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Found 20 results

  1. Good News!! another build thread! Another buggy, and this one takes it right back to the first car I bought when i re-found RC 15 odd years ago, The DT-02. That took the form of the Madcap 2.0, a tribute buggy. https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=71854&id=19798 For this build i want to set a few ground rules: Push the limit of the chassis - how good can it be? Go big or go home - nothing is too much for this build. Only Tamiya parts allowed - (bar bearings, electrics & one exception) That said, NO BLUE Minimal modifications - use off the shelf parts where possible A lot of the parts collecting has already happened, so this might well move pretty fast.......
  2. ... or, A Tale of Two Beetles. Hi everyone, this is my first post on TC but I’ve been poking around these forums for a few years. I’m an old guy who’s been around RC for a very long time. Beginning with RC planes with my dad in early 1970's then purchase my first surface RC vehicle around '79 or '80 - a newly released Tamiya Sand Scorcher ordered from the Tower Hobbies catalog. The car was built and finished mostly box-art except that I replaced French Blue with Orange and added to the headlights tiny incandescent bulbs from the model railroad hobby. I sold that car sometime in the mid ‘80’s – wish I had taken some photos but no. So, a few months back I picked up a Blitzer Beetle and while building that car, I got the idea to recreate the Scorcher from my early days. Of course, the 2010 Sand Scorcher re-release kits are available again but this time around I want to build the car around a lighter and more modern chassis with A-arm suspension, a gear diff, etc. I want something that looks like a Scorcher but with better performance. After considering a few different chassis options, I landed on the DT-02 – or more specific, the Holiday Buggy version. If I had been aware of the differences, I’d chosen the Sand Viper version instead. For only 50 bucks more, the Viper comes with oil dampers, adjustable camber links, metal out-drives, axles and dogbones, a 540 motor, and full bearings. It also includes a lexan body and wing that likely will fit many different off-road buggies in the collection. However, completely ignorant of the differences, I went cheap and got the Holiday Buggy – well okay, so be it. So, the plan is to paint the Blitzer body similar to my old Scorcher (using TS-98 Pure Orange) and recreate the alternate livery shown in the back of the original SS manual using MCI’s reproduction decal sheets. The Blitzer chassis will be as standard – no mods. For the Scorcher, the DT-02 will receive new custom arms to permit track width and wheelbase to match the original Scorcher. The goal here is to minimize chassis mods; alter the track and wb with arms alone if possible. Of course, the body will be finished as close to box-art as possible using French Blue and MCI’s reproduction decals. I have a special modern 2.2 wheel and tire package in mind for this car that will pay homage to the vintage car (well, I think it’s special anyway). The new DT-02 arms and rear guard assembly have been printed and the initial chassis mockup is nearly finished at this point. I’m just test fitting printed parts, adjusting the "dampers" and sorting the body mounts. I’ll post more detailed info on that in the next update. We’re approaching spring and with more moderate temps and low humidity, it’s time to get those bodies prepped and painted. Both will receive some body work, two colors plus clear and polish so this will take some time. So, this will be a two-for-one build thread and I hope y’all will check back later and watch what happens.
