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Found 16 results

  1. Hi, some may remember my account. I haven't been active lately, life obligations got onto me, good ones tho. A friend (John, later in text) and I are back on the speed run thread. After a pause in this hobby, John decided to make his comeback with a Xray T2 007 and a brand-new factory built 3Racing Sakura Advance S, as I understand it is a decent entry level race car. Nothing too fancy, I don't know his final setup yet, but I want to give this challenge a try with my old FF03 that in the last speed run challenge hit 103km/h. I think it was 2020 when we had the last challenge... John drove a AE TC6.1 with a 3s setup and managed to achieve a speed of 113km/h, while my FF03 achieved 103km/h. I don't remeber the rations now, but my setup was a 3s Tamiya TBLE01 / TBLM01 8T sensorless brushless combo. This time it is similar (I unfortunately sold the tble01 combo) with a Carson Dragster 10T motor, it is actually a rebranded TBLM01 10T. I can guarantee this, as the ESC Dragster Carson is identical to a TBLM01. I can not use the TBLE01 esc, it burnt out and haven't found somebody experienced enough to reroute the connection and restore the board. (picture below) https://imgur.com/Xxq94ZH Anyways, the setup China ESC 120A 2-4S (4s will be eventually used, chaos mode ) Carson Dragster 10T 4300kv 2-3S (4s will probably work also but once ) Savox 1252MG (low profile servo, mounted with @wtcc5's technique) GEAR RATION: Spur 64P 72T //// Pinion 64P 60T /// FDR 1.20 diff Spur 52T /// Pinion 20T /// FDR 2.60 FDR: 3.80 (this should on 3s run 103MPH /// 172km/h) There is a Yeah Racing diff set with a 50T diff spur, that would bring the FDR down to 3.70. I already have the tamiya 54471 steel gear diff. My question where I need advice is, what kind of gear diff putty should I use or only oil? if oil? what kind of oil? I obviously will not be racing through corners, I need something that will hold stable under load in straight runs. and please share thoughts and ideas about this setup. 72T 64P vs 35T 48P (for reference) The Chassis Since this will be a 100MPH run, I have put a bit of thermal paste on the heat sink for MAX efficiency The motor The ESC ( ) funny how it can be the same price for 45A 60A 80A and 120A, this is a hit-and-miss Other parts on order This is what racing on a budget looks like if this thing hits anything near 100kmh I will be more than happy. Taking suggestions for body choice!! Tire recommendations are also welcome!
  2. Threadit: This began as a TA04 build, which quickly became a TA04-SS kit rebuild followed by a TA04-TRF bits-a-build. Essentially building a super-hopped-up TA04 without a base kit, just all parts sourced from the web and spares. I then realised that this is a thing I do. Looking for parts for one build, getting over excited and buying so many hop ups and parts that the original kit has so many left overs, you can almost build a second car. With just a few more parts. I love the research, I love the list building, I love the quest to search these parts down. I love working out how it will all fit together. And I love building them. I realised that in various boxes around the place (primarily hidden in the loft ) I have nearly all parts needed to build: TA04-TRF (Mercedes AGM CLK-DTM Mercedes AMG-GT3 Audi V8 Touring) Build complete / body to finish TA04-R (Mercedes CLK GTR Original Teile Audi R8 LMS) Build complete / body to finish TA04-R/TRF (Ford Mondeo BTTC) TA02-SW (Porsche 911 GT2) Complete TA02-W (Nissan 300ZX IMSA) TB Evo III (Mercedes 190E Skyline GT-R R32) Build complete / body to finish FF03-RR (Peugeot 306 Maxi Alfa 155 V6TI) Build complete / body to finish TT02 Type S (Audi R8 Nissan R390 GT1) So rather than do a build thread for each, I thought I'd edit this thread (Threadit! Geddit?) and turn it into a bits-a-build project thread My name's Juhunio, and I'm a bits-a-build addict. So, back over to the original thread....the threadit kicks in on page 3 starting with a TA02-SW 911 GT2 Then continues here with the TA04-R ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This thread begins with a body shell. An AMG CLK-DTM 2002 shell, to be precise It's a beautiful thing, and I had planned to put it on an Evo3 build that's somewhere in the works. But it came pre-drilled with body post holes for posts mounted on the front damper mount, not the bumper So I needed another chassis for it. I already have a couple of TT02s, and really enjoyed the experience of building the more retro TB-02, so thought I would go back in time once again.... A bit of research showed that the TA-04 had body posts in the right place, and also had a bit of a quirk in the two-belt drive system. I've got a TA-05 and TA-07, so the TA-04 sounded like an interesting bet I found a built but mint condition TA-04SS Audi TT-R DTM, which came with an unpainted body shell and TRF dampers So I figured this would do the trick! Swap the rear arms to those from an S or R to achieve the 257mm wheelbase, and I would have an interesting build and a home for the AMG shell But then I started investigating TA-04 hop ups and, well.....
