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Found 61 results

  1. So as ever I usually have around 8 or 9 projects on the go. As the David Jun TNX and the Kyosho Turbo Burns near completion I have been wondering which kits to do next. I picked this up from Japan recently and thought it would be good to do next. The Pajero along with the Citroen ZX is one of the rarer nitro cars from this family. Most people would of heard about the RS200 and the Peugeot 405. I have an RS200 to restore and I have already done the 405. The Citroen ZX body I have just needs a chassis. So the Pajero has a badly cracked body, to bad for me to want to use it so I have used some body tape to hold it together and it will get sold off. The Pajero does look good though The chassis is pretty much complete but needs some love Having looked it over there are a few plastic parts missing and I have already ordered them, mainly some mounts, the aerial holder etc. The parts aren't too rusty and I am hoping I can recover the tyres and wheels with some care. A few plastic parts are bent (body mounts) but they should straighten up. Most parts from these chassis are still available in the Kyosho FD- range. I already have a new body so that will be painted for this restoration by @jonboy1 The engine on this is the Kyosho GS-11R and it is seized solid. Its also missing the carb but that was easy enough to find. The rest of the engine restoration will be documented. Next steps will be to strip the car down, time to get dirty again!
  2. Well it has reached the point where I think I am going to be parting with most of my collection. I am based in the US and would prefer to ship to the lower 48 states but if there is something you are willing to pay to ship elsewhere maybe we can work things out. I just dont have the time and space to be hoarding all these cars anymore, and you guys get first pick I take paypal and please message me here on tamiya club feel free to ask for more pictures or info. All prices are with USPS flat rate shipping included. JG MFG yokomo YZ-870 big front bumper, fits what the label says, Free to a good home just pay for shipping AE RC10 team car build. polished kick plate. 1990 roar nats stickers on car and the purple body. $220 Kyosho F1 onroad car parts: tires/foams in great shape some small cracks , top plate and rear pod. Free to a tc member in need, please just pay for shipping. DB01R RTR minus TX (Can remove spectrum RX if not needed). Needs a CVD joint rebuild kit. Update: found a spring cup to use but its not a original. Also included is full set of front arms front/back shock tower, reinforced belts, hard drive cups. Motor and speedo is a generic 380 rotor in 540 can but it runs really well. $180 AE SC10 4x4 RTR (minus TX and I can remove the spectrum receiver if not needed) Missing one of the barrels that fits inside the CVD joint. Body has wrap applied. Hitec 645MG servo, castle 4 pole sidewinder system. I will include a clear SC10 body as well. This car has only been raced a couple of times. $200 HPI Nitro Rs4 MT, for parts, close to being a roller. I bought this for parts and it has a lot of purple hop ups. Team associated GT2 body. Parts for these are getting hard to find now that is the reason why i cant build the rest to completion $120 HPI Rs4 mt roller: Has a rear belt that is in poor shape. comes with two bug shells and one engine, no drivers cover or gear cover. Front MIP CVD's $120 AE RC10DS roller: Mustang body was trimmed poorly. The previous owner swapped out the hubs/knuckles over to traxxas ones so that standard touring car tires fit. Chassis is in great condition, missing battery cup. $120 Radioshack red arrow parts car free to a good home just pay the shipping. no remote or circuit board in the car
  3. Hi all, My next documented restoration thread takes me away from Tamiya. As you all probably know I mainly collect Tamiya nitro however now and again I tend to drift towards other makes. In this instance Kyosho. The Turbo Burns came to me from Ebay UK. I paid £46 for it delivered in this condition: Obviously missing a body, it has the wrong wing (its not an Inferno either) and covered in muck. First thing I have done with it is to jetwash the whole thing. Now that seems harsh but in actual fact it will be fully stripped, the RC gear will be scrapped anyway and the motor will be fully serviced. Other than that there is nothing that will get damaged. So jet wash done I am left with this to look over: She is complete all bar the body, wing and air filter pretty much. Bodies are available as repro items along with the wing and decal set and the filter I think I already have. Wheels and tyres will be a challenge but we will see what happens. The car is fitted with a nice period Mondial motor and I will try and restore that. It isn't seized so that's a good start. Some of the metal components are showing signs of rust and that awful jubilee clip exhaust tube will be going. It has some nice aftermarket shocks fitted, hopefully these will clean up well. The rear arm threaded bars I already have new. Chassis plate has a few marks but confident these should sand/polish out. I may replace it if I find a new one because I'm not a fan of extra drilled holes and this has a couple. All in all though a good starting basis. More to follow soon when I strip her down.
  4. Help needed just got these any ideas what they are thanks for ure help
  5. So I always wanted a Optima Mid actually since back in the days. Even dough I can remember that I never understood the others how they could consider anything else than Tamiya. But this car is such an awsome buggy, it got the right look and some very nice decals. That said, my Optima Mid is no looker, but I hope I can turn it into an nice survivor car. I have disassembled the car, so that i can wash all the parts. I have already bought a new body (TBG) and decals (MCI Racing). I guess I could just have painted and applied decals to a new body and added some new tires, and this one would have looked stunning on the shelf, but I can’t just get myself to take such an short cut.
