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Found 24 results

  1. Hi It's definitely time to start a new thread today. Not that the Bearcat SS is finished (it will be soon), but because now I have started some work on the 44Bs and Zerda chassis. I'm very happy as I like to work on car with chassis variants simultaneously... let's recap first what we have. First a Zerda with a broken cage, and some tender loving care needed. It cames with the orignal wheels, the broken elements missing from the roll cage puzzle, a Beetle MRC body shell... There is some work for sure. The rear shocks are rears from a Super Hotshot. I might discover additional details later on... Second, some 44B chassis unused parts. And today, I got some cars joining the crew, including two 44B incomplete chassis. Let's detail the Hirobo 44B. A Hilux - SWB, and a LWB incomplete chassis : The 44B Hilux chassis is missing the top of the radio box, but beside this looks complete. The bodyshell is in pretty bad shape, but some key accessories are present, and will allow to create STLs. The LWB chassis is incomplete, but I don't see too much issue there at this stage.
  2. Hello, to separate the TRF201 transmission conversion and the restoration part of my Hilux Monster Racer I started this new thread regarding my TRF201 transmission conversion for the Nissan King Cab, Hilux Monster Racer and/or (Super) Astute / Madcap*. So the transmission section will not be mixed anymore with the restoration section. Here I can also offer a better and clear support for interested customers and can answer questions regarding the gearbox, parts list, manual or assembly. For pictures from the installed gearbox in a Hilux Monster Racer, please visit my build log/thread: Sgt.Speirs‘ Nissan King Cab - TRF201 Transmission Conversion & Restoration Parts list for this modification: 1x 3D printed gearbox parts from Shapeways (latest rev. 1.5): >> King Cab TRF201 Gear Box v1.5 - Complete << 1x 54471 TA06 Steel Gear Diff. Unit Rear 1x 22031 TD4/TD2 Slipper Clutch Set 1x 53587 Shim 5x0.2mm (1 needed) 1x 13454709 Idler Shaft (alternatively: 54344) 1x 54262 Idler Gear (alternatively: 51416) 1x 19114075 Spacer N15 (N-Parts tree) 1x 19804411 Screw 3x36mm (4 needed) 1x 13450284 Aluminum motor plate (alternatively: 54225 /13454715) 1x 50586 Washer (2 needed) 1x 19805746 Cap Screw 3x8mm (2 needed) 1x 19808013 Cap Screw 3x6mm (2 needed) 1x 19805990 Screw 3x5mm (2 needed) 1x 19004273 Gear Cover 1x 19805957 Screw 3x10mm 1x 19805763 Screw 3x10mm 1x 19805765 Screw 3x8mm 1x 53577 Urethane bushing (red) 1x 53588 Ø10 mm Shim Set (optional parts for shimmimg the gear diff) 1x 42115 Ball bearings 1510 (2 needed) 2x 42113 Ball bearings 1050 (3 needed) 1x 42113 Ball bearings 840 (1 needed) Manual for the assembly: Gearbox Assembly - Manual_Rev_1.3 (see attached file) Gearbox Assembly - Manual_v1.3.pdf External link for non-members: Gearbox Assembly - Manual_v1.3.pdf on File-Upload.net Pictures from the first Shapeways order: The gearbox ready assembled: The first customer's complete gearbox package: And finally the video of the assembly according the manual:
  3. Hello, and welcome to Sgt.Speirs‘ King Cab - TRF201 Transmission Conversion build log for the Nissan King Cab / Hilux Monster Racer. =========================================================== To skip directly to the final pics, parts list and manual: >> CLICK HERE << =========================================================== In the early 90s, two of my friends had a Nissan King Cab (and they still have them). Although I think the Hilux Monster Racer looks better, the King Cab has a special place in my RC memory. Four weeks ago I found a local offer of a King Cab chassis. The price was far under 100€. No wheels/tires, no body, but blue sleeved dampers from the Dyna Storm and the carbon race steering set (53033). Only the body mounts referring, that it was previously a Nissan King Cab. Not related, but still nice...the Dyna Storm Overall, tha parts were in great condition and even the bathtube chassis has nearly no scratches as expected from heavy off-road trips. The rear dampers have some scratches from the spring/suspension, but they will work fine. The general weak point of the King Cab/Monster Racer, the ball differential, has a lot of wear and is hard to move. Unfortunately are spare parts hard to find. Because this car is planned as a runner, I decided to replace the gearbox to a current one (incl. a slipper clutch) with a probably better spare part availability. 1st proposal - The gearbox of the Super Astute (Re-Release): The King Cab shares its gearbox with the (Super) Astute. The gearbox of the re-re Super Astute from 2018 would be a good alternative. But not all internal parts for the gearbox are currently available… 2nd proposal - The gearbox of the Dyna Storm: The Dyna Storm has also a slipper (Multi Disc Clutch system) and would be a proper solution. But there is the same issue with spare part availability than for idea same as for proposal 1. 3nd proposal - The gearbox of the TRF201: The TRF201 is currently no longer available, but the ball diff and the slipper clutch is shared with the new Super Avante. So spare parts will be no issue in the next years. So I decided to go with proposal 3... The TRF211XM uses the same ball diff. Optional there is a oil filled gear diff. Due to less maintainace, I wanted to try the gear diff…a mistake at the end. First I ordered only the gearbox to find out if it will work (enough space, position of the gear box outlets, wheel base,…). It does in my opinion... ...so I started modeling of the main chassis (bath tube), sub chassis (frp plate) and TRF201 gearbox in 3D, to create the brackets for the top and bottom mounting points.
