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Found 20 results

  1. Hi All, Just clicked "Confirm" on the purchase of a Tamiya Neo Fighter Buggy (DT-03) Kit #58587 ($116 with shipping). I loved building my first RC car the TT-02 Subaru 99' Monte Carlo, Advice for First Time RC Car thread and now that I am finishing up that build want to start the next. I am curious about 2WD off road buggies and thought the Neo Fighter Buggy (DT-03) would be a good way to try out 2WD. The kit already comes with CVA shocks and I already have an ESC, battery, servo, and receiver. Are there any other "must have" hop ups for the Neo Fighter Buggy (DT-03) Build ? Thank you all ! The Tamiya Club was great and very supportive for the TT-02 build, cheers. See below a specific question about bearings. Notes: Servo Brushless Motor ESC Receiver Shocks Tires and Tires Rear Wing
  2. Not too long ago, I finished building a Tamiya Aqroshot which included the DT-03 CVA damper set. I followed the instructions to build the dampers 100%. Once the build was done, I noticed that the front dampers were fine and could push the chassis back up, but the rear dampers are very stiff and are unable to lift the chassis without me lifting it up myself. All the parts were used, nothing was left over. I filled the dampers with oil to the top and cleaned any overspill, I remove the air bubbles as I went. It's like the spring itself has no resistance (right word?) when compressed. Does anyone have any idea why just the rear dampers are doing this? Is it normal and has anyone experienced this before with this damper set? Any help would be awesome.. I wanted to drive this tomorrow!
  3. I am looking for recommendations on tires for my DT-03. I use it in a park, sand is quite soft, dusty and slippery and the square spike tires provided with the kit are totally useless, it's like driving on ice. I've been recommended to use Schumacher's Block tires both front and rear , which are 2" but will fit the 2.2"ish star rims provided with the kit. These tires look great, old style, and I'm pretty sure the recommendation is good, but these are a bit hard to find in my country and I am not whiling to pay high shipping costs.. Any other recommendations for this kind of terrain and 2WD? I am super confused, there are so many kinds of patterns and spikes.. Thanks!
  4. Hi all, I'm looking for damper suggestions for my DT-03 Racing Fighter build. The Racing Fighter kit I have came with the CVA dampers and I also have the Tamiya Spring Set Hop-Up option #53832. However, I'd like to upgrade the plastic CVAs with alloy dampers instead. I tend to prefer using genuine Tamiya hop-up options (or TRF if budget allows) however I haven't found any direct replacements for the CVAs that came with this kit. As such, I've been looking at either going with a set of GPM dampers or a set from Yeah Racing. But before I pull the trigger on either of those, I wanted to ask here if anyone here has any suggestions for dampers. Thanks in advance for any help. Cheers!
  5. Hi all, I've recently started my DT-03 Racing Fighter build, and I'm incorporating a number a Tamiya and after-market Hop-Up options (as one does). One such upgrade is the Tamiya DT-02 Ball Differential Set (#53863); despite being designated for a DT-02, this is listed as a upgrade for the DT-03 chassis. After assembling the diff itself and installing it into the gearbox assembly, I noticed the drive cups that came with the ball diff set were considerably smaller than the kit supplied drive cups. I've attached a photo below to illustrate this. The trouble is, this make it impossible to use the kit supplied dog bones (they simply won't fit in the small drive cups), and I can't swap the larger kit supplied drive cups as the interface to the differential itself is completely different. Now, I do have on order a set if steel alloy CVD drive shafts from GPM (part number DT3264SC), which I purchased prior to starting this build. The reason is because I will be running a 10.5T brushless motor with a 2S LiPo in this car and it's my understanding the stock plastic drive cups and dog bones become a weak point when power goes up. However, in light of this recent discovery, my question is will the GPM CVD drive shaft set work with the smaller drive cups of this ball differential? If not, what CVDs do I need to source that will fit these smaller drive cups? Should I be looking to replace the small drive cups with something larger instead? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. Cheers! Michael
  6. Probably a recursive question, so apologies in advance and thanks for any replay on that topic. Car: Tamiya DT-03 full of hop-up parts, as many that I think buying an Egress would have been cheaper. Use: Occasional, just for fun, a bit of bashing but nothing extreme, just a way to disconnect. motor: Hobbywing xerun Justock 3650 13.5T G2.1 ESC: Currently for brushless only the Tamiya TBL-E02S, but not ready for Lipo's ( I have the alarm thing but I don't like it ) and the classic Tamiya aluminium plugs for the motor don't fit the 3.5mm golden banana males of the motor.. so I should have to cut and replace and I am not whiling to do it and prefer to keep it as it is and use it with NIMH + brushed stuff Battery: Gens Ace 4000Mah 50C Lipo ( tamiya connector ) Soldering skills: Almost none, but watched lots of youtube tutorials, so no skills. Based on all that data, I was thinking of the natural matching companion, the Hobbywing xerun XR10 justock, which is 60A and uses to be sold together as a combo ( I got the motor new from a guy but half the price ) The thing is, this ESC is not particularly expensive, around 60€, but based on my non competition use I was wondering if I could go for something cheaper, maybe also hobbywing? Would other brands work well too? What about Hoobywing clones? This combination seems to be designed to perfectly match together, the esc comes with banana connectors that fit the males in the motor, so no soldering is required apparently, at least esc-motor, and I guess I will have to figure out a way to connect to the tamiya battery. The ESC also claims something I can't understand about TimeZero.. Any suggestions on what should I go for? Thanks!
