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Found 32 results

  1. Brand new in box with Tamiya ESC (company cancelled my order due to no stock then fulfilled it anyway - grrrr - so have 2 kits now) The DT-03 Racing Fighter special black Edition is as per a new Tamiya Racing Fighter with some extras and hop ups:- Hi-Torque Servo Saver (Black) (51000) - £10 DT-03 Lightweight Gear Shaft (5x45mm/2pcs.) (54560) - £2.50 DT-03 Full Turnbuckle Set (54572) - £15 4mm Flange Lock Nut (Black, 8pcs.) (54642) - £3 RS-540 Torque-Tuned Motor (54358) - £13 DT-03 CVA Damper Set (54567) - £20 Im in the U.K. Happy for local delivery or collection (free) or postage to EU (£12) £150 JJ
  2. Shifted this thread over here as I posted in General Discussions as my first post before I knew about how things worked. Also, work on the car escalated and I wanted to keep a note of ongoing upgrades/changes. Hopefully of interest to DT03 runners/buyer. I have an original Thunder Dragon from 1988 which has had a bit of a restomod, but getting that sorted recently led to the purchase of a cheap Racing Fighter from Germany as I've never had a 2WD buggy before. First buggy full build in about 30 years, although the Thunder Dragon has been torn down and rebuilt several times. Really enjoyed it. I had an old Grasshopper2 shell in my bit box from back in the day, and I'd never painted a shell before. I don't like the modern look of buggies, being a child of the 80's I love the older buggies so I decided to have a go and some light body mods to fit it to my DT03. It was already slightly modified around the front shocks to fit on my Thunder Dragon. Here's a couple of trial fits with the primer on, trying to figure out the mountings and proportion. Couldn't resist getting the wheels on to see what it might look like: Figured out the body mods, enlarging the front hole to use the central front mount on the chassis, and adding holes in the haunches for the large l-shaped body mount towers that came with the kit. I ended up going narrower than I could have got away with on the front cuts. I chopped the DT-03 suspension mount in the centre to get the front of the shell on and off. Not bothered about the nth degree of wheel control and can always get the fancy TRF carbon one if I feel the need in future. After a couple of aborted attempts at orange from Tamiya and Halfords, and neither before strong enough for my liking and went for it with neon orange. Stickers are from MCI Racing, with red replaced with black, and yellow replaced with dark grey. Pretty pleased with how it came out. Another modern look I'm not keen on is the super short front overhang. I like the big 80s bull bars, so inspired by AMPRO Engineering on Youtube I knocked up a bull bar bumper in 3D CAD and got it 3D printed from Shapeways. Only cost a tenner! Sets the stance off nicely, I think. I do love the kit black star dish wheels though. As for the car, I loved building it and it seems solid. I've never had brushless before either, so I went for a 13.5R Speed Passion MMM motor from Modelsport who also did my some leads with tamiya plugs, and a steel 17t pinion and a bearing set to start with. The kit came with the CVA dampers with the fixed solid plates on top of the shafts. Initially I was a bit disappointed. I'm certainly no expert and have no plans to race, but it was very understeery and bottomed out a lot. Due to older equipment I have already, I still use ACOMS 27MHz radio and NiMH batteries to keep costs down which I've since learnt are on the heavy side, but they work fine in my Thunder Dragon! So, after going down the rabbit hole of what mods to do where, trying not to spend a fortune on hop ups and learning as I go, this I think is my basics for getting the DT-03 to somewhere near it's potential and also hopefully help some newbies looking at getting their DT-03 running nice in my opinion: 1) Junk the stock tyres. The deep rib fronts that come with the Racing Fighter in particular are useless on hard surfaces and I generally muck about in the street or at the yard at work. With the fiesty motor I started tearing through the rears too, and have ended up with Schumacher Mini Pin Yellows on the stock rims. Works great, and the yellows last longer than the blue counter-intuitively, because the blue is harder it span up too easily on hard surfaces and wore out. On things like the pump track in the pictures, the mini pins are immense. 2) Connected to 1 - Be honest about where you drive. Having burnt through cool looking buggy tyres I now have a second set of wheels (Schumacher Flexlite read, Tamiya Dish Front both in black) with Schumacher RT1s and medium inserts for tarmac. 