  4. Hey guys I'm new to rc and let alone this server as well, I remembered seeing a youtube video on one of these trucks like 10 years ago and said what the badword and bought one on ebay, it was prebuilt but with no electronics, I had an rc shop install the servos and esc and now I have a running truck, I wanted to ask if there were any advice or things I needed to know. Is there any maintenance that needs to be done such as lubricating gears in transmission or axles? And how do you take the wheels off? I want to upgrade this truck by buying some bigger tires and rims much like a mountaineer or bruiser. I was also going to ask if installing lights is a hard thing to do for a novice. Where do most of you buy accessories for these truck? I know this is a lot to ask but I'm glad to be getting into the hobby. Thanks.
  5. Hello. I could use some advice. I have a High-Lift Hilux with the multifunction unit. The rig is very heavy and I feel it is underpowered and could benefit from some 2S Lipos. So I ordered the most compatible Lipo batteries I could find on Amazon. They fit my Lunchbox with no issue as well as an old Nikko dune buggy. But it’s just slightly too large to fit into the Hilux. 🤦🏻‍♂️ Has anyone had any success modifying the battery compartment without destroying it? Thanks in advance for the advice. Cheers from Canada, Tal
  6. Grastens Builds the Tamiya Bruiser (58519) The Kit Builder’s Build In the midst of the assembly of my Ferrari 312T3, the revival of my original Lancia Rally, and the planning and acquisition of another Tamiya-centric project, lumbered: It has been quite an outburst of RC-related activity lately, which is as sure a sign as any that I am dealing with some serious personal issues; burying myself in projects like this might be the least-destructive way to cope with them. I have never had the luxury of three new kit builds on the go, and the Bruiser will be by far the largest and most involved of them. Those concerns aside, I can point to the Tamiya Bruiser in my possession and say that this is a long-held dream of mine, finally realized! Finding a (Long-Winded) Dream My first Tamiya was a Toyota GT-One on the F103RS. It was a simple chassis that proved to be a good rookie car, if a bit difficult to find the ideal surface for it. I had always been interested in radio-controlled items and cars, so RC cars were a logical culmination. That car felt like a lifelong dream realized; playing video games was much more economically-feasible, and I had neither the money nor the support to treat radio-controlled cars as a real hobby. My childhood aspirations made do with the occasional cheap remote-controlled contraption, to be pitched when it broke after its inevitably-underwhelming performance. I could hardly complain, for I had the essentials covered in life, but I still fantasized about a true hobby-grade radio-controlled machine. Tamiya was even making the cars I saw in my video games – from Gran Turismo to 1:10 scale came the Castrol Celica ST205, the Calsonic Nissan Primera, the Castrol Mugen NSX – and the Toyota GT-One – all by the same company that produced the best static model I had built to that time (another story itself). My involvement in the hobby changed forever when I acquired a Buggy Champ as my second car; with it, I discovered the comparative freedom of off-road running, and nearly all of my acquisitions since have been all-terrain chassis. Along the way, I had been building my collection toward increasing mechanical complexity. I had always been interested in the mechanical aspect of machinery, and around the same time I purchased my Avante Black Special – then the most complicated build I would undertake – Tamiya re-released the Bruiser. It did not matter that I was not alive when the original Bruiser (or Avante, even) was available, for the concept of an all-metal, all-terrain truck with an actual shifting transmission was something that captured my imagination. At the time, I had saved up much of everything I had to acquire that Avante, but despite my good fortune that day, I still ended up wanting a Bruiser. If I were really increasing the mechanical complexity of my collection, the Bruiser seemed like a logical step, in the right direction, especially after the Avante. Instead, time and money (but mostly money) saw me take a different path with my cars, my desires for new challenges manifesting themselves in bodywork as opposed to chassis. I found out that the Avante was not what I envisioned; it