  3. Hi all, I've recently started my DT-03 Racing Fighter build, and I'm incorporating a number a Tamiya and after-market Hop-Up options (as one does). One such upgrade is the Tamiya DT-02 Ball Differential Set (#53863); despite being designated for a DT-02, this is listed as a upgrade for the DT-03 chassis. After assembling the diff itself and installing it into the gearbox assembly, I noticed the drive cups that came with the ball diff set were considerably smaller than the kit supplied drive cups. I've attached a photo below to illustrate this. The trouble is, this make it impossible to use the kit supplied dog bones (they simply won't fit in the small drive cups), and I can't swap the larger kit supplied drive cups as the interface to the differential itself is completely different. Now, I do have on order a set if steel alloy CVD drive shafts from GPM (part number DT3264SC), which I purchased prior to starting this build. The reason is because I will be running a 10.5T brushless motor with a 2S LiPo in this car and it's my understanding the stock plastic drive cups and dog bones become a weak point when power goes up. However, in light of this recent discovery, my question is will the GPM CVD drive shaft set work with the smaller drive cups of this ball differential? If not, what CVDs do I need to source that will fit these smaller drive cups? Should I be looking to replace the small drive cups with something larger instead? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. Cheers! Michael
  4. Hopefully this is in the right place, it makes more sense than in the 'Builds' section since it's really just a modification... We've been through a lot together, me and my £50 DT-02. A lot of batteries, that is. It's probably my favourite runner. They're tough as old boots and have really predictable handling, with a tight turning circle, decent ground clearance and good weight balance for jumping! Problem is, there aren't many on-road-suitable tyre options for the DT-02/03 buggies. There's the Carson All-Terrain wheel set, which has sold out pretty-much everywhere during the Covid-19 lockdown. These are generally black or chrome wheels in a design which I don't particularly like, though, and you're kinda stuck with them. The other option is the front wheels of a Tamiya QD touring car from the 2000's, which had twin 1150 bearing front wheel fittings, based on a touring-car sized 52mm rim. Then you're kind of stuck with the CC01 range of tyres, or some crawler tyres, which aren't really appropriate as they're generally too soft. There is the pricey option of Tamiya Street Rover wheels and tyres, but your tyre options are limited and as said, this is an expensive route! So what about hex front wheels? There's this option from GPM which I tried originally: Unfortunately, they just don't work. The wheel nut still has to be tight against the wheel, clamping it in place. The only way the wheels can 'freewheel' is to back the nut off a couple of turns. Then you'll find the nuts will fall off when you run it. Not good, sorry GPM. Some internet searching led me full-circle back to the TamiyaClub website, where a 2017 post from member 'Pininy' (who sadly doesn't seem to be registered on the forum) listed some parts and a small modification to convert the front of a DT-02 to hex-fitment. Massive thanks to him (or her??) I'm just re-documenting how this all goes together below. Parts required: 3Racing FGX-107 - Sakura FGX Parts Part G 3Racing FGX-124 - Heavy Duty Wheel Axle For 3racing Sakura FGX 4x 850 ball-bearings (5 x 8 x 2.5mm) 2x 2x10mm pin (for hex) - Tamiya 50594 2x 5mm ball connectors - Tamiya 50592 4x 5mm ball end (short) - Tamiya 50797 Option parts I used: Tamiya 53828 DT-02 Turnbuckle Suspension and Tie-Rod 2x 22mm hinge pin & e-clips 2x 1.5mm x 3mm spacer So these are the current hop-up tyres I had fitted after wearing-out the kit ones last year: I think they have a little bit of life left in them if I use them on grass! Here are the wheels and tyres I want to fit: DF-03 front and rear wheels, which are obviously 12mm hex fit. Fitting the rear wheels of course is very straightforward: And there are no issues with clearance etc. The front end has to come apart next: There's quite a lot of wear on that little pin-screw which holds the front upright in the C-hub. I decided to replace these after finding that 3x22mm hinge-pins fit, more on that later. You need to modify the front C-hubs to get enough clearance for the new knuckles. I did a quick and simple job with a Dremel, you could likely do it much neater if you had the inclination! You can even see all the black debris from the grinding tool un-ceremoniously sprayed up the side of the body! Here are the new parts required: They go together like so, I have fitted the 5mm ball connector to the pin closer to the axle for maximum steering angle: I strongly suspect that the axles can be the commonly-found M-Chassis items from Tamiya, but I didn't have one to-hand in order to check sizing etc. But they fit in exactly the same manner, so I can see no reason why it wouldn't work. This is it all fitted. I used the 3x22mm hinge pin, retained the small metal shim at the base of the knuckle (as per DT-02 standard instructions) and required that 1.5mm blue spacer to take out the vertical travel of the pin. At this point I fitted both sides and re-connected the steering tie-rods. Unfortunately, I had an un-holy amount of toe-out, as the arms were now too long (the ball connector has moved inwards from the stock items). I replaced the adjuster ends from the 53828 hop-up set with 4nr of the standard 5mm short adjusters, like so: Ta-da: Then it was time for wheels-on. I haven't taken any pictures but it's naturally the same as the rear-end, 2x10mm pin goes into the hole on the axle, 12mm hex over the top (included in the 3Racing parts) then the wheel and the locknut. And this image hopefully shows why you have to modify the front C-hubs for the knuckle to clear on full-lock: Then you're ready to go: This opens up a huge aftermarket for optional wheels and tyres, especially at 2.2" buggy size. I have some road slicks on order which I will fit to this and update with some pictures. Crucially: there are no clearance issues front or rear, and whilst you have a smidge of added ground-clearance with this setup, the chassis still bottoms-out before the dampers reach full travel, thereby protecting those precious shock towers!