  6. Hello All, First time posting, so apologies if I err in some way. My question is about calculating the final drive ratio on a 2016 Kyosho Optima. They list the stock FDR as 9.24:1. The spur gear is 61t; pinion is 25t. They also sell an optional spur gear for brushless setups that is 51t, and they then recommend using either 30, 31, 32t pinion gear, which puts the final drive ratio at 6.24:1 (if using the 31t pinion). Now that just seems like a massive drop in the gear ratio, and wonder if anybody has ever done anything similar on this or other similar vehicles. Another thing that had me scratching my head is- how is their FDR calculated? I spent a badword of a lot of time on line reading different methods of calculating. I have tried running the numbers with the internal belt-drive pulley, diff gear, final pinion (internal), counter gear, and of course the outboard spur and pinion. No matter what I do, I can not replicate their claimed ratio specs. If anybody could kindly offer some advice, I’d be grateful. Many thanks, Ryan
  7. I got this around 1989 when I was in Jr. High. It was my first hobby grade R/C kit after my first R/C car that was a black Nikko Typhoon from Service Merchandise. I ordered it from Tower Hobbies along with the Kyosho Pulsar Pro 2000 transmitter/receiver/servo package. Drove it for a few years, then left the hobby for around 20 years. I happened to dig it out of my parents' shed so that I could see if I could salvage this and a Kyosho Tracker that I had sitting in there for my son. Straight out of storage. The MSC that you see on there is a newer replacement from the Kyosho that I got later on. The one that came with the car is an even older model with all the contact points exposed... which I still have. As you can see... the stock leMans 05 motor is still in there. Unfortunately, I painted the front wheels green, and the rear wheels I traded for a set of 3 different ones back when I was younger. The rear wing is something I added on later from something else. Anyway, took it out and started cleaning it with a disposable toothbrush. I ordered a body from ebay since my original one apparently went missing, and it had a terrible paint job anyway from what I remember. My son likes the color blue, so I decided to paint it a metallic blue. Finally got the car up and running using a Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 Brushed ESC, Airtronics 371W receiver paired with Sanwa MK-V Transmitter. The original shocks/dampers were in bad shape. 2 of them had cracks in the tubes which was fairly common for this car. I took them off and replaced them with Kyosho FD-37 FD-38 ultima oil filled dampers. I also painted the wheels I had back to white. Ordered some repro decals made by ******* Racing. Not exactly the same as the original kit, and definitely not the same quality... but for this project, it'll do. I think it looks great now! I have an old brushed twister scorpion motor that I might stick in this, and I'm considering upgrading the kyosho servo to maybe a savox servo or something stronger. I'm also looking into seeing if there is a way to improve the tie-rod/turnbuckle system that it's currently using to help it turn better.
  8. As in, I hope it won't take long, rather than I hope the car will be fast. I think it is fast, but we'll come to that later. So, anyone who haunts this non-Tamiya section of TC may have seen my confusion over the steering system on a second-hand Kyosho Raider that I recently bought. The car looked great, had some of the electronics included and on a cursory check seemed to be in pretty good condition throughout. However, the steering was all over the shop, with the front wheels displaying an alarming degree of toe-out. Some debate ensued as to why this was, but it was narrowed down to the ball joint on the hubs being inserted into the 'inner' of the two available holes. This not only had a disastrous effect on the car's stance while stationary, but would have also had a similar effect on its steering ability while in motion, as shown by this image of it on full lock. So what's the to-do? Well, first of all, have a quick nose around the chassis to see what we can find.
  9. Hello. I’m requesting help with obtaining a scanned copy of the instruction manual for Kyosho kit # 4232, .049 Espo Larrousse F1 racer. I would like the entire manual but what I really need is the exploded parts diagram, the itemized parts listing (with individual part numbers), and the option/hop-up parts listing. The manual pages for the similar .049 Ferrari F189 F1 car would also work if one is available. Even clear cell-phone pics of the requested pages would be much appreciated. Please help if you can…thank you!!
  10. If you have a Kyosho Rocky and the original shocks, you already know how difficult they are to restore. One of the biggest reasons for this is because the shock shaft is an integral part of the piston design. The piston itself is unlike any other shock design by Kyosho: Unique shock shaft: Unique piston (notice that it is very thin and hollowed out with notches on either side): Tiny little spring to allow the piston to slide on the shaft to alter the shock vs rebound damping rate depending on impact force (non-adjustable unless you replaced the spring itself):
  11. I have been looking for awhile for a Ball Diff Plate for my Kyosho Axis Ex. The inner diameter of the plate is 1.5 cm and outer diameter of 2.5 cm. I looked at other manufactures and can seem to find a match. Does anyone know of a replacement Ball Dill Plate that is still availabl?. Thanks in advance.
  12. unhooked esc like an idiot , and can not re- install , followed manual nothing , steering works but can not get it to move , says turn off ABS transmitter has no abs dial or button did i screw something up or just missing something ... ???
  13. I am looking for a Kyosho Renault Laguna body, not worried about decals. Either a body or a complete car, as long as the body is un painted. As I have finally managed to get hold of a set of Carson Nescafe Blend 37 decals and a few pots of PC5 brush on black and would like to do a 1998 BTCC replica to go with my 1997 version. Many thanks, James.
