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Found 7 results

  1. OK, so yet another new project started during lockdown. Perhaps if we have a 4th or 5th wave I might get them all done... I started this one because it was something I could do while watching films with my toddler on Wednesdays. At least until I had to start doing tricky custom stuff in the workshop. My daughter returns to nursery for the first time tomorrow and I'm back at work full time, so no more Wednesday build days - that's good, because every Wednesday I'd end up with yet another cut body to paint, or new built chassis to find a body for, or, in this case, built truck chassis to mess around with. Anyway, the plan here is to build an automated tipper using a Grand Hauler chassis and day cab, Lesu tipper and electric lift assembly connected to the MFU's 5th wheel / remote leg actuator channel. Like all big rigs this will be a longer project, but it's been good to finally make a start - the box has been in my bedroom for a few years now. I haven't bothered to take a million photos of the build or the box or anything like that, if you're in here you probably know what a rig build looks like and there's a million other build threads if you don't. This is basically a journal of the ideas I've had, problems I've come up against, obstacles I've overcome, sidestepped, ignored or been defeated by, and stupid things that have happened along the way. There will no doubt be many. So, here we begin: with yet another stupid diff rebuild. Those of you who have followed my lockdown builds will see that I've been here before a few times over the last few months - all my TLT axles were built to crawl, so they were all locked. This one seems to have been locked with some kind of solidifying putty. It might be an axle I acquired built from someone else. Either way, I had to prize it apart with a scalpel blade. Not the best use for a scalpel blade, admittedly, but nothing else would slide between the gap. After destroying a scalpel blade and nearly losing an eye, I used a screwdriver to get it the rest of the way open and a lot of brute force to get the innards out. Now, as luck would have it (see previous threads on the subject), I already had some araldited diff internals sitting in a tub of IPA for around 2 months now. They are finally dissolved enough to be cleaned by hand and reassembled. These diff parts were damaged by a screwdriver tip while levering them out, but they're in the IPA cleaning themselves as we speak in case they can be repaired for another locked diff recovery later.
  2. Hi! Some of you know that I've been at this Hobby since 1983, and have done quite a lot of Tamiya Kits.... Well, thanks to a giant Life Changing Event - I get to finally start on the Big Rigs!!!! ๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜ Just bought my first, the Grand Hauler. Seems like more parts than any TWO kits I've ever built. Including the Avante! This is going to be FUN!! I already bought a BUCKET LOAD of options and Hopups. Hope you'll join me! ๐Ÿ˜‰ It only took me 27 Years to get here!!! ๐Ÿ˜œ My massive 24lb. Maine Coon, Gizmo, decided that a 1/3 of the Box was more than enough room for him! ๐Ÿ˜œ๐Ÿฑ
  3. My first big rig. It's still a work in progress. It needs a driver figure, a sound and light system plus a few small details to be complete. The camera didn't pick it up but the paint is metallic. The paint and clear didn't flow and level very well so the finish required a lot of extra effort. Sanding and polishing around all those rivet heads was a right pain in the back side! More to follow. I have a flat bed trailer to build.
  4. Hiya Folks, I just got my 1st ever taste of a Tamiya scale Truck, 1/14 th grand hauler...love them American truckers. Anyhooo, sorting thru some logistics, curious which battery packs some of you are using? I know recommended was the 7V Tamiya ones with its own connectors but can I use a Lipo for more juice instead, and which types are suitable... Thanks peeps!
  5. The details include MFC 01 and Tamiya Light Gun Metal paint. It is mostly a stock build with a couple small changes. I installed the speaker over the steering and shift servos using brackets from Bob at HobbyConcepts. This facilitated a clean, detailed cab interior; all electronics are in the sleeper. I fabricated a styrene sheet to close off the cab from the sleeper and covered it with felt to simulate a privacy curtain and cover wires. I currently am awaiting an order for JST micro plugs/sockets which will be installed between the MFC and cab roof lights and turn signals. This will facilitate easy separation of the cab and chassis. I wanted fog lights so swapped out the Grand Hauler front bumper for one from a King Hauler. I added two LEDs to the stock LEDs providing illumination for all light buckets...no dummies. Horns are Tamiya metal replacements... metal bullet roof light are on order. I fabricated an aluminum diamond plate for the rear of the frame and a temporary one for the front covering the coupler servo. I have not yet decided on the final layout of the fifth wheel/coupler linkage and servo. I have a motorized leg set and Tamiya flatbed on order. I intend to install wireless lights on the trailer using a second receiver as in Bobโ€™s video. The visor is attached with machine screws. I have the painted rear fenders but went with the half fenders and mud flaps...more traditional look. Control is via a Turnigy TGY-I6 radio/receiver modified by Hobbyconcepts. I like having the shift on the three position switch. I have all MFC functions using this radio and employing high/low rates as per the video. I am investigating the use of an electronic switch, controlled from the radio, that will provide on/off capability for the vibration unit while maintaining MFC control of the unit. To display the truck I purchased two 72โ€x12โ€ and a 24โ€x12โ€ laminated shelves; one of the long ones was painted flat black. A stop was installed at either end...donโ€™t want it to find itโ€™s way to the floor. The assembled unit occupies the top of two adjoining bookcases in our home office. The truckโ€™s on/off switch, under the driver step, is easily accessible. With the tractor placed, 52โ€ remains for a trailer...plenty long. I will likely apply brick paper to the back wall and a loading dock/roll-up door on the right end...maybe add some gooseneck scale lights.
  6. Hi, my name is Ray...retired...raced 1/10 dirt oval in mid-80s at Bolink in Atlanta, GA, USA. Flew planes, heli, drones...out of all that and easing back into surface. Love the 1/14 semis. Have a Grand Hauler coming next week and want to plan a build for the months ahead. If I understand correctly and trying to stay as stock as possible: * for US prototypes I will likely use an MFU-01 for sound as MFU-03 is European. * desire to have low speed operation, not top end speed. Option to use reduction gearbox in addition to stock 3 speed OR use a 50-55 turn or 80 turn motor. Advice? * planning to use a Tamiya Attack to keep it simple, though the Tenergy TGY-I6 looks attractive. Advice welcomed.
  7. I am building a Tamiya Grand Hauler (#56356). I am installing the MFC-01 MFC (#56511) and using the Tamiya Attack 4YWD-2.4G Radio Control (#7255252) with the supplied 4-channel receiver. I am building the Flatbed Semi-Trailer (56306) and using the Motorized Support Legs kit (56505). I am using a Hitec HS-322HD servo for the coupler. Everything functioned perfectly right out of the box with no adjustments needed EXCEPT the coupler servo will not operate. Iโ€™ve checked all the wiring several times and am convinced all the connections are correct. Iโ€™ve plugged the servo into the steering port to prove that it functions (if does). On page 10 of the MFC instruction manual, there are instructions for switching between Horn mode and Support Legs mode. โ€œSlide 4ch (L) trim lever completely to the right. Push the stick completely to the right to conduct the following operations listed below.โ€ I do this, but the right stick continues to be in the horn mode. It will not operate the coupler servo. Anybody have any ideas how to fix this?
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