  7. Hi, I know this is weird, but I am using a dt-03 chassis as a base to build something different based on a kyosho Tomahawk body And I am looking for some nice looking and also usable aluminium oil dampers. I thought about using the Ultima re-re or Optima re-re but are too expensive for this build, so I came out with these: https://www.rcmart.com/xtra-speed-aluminum-front-damper-set-for-kyosho-optima-2016-1-10-buggy-xs-om27001-00068009 https://www.rcmart.com/xtra-speed-aluminum-rear-damper-set-for-kyosho-optima-2016-1-10-buggy-xs-om27002-00068010 I really love these replicas from the original Golden Turbo optima, but I also have lots of doubts: Do you guys think these dampers are good enough or just a stupid copy? I I noticed the new Turbo Optima re-re has a different ones.. These replicas have a small c ring as the mechanism to retain the o-rings as the original ones had.. which seems quite outdated for today standards. Were these dampers reliable? As I asume these dampers, as a replica won't be top notch on feeling I was planning to replace the included o-rings with the red o-rings that new Turbo Op are using today, will they fit? Cheapo Dt-03 don't come with pivot balls for dampers, just some kind of flat screws with lots of play. With these dampers, on the Dt-03 body should I use pivot balls? Any idea of the ball size on the original Optimas? Any help is welcome. Thanks!
  8. Hey, I am building my DT-03 neo fighter and have some questions about the dampers. The kit includes the oil version ones. I noticed there are three small disk pieces with one two and three holes, which I understand are pistons you can chose to fine tune the dampers, but there is no mention in the instructions on how to use them.. and the included axle already has a metallic piston.. Any idea? I am not totally happy with these dampers, specially the rear ones seem to be quite soft. So I am looking to replace them for something better, aluminium oil filled ones, do I have to find specific DT-03 ones or can I use any others with the same specs? Any suggestions? I found these, but there's no mention about them being oil filled or just friction.. https://www.asiatees.com/display?id=102569&brand=Tamiya&model=DT-03 Thanks!
