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Found 60 results

  1. Hi All! Newbie here! I bought a Sand Rover about 10 years ago and have only just got round to building it! The kit did NOT include a ESC so I purchased that a few weeks ago, along with an extra servo and Carson RC controller. Now, I might be missing something here, or things might have come on a bit since I last built one of these kits, but I can't see where the forward and reverse servo goes. There's nothing in the instruction manual to show it, and there isn't any kind of metal 'throttle' piece in the kit that the servo connects to, like I have in my 90s Blitzer Beetle. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated, as my 4 year old is becoming very impatient as to why the car isn't finished yet (yeah, yeah, it's my toy really...) :-D Thanks in advance!
  2. Tamiya Volac - BL2 Brushless Esc - 42144 - Brand New and unopened. Other sellers sometimes only order from Tamiya when you’ve paid! If it’s out of stock you then face a very long wait, and then sometimes disappointment when it can’t be supplied. Save the worry and be reassured of a quick and guaranteed delivery. In the UK now so no waiting or disappointment. Took months to get and not cheap, but fast becoming collectable. This is the ESC that Marc Rheinland used to win the 2008 IRMAR World Championship. For expert use: £320.00
  3. Hi, I have a few Tamiya, TRF tools and parts for sale: 1x Tamiya - 45057 TBLE-O2S Brushless ESC - £22.00 1x Tamiya TRF - 42147 Hex Wrench 2.5mm - £28.00 1x Tamiya TRF - 42161 Screwdriver M - £28.00 4x Tamiya TRF - 42351 Centre Pully - £22.00 each All plus postage. Feel free to respond here or email me directly: helenstott17@yahoo.co.uk
  4. Hi guys, I'd like your advice on this: Yesterday I've powered up my Manta Ray, a couple weeks since last time I ran it. As usual I've checked that everything worked while holding the car in my hand before driving it, everything ok. So I put it on the ground and started driving it around but, almost immediately, the car stopped working. I've checked to find out that the ESC was the culprit: it beeps and flashes red like when the BEC is activated, but there's no current at all going to the receiver (and therefore the servo). Most important, it smells awful like something short circuited inside the ESC. Something must have gove awfully wrong, but I've no idea what. The esc is the TBLE02S supplied with the kit, worked well for over two years with both brushed and brushless motors. I currently run a 13.5 bluebottle on NiMh batteries, had this setup for 8 months now and never had a problem. It was cold and humid when this happened, but again I drove it in much harsher temperatures so I doubt the issue is in any way weather related. Now the questions: -does anybody have an idea on what might have happened? I would love to know, if there's any theory or not... I know that ESCs like the TBLE02S act out like that sometimes, heard a few stories of all sorts so maybe I will never know what went wrong -should I even bother trying to fix it? By the smell I guess I can answer my own self on this one ahah -any advice on what ESC to get now? I would like something reliable and affordable, I don't need anything too fancy but I don't have much experience with ESCs as I guess I've been lucky with the ones supplied so far. Thank you in advance chaps for any insight ✌
  5. Here’s the info shown on the back of Tamiya’s, forward only, Volac BL2 ESC.
  6. I would like to get my Hi-Lux Monster Racer up and running after 25 years. I want to continue using the original acoms radio gear (AP-227 MK3). Can I connect an ESC into the acoms receiver? If so, what ESC would be suitable? The current receiver does not have BEC on it and is sealed so cannot plug/unplug wires into it. I assume that definitely means I will need a different acoms receiver? All new to me!
  7. Hi, another noob question I'm afraid. I have had a look through the discussion threads and couldn't see my exact question answered so please forgive me if I've missed it and I'll happily be redirected. I have bought a plasma edge 2 for my son and I to work on together, admittedly it is a basic electronics pack that I ordered as a bundle to get us going. All has gone well until right near the end. We did an original bind between the transmitter/receiver, all fine with correct response to input. We then fitted everything into the chassis and since then there is nothing except a flashing green light and beeping from the esc once it has power. I have checked the battery has power, checked that I didn't snap the wiring whilst fitting into chassis, changed the servo and esc channels in case that identified a problem with either. There is also no light on the receiver anymore, so can't even rebind as I assume at least part of the problem is that the receiver is not working or at the very least his no power to it. I've attached a couple of pictures to show how things are currently set up but can upload more specifics if that would help. I'm sure it's probably something I just haven't considered, hence asking for a more experienced opinion. Many thanks for any help offered.