  3. Hi All, (I posted by mistake in the wrong forum so I'm reposting this here) There's a common trend "in my 30s and back into RC" and that's exactly where I'm at; did lots of nitro 1/8 buggy as a kid and then gave it up for bigger things and now I'm back to relive the nostalgia!! A month ago I bought a Kyosho Ultima 2WD, then a Tamiya Grasshopper and now a Tamiya FF-03 (I like 2WD), and I've decided to document this build process a little because the blogging aspect of it interest me. I've got a lot of video, and some pictures, but the build video will come at the end when it's all complete. The kits is a basic FF-03 kit with the CR-Z body, as that's all I could find; FFs are hard to come by, at least in Switzerland. CR-Z body was sold immediately and I got a repro Honda Accord JTCC body, as I'd like to make a super touring JTCC style FF car, and instead of the standard Gathers or Castrol colors I've decided to make a unique creation that is still period correct; a JGTC Raybrig liveried JTCC incarnation. Raybrig didn't had a title sponsor in JTCC as far as I can tell at the time, and definitely not with Honda, so this will be an NSX Raybrig inspired livery reproduced on a Honda Accord. The basic FF-03 has a few short comings that I've learnt from this forum, so I got a couple of upgrades beforehand. I started out with the MUST haves, and left the SHOULD have once I drive the car and learn it; I've never driven a street RC car before so have lots to learn: - Replaced the plastic out drives with Yeah Racing Aluminium Ball Diff Kit - Upgraded the drive-shafts with Tamiya 44mm Double Cardan Joint Drive-Shafts - Got the Tamiya CNC Motor Mount for improved cooling. - Aluminium Hex Drives (in various thicknesses). - I also decided to replace the steering mechanism with the 3Racing Aluminium Steering Kit. - The Aluminium spur gear mount was impossible to found to I decided to machine my own out of Alu stock; it fits perfectly and it's very stiff! A few photos: Green RAYS TE37s from the NSX kit were also impossible to find, so I've got these green Speedline 6 spoke wheels from the 190E kit in 26mm. First observations after putting the kit together in running form: - The rear shocks seem almost too short; they are fully extended and the ride height is very low. I don't know if this is how it should be but I might move the upper joint outboard by one hole. - The front upright mounts are touching the A-arms, which means I cannot add any negative camber (shorten the upper links); is this normal or have I done something wrong? - The 3Racing steering links are rubbish; there are basically no flats on the hexes so you can't adjust them when mounted. Terrible part.
  4. In hindsight I should have called the „wtcc‘s FF-01 addiction“ thread just „FF-addiction“... Well now I need to start another thread. This time my FF-03 is the protagonist. Some of you may know that I have my FF-03 for three years now. So why this build thread? The reason for it, is the abnormal history of this chassis. It all started 2017 with a standard FF-03 Castrol Honda Civic kit (58467). Initially I wanted to buy the FF-03 pro kit, but that wasn’t available anymore at that time. The purchase of several fitting tuning HopUp parts eased that pain. As I wanted to run this kit, this was its first layout: The car proved its potential on track more than I would have expected: Again, who knows me, knows, that the car then changed drastically in the following months. I wanted to have more steering and another f/r-weight balance. With a lot of steps, the car became this: In between, I had changed so many parts, that the original chassis got reborn, as my friends and I relived the VW Scirocco Cup: Later the car ended in parts and disappeared in his box. Which is a little sad thinking about it. I checked today, many parts are missing or were changed for the development of the KR-MF. For the last days, I thought about a last project for this year. As I missed out on two very good FF-01 offers, the rebuild and tuning of the FF-03 will be the conclusion of this R/C year. I already ordered the parts today and hope to start the build after christmas
  5. Hi all! I am after a Civic type R R3 rally project. I am toying with the idea of using the civic shell on top of a FWD converted XV-01. The goal is to obtain a realistic FWD driving experience for off road. Do FF-03 shells typically fit on an XV-01? The 2 chassis look similar enough in terms of layout (front mounted engine etc) but when doing conversions and unusual mix and matches there's always a catch it seems! Thanks!