3) Suspension - I'm using the DF03 (not a typo, the 4WD car) setting springs, hard rear, softest front. Both are firmer than the kit springs. The DT-03 settings springs were right out because the colours would have looked rubbish if I'd needed the red ones. Yes, I am enough of a tart for that. Plus, couldn't see the point of a softer set of springs if the kit springs were in the middle. I saw the DF03 springs suggested on a thread on here I think. Great call. I got the TRF 54043 piston rods for the rear shock and standard CVA mini shock shafts 50601 for the front and used the kit sprues and some e-clips to convert the dampers to proper pistons. After some experimentation I'm running single hole pistons with the kit Soft Tamiya 400 CST oil 4) I got the anti roll bars, but have ended up not using them. Now I have the suspension firm enough to hold the car up it handles fine without the anti roll bars. IMHO. 5) I used the leftover ball studs from the unused roll bars to replace as many of the step screws in the damper mounts as possible. Much nicer and less rattly I got a bag of ball connectors (50591) to finish the job off, although the fronts need a bit of filing to get them to fit the wishbones. 6) Turnbuckles - Don't be a cheapskate like me and pick up a cheap DT02 set, as the steering arms don't fit! These do seen good for getting the grip up though. 2-3 neg both ends. 7) Driveshafts - I had no issues with the toughness of the plastic driveshafts, but I couldn't believe how much they restrict suspension movement. I didn't want to spend out on Universals as I'm not racing. I ended up taking a leaf out of the Sand Viper book and went to the metal driveshaft and cups. Only cost about a tenner for the parts, and the car stands up at the rear about another 10mm! They look better too, IMHO. Parts are: Shafts - Tamiya 9805551 Outdrives - Tamiya 9804237 Hub end cups - Tamiya 50823 8) Geared diff with the kit seems fine. I stuffed it with grease as advised somewhere on the internet and does fine for me. 9) Kimborough servo saver was a fiver well spent. Much more crisp steering. 10) Not sure if the Hop Up servo mount was £18 well spent, but it looks pretty and does look into the chassis and servo much more firmly. I'm open on this one as it's pretty expensive. Hope you like it, and hope that helps anyone looking at getting a DT-03. Cheers!
  3. So if you want to jump straight to the changes from buggy to truggy/truck and an explanation of sorts as to why jump straight to it here... ——— So as the title tells you I’m a total beginner at this so be gentle! I was unsure whether to do a build as I imagine it’ll be of little interest to the veterans, but maybe someone in my shoes at some point will come across it and find it of use. Here goes then. I’ve wanted an R/C on and off for years but never got round to it until now (is that a recurring adult theme?) It was a definite heart over head moment as I did virtually no research(!) and pretty much jumped straight in. I looked at a few RTR’s but beyond the ease of getting up and running and the possible initial reduced cost I wanted the build part. If I’m honest that’s the part that’s most appealing to me, at the minute at least. So from that I started looking at Tamiya kits and was initially looking at 4wd kits but then I came across @ThunderDragonCy build and was totally drawn in by the build and tweaks he had done and bit the bullet on a 2wd DT03 Racing Fighter. Thinking about it afterwards I feel that was the right choice. Although the 4wd kits are by the look of it more involved to build I feel they would be less fun in use, possibly too easy whereas the 2wd kits once built and running should be more fun/challenging to drive. Time will tell...plus I can buy a 4wd later! So to start I just bought the kit with the CVA shocks, ESC and Torque Tuned Motor, but nothing else beyond buying some bearings, although I did buy a couple more bits a few days later but I’ll detail those as they come up in the build. The plan is to research the rest, (servo/batteries/transmitter and receiver) as I go. I’m in no rush and at the moment have very limited time to build the car anyway (first clue for you all that this won’t be a quick build thread!) Nothing exciting at first but I’ll be sure to document any issues etc I come across as a novice builder and then later with use I’ll share any tweaks etc. And if you’ve made it this far, well done 😂 So then, to begin...
