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Found 8 results

  1. Hi Folks Ayrshire Radio Controlled Car Club is based at mosshill industrial estate and is a place for novice and experienced racers to race we have 3 purpose built indoor tracks for onroad, offroad and drift both our onroad and offroad tracks are equipped with amb timing equipement we run all kinds of 1/10th electric from buggies, trucks, touring car, mini chassis, F1 and drift new this year is the tamiya holiday buggy class which is an affordable entry level for newcomers and also a fun class for the more experienced racers we currently run on a monday and friday night from 6.45pm till 9.45pm we are holding a open track day on the 10th of march would be great to see some new faces weather you have just popped down for a look or to run everyone is welcome please note if you are using lipo batteries these must be charged in a lipo bag cost is £10 to run all 3 tracks all day any other questions feel free to contact me or post on this page
  2. Hey! Not many here may be into drifting, but since I my my old RC Drift forum obviously broke down the day I wanted to upload this, here we go. This car started out life as a run-of-the-mill TA-05. I purchased it several years ago, with the idea of converting it to CS. (Making the rear wheels turn faster, recreating a RWD car that requires you to countersteer constantly, instead of steering into a corner, with a 4WD car.) Long story short, it was one hacked together dumpster fire of a chassis and never saw action. Then RWD came around, and I decided to go for it. And once again, I couldn't get something sensible out of it, and it sat on my shelf, unfinished. Last year, I brought it back from project badword, and ordered a bunch of shiny aluminum parts. I used my newfound kwonledge to design custom chassis plates, which I had lasercut by a local company, and created this bespoke car. It took some tinkering to get it to it's current state, which I finally deem presentable. The transparent blue Special edition parts are my main reason for not going with another conversion kit. Combined with blue alloy and pink hardware it makes for a really unique eyecatcher. The cut-out logo is inspired by the fijon TA-05 Kit, which was one of the first conversion kits I looked into, and another reason why I couldn't settle for anything else. If you wonder what "Rubik's Cube!" is supposed to mean, I made it up as a team name, when my brother was still into RC. I love old school japanese team names, like Magician or Mind Control, that have no obvious relation to cars. And while listening to "Abracadabra" under the shower, I had the idea for "Rubik's Cube!". It's retro, a toy, a mystery, and spells out RC when abbreviated. Bingo. The battery is raised for increased weight shift(It can also be mounted in the stock position), and the steering now uses Eagle racing TA-05 VDF parts with stock TA-05 mounting points. Therefore, the front bulkhead had to be replaced with this mashup of parts, that allows the steering arms to move inside of it. The rear suspension has been replaced with EA Streetjam R31 style TA-05 parts. Also, there's no droop limit and the TRF dampers have been bored up to 1.5mm holes. 13,5T Hobbywing JuStock brushless combo Futaba 9450 servo Sanwa MX-V transmitter and receiver SkyRC gyro
  3. My local track has put down a small carpet drift track, and it seems to be gaining traction (heh!) among our club members. At the same time, I happened across a TA03F Pro David Jun for a decent-enough price. The car was a little rough, but it seemed to be all there. However, I didn't need another touring car, now did I? But a dedicated drift car would be nice! So a little money was exchanged, and a few days later this showed up at my doorstep: Like I said, it's a little rough. The previous owner has cut off the front bumper, for some reason, and did some smoothing on the front gearbox. One thing that the previous owner also did was to hollow out the unused rear gearbox section, probably for electronics. I actually don't mind that, as I was planning to do that anyway, and it's done quite neatly. I'm not sure if the neon-yellow stabilzer bars are stock, but I suppose I could always get other ones, or strip the coating off of them if they start annoying me. It has a front one-way, and a rear ball diff. Right, time to start digging in! First things first, removing the body posts. It came with a REALLY short set of front body posts, and a set of normal-length front body posts on the rear. This meant that in order to fit the Skyline body I have planned for it, I need different body posts. @Fuijo had a set of bent-backwards body posts left over from his TB01, and I wanted to see if they fit. Which they do, but they're on inside-out. The little square nub is supposed to slot into the rear shock tower. Which it doesn't, since it faces the other way. Fine with me, this also works, and with all the material hitting the plastic shock tower it seems snug enough. Time will tell, but I suppose this works for now. (Also note the purple hardware used to mount the shocks. Ugh!) Since I don't have the manual for the car (yet), I'm a little apprehensive about tearing the car apart. So I wanted to focus on placing the electronics first. Since it's a drift car on a small track, it won't need a lot of power. - Savöx servo (this type basically goes into every car I have) - Hobbywing QuicRun 1060WP ESC - OrangeRX GR300 receiver - Tamiya Torque Tuned motor (because I had one. I also have a Sport Tuned if the TT turns out to lack the power needed) - 4500 mAh shorty 2S lipo. Why a shorty? Well, I couldn't fit a square lipo pack in the stock battery 'box'. So I got creative: Yup, that fits between the servo and the rear bulkhead! (Note the spacers moving the servo forward). Now, how to strap the battery in.... I don't have the room to build a release mechanism, and tape is just not very elegant.. Velcro works, but since the chassis has all these cutouts you don't have a lot of surface area to stick velcro to. But what about a small styrene place, screwed in through the holes left by the original battery box? I bought some carbon-fiber wrap today. I figured this would look better than the stark white styrene on an otherwise black chassis. On this plate I then stuck some velcro tape, and the same along the bottom of the battery. Works really well, and fits neatly under the belt. Next time we'll focus on placing the ESC and receiver, and sorting out the mess of wiring. After that I'd like to peek inside the gearboxes. As far as I can tell you can take both ends of the car off without disturbing the two CF plates holding them together, and I'd like to see what shape everything is in.
  4. speedy_w_beans