  6. Looking for a JAS Motorsport Civic Type-R R3 body, any condition. I don't believe any repro was ever made but if you happen to know about one I would also be interested. Thank you!
  7. Hey everyone. I wanted to post pics of my 99% finished Tamiya FF01 and FF03 cars. It's taken forever to get them to this point so I guess I'm kinda happy I'm about done. First is my FF01 which started out as the FF01 New Beetle kit. I purchased it new on April 2, 2000. I raced it and wore out multiple VW New Beetle bodies and wheel sets. I've replaced the VW body with the Honda Castrol Civic body set. Next is my JAS Honda Civic Type R FF03. I originally had this done minus the body attachments but the decals started peeling around the edges of the body. I removed most of the decals and purchased a new set from Tamiya USA (psst...they are having a sale on some FF03 parts.) Anyways, I made some edits to the decals and used the heat gun and now everything is sticking nicely. Also, I'd totally buy a Tamiya heat gun. I don't know how you can apply decals without one for some of these body sets. Seems like a missed opportunity for Tamiya. My heat gun has two settings, low and high. Even on low, you can only point the heat at the decal for about a second maybe two before things can get out of hand. Last item for this kit is installing the roof scoop and wing. They are primed but I need white paint and I've been lazy in obtaining it.
  8. Hi All, I'm brand new to the forum but I've been reading for a while, so please delete if such a thread if it doesn't meet rules. There's a common trend "in my 30s and back into RC" and that's exactly where I'm at; did lots of nitro 1/8 buggy as a kid and then gave it up for bigger things and now I'm back to relive the nostalgia!! A month ago I bought a Kyosho Ultima 2WD, then a Tamiya Grasshopper and now a Tamiya FF-03 (I like 2WD), and I've decided to document this build process a little because the blogging aspect of it interest me. I've got a lot of video, and some pictures, but the build video will come at the end when it's all complete. The kits is a basic FF-03 kit with the CR-Z body, as that's all I could find; FFs are hard to come by, at least in Switzerland. CR-Z body was sold immediately and I got a repro Honda Accord JTCC body, as I'd like to make a super touring JTCC style FF car, and instead of the standard Gathers or Castrol colors I've decided to make a unique creation that is still period correct; a JGTC Raybrig liveried JTCC incarnation. Raybrig didn't had a title sponsor in JTCC as far as I can tell at the time, and definitely not with Honda, so this will be an NSX Raybrig inspired livery reproduced on a Honda Accord. The basic FF-03 has a few short comings that I've learnt from this forum, so I got a couple of upgrades beforehand. I started out with the MUST haves, and left the SHOULD have once I drive the car and learn it; I've never driven a street RC car before so have lots to learn: - Replaced the plastic out drives with Yeah Racing Aluminium Ball Diff Kit - Upgraded the drive-shafts with Tamiya 44mm Double Cardan Joint Drive-Shafts - Got the Tamiya CNC Motor Mount for improved cooling. - Aluminium Hex Drives (in various thicknesses). - I also decided to replace the steering mechanism with the 3Racing Aluminium Steering Kit. - The Aluminium spur gear mount was impossible to found to I decided to machine my own out of Alu stock; it fits perfectly and it's very stiff! A few photos: Green RAYS TE37s from the NSX kit were also impossible to find, so I've got these green Speedline 6 spoke wheels from the 190E kit in 26mm. First observations after putting the kit together in running form: - The rear shocks seem almost too short; they are funny extended and the ride height is very low. I don't know if this is how it should be but I might move the upper joint outboard by one hole. - The front upright mounts are touching the A-arms, which means I cannot add any negative camber (shorten the upper links); is this normal or have I done something wrong? - The 3Racing steering links are rubbish; there are basically no flats on the hexes so you can't adjust them when mounted. Terrible part. more to come...
