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Found 6 results

  1. Hello, I am a long time modeller, although not very skilled. I have constructed a few Tamiya 1\16th tanks, but fancied something else, so got the Tamiya Grand Hauler with MFC. Of course I wanted to have the MFC working and still have the cab intact with the driver. I found it easier than you might think as it all fitted into the sleeper section at the back. I simply put the MFC up on its edge and made a small slim extension for it to rest on, although not really required if you used a few strips of velcro on the back of the speaker. Make holes in the cross sections of the frame to run cables neatly otherwise you get massive unsightly mass from back to front. I also wanted more of the lights to work instead of leaving them blank as your only meant to use certain lights dependant on if you use MFC 1 or 3, i think. I simply wired up extra leds to the working ones. I also added extra head lights. Anyway, its all pretty simple, apart from the spraying which I i found difficult to do in a non dust free environment, however a little wet and dry fine sand paper on some rough areas and a respray and it came out ok. I used TS-13 laquer on top. No probs. Watch for runs. Enjoy the pics - hope they help someone, Cheers Russ
  2. OK, so now I'm offiicially too poor to go around buying stuff that just works, I'm into the muddy waters of having to make things. I have an SCX-10 with space for 5 LEDs in the roof bar, two in the headlamps and I'll have to make something fit out back because there's no bucket or molding for tail lights. That's no big deal. It's a heavy-use Class 2 scale rig so I don't want to go overboard with indicators, break lights, reverse lights etc - I just want two headlights, five spots on the roof and two tail lights out back so I can crawl in the dark. I've got a selection of 5mm LEDs in the right colours from various other light kits, pretty much enough lights to make everything work. I just took delivery of a KillerBody light kit with a whole bunch of lights. I thought this would be perfect for fitting up just what I want but it seems it's more geared towards a specific body than it is a generic light kit - the rooflights are a string of 6, the headlights are a string of 4, and there's all sorts of features I don't care for (like the headlights brightening at full throttle) which I don't think I can change. I had at least expected individual lights and individual sockets, not strings. I'll either have to cut off the lights I don't want or tape over them and stick them out of the way. Or, indeed, it might just be easier to rig up the old lights I've got in a single string and stick them where I need them, and power them off a spare receiver port. The problem is I don't know the ratings on the LEDs (not sure if there's a way to tell just by looking at an LED?) and I don't know what value resistor I might or might not need to get 9 5mm LEDs (7 white and 2 red) to cooperate on a single series circuit from a receiver channel. Anyone have any ideas? I tried to rig up a single LED to a 2S LiPo and it fried, I don't want to try wiring up any strings without knowing for sure they won't burn out. In theory I could hook all the lights I have up to a spare TLU-01 module that I have lying around but this rig tends to get submerged quite often and I don't think the TLU will survive for long. The UK Scaler Nationals is just over a week away so I don't have time to order any crazy LED kits from Banggood... Any advice on stringing up different LEDs in series, calculating resistor values, or anything else that might help?
  3. Who has experience with mounting led lights on a Tamiya Hornet? Any tips or tricks, especially on mounting lights at the rear of a Hornet. Regards Walter
  4. So I have this plan for my new-and-improved hobby room. I'll be using adjustable shelving brackets so I can reconfigure my display shelves however I please. My goal is to have lighting installed underneath each shelf so it will shine down on the cars below. I'll be able to flick a single switch and my entire display will come to life. The basic idea is that I can turn my display setup into some cool ambient lighting when I'm working in the hobby room or reading my Kindle there. I've worked out how to supply power to each shelf from a single common source and how to add individual toggle switches in case I want to turn the lights off on any given shelf, if for example there's nothing beneath that shelf worth shining a light on. So, being quite happy with electrical wiring in general but totally new to LED lighting, my questions are as follows: What sort of power should I use? I can hook up a 12V DC adaptor to the mains or run from an old 7.2V NiMH pack. Can anyone advise how many LEDs and what type I might need under each shelf to highlight the car below? By "shelf" assume "big enough for a single 1:10 buggy". My shelves are angled so I might have to install the LEDs in reflectors to get the light to shine on the car and not on the wall. Any advice on the best colour LED to use to make the cars look good in the dark? I think pure white might be too harsh so I'm considering a softer colour, maybe yellow or orange like street lamps. Has anyone used colour-changing LEDs and how hard are they to configure, as I'll be custom-wiring them? If they have to be run from a controller board then I could install that near the power source and run all the bulbs from one controller... Right..? I have some cars with lights already fitted. I'm considering having an option to hook the light unit up to the master power source when the cars are shelved, so the car lights come on when I turn the display lights on. Will the LEDs in, for example, a TLU-01 kit, take 12V? Will the TLU-01 controller take 12V or will it go pop? This isn't a be-all end-all, I doubt I'll use car lighting much as the lights will shine out of the display and across the room, which might annoy me. Thanks all
  5. Hi folks, recently I have gotten a bit obsessed with LED light buckets, so I thought I'd share ...
  6. Hi everyone, thought it would be cool to light up the sand rovers. I got 2 kits of ebay (dpbmodles), they have 2 white, 2 red & 2 blue lamps a switch & a 9v battery connection. I guess i can just plug 'n play but can i power them of the receiver & switch them on/off via the hand set? I do have a spare channel on trans & rec. This would be better as i won't need the battery or chop the sw into the dash. I don't need them to work with throttle nor brakes, on all the time is fine. Hope to hear from you soon, thanks.
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