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Found 42 results

  1. So, I was gunning my beloved DT-03 around the street yesterday with some friends and some way or another my car flipped and my wing cracked. I don’t want to break it any further as I used my “shelf wing” that is painted and has stickers on it. I am looking for the original wing and I would like it to ship from the US. I borrowed my friend’s wing but it is overly large and I cannot control my car. However, I have found some “DT-03 Wings” on eBay but they don’t look like the original. I hope that someone here can find me the original wing. Thanks for any help! Cheers, Max
  2. *apologies to NJ’s second favourite son JBJ for the title* But man was I Livin’ on a Prayer hoping to find anything in stock in these difficult times, seems like any Tamiya kit is Wanted Dead or Alive. But when hope was lost I Kept the Faith and Fusion restarted their webshop coming though with the Aqroshot like a Blaze of Glory. Selling the Top Force was Bad Medicine but getting this basher is sweeter than a Bed Of Roses. I Regret Nothing.
  3. Hi everyone! Newbie to the site, but a fair veteran of RC Car building! Having not built a car for the last 20 years, the whole bordom of lockdown saw me buying my first Tamiya car in a longgg time! I couldnt wait! So i wont bother showing the build of the Chassis, as at this moment its completly standard as it arrives out the box, and i'm sure most people have seen many pics of standard DT03 chassis's! However... i do have a whole plethra of Hop-Up parts on order and so i will show there fitment as and when each arrives in the post. But for now i thought i'd share my body shell paint up, as i never tend to paint the factory colours, i prefer to make mine abit more unique! So my plan for this car was to do a fade. Something which is pretty tricky with spray cans and not an airbrush system, and can go very wrong. But, i have plenty of time on my hands, so i could take my time. I'm going to do a Candy Blue fading to Black. Now i could have made my own life easier and just picked a Blue from the exsisting Tamiya Paint Pallet, but they dont do Candy's, and...well....i want a candy colour. So to do this, you need to use a Transparent Paint in this case PS-38 Trasparent Blue, and then use a Chrome/Silver as the backing colour... in my case PS-48 Semi Gloss Silver Anodised Aluminium. So now i have to fade THREE colours into each other DOH! First i start with the Blue, building up with lots of very light coats, and being very careful with fading towards the back of the car. I actually initially masking an area at the back of the car i wanted to make sure would definitly become BLACK. But because you dont want a obviously masked line in the paint, you have to take this off halfway through and still allow some over spray into the area. I also made a little carboard blocking board to again help with the overspray. I think in the end, i must have done around 10 thin coats of the Blue, untill it was a level in the of the areas of the car i was happy with. EG more heavy layers towards the front, and getting thinner towards the back. Next came adding the Chrome Silver backer. Now, this i ONLY want ontop of the Blue, and no where near the area i want Black. Now as Silver/Chrome is an opaque colour, and i want the candy blue to darken into Black, you actually have to leave some exposed thin blue towards the back, so that when you spray Black, it darkens the Blue down. But Black won't really have an effect on the silver chrome. So its tricky, and you just have to be so patient, and take your time building lots of the thin coats up, as if you whack a big heavy coat on and its in the wrong place, its game over. So i think in total i must have done around 6 or 7 coats of the Chrome. Pay attention to the fact the Chrome fade is further up than the blue actually is! Now comes the Black, in this case PS-5 Black. At this point, again taking your time to build up lots of even thin layers rather than being tempted to ruin all your hard work with a couple of thick laters of paint. I started to build the black up from the back, making sure to cover all the way past the fade point. As the back of the car was intended to be black, i decided to paint the spoiler just plain black, so i didnt bother showing that getting sprayed up. Then once you've checked your work by holding it up to a light, checking for weak patches. Time to leave to cure overnight. This is the result. Still with all the masking and overspray film on! But you can see its looking good! In total, i think it must have been around 22/23 coats of paint. THEN is the moment of truth....removing the masking and film!..... see next post!
