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Found 10 results

  1. Back in 2012, the world was a different place. For starters, I did not have a Tamiya Striker - until late in the year: Apparently, I had a hankering for something very different, and the Striker was unlike many things before or since. The "sharp wind-cheating Formula 1-style body" [- Tamiya promotional video] and the desire to "hit the trail and strike out the competition" [- also the Tamiya promotional video] led me to acquire one. It was put together during my time in post-secondary school, which meant minimal effort to get it going. The only chassis modification I made at the time was adding the Team CRP front chassis brace and bumper set for the Futaba FX-10. Stickers, different tires, and a painted helmet were all I needed to "enjoy" the Striker experience. I ran that car for two years, after which its run time became sporadic (I even half-heartedly listed it for sale in 2016), to be resurrected in 2021. For all that time, the car retained its controversial front swing-axle suspension. Accompanied by a heavily rear-biased weight distribution and pure friction dampers, the understeer was very tangible. Initially, I accepted it as part of driving a Tamiya Striker, but over time, the intrigue of a double-wishbone conversion at the front end lingered. The time finally arrived when I pushed the Striker a bit too hard and broke both front suspension arms: My wallet made the decision for me to finally abandon the stock front suspension setup: not only were front suspension arms scarce, but they were expensive! It was cheaper to attempt modifications than to shell out for NOS parts, and so the trials of customization and testing commenced. The first iteration used Grasshopper II parts: Citing similarities between the Striker and Grasshopper II, I came to learn that about the only front-end components those two models had in common were wheels and tires. I did manage to make it functional, if not entirely useful... And so begins the modification of a humble Tamiya Striker!
  2. Ok. Let me know what you all think about this. I have Supershot, Frog and Wild One renos on the go and have recently purchased diffs for both the Supershot and the Frog. It struck me as i thought about swinging both these diffs into their respective uses that no had one ever bothered with the Wild One in this regard so i experimented. I had to bore out the Wild One gearbox to take the new outdrive bearings and as i had the tool from the Supershot diff set i did this. (The hole saw will not go all the way on one one side, you'll need to flip it and start the original procedure from the outside.) I tried the Frog diff first with a standard Wild One counter gear but the gearbox spacing was wrong so then i tried the Supershot and it worked but there was rub from the pinion side of the counter gear. My solution was to swing in a 49 tooth Frog counter gear and it was as smooth as pie. I haven't run this yet but it will allow the use of the Frog universal shafts too. So provided i haven't sent you all up a certain creek without a certain paddle i'm hoping this may solve diff problems with this model. Apologies, i never mentioned the diffs were MIP.
  3. I'm going to rebuild the diffs in my XV01 using the guide provided on thercracer.com Team Associated Green Slime is recommended to help stop leaks, but it isn't available at any of my usual places. There's a few other products that seem similar, however I have no idea what the Green Slime is beyond it being referred to as a shock o-ring lube. There's: Tuning Haus Shock O-Ring Grease Team Losi O-Ring Grease GMade Shock Grease Arrowmax O-Ring Grease Sweep Green Grease Does anyone know which would be a good substitute? I'm guessing they're all probably similar stuff?
  4. Any commercially available sealed gear diffs for WR02? Any that will fit, with or without modification? Anyone try sealing a stock one with gasket sealer or anything? (I started a couple of these as an experiment, project interrupted- will share results) How about a real spool? (not locked) Thanks in advance
  5. hi everyone who reads this, I own a tamiya m05 v2 pro and the standard diff (not the ball diff) suddendly started knocking and it slows the car down. I took my diff/transmission apart and gave it a quick clean but it didn't help. What should I do? take the car apart and clean it really good? just buy the standard ball diff? or is it not the diff but something else? I hope someone can help me
  6. Hello everybody, I am selling a still in box Tamiya Manta Ray Ball Diff set (53070). I was between using this and the TA-03 ball diff but went with the latter because of the weight. Price is 35€ with free shipping throughout Europe. If you think the price is too high make me an offer.
  7. Hey All Some of you may have seen my eBay listing for this item but i figured i would try to sell it on the forum as well. I have been parting out my ORV related items to fund other builds. Up for sale is a great package for someone with a Re-release Frog or Brat or Vintage Frog, Brat, Monster Beetle, or Blackfoot. Selling a very lightly used MIP Ball differential that has less that 3 runs on it! These Ball diffs only began selling at the start of this year. You will get: - Assembled MIP Tamiya Super ball Diff Part Number: #16210 - Remaining MIP Ball diff grease - Tamiya ORV Gearbox with all mounting and closure screws - 16 Tooth pinion with set screw and matching spur gear - Tamiya gearbox pinon gear cover with screws - Assembled Tamiya Universal Shaft Kit Part Number 53908 (dog bone ends are in the boot so you cannot see them in the picture) - Tamiya rear axle shaft joint boots - Tamiya rear plastic hubs with drive pins The re-release Monster Beetle and Blackfoot now come with the universal shaft kit. The re-release Frog and Brat need the universal shaft kit to take advantage of the MIP Ball differential. If you have a Re-release Frog or Brat or any vintage Frog, Brat, Monster Beetle, or Blackfoot, this would be everything you'd need to take advantage of this new ball differential setup. Price is $105 PayPal'd and shipped to the US.
  8. As per title looking for information on options, hopups and tuning info for the Marui Big Bear. MIP or whoever else. Tried google Found some intel but there is little that got documented. Fotos, Build Info, old instructions highly welcome. Got a v1 myself with mint original gearbox interested if I can still make a runner out of it for a decent price with alternativ parts. thx
  9. Hi All, I've just bought myself a re-re Brat kit (supplied without ESC) and am in the process of building it up and wanted to know what options I have for locking the diff and possibly strengthening the transmission. I've done some research and seen various methods, so far the faviourite one being to drill and tap the diff output cups and thread lock an M3 bolt down the centre to hold the cups together, as you'd find in a ball diff on any other car, this would have an added benefit of helping prevent the casings spreading under power. The intermediate gear in the transmission is very narrow, how do these hold up? I had intended to run a mild brushless setup, more for better run times than outright power so bought a Turnigy 3000kv motor/esc/card combo from HK, but having seen the weak looking intermediate gear I'm now having my doubts. I've got the option of running the stock silver can motor and a Tamiya 101 ESC (Already had it, hence buying the kit without an ESC) along with a low voltage alarm/5000mah Lipo. Any advice welcome
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