  4. I love my DT03 chassis, but the buggy bodies available for it are a bit rubbish in my opinion. Always been a bit jealous of the nice bodies that fit the 02. made it to proof of concept stage today. This is a Team Azarashi Quracca body which was originally released for the Kyosho RB5. I saw it cut to fit a TRF201 and thought it looked ridiculously cool. Did a bit of research on the RB5 and turns out it was a rear motor buggy with 285mm wheelbase, so not far off the 03. Sealed the deal that the UK Azarashi importer has a deal on these right now so took a punt. It isn't cut completely to the cut lines as you might expect. Around the front tower is cut to the most forward cut line. The body is trimmed low. I just took the mould sill off and as little as possible to tidy it up to give enough coverage of the chassis. The rear is cut on and off the cut line to fit up against the shock mount bulkhead. There is the odd bottom corner trim here and there to clear suspension. It is pretty snug in the cockpit for the ESC and Rx but i have pretty large versions of both. It uses the L shaped body posts from the kit and was pretty easy to mark the rears first, set the height then do the front. Wing is from the kit too. You get two different shaped wings. I picked the most interesting shape. Quite excited about this. Got some paint on order and the body comes with window masks and a load of Azarashi stickers if you like them. Very impressed. I'll post up when it's finished. What do you think?
  5. For sale unused shocks all but one are new Tamiya 19402709 / Tamiya 54567, 1 set of front and rear black oil cva shocks, suitable for dt-01, dt-02, dt-03, df-02, tt-02B, NIP (new in pack), sealed, fixed piston type £15 inc. UK shipping next up... 1x used but cleaned and un-assembled thundershot / fire dragon / terra scorcher set of front yellow cva oil shocks in great condition, £12 inc. UK shipping next up... Tamiya 84347 CW-01 short shock set ONLY parts for 2 CVA shocks! could also be used for rear of dt-01,dt-02,dt-03 etc comes with soft rear springs, normal pistons and attachment parts £14 inc. UK shipping next up... Tamiya 19402709 / Tamiya 54567, 1 set of rear ONLY white oil cva shocks, suitable for dt-01, dt-02, dt-03, df-02, tt-02B, NIP (new in pack), sealed, fixed piston type no screws, ball connectors inc. this time just shock parts and oil bottle comes with normal dt-02, dt-03 rear springs, ideal for WT-01 if you have alloy shock towers (might need stiff springs though) £12 inc. UK shipping each. 2 sets of these are available next up... Tamiya 84366 wr-02 cva mini shock set in yellow, 2 shocks only, no attachment parts and fixed pistons, no oil bottle can be used also for dt-01, g6-01, gf-01, dt-02, dt-03 etc but you would need longer springs £10 inc. UK shipping Paypal gift please Going on ebay Sunday if no one here wants them
  6. DT Challenge 2018 7th October New venue this year …………. Swindon RC Car Club hosting Same Rules as previous years with the DT01 class now open to all DT01 cars (last year was just the Madbull) 20 places now available for the Hotshot gearbox cars …………. check out the rules and more info on the DT02/03 Facebook page
  7. This is the Mad Bull shell i cut to fit a DT03 chassis. You need to fit the tall L shaped rear body mounts to the DT03 to fit this shell. Neon blue paint, custom contrasting MCI Racing Grasshopper2 decals. Fitted with non-standard Grasshopper style spot light pods. Also drilled to fit a Grasshopper2 although the front of the body doesn't seal to the tub like a true GH2 shell would. Now i have my yellow GH2 shell and my Azarashi Racibg shell i just don't use it anymore. Here it is in use. This is when it was new Looking for £12 posted in the UK
  8. Hope the group mods don't mind me posting this, but after testing by me and a racer i know have decided I am confident enough in my DT02/3 3 deg toe in uprights to offer them for sale. I have opened a Shapeways store called CTE RC (https://www.shapeways.com/shops/cotic-rc) and have put them on there with a few of my other designs. There are fitting instructions on the part links on the store. No one else makes toe in uprights for these chassis which is why i did them. Hopefully some of you might find them useful, or fun, or just a nice colour (There are about 10 colour options). Here's a pic of Andy's cool DT02 and DT03 race cars and my DT03 truggy with them installed. There is a full installation and rundown over on by DT03 Build log The improvements I wanted was to reduce the size and make the uprights dedicated to the metal driveshafts. The kit uprights are bulky and bind on the wishbones. As you can see in this comparison, the new uprights allow about 10mm more suspension travel, which gives more roll capacity and more grip. No one else makes toe in uprights for these chassis which is why i did them. If you race you will find these a big step forward from the kit version. Andy (my tame racer) reports more rear end grip and stability and the ability to get on the throttle earlier out of corners. He was able to dial in more front end grip because the rear was better. Also reported it had a bigger impact on performance in the DT03 on astro than the DT02. Hopefully some of you might find them useful, or fun, or just a nice colour (There are about 10 colour options). If you would like to order they are available as individual left and right items. Left: https://www.shapeways.com/product/DHAWQ2DWJ/tamiya-dt02-3-rear-upright-3-deg-toe-in-lh?optionId=65301051 Right: https://www.shapeways.com/product/FPEB2TSM2/tamiya-dt02-3-rear-upright-3-deg-toe-in-rh?optionId=65300950 Cheers!
