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Found 31 results

  1. The seller keeps dropping the prices randomly. I got 2x 5500mah 3s for £7.99 and 2x 3300mah 3s for £6.99! They had 4x 1500mah for £5.99 the other day too. I've got a couple of Floureon packs and they have been fine for me so it might be worth it for a bargain. It's the same seller I got mine off over a year ago too. They use different accounts but the accounts are all "based" in Southall UK so you can tell it's the same seller. Almost certainly a Chinese seller but mine came from Germany so they have stock in Europe at least. UPDATE: Apparently they are available on US ebay too?
  2. Hi all, I need to know the battery size for TD4 without making any change. I want to fit a standard lipo hard case 2S, can I? It's a gens ace 5500 2S 50c Thanks
  3. Hey guys, finally got my original Madcap ripping again! Bought an aftermarket shell and decals to replace the destroyed original. Got rid of my burnt out stock diff for a custom made planetary gear diff from a decent group on ebay. Added an original aluminum motor plate because my plastic one broke, as well as some aftermarket rims and Pro-Line Blockade tires. Upgraded all the electronics with a Fuze 60a brushless ESC, Spektrum SR315 Receiver and a cheap 4370kv brushless motor from Surpass Hobby. Gotta say this is my favorite car to drive so far, the whine from the gearbox even with aftermarket diff sounds awesome and the way this thing handles is actually pretty decent, gotta love being able to pull wheelies while already cruising at half throttle! I'll have to figure out how to post some videos!
  4. I took my Losi out on Sunday but got sidetracked from running it much. I took 2 fully charged 3s packs with me so now I have probably one and a half left. I’ll use the half today. Question is how long can I leave a fully charged pack until I put it into storage?
  5. I think I'm the only one (apart from the Japanese ) to use lifepo4 batteries. Graupner produced two models of lifepo4 batteries (one rounded 3000mah as a perfect fit for vintage models and one squared 4000mah), but now it's in bankrupt and I don't know where to get new batteries ... do you have any information?
  6. Hi All, Just curious if any of you here have ditched the 4 "AA" 6V battery holders used to power the servos and receiver on Nitro cars in favor of running a small, comparably sized LiPo pack? If so, what brand/spec/size/etc... do you use? I'm partial to Venom Power batteries, but not married to them if there are better/less expensive options that are a direct fit. And do you also use a LiPo alarm to avoid dropping below 3.5V or is that not much of an issue given the small power draw? Michael
  7. Hi all, I'm in need of some advice from those of you who have experience with the DT-03 chassis. Specifically, battery advice and which battery to go with. The electronics I'll be using in this build are relatively simple: I'll be using the stock TBLE-02S ESC that came with the kit, along with a Tamiya TBLM-02S sensored 10.5T brushless motor, and either a RadioLink R7FG or R6F receiver (haven't decided if I want a gyro in this buggy). I've been back and forth between using a NiMh or a LiPo battery for this build. I don't plan to race this buggy at all - it'll just be a fun recreational run-about with maybe an occasional trip to a local RC track, but no competitive use. Most of my experience has been with NiMh batteries, specifically Venom Power brand batteries, but I know LiPo is the way to go for sheer, raw performance, especially for a brushless setup. I'm not married to either NiMh or LiPo though - I'll consider any option. So I turn to those of you who are far more experienced with this: what battery would you recommend for my DT-03 Racing Fighter? Thanks very much in advance. Cheers!
  8. Hi All, With the quarantine stretching on I got ambitious with upgrading my son’s Sand Viper. The kit comes with the brushless ready TBLE-02 S. Reading the forums here it sounded like pairing this with 2s lipo, a steel pinion and a 13.5T sensored brushless was a good route to some fun (thank you!). I acquired a Muchmore Fleta ZX v2 13.5T https://www.amainhobbies.com/muchmore-fleta-zx-v2-13.5t-er-spec-brushless-motor-mmrmr-v2zx135er/p693983 After soldering it all together the ECS starts up flashing red/green which indicates it thinks it’s in sensorless mode. Ok here’s the trouble shooting I’ve tried: 1) Attach the old sport tuned brushed motor: works fine. 2) Attached an old sensorless brushless motor: esc starts up in low voltage warning mode 3) Removed the sensor harness and tried running the Muchmore motor: it gave a small shudder and was clearly getting power than stopped and gave the over load protection warning. (This May have been unwise but I was looking for options) 4) Attached an NiMH battery and tried steps 1-3 plus the original setup with the Muchmore, table-02 and the nimh: same results across the board. I attached a picture of the setup and am happy to take more. It could be my solders are bad (they sure are ugly) but they are very solid, I could lift the car with them. There’s no crossover or short on the solder. And step three above seems to indicate the motor is getting power. I’m happy to chase any ideas or suggestions. Thanks in advance!