    3Racing Sakura D3 CS

    This seems like a nicely designed, purpose-built drift chassis. RCMart is listing them for $127 USD preorder right now, which seems like an amazing price considering its specs. It ticks all the right boxes with front weight bias, near zero Ackerman steering, locked diffs, and rear axle overdrive (countersteer). The suspension has been designed with a lot of adjustability and steering angle in mind. http://os.3racing.hk...kits_web_key=18 The rear diffuser seems like an unnecessary flourish; hopefully that isn't part of the structure and can be left off. I'm also curious what bodies will fit with the motor pushing the front bumper forward. This pretty much obsoletes any TT01 front motor/dual motor conversion project I was thinking about, and seriously undercuts the TA05VDF and TB03VDS. I've had good success ordering 3Racing parts from RCMart, so this might very well be my next drift chassis. -Paul
  5. leeroy33

    enRoute jxr

    Check it out guys, picked this up the other day, mostly complete minus tx and rx. Was at a good price, but parts are nearly impossible to find. Think I got the few missing bits sorted. Never been near a drift rc before, let alone counter steer. Should be fun for me and my boy.
  6. This is a brand new unused 3racing Drift Sakura CS3 Sport chassis. Complete with brand new body, aluminium upgrades, brand new spare set of carpet drift tyres for club racing, has box, manual, and all the spares that I took off when I changed them for alloy upgrade parts. Upgrades are ; 4 pulleys, front one way, belt tensioner, steering linkage, sharper angled CV joints, belt pulley holder, motor heatsink(fan compatible). Its fully ball-raced and theres a few spares too like 3 new belts. Receipt is included too. Everything is brand new and unused, it was set-up to drift and has a CS of 1.25, it can easily be put back to a CS of 2.14 like it was out the box, all the parts to do this are included. If your new to drifting then I recommend leaving the CS as is until you get the hang of it. Shocks are coil over threaded damper I got them set up just right for drifting, obviously you can adjust to your liking if different. As you can see its front motor mounted, it is designed primarily for drifting, it is not a standard chassis tweaked to drift, it is drift specific. CS is adjustable and so is the camber etc. Please note this is for everything in the photos except the electrics. The pinion gear will come with it though once I remove it from the motor at point of sale. Genuine reason for sale; bought to drift at Birminghams Radshape but as i now run a business I work most Saturdays so its just collecting dust and going to waste. As I previously said, this has never been run and you can see by the pictures, theres not a single mark on the underneath of the chassis. Any question please ask. £120 Cheers
  7. Mad Ax

