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Found 67 results

  1. Here’s a little trick stand I made using LEGO. It’ll keep from developing a flat spot due to all the weight of the bike resting on the front tire when sitting on your shelf for a prolonged period.
  2. I've picked up a banged up original Ultima with the intention of getting it back on the road but it is missing a few bits. Most seem to be available on the rere. Tyres, radio plate, roll cage are the main things but it is missing some gears and the shafts they sit on. Does anyone know if the gears off the re-release wil fit the old version? They look very different but if they fit the old mounting plate positions it might work? I'm planning on keeping the original diff if possible? Cheers
  3. Hi all, My next documented restoration thread takes me away from Tamiya. As you all probably know I mainly collect Tamiya nitro however now and again I tend to drift towards other makes. In this instance Kyosho. The Turbo Burns came to me from Ebay UK. I paid £46 for it delivered in this condition: Obviously missing a body, it has the wrong wing (its not an Inferno either) and covered in muck. First thing I have done with it is to jetwash the whole thing. Now that seems harsh but in actual fact it will be fully stripped, the RC gear will be scrapped anyway and the motor will be fully serviced. Other than that there is nothing that will get damaged. So jet wash done I am left with this to look over: She is complete all bar the body, wing and air filter pretty much. Bodies are available as repro items along with the wing and decal set and the filter I think I already have. Wheels and tyres will be a challenge but we will see what happens. The car is fitted with a nice period Mondial motor and I will try and restore that. It isn't seized so that's a good start. Some of the metal components are showing signs of rust and that awful jubilee clip exhaust tube will be going. It has some nice aftermarket shocks fitted, hopefully these will clean up well. The rear arm threaded bars I already have new. Chassis plate has a few marks but confident these should sand/polish out. I may replace it if I find a new one because I'm not a fan of extra drilled holes and this has a couple. All in all though a good starting basis. More to follow soon when I strip her down.
  4. I need to vent for a moment. I've spent way too much time lately looking for 0.8mod pinions for use in Tamiya and Kyosho vintage cars. Seems most manufacturers group 0.8mod with 32p calling them "the same". They are close. Very close in fact, but THEY ARE NOT EXACTLY THE SAME. And when you are talking about mechanical tolerances measured in 0.1mm variances, it makes a difference. You can have PERFECT gear mesh between the pinion and spur, but if they are not the exact same gear pitch, you will have extra noise and extra wear compared to when both gears are the exact same pitch. 32p = 0.7938mod 0.8mod = 31.75p Practically speaking, DOES THIS MATTER? For the most part, no it doesn't. You can use 32p pinions with 0.8mod spurs and not have any trouble. Many, many people will attest to this, including racers that really push their cars. I'm sure there will be replies this post confirming that using 32p with 0.8mod spurs is perfectly fine. But, if you categorize yourself as a perfectionist, anal, or autistic, it will bother you that you are mixing 32p with 0.8mod. It bothers me. I won't say which category I fall into. I wish manufacturers were honest and factual when representing their products. If the pinion is machined as 32p, say so. It if is machined as 0.8mod, say so. Do not say 32p/0.8mod. It is false advertising. The math proves this. It cannot be both at the same time. The machining setup required to grind the gear teeth is different between 32p and 0.8mod. It is one, or the other. From my research it looks like the choices for true 0.8mod pinions for 1/8" shaft motors are few and far between: You can buy the butter-soft Tamiya aluminum stock pinions. Too many to list, but they are cheap at least. But you risk stripping out the spur once the pinion has worn down enough. If you keep track of wear, you can avoid spur damage in most cases. These do not last very long as most of us on this forum know. That's why switching to a steel pinion is one of the most common recommendations to make to someone that asks "I'm about to build ______. What hop-ups should I add to my car?" You can buy the Tamiya steel pinions: Tamiya 54628 Steel Pinion 17T 0.8mod Tamiya 54629 Steel Pinion 19T 0.8mod But as you can see, there are only 17T and 19T choices. You can buy Kyosho vintage pinions: W-5009 - Hard Pinion 9T 0.8mod W-5010 - Hard Pinion 10T 0.8mod W-5011 - Hard Pinion 11T 0.8mod OT-23 - Aluminum Pinion 12T 0.8mod OT-50 - Aluminum Pinion 13T 0.8mod OT-51 - Aluminum Pinion 14T 0.8mod OT-24 - Aluminum Pinion 15T 0.8mod OT-52 - Aluminum Pinion 16T 0.8mod OT-53 - Aluminum Pinion 17T 0.8mod UM-24 - Aluminum Pinion 19T 0.8mod Since these are vintage, they are usually a bit more expensive and harder to find. And the aluminum ones are butter-soft like Tamiya stock so you don't want them anyway. You can buy the Carson steel pinions: 500013400 - Steel Pinion 10T 0.8mod 500013401 - Steel Pinion 11T 0.8mod 500013403 - Steel Pinion 13T 0.8mod 500013439 - Steel Pinion 14T 0.8mod <--- Yes, part # is correct. 500013404 appears to be some Audi Quattro S1 1/10 scale body. 500013405 - Steel Pinion 15T 0.8mod 500013406 - Steel Pinion 16T 0.8mod 500013407 - Steel Pinion 17T 0.8mod 500013408 - Steel Pinion 18T 0.8mod 500013409 - Steel Pinion 19T 0.8mod For 5mm motor shafts, Robinson Racing makes some high carbon steel 0.8mod pinions. Their website is broken, so you can't see the part numbers for them and I don't care enough to look it up somewhere else because I don't use 5mm motor shafts. So far I have not been successful in finding any Chinese manufacturers of 0.8mod pinions for 1/8" motor shafts. I've just placed a ridiculous order ($$$) with Tony's Tamiya Parts for Carson 0.8mod pinions because there is literally no other choice, which is rather frustrating. I live in the USA, so Carson is generally not available here except through sellers like Tony's. Thanks for listening to my rant. I feel a little bit better.