  9. Hi all. I've just built my xv01 and am very pleased with how it slides about, but a little underwhelmed with its performance on NiMH. I've bought a B6AC Lipo charger. The xv01 has a 1060WP ESC and stock motor. I also have a lunchbox with Tamiya ESC and a sport tuned in it. I know I would need a lipo alarm for that one or different ESC. I need advice regarding if a silvercan / sport tuned would last running 3s, and what battery pack would fit in the xv01. If it's a really bad idea, the same questions regarding 2s. Want to keep the cost down at the moment so steering clear of brushless! Plus, it's all very confusing at the moment. Thanks in advance. 👍
  10. Hi guys I’m just starting my journey into Tamiya and rc cars. I’ve purchased my first Tamiya kit (Egress) as a Christmas present to myself and plan to start building it on Boxing day. I thought it wise to learn all I can before then and I’m currently on the subject of LiPo batteries / chargers. I have read countless articles and videos but there are still some really basic questions that I would really like answered. 1. If I decide to stop running my car for a few weeks/months what do I do with the battery? As I understand it, I need to discharge it to a safe voltage (ie place it in storage mode). Once I do that, can I simply unplug it from the charger, put it in a LiPo safe bag, and then put it on my garage shelf? 2. Where’s the best place to charge your LiPo battery? The thought of it exploding (even though this is apparently very rare) in my house scares me to death. Therefore, I’d be happier charging it in my garage (maybe in a ceramic pot / LiPo Safe bag). However, I read that you should never charge it unattended. 3. I understand that you shouldn’t let the battery drop below a certain level so save degradation. How do you know it’s not dropped below this level while driving the car? Does the ESC cut it off automatically when it reaches a certain voltage? I fully understand and appreciate that these are probably silly questions to ask but I thought it’s better to find out from experienced users than experiment as i go along. Any help or advice would be fully appreciated. Best regards Rod
  11. Hey Guys, I ran into two maintenance issues. First off, I keep breaking my MST SP1 +3 wheels. I broke 3 wheels in winter, in a parking garage, which was probably due to the cold weather. But then, two more wheels snapped in hot weather. One broke after repeated small impacts while doing wallruns. Due to my own stupidity, basically. But one broke without any reasonable explanation. All of them snapped were the spoke connect to the hub thingy in the inside, even though they're quite beefy. (For MST wheels at least) Also, last week I started charging ne of my Yuki Brainergy LiPos, left the room, came back after a few minutes, and found the charger (robbe Power Peak Uni7) flashing it's LED. Pulled the Plug, opened the bag, LiPo is swollen. Polarity and and balancer were all connected properly. Then, I charged my other LiPo, and it took several hours longer than usually, Eventually, I just disconnected it, even though the charger wasn't finished with it. It wasn't hot or swollen or anything out of the ordinary, so I chucked it in the car, drove two really long sessions without the battery dying. Took it out, and Surprise! Swollen! The battery is mounted on a custom aluminum battery tray, which has flat screw heads protruding from it (about one milimeter, maybe 1.5). However, both batteries show no sign of damage were the screws are. The lower edges seem slightly scuffed, though. Seriously, what am I doing wrong? What's the dealß Bad plastic in the wheels? Broken charger? Bad luck? Please stop my descent into insanity, this is wrecking my nerves, as well as my bank balance.
