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Found 21 results

  1. Fastrax 2222 - black wing mirror set £6.50 2x 54809 - gf01 g601 gear set yellow £10@ 54808 - g6-01 idler gears £8 54991 cc-02 alloy dampers set £65 Including 54992 cc02 alloy damper spring set 2x Tamiya 51207 2wd off road front tyres 60/19 £10@ 53619 CVA oil shocks 4 no springs black £20 2x 53619 CVA black buggy front left over £12 (handy to add to g601 for 6 shocks) 54616 cc-01 plated A parts tree £20 54679 cc-01 plated C parts tree £20 G6-01 yellow d parts chassis from kit £20 54807 g6-01 d parts smoke clear chassis £20 53927 df03 spring set £15 49577 CVA mini shock set white £15@ 9400799 B parts bag £10 6x new gold df03 springs £6 Opened df03 spring set £6 New left over springs £5 Tamiya white CVA 2 white buggy shock set, Parts w,y,x and v £15 8 white cva 2 V parts , some parts missing £8 2 black CVA 2 V parts, some parts missing £2 53056 pin type hex alloy wheel adaptor £6 8x grey , 3x black X CVA 2 parts, some missing £8 6x black X CVA 2 parts, some missing £5 Tt-02? Centre prop shaft £1 4x black CVA 2 V parts, some missing £3 Cc01 CVA black shock set complete no oil, no screws, no connectors £10 Yellow f friction parts from dt02 super fighter G £5 Front arms and dyed gears from rising fighter kit £2 Spare cc-02 prop shaft parts £1 6x Black long CVA U type CVA shock cases only, assembled but not used £4 4 wheel steering parts bag from g6-01 £5 I'm willing to do deals on multiple purchases and listen to offers, prices should be cheaper than eBay at the time of posting. Paypal gift please Anything over £15 is free UK shipping
  2. Hey All, new member here at TC, but not new to the world of RC. Built my first hobby grade RC car in 1983 at the ripe old age of 10...a Tamiya Frog. Loved that thing, even upgraded it with all the CRP goodies I could get my grubby little hands on, then a few years later bought and built an original Supershot, and loved that even more. Had so much fun with it bashing around and jumping off of everything. Later went on to build an RC helicopter, a speedboat, and a Kyosho Motorcycle as well before falling out of the hobby in the early 90's after I started to drive and became a car/automotive fanatic instead (not enough $$ to do both!). Fast forward 30 years (though I did dabble back in the RC world in 2003 or so for a couple of years to build an RC Drift car) plus 2 cross-country moves, and an International move to Manila and back, and we've landed back in my hometown where I decided to jump back into the hobby to introduce it to my son, who is now 10...the same age when I started in RC. He also likes to tinker with things, much like I did when I was a kid, so it seemed like a perfect hobby for him. Found my old drift car and gave it to him to play and tinker with, and will likely buy him a kit to build soon. In the meantime, while sorting through old stuff at my parent's house, I was elated to come across these: My original Frog and Supershot that I built in the 80's. Seeing them brought back a flood of nostalgia remembering how much fun I had with them both back in the day. Immediately, I knew I wanted to restore them, but also wanted to make the Supershot a runner. So that's how this project originally started...as a modest desire to get my Supershot running again. Unfortunately, both are missing quite a few parts, especially the Supershot. I think just before I had lost interest in these 2, I had taken apart the Supershot with some outlandish project in mind, but never put it back together. Many of the parts I removed, like the rollcage, bumper, skid plates, etc. seem to have disappeared into oblivion. I searched high and low at my parents' house for them but they were nowhere to be found. I did, however, find the original assembly instructions for both the Frog and the Supershot, as well as an original Supershot decal sheet that I never opened. Those should come in handy. So I set out to try to find the parts I was missing for the Supershot...for what started out as a modest idea to do a resto-mod build on my old Supershot. Was originally thinking mostly restoration with some upgrades, but it has quickly spiraled out of control. But more on that later. Stay tuned...
  3. Evening all, so my DF03 keen hawk has burnt out its 3rd motor in as many weeks The first two motors where old and well used, a titan clash and a team Orion. Both burnt out quite quickly after installing. I found an old silver can that seemed like it hadn’t been used and that has lasted at least 3 sessions of driving, giving up today whilst we where driving on rough dirt. my question is have I just exhausted the life span of my old motors, or is this something I can prevent? Or would a slipper clutch prevent this? I plan on getting a Tamiya torque tuned motor, but can’t find a slipper clutch in stock anywhere! Im running hobbywing 1060 with 2s Lipo.