  9. Been lurking here for a few months and thought it was time to share my build. Firstly, this is my first build so be kind and also a lot has been done but I'll try and run through it in order. I used to lust after Tamiya kits as a kid, but was never allowed one. The furthest I got was one of the lovely catalogues. Can't remember the year now, but it featured the 959 and Boomerang. I want to say '88 but not sure. There has been an ongoing RC thread on the Singletrack bike website and I've almost bought in the past but never got around to it. Even though I've been working through lockdown, I decided now was the time to treat myself to a kit. Stock has obviously been an issue but I also didn't want to spend too much incase I got bored quickly. Loved the look of the Sand Scorcher but was a bit put off by the price. A bit of reading suggested it didn't make a great basher anyway. In the end I plumped for a Racing Fighter, as it came with Torque Tuned motor and CVA's as standard and only really needed bearings added to make it a decent runner. Kit arrived and I was a bit taken aback by just how many bits there were. Some assembly required by Steven Clubb, on Flickr Build manual was fantastic and logical and with the help of many little pots and a magnetic bowl, the bags were all neatly sorted and the build progressed over a few nights worth of work. Not going to bore you with the build process, there's been tons of DT03's before. Didn't fancy the kit art orange, so went for blue instead, which after a while on here seems like a common colour. Went with Tamiya Metallic Blue for the body and Black for the wing. Was nervous about the paint process but initially pretty pleased with the result. A few months worth of crashes have wrecked the wing though, with a lot of flaking. Think I might have gone too think with the initial coats. Paint and body by Steven Clubb, on Flickr Kit stickers were a bit fussy and a complete PITA to cut, so kept it simple. Finished by Steven Clubb, on Flickr Ran it for a bit and discovered just how crap the kit tyres are, so bought a set of blue wheels to try other front tyres. Went for a Schumacher Cut Stagger in yellow compound and it transformed the car. On the spare rears went a set of Proline Sand Slingers for use on the beach. These are great fun and make tremendous rooster tails. Car was bottoming out all the time and running really low, so I took the advice from other build threads and bought a set of DF03 springs. Swapped about a bit and settled on the medium set all round. Also tried out a stiffer damper oil, but didn't like it and went back to the kit oil. Rear diff is very loose and very wayward, so tried a thick grease in the diff. This didn't do much and when I stripped it back down it had all been pushed to the very outside of the casing by the spinning forces. Bought a bottle of 500000cst diff "oil" and half filled the diff. Although the diff isn't sealed this stuff is more like glue than oil and has stayed put with no issues. It has also made a big difference on loose surfaces where both wheels now spin. Made getting out of patches of weeds much easier. Also went to a 19t steel pinion at the same time. Many of the tweets are pretty cheap, but shipping adds up, so Ive tended to things in batches to keeps costs down. Tried the wheel weight trick as well and managed to add 40g secreted around the front of the car. In all honesty I can't tell if it made a difference or not, but it can't hurt. I run a lot on a BMX track and it's a pretty tricky surface. Thought I'd try out truck tyres on the rear but didn't quite realise how much bigger they were! Untitled by Steven Clubb, on Flickr by Steven Clubb, on Flickr I'd fitted the truck tyres on a buggy wheel which wasn't ideal and the car grip rolled really easily. Only one solution, truck wheels front and back! Bought a set of Blitzer wheels and uprights on eBay and fitted the used plastic bushings front the build to space for the buggy wheels. Untitled by Steven Clubb, on Flickr Untitled by Steven Clubb, on Flickr Untitled by Steven Clubb, on Flickr It was also my birthday, so my wife bought me a Absima Thrust Eco brushless combo and I ditched the kit rear tyres for a set of Proline blockade. With both kit tyres now in the box, I also had a spare set of wheels and wanted a set of street tyres that would also handle light dirt use. Was really taken with Prolines Chain Link and Angle but had to get them from Germany. By this time I had mismatched wheels and tyres of all combinations, so into the oven they went (while the wife was out all day) and I re-glued them in matching sets. Untitled by Steven Clubb, on Flickr Untitled by Steven Clubb, on Flickr Untitled by Steven Clubb, on Flickr Untitled by Steven Clubb, on Flickr Untitled by Steven Clubb, on Flickr Untitled by Steven Clubb, on Flickr The increase in power with the brushless was immediately obvious but hard to control. I had to switch to the softest punch setting or the car would just flip. I thought at 3400kv the motor would be ok in the DT03, but on any dirt surface the car was really wayward. Lots of barrel rolls followed and the wing got worse and worse. One of my reasons for going BL was to clear the double jumps at the BMX track. Now I had all the speed I needed, but couldn't keep the car in a straight line. Cleared the jump a few times, but the car was now actually less fun. Final straw came last week when it lost control on grass and hit a tree, breaking the front axle. Was probably a bit vulnerable anyway as I had spaced the wheel out, but I put the motor and eco back to standard. When doing this I also noticed I had cracked the nose at some point, but at least the chassis is still in one solid piece (for now). Untitled by Steven Clubb, on Flickr Like I said at the beginning, I love the look of the Sand Scorcher. During my buying phase I also took a punt on a lexan Kamtec Baja shell. For less than 20 quid delivered, it was worth a try. Have been trimming bits while I have had a few spare minutes here and there and now have it rough trimmed. Still needs evened up, but I intend to do that once it's mounted securely. Rear needed a lot of cutting to clear the gearbox housing but fairly happy with the result. Will sand and smooth the edges once the final cuts are done. Need to re-fit the truck tyres and check clearances before deciding on mounting holes. Front mounts are easy, the kit has spare posts for use with an Aqroshot body and these line up great. The rear I still have to work out. Might be able to remove the kit wing, but use the mounting bracket somehow. Also thought about using velcro on the gearbox, but not sure how secure this would be? Untitled by Steven Clubb, on Flickr Untitled by Steven Clubb, on Flickr Untitled by Steven Clubb, on Flickr Untitled by Steven Clubb, on Flickr Still a way to go, but with a full time job and a one year old, things tend to tick along at a slow pace. Also, now have a spare fast motor looking for a new home but nowhere with kits in stock.