  12. for sale vintage stadium blitzer original upgraded lrp esc for lipos, upgraded motor, front alloy c-hubs comes with receiver and transmitter, just put a battery and run it SOLD
  13. Just getting back into the scene after years away. In the past I ran nitro, now I'm going electric. Finally figuring out this lipo and brushless stuff, but I'm at decision point. Awaiting my new TT02 White edition kit in the mail, and I need to order a motor/esc combo but I have no idea where to even begin with regards to what I need. Here's what I know: 1) It has to be compatible with the 2s lipos I already have. (One 4000mah and one 6500mah) 2)I need both motor and esc so a combo makes sense. 3) Want to keep price around $100 or less. This article has a ton of options but I don't know what the differences are. https://www.onkidstoys.com/top-21-best-esc-motor-combos/ I'm going to be racing at a local track doing rally. The guys who go there suggested this combo: https://www.hobbytown.com/xerun-justock-zero-spec-sensored-brushless-esc-motor-combo-13.5t-by-hobbywing-hwa38020401/p453305 This is one I keep seeing advertised: Http://www.horizonhobby.com/KXSS0500?utm_medium=display&utm_source=criteo&utm_campaign=productremarketing&utm_content=KXSS0500&CA_6C15C=320011980000459400 Happy to take suggestions. Don't need the world's fastest motor but I'd like to be competitive. Thanks!
  14. As the speed run thread has started a new category for silver can cars, I thought I'd have a go at it with my Mad Bull. I've been wanting to mod the chassis for a while now to improve on the stock steering installation, and also want to be able to use LiPo battery packs. So the first thing to do was to remove the excess protrusions from the inside of the chassis and make a slot in the back of the bathtub: to allow fitment of the LiPo into the chassis: After that I made a new plate to install the steering servo. The plate allows the servo to be mounted lower so I can bin the stock steering connecting rod, which I replaced with a old 3 step speedo connecting rod. I also machined a slot into the back of the plate to retain the radio tray, which is going to sit behind it: This next pic shows the steering servo fitted, and the foam I fitted either side of the LiPo to hold it rigid in the chassis: This is new radio tray, which when secured also holds the battery in the chassis: It's held in at the front with slots machined into both plates: Made some brass 'body mounts' to screw into the chassis to hold the radio tray down: Radio tray fitted with body mounts. I can remove it by just pulling the 2 body pins. The next pic shows the radio tray populated, there's even room for the GPS speed meter: I can even read the GPS through the drivers window Not bad for a (long) days work, tried it out on the drive in the dark but it's been raining so nothing but wheelspin and white sparks coming out of the motor at full throttle. Need to wait for an opportunity now to run it and get a good speed measurement.
  15. Hello wonderful people, I have been lurking and reading/learning/envying a while but now I need help lol The Mrs and I got each other blitzer beetles for xmas (woop) and I was intending on putting a brushless set up in mine. I went for one of these, as it was in my toolbox for some reason http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__41130__Turnigy_TrackStar_Waterproof_1_10_Brushless_Power_System_4000KV_80A_UK_Warehouse_.html Got it set up and with a two cell lipo, however I'm getting serious cogging and the power seems somewhat delayed. Its set up with a 13t steel pinion (recommended lots on here thank you) Any suggestions on getting the cogging sorted? Might be worth noting that if i hold the car off ground it doesn't cog but the power delivery still seems off somehow. Thanks!
  16. Well I’m happy to say that I’m the proud owner of a vintage Clod Buster that I won on eBay this morning (apologies to any TC members who I sniped I just had to have one in my life!) I’ll pick her up tomorrow and the plan is to bring her back to box art so I can re-live yet another missed childhood dream. Couple of questions… Firstly, would you guys recommend keeping the original shell as the runner and purchasing a new body & decals for the shelf or should I restore the body and just have the one? I plan on running her, how hard I’m not sure but she will do some clodding around… Just not sure if it’s financially viable to go ahead and purchase a new shell and decals… From what I can gather it looks like $200AUD is about the cheapest I could get that for!!! The second question is around electrics… I want to use LiPo’s and an ESC – I’ll probably just keep the motors or put in maybe Sport Tuned in there. What is a good reasonably prices ESC and also servos for this truck in your opinions? My days are passed of purchasing the highest quality Hitec servos (literally been there done that with the 1/5 gas cars) so now am all about the balance of good enough, cheap enough as I am yet to find problems even with Turnigy Lipo’s and Hobby King servos! But the torque recommendations would be appreciated. I am using this in the Bruiser, which seems ok: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=51179 I have read on here that a few have used this, however with the Clod do I need two or a specific two motor esc? http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__46161__HobbyKing_X_Car_45A_Brushed_Car_ESC_AU_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=HobbyKing%20X-Car%2045A%20Brushed%20Ca Anyhow, thanks guys for the brains trust.