  8. Hi there, As you can see from the title, my Tamiya Audi V8 set on fire this evening whilst out for a bash and I'm at a loss as to what caused it I had just turned the car on and found that the steering trim was out after driving a few meters so I adjusted it so the wheels were central and pressed the throttle to which there was no response. I tried cycling the switches on the receiver and checking the throttle trim was still at 0 but the car still wouldn't respond to throttle input. After trying this I turned the car and transmitter off and after a few seconds the wheels started turning slowly. A few moments later smoke started coming out the car so i quickly disconnected the battery and blew on the end of the motor which was glowing. I am running the stock ESC which comes with the torque tuned motor with this kit. Has anyone got any ideas as to what happened? Cheers, Seb
  9. Probably a recursive question, so apologies in advance and thanks for any replay on that topic. Car: Tamiya DT-03 full of hop-up parts, as many that I think buying an Egress would have been cheaper. Use: Occasional, just for fun, a bit of bashing but nothing extreme, just a way to disconnect. motor: Hobbywing xerun Justock 3650 13.5T G2.1 ESC: Currently for brushless only the Tamiya TBL-E02S, but not ready for Lipo's ( I have the alarm thing but I don't like it ) and the classic Tamiya aluminium plugs for the motor don't fit the 3.5mm golden banana males of the motor.. so I should have to cut and replace and I am not whiling to do it and prefer to keep it as it is and use it with NIMH + brushed stuff Battery: Gens Ace 4000Mah 50C Lipo ( tamiya connector ) Soldering skills: Almost none, but watched lots of youtube tutorials, so no skills. Based on all that data, I was thinking of the natural matching companion, the Hobbywing xerun XR10 justock, which is 60A and uses to be sold together as a combo ( I got the motor new from a guy but half the price ) The thing is, this ESC is not particularly expensive, around 60€, but based on my non competition use I was wondering if I could go for something cheaper, maybe also hobbywing? Would other brands work well too? What about Hoobywing clones? This combination seems to be designed to perfectly match together, the esc comes with banana connectors that fit the males in the motor, so no soldering is required apparently, at least esc-motor, and I guess I will have to figure out a way to connect to the tamiya battery. The ESC also claims something I can't understand about TimeZero.. Any suggestions on what should I go for? Thanks!
  10. So, i have decided to upgrade to a 10.5T Tamiya BLM for my WT-01. What should I consider for choosing the correct battery? I am using a TBLE-02S ESC. Suggestions are most welcome. Thanks
  11. Old Fart STUMPED! 😖 This is not a single Vehicle issue.... Two with HW 1060, and two with Axial AE-5 ESCs (a 1060 rebrand). Forward is fine, full range, smooth. BRAKE is fine, no issues... When going into REVERSE on all of them, the Motor BUCKS and shudders, until about 3/4 Throttle. 😲 All the time, all 4 ESCs! I've asked Friends, some of which have been in the Hobby almost as long as I have (37 years), and they're STUMPED too. Am I overlooking something simple and stupid?? If you know, or have experienced this, Please let me know. Thanks. 😉
  12. I have a standard TBLE 02s ESC in a Monster Beetle which works perfectly when the transmitter (an FS-GT3C) is on. However, if I turn the Monster Beetle on before the transmitter, then the car zooms off at full speed. I haven't encountered this with three other TBLE 02s's I have in other cars. I have just been through the manual to see if changing any of the setup options (high point setup, low voltage protection, reverse set up) make a difference, but with no luck. It's a standard 540 motor, and the TBLE is set to brushed mode. I have moved the receiver (an FS-GR3E) antenna away from the motor wires and separated the servo and motor wires, which were previously zip-tied together in places, but that has made no difference either. I've already once turned the car on before the transmitter and had it zoom off with no immediate way of stopping it, and sooner or later it's going to result in a crash. Does anyone know what could be causing the problem and whether it's possible to fix it?