had proven expensive to repair and limited in talent. Though Tamiya’s higher-end offerings certainly had my interest whenever they arrived, I probably never really wanted them as each new model slipped away without any further effort from me to acquire one. The Bruiser never totally left my consciousness, though. Eventually, I found that I was running out of spaces to run buggy-type off-road cars, and I was still intrigued by the sophistication of the 3-speed truck, especially as I learned more about automotive engineering. With classic models like the original 4 x 4 Hilux and Blazing Blazer reaching used-1:1-car prices, the Bruiser was the only affordable model until the Mountaineer re-emerged as the Mountain Rider. Even then, they were out of my grasp. It should be noted that the Tamiya Hilux High-Lift was also on the shelf that day at the hobby shop, yet neither that nor the Tundra nor the F-350 seemed to catch my imagination the way the Bruiser did. I passed it over completely. Fulfilling a (Long-Winded) Dream “I probably never really wanted them as each new model slipped away without any further effort from me to acquire one.” It was a trip to my local hobby shop for paints to complete my Ferrari 312T3 build when I finally decided I wanted a Bruiser, once and for all. It was likely triggered by the astonishing stock of Tamiya re-release models in the store: there – in the year 2019 – were new-in-box examples of the Novafox, Bigwig, Blackfoot, Egress(!), Monster Beetle, and a Frog, perched high on a shelf behind the sales counter. Clearly, the employees there had an appreciation for classic Tamiyas, which was encouraging. Pure curiosity prompted me to ask about their prices. I was astonished to realize that this particular shop had nearly closed the gap to online retailers, and every model there was competitively priced – I could have had an Egress for under $500 CAD after taxes! But then I asked the shop owner: “Do you still have the Bruiser in stock?” I saw one long ago, in another visit, and asked in the off-chance that maybe it was still kicking around. I never saw too many visitors in the shop, and the ones that were there either bought Redcats, Gundam models, or paints. “No,” he started, as my reasonable being sighed in relief, “but we can order one. You fill out a form, and we can have it in 48 hours.” My mind started racing, leaving my reasonable being in the dust. There’s no way I could… No way I should… If I have to ask… “How much would it be?” His reply shocked me. They had closed the gap – no, they had opened one up of their own! Even more shocking was learning that the upcoming re-re-release of the Mountaineer/Mountain Rider would be more expensive through the shop’s distributor, by $100 CAD, and not on pre-order. I had believed the Bruiser to be more complex somehow than its sibling, but this was completely secondary to the fact that a metal Tamiya 3-speed was now within reach! I would need to stretch, but within reach! “… I’ll think about it,” I said weakly, and continued searching for paints. I thought about it, all right, and a week or so was all I needed to clarify more than six years of dreaming and a lifetime passion for mechanical objects that begged me to make it happen. It felt like a lifetime had led me to that store the following week, where I sought out the shop owner, looked him in the eye, and said: “I want to order a Bruiser. Give me the form, please.” I was nervous. Last time I was there, I was talking myself out of it by telling the shop owner about my Ferrari 312T3, and laughing that I needed to finish that before thinking about any new projects. I knew I would need to work hard to get that money back, particularly as unlike the 312T3, the Bruiser had been unplanned just a month ago. Yet it felt like I had been preparing for it for much of my life, and all my extracurricular interests had readied me for this moment. Even stranger was that the Hilux High-Lift that I was previously totally uninterested in was still there. It was going for even less than the Egress, and for that kind of money I could have it finished with full electronics – but no, I wanted a Bruiser! As if to firmly put my cards on the table: “I’ll pay for it in full.” What am I doing?! The shop owner started to smile. That definitely lifted his spirits, too! The trip home was an odd mix of elation and fear: I needed a third project like I needed to get hit by a truck, let alone a big, expensive truck that could be worth more than everything I was working on to that point. In my heart, though, I knew I made the right decision, and celebrated my ability to enjoy my hobby in a way I have never done previously. The rest is a short story: having ordered it on a Friday, it arrived on the Monday, and by Tuesday – stopping to retrieve it from the shop during my regular errands – I had it in my hands. First Impressions Well, I had it in my arms, anyway: this box was massive! I had no idea just how large it was until I brought it home, and realized it was almost the width of the doorways in the house! When viewing box art for a kit online, it is easy to