    Toyota Chaser on TT02D

    In a departure from all recent Mad Ax build threads, and in the words of Blue Peter, here's one I made earlier. All my other projects got put on hold recently when the local club announced a drift night. Usually I just grab a battered old shell for drifting, but this time I thought I'd go all-out - especially as the club also does a friendly "best drift shell" competition, and I always see it as my personal mission to take the challenge to one of my good race buddies, who has a collection of impressive drift shells that he's painted himself or bought in from others. So the project began with a TT02D Skyline that I bought at last year's Iconic Revival. I built it almost as soon as I got home so I could run it at the August Bank Holiday Iconic meet at WLRC. It poured with rain, but I was foolish and ran the car anyway. This might explain why the brushless ESC stopped working: Anyway, since then it's sat on the shelf, various attempts at repairing the ESC failed, so - apart from finishing the boxart silver Skyline shell and putting it up on the shelf to look nice - I had pretty much forgotten it existed until the club's Call To Action came along. The first thing I figured I needed was a 200mm shell. I was going to post a thread about this a few weeks ago, but basically, I'm bored of 190mm touring cars. Tamiya's super-scale looks are great for a factory-stock replica, but add a set of deep dish wheels and suddenly they look stupid. I wanted a proper wide stance on this drift car, so there was no alternative - I had to have a 200mm shell. A visit to Hobbybase in Westbury produced a HPI Weld JZX100 shell. It came with full light buckets, a hefty decal set and an enormous spoiler. Perhaps not the best-looking drifter ever made, or the most scale-realistic shell from HPI, but it would serve my purposes. Besides, large flat surfaces are ideal for a custom decal job. It took me a long time to settle on a colour scheme, but eventually I realised I was already a third of the way to a very impressive put table if I matched the car to an existing support / team vehicle. So, silver and blue is my official new team colours for 2016. And as Easter Friday approached, the weather improved enough to get some solid time in the paint booth that my lovely wife made for me: A couple of hours later and I had a fully-painted shell, and some light buckets, all shiny and chrome. I refrained from spraying chrome paint over my teeth and laughing maniacally. But only just. And so the project was well on the way to knocking my pit-buddy off the top spot of the "best shell" rostrum. to be continued...
  8. Hey all. The inner mad scientist in me is brewing. I have a crazy idea for a build. get this, a TRF201 Based, Mid-rear motor RWD Drift car. After seeing many builds in regards to people doing RWD conversions on TA05s and Yokomo DIBs, with their motors being shifted to the rear-end, i thought... "Wait, wouldn't it be just as easy to use a Buggy transmission back there?" After chatting with a few of my buddies down at the local club, The idea stuck. I decided to tear down my TRF201, and get to measuring holes and mounting points for suspension, to make a one-of-a-kind RWD Drifter like no other... Based upon a buggy transmission! There are a few questions i have though. 1: In regards to the Transmission, i see the TRF201 shares a lot with the FF03, TA06 and the XV01's front transmission. Now, i'd love to know if the top shaft from the FF03 is cross-compatible with the TRF201. Why you ask? Well, a locked upper shaft would be fantastic for this build, since the TRF201 uses a slipper clutch, which to be honest, won't suit the purposes of drifting all too well. I know the DN01 doesn't come with a slipper, so if the DN01 and FF03 share a common top shaft, it'll mean my options for gear drive (or in this case, belt drive, using the VENOM belt drive gearing) could very well be possible, since the FF03 uses a standardised gear mount, which the VENOM belt drive requires to fit. 2: Is there a solid spool that'll suit the TRF201/TA06/XV01 Front trans that'll drop into the TRF201's transmission? 3: Do you guys have a good source for small cuts of Aluminium sheeting that'll post to Australia? 3mm preferrably. I have a supplier of CF sheeting which'll do cuts of any carbon fiber parts, but only in large quantities (10 or more), in 3K twill, 3mm thick. If this turns out successful, I may very well figure out a way to sell these things as proper kits. The things i do know are this: 1: The wheelbase must be 235mm long to match the TA05VDF's wheelbase, and the wheelbase of standard 1/10 TC bodies. 2: Due to the lack of rear traction, weight bias needs to be shifted towards the back, or closer to the middle. 3: It must be able to take a standard LiPo, and all electronics needed to operate a car. 4: It must contain mostly Tamiya parts.