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Found 6 results

  1. I've been delaying posting this until I was sure I had everything figured out and wasn't going to be halted due to cost or loss of interest. So, after my Bad Influence (Stag) Jugg/TXT build, I had a bunch of reasonably viable parts left over: Then another thread reminded me of a project I'd wanted to do before, but had abandoned due to lack of skill, so off it was to eBay - and with the help of waterbok nabbing some parts from Germany when my address was deemed invalid I ended up with this haul: I decided to go with Jugg2 axles instead of RC4WD Blackwells because they had the input offset I'd need to reduce driveshaft angle, it was cheaper for a matching pair, and I wouldn't have to purchase adapters to fit the Clod wheels. Also, I'm going to use the stock Jugg servo saver setup with a single servo for 4wheel steer (which may be changed depending on how many times I roll the truck). Yes, those are alloy Jugg E parts and a leaf spring bag. We're going old school. Then, it was off to Rhino - quite a bit of steam coming out my ears getting all the measurements right and double checking positioning but then I got this: Currently, according to Shapeways it'll be shipped on Mar 8, and then I'll be able to test fit things and see how wrong I got everything. Can anyone guess what the final product is supposed to look like? (there's a hint in the title of the thread)
  2. Hello guys, to release me in this section I will introduce you to my mst cmx 1/10 and with the different bodies that I have short battle of tamiya. Mitsubishi Pajero: Can videos be placed in this section? I apologize for my ignorance but I do not want to disturb or that the moderators call my attention.
  3. OK, yet another super-quick Mad Ax parts-bin special. This one's been in the pipeline for a while in a totally different format, but has suddenly morphed into something else. So it began towards the end of last year, when a random search on Ebay turned up a rolling TA03F chassis in reasonable condition. I'd never owned an TA03 of any sort, in fact my experience of Tamiya on-road chassis is fairly limited, so for a bargain price I figured this one was worth an own. I had a bunch of 1:10 on-road shells looking for homes, so I figured it would be a good donor, and since the TA03F was famous for its good-natured drift handling, I thought it would be ideal for getting back into drifting after a very long layoff. It was only when I opened the packaging that I realised something was amiss. It seemed small, too small for a touring car. It wasn't an 03F after all - it was an 03FS. Cool, I thought! An alternative 1:10 wheelbase! Now I can fit something a bit shorter to put some variety into my street car collection. Straight away I went online and started searching for suitable shells. And found absolutely nothing, bar the HPI 106 body. That size is pretty much obsolete, and there's very little out there in terms of drift shells that fits. After a good deal of soul searching, and some razzing around in the house, I eventually discovered a battered old Monster Beetle shell made a perfect fit, apart form the gearbox hanging out the front, and a crazy plan for a Mad Max style drift rig came to mind. I actually got as far as stripping and rebuilding the chassis with full bearings, mounting the shell, fitting electrics, and competing in a local friendly drift night before I decided that, actually, the beetle shell wasn't for me. Not that it wasn't cool, but it just doesn't fit with anything else I have. For a while I considered biting the bullet and going for the 106 shell. It could be made to work, with suitable sponsor decals, if I made it up as a "106 RWD conversion". I get slightly upset putting FWD shells on 4WD or RWD chassis. Then I tried a Blackfoot and a King Blackfoot shell. The wheelbase is actually about right, but the chassis is too wide, and the gearbox doesn't fit under the front bumpers. It could have been made to work, but would have been yet another long-winded custom body job and I've got enough of those on as it is. So I clambered up onto the mezzanine storage level in my garage and pulled out the uncut body from my NIB Landfreeder. I was pretty sure this had to be the same wheelbase as the Blackfeet, but with a more forgiving front end that might just be enough to hide the F's bulbous gearbox. A quick check with the uncut shell and it looked near enough perfect. Twenty minutes with a sharp blade and Amazon Prime Video in the background, and I had myself a cut Bush Devil body. Which fitted nicely over the gearbox, but suddenly seemed too long... No bother - the 03 rear arms are reversible, to slightly extend the wheelbase. The dogbones end up on a sharper angle but still get full suspension travel without binding, so should be good for running. Propped over an inverted chassis, the wheelbase looks good: And with the holes for the rear body posts cut, it all fits rather nicely: So, where does this go next? Well, I didn't drill the front body post holes because the posts aren't really long enough, plus I want to decide exactly how low the shell should sit. Right now the car is wearing some very soft springs on the original shocks, but I've got a set of NIB low-friction dampers for the TA03 which should stiffen it up a lot. I'll probably set the chassis fairly low to the ground, as this will only be used for drifting on smooth floors, and will go for a stiff setup. The wide-offset rears actually poke outside of the arches just a little, so I'll either need to mount the shell high or make sure the suspension doesn't have much travel. Probably the latter, as this truck should look pretty low and mean. And what about that ugly gearbox sticking out the front? Well, the Landfreeder / Bush Devil shell comes with a nice spotlamp / bullbar assembly up front, which should do a good job of making the gearbox. And there's always scope for adding a custom bullbar assembly mounted directly onto the gearbox. Still to do: build and fit new shocks determine ride height source longer body posts cut front post mount holes in shell decide on paintscheme clean, mask and paint shell fit shell hardware go play watch this space...
  4. i'm not sure whether or not it's a good deal, but my spidey sense makes me think it is and that a NIP blue driver/tailgate set and NIP clear window set are hard to find these days. i don't want 'em and i don't benefit or anything... just wanted to pass along the info... http://www.johnshobb...&product_id=268 http://www.johnshobb...&product_id=199
  5. Well those to topics got me thinking about my former plow truck. It was built on a cut up tl01 chassis with a blackfoot body and home built aluminum plow. I always liked it and had good feedback but in order to help out my nephew I dismantled it and gave him the body and plow gear. i still have the chassis such as it is and am thinking of restoring it back into a car again. Anyhow back to the present I also have my first scale project a modified TA02 with a blackfooot body as well. As it was snowing yesterday and my wife was away I made a pot of coffee and started digging through some of my scrap and found enough aluminum to recreate another plow. While its not complete yet i made pretty good progress. Plow blade made, split a piece of 1" aluminum tube and opened it up. I used some other odds and ends to make the brackets to mount it to the truck. i haven't built any up right s to mount lights as I don't have any yet. Servo mounted for the lift need to build the linkage this morning and mount some electrics maybe even some paint. Jay origional plow truck new plow parts and pieces progress as of this morning
  6. Hi, just won myself an F150 Ranger on Ebay but it looks like it may be missing the driver figure. So if it is missing is there an easy replacement? I can find the drivers for the Brat fairly easily and was wondering if that driver is the same, Or should I just try to get a Blackfoot or original F150 driver? Don't know how easy those are to get though.....
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