  5. Some pics of my DT-02 with a McAllister modified coupe body. I chose this body to use in place of my Holiday Buggy body for bashing since I don't want to destroy the HB body. The color is Spazstix candy dynamite purple, backed with Spazstix mirror chrome, backed with Spazstix ultimate black backer. Looks like a metallic black cherry. The wheel selection is just goofing around from what wheels I have. I don't have any other bearing mount front wheels and am open for suggestion for a set of offroad wheels / tires to go with this body. With the way I have it now, it looks like it's ready for a tractor pull. I may use @Wooders28 idea and swap the front to hex mount for more wheel options. (Haven't cut the body posts yet because I have another body to fit to this chassis)
  6. Frankenstein is a doctor fascinated by life, who decides to create a living creature from a human remains ... That's what happened in my mind while I was checking the remains of Tamiya parts ! Remember, I found on the web a batch of 3 models and some additional parts for less than 100€ ... I builted the GH II EVO II, then the Sand Rover beach buggy ... But what about the rest? Target is to do something with the smallest budget as possible. Let's go! The starting point: To narrow the width, I simply reduced the length of DT-02 arms; by cutting them near first hole. Special "home made" screws with M3/M4 thread to fit front shocks. Upper rear arms Special shaft (3Racing+adjustable shaft) On wheels: Much more power! Ready to take off! Thanks for reading guys. See you later!
  7. Hi buddies! Back for new adventures. Let me present you my Sand rover on DT-02 chassis. I'm a buggy addict, i own one myself, the target was to reproduce it closely as possible. Here is the base: As you can see, she wasn't new, but full ball bearings equipped, electro was in place, the pinions looked like new, and I paid it a fair price, in short it was a good deal. But this body on DT-02 looks ridiculous! So Arbeit!
  8. Hi dudes! All started with the discovery two years ago of my old GH II (1989) hidden in my garage. I had forgot her existence... As you can see the "thing" is in poor condition... I began to looking for a new body (rising fighter used) That wasn't very genuine, and i hated color, so: (The grass hopper is spray work) End of 1st act...
  9. Last weekend the fifth edition of the Nordic Vintage Challenge was held in Eskilstuna, Sweden. With 57 entries it was the biggest so far and we're hoping to attract even more enthusiasts next time! A bit of history: late 2013 a Swede by the name of Tomas Karlsson (TamiyaTomas on this forum) thought it would be fun to organise a competition for vintage rc cars. Because there seemed to be enough interest for such an event, the first Nordic Vintage Challenge was held in February 2014 at Ekilstuna Modellbilklubb (about 70 miles west of Stockholm). Back then 3 off-road classes were organised: Classic, 2WD and 4WD (classic allowed both 2WD and 4WD cars). The second NVC was held a couple of months later in the summer of 2014 at the Oslo Modellbilklubb in Norway, courtesy of Svein Harald Ytternes (SHY69 on this forum). This time drivers were competing in 5 different classes: 2WD, 2WD Classic, 4WD, 4WD Classic and Big Wheeler. 2015 also saw two NVC's being held: one in spring and one in autumn. By now the tandem of Tomas and Svein Harald worked as a well-oiled machine, with input from other enthusiast through the swedish rc-forum. After NVC #4 it was decided to scrap the Big Wheeler class (at least for now) and try something new. The new class had to be very accessible and cheap, as to attract people from all ages and with all kinds of budgets. And so the idea for a DT-02 class was born (well, let's not try to pretend we invented the wheel here ) under the name of Plastic Fantastic. The rules for PF: - Only 2010 Holiday Buggy (red and blue) and 2011 Sand Rover/Street Rover/Kumamon Buggy allowed - Hop-ups limited to ball bearings, 540 Jonson silvercan motor, shock mount brace, hinge pins for A-arms, Tamiya oil shocks (C.V.A. short set II and C.V.A. mini set II) - Go wild on the body (but keep it recognizable as a HB or SR as no alternative bodies are allowed) This class was a succes with 10 contestants. Training and qualifier heats were held in two groups and the 3 finals were held in one big group. Racing was intense and heaps of fun. With all cars having more or less the same qualities, it was really up to the drivers. Never knew you could have such fearsome racing at such low speeds At the next NVC the Plastic Fantastic class will be organised again, this time probably on both days of the race. While the other classes are not Tamiya-specific, there are quite some people competing with Tamiya cars there too. This year we had two Hot-Trick Hotshots, two Egresses, a 'regular' HotShot and a Super Hotshot in 4WD Classic and a modified NovaFox (raced by yours truly) and FAV in the 2WD Classic, while 2 Top Force Evos were raced in the 'regular' 4WD class. So far we've had drivers from Sweden, Norway and Belgium but we're looking to expand So if you want to know more about this event or are interested in participating, don't hesitate to ask questions! Here are some clips of the Plastic Fantastic finals (extracts) as well as links to footage of the entire two days of racing (you'll have to search and skip if you only want to see the PF footage). - PF Final #1: - PF Final #2:
  10. bjorklo

    Astute Gator

    After seeing Beefmuffin's conversion of the DT-02 to a replica Astute, i just knew that i wanted one like that. This is the real deal where the inspiration comes from. in 2012 I sold my Desert Gator thinking that I will never need it, yeay right, i started to regret that a few weeks ago. I was searching the web for a new or used one, but shipping and possible customs tax it was going to be a bit expensive for me. Then I thought why don't I just search my inbox and find the guy I sold it to and ask if he still have it, and if he is willing to sell it. He did have it and he was willing to sell it to me for a good price. Here is a picture from when I had it And here is a picture of how it looks now The one thing I knew I had allready for the conversion was the Astute light weight front wheels, but I don't have tires. For rear I found a set of old Egress wheels and new tires. To find these I had to go trough my huge wheels and tires box, and of course i found them at the bottom The car is equiped with an old acoms reciver, V3 esc and Kyosho Mega 18x2 I must say that I'm very impressed with the speed in that motor, and will be keeping it. I might change the reciver and controller to a 2.4GHZ. I have made some orders for most of the parts i need for this project so just waiting for it to arrive
  11. Hi all, Does anyone have a clean DT-02 rolling chassis they would be willing to part with? Body, wheels, electrics and shocks not required - needs to be complete or pretty close otherwise. Cheers! Simon
  12. Is there anyone here that knows if the CVA shocks from the DT-03 Neo Fighter Buggy have the same length as the shocks of the DT-02 Holiday Buggy? There seems to be an upgrade kit with oil shocks that fits both chassis (#54567), but I would like to be sure before I order anything. There are also sets #50519 (front) and #50520 (rear) which are meant specifically for the DT-02, but they cost twice as much (together) as the aformentioned set (which contains 4 shocks). Is there a huge difference in quality here? Thanks, Hans
  13. Hi I need som help with picking right motor and pinion, part numbers will be helpfull. I currently own a Super Fighter With DT-02 chassis, i've mounted ball bearings all over, and fitted with a RS540 Sport tuned. I want more speed I know that it's not recommended with a larger motor than the sport tuned, but in different threads in this forum I can see that it works anyway.. I would like to have a Tamiya motor, i like to use original parts all over. Of all the different motors from Tamiya, the super Stock series, GT tuned, Torque tuned and so on, wich one should i use, and with wich pinion? As you can see, im new to this, started this hobby couple of months ago, and DT 02 is my entry kit, after doing that kit i while, i am gonna upgrade to a more pro chassis. Thankfull for answers! (sorry if my English is bad..)
  14. Hi, I'm in great difficult to find a used Blitzer Beetle to run. I could buy a new one but I also own a NIB for shelf queen purpose and I'm not so happy to buy another NIB one and bash it. I prefer a cheaper ruined used one, it's a psychological problem, I'm sorry to ruin a new model. So would like if in your opinion is possible to convert a DT-02 chassis to some sort of Blitzer Beetle with bodymounts and so on. I know DT-02 gear ratio is too low for Blitzer bigger wheel but I solve this problem someway. I never had a DT-02 chassis so don't really know it and don't know if conversion is possible. And, at the end, is the DT-02 really more performing than Blitzer chassis? Is it tougher or faster or reliable or so on? Thanks Max
  15. My servo saver is really loose and has quite a bit of free play in it, Are these items from hobbyking any good? http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__23492__Blue_Aluminum_Heavy_Duty_Servo_Saver.html I know Tamiya do a heavy duty one but that is twice the price, but is it a case of buy cheap, buy twice? Also I know of the kimborough servo savers but I was confused as to whether it would fit the dt-02. I can also take advantage of hobbykings postage and order a new battery at the same time.