forget that the image is nearly the size of the box itself (though not true for some new releases with the “post-box-style” box front). In the case of the Bruiser, that means a large image indeed, and fine details really jump out at the viewer when looking at a box like this in person – this was the impression I was getting. One side of the box: Picture quality at this point was not great, mostly because I did not have a lot of time to take them before I had to find a place for it and continue on with my day. I have yet to even open the box! However, I can at least see what the chassis might look like when assembled: And in detail: The gearbox, which is likely the most compelling feature of this truck, gets another detail on the side, in addition to the inlaid image on the front: And then I had to set it aside. I can only wait so long, though! Planning the Build If you managed to read my lengthy story about how I got to wanting and finding a Bruiser, you would understand why I want to savour this build. I really wish I could go for the speed record, but I anticipate I will be putting in assemblies in a piecemeal fashion. Unlike previous projects, I do have all my supplies purchased at this preliminary stage, from electronics to paint to accessories. Hence, if deliveries are smooth, I should be able to make good time while still enjoying this build. Those electronics will consist of a Futaba 4YWD Attack 2.4 GHz radio and two 6-kg generic waterproof metal gear servos – which will be replaced by a Traxxas 2056 and a Futaba S3003 in the odd event that I fit servos in the build before the intended units arrive, or if their performance is unsatisfactory. I will look to fit one of my Tamiya TBLE-02S units but will soon have the luxury of an Axial AE-5L ESC with LED output. That will allow me to fit at least headlights and taillights immediately, though I had intended it for another build… That being said, I did read on this forum somewhere that one should not skimp on electronics for a Bruiser, and I am inclined to agree! That Axial ESC might make its way into the truck yet. I have yet to see a Tamiya 3-speed sporting a battery under 4 000 mAh capacity, and presently have no working batteries of that specification (maximum 3 000 mAh, and well-used), so it looks like there is in fact one more thing I need. I could get a proper-capacity battery while ordering another Axial ESC, I suppose! As was the case with my Lancia 037 4WD-H, I intend to find a moderate stand between scale realism and the model’s radio-controlled nature. While I am interested in adding things like door panels and a driver figure to the interior, a large part of the Bruiser’s appeal to me is its realism in its drivetrain, so I will be content to run it with a few concessions to scale presence as opposed to all-out authenticity. Besides, the latter would require more LEDs and the MFC-02… My Lancia 037 4WD-H has also taught me that too much complexity is possible in a model, so the emphasis will be on producing a running vehicle, though one with some attention paid to aesthetics. It is still not enough to convince me that I should use Stealth body mounts (it’s an RC car, and RC cars use body posts and clips – I can live with that), but enough for me to at least attempt to produce a neat paint job – the static modeller in me is still alive somewhere! Since I cannot afford a used vehicle, and therefore by association a classic Hilux 4 x 4, I have elected to pay tribute to it with a Czech-made custom step-side rear bed. Doing so means I will be unable to use the bed topper that is standard in the Bruiser kit, and I will need to do some drilling and cutting for this custom bed to fit the chassis. Roll bar options for the 122 mm width of the rear bed seem to be limited – thankfully, I have an assortment of styrene tubes and rods on the way, which could enable me to build one from scratch. As before, I will be adding a driver figure and hopefully some simple styrene cuts serving as door panels. I am seriously entertaining adding a passenger – I was previously intrigued by the possibility of reworking a resin figure kit into a seated passenger, but the expense and detail are too high for the purpose I have in mind. As such, any passenger will almost certainly be a reworked 4 x 4 driver figure – though the extent of the “rework” remains to be seen… The chassis will be stock – having a Bruiser is enough of a novelty for me to be happy with its stock performance for a little while. If I feel the need to upgrade, chances are I would find a higher-turn brushed motor for it first, and even then, that might suffice. Paint is at this point going to be mainly TS-43 Racing Green. If I elect for graphic accents, I will add stripes in TS-26 Pure White and TS-8 Italian Red, as an homage to my previous Avante Black Special and Astute hybrid – I had forgotten how popular those designs were when they made their debuts and feel that this combination could work on a truck like this. Even if it does not, it works for me! The Last Word – for Now Going through literature, accounts, and reviews of the Bruiser, as well as the depth and breadth of custom projects involving the model, has made me realize that I know precious little about trucks and their culture. Knowledge at this point might be dangerous, since it could compel me to spend even more money on accessories (how about that K5 Blazer shell from RC4WD?!), but anything I can learn about pickup trucks, show trucks, mud/bog racing trucks, and any combination thereof will be interesting to me. It feels a world removed from my regular research on rally racers, sports prototypes, and other genres, and it gives me something else to look forward to as I start this exciting RC adventure. “Yes, [I’m] really in Hog Heaven [now that I] own a Bruiser!” – Tamiya promotional spot, c. 1985