  5. Any idea why the optima platform sounds like a fighting cat? It feels quite different to any other car.. highly pitched I would say. Is it because of the chain? Does the belt version sound any different? Deeply trascendental question, I am aware
  6. Hey! First of all I must confess I am a Kyosho person, so apologies in first place :) When I was 17 I bought a Kyosho Shadow 4WD which I discovered resting at my parent's place and after some cleaning and new electronics is still working pretty good, it's not a high end car, but still pretty capable for having fun. Now fully immersed on my midlife crisis, I am considering getting one of the 2WD legendary series car. I can't afford all of them ( meaning my wife would kill me ) so I need some advice on which might be the best for me. I like the Tomahawk the most, I find it a gorgeous car and love the platform better than the scorpion one, I've seen also that in Japan there's a bunch of people using it for classic racing. My next choice would be the beetle, I just love the way it looks, and finally I am considering the Turbo Scorpion. Nowadays it's almost impossible getting the first two, so I am considering getting the Turbo Scorpion, which is also a beautiful car, easier to drive, better shocks, and with more evolving options and parts as far as I know. Questions: Might both the Tomahawk or Beetle bodies be easily fitted into the Turbo Scorpion chassis? I really like the TS body but if I can get a Tomahawk or Beetle body and swap it sometimes, it could be fun. What do you think? Can't find any specific info on that, but I've seen this kind of things in Japanese pictures, even using on other platforms like Tamiya DT03. What about wheels? I know the TS uses regular 2,2" rims with hex fitting, but could I try the TH or Beetle ones on it? And final question, Do you guys think the Shadow 4WD might be worth selling? Thanks!
  7. So I always wanted a Optima Mid actually since back in the days. Even dough I can remember that I never understood the others how they could consider anything else than Tamiya. But this car is such an awsome buggy, it got the right look and some very nice decals. That said, my Optima Mid is no looker, but I hope I can turn it into an nice survivor car. I have disassembled the car, so that i can wash all the parts. I have already bought a new body (TBG) and decals (MCI Racing). I guess I could just have painted and applied decals to a new body and added some new tires, and this one would have looked stunning on the shelf, but I can’t just get myself to take such an short cut.
  8. Stuck on two restores (as is the way) and so time to crack this one open. My first NIB build since 1987. It feels great knowing I won’t discover half way through that I’m missing a part. I didn’t realise though that the Ladder Chain (OT226) was NOT in the kit. I’ve seen kits online where the same sticker and blister space “Option Parts OT226” is there with a chain inside. Are there two versions of the kit? Not to worry, I’ll build belt drive.
  9. Hello. I’m requesting help with obtaining a scanned copy of the instruction manual for Kyosho kit # 4232, .049 Espo Larrousse F1 racer. I would like the entire manual but what I really need is the exploded parts diagram, the itemized parts listing (with individual part numbers), and the option/hop-up parts listing. The manual pages for the similar .049 Ferrari F189 F1 car would also work if one is available. Even clear cell-phone pics of the requested pages would be much appreciated. Please help if you can…thank you!!
  10. So as ever I usually have around 8 or 9 projects on the go. As the David Jun TNX and the Kyosho Turbo Burns near completion I have been wondering which kits to do next. I picked this up from Japan recently and thought it would be good to do next. The Pajero along with the Citroen ZX is one of the rarer nitro cars from this family. Most people would of heard about the RS200 and the Peugeot 405. I have an RS200 to restore and I have already done the 405. The Citroen ZX body I have just needs a chassis. So the Pajero has a badly cracked body, to bad for me to want to use it so I have used some body tape to hold it together and it will get sold off. The Pajero does look good though The chassis is pretty much complete but needs some love Having looked it over there are a few plastic parts missing and I have already ordered them, mainly some mounts, the aerial holder etc. The parts aren't too rusty and I am hoping I can recover the tyres and wheels with some care. A few plastic parts are bent (body mounts) but they should straighten up. Most parts from these chassis are still available in the Kyosho FD- range. I already have a new body so that will be painted for this restoration by @jonboy1 The engine on this is the Kyosho GS-11R and it is seized solid. Its also missing the carb but that was easy enough to find. The rest of the engine restoration will be documented. Next steps will be to strip the car down, time to get dirty again!