  16. Managed to break the front shock tower on my Desert Gator on it's spring premier, 2nd part I've broken on this kit so far...and I've put it trough badword... Well moneys is somewhat short and parts availability here in Sweden is even worse...well some ingenuity and some bits and pieces later it's in running condition again https://www.dropbox....fyb4/1y4UmCweTb I also added the brace on top of the tower to increase the stability of my repairs... (Didn't manage to post the images directly so I'll just leave the Dropbox link)
  17. Have all these parts dissapeared?, not seen any on the bay for a while now. Have found some on google but where have they all gone?, I have broken 2 myself so for every DT-02 sold has everyone bought 2 "c" parts. Maybe I have selected something on ebay and cant find them, but cant find any on ebay at all.
  18. Let's face it: The Lexan bodies for the DT-02 chassis may be pretty tough and durable to resist hard running and lots of rollovers. But are they pretty enough to let the heads of bypassing people turn? Not in every case, I think. So it was time to give my trusty Sand Viper a new body. Inspired by mr.retreader's great looking Mad Bear Viper build, I've just started to convert the DT-02 Sand Viper into a Bear Hawk! Or at least some sort of. First thing to do was to get a Mad Fighter body. These are cheap enough even today, and you don't need to get the seperate rear wing and (ugly) decals. Of course you can also go the other way and get a more rare and expensive Bear Hawk bodyset (not sure if the mount holes will line up). They still do turn up every now and then at that famous auction site. Surprisingly, the Mad Fighter body sits pretty well on the DT-02 chassis. The front mount is part M5, the back mount part M1. Do you know any DT-02 based car that uses this part by default? I don't know of any. Luckily, Tamiya has provided M1 ever since on the M-parts tree. Good job! M1 has to be mounted with a spacer. I've used some leftover plastic bushings from the TT-01 steering linkage, but anything similar will do the job too. To save the body from leaning on the gearbox, add some thin foam tape to the rear body mount and the gearbox. I may paint up the body similar to the above mentioned "Mad Bear Viper" in Bear Hawk blue. A driver figure is a must, and the side panels seem to be a nice touch. Red alloy oil dampers from REELY may give it the finishing touch to imitate the original Bear Hawk's red friction dampers.
  19. Hi to all, First, let me introduce myself: As most of the members in this club RC cars were one of my biggest hobbies in my childhood, and after finding my old RC toy last year and giving it some runs I decided that I needed to get into the hobby again and some months ago I bought a Team Associated SC10b. I really liked the scale looks and it is really fun to drive, but as it was a RTR car I always had the feeling that something was missing, and it was the pleasure to build the car myself. I then directly pointed to Tamiya because of their scale look and "easy to build" kits. I felt completely in love with the Rough Rider, but its high price and not so good specs (compared to modern kits), made me rethink it and I decided that the re-released Holiday Buggy would do the job better for a lower price, but when I started looking for parts, I saw that the Sand Viper kit already comes with full ball bearings, ball differential and other extras, so my idea is to buy a Sand Viper kit and then add the Holiday Buggy body. As this will be my first kit, there is a lot of basic information that I need to know: As far as I know, Tamiya kits come with and esc and a motor, but I have to add a servo and a radio. As I plan to run my car at the beach I would like to buy a waterproof servo, but I need to know which ones fit the DT-02 chasis and if an additional servo saver not included in the kit is needed. So, could somebody recomend me a servo? I also noticed that many people in these forums recomend a low voltage alarm to use the provided esc with lipos as that esc thas not have a low voltage cut-off. Could you tell me where to fet one of these? Then, I will need to know which parts are needed to mount the Holiday Buggy body on the chasis: In some fotos, I see that some body mounts are put on the shock towers, but I don't know the part numbers. And last, I know that the Rough Rider has a plastic cover to protect the motor from water, do you knwo if this would also work wit a dirt tuned or sport tuned motor in the DT-02? When I receive answer to my questions, I will order the kit and the parts, and I will edit this post to document it with the building/conversion process. Thanks in advance for your answers.
  20. I was approached by someone at the tamiyaclub meet, sorry I didn't catch your name, speedy something, my apologies I just recently became partially deaf due to meningitis and I was too near the track to hear clearly. Anyway I said I would contact you to get one, maybe two of your fantastic dust covers, I was impressed but just didn't have the money at the time, as soon as I get my refund from paypal (could be a month) I would like to order some of these. Sorry I didn't catch your full name, if you see this post give me a shout please or if anyone else knows who I am talking about, please let me know. Thanks.
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