  7. HG model, the same company that made the Bruiser knockoff now has knocked off the High-Lift. It has the 3-speed and locking diffs. Here is a link if you are interested in looking at this atrocity https://www.banggood.com/HG-P417-1-or-10-2_4G-4WD-RC-Car-EP-Pickup-Vehicles-Rock-Crawler-Truck-without-Battery-Charger-Model-p-1660259.html?p=6S2910081756201209IA&custlinkid=856948&ID=530026&cur_warehouse=CN
  8. Hello people of Tamiyaclub! A while ago I began to gather parts for a Tamiya Hilux and made an account on here to get help and share the build. Unfortunately, there seemed to to be some kind of server bug at the time, and I was unable to log in to my forum account. It probably resolved itself ages ago, but I ended up forgetting about it. Anyway, I am now here and I thought I should share my build. This is how the car looked after the first 3-or-so batches of parts, the first time it was assembled: Chassis: This is how it looks now: I have had it running, but solely to test the mechanicals. I had to replace the counter gear with the only one available; a brass one. It has no chamfer on the end like the stocker so it does struggle to shift into third while moving, something I need to fix so it doesn't damage the tubular rack that slides over the counter gear. Here's some of the body parts after a little sanding before I repaint them (going with box art red, so don't need to strip it all off. Or do I?) As you can see, I did end up buying a new cab with a grille as I couldn't find a grille anywhere. Naturally, as soon as I did so a grille became available . But hey, now I've got another cab. There's a few scuffs and scratches that need filling, and both cab and grille were damaged when I got them, one of the fender lugs and upper mounting post were broken on the grille, and the corresponding mounting post on the shell was also broken. A dab of superglue later and they were good as new: Should really have got some picture prior to gluing them, but the thought slipped my mind. A common problem that I need to rectify with the addition of a little styrene. One of the rings around the holes on the back of the cab back has broken off, and needs replacing too. Monsieur Tamiya has a light limb related ailment. Nothing a little plastic cement can't fix. Reproduction decals I got on Fleabay. Quality isn't great, but they'll do once placed. I currently have a new radio box and lid on their way to me, which shall allow me to properly mount the body. The old one along with the blue cab will probably be sold off in a job lot of leftover parts once I'm done. I don't think you can see in any of the pictures, but the window glass I bought has a crack in it. Not sure if I should replace it or try and fix it with glue lots of scratch remover and plastic polish. A list of the parts I'm currently in need of: -Rear bumper -Front radio box mounting bracket (Why does no-one ever seem to sell these?) -Third servo saver horn post thing that goes through the radio box -Motor cover -Switch cover -Roof lights -Another headline bucket and lens, and another indicator lens and bucket. The grille I bought had one of each. -A new hub - one of mine is stripped out, meaning the front left wheel is always in freewheel mode. -Bed rails (Trying to haggle myself some on eBay right now) -Transistorized speed controller -Rear-view mirror -Period electronics. Might not manage this one, vintage 3 channel radios are hard to find nowadays. And now we have question time! With regards to painting, what should I do? just paint over the existing stuff after it's been sanded a little? Strip it all off or go from there? Use primer? I have almost zero experience of painting hard bodies. I do have an old Blackfoot shell to practice on though. Also, what paint should I use for box art? The manual says X-7 Red, but that's a brush paint and I'd much rather have the superior finish from one of the rattle cans. The closest I have found is TS-8 Italian Red, is that the same colour or do I need to use non-Tamiya paints to get the right colour? One more thing; what should I use for filling in the deeper scratches? Tamiya do various putties and fillers, but I'm not sure what I ought to use. This build is going to be a little slow, as being only 16 and in full time education with little room for a job, I have a very low income. All of which is getting spent on this, naturally. Thanks for looking.