  4. Hopefully this is in the right place, it makes more sense than in the 'Builds' section since it's really just a modification... We've been through a lot together, me and my £50 DT-02. A lot of batteries, that is. It's probably my favourite runner. They're tough as old boots and have really predictable handling, with a tight turning circle, decent ground clearance and good weight balance for jumping! Problem is, there aren't many on-road-suitable tyre options for the DT-02/03 buggies. There's the Carson All-Terrain wheel set, which has sold out pretty-much everywhere during the Covid-19 lockdown. These are generally black or chrome wheels in a design which I don't particularly like, though, and you're kinda stuck with them. The other option is the front wheels of a Tamiya QD touring car from the 2000's, which had twin 1150 bearing front wheel fittings, based on a touring-car sized 52mm rim. Then you're kind of stuck with the CC01 range of tyres, or some crawler tyres, which aren't really appropriate as they're generally too soft. There is the pricey option of Tamiya Street Rover wheels and tyres, but your tyre options are limited and as said, this is an expensive route! So what about hex front wheels? There's this option from GPM which I tried originally: Unfortunately, they just don't work. The wheel nut still has to be tight against the wheel, clamping it in place. The only way the wheels can 'freewheel' is to back the nut off a couple of turns. Then you'll find the nuts will fall off when you run it. Not good, sorry GPM. Some internet searching led me full-circle back to the TamiyaClub website, where a 2017 post from member 'Pininy' (who sadly doesn't seem to be registered on the forum) listed some parts and a small modification to convert the front of a DT-02 to hex-fitment. Massive thanks to him (or her??) I'm just re-documenting how this all goes together below. Parts required: 3Racing FGX-107 - Sakura FGX Parts Part G 3Racing FGX-124 - Heavy Duty Wheel Axle For 3racing Sakura FGX 4x 850 ball-bearings (5 x 8 x 2.5mm) 2x 2x10mm pin (for hex) - Tamiya 50594 2x 5mm ball connectors - Tamiya 50592 4x 5mm ball end (short) - Tamiya 50797 Option parts I used: Tamiya 53828 DT-02 Turnbuckle Suspension and Tie-Rod 2x 22mm hinge pin & e-clips 2x 1.5mm x 3mm spacer So these are the current hop-up tyres I had fitted after wearing-out the kit ones last year: I think they have a little bit of life left in them if I use them on grass! Here are the wheels and tyres I want to fit: DF-03 front and rear wheels, which are obviously 12mm hex fit. Fitting the rear wheels of course is very straightforward: And there are no issues with clearance etc. The front end has to come apart next: There's quite a lot of wear on that little pin-screw which holds the front upright in the C-hub. I decided to replace these after finding that 3x22mm hinge-pins fit, more on that later. You need to modify the front C-hubs to get enough clearance for the new knuckles. I did a quick and simple job with a Dremel, you could likely do it much neater if you had the inclination! You can even see all the black debris from the grinding tool un-ceremoniously sprayed up the side of the body! Here are the new parts required: They go together like so, I have fitted the 5mm ball connector to the pin closer to the axle for maximum steering angle: I strongly suspect that the axles can be the commonly-found M-Chassis items from Tamiya, but I didn't have one to-hand in order to check sizing etc. But they fit in exactly the same manner, so I can see no reason why it wouldn't work. This is it all fitted. I used the 3x22mm hinge pin, retained the small metal shim at the base of the knuckle (as per DT-02 standard instructions) and required that 1.5mm blue spacer to take out the vertical travel of the pin. At this point I fitted both sides and re-connected the steering tie-rods. Unfortunately, I had an un-holy amount of toe-out, as the arms were now too long (the ball connector has moved inwards from the stock items). I replaced the adjuster ends from the 53828 hop-up set with 4nr of the standard 5mm short adjusters, like so: Ta-da: Then it was time for wheels-on. I haven't taken any pictures but it's naturally the same as the rear-end, 2x10mm pin goes into the hole on the axle, 12mm hex over the top (included in the 3Racing parts) then the wheel and the locknut. And this image hopefully shows why you have to modify the front C-hubs for the knuckle to clear on full-lock: Then you're ready to go: This opens up a huge aftermarket for optional wheels and tyres, especially at 2.2" buggy size. I have some road slicks on order which I will fit to this and update with some pictures. Crucially: there are no clearance issues front or rear, and whilst you have a smidge of added ground-clearance with this setup, the chassis still bottoms-out before the dampers reach full travel, thereby protecting those precious shock towers!