  9. Related to getting my 3 deg rear uprights, i am interested as to why the 03 is so unloved by DT Challenge racers and other track runners. To me (i am not a racer, but understand technical things) the 03 has longer wheelbase (similar to race buggies) and much better front suspension and steering setup. Same rear suspension as the 02 so even scores there. I have an 03 and although it took a few (enjoyable) months getting a setup on it, it seems like a great handling chassis. Any racers or track runners got any thoughts? More interestingly, are there any parts i could design within the mod class rules that would improve the 03 past the 02?
  10. Hi All, Has anyone managed to use the GPM aluminium servo saver with the remaining standard tamiya saver parts? Whilst the parts fit together the 'spring' is stretched slightly more by the GPM part making the whole assembly have a few degrees movement side to side. I originally thought i could use the GPM part with an old white Tamiya heavy duty saver but it seems the design is not compatible. I also I have a Kimbrough 114 would this be a better option? Many Thanks
  11. Next project! The massive bulky rear uprights on my dt03 offend me! They are huge to clear the plastic dogbones and with metal driveshafts in they actually foul the lower arms preventing full droop. Aluminium ones are rare and cost a fortune so I thought I would model up some slim uprights myself and get them from shapeways. Seeing as I am on this though, I can do pretty much anything I like so would it be good to add a degree of toe angle maybe? There's already some toe in on the car, but I remember the @super gripper write up bemoaning the lack if toe adjustment. I figure with a 1 deg pair you could either add or subtract some toe in depending on how that affects the car (I have no idea what the effect is by the way!) Would you want more camber link holes? If so, what configuration? Any other features I should add? Let's design the ultimate DT02/3 rear upright!!
  12. Need some C-hubs for another grasshopper 2 chassis I'm updating to 4 bar front suspension. Don't really want to buy the entire parts tree just to get c-hubs. Anyone upgraded to aluminium c-hubs on their buggy want to lighten their spares box?
  13. Hello all. Total newbie here who after years of wanting an RC and never getting around to it I have finally pulled the trigger on one. After reading @ThunderDragonCy build I decided to go with the DT-03 Racing fighter (preferred the body over the Neo). I had been looking at all sorts and a lot or RTR’s where coming up which would no doubt have been cheaper to start, but for me, I really wanted the build process from the start not just the strip/repair later on so started looking more at the Tamiya cars. Toyed with 4x4 because they looked more involved on the build, but decided 2WD would be a more sense initially just in case I don’t take to it all (plus I can get another 4x4 later 😂) So far I’ve only ordered the kit and some bearings so still need a fair bit before I can build it and run. I have a few of no doubt many questions for you all of you will. 1. Can you recommend a good ‘starter’ tool set? 2. What spares would be advisable to have handy? 3. Only glanced at the pdf manual so far but do you ‘have’ to paint the inside of the body shell? I haven’t decided on finish yet but had something in mind that would no doubt be tricky on the inside for someone like myself who has never done it before, but much easier on the outside. Looking forward to getting started, missus thinks I’m crackers (not much different to normal however!) Sorry for the long post and cheers for any help.