  9. THIS has been a long time coming! A long time WAITING. This is the very start of what I'm calling "Life 2.0" 😁 What does that mean? WELL...... After more than 9 years of living destitute, begging like an animal - and being harshly shunned for it. After not knowing how we were going to make Co-Pays, or some weeks EAT...... It's ALL OVER! Covered for the rest of my Life, providing for Kids and my Grandbabies.... Time to get SPOILED!!! 👍👍😊 So the first of the Kits I'll be doing, is the FF-03, which some of you already know. I DOVE RIGHT IN and started building! So I missed out on doing a step by step... Which is OK, because there's Guys here who can do it much better than I. 😜 I will be posting highlights, and all modifications here... There might be a small chance that I come up with something that you guys hadn't thought of. 😲 It could happen!!! 😜 These will also end up out of order.... As I get to processing pictures of the build. I promise I'll be more organised by the next Build. I just got EXCITED!! Starting in the middle, with a different way of fitting the Servo, offering more protection, then doing the same for the other side, for the ESC and Reciever. I guess for Racing Weight - the Chassis is quite narrow! Starting with the Servo fitting, 20kg, all Metal Geared for some OVERKILL!!! 😜 Thanks to the 2.4GHz Radio, I can do enough adjustments to keep this 20kg Servo from RIPPING apart the Steering Gear!! In the FF03, the Servo is held in with the typical two Screws.... But the support is a wide open Plastic Frame, that leaves the Servo basically hanging over the side of the Chassis, COMPLETELY open and exposed to Road Debris and abrasives!! I'm compelled to FIX that! .... I'm notorious for making odd shapes out of Styrene. 😜 (I'll STILL be using my Poorman's Shapeways when possible!! I like working with Styrene)😉 Like THIS!! I've filled the hole...... Just a bit of reengineering!! 😉 AND it will also help prevent Pebbles from being kicked into the Steering by the Tires!! Tried to make it look as good as possible... but its first function, IS function! Of COURSE my OCD had to do the OTHER side - so it's symmetrical!!! 😜 I'm really having so much fun building AND modifying this! BTW, they DO clear the Body on each side, by at least 18mm. 😊
  10. I have some unused FF03 parts. Brand new, never run. The plate and a couple of the plastic parts have been dry assembled to ch3ck an idea. I was going to use these to build a 3 gear stand-up conversion for my TRF211 but they didn't fit. The gearcase isn't included as it has already been sold, but I have all the rest of the plastic parts still on the sprue. £10 posted for the lot. £25 worth of parts if you buy new in packet from a shop.
  11. Now sold, thanks. James. After picking up a super cheap TA05 V2 today I decided it was time to sell my FF03. It comes with a few hop ups including tuned springs and anti roll bars ( also includes the spare bars ) , Alloy motor mount plate, Alloy spur gear holder, official Tamiya hex screws almost throughout (with a few exceptions) and also fitted with Tamiya Reinforced Slicks Type B2, with TA04 Pro inner shaped foam inserts and Team Losi White Dish Wheels. Also includes the original motor mount and a spare set of wheel hexes. I decided to leave in the LRP Quantum ESC, Reedy KR 12x2 Motor and a steering servo. It is good condition, the base of the chassis is a bit scuffed up, but would make a great runner/club racer car. Selling cheap on here before it goes on ebay. £75 posted within the UK. If needed I can swap the wheels and tyres for kit standard Tamiya 6 spoke gunmetal wheels and tyres from the Raybrig HSV 010 kit for £70 posted. Open to offers / possible swaps. Any questions, feel free to ask. James.
  12. As per the title, looking for hop ups for my FF03, new or used. Primarily the carbon motor brace, aluminium suspension mounts 3 of 1XD and 1 of 1A, universals, etc etc. Basically what have you got for the FF03 hop ups wise thats for sale ?? Many thanks, James.