  5. I have a Tamiya DT-03 Racing Fighter with a 3900kV GoolRC Brushless Motor/ESC. My beauty flies down the street and throws dirt in my face, but the one thing she lacks is wheelies. Does anyone know how to make her wheelie? Because I've seen people with around 3000 kV DT-03's and their cars would wheelie. This one's a 3900 kV motor so I am a little bit baffled . Is it because I only have a 17T pinion? Any help is appreciated! -Max
  6. Morning everyone Done a quick search but couldn't find the answer 😬 got a DT 03 Neo fighter build planned (waiting for stock) currently ain't we all 😭 so currently planning build Hop Ups ....watched a few videos on the Tube regarding using a heavier grade oil in the rear shocks to improve the ride,what's the grade you guys recommend and any links too products 👍 other possible upgrades are full ball race and would like the 'turnbuckle' set up on the rear 💪 plus carbon towers front and rear but sourcing these at moment aaaaargh 🤯 also whilst I am on would like a rear tarmac tyre option and a better front ribbed tyre option so what you got for me 😆 Thanks everyone
  7. Shifted this thread over here as I posted in General Discussions as my first post before I knew about how things worked. Also, work on the car escalated and I wanted to keep a note of ongoing upgrades/changes. Hopefully of interest to DT03 runners/buyer. I have an original Thunder Dragon from 1988 which has had a bit of a restomod, but getting that sorted recently led to the purchase of a cheap Racing Fighter from Germany as I've never had a 2WD buggy before. First buggy full build in about 30 years, although the Thunder Dragon has been torn down and rebuilt several times. Really enjoyed it. I had an old Grasshopper2 shell in my bit box from back in the day, and I'd never painted a shell before. I don't like the modern look of buggies, being a child of the 80's I love the older buggies so I decided to have a go and some light body mods to fit it to my DT03. It was already slightly modified around the front shocks to fit on my Thunder Dragon. Here's a couple of trial fits with the primer on, trying to figure out the mountings and proportion. Couldn't resist getting the wheels on to see what it might look like: Figured out the body mods, enlarging the front hole to use the central front mount on the chassis, and adding holes in the haunches for the large l-shaped body mount towers that came with the kit. I ended up going narrower than I could have got away with on the front cuts. I chopped the DT-03 suspension mount in the centre to get the front of the shell on and off. Not bothered about the nth degree of wheel control and can always get the fancy TRF carbon one if I feel the need in future. After a couple of aborted attempts at orange from Tamiya and Halfords, and neither before strong enough for my liking and went for it with neon orange. Stickers are from MCI Racing, with red replaced with black, and yellow replaced with dark grey. Pretty pleased with how it came out. Another modern look I'm not keen on is the super short front overhang. I like the big 80s bull bars, so inspired by AMPRO Engineering on Youtube I knocked up a bull bar bumper in 3D CAD and got it 3D printed from Shapeways. Only cost a tenner! Sets the stance off nicely, I think. I do love the kit black star dish wheels though. As for the car, I loved building it and it seems solid. I've never had brushless before either, so I went for a 13.5R Speed Passion MMM motor from Modelsport who also did my some leads with tamiya plugs, and a steel 17t pinion and a bearing set to start with. The kit came with the CVA dampers with the fixed solid plates on top of the shafts. Initially I was a bit disappointed. I'm certainly no expert and have no plans to race, but it was very understeery and bottomed out a lot. Due to older equipment I have already, I still use ACOMS 27MHz radio and NiMH batteries to keep costs down which I've since learnt are on the heavy side, but they work fine in my Thunder Dragon! So, after going down the rabbit hole of what mods to do where, trying not to spend a fortune on hop ups and learning as I go, this I think is my