  13. I'm just getting back in to the RC world as an adult. We just recently got two of the kids off-road trucks and after having to repair them a few times my tinkering fire was stoked. I have an extreme love for road racing in general, so decided I would get a little project for myself. I picked up a TT02R chassis kit and that is where I am at. I am literally starting from scratch with this. I've been reading/researching and getting great information, but the more I'm doing the farther down the rabbit hole I'm going and finding myself getting a bit more confused. I have a couple questions that I'm hoping can get answered here...or at least start me down the right path that I can follow up on. Motor? I'm pretty sure I want to go brushless, but not sure what size would be too much for this chassis. I would like it to be fast, but I also don't want to have to be constantly replacing parts because the motor is too much for the build. I had come across the Speed Passion Reventon R combo reviews a few places and it appears to be a good combo (based on user reviews). But very much open to recommendations at suggestions. Servo? I honestly haven't done much research on this component yet as I've been stuck on the motor/esc. Transmitter/Receiver? I haven't done much research in to this yet either. Although I keep seeing Futaba mentioned as being good???? Those are the main things that I am honestly stuck on and keep going in circles. Body, tires extras I can probably narrow down, although the choices seem to be very vast. I have a couple of tracks out here, so my main objective with this is to make it as fast as possible, without sacrificing the integrity of the chassis (too much), handle/corner well and enjoy myself while doing it. I'm not really interested in any serious racing, or clubs or anything at the moment. That could possibly be down the road, but right now I want to learn, research, tinker, upgrade, test and get accustomed to this style of RC'n. Thanks in advance for any advice, suggestions or roasts because I'm a newbie with basic questions haha. Looking forward to this build and future Tamiya builds.
  14. So I've been running my old Futaba 70mhz transmitter and receiver with a new Tble-02 ESC. I've been getting tons of interference with the transmitter and receiver so the car will speed off at times. Either there is inference between the ESC and transmitter or there is just too much noise out there in the neighborhood with all the other frequencies bouncing around out there Probably time to upgrade to. 2.4GhZ transmitter and receiver. So for my education would you all give some suggestions for a good set up for a new 2.4ghz radio? I'm sorta partial to Futaba but only because that's what I've always had. I'm open to new manufactures. I plan on build another Hornet and probably a Sand Scorcher or Super Champ so they will be getting new 2.4ghz radios for sure. So whatever suggestions you all have that would be helpful thanks! One other concern, I have several original Futaba servos that are in perfect working condition that I could reuse in my new builds. The issues however is that they are so old they have the original 3 pin male connector at the end. I see that all new receivers, ESCs, and servos now have the 3 pin connection reversed. The receiver is now the male and all that connect to it have the female end. Would someone suggest an adapter? Or just purchase new servos? I did find an adapter that allowed me to us the new Tble-02 ESC with the old Futaba receiver but I don't think that connector will fit into a new receiver? Or will it? Pictures attached.
  15. Dear racers, builders and collectors To BEC or not to BEC... THAT is the question... :/ I have recently joined your wonderful club, mainly because I fell in love with Tamiya and all the wonders and joys of RC's again. So, like many I had the Grasshopper as a kid and nostalgia made me reinvest in the reissued version which was a great joy to build as well as owning it once more. Since that time, I've bought the HotShot, Neo Fighter and a few others. The latest is Monster Beetle, however, since it's been a while since I built one again, I noticed my Carson's Reflex Wheel Ultimate Touch 2.4G's (this is the one Carson Reflex-Wheel-Ultimate) has a BEC that is a bit hard to find these days and anywhere I find it costs a bundle not to mention the shipping costs is astronomical. I need one so I may bind the Monster Beetle to my Remote Controller, I have the HotShot, Neo Fighter to bind perfectly, but I am now looking for another BEC to put into the Monster Beetle and maybe even upgrade my Grasshopper for the same reason. I have found these, which I don't know will bind with my Reflex Wheel Ultimate Touch Remote Controller: Carson 500501533 - Reflex Wheel Receiver PRO 3, 2.4 GHz Press for Info and this one Carson 500501536 - empfangerrefle xwheel Pro3, 2.4 GHz V.2 Press for Info My question and hope here is to have someone explain to me if this is a possibility that my controller will bind with these two or do I explicitly need the one that came with the controller like this one (Sorry no image only description), or can I simply buy any of the above mentioned alternatives and they will bind with the remote controller without problems? I sure hope you guys might have an answer to this, it's a little frustrating as I'm still not entirely sure how these things work, I had tons of problems with brushless non-brushless Tamiya ESC, I couldn't figure out the differences and it didn't work... I'm sure I did something wrong, heck it took me three hours to put the Grasshopper's rubber wheels together... when I was a kid, I did it in 20min... I don't know what that means, but let's just leave it at that... I hope you guys can help me cause I'm at a loss here, I wish to buy it via Amazon, if possible, but since they don't have the one I use exactly I was hoping I might be able to use one of these. Here is the manual for the Controller from Carson I use for the RC's I have. User Manual for the Carson Reflex Wheel Ultimate Touch The one place I found that might be okay but I don't know them, never ordered from them is this one: The Alternative however, the shipping is kind of a stab in the feelers, but, if this is the only place I can get it, or Tamico, then I guess I have to buy it... but please let me know if I can use those from amazon. Thanks a lot guys PS. Sorry guys for some reason, it posted my topic twice...