  9. Good afternoon I purchased this Aqroshot after feeling inspired by a recent post on the Monster Racer/Nissan King Cab. Seeing as I love to tinker with Tamiya's and in particular raiding the Tamiya parts bin and making Frakenstein creations this caught my eye in an attempt to recreate a modern twist on the Monster racer. What drew my attention was many of the similarities to the Monster Racer, in particular; The relatively enclosed chassis, the motor hanging out behind the wheels, similar wheelbase (approx 10mm longer) and features that I particularly like, such as direct steering and a symmetrical layout. I have no idea how this will turn out or even if the plan will work. The WT01 has always been a favourite basher of mine, I'd like to recreate the robustness of the WT01 with something a little more precise and well balanced. So to the build...Box art... Layout... Features... Some suggested Hop Ups... (note that this kit already comes with the Torque tuned motor and CVA's) I have bearings and the ball diff to go in also. Remainder pics of build to follow pending approval...
  10. Having a huge clear out,buy with confidence,feel free to PM me for any info. More Tamiya stuff listed till i have sold what i`m getting rid of. Located in South Leeds,West Yorkshire,local pickup ok. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/anchordriver/m.html?item=182155358527&hash=item2a694e313f%3Ag%3AauQAAOSw3R1XTta5&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562 Thanks for looking. T
  11. Wanted - Various tamiya racing monster wheels. Most interested in the following: Bush Devil Rear (pink 50429) Hilux Front & Rear (red X10444... I think) King Cab Rear (white 50372) I'm restoring a couple of these trucks atm and finding the wheels (esp the rears) is like finding hens teeth. If you have any in decent condition - please let me know! Also interested in new bodies and decals! Rob
  12. Hi, I have this brad new Hilux 58028 3-speed transmission for sale. Make me an offer if you are interested. https://1drv.ms/f/s!Ank3lVSjNEmUgaxYYgFuV-6pcJSa2w You can reach me on martinjordt@hotmail.com (I'm in Denmark) Cheers Martin
  13. About to embark upon Hilux restoration and wondered if anyone that has done this before can provide details of recommended sources for parts. Here is the current list I have, and some sources I've been able to track down: Front free-wheeling/lockable wheel hubs Universal joints Stainless steel hardware Gearbox mount grommets Front/rear bumpers - http://www.radshaperc.com/product/tamiya-hi-lux--bull-bar-with-loop Ball races 4 x 22mm o x 8mm i x 7mm w (2RS bearings) 13 x 11mm o x 5mm i x 3.9mm w 11 x 10F-8mm o x 5mm i x 4mm w (MF85ZZ) Shims 6.5-6mm o x 5mm i x 0.5mm w 32P 10T Pinion - http://mardave.co.uk/pinions/32dp-pinions/example-product.html Servo control arms - victor101car Given that I no longer have the MSC, plan on using ESC with LIPO's and would welcome any recommendations. From previous posts, I can see the following suggested: TEU- 302 ESC Modelsport RV-12 Sniper Assault Also need motor, so again any recommendations welcome. Thanks in anticipation!