basics for getting the DT-03 to somewhere near it's potential and also hopefully help some newbies looking at getting their DT-03 running nice in my opinion: 1) Junk the stock tyres. The deep rib fronts that come with the Racing Fighter in particular are useless on hard surfaces and I generally muck about in the street or at the yard at work. With the fiesty motor I started tearing through the rears too, and have ended up with Schumacher Mini Pin Yellows on the stock rims. Works great, and the yellows last longer than the blue counter-intuitively, because the blue is harder it span up too easily on hard surfaces and wore out. On things like the pump track in the pictures, the mini pins are immense. 2) Connected to 1 - Be honest about where you drive. Having burnt through cool looking buggy tyres I now have a second set of wheels (Schumacher Flexlite read, Tamiya Dish Front both in black) with Schumacher RT1s and medium inserts for tarmac. 3) Suspension - I'm using the DF03 (not a typo, the 4WD car) setting springs, hard rear, softest front. Both are firmer than the kit springs. The DT-03 settings springs were right out because the colours would have looked rubbish if I'd needed the red ones. Yes, I am enough of a tart for that. Plus, couldn't see the point of a softer set of springs if the kit springs were in the middle. I saw the DF03 springs suggested on a thread on here I think. Great call. I got the TRF 54043 piston rods for the rear shock and standard CVA mini shock shafts 50601 for the front and used the kit sprues and some e-clips to convert the dampers to proper pistons. After some experimentation I'm running single hole pistons with the kit Soft Tamiya 400 CST oil 4) I got the anti roll bars, but have ended up not using them. Now I have the suspension firm enough to hold the car up it handles fine without the anti roll bars. IMHO. 5) I used the leftover ball studs from the unused roll bars to replace as many of the step screws in the damper mounts as possible. Much nicer and less rattly I got a bag of ball connectors (50591) to finish the job off, although the fronts need a bit of filing to get them to fit the wishbones. 6) Turnbuckles - Don't be a cheapskate like me and pick up a cheap DT02 set, as the steering arms don't fit! These do seen good for getting the grip up though. 2-3 neg both ends. 7) Driveshafts - I had no issues with the toughness of the plastic driveshafts, but I couldn't believe how much they restrict suspension movement. I didn't want to spend out on Universals as I'm not racing. I ended up taking a leaf out of the Sand Viper book and went to the metal driveshaft and cups. Only cost about a tenner for the parts, and the car stands up at the rear about another 10mm! They look better too, IMHO. Parts are: Shafts - Tamiya 9805551 Outdrives - Tamiya 9804237 Hub end cups - Tamiya 50823 8) Geared diff with the kit seems fine. I stuffed it with grease as advised somewhere on the internet and does fine for me. 9) Kimborough servo saver was a fiver well spent. Much more crisp steering. 10) Not sure if the Hop Up servo mount was £18 well spent, but it looks pretty and does look into the chassis and servo much more firmly. I'm open on this one as it's pretty expensive. Hope you like it, and hope that helps anyone looking at getting a DT-03. Cheers!
  8. Hi Guys, Have just finished building a Racing Fighter with my son. It’s run for about 1.5 hours but has now developed an annoying clicking noise from the gearbox. It does it when driving forwards and backward but its worse when going backwards. It has no effect on the speed that the car moves at though. Also, the rear wheels only spin in opposite directions intermittently when being turned manually. The rest of the time only one wheel spins and the other doesn’t move at all. To be honest I didn’t check the diff was working properly when I first built it so don’t know if it’s always been like this or has developed this problem at the same time as the clicking noise. Ive stripped and rebuilt the diff and box 3 times now and can’t cure either problem. Any ideas or tips would be appreciated as my son is rapidly losing interest! Thank you.