  17. I just want to check this before I set it on mine as I am weary of ruining any of my batteries... Should the cut off voltage on my EZrun be set at 3.2v for 2S batteries? I had it set to 3.4v but the voltage cut off was kicking in as soon as I gave it a burst of acceleration. I have been using it with no lipo cut off recently but just using a 3rd party alarm to alert me but I would rather use the built in function if possible. Thanks
  18. Hi, second post My name is Craig and I've been a tamiya nut since getting my first proper RC car aged 12 (a midnight pumpkin). I'm now 38, and with the disposable income I could only dream about as a kid, I'm reclaiming old racing memories I decided I fancied getting another TA04 & put a wanted ad up on Oople a few months back. A friendly ex eurocup racer got in touch to tell me about the Iconic Cup - a two round summer championship for eurocup refugees. So I went and bought two TA04 chassis - one for stock, and the other for full-blown 13.5 blinky. I then went on to spend an absolute fortune on hop-ups! One of the major problems with these older chassis is that they were designed for 7.2v 6-cell Nimh packs. None of my top spec lipo sticks would fit, so I went and bought a couple of the core rc lipo stick packs, which fit perfectly. But I also wanted to race in 17.5 blinky at the cotswolds club, and the C rating on the core lipos didn't give the neccesary top end. I have 4 turnigy 90c shorty packs that physically fitted into the battery slot (I'm running the carbon re-enforced tub) but I had no way of keeping it from moving about. So I decided I'd download and install google sketchup, take a few measurements of the pack & slot size, and have a go at designing something to keep the pack secure in the chassis. It went rather well at the first attempt! Very satisfying! I'm planning on seeing if I can get a 16 year old car to compete with the modern machinery I'm also planning on restoring my super astute shortly.
  19. Can anyone recomment a 2s Lipo for an M03 with bullet connectors that fit into the top of the back? I've been using my hardcase stick packs in racing but recently two packs have been damaged and will no longer charge. Because the wires come out the end of the battery, they're liable to get bashed when racing. The main power wires have lost their protective sheath so I'll need to repair them properly before they can be run again, but worse, the balance wires have broken away from the electrodes inside so the packs won't balance. I'll have to try to resolder them without damaging the cells. Years ago, most M03 racers used to use a rounded stick pack with bullet connectors that fitted from the top, keeping them out of harms way. This would be perfect, not only for M03s but also many other vintage Tamiyas where a LiPo stick pack doesn't quite want to fit properly, or where the wires have to be badly kinked to squeeze them in. But in all my searching, I can't find any like that any more. Are they still available? Any other advice for racing an M03 with LiPos? We're not allowed to modify the chassis to fit square packs and we're not allowed to use soft-case LiPos.
