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Found 11 results

  1. Having cut my 40-something year old teeth on Bigwig and Boomerang re-res last year, I decided it was time to try something a bit more complicated and 'modern'. I went for a DF03 Dark Impact, and bought the kit last August and spent the following months reading up on previous builds, known weak spots and tracking down the necessary (and some totally unnecessary!!) Hop Ups. Having finally sorted out a hardened steel main gear for the slipper shaft, and suddenly having a lot of extra spare time, I decided to get going. The full list of hop-ups I managed to track down is: Square RC SDI-27R Hardened Steel Rear Differential Joint Tamiya 53925 Slipper Clutch with RW Racing Hardened Steel Main Gear Pinion 3mm Ceramic Silicon Nitride Differential Bearing Balls Tamiya 53922 05 Module Pinion Gears (23T / 25T) Tamiya 53923 05 Module Pinion Gears (27T / 29T) 4x 850zz Ball Raced Bearings Tamiya 53931 Centre One Way Set Tamiya 53953 Front One Way Set Tamiya 53924 Heat Sink Bar Set Tamiya 53948 Aluminium One-Piece Propeller Cup Joint (x2) 3 Racing DF03-05/LB Aluminium Propeller Shaft Square TC SDI-3 Graphite Front Damper Tower 3 Racing DF03-06/WO Rear Damper Tower Xtra Speed XS-OM27001 Front Damper Set Xtra Speed XS-OM227002 Rear Damper Set 3 Racing DF03-22/LB Rear Suspension Stiffener Square RC SDI-17 Steering Crank Tamiya 53941 Aluminium Steering Turnbuckle Tamiya 53940 Hard Turnbuckle Set Tamiya 51000 Hi-torque servo saver Tamiya 54121 Aluminium horn for hi- torque servo saver Tamiya 53791 Universal Shafts (x2) Yeah Racing DF03-006BU Aluminium Front Knuckle Arm Square RC SDI-36 Aluminium Front C-Hub Square Racing SDI-42 Rear Hub T-Bone Racing 56004 DF03 Front Bumper T-Bone Racing 56002 DF03 Rear Bumper Tamiya 53949 Aluminium Battery Stopper Pin Yeah Racing DF03-021BU Aluminium Battery Holder Tamiya 53984 Buggy Rear Wing Tamiya 53569 Aluminium Clamp Wheel Hub Tamiya 53161 Anodized 4mm Lock Nuts (Gold) Core RC CR062 Small Body Clips (Gold) Hobbywing Quicrun 10BL120 ESC Hobbywing Quicrun 3650 Sensored Motor 8.5T Lots of new things to learn with this build...changing gears on shafts (already done!), soldering, building and breaking in ball diffs. Going to take my time and try and avoid too many hiccups.
  2. Hey guys. Currently doing a df-03 refurb... Could do with some help. Which oil do you use in your dampers, they're aluminum, I'll be mainly bashing, local field? What grease are you using on the front and rear ball diffs? Brands? What grease are you using elsewhere? Need to replace a few components too, sheared the ball head king pin, now part of it is stuck... And ideas on how to remove it, I'm thinking of drilling it out. There's a small part, d5 on the part tree, when I was removing is to get to the spring in the diff, the part disintegrated, I think it may have been over tightened. Also, the ball thrust bearing is being super difficult to get out, one of them came out super easy, but it was disgusting, see the pic below. Also need to replace the diff sponges, they're all either rock hard up like powder! Not sure whether to get the sponge bag, or just get the kit gear bag. Anyone use alternatives? The diff was so crunchy! Really enjoying doing a refurb, stripped the DI right back... Doesn't look like too many standard screws were used by the previous guy when he was adding the hop ups.
  3. Hi all I recently cut my (37 year old) teeth and built a lockdown treat Grasshopper re-release, a Tamiya was the car I never had as a kid! A Nikko sound ripper was as good as I got, although have to say I did love that car! I got the bug to build something a bit more complex and decided on buying a Dark Impact with various hop ups. I didn't realise the scarcity of them and also the drive train issues, but I have set off on the course and decided to stick with it. Special thanks to @Juhunio whose project I found whilst researching hop ups, he has helped me with some sage advice along the way 👍 The slipper clutch is out for delivery today which is the last bit I really need so should be able to get on with it in the next couple of days. Have a bunch of hop-ups mainly to strengthen rather than bling, as well as a hardened steel pinion to go on the slipper shaft. In the meantime I thought I'd share where I was up to. First was to try my hand at soldering the wires to the ESC and motor. I've gone for a modest cheap Turnigy setup initially with a 13.5T brushless. I might have to rethink the bullet connectors due to limited space, may have to flip them or have to solder the wires directly to the terminals. Will have to see though. Have some XT60 plugs to go on as I will be using a 2S Lipo eventually so will put those on next. The only other thing I could feasibly do without the slipper clutch was the shell. My first go at spray painting and masking and think I was particularly ambitious with three colours on the shell but think it has come out ok. I went for my favourite livery of the 7up Jordan which were around when I was first getting into F1 as a kid. Have fond memories of them. I have also ordered some white pin stripes to go between green and blue which is true to the original and should also hide the minor paint bleeds I experienced. Anyway, thats where I'm at for now, to I'll post some more in the coming days Peace out
  4. Just clearing and sorting the post-build spares and odds-and-ends from my DF03 build and found I still had part MD4, the Spur Gear Bushing In the kit manual, it goes in during step 6. But because I used a slipper clutch, I didn't use MD4 as it's not shown on the slipper instructions. Is that 100% right? Looking at it, it looks like MD4 sits inside the gearbox plate and helps the gear shaft 'sit' securely. And that it would still be needed with the slipper, because that gap in the gearbox plate is still there? Or does the tension of the slipper spring do the same job, removing the need for MD4? Would appreciate anyone who's previously completed the slipper option giving me a 'yay' or 'nay' on MD4! Cheers, Matt