  9. I am looking for new DT-03 Racing Fighter tires from Tamiya since my previous stock ones were shredded within a short period of time. Does anyone know what type I should get? I would want to get a set that I could use in the grass, dirt, concrete/pavement. Thanks! Tamiya_Cars_4_Life
  10. Hope the group mods don't mind me posting this, but after testing by me and a racer i know have decided I am confident enough in my DT02/3 3 deg toe in uprights to offer them for sale. I have opened a Shapeways store called CTE RC (https://www.shapeways.com/shops/cotic-rc) and have put them on there with a few of my other designs. There are fitting instructions on the part links on the store. No one else makes toe in uprights for these chassis which is why i did them. Hopefully some of you might find them useful, or fun, or just a nice colour (There are about 10 colour options). Here's a pic of Andy's cool DT02 and DT03 race cars and my DT03 truggy with them installed. There is a full installation and rundown over on by DT03 Build log The improvements I wanted was to reduce the size and make the uprights dedicated to the metal driveshafts. The kit uprights are bulky and bind on the wishbones. As you can see in this comparison, the new uprights allow about 10mm more suspension travel, which gives more roll capacity and more grip. No one else makes toe in uprights for these chassis which is why i did them. If you race you will find these a big step forward from the kit version. Andy (my tame racer) reports more rear end grip and stability and the ability to get on the throttle earlier out of corners. He was able to dial in more front end grip because the rear was better. Also reported it had a bigger impact on performance in the DT03 on astro than the DT02. Hopefully some of you might find them useful, or fun, or just a nice colour (There are about 10 colour options). If you would like to order they are available as individual left and right items. Left: https://www.shapeways.com/product/DHAWQ2DWJ/tamiya-dt02-3-rear-upright-3-deg-toe-in-lh?optionId=65301051 Right: https://www.shapeways.com/product/FPEB2TSM2/tamiya-dt02-3-rear-upright-3-deg-toe-in-rh?optionId=65300950 Cheers!
  11. I've got a DT03 black edition with the torque tuned motor and the Stadium Thunder with the sport tuned motor. To me, it sounds like the truck would be better with the torque motor and the buggy with the sport motor. I'm considering making the switch but what do you guys think? It should be a direct swap right? The DT03 is a 19T pinion and the Stadium Thunder is a 13T pinion.
  12. Hi All, Came back to RC few weeks by restoring a 20 years old FF01 chassis. It was fun, I like it but unfortunately quickly broke one of the front pieces. While waiting for a spare part (quite hard to find) I was thinking that a buggy would probably better fit with my idea of RC fun. After few hesitations, I finally ordered a basic Neo Fighter as it seems quite fun, easy to find and cheap replacement parts while open to some tuning. It's a standard one (EU model with oil damper kit) and just added the ball bearing kit. I unfortunately didn't took picture as I was building it but here is the final result. It was my first in a long time trial for body paint and I wanted to customize it a bit. Result is not as I expected but kids love the result so it's ok. I wished the body to be more red (guess its because of the green applied on top of it, should have applied a kind of white intermediate? As well as the wheels, I tried to color the white plastic in red but failed at selection of the good product Now waiting to run it but it dosn't stop to rain since it's finished...