  14. I have a Rising Fighter I bought for my kids. It's had a couple of hop ups with my old CVAs and AMPRO rear shock mounts and transmission stabiliser but I have hunkered after a 4 bar front suspension. What can I say? I like tinkering. As much as the AMPRO kit is cool as this is my kids basher I really didn't want to move away from ABS plastic. That and not wanting to cry each time 22 bucks worth of AMPRO wishbone snapped in a big shunt! I also have a load of DT03 front suspension leftover from my upgrades to my Grasshopper3 DT03, and I saw some cool double wishbone mods on grasshoppers on YouTube which got me thinking...... First thing I needed was to make a plate to mount the DT03 central wishbone mount (DT03 part C2). I used some 3mm aluminium and the Rising Fighter parts as a template for holes. Hand made and a bit rough. Holes in the DT03 part are 20mm lateral and 21mm longitudinal. I drilled 4mm holes to give me some wiggle room then some 12mm m3 machine screws and nuts to secure I bought a pair of DT02/3 wishbone sprues Part No 10004254 on eBay for £6. Mount them reversed to clear everything. I used screw pins to mount them but 48.5mm shafts would also work. You need to open out the holes in the central mounting with a 3.1mm drill. They don't have a pivoting shaft on the DT03 so are a tight fit otherwise. I used the DT03 c-hubs (part B1) and uprights as I upgraded my DT03 to GPM metal c-hubs and blitzer uprights for truck wheels so I had them spare. The Rising Fighter uprights would also work but you need the c-hubs. I mounted the 64mm eye to eye CVA shocks in the outer position. For the top arms I used part 5 from the DT03 wishbone sprue Into the end of this I threaded a ball screw from the CVA shock kit I then lined up the part with the top of the chassis, backed up against the stiffening rib on the front suspension mount I used the hole in the part as a template for a 2.5mm drill to put a hole in the tub. I used m3 x 15 self tappers as they were spare but 12mm would work. I then drilled a second hole through part and tub and installed a second self tapper. The top arms and steering arms were all made using the DT02 turnbuckle set. I mistakenly bought this for my DT03 but the steering turnbuckles didn't fit. They are perfect here. All the longer steering arms and top arms can just as easily be made using M3 threaded bar and the tamiya ball ends and ball connectors. And finished. Really good geometry. No bump steer here Bit of fun with some spares really. If you add up the cost of parts all together I am not sure I makes sense but it works REALLY well. Maybe one for you GH2 ReRe buyers? Hope you like. Cheers!
  15. Found the screw pins backing out of the front hub ends of the wishbones. Would like to replace with shafts, but having measured the width of the wishbone ends at 22mm I am guessing the 3x22mm shafts recommended for the DT02 will be too short. I have seen some 25.3 which would work with spacers but only seen them in pairs. Are there any other lengths or kits to look out for which would have 4 or 8 shafts in?
  16. Evening all. Thought occurred to me: If I could move the extra cell on a hump pack 8.4V NiMH battery from the centre to the end, it would fit in my DT03 buggy which might be a giggle. Don't want Lipo or any of the associated hassles, but if I could cut open the pack and move the extra cell then I could get a bit more pep in my Grasshopper 3. Anyone done this? Any advice? Cheers!
  17. Bored at the inlaws. Been mucking around with the setup on my dt03. I am still working on it but on loose surfaces where I am enjoying driving and on the green ckmpound schumacher rt1 tyres on the road it is very oversteery. It's fun but would like a little more predictability to the handling. Aside from setup changes I currently have the kit geared diff with think grease in it. Seems to me that the car puts down its power fairly cleanly, and from what I understand from full size cars a locking diff might actually make it more oversteery because both rear wheels spin up together? I have I got this round my neck and actually there is more traction because the ball diff puts the power down more cleanly? What do you think? I'm not racing, just bashing and enjoying tinkering. However as much as I would like to delude myself otherwise that I am keeping hop ups sensible the ball diff is pretty much the only thing I haven't bought now so my as well go all in? What have you got people?
  18. Morning all. Happy Easter. I need to replace the plastic drive hexes on the grasshopper3. All the wheel changing is already wearing them out. I want some metal ones but there are scores of them available seeming to range in price from £2 to £20. Don't think I need clamping ones, just something more durable than plastic. Tell me what you think my learned friends!
  19. Packed the Grasshopper3 in my bag on a trip to the local park today in the hope of getting a quick blast on the small bit of astro they have there. Had long since assumed the grass would be too long/wet/full of dog crap to be any good for running the buggy. How wrong I was! Grass was short and bumpy and mercifully dog crap free, and I had a blast on my first proper run on grass. However, some recent enthusiastic driving/crashes plus learning to drive on grass = grip roll central = cracked body. Oops: I don't have any old/spare bodyshells with off cuts or anything. Anyone got any good suggestions what to use to fix this? I'm thinking just glue a small sheet of plastic to the underside of the split and re-drill the mounting hole, but I don't know where to source appropriate material. Thanks.
  20. Read a DT03 build thread just now and Super Gripper mentioned needing weight over the front in a DT03. Interested in this as I'm still learning about tuning the handling on mine, but never done it. Anyone got any tips on what to use and how to fix it to the chassis? Thanks.