  16. I have a Tekin 410K ESC which has not been used since about 1994 mounted in one of my old cars. It worked perfectly when it was last used so I am considering reusing it with a different chassis. I am a little concerned about batteries, though, as the last time it was used we were still using NiCads. I would not use it with LiPos, but would it be safe to use with NiMh packs? I have no idea about the relative outputs for NiCads and NiMhs, (besides the obvious capacity benefits for NiMhs) so I don't know if it is a straight swap between the two.
  17. Hello, I have recently started acquiring parts again to rebuild a car which I bought in a drunken eBay binge about ten years ago. This should present no serious problems as I used to race 1/10 RC buggies when I was a teenager and the old-school technology is familiar to me. I was looking through all my old gear to see what was reusable, though, and realised there was some stuff I didn't know about the box of old brushed motors I had. If anyone can help with any of my queries here, I would be very grateful. 1. I have a purpose-made padded box containing eight old brushed motors of various kinds, including at least one 27T stocker and a number of old modifieds. I suspect the stock motor is probably worn out, but would it be possible to potentially recommission the modifieds? The commutators on some of the armatures might need skimming, but would the static can magnets still be viable, or do they demagnetise over time? Some of these motors have not been used for approaching thirty years, so if time is a factor in them still being useable then I fear it may have run out. 2. I remember BiTD that in the UK there used to be a maximum price limit for modified motors, which was the most which could be charged for them to be legal for BRCA competition (£40, rising later to £45 and then £50, if I remember correctly). These motors used to be described as hand-wound and were markedly superior wind-for-wind to the machine-wound modifieds which you could get for considerably less money. Looking on eBay now, it seems these expensive hand-wound motors have all but disappeared from the market, presumably due to cheap Chinese imports and the advent of brushless motors. I have a number of hand-wound armatures without cans to put them in, so would it be worth getting some cheap new brushed motors and putting the old armatures in them, or will the cans be of too low quality to make it worthwhile? Also, if it is worth trying, would I have to use a can from a motor of similar wind to the arm I a putting in, or are can magnets all pretty much the same? 3. Back when I was driving in the late 80s and early 90s, i managed to fry a number of Futaba ESCs by trying to run motors through them which were clearly too much. I have bought a new modern ESC to fit in my rebuild, but given that it cost about £15 and was bult in China, I have no idea if it has an upper limit for brushed motor winds which it is safe to use with it. It's a Hobbywing QuicRun Brushed Electronic Speed Controller ESC 60A 1060. Does anyone have a suggestion for an upper wind limit, or has technology come on so much in the intervening time that this will safely handle whatever I throw at it? 4. I still have a Tekin 410K ESC from my old car which would probably still work and have plenty of headroom for hot brushed winds. Would this work with the new 2.4GHz radio gear, though? It has the correct Futaba-pattern plug to fit the receiver, but I have no idea if the receiver-to-ESC signal path has changed along with the transmitter-to-receiver one. 5. Does anyone still even make brushed motor spares for these old modified beasts anymore? Stuff like brushes and brush springs? Thank you in advance if anyone has any answers to any of the above. I realise that the obvious answer to all of this would be "just buy a brushless set-up", but I still find the idea of them somewhat baffling and I am attempting to ease myself back into RC gently, before I start trying to comprehend impossible machines which run on unicorn tears. Cheers!
  18. need advise on motor , esc combos and links if possible ebay / amazon / ect ... thanks
  19. built a touring tamiya m-05 v2 pro bought a brushless motor,esc,servo, 7.4 v battery but can not get it to run in reverse , forward and steering work, tried to set it up multi times but no reverse what am i doing wrong have a FS-GT3C flysky transmitter
  20. The Cyclone came with a car but will not be used. The original box and manual is present, along with a spare capacitor and odd unused bits.Note that the chassis you see the Cyclone in is not for sale.The price is 15£. Feel free to give me an offer. It is situated in Denmark but can be shipped to the UK for 7£. For other countries please enquire and I shall check prices.