  4. Hi Everyone! A sporting injury has given me some time off so I decided to dig out my 10 year old Keen Hawk DF03 and see if it still runs. Which to my surprise it still did, although the old NIMH batteries weren’t up to much. I also found my old TA02 which I had forgotten about. But that’s in bits. Brushless was becoming the norm when I last drove my RC cars, and I’m amazed by how much its progressed as I stumbled upon Lipo batteries as well. So the post man delivered a couple of lipos, a charger and a hobbywing 1060 and I was away, much to the delight of my 8 year old boy! so after looking through the forums, I have on route a Racing fighter DT03 so we both get to have turns I’m lucky as I live on a farm, with concrete, gavel and dirt yards plus plenty of grass. We even have a MX track so no doubt the cars will get a bashing!
  5. I was running my df03 on a carpet track for the first time and melted the rear diff on it during a run. Is there a gear diff that will work in the rear of it?
  6. Had to have one... I know it's pricey, but if I was worried about price, I'd for sure be in a different hobby. A bit of backstory... I have a thing for the Avante line. I remember staring at them in the catalog and in magazine ads (well thumbed paper catalogs and magazines, no digital back then) and just in awe of the design. There was nothing like it back then, and I'd argue there still isn't. I couldn't afford it - couldn't even afford to think about affording it - but I could look at it and dream... When it was re-released in 2011, I had to have one. Ordered and put it on the shelf, saving it for a special day when I could sit down, block out the world, and thoroughly enjoy the build. It's now been years, and I still haven't cracked it open. Not sure why honestly, I've had plenty of opportunities to build it up, but just haven't been able to bring myself to crack it open. Now it's been on the shelf for so long, it's kind of a fixture in the shop....the longer it goes, the more I hesitate the open it. Enter the Vanquish "VQS"... the Avante's lighter, simpler brother. Same driveline, same basic suspension design, and none of the nostalgic hang-ups preventing me from building it. I have zero qualms about building and tinkering this one. I had one in the past that I picked up in rough shape. I restored it as best as I could and ended up selling it w/o even running. This one will see some running, though probably very light driveway testing. The fraternal twins... And Cousin Eddie. I had the Aero Avante too at one point, but never really warmed to it and sold it off - didn't quite fit in the family with the basic chassis. The DF03 Avante is just cool enough to stay and has been a shelf queen since assembly. Eventually I'd like to display all three somewhere. Opening the box...no blister packs, but there's always that Tamiya new kit smell. Nothing like it! Two box wrenches! Not sure if that's a screw up or intentional, but now I'm up to at least 100 of these things floating around. I've got a box full here somewhere, plus they end up randomly scattered around the house. I find them in the oddest places. Digging right into the build. Interesting that the B parts tree has a unique textured finish to it. Very different from the usual ABS gloss of most kits, and the other parts. Hard to capture on camera, but it's noticeably different. Possibly the smallest 1/10 gear diff I've ever built. I thought the King Cab ball diff was tiny, I think this is even smaller. For a second, I debated tearing the diff out of the King Cab to compare, but only for a second. I get easily distracted. Slathered inside with Tamiya's AW grease as recommended. Tamiya sometimes does odd things. The bearings on the diff outputs are enormous compared to the usual 5x11's, but the counter gear rides on teeny 5x8 bushings... Weird. Granted it's quite an old design. Not interested in bushings, I replaced them with bearings of course. On a side note, when I was 15 and building my first kit, I asked Dad if I could use some of his grease I found in the garage. He recommended the Penzoil 705 tub, and I ran with it. I've been using this same tub now for nearly 30 years! I have no clue how old the grease is, but I know dad used it on his '65 Thunderbird so most likely it's older than I am. Works fantastic, my OG TA02T used this grease, and the gears still look great after years and years of running. I'll probably hand this stuff down to my kids. I brush a light coating on the gear surfaces and it runs super smooth. And that's as far as I got. Not as far as I would like, but dad bedtime duties called. Next up is the center ball diff... Between "home schooling" and the holidays, build time is super limited right now...not to mention I'm building this the old fashioned way - no power drivers, dremels, or anything. Just a set of hand tools, an X-acto and some sandpaper - the way any vintage kit should be built.
