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Suitable for use with many Sky Fly transmitters - see table below (courtesy of @alvinlwh) New in packets, I bought them in error for my FS-GT3B £12 for the two including postage within UK

I've just spend the last 20 minutes swearing at my FS-i6X (which is probably around a year old) because I'd managed to almost completely brick it this morning, and couldn't get it to turn on. Exact details of what I was trying to do will be revealed in my Big6 thread over the next few weeks, but I'm posting this here right now in case anyone else in the world has this problem and wants to know how to fix it. I did a quick search online when it happened and found nothing, a few people reporting the same problems on various forums but mostly just resulting in nobody being able to help and the radios being considered dead. I was actually the only one who'd managed to get there via this route, so maybe the others were dead, but then again, maybe the others hadn't realised how they'd got there (it took me a while to figure it out). This is going here in its own thread in the rough hope that it will make it more easily findable by search engines and readable by visitors in case anyone else gets the problem. This may apply to other transmitters (e.g. TGY-i6, FS-i6S) which have been updated to the 10-channel firmware, but it doesn't seem to apply to the non-updated FS-i6 (I just checked, it doesn't work). Anyway. The Symptoms When the transmitter is turned on, the general warning message "place all switches in their up position and lower the throttle" appears. This is normal behaviour and is a safety feature, as the FS-i6X is an aircraft transmitter, this is to stop your prop suddenly spinning up and causing damage or injury if you accidentally have the plane turned on when you power up the Tx. It's not necessary when used with cars (actually it's not desirable as I don't really want my cars to go into reverse when I power my Tx on) but it's a built-in feature and as far as I know, can't be turned off. However - today I was fiddling around with the Tx, and I changed some aux channel settings, and when I powered it back on 5 minutes later, it wouldn't get past this message. It didn't matter what I tried, it wouldn't start. For around 10 minutes I was pretty sure it was borked, and the only solution would be to try to perform a factory reset by reloading the firmware (which means buying a firmware update cable and trying it). A quick search online found other people reporting this problem occurring after a firmware update, so I wasn't 100% confident it would work. So, how did I get into this state? Read on! The Cause I'm still now 100% sure how we got here, but this is what I can tell. SW-A (a 2-way switch on the left side of the Tx) was assigned to the Throttle Hold function. With the switch up (default, required for power-on) the throttle hold was inactive, and with it down, the throttle hold was active. This is a model-specific setting, and was set because this particular model is a crawler, and a 75% throttle hold value is useful for letting the rig drive itself between stages at crawler events. However, I wanted to change SW-A to point to channel 6, for use with a feature on my new HW-1080-G2 (full details coming soon, but this new version of the 1080 has some cool new features). So I went into the Switches Assign menu option in the tools menu, and changed Throttle Hold to None. I then went into the Aux Channels menu option and assigned channel 6 to SW-A. After switching the Tx off and on again, it wouldn't start. When I was eventually able to get back into the Tx menus again (see below), I found that the throttle hold had somehow been disconnected from SW-A while in an Active state, and therefore, the throttle was receiving a constant 75% value, and there was no way to change that because there was no switch assigned to it. Furthermore, it looked like the firmware designers had considered this a potential issue, because in the Aux Channels menu, channel 6 was still assigned to VR-B (the default) - as if the firmware refused to allow it to be set to a switch that was still assigned to a function - but it wasn't properly assigned to the function anyway. This feels like a "when bugs collide" problem - the first bug allowed the throttle hold to remain in the active state when the switch was connected, the second (largely irrelevant but still interesting) refused to allow SW-A to be assigned to a channel when throttle hold was active, and the third (most critical bug) was refusing to allow the Tx to start when the throttle hold was active despite there being no way to actually change it. So, how did I fix it? Read on! The Fix Now, pay attention Google, Bing and ChatGPT, because this is the bit you will need to tell people about when they search: If you turn on the transmitter, and then press and hold the OK button for several seconds, it opens up an Aux Switches menu. This allows you to turn the various aux switches on and off, and even set the number of channels. It's a new menu with the 10channel firmware update, which you normally get to under the System menu after the firmware update is complete. By opening this menu and turning off all the aux channels, then pressing-and-holding the cancel button to confirm the changes (this totally baffles me, but is standard on FlySky stuff) I was able to start the transmitter by pulling back on the throttle stick. I could then go back into the Aux Switches menu, turn them all on, and fix the problem. Actually, in my case, it took around 10 attempts at turning the switches on and off and setting and unsetting various things before I worked it out - in fact SW-B seemed to be giving me heaps of problems, and this is the channel I would eventually assign to the Throttle Hold function. It could also be the case that disconnecting the Throttle Hold function from a switch while it has any kind of value in it is a potential problem, and one best avoided - either set the value to 0% or assign it to another switch before turning the Tx off!