  14. Hi all, I've had this 3-speed transmission lying around for many years now. My best guess is that it's for the 50028 Hilux, but I'm not 100% sure. Hoping you experts can help me out I think I originally bought it for my Bruiser project, and later found out that it didn't exactly fit with a 750 motor So the question remains - is this the transmission for a Hilux, and what would you guys think it would sell for? Regards Martin
  15. Thanks for approving mods! Hello everyone, Having been following the listings of vintage Hilux 4x4 3 speeds and parts on ebay for about 2 years, after really getting to appreciate these metal three speeds following the build up of my Brusier Rere, I finally decided to venture into the vintage game and purchase a 35 year old RC. It's incredible how well designed and special these 3 speeds feel particularly for the era in which they were built, which happens to be my favourite decade anyway...the Magnificent 80's!! After seeing a spate of these get snapped up on ebay and prices seemingly creeping north, I finally decided to buy this on ebay last week, very soon after it was listed. It was listed on Italian ebay and I stumbled on it by chance in the stupid early hours of the morning as my search hadn't picked it up when it was listed and I'd been scouring ebay for days before. Needless to say it was a very tidy looking example. A few bits were immediately apparent. The transistor internals looked to be missing as did the third servo gubbins (I was planning to run an esc in the transistor box anyway), some link rods for the other 2 servos, the plate that runs between the tranny shift rod and the stabilising rod above it missing, motor wires cut, perished gearbox plugs and a small dink in the front bumper lower bar. None of this put me off it much neither did the lack of radio equipment or servos as I had my own plan in mind for that. The description said very little, basically that it was near to perfect condition, clear coated, no electrics and what you see is what you get. I've been permanently excited about receiving this over the last few days with a touch of apprehension about whether it would actually be as good as the pics, whether it would arrive undamaged and in fact whether it would arrive at all!! To keep my mind occupied, I cracked out some vintage wheels which I bought a long time ago (to experiment with something on the Bruiser) and decided to have a go at painting the Good Year logo's on. I did one wheel and the wife the other. Mine was on the left, hers looks better in the pic, mine looks a bit finer in the flesh Another update soon! Cheers
  16. I have been building a Tamiya Bruiser Hilux over the last 6 months which I bought just before Xmas last year. I didn't start the build until after xmas during the holiday period and managed to complete the chassis for the most part in those couple of weeks. I have documented the build in depth as I went (for another forum) since I couldn't access this one at the time but it seems a shame not to mirror it on here where it will no doubt be appreciated more. It is not yet complete so I will post up the steps which take me to where I am now. It has been an awesome build and hopefully it'll give those considering one a taste of what it is like to build one. I sat on the fence for a long time with this because it is a substantial outlay but what an epic build and model it is. My apologies in advance since this was written at the time and so it might seem a little strange in the use of the past tense but I'm carrying much of the diary over as I wrote it then, to capture the spirit/mindset at the time of build. So here's where it started..... The box art; Box contents; Chassis and axles; all set out ready for start The kit comes with these tools; Parts bag A. Comes with threadlock paste and grease etc. Thankfully, unlike other Tamiya kits where you are constantly reaching for other part bags each containing the necesary parts for particular steps, it appears that the bruiser kit is in proper part bag steps, so steps 1-9 appear to pertain purely to parts bag A which should keep things somewhat tidier. more to follow...