  7. Okay guys... I know I can rely on you for some support here. I need some help on which spur gear and pinion to use. So, my lunchbox seems to run so so well, no problems there. However, I also have DF03 and DF03ra, and it's with these two that I need the help... Both are second hand, and I've stripped them down to the last screw for a thorough clean and refurb... Came across a few issues, which I've enjoyed trying to resolve, such as the previous owner adding 2 thrust bearings to one diff joint, which obviously when tightened compacted and crushed the d5 t part, nightmare to try and dig this out! So, the plan is for me and my two sons (8 and 4) to go bashing on grass, tarmac car parks and flat dirt roads... Ill use the LB, 8 year old will be in control of the df03 and the 4 year old the df03ra. So we don't need anything super fast, just fun, and controllable! I only want to use the equipment and components I currently have... Nothing new, and get the best set up. The df03 can be the better of the two, to be fair, my eldest lad is probably nearly as capable as I am! Both cars have standard stock wheels and tyres. This is what I have: 1 x stock silver can, 1 x sport tuned black can. Spur gears 3 x 82T, 2 x 78T, 1 x 75T. Pinion 26, 25, 29, 32. Slipper clutch x 2. Hobbywing 1060 esc, tamiya 105bk esc. Alturn AAS-700std servo, tamiya tsu-03 servo. Running 7.2 3000 NiMH Hope you can help with the best set up using what I currently have, it's all really confused me to be honest. Thanks in advance guys... Hope you all have a good weekend.
  8. Just clearing and sorting the post-build spares and odds-and-ends from my DF03 build and found I still had part MD4, the Spur Gear Bushing In the kit manual, it goes in during step 6. But because I used a slipper clutch, I didn't use MD4 as it's not shown on the slipper instructions. Is that 100% right? Looking at it, it looks like MD4 sits inside the gearbox plate and helps the gear shaft 'sit' securely. And that it would still be needed with the slipper, because that gap in the gearbox plate is still there? Or does the tension of the slipper spring do the same job, removing the need for MD4? Would appreciate anyone who's previously completed the slipper option giving me a 'yay' or 'nay' on MD4! Cheers, Matt
  9. Having completed the DF03 build, I've got a few bits left from the spur gear bag. I know the 78T spur is for the DF03, it's only a spare because I used the slipper clutch and its 82T spur But what about the 85T and the smaller, pinion-shaped gear? They're marked as 'not used' in the manual, but does anything use them? Are they useful to anyone, or just for the bin? I also got a random gear bag in a spares job-lot eBay win from Japan. I'm pretty sure it contains: A) 3x 85T spur gear (from 51248, not used in DF03) B 3x smaller pinion shaped gear (from51248, not used in DF03) C) 3x 78T spur gear (from 51248, as used in DF03) There are also two black coloured parts, which I'm pretty sure are the same as (B) and (C) above, but in black. Does anyone know what they are, and if they are of any use? Cheers, Matt
  10. Hello everyone - I'm on the hunt for a decal sheet for a Tamiya DF-03 Keen Hawk resto (Sheet part number: 9495502) Currently I'm in discussion with a couple of companies who are looking at re-printing these using a scan of the original decal sheet (which I've attached if anyone else benefits from it) A decent reproduction of the sheet would be good however if you have, or know of anyone who might have this decal sheet and is willing to sell it, I'll pay decent money or sell a kidney for it! Many Thanks! - Tom
  11. Looking for a couple of 3Racing Aluminium Rear Gear Box Stiffener For Tamiya DF-03 (p/n. DF03-22/LB) Prefer UK seller, but will buy from overseas if needed. Thanks.
  12. I am selling a brand new set of Tamiya DF03 Hop Up shocks part number 53926. I've got buyers regret and can't justify keeping them so looking for what I paid for them. £50 delivered to the UK with PayPal gift or buyer pays difference.