  21. Hey Guys My first posting here. So.. many years ago in a galaxy far far away when i was a young lad i received a brand new Boomerang as a B'day present already made by my Dads mate, much fun had! entered in Sunday meets (just 4 fun racin) and alot of after school bashing with me mate Cotsell. 30 years on after looking for gadgets to spend some hard earned cash on discovered that Tamiya were still going, after a second! contemplating decided got to get one. Having never before built a Tamiya or any other rc vehicle I were looking forward and hoping to be challenged by the build, Overall Enjoyed putting together found instructions very informative and build quite easy, did over a week for an hour or so each evening, the most daunting part of the project was the body cutting, experimented on the chassis cover with scissors, went ok but not perfect, The body however i wanted it to be perfection. So did some research from mainly you guys here on Tamiyaclub and was suprised that many of you mentioned scoring with a craft knife and bending was key, this works superbly and is actually quite therapeutic creating the bodywork this way (very light scoring and very sharp thin blade required). PLAYTIME First run.. 3000mah nimh battery, stock tble 2esc and silver Mahbuchi motor.(not recorded) Run 2.. hpi firebolt 15t motor same battery and esc but with steel 17pinion on motor. 26mph??? ..... according to iphone 4s app attached inside body. O.k to be honest i was sceptical about the old iphone 4s gps reading and app, so have now changed to samsung s6 with very good and tested app. Today , I received direct from Hong Kong Ezrun 9t brushless motor and esc combo (£27.99) fitted, works well and leaves skidmarks all over laminated flooring in house 😀... will inform if any requests are taken on next run.. Any guesses ?
  22. Hey guys - Markbt73 has infected me a bit with enjoying the performance of the Novak Edge/Ballistic setup I now have in my DF-02 runner. Being a relative n00b to brushless I have no intrinsic sense as to whether I'd see similar performance by picking up one of Tamiya's entry-level BL motors and using it with a TBLE-02S I have just sitting NIP in a bin. To be honest I've been pretty underwhelmed by Tamiya's ESC's other than the TEU-101BK and TEU-302BK. All the others have hard-wired limited reverse capability and I can't seem to see any performance improvement between them (am I missing something?). Lucky for me, people think that the 101BK is 'less good' than the 102-105BK, so I regularly buy them whenever I can for anything under $20 NIP. So - basically, I'm skeptical that the TBLE-02S is even worth bothering with brushed or brushless. Except if I go and buy a $60-70 Tamiya BL motor (I'd only go for a matching motor - I like things that match) then I'd be wasting a lot of $ and still seeing lackluster performance. BUT maybe I'm wrong...! Has anyone tried one of these combos and have good things to say about it? Particularly relative to other BL systems you've used?
  23. Morning, I’m having issues with my new Super Stock RZ motor. I bough it as an upgrade motor for My Lunch Box. I’ve also bought a Mtroniks Tio Storm 19T ESC to power it but it’s not working. The ESC only beeps when I put it into forward or reverse? The steering servo works fine. if I connect my original motor (supplied with the Lunch Box) the Mtronkis works that absolutely fine? So I’m a bit stuck as to what to do. Do I need a sensor cable from the RZ motor? There seems to be a slot in the motor but nowhere to connect it within the Mtroniks ESC, if I did buy one? I believe I’ve set the ESC up correctly as it powers the original motor. All help greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  24. Very new to RC and have just almost completed my first build of a Black Dark Impact DF-03. I was very lucky and got to visit Tokyo and specifically a fantastic store called RC Champ/RC Adviser and pick up a complete RC setup. I have some questions about installing a Brushless Motor to replace the 540 stock motor. My problem is that I am trying to install a Yokomo BL-SP4 Brushless Motor but it is not the same length as the stock 540. By disassembling the rear of the chassis I was able to get the Yokomo fitted but the solder mount for the three wires is an extremely tight fit and I had to bend the wires back to get them leading the correct direction and out of the motor mount to reach my ESC. Secondly, I just am too stupid to understand how to Setup the ESC correctly. I hold down the SET button but don't understand how long I am supposed to wait for the LED Lights to change when setting Neutral, Forward, and Brake. The Yokomo manual is very poorly written. Reading the setup part of the BL-SP4 manual can anyone help me out? Setting up an ESC should be very simple but not for a beginner with no experience, BL-SP4 manual
  25. Hey all, Rediscovered my Super Hornet from 20-odd years ago and would like to resurrect it for the small humans to play with. Opened it up and found that the only thing missing was the speed controller. My thinking is that a budget ESC would out-live the kid's interest in the RC car. Looking at the specs of the Super Hornet on the Tamiya website, the car has a 27 turn 540 brushed motor, running on a 7.2v NiCD battery. 1) Would an OCDAY Brushed 60A ESC be suitable for my application? 2) Are the brushed ESCs able to be reprogrammed with the brushless programming cards. The abilioty to lower the power specs would make overall control for the kids more enjoyable at first. 3) If the original NiCD battery no longer holds a charge, will a NiMH 7-pack battery be suitable with this ESC? Cheers,
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