  13. Brand new in box with Tamiya ESC (company cancelled my order due to no stock then fulfilled it anyway - grrrr - so have 2 kits now) The DT-03 Racing Fighter special black Edition is as per a new Tamiya Racing Fighter with some extras and hop ups:- Hi-Torque Servo Saver (Black) (51000) - £10 DT-03 Lightweight Gear Shaft (5x45mm/2pcs.) (54560) - £2.50 DT-03 Full Turnbuckle Set (54572) - £15 4mm Flange Lock Nut (Black, 8pcs.) (54642) - £3 RS-540 Torque-Tuned Motor (54358) - £13 DT-03 CVA Damper Set (54567) - £20 Im in the U.K. Happy for local delivery or collection (free) or postage to EU (£12) £150 JJ
  14. So if you want to jump straight to the changes from buggy to truggy/truck and an explanation of sorts as to why jump straight to it here... ——— So as the title tells you I’m a total beginner at this so be gentle! I was unsure whether to do a build as I imagine it’ll be of little interest to the veterans, but maybe someone in my shoes at some point will come across it and find it of use. Here goes then. I’ve wanted an R/C on and off for years but never got round to it until now (is that a recurring adult theme?) It was a definite heart over head moment as I did virtually no research(!) and pretty much jumped straight in. I looked at a few RTR’s but beyond the ease of getting up and running and the possible initial reduced cost I wanted the build part. If I’m honest that’s the part that’s most appealing to me, at the minute at least. So from that I started looking at Tamiya kits and was initially looking at 4wd kits but then I came across @ThunderDragonCy build and was totally drawn in by the build and tweaks he had done and bit the bullet on a 2wd DT03 Racing Fighter. Thinking about it afterwards I feel that was the right choice. Although the 4wd kits are by the look of it more involved to build I feel they would be less fun in use, possibly too easy whereas the 2wd kits once built and running should be more fun/challenging to drive. Time will tell...plus I can buy a 4wd later! So to start I just bought the kit with the CVA shocks, ESC and Torque Tuned Motor, but nothing else beyond buying some bearings, although I did buy a couple more bits a few days later but I’ll detail those as they come up in the build. The plan is to research the rest, (servo/batteries/transmitter and receiver) as I go. I’m in no rush and at the moment have very limited time to build the car anyway (first clue for you all that this won’t be a quick build thread!) Nothing exciting at first but I’ll be sure to document any issues etc I come across as a novice builder and then later with use I’ll share any tweaks etc. And if you’ve made it this far, well done 😂 So then, to begin...
  15. I love my DT03 chassis, but the buggy bodies available for it are a bit rubbish in my opinion. Always been a bit jealous of the nice bodies that fit the 02. made it to proof of concept stage today. This is a Team Azarashi Quracca body which was originally released for the Kyosho RB5. I saw it cut to fit a TRF201 and thought it looked ridiculously cool. Did a bit of research on the RB5 and turns out it was a rear motor buggy with 285mm wheelbase, so not far off the 03. Sealed the deal that the UK Azarashi importer has a deal on these right now so took a punt. It isn't cut completely to the cut lines as you might expect. Around the front tower is cut to the most forward cut line. The body is trimmed low. I just took the mould sill off and as little as possible to tidy it up to give enough coverage of the chassis. The rear is cut on and off the cut line to fit up against the shock mount bulkhead. There is the odd bottom corner trim here and there to clear suspension. It is pretty snug in the cockpit for the ESC and Rx but i have pretty large versions of both. It uses the L shaped body posts from the kit and was pretty easy to mark the rears first, set the height then do the front. Wing is from the kit too. You get two different shaped wings. I picked the most interesting shape. Quite excited about this. Got some paint on order and the body comes with window masks and a load of Azarashi stickers if you like them. Very impressed. I'll post up when it's finished. What do you think?
