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I painted this Nissan Silvia body using Tamiya Translucent paint. There was interest in my previous translucent paint job, so I decided to take pictures of each step to show how to do it. I used these colors: For each "coat" of paint, I hold the can about 6 - 8 inches away from the body and spray in side-to-side or up-to-down strokes. I want the paint to dust onto the body in a mist. I don't want to paint in stripes. I aim for complete coverage by the 3rd application of paint, or when the can runs out. The time between each coat depends on when the paint flashes off. When you first apply the paint, you can see that it is very glossy and wet. If you watch the paint, you'll see it flash off and lose it's gloss. It'll still be wet, but will have a matte look to it. Soon after that, I apply the next coat. The temperature that you're painting in will determine how long this takes. On a cool day of 60F, this could take up to 5mins, but on a hot day this will be a lot faster. Just make sure the paint looks dry before applying the next light coat. Here's the body after the first coat of Translucent. Held up to the light, it's very see-through. Here it is after the 2nd coat of Translucent: A little more orange, but still very see-through. The 3rd coat of Translucent: At this point, there wasn't much left in the can, so I was holding the body up to the light and looking for any area's that looked uneven. In particular the lines and crevices in the bumpers or around the windows. Here's how it looks now: Here's how it looks from the outside when held up to the light. If I stopped here, this is how it would look. If I backed this with black, I would just get a dark orange color that wouldn't be that appealing. The next step is where the magic happens. Here's the first dusting of Bright Silver: You can already see the color starting to change on the outside. It looks like there's some yellow in the orange. Here's the next coat of Bright Silver. I had complete coverage by this step and stopped here with the Bright Silver. When held up to the light, you can see that it is still semitransparent. If you look at the shadow from my hand, you see the silver. First coat of Black. Held up to the light: Next coat of black. I put the black on a bit heavier here. Held up to the light, you can no longer see through the body. I gave it a couple hours to dry, and then removed the masks and overspray film. This is the body in direct sunlight. You can see the metal flake from the Bright Silver showing through, giving depth to the paint. Indoor lighting showing the metal flake.
Ok TC, I finally have my first 4wd tamiya buggy on the way, a Boomerang. Thanks Dave959!! Very excited, as the 4wd buggies (hotshot, supershot, and boomerang) I wanted as a kid, but never had one. So, with my tendency towards heavy throttle, hard use and breakage, I would like some advise from those who've had experience with these cars. So, what are the weak points, what will I break, what upgrades have you guys found are the best? How are your runner's suspensions set up? Yes I do want to know everything. Shock oil weight, piston selection, springs, preload. Wheel/Tire choices and favorites. And lastly, for the boomerang, which high wear and hop up parts are interchangeable between different cars? You know I don't go easy with my cars, and shelf queens are just part bins. So this bad boy is gonna get run. Thanks for all the help and info guys. Cheers, Burleson
Can anyone tell me if its possiable to fit a heng long high intensity flash unit while still retaining the BB funtion ? The obvoius problem is the wiring - it will have to go on the outside of the barrel . How possiable would it be to add a sleeve over the existing barrel to hide the wires maybe ? Any thoughts as to how i could do this or is it a non starter ?