  10. Hello all, I recently took delivery of a Tamiya Racing Fighter (DT-03) kit. Been waiting on this one for quite a while (I ordered back when this pandemic started and only arrive a few days ago). I'm really looking forward to this build as this will be my first Tamiya buggy since the original Hornet release back in the mid-to-late 80s! I'm pretty sure a lot has changed in that time. During my wait for the kit to be delivered, I spent a fair bit of time reading the boards and watching YouTube videos and I've begun to amass various Hop-Up options several folks have suggested. Some have arrived with several still on their way. However the one that is proving to be difficult to find at any sort of reasonable price - either online or in stores - is the Tamiya Hop-Up Option #54629 steel 19T 0.8 Module pinion. The lowest I've found is around $30 shipped, coming from overseas. This is a part with a $5 retail price! I happened to wander into a local hobby store earlier today looking to get some PS paint and asked if they had anything equivalent to the Tamiya Hop-Up Option part. They handed me a hardened steel 19T 32pitch absolute pinion (part number 1719) from Robinson Racing. The sales person said that the 32pitch is the same as 0.8 Module and that I shouldn't have any issues. For the price ($5) I figured I had nothing to lose, but before I install it I wanted to ask if anyone here can verify that this Is indeed true? Thanks very much in advance. Cheers! Michael
  11. Hi all, I'm in need of some advice from those of you who have experience with the DT-03 chassis. Specifically, battery advice and which battery to go with. The electronics I'll be using in this build are relatively simple: I'll be using the stock TBLE-02S ESC that came with the kit, along with a Tamiya TBLM-02S sensored 10.5T brushless motor, and either a RadioLink R7FG or R6F receiver (haven't decided if I want a gyro in this buggy). I've been back and forth between using a NiMh or a LiPo battery for this build. I don't plan to race this buggy at all - it'll just be a fun recreational run-about with maybe an occasional trip to a local RC track, but no competitive use. Most of my experience has been with NiMh batteries, specifically Venom Power brand batteries, but I know LiPo is the way to go for sheer, raw performance, especially for a brushless setup. I'm not married to either NiMh or LiPo though - I'll consider any option. So I turn to those of you who are far more experienced with this: what battery would you recommend for my DT-03 Racing Fighter? Thanks very much in advance. Cheers!
  12. Hopefully this is in the right place, it makes more sense than in the 'Builds' section since it's really just a modification... We've been through a lot together, me and my £50 DT-02. A lot of batteries, that is. It's probably my favourite runner. They're tough as old boots and have really predictable handling, with a tight turning circle, decent ground clearance and good weight balance for jumping! Problem is, there aren't many on-road-suitable tyre options for the DT-02/03 buggies. There's the Carson All-Terrain wheel set, which has sold out pretty-much everywhere during the Covid-19 lockdown. These are generally black or chrome wheels in a design which I don't particularly like, though, and you're kinda stuck with them. The other option is the front wheels of a Tamiya QD touring car from the 2000's, which had twin 1150 bearing front wheel fittings, based on a touring-car sized 52mm rim. Then you're kind of stuck with the CC01 range of tyres, or some crawler tyres, which aren't really appropriate as they're generally too soft. There is the pricey option of Tamiya Street Rover wheels and tyres, but your tyre options are limited and as said, this is an expensive route! So what about hex front wheels? There's this option from GPM which I tried originally: Unfortunately, they just don't work. The wheel nut still has to be tight against the wheel, clamping it in place. The only way the wheels can 'freewheel' is to back the nut off a couple of turns. Then you'll find the nuts will fall off when you run it. Not good, sorry GPM. Some internet searching led me full-circle back to the TamiyaClub website, where a 2017 post from member 'Pininy' (who sadly doesn't seem to be registered on the forum) listed some parts and a small modification to convert the front of a DT-02 to hex-fitment. Massive thanks to him (or her??) I'm just re-documenting how this all goes together below. Parts required: 3Racing FGX-107 - Sakura FGX Parts