  11. Well it has reached the point where I think I am going to be parting with most of my collection. I am based in the US and would prefer to ship to the lower 48 states but if there is something you are willing to pay to ship elsewhere maybe we can work things out. I just dont have the time and space to be hoarding all these cars anymore, and you guys get first pick I take paypal and please message me here on tamiya club feel free to ask for more pictures or info. All prices are with USPS flat rate shipping included. JG MFG yokomo YZ-870 big front bumper, fits what the label says, Free to a good home just pay for shipping AE RC10 team car build. polished kick plate. 1990 roar nats stickers on car and the purple body. $220 Kyosho F1 onroad car parts: tires/foams in great shape some small cracks , top plate and rear pod. Free to a tc member in need, please just pay for shipping. DB01R RTR minus TX (Can remove spectrum RX if not needed). Needs a CVD joint rebuild kit. Update: found a spring cup to use but its not a original. Also included is full set of front arms front/back shock tower, reinforced belts, hard drive cups. Motor and speedo is a generic 380 rotor in 540 can but it runs really well. $180 AE SC10 4x4 RTR (minus TX and I can remove the spectrum receiver if not needed) Missing one of the barrels that fits inside the CVD joint. Body has wrap applied. Hitec 645MG servo, castle 4 pole sidewinder system. I will include a clear SC10 body as well. This car has only been raced a couple of times. $200 HPI Nitro Rs4 MT, for parts, close to being a roller. I bought this for parts and it has a lot of purple hop ups. Team associated GT2 body. Parts for these are getting hard to find now that is the reason why i cant build the rest to completion $120 HPI Rs4 mt roller: Has a rear belt that is in poor shape. comes with two bug shells and one engine, no drivers cover or gear cover. Front MIP CVD's $120 AE RC10DS roller: Mustang body was trimmed poorly. The previous owner swapped out the hubs/knuckles over to traxxas ones so that standard touring car tires fit. Chassis is in great condition, missing battery cup. $120 Radioshack red arrow parts car free to a good home just pay the shipping. no remote or circuit board in the car
  12. Help needed just got these any ideas what they are thanks for ure help
  13. Hello All, First time posting, so apologies if I err in some way. My question is about calculating the final drive ratio on a 2016 Kyosho Optima. They list the stock FDR as 9.24:1. The spur gear is 61t; pinion is 25t. They also sell an optional spur gear for brushless setups that is 51t, and they then recommend using either 30, 31, 32t pinion gear, which puts the final drive ratio at 6.24:1 (if using the 31t pinion). Now that just seems like a massive drop in the gear ratio, and wonder if anybody has ever done anything similar on this or other similar vehicles. Another thing that had me scratching my head is- how is their FDR calculated? I spent a badword of a lot of time on line reading different methods of calculating. I have tried running the numbers with the internal belt-drive pulley, diff gear, final pinion (internal), counter gear, and of course the outboard spur and pinion. No matter what I do, I can not replicate their claimed ratio specs. If anybody could kindly offer some advice, I’d be grateful. Many thanks, Ryan
  14. I got this around 1989 when I was in Jr. High. It was my first hobby grade R/C kit after my first R/C car that was a black Nikko Typhoon from Service Merchandise. I ordered it from Tower Hobbies along with the Kyosho Pulsar Pro 2000 transmitter/receiver/servo package. Drove it for a few years, then left the hobby for around 20 years. I happened to dig it out of my parents' shed so that I could see if I could salvage this and a Kyosho Tracker that I had sitting in there for my son. Straight out of storage. The MSC that you see on there is a newer replacement from the Kyosho that I got later on. The one that came with the car is an even older model with all the contact points exposed... which I still have. As you can see... the stock leMans 05 motor is still in there. Unfortunately, I painted the front wheels green, and the rear wheels I traded for a set of 3 different ones back when I was younger. The rear wing is something I added on later from something else. Anyway, took it out and started cleaning it with a disposable toothbrush. I ordered a body from ebay since my original one apparently went missing, and it had a terrible paint job anyway from what I remember. My son likes the color blue, so I decided to paint it a metallic blue. Finally got the car up and running using a Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 Brushed ESC, Airtronics 371W receiver paired with Sanwa MK-V Transmitter. The original shocks/dampers were in bad shape. 2 of them had cracks in the tubes which was fairly common for this car. I took them off and replaced them with Kyosho FD-37 FD-38 ultima oil filled dampers. I also painted the wheels I had back to white. Ordered some repro decals made by ******* Racing. Not exactly the same as the original kit, and definitely not the same quality... but for this project, it'll do. I think it looks great now! I have an old brushed twister scorpion motor that I might stick in this, and I'm considering upgrading the kyosho servo to maybe a savox servo or something stronger. I'm also looking into seeing if there is a way to improve the tie-rod/turnbuckle system that it's currently using to help it turn better.