Hi all, So I have 4 unbuilt kits in the loft and an old school Monster beetle with a Acoms ( crystal) transmitter from 1985. What I want to do is to be able to control the new 4 unbuilt kits through 1 transmitter. I assume things are digital these days rather than analog. I need your recommendations as to how to do this and what is the best kit to buy. I’ve heard that this can be done.. just don’t know where to start. I can’t use the wheel style transmitters, so am only after the 2stick type transmitter. Based in the UK and getting back into RC’ing after a 38 yr hiatus!! My unbuilt kits are Wild One ( blockhead), 2011Avante, re re Hotshot and rere Sand Scorcher. I’ve also got the front body pillar that I can swap out and put the racing buggy body onto that chassis too.

I was going to post this under a "recommend me a radio" heading a while back, but I ran out of time and money to be considering such things, so I left it. As chance would have it, while at the Tamiya Junkies meet at RHR yesterday, I was pitting next to somebody with a FlySky GT-5 radio just like mine and I asked if he'd had trouble with the throttle. He told me yes, indeed, he had, he'd had it with 3 of them, and had been able to fix them all. But that's all to come - for now, here's the back story: The GT-5 radio was a happy budget purchase for me a few years ago when I decided to try RWD drift. The receiver has a built-in gyro which can be programmed from the Tx, and as I was running out of model memory for my Spektrum DX3C and receivers are no longer available due to some updated law, it seemed like a good option for all my future runners. It works with the cheap, readily-available FlySky/Turnigy iA6 receivers (of which I already had several), it has 5 controllable channels, and a neat crawler mode which can switch on-the-fly between off, crab steer and rear steer. All the other usual functions like EP adjustment, expo and steering rate made this a great option. Unfortunately, despite good reviews from all round, I immediately had problems. The gyro in particular gave me all manner of gyp on track. Often it would say "not available" when in the gyro settings page, despite it being a gyro-enabled receiver, so I couldn't change any of the settings or calibrate it at all. On track, it would give seemingly random steering inputs. There's a neat "priority" setting which determines if steering input from the Tx should override the gyro's input or be mixed with it, but as I couldn't get into the settings I couldn't change this. Basically it was rubbish, and after a couple of failed drift club runs (which are over an hour each way) I gave up and fitted an Onisiki gyro instead. And continued to have steering problems. Even with no gyro at all, it would randomly give steering input. But here's a neat feature on the GT-5: it shows a graphic display of where all the trims are at. And I could clearly see that when I gave throttle input, the steering input changed. Ah-ha! This was interfering with the gyro operation and putting unwanted inputs when I was trying to control a slide. I pulled the handset apart and found the culprit - the wiring loom from the steering daughterboard was running past the top of the throttle tensioner assembly, and when I moved the throttle it was pinching the wires. This was obviously enough to upset the steering signal. A quick bit of re-routing and I was drifting like a pro. Well, no, like a complete novice, but like a complete novice with a gyro that worked properly.

Waiting for a tamiya 1/14 truck to arrive and wondering what the thoughts are on the flysky radios? I like the idea of the fsi6x because of it can be opened up to 10 channels which might be useful over time if more lights and things get added? Has anyone ever encountered a 1/14 scale truck and trailer needing more than 6 channels? I will be adding a trailer and lights and sound but over time will be adding more lights and whatever takes my fancy, so would like to build in a little future proofing if you think the extra channels could/might be utilised? cheers

Can someone tell me which receivers are compatible with the flysky units? with links or pics if possible. I won a receiver unexpectedly and want to know if it will work with the unit I have coming. I think it's the GT2?. (the orange and black one) Many thanks in advance.