  16. For sale unused shocks all but one are new Tamiya 19402709 / Tamiya 54567, 1 set of front and rear black oil cva shocks, suitable for dt-01, dt-02, dt-03, df-02, tt-02B, NIP (new in pack), sealed, fixed piston type £15 inc. UK shipping next up... 1x used but cleaned and un-assembled thundershot / fire dragon / terra scorcher set of front yellow cva oil shocks in great condition, £12 inc. UK shipping next up... Tamiya 84347 CW-01 short shock set ONLY parts for 2 CVA shocks! could also be used for rear of dt-01,dt-02,dt-03 etc comes with soft rear springs, normal pistons and attachment parts £14 inc. UK shipping next up... Tamiya 19402709 / Tamiya 54567, 1 set of rear ONLY white oil cva shocks, suitable for dt-01, dt-02, dt-03, df-02, tt-02B, NIP (new in pack), sealed, fixed piston type no screws, ball connectors inc. this time just shock parts and oil bottle comes with normal dt-02, dt-03 rear springs, ideal for WT-01 if you have alloy shock towers (might need stiff springs though) £12 inc. UK shipping each. 2 sets of these are available next up... Tamiya 84366 wr-02 cva mini shock set in yellow, 2 shocks only, no attachment parts and fixed pistons, no oil bottle can be used also for dt-01, g6-01, gf-01, dt-02, dt-03 etc but you would need longer springs £10 inc. UK shipping Paypal gift please Going on ebay Sunday if no one here wants them
  17. DT Challenge 2018 7th October New venue this year …………. Swindon RC Car Club hosting Same Rules as previous years with the DT01 class now open to all DT01 cars (last year was just the Madbull) 20 places now available for the Hotshot gearbox cars …………. check out the rules and more info on the DT02/03 Facebook page
  18. This is the Mad Bull shell i cut to fit a DT03 chassis. You need to fit the tall L shaped rear body mounts to the DT03 to fit this shell. Neon blue paint, custom contrasting MCI Racing Grasshopper2 decals. Fitted with non-standard Grasshopper style spot light pods. Also drilled to fit a Grasshopper2 although the front of the body doesn't seal to the tub like a true GH2 shell would. Now i have my yellow GH2 shell and my Azarashi Racibg shell i just don't use it anymore. Here it is in use. This is when it was new Looking for £12 posted in the UK
  19. Related to getting my 3 deg rear uprights, i am interested as to why the 03 is so unloved by DT Challenge racers and other track runners. To me (i am not a racer, but understand technical things) the 03 has longer wheelbase (similar to race buggies) and much better front suspension and steering setup. Same rear suspension as the 02 so even scores there. I have an 03 and although it took a few (enjoyable) months getting a setup on it, it seems like a great handling chassis. Any racers or track runners got any thoughts? More interestingly, are there any parts i could design within the mod class rules that would improve the 03 past the 02?
  20. Hi All, Has anyone managed to use the GPM aluminium servo saver with the remaining standard tamiya saver parts? Whilst the parts fit together the 'spring' is stretched slightly more by the GPM part making the whole assembly have a few degrees movement side to side. I originally thought i could use the GPM part with an old white Tamiya heavy duty saver but it seems the design is not compatible. I also I have a Kimbrough 114 would this be a better option? Many Thanks
  21. Next project! The massive bulky rear uprights on my dt03 offend me! They are huge to clear the plastic dogbones and with metal driveshafts in they actually foul the lower arms preventing full droop. Aluminium ones are rare and cost a fortune so I thought I would model up some slim uprights myself and get them from shapeways. Seeing as I am on this though, I can do pretty much anything I like so would it be good to add a degree of toe angle maybe? There's already some toe in on the car, but I remember the @super gripper write up bemoaning the lack if toe adjustment. I figure with a 1 deg pair you could either add or subtract some toe in depending on how that affects the car (I have no idea what the effect is by the way!) Would you want more camber link holes? If so, what configuration? Any other features I should add? Let's design the ultimate DT02/3 rear upright!!
  22. Need some C-hubs for another grasshopper 2 chassis I'm updating to 4 bar front suspension. Don't really want to buy the entire parts tree just to get c-hubs. Anyone upgraded to aluminium c-hubs on their buggy want to lighten their spares box?