  13. I have a few projects going on at the moment and I've been meaning to start a build thread for a while. I will post about the cars as I'm working on them, some may take much longer than others and some may never get finished . Here's what I currently have in the fleet, if anyone would like to see or ask a question about a specific car just shout. TT01 - Countersteer drift car. TA02 SW - Built chassis intended as a shelf queen but I messed up the body so need to buy another. Bruiser - Part assembled for almost a year. CC01 - Built chassis (stalled camera car project). TA02 SW - 40th Anniversary still in box. FF03 - Speed run car (*worlds fastest FF03 82Mph) F103 GT - Built chassis with Mugen body currently a shelf queen but intended for speed runs. TRF 419x - Built chassis planned for 17.5T blinky club racing. M05r vII - In progress. TT02 - Stalled speed project, either TT02s conversion or shelf. TB04 Evo IV - Silver can challenge car, current fastest silver can powered Tamiya at (44.8Mph) TRF 418 - Speed run project car going for triple digits and current fastest Tamiya Club Car (85.5Mph) (94.8Mph) I'll start with the M05. I'm working on a Swift body for it and at the decal stage but need to visit my friend and get some more vinyl cut but here it is as of today. It's a V2 R kit with lots of nice Hop Ups included from Tamiya so the only additional parts are carbon towers, hollow carbon gear shaft and 3Racing graphite side trays. I ordered the towers before I built the car and have discovered that the front tower is completely pointless. I just noticed that to fit the 3Racing side trays I need to drill the chassis holes for the mount to sit flush . The pointless front shock tower: The side tray problem: Chassis: It was a nice build overall and I'm very much looking forward to running it. My current plan is to finish the body and then decide on the motor but at the moment I'm thinking about a 2s, 3.5T setup . EDIT *Wild claims relating to having the worlds fastest 2s FF03 are to the best of my knowledge correct at time of posting.
  14. Looking for a TRF418 onwards and a FF03. Rolling chassis or complete setups, just let me know what you have and how much you want. Cash waiting and ideally from within the EU but would consider from further afield. They are for a friend, I'm not hording honest Thanks Doug
  15. Due to my semi-venetian life, due to the impossibility to drive most of my cars, due to my philosophy tending to downgrade I’m going to sell: Modified 58405 CR01, most of the parts needed to switch it back to original conditions, some spares and Tamiya CR Tuned motor: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/77887-tonkatsu-20-cleaning-refurb-some-mods/&page=1 Euro 250,00+shipping from Italy Upgraded 58467 FF03 Honda Civic, several option parts, SpecR gear diff, fluorine dampers & more http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/71205-fs-tamiya-ff03-optional-parts/#comment-636969 Euro 200+shipping from Italy Modified 58384 Subaru Brat re-re without electronics as shown in the build thread: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/77454-subaru-brat-its-time-to-bring-it-back-on-the-road/ Euro 100,00+shipping from Italy Lightly modified 58482 Stadium Blitzer, chassis need to be changed due to failed modify. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=106905&id=22640 Euro 50+shipping from Italy All cars are intended without electronics. Open to deals
  16. I try to race at one of the local clubs at least once a week, we don't have a club in the town where I live, but there are three or four within 30 miles radius. There's a bunch of four or five of us that usually descend on the chosen club of the evening, and we try not to cause too much trouble. However sometimes its just just much more fun to take something to race that's a little bit less serious than the latest 1/10 competition touring car, so we've started racing our older cars. It came about as we were reminiscing about the old cars that were still hanging around in the lofts and sheds. My first proper car was a TA01 tiger strip Escort Cosworth, and I still have it, sort of. It's a bit like triggers broom and only a handful of parts are original. It's still great fun to drive tho, and very forgiving. Thats mine on the left wearing the Cavalier body, and my mates TA02 wearing a Carson Astra body. They looks really good as they tussle, pitching violently into each corner. They are nowhere near as composed as a modern chassis, but much more forgiving. We are using old 27t stock motors as the track is quite small and has a ban on brushless to keep the speeds down. This isn't a bad thing per se, as it means the cars are having a relatively gentle time. More recently, I tried one of my FF01s there, it was great but the old plastic seems to be very brittle and I broke the front gearbox. It was good while I lasted tho. Ill get more pics when we try to take things less seriously. But we still end up having good racing.
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