiyaclu...d=108296&id=169 Chassis Braces (green) £5.50/set http://www.tamiyaclu...d=108297&id=169
  17. Does anyone on TC still sell these? Found this on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-Sand-Scorcher-Buggy-Champ-Natural-Anodised-Chassis-SRB-/321018056916?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item4abe2ad0d4 Seems like a decent bargain, but would like to patronize a TC member if possible -Steve