  5. I currently have my eyes on the df03 dark impact and the db01 durga, now i understand that the durga is a much superior chassis, although i can’t just let go of the fact that the dark impact is that much better in the looks department (for my personal taste anyway) especially with the livery i’ve come up with for it. With some upgrades, would the dark impact stack up to the durga? would its high ground clearance be important to the performance in terms of bashing? Attached is the livery i mentioned if anyone is interested
  6. I recently purchased a NIB re-re Boomerang from ebay, I was soooo excited, but alas, my payment was refunded with a message saying 'sorry, it has already been sold' So now, while my refund is 'pending' on paypal, I have had some time to think... I want a 4WD buggy, I always wanted a HotShot as a child, but, on reflection, I see there are a number of other options... So I turn to the infinite wisdom of the gestalt! I want something I can bash, so durable with good spares available, I want to be able to have different wheel options and I will be fitting brushless kit with a view to running 2s and 3s lipos. My options are: Hot Shot, Bigwig, Boomerang, Manta Ray and Dark Impact Is the Manta Ray any good? (the price seems quite cheap in comparison to the others). Is the Hot Shot worth the extra premium? Is the Bigwig as sturdy as it looks? Or... am I best off going for the boomerang as there seem to be more of them around, so parts would be readily available and cheaper? Or... should I go for the Dark Impact as it's newer and may handle the bashing better? So many questions... I hope you guys can help!
  7. Hi all. I'm looking for a new and original sticker set for the Dark Impact DF03MS. Will pay or happy to trade. I currently have an original vintage set of Thunder Dragon decals and an original vintage set of Thunder shot decals. Both sets are new and sealed. Please let me know if you can help.
  8. Hi all. I'm looking for the above parts for a DF03. Ever since I knew they existed I've been trying to find some. Please let me know if you have a new tree of them you are willing to part with.
  9. Hi all. I've recently painted 2 shells for my dark impact although what I've learnt I feel can be applied to most if not all lexan window masking. Although I have only painted 2 shells I found what I believe the easiest and most accurate way of getting window masking right first time. On the first shell I cut lots of strips of tamiya masking tamiya which not only took ages but also found it wasn't particularly accurate. On the second shell I decided a different approach using the following steps: 1) I got myself a sheet of tamiya masking tape (part no. 87130) 2) Cut the windows out from the bodyshell sticker kit 3) Leaving the backing on the stickers, I rolled a small piece of regular sticky tape onto itself and sandwiched it between the backing of the window sticker and the non adhesive (yellow) side of the masking tape 4) I then cut out around the windows using them as a template and using a scalpel 5) Once all 3 were cut I could remove the undamaged window stickers (if I decided to use them at a later date). I was then left with perfect fit window masks to stick on the inside of the lexan Sadly I didn't think to take pictures of the process but if people want pics I can take some when I do my next shell. I couldn't believe how much easier it was to do the above and gave much better results.
  10. I've just picked up a DF-03 to race in the park with, I've added a 19t motor but its getting quite warm after about 30 mins of running. I am using the standard 26 tooth pinion, its not too hot to touch but its quite warm...is this a problem ? Is the mesh against the spur too tight? It goes like a rocket but was a bit concerned ? Do I need a bigger pinion and if so will this effect the top end ? Also the battery was getting pretty warm too, Im just running a 4700mah NIMH but as the battert compartment is pretty snug it thought it might be that. Cheers
  11. Hello all, I am currently investigating a handful of new cars for off-road buggy racing that are TRF or could be upgraded to TRF. So far I am looking at the Sand Viper, Dark Impact or Zahhak. Now the sand viper and dark impact are not the TRF versions N.I.B, I would be purchasing the hope-ups seperately. The Zahhak appears to be still available in the N.I.B version as the TRF 201. Price varies from my Ebay research as follows. Sand Viper with seperately purchased TRF upgrades = $520.00. Dark Impact with seperately purchased TRF upgrades = $600.00 and the Zahhak bought as the TRF201 (comes with all upgrades) = $470.00. My pricing includes the radio (futaba), motor (superstock BZ) and ESC (Tamiya 104), bearings and a 15T steel pinion. Now I am still in love with my vintage cars and have upgraded them to the max (hornet and super hornet), however I am looking for a challenge that will be fun to build (moving into the next level of complexity), maintain and provide much more speed and if anything goes wrong I can still get parts. I do not want to upgrade my classic cars as they can be unforging if something breaks (parts hard to find and break easy if to much power). I have been leaning towards the Viper, however if the TRF201 is a better performer than I will head in that direction. Dark Impact was a consideration as it would be my first 4wd. Please let me know if the electrics specs are correct for interdimentional travel (greater speed). I don't really want to go brushless as the price can be let down. Let the debate begin. I love the comments and insight from members. Passion and honesty is a bonus from tamiya lovers. Regards Jeffro
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