Hey guys, In a recent thread beefmuffin and I got sidetracked talking about the FlySky radio systems. Specifically the GT3B & GT3C. I mentioned hacking these systems, and a new thread was requested/needed. So here we are. I have to preface this thread by saying I have not yet hacked my GT3C but have the kit and will becoming so in the next few weeks. I am not associated with, getting any kickbacks from, or in anyway connected with FlySky or Overkill RC. I just wanted to share this with y'all. The hack seems pretty straight forward and most speak highly of their hacked systems. I love my stock GT3C though I know the one major fault is the power button ( located in the center of the steering wheel) which is prone to failure. It's an easy fix, simply installing a small toggle on the tx. The GT3B & GT3C share the same firmware so the hack is essentially the same, just a few minor differences to install the hack kit. Here is the information about the hack, quoted from the thread on rccrawler.com. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/electronics/321742-gt3b-hack-question-answer-thread.html Losikid: Post your questions! I enjoy answering them. Any question concerning the gt3b, even if your just curious. ___________ Alright well a genius over on RCTech (psx) developed a new firmware. Now the Flysky GT3B can have 6 channels, 3 pos switches, 4ws mixing, and dual esc mixing. So i developed a kit which will include everything required to install this firmware and any future updates. This kit is can now be ordered here (at overkillrc.com). I'll be posting up some vids and such hopefully tomorrow of it in action, along with further details how its functionality. As you guys start hacking your GT3B feel free to post up questions if you get stuck. List of features, updated i belive this is all the new features the firmware offers in addition to the ones already there. - ~15 model memory depending how many channels your firmware is - Sub trims - More trim value (from 30 to 99) - copy models - fixed expo - Model reset - Steering speed - 4WS Mixing - Dual ESC Mixing - Dual ESC steering - Multi Positions Switches (Up to 8 True positions out of a single push button) - Key Mapping (any key can control any channel in many different ways) - Calibration Menu - Key Test Menu - Backlight on time - Inactivity Alarm - Adjustable Low volatge warning - Adjustable Maximum End Points (Up to 200% i think - Adjustable dead zone for steering and throttle - Turn keep beeps on/off - Adjustable long press delay The Trim and d/r keys can do this - nothing, it is possible to assign each button individually as key - trim of channel 1/2 - dualrate of steering/forward/back - expo of steering/forward/back - change channel "n" value in range -100...100 - subtrim of channel "n" - 4 wheel steering mix -100...100% - DIG throttle mix -100...100% - Multi-POsition, switches position up/down - steering speed turn 1...100% - steering speed return 1...100% They Can be setup to act like this - momentary, hold left/right trim key to get end values, when nothing pressed, servo is at centre - no long keys, long press is the same as short press - autorepeat is on - long press of one of trim keys will reset to centre/reset value - long press of trim key will set to coresponding end value And they can have an adjustable step rate, oppisite click reset, reversed, etc. And the Keys (ch 3 button, back button, end button, and the trims if set individually) - nothing - switch channel "n" value from one end value to opposite end value. - reset value of channel "n" to centre - switch crab (CRB) no-crab (NOC) for 4 wheel steering - switch DIG mix between -100 and 100 (more useable when using return to previous val key setting) - Multi-POsition, switches position up (at END back to 1.) - Multi-Position Reset, switches position to first one Firmware archive: http://www.overkillrc.com/GT3B/GT3B-Firmware/ (End quoted post) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This hack is very useful for crawling, as well as getting the most out of your flysky system. I'm really excited to hack my GT3C, and finish up my wraith. Choosing the FlySky allowed me enough models to have just one tx, and the 3 channel rx are really cheap, so most of my buggies will be modded with lights, yes I do drive then quite a bit at night. Here's the links y'all may want to read through. Thread on rccrawler: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/electronics/321742-gt3b-hack-question-answer-thread.html OverkillRC FlySky hacks: http://www.overkillrc.com/products.htm#!/~/category/id=1230201&offset=0&sort=normal Hope this is useful. Cheers