  14. Looking for some FWD Maxxum parts to complete a(nother) project: MA-1 Bumper Set MA-2 Front Susp Arms MA-3 Rear Susp Arms MA-5 Servo Saver MA-13 Linkage Set MA-14 Body MA-17 Wheels W-5061 UJs W-5003/4 Adjustable Shock Drop me a PM if you have any of these, ideally new or as-new but will consider decent used if I have to.
  15. Well, this certainly won't be as comprehensive as the bruiser thread was, as the build itself took me about 6hrs all up - LOL. But as we all know - ♫ Everyone loves a build thread! ♫ So here is my short and sweet thread, some questions will be asked, but it's more for the punters out there who Google this and need some pics!
  16. Came across this vintage Kyosho RC promo video. pretty cool https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KNjxw5wO7y4 Another one some older guy running his 35 year old Kyosho Lancia Stratos Integra has one these in his showroom if I remembered correctly. http://youtube.com/watch?v=-VxvpLrjuME
  17. Sold! This one can be closed. I am selling my Kyosho Progress project. I started it several months ago building up a progress from an incomplete Progress and an incomplete Gallop chassis but came to the conclusion that it is not really my cup of tea so i am selling it again to fund a new project. It comes with several spares including the rear shocks that still need to be revised and an original new Progress decal sheet. This is the status of the chassis. It has been built up from scratch. Only needs the dampers revised and mounted, the top chain guide is missing and a new chain is needed as the current one is too short. Complete spare gearbox is included and several remaining gallop parts, including front/rear wheels. Also comes with the original Gallop Mk II manual and It has all the parts converted to convert it back into a gallop Mk II if desired. I am looking for 100 Euro (excluding shipping costs) but will consider any good offer. I ship worldwide and accept paypal.
  18. Hi live just bought a used model and it had 2 old batteries in the box made by kyosho did they make batteries in the 80s.
  19. RNSpeed

    Kyosho Legend?

    I was reading the October 1989 RCCA Magazine and on their section Inside Scoop they mention an upcoming 4WD Kyosho called the Legend. Ive never heard of this car. Anyone have more info on this?
  20. Hi all, I have dusted down my 30 year old raider and it works! Or did! Bought new battery and it was running great. Turned off but didn't disconnect and somehow the old MSC got nudged on . when I smelt smoke it turned all off and recharged battery. It now works only on full speed, I guess I have blown the resistor. As I can't get a spare u was going to buy the 1060? ESC and use that. My question is this... Is it relatively easy to swap the old style MSC out and replace with a new one. Can anyone explain what I need to do please. I have a futaba attack r controller- do just swap the crystal over to the new ESC? Is there anything else I need to remove? Also I need new tyres for the rear wheels and new rear shocks ( the others have always sagged and it seems to run too low to the ground. They are 65mm so was thinking I could get some linger ones? Any advice on what size shocks and wheels I'd need would be appreciated along with where to source them (/I'm in the UK). My kids are you so want them to get used to the fun of rc cars before they migrate to more modern models! Many thanks for any advice. Oli
  21. Want to buy Kyosho Platinum front shocks needed for optima project, already have Gold shocks and need the Platinum ones now. thank you
  22. Lucky enough to pick this up from Ebay for £16. Changed the receiver, new battery and off she flew. I would be grateful if anyone can identify her as i need to find a shell. She has 280mm wheelbase and 200m across.
  23. I've finally acquired an F1 GTR longtail body, it's 280mm wheelbase and 220mm wide. * I bought it without a chassis or a plan. Or the knowledge that it wasn't a standard dimension touring car. I just noticed there seems to be two versions of the shell, one includes the roof inlet extension - as pictured with Gulf and Lark livery here. The other appears to be a different mold with no extension, I have the latter. It also appears that the former is a 200mm, wide 260mm wheelbase body. Also note the wing is different. like these:http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=93307&sid=24222 http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=86246&sid=28462 I'd like to make a brushless version on a modern brushless chassis. The closest fit I've found initially is the Redcat Pagani Huyara. It's 210mm wide and 277mm in wheelbase. That seems to be a good fit. The width will easily be used by dished/staggered wheels. I have some reservations about Redcat, but they don't seem to have a dwindling part supply or anything. Anyone have experiences with them? But this gets me thinking, perhaps there's a 1/8th or 1/9th scale brushless chassis that could be downsized easily? Maybe even a Tamiya? *if anyone has the decal set unused, I'd love a scan. or a parts tree for the wing/mirrors/etc.
  24. Hello world, from cold Sweden I made a video on youtube with clips from me and my friends RCs, feel free to check it out The plan is to upload videos on a regular basis if theres an interest in what I create. Anyway.. enjoy!
  25. Greets, I`m selling up due to retirement. i have some pretty rare parts ending soon,more to be listed over the next couple of months,please do bookmark me and keep looking. Very best of luck. and many thanks. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/anchordriver/m.html?item=182155358527&hash=item2a694e313f%3Ag%3AauQAAOSw3R1XTta5&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
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