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Found 12 results

  1. As in title could somebody who owns both, tell if it's possible to just swap certain parts and or if the gearbox fits at all into the monster chassis. Would be interesting if it's possible just to replace the old ball diff with the new gear diff. Thx
  2. So I have been restoring my 30 year old fox these last few months (new chasis, ESC, wheels, tires, a couple of suspension arms) and I finally thought I got it going. I have a 30 year old brushed Le Mans 240st (nothing fancy) and today when I took it out for a run it sounded like the gears were stripping. Sounded like someone driving a bad stick shift. How do I know if it’s the gears or drive shaft? When I turn the rear wheel there is about a 45 degree slack before the other wheel kicks in and turns the opposite way. Just bumped about the new issue!!
  3. Hello. I have rebuild my tamiya hornet and i have ran it two times so far. I have a hobbywing 1060 esc and its ball raced and has a black sports tuned motor. The issue is that it seems there is a power loss and a weird noise, like a zzzzzzzz on the air it sounds okay and it spins great. On the road, i punch forward and seems the noise is faster than the move, like its slipping. I thought it was the rear wheel adaptors but those were okay. I also took apart the gearbox and all gears, diff and all pins and stuff were okay and present. Now cause i bought it second hand and it was my first time building it, i didnt have the tamiya grease, so i used the Hudy graphite grease. I didnt follow the manual, but instead i put a generous amount of the grease in all gears etc, until they all became black Would this be the issue? and if yes, can i clean and reuse the parts? gears, counter gear, diff etc? can i wash them with water and let them dry? how do i clean them? and should i use again that graphite grease or should i get a tamiya grease? if i cant find one, what other grease can i use? thank you all
  4. MuntyScruntfundle

    WT01 woes. x2

    Hi folks. I recently picked up a couple of WT01s. With the first, within 20 minutes of running I started getting a grinding from the gearing on acceleration, especially from a stand still. I've pulled the gearbox apart and had a really close look at everything, I couldn't see any obvious sign of any grinding gears, but I replaced the diff gears and the final drive axles. It was a lot better for about 5 minutes then it was back to grinding and loss of drive again. The other kit is waiting for paint so I swapped over the gear and motor block, sod me if I haven't just seen exactly the same. Perfect for the first few minutes, then grind and loss of power. I haven't taken this gearbox apart yet, but it's exactly the same sound, so I doubt - without advice - I'll see anything untoward. I'd heard these gearboxes are nearly indestructible which is why I bought them as first use bashers, but at the moment they're both in the garage. Has anyone found this? Or know where I should start to look? Thanks.
  5. Lately I've been working on parts for my re released cars. Here are some gearbox side plates for my ORV, a replacement for the first one I bought in the mid 80's I was happy to see that Tamiya have replaced the hex drives but as most of us know, the side plates are still weak. These plates are machined out of FRP or g10 material with areas around the suspension pivot, battery door pin, motor and bearing holders left at full thickness for reinforcement. I don't plan on making this a production piece since I don't have the time to make them. Anyway, a much more economical and elegant solution is already available from mheald elsewhere in this forum :-)
  6. Hi guys, I have just bought a TAMIYA R/C LAND CRUISER 40 PICK UP GF-01 for Xmas and i'm getting a few things sorted before starting the build. I have ordered some metal bearings and a steel pinion. What i cannot seem to find is, a metal set of gears cogs / differentials. Do you know if anyone makes a set or if not, are the black plastic ones that come with the set, the reinforced kind? I'm also looking at the Yeah Racing suspension kits. has anyone tried these or got any thoughts on quality of Yeah racing aluminium spares? Thanks Matt
  7. I've probably just done something real stupid, but I hooked up the MFU to my part-built MAN TGX at lunchtime and the gearbox was making a bad grinding sound when running, and I can feel a vibration thru the chassis. It shifts smoothly and the roadwheels turn with the motor, the grinding increases in pitch as I go up thru the gears so it's almost certainly something on the output side - I've probably just put a gear in the wrong way round or maybe used the wrong screw assembling the case so the teeth are touching something they shouldn't, but thought I'd throw this up in advance just in case anyone has experienced this before. I wasn't going to run the truck until I'd finished the shell but I was in the process of getting the wiring nice and tidy when I thought I'd best give it a test-run. I'm really glad I did, although there's still a lot of disassembly to do to get the transmission out
  8. I was wondering if there's any upgrades to the gearbox on the SRB that would make it stronger?
  9. After having a reasonable success with fitting the 4274 Ezrun motor in my TXT-1, I've decided to try and improve the fitment by designing and building my own gearbox for it, designed around the 4274 sized motor. I set myself the following design goals: 1. Centre the motor above the drive shaft. 2. Lower the motor to improve the centre of gravity. 3. Allow the fitment of Traxxas Revo UJs with threaded securing pins, as well as standard Tamiya drive shafts. 4. Re-use the existing Tamiya TXT-1 gears 5. get rid of the need to use 1160 sized bearings on the main transmission shaft. 6. Allow the use of a 12tooth to 20tooth pinion. 7. Lower the output shaft to help straighten the UJs This is what I've got so far: This is the main rear plate of the gearbox. It holds 2 idler shafts, and the main transmission shaft. The bearing housing for the main shaft holds 2 1260 bearings. Rear bolts are recessed into the body. Idler shafts are press fit so do not drop out or rotate. Comparison of size with a normal transmission case. Supporting rods for the other main plate are 5mm steel Home made steel components. The hex drive started life as round bar. It will be loctited onto the main shaft with gear locker eventually. Assembly so far. It is interesting to note that the TXT-1 gears have a perfect tooth count for 2 of the idler gears to run on one shaft. Perhaps it was originally the intention for the gears to be fitted in this manner, but some other design requirement resulted in the actual TXT-1 layout that uses 3 idler shafts instead of 2. The next plate will have the motor mount incorporated into it, so that will show the design off better. The motor sticks out in front of the transmission as it does in the king hauler gearbox. The 4274 will hopefully slot between the top links of the suspension. With the idea that I currently have for the motor mount plate and the method for attaching the transmission to the chassis, the motor will sit 20mm lower in the chassis. I have also decided with this project, to build 2 gearboxes, one for myself, and one to sell on.
  10. In the gearbox of a re-release Sand Scorcher or Buggy Champ, has anyone replaced the 2 nylon gears (the Final Gear and the Counter Gear) with stronger, metal-type gears? If so, where can I find these type of gears? I am not looking to go with the Hopup Differential but rather just replace the gears. -- Jeff
  11. Hey guys, I'm looking for a very good condition (can be used, just not cracked or scratched badly) set of silver plastic gearboxes from a TA02SW Taisan Porsche. I already have black, red and soon blue gearbox parts but I still need the silver ones and I would like to use them on my TA02 M-chassis conversion I bought from Japan recently. If you have a set, please let me know
  12. Hi I recently have been fixing up my Brat, which was in a bit of a state. Yesterday, I got the electrics up and runing, and took it out for a run. All seems to be fine. The only problem is the rear axle. On the left hand side, it keeps poping out. I have tried gaffer-taping the joint boot to give it a bit more strength with the axle bone, but still no use. I also tried some cable ties around the joint boot, but it keeps happening. It usually runs fine on tarmac, but the moment it has any bump, it disconects from the rear suspension piece (far left side) and pops out. So, has anyone else has a similar problem and manage to fix it? While this may seem a bit stupid, the Joint Boot on the left side is torn in one place, and the end next to the gear box has been frayed/torn up slightly. Is it worth replacing it? Thanks in advanced