  21. I thought I'd detail the build of my Neo Fighter here in case there are people who were interested in getting one. Box art is pretty eye catching and the yellow sticker on the top right hand side details the hop ups that came as standard!
  22. As I promised, here is a small overview of my cars so far. My first ever RC car I bought when I was 12. It was an M02 Alpine A110, and it was well used and abused throughout the years. I raced it in the Eurocup, where it soon found itself hopelessly outclassed against the (then-new) M03s. I parked it in the attic and forgot all about it. However, four years ago, my then-office decided to have a team-building exercise; build and race TT01s against the other departments. Because I was the only one with any clue how to assemble them, I was named chief mechanic and driver. After the big event I took the thing home, and promptly bought a second one. ... I guess you can kinda see how this goes from here... Four years later, and I have fully restored the M02, making it a light-duty runner with the only modern addition of a 2.4Ghz receiver and an ESC. The rest is pure '90s goodness, including an original body set. The TT01 received a Lancia Delta Integrale body set, and a rally interior soon after. The TT01 is still with me, I race it in the Dutch Tamiya Cup wearing a Toyota GT86 body set (the beautiful Lancia is just too fragile for the track).. For the local indoor carpet track I have two cars. I started out running the TT, but soon upgraded to a TRF419, currently in Stock 17.5t trim to comply with local regulations. It's an absolute beast, precise as a scalpel and quick like a fox. The other car I bought to compete with my wife. She runs a Tamiya F1 mutt (F104 with an X1 rear pod and setup, and a TRF102 frontend on foam, and I found the 419 to be outgunned. So I went and got a TRF102. The TRF F1 is still fairly new to me, and I'm still working on setting it up. I run it on rubber instead of foam, which puts me at a huge handling disadvantage compared to her foam-shod car. The 102 has the upper hand in power though, she runs a silver can, and I run a 21.5t brushless in blinky. We also have two DT03 buggies, just to mess around with on the beach, and I'm currently painting up a CC01 Mitsubishi Pajero MTW.
  23. Hi Guys, I am looking at getting a buggy to build once I have completed the CC01 that is currently on its way to me. I need help with making the right choice. So I am asking for advice from all the awesome guys on these forums. I'm looking at the three chassis below, 1. Grasshopper 2. Holiday buggy or any of the other DT02 Chassis 3. Racing Fighter or any of the other DT03 Chassis Any advice would be greatly appreciated. If you guys have other options for buggies, I would like to know that too. Thanks guys.
  24. 2x DT03 Neo Fighters bundle £105 price inc. UK shipping Would split bundles for £55 each Neo 1 Metallic blue body fully ball raced Oil shocks Modelsport XT-12 brushed esc (for motors down to 12t) etronix pulse ex2 sport 2.4ghz radio system inc 8x AA batteries in superb working order HPI servo 12t abisma motor - partially used - tested ok Torque tuned motor installed Road Hawg rear street tyres (spot glued on) Fully working in used but good condition, just needs 7.2v battery to run inc. manual Neo 2 Original chassis broke after a crash so... Rear gearbox section, fully ball raced, but has a split so new gearbox A parts inc!!!!! Front section fully ball raced New Chassis tree servo mount piece gearbox cups and shafts missing so new N tree parts inc!!!!!!!! Oil shocks front bumper hopup alloy bumper hopup carbon front shock tower 2x rear wheels and tyres (worn) 4x front wheels with tyres (great condition) 2x front tyres worn New body shell and wing uncut New decals uncut Acoms as-17 servo Torque tuned motor - partially used NEW IN PACK - HPI firebolt 15T motor NEW 2000mah nimh battery FLYSKY FS-GT2 2.4ghz radio set inc. good 8x AA batteries just need to assemble and add an esc to run or keep as spares!!!! Pictures in my traderoom, if more pictures required, just email me
  25. For Sale I have a few Sealed Nib DT03 Neo Fighters They come with ESC, oil shocks and torque tuned motor £59 delivered in the UK Tamiya Universals, new but not in packaging £10 each inc. UK shipping Suitable for Boomerang, Thundershot, Top Force, Blitzer beetle, DT02, DT03 (DT02/3 both also need metal gearbox joints) 1x Sealed Nib Fighting Buggy (Super Champ) 84389 £239 inc. UK delivery 1x Super Dragon bodyset, near mint from 1989, suitable for Hornet,GH2 and tshot chassis £125 inc. UK shipping
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