Part G 3Racing FGX-124 - Heavy Duty Wheel Axle For 3racing Sakura FGX 4x 850 ball-bearings (5 x 8 x 2.5mm) 2x 2x10mm pin (for hex) - Tamiya 50594 2x 5mm ball connectors - Tamiya 50592 4x 5mm ball end (short) - Tamiya 50797 Option parts I used: Tamiya 53828 DT-02 Turnbuckle Suspension and Tie-Rod 2x 22mm hinge pin & e-clips 2x 1.5mm x 3mm spacer So these are the current hop-up tyres I had fitted after wearing-out the kit ones last year: I think they have a little bit of life left in them if I use them on grass! Here are the wheels and tyres I want to fit: DF-03 front and rear wheels, which are obviously 12mm hex fit. Fitting the rear wheels of course is very straightforward: And there are no issues with clearance etc. The front end has to come apart next: There's quite a lot of wear on that little pin-screw which holds the front upright in the C-hub. I decided to replace these after finding that 3x22mm hinge-pins fit, more on that later. You need to modify the front C-hubs to get enough clearance for the new knuckles. I did a quick and simple job with a Dremel, you could likely do it much neater if you had the inclination! You can even see all the black debris from the grinding tool un-ceremoniously sprayed up the side of the body! Here are the new parts required: They go together like so, I have fitted the 5mm ball connector to the pin closer to the axle for maximum steering angle: I strongly suspect that the axles can be the commonly-found M-Chassis items from Tamiya, but I didn't have one to-hand in order to check sizing etc. But they fit in exactly the same manner, so I can see no reason why it wouldn't work. This is it all fitted. I used the 3x22mm hinge pin, retained the small metal shim at the base of the knuckle (as per DT-02 standard instructions) and required that 1.5mm blue spacer to take out the vertical travel of the pin. At this point I fitted both sides and re-connected the steering tie-rods. Unfortunately, I had an un-holy amount of toe-out, as the arms were now too long (the ball connector has moved inwards from the stock items). I replaced the adjuster ends from the 53828 hop-up set with 4nr of the standard 5mm short adjusters, like so: Ta-da: Then it was time for wheels-on. I haven't taken any pictures but it's naturally the same as the rear-end, 2x10mm pin goes into the hole on the axle, 12mm hex over the top (included in the 3Racing parts) then the wheel and the locknut. And this image hopefully shows why you have to modify the front C-hubs for the knuckle to clear on full-lock: Then you're ready to go: This opens up a huge aftermarket for optional wheels and tyres, especially at 2.2" buggy size. I have some road slicks on order which I will fit to this and update with some pictures. Crucially: there are no clearance issues front or rear, and whilst you have a smidge of added ground-clearance with this setup, the chassis still bottoms-out before the dampers reach full travel, thereby protecting those precious shock towers!
  13. Hi, first post here. Have recently built a Racing Fighter but hate the rear tyres on dry dusty surfaces. They work great on short grass but just spin like crazy on hard dirt and make the car really hard to control. Already changed the fronts to Schumacher Cut Staggers and was wondering what a decent rear would be? Already done a search the Carson’s that come up are all out of stock. UK stock preferred to keep post costs down. Thanks for any suggestions.
  14. Hi All, Came back to RC few weeks by restoring a 20 years old FF01 chassis. It was fun, I like it but unfortunately quickly broke one of the front pieces. While waiting for a spare part (quite hard to find) I was thinking that a buggy would probably better fit with my idea of RC fun. After few hesitations, I finally ordered a basic Neo Fighter as it seems quite fun, easy to find and cheap replacement parts while open to some tuning. It's a standard one (EU model with oil damper kit) and just added the ball bearing kit. I unfortunately didn't took picture as I was building it but here is the final result. It was my first in a long time trial for body paint and I wanted to customize it a bit. Result is not as I expected but kids love the result so it's ok. I wished the body to be more red (guess its because of the green applied on top of it, should have applied a kind of white intermediate? As well as the wheels, I tried to color the white plastic in red but failed at selection of the good product Now waiting to run it but it dosn't stop to rain since it's finished...