  15. As in, I hope it won't take long, rather than I hope the car will be fast. I think it is fast, but we'll come to that later. So, anyone who haunts this non-Tamiya section of TC may have seen my confusion over the steering system on a second-hand Kyosho Raider that I recently bought. The car looked great, had some of the electronics included and on a cursory check seemed to be in pretty good condition throughout. However, the steering was all over the shop, with the front wheels displaying an alarming degree of toe-out. Some debate ensued as to why this was, but it was narrowed down to the ball joint on the hubs being inserted into the 'inner' of the two available holes. This not only had a disastrous effect on the car's stance while stationary, but would have also had a similar effect on its steering ability while in motion, as shown by this image of it on full lock. So what's the to-do? Well, first of all, have a quick nose around the chassis to see what we can find.
  16. If you have a Kyosho Rocky and the original shocks, you already know how difficult they are to restore. One of the biggest reasons for this is because the shock shaft is an integral part of the piston design. The piston itself is unlike any other shock design by Kyosho: Unique shock shaft: Unique piston (notice that it is very thin and hollowed out with notches on either side): Tiny little spring to allow the piston to slide on the shaft to alter the shock vs rebound damping rate depending on impact force (non-adjustable unless you replaced the spring itself):
  17. I have been looking for awhile for a Ball Diff Plate for my Kyosho Axis Ex. The inner diameter of the plate is 1.5 cm and outer diameter of 2.5 cm. I looked at other manufactures and can seem to find a match. Does anyone know of a replacement Ball Dill Plate that is still availabl?. Thanks in advance.
  18. unhooked esc like an idiot , and can not re- install , followed manual nothing , steering works but can not get it to move , says turn off ABS transmitter has no abs dial or button did i screw something up or just missing something ... ???
  19. I am looking for a Kyosho Renault Laguna body, not worried about decals. Either a body or a complete car, as long as the body is un painted. As I have finally managed to get hold of a set of Carson Nescafe Blend 37 decals and a few pots of PC5 brush on black and would like to do a 1998 BTCC replica to go with my 1997 version. Many thanks, James.
  20. Looking for some FWD Maxxum parts to complete a(nother) project: MA-1 Bumper Set MA-2 Front Susp Arms MA-3 Rear Susp Arms MA-5 Servo Saver MA-13 Linkage Set MA-14 Body MA-17 Wheels W-5061 UJs W-5003/4 Adjustable Shock Drop me a PM if you have any of these, ideally new or as-new but will consider decent used if I have to.
  21. Well, this certainly won't be as comprehensive as the bruiser thread was, as the build itself took me about 6hrs all up - LOL. But as we all know - ♫ Everyone loves a build thread! ♫ So here is my short and sweet thread, some questions will be asked, but it's more for the punters out there who Google this and need some pics!
  22. Came across this vintage Kyosho RC promo video. pretty cool https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KNjxw5wO7y4 Another one some older guy running his 35 year old Kyosho Lancia Stratos Integra has one these in his showroom if I remembered correctly. http://youtube.com/watch?v=-VxvpLrjuME
  23. Sold! This one can be closed. I am selling my Kyosho Progress project. I started it several months ago building up a progress from an incomplete Progress and an incomplete Gallop chassis but came to the conclusion that it is not really my cup of tea so i am selling it again to fund a new project. It comes with several spares including the rear shocks that still need to be revised and an original new Progress decal sheet. This is the status of the chassis. It has been built up from scratch. Only needs the dampers revised and mounted, the top chain guide is missing and a new chain is needed as the current one is too short. Complete spare gearbox is included and several remaining gallop parts, including front/rear wheels. Also comes with the original Gallop Mk II manual and It has all the parts converted to convert it back into a gallop Mk II if desired. I am looking for 100 Euro (excluding shipping costs) but will consider any good offer. I ship worldwide and accept paypal.
  24. Hi live just bought a used model and it had 2 old batteries in the box made by kyosho did they make batteries in the 80s.
  25. RNSpeed

    Kyosho Legend?

    I was reading the October 1989 RCCA Magazine and on their section Inside Scoop they mention an upcoming 4WD Kyosho called the Legend. Ive never heard of this car. Anyone have more info on this?
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