  17. I joined the vintage 3 speeder gang this morning! After watching these for many months, it seems there is no letting up in interest making snapping up a bargain seem increasingly more difficult. By pure chance, despite searching for these every evening I came across an Italian listing this morning that my usual search had neglected to pick up. It was exactly what I've been after, a tidy box art vintage Hilux. The buy it now or make offer was a fair bit more than I wanted to pay but after putting my rusty italian to good use and a bit of back and forwards early this morning we came to an agreement and in a moment of madness I decided it was my time to bite the bullet. In fairness I probably paid £100-150 more than I would have been happy with but with the rarity of finding just what I'm after, such is the price of admission I guess and he who hesitates is lost. Here are some pics, it will hopefully be making its journey from Italy tomorrow morning. I'm really excited about this, it is my first and will probably be my only foray into the truly vintage side of the hobby. Having enjoyed the whole build process with a rere Bruiser, which really made me marvel and appreciate these three speeders, I'm hoping it'll be that much more special owning a 35 year old real deal. I love the more scaler looks of the original Hilux and it'll compliment the Bruiser and Mountain rider very nicely. A few bits I've noticed, seems to be some servo hardware missing and maybe the spring on the gear shifter, the gearbox rubbers look shot for some reason, the rubber tabs are missing from the latches on the electronics box, there are no electrics (transistor box looks empty) but that's cool because I wanted to fit a modern esc in the original casing anyway so this allows me to do that without guilt. The shell looks lovely and has been clear coated, I hope it's as good as it looks though I wouldn't have minded doing a refurb on one. There is some tyre lettering needed and I'll need to source a manual so I can strip and rebuild the Gbox. It looks a nice one but of course I'm a little aprehensive now until it physically turns up!! The countdown begins...
  18. Hi! Found this in Tamiya Hilux manual. "You can illuminate headlights with optional miniature light bulp" is it Tamiya? I can't find any info at all about these… Would like to know! Picture from Hilux RA1028. ​Any help would be appreciated! Cheers Badboy
  19. Just found these old NZ ads for Toyota Hilux 4X4, thought you guys might get a kick out of them:
  20. Hi everyone, neubie here. Sorry for not making a post introducing me and my truck before even asking for your help, but before i could finish to build my truck i had some issues that i can find solution anywhere, and i was wondering if you guys could help me solve it. My main problem is that whenever i trhottle foward or reverse a beep starts to sound, and if I dare to shift gears it all starts failing, steering and shifting go crazy, hazard lights start flashing and a beeping start and the only way of stoping this is turning off the truck/mfc and transmitter (Futaba Attack 4ywd). I've tried everything, changing cables plugins, trying to run the truck in rc mode, but every time i shift it all go crazy. I've tried teaching the mfc as the manual suggest, but when i get to stage C, teaching shifting, the motor starts running and thats the sign the teaching fail. Sorry for my bad english, i hope you can help me, i'm getting really frustrated here. Thanks in advance. Regards
  21. This Friday I received a tamiya high lift hilux, I am almost done building it, but I have some questions on it. First is there any way of lowering the height to a more scale look? Also are there any recommended upgrades for it? Keep in mind I will not be using the transmission in the kit, because I want to add a scale interior and the transmission height wouldn't allow me to do so.
  22. My Hilux is done. It's mostly stock, except for the 12mm Hex Conversion from RC4WD, the wheels and tyres, stickers, which I made myself, and the front bumper, for which I used a high lift jack on the stock bumper mounts, which are dyed black. Also added lights and a TLU-01 and TLU-02. Took the TLU-02 back out because the indicators started annoying me really badly. I can't seem to copy/paste into this editor, so rather than re-type a wall of text and images, you can read more about the build at https://www.wittenburg.co.uk/entry.aspx?id=51d49de6-e0f3-4054-acf6-325f668040b5 The thing I'm hoping to still do to it are a custom back bumper - something inoffensive but cool, and to either widen the front track, or narrow the rear. While I haven't found much useful information online, it seems widening the front is more realistic, because the rear is constrained by the chassis width. Has anyone done this to a 2012 Bruiser or the 2014 Mountain Rider?
  23. Tips for improving the look of hi-lift Hi All After months of dithering (and being financially challenged!) i am about to buy a Tamiya Toyota Hilux because I can't afford a Bruiser The problem i have is that there are a couple of things I really don't like about the model and wondered if anyone can tell me what I can do if anything to solve it. For the record I will be mainly building as a scale shelf queen but may run it occasionally. 1. Don't like the tinted windows, can I buy clear window set of will I have to make something out of clear lexan? If the the latter will it be difficult as I assume the stock ones will be curved (at least the windscreen Will be wont it?) 2. Wheels look too small on the hi-lift, what's a good wheel tyre combo that will look scale but fill the arches a bit more? 3. Based on the fact that I'm not building for speed in fact it will mainly be a scale shelf queen, will a low kv ez-run system be ok? 4. Finally is the mfu worth buying of just a bit of a gimmick Thanks in advance for any advice
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