  15. Brand new in box with Tamiya ESC (company cancelled my order due to no stock then fulfilled it anyway - grrrr - so have 2 kits now) The DT-03 Racing Fighter special black Edition is as per a new Tamiya Racing Fighter with some extras and hop ups:- Hi-Torque Servo Saver (Black) (51000) - £10 DT-03 Lightweight Gear Shaft (5x45mm/2pcs.) (54560) - £2.50 DT-03 Full Turnbuckle Set (54572) - £15 4mm Flange Lock Nut (Black, 8pcs.) (54642) - £3 RS-540 Torque-Tuned Motor (54358) - £13 DT-03 CVA Damper Set (54567) - £20 Im in the U.K. Happy for local delivery or collection (free) or postage to EU (£12) £150 JJ
  16. New to the hobby, my first car was the DT-03. After messing about with it on the road I wanted to see how it would do on a forest path. Bad idea! It somehow broke the front left suspension. The small retainer part was lost, thankfully I found the spring. (Hop-up CVA Damper set - part V5 lost). I'm wondering what I should do, from my searches online, I could just buy a new complete CVA Damper set, but a friend suggested just get a new set of non-Tamiya shocks. I like the idea, but now I'm not sure what would fit? As im a newbie, I've no idea about how strong I need the shocks to be or how it affects speed. Looking for advice, also if I replace the shocks, I'm guessing it would be wise to replace all four. What do I want to do with it? Nothing serious, I was hoping it would take more of an off road track, but maybe I will stick to roads and the driveway! Not going to race it or anything, it's all stock parts right now. (Was packed with hop-ups mentioned). Attached a pic of the CVA Damper set. Part missing was the "PAC-MAN" looking part seen on the top row.
  17. 2x DT03 Neo Fighters bundle £105 price inc. UK shipping Would split bundles for £55 each Neo 1 Metallic blue body fully ball raced Oil shocks Modelsport XT-12 brushed esc (for motors down to 12t) etronix pulse ex2 sport 2.4ghz radio system inc 8x AA batteries in superb working order HPI servo 12t abisma motor - partially used - tested ok Torque tuned motor installed Road Hawg rear street tyres (spot glued on) Fully working in used but good condition, just needs 7.2v battery to run inc. manual Neo 2 Original chassis broke after a crash so... Rear gearbox section, fully ball raced, but has a split so new gearbox A parts inc!!!!! Front section fully ball raced New Chassis tree servo mount piece gearbox cups and shafts missing so new N tree parts inc!!!!!!!! Oil shocks front bumper hopup alloy bumper hopup carbon front shock tower 2x rear wheels and tyres (worn) 4x front wheels with tyres (great condition) 2x front tyres worn New body shell and wing uncut New decals uncut Acoms as-17 servo Torque tuned motor - partially used NEW IN PACK - HPI firebolt 15T motor NEW 2000mah nimh battery FLYSKY FS-GT2 2.4ghz radio set inc. good 8x AA batteries just need to assemble and add an esc to run or keep as spares!!!! Pictures in my traderoom, if more pictures required, just email me
  18. For Sale I have a few Sealed Nib DT03 Neo Fighters They come with ESC, oil shocks and torque tuned motor £59 delivered in the UK Tamiya Universals, new but not in packaging £10 each inc. UK shipping Suitable for Boomerang, Thundershot, Top Force, Blitzer beetle, DT02, DT03 (DT02/3 both also need metal gearbox joints) 1x Sealed Nib Fighting Buggy (Super Champ) 84389 £239 inc. UK delivery 1x Super Dragon bodyset, near mint from 1989, suitable for Hornet,GH2 and tshot chassis £125 inc. UK shipping
  19. Is there anyone here that knows if the CVA shocks from the DT-03 Neo Fighter Buggy have the same length as the shocks of the DT-02 Holiday Buggy? There seems to be an upgrade kit with oil shocks that fits both chassis (#54567), but I would like to be sure before I order anything. There are also sets #50519 (front) and #50520 (rear) which are meant specifically for the DT-02, but they cost twice as much (together) as the aformentioned set (which contains 4 shocks). Is there a huge difference in quality here? Thanks, Hans
  20. Hi, I am going to build a new dt-03 and use a 13.5t brushless motor. I would like to tune this buggy to the max! I read a few great threads on it but am a little confused by pinion gears. Ideally I would like to use a Robinson Racing pinion gear, as I have used them before on my Sand Scorcher and they worked really well. But how do I know how many teeth to choose? I am thinking about a 17t one for my motor but only because it was something I picked up in a random thread. I would like to know how you actually choose? I will be using the car for amateur racing with my kids and bashing around in fields. Once I know how many teeth what are the correct specs of the gears in the DT03? After reading these two threads I am really confused: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=74105 http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=73604 Thanks!!!
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