  23. Hello all. Total newbie here who after years of wanting an RC and never getting around to it I have finally pulled the trigger on one. After reading @ThunderDragonCy build I decided to go with the DT-03 Racing fighter (preferred the body over the Neo). I had been looking at all sorts and a lot or RTR’s where coming up which would no doubt have been cheaper to start, but for me, I really wanted the build process from the start not just the strip/repair later on so started looking more at the Tamiya cars. Toyed with 4x4 because they looked more involved on the build, but decided 2WD would be a more sense initially just in case I don’t take to it all (plus I can get another 4x4 later 😂) So far I’ve only ordered the kit and some bearings so still need a fair bit before I can build it and run. I have a few of no doubt many questions for you all of you will. 1. Can you recommend a good ‘starter’ tool set? 2. What spares would be advisable to have handy? 3. Only glanced at the pdf manual so far but do you ‘have’ to paint the inside of the body shell? I haven’t decided on finish yet but had something in mind that would no doubt be tricky on the inside for someone like myself who has never done it before, but much easier on the outside. Looking forward to getting started, missus thinks I’m crackers (not much different to normal however!) Sorry for the long post and cheers for any help.
  24. I have a Rising Fighter I bought for my kids. It's had a couple of hop ups with my old CVAs and AMPRO rear shock mounts and transmission stabiliser but I have hunkered after a 4 bar front suspension. What can I say? I like tinkering. As much as the AMPRO kit is cool as this is my kids basher I really didn't want to move away from ABS plastic. That and not wanting to cry each time 22 bucks worth of AMPRO wishbone snapped in a big shunt! I also have a load of DT03 front suspension leftover from my upgrades to my Grasshopper3 DT03, and I saw some cool double wishbone mods on grasshoppers on YouTube which got me thinking...... First thing I needed was to make a plate to mount the DT03 central wishbone mount (DT03 part C2). I used some 3mm aluminium and the Rising Fighter parts as a template for holes. Hand made and a bit rough. Holes in the DT03 part are 20mm lateral and 21mm longitudinal. I drilled 4mm holes to give me some wiggle room then some 12mm m3 machine screws and nuts to secure I bought a pair of DT02/3 wishbone sprues Part No 10004254 on eBay for £6. Mount them reversed to clear everything. I used screw pins to mount them but 48.5mm shafts would also work. You need to open out the holes in the central mounting with a 3.1mm drill. They don't have a pivoting shaft on the DT03 so are a tight fit otherwise. I used the DT03 c-hubs (part B1) and uprights as I upgraded my DT03 to GPM metal c-hubs and blitzer uprights for truck wheels so I had them spare. The Rising Fighter uprights would also work but you need the c-hubs. I mounted the 64mm eye to eye CVA shocks in the outer position. For the top arms I used part 5 from the DT03 wishbone sprue Into the end of this I threaded a ball screw from the CVA shock kit I then lined up the part with the top of the chassis, backed up against the stiffening rib on the front suspension mount I used the hole in the part as a template for a 2.5mm drill to put a hole in the tub. I used m3 x 15 self tappers as they were spare but 12mm would work. I then drilled a second hole through part and tub and installed a second self tapper. The top arms and steering arms were all made using the DT02 turnbuckle set. I mistakenly bought this for my DT03 but the steering turnbuckles didn't fit. They are perfect here. All the longer steering arms and top arms can just as easily be made using M3 threaded bar and the tamiya ball ends and ball connectors. And finished. Really good geometry. No bump steer here Bit of fun with some spares really. If you add up the cost of parts all together I am not sure I makes sense but it works REALLY well. Maybe one for you GH2 ReRe buyers? Hope you like. Cheers!
  25. Found the screw pins backing out of the front hub ends of the wishbones. Would like to replace with shafts, but having measured the width of the wishbone ends at 22mm I am guessing the 3x22mm shafts recommended for the DT02 will be too short. I have seen some 25.3 which would work with spacers but only seen them in pairs. Are there any other lengths or kits to look out for which would have 4 or 8 shafts in?
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