  13. I'm letting go of this rare kit $300, tam 92200, it even has drivers cockpit detail parts, very cool and unique. 94 Castrol Celica WRC PM me for shipping cost, USPS first class or priority whichever is cheaper for the buyer. Shipping weight is going to be close to 8lbs including box and packing material. Unboxing video credits to rcmart https://youtu.be/2mhAMxfAJSA For more info on this kit, see the following official link:https://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-kits-30/off-road-buggies-36450/rc-castrol-celica-94-92200 Thanks for looking, Dave Paypal or fund transfer via bank (Wire transfers - domestic)
  14. Some time ago I bought a parts lot on an eBay auction for some very specific parts. The rest is currently available for sale. I open to negotiations on the prices. Shipping will be free within Europe and UK. Here we go: Tamiya TA04 4mm Clamp Type Alum Wheel Hub (53570) - 10€ Buggy bumper (58107) and misc DT-01 parts - 3€ Screws(84175) - 2€ Hobbyking Tamiya male to XT-60 female adapter -1€ TA04 stabilizers (a set of yellow - soft ones and a single rear blue - hard, 53441, 53442) -5€ 3,5cm Outdrives and 4,5cm dogbones x2 (I think those are from TL01) - 2€ Plastic big body dampers (I think they are either Kyosho or Carson) - 5€ Aluminum TC dampers (I think they are from carson) - 5€ Two of them have longer ends attached. Front uprights (I think those are carson for TL01 or DF-03) - 10€ DT-01 steering arm and DT-02 upright and misc screws - 2€ Modelcraft aluminum servo horn (3cm) - 2€ Tamiya Led stopper/holder - 2€ Tamiya female plugs 1€
  15. Hi all. I'm looking for a new and original sticker set for the Dark Impact DF03MS. Will pay or happy to trade. I currently have an original vintage set of Thunder Dragon decals and an original vintage set of Thunder shot decals. Both sets are new and sealed. Please let me know if you can help.
  16. Hi all. I'm looking for the above parts for a DF03. Ever since I knew they existed I've been trying to find some. Please let me know if you have a new tree of them you are willing to part with.
  17. Hi all. I've recently painted 2 shells for my dark impact although what I've learnt I feel can be applied to most if not all lexan window masking. Although I have only painted 2 shells I found what I believe the easiest and most accurate way of getting window masking right first time. On the first shell I cut lots of strips of tamiya masking tamiya which not only took ages but also found it wasn't particularly accurate. On the second shell I decided a different approach using the following steps: 1) I got myself a sheet of tamiya masking tape (part no. 87130) 2) Cut the windows out from the bodyshell sticker kit 3) Leaving the backing on the stickers, I rolled a small piece of regular sticky tape onto itself and sandwiched it between the backing of the window sticker and the non adhesive (yellow) side of the masking tape 4) I then cut out around the windows using them as a template and using a scalpel 5) Once all 3 were cut I could remove the undamaged window stickers (if I decided to use them at a later date). I was then left with perfect fit window masks to stick on the inside of the lexan Sadly I didn't think to take pictures of the process but if people want pics I can take some when I do my next shell. I couldn't believe how much easier it was to do the above and gave much better results.
  18. Hi all. I've personally never been a huge fan of the blue hop ups and noticed that tamiya do a silver version of the heatsink bars for the DF03 (92230). I've had a good look around but struggling to find any in stock. Do any of you happen to have any or details of where I might be able to get some please? I'm based in the UK but if anyone could forward to me if a site won't ship directly if that would be a great help.
  19. Slightly odd one this I know, but looking at getting a modern 4WD kit to build. The on road thing didn't really stick so I'm selling the TA01 I fixed up. Been looking at TT02B or DF03. There's £50 price difference between the two but it looks like I'd need to spend at least that on the TT02B to get it how I'd like it (bearings, driveshafts, steering arms, metal diff set etc) and it has ****** all ground clearance which I don't like. DF03 looks ace but I'm not racing and I can't be bothered with slipper clutches and ball diffs. So, does anyone with a DF03 know if the fitment is similar to other buggies with geared diffs? Could you drop the DF02 metal diff set in there? Thanks
  20. For sale :- NIP Tamiya K block tyres. Front and Rears. 54185 & 54186 £15 plus £3.90 second class recorded delivery UK.
  21. I've just picked up a DF-03 to race in the park with, I've added a 19t motor but its getting quite warm after about 30 mins of running. I am using the standard 26 tooth pinion, its not too hot to touch but its quite warm...is this a problem ? Is the mesh against the spur too tight? It goes like a rocket but was a bit concerned ? Do I need a bigger pinion and if so will this effect the top end ? Also the battery was getting pretty warm too, Im just running a 4700mah NIMH but as the battert compartment is pretty snug it thought it might be that. Cheers
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