  20. So my 14.4v Clod/TXT Hybrid has spent the last few years in pieces after breaking yet more ball ends, and since I've thrown out all my dodgy old NiMH packs I've had nothing to power it anyway, as I don't fancy discharging my faithful lipos and ruining them. I really need a big-wheel truck back in my life again, so this winter will involve rebuilding it from the ground up, junking the overweight TXT chassis in favour of something lean, leaving plenty of space low-down for a 4s lipo (or two 2s lipos). I've got a new set of Traxxas Titan motors to go right in (reverse-timed motor is awesome!) but what I don't have is a lipo-ready speed controller. I don't really want to blow a month's wages on something crazy, I don't need all sorts of advanced features - all I need is dual motor outputs, lipo cutoff and up to 4s power. The standard Traxxas EVX2 is probably perfect but UK prices are high - although I could consider importing from the US, some sellers seem to be breaking them out of new models for less than half UK prices. Anything else worth considering? Thanks
  21. Hello Hello Hello, Hi, Ok I have just decided to build a second Tamiya model car and following on from my Lunch box (which has had a lot of mods), I have decided that I want SPEED... Krazy speed... So the plan is go nuts! I reckon up the voltage, start with a camel hump NIMH (yeah 11.1v LIPO would be sweet but expensive) probberly 8.4v or 9.6v mixed with a quicker brushed motor 14t Losi motor if it can handle the volts. An Etronix probe ESC could handle 8.4v and shouldn't mind a Losi motor. Another plus is both are cheaper then standard Tamiya 27t stuff. Well maybe not. Shocks, I may just see what I can get out of the Tamiya CVA's but will have to be firmer for roads, also I have some lunch box springs going spare. great if you want very hard suspension on CVA's. Obviously need a 2.4 Ghz radio but that's a must on any car in my opinion and a Mr T driver. Tyres.... Ok I'll get back to you on tyres. This could take awhile as I do have a real car to keep on the road and a GF to keep happy, shall be an on going thread, if any one has any ideas, advice or just wants to see how things are going please post away. Ando
  22. I hope someone can help, I went to my local rc club recently, and they had a micro car race going on. So I thought it was time to unleash the gb01 frog and gb03 hotshot. They've both got aeration dampers and some other trick bits, but they are slow! Now I've gone the brushless lipo route with nearly every other car I have, and I want to try the same with these. I reckon the ezrun 18t or 12t is the set up for me, although the 12t might be too much?!? I'm also struggling finding a lipo to fit the battery bay. Can anyone help? It needs to be 100mm x 32mm x17mm. Many thanks in advance
  23. Hi everyone, So 29 years after my parents purchased a Tamiya Hornet and so very badly wanting a Fox, I finally have one. Its in pretty ordinary shape, could have found a better car I'm sure but it came with the box and most of the original packaging. Now for the rebuild. Its not destined for the shelf, its not going to be rebuilt strictly from original 1985 release parts, probably 58577 bits to be honest. I've purchased a re-re Wild One for my daughter whos shown a love for RC so It will only be a weekend runner. I dont care about breaking stuff, i'l just fix it. So, I've ordered a truck load of new parts, all tree's, parts and screw bag as well as heaps of alloy and upgrade parts such as a Thorpe ball diff. Now for my questions, and bear with me cause its been 30 years since I played with a Tamyia. Lipo, brushless, 2.4ghz radios etc werent around in my time. 1. The upgraded Thorpe diff should handle more power but do I go with a traditional brushed motor or step up to a brushless system? and if so any recommendations on a kv? or If I stick with tradition how may turn motor? What are the better motor esc combos in both options. There's plenty of combos (motor/esc) around the $150 AUD mark but whats worthwhile and what will likely go up in smoke. 2./ A lot of esc's these days are forced cooled, any recommendations of cooling mods given the Fox's closed body design? 3./ To go lipo or not? I guess the power system needs to match the drive system. I'm chasing more torque and power increases and looking for more run-time from whatever system employed. 4./ Is there a decent charger capable of charging multiple battery types? So in closing, I'm looking to build a quick, reliable Fox with decent run-time. Lastly, a quality dependable radio and receiver combo. Thanks in advance guys, I'll post progression photos as parts start to arrive and its rebuilt. Cheer Daniel.
  24. I hope someone can help. After much deliberation I took the plunge and bought a used topforce. I'm going to do a full strip and rebuild, and run it with a brushless set up and 2s lipo. Has anyone got any suggestions for the battery tray fittings to get the lipo in. my current lipo dimensions are 136x45x22mm, so it's just a smidgen too long for the standard battery end bars. Many thanks
  25. Hi everyone, I'm hoping someone with some more experience that I can help with my inquiry.... I have recently put together a new Tamiya Wild One re-issue and need some help finding a lipo battery pack that will fit into the standard battery compartment. I tried this model: RC Turnigy 4000mAh 2S 30C Lipo Pack .... but it was too big. Can anyone please advise what will fit without modification and provide similar (or more) power and run time? Or is there a modification that WIld One owners are performing to accommodate lipos? Any help is appreciated it advance.
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