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Found 17 results

  1. Hi all, I've just completed spraying 6 coats of Tamiya TS (41, coral blue) onto my Lunch Box (see pics below). FYI I waited 24 hours between each coat of paint. I understand that I should now let it "cure" for 7 days before applying stickers and clear coat? My intentions are: after curing, I will apply THESE stickers (Mystery Machine, vinyl) followed by two cans (approx 6 total coats) of TS-80 Clear Flat Spray. My understanding is that I will need plenty of clear-coat to smooth over the edges of these stickers (which are thicker than the stock Lunchbox decals provided by Tamiya). I'm also going for a matte look, which is why I opted for the TS-80, and why I will not be sanding my paintjob prior to spraying on the clear coat. Nonetheless, I'm curious to hear your tips about what to do PRE-clear coat, i.e. I recall someone suggesting washing the paint after curing with dish soap (I suppose to wash off all the paint dust? Up until now I've only used a paper towel and compressed air between each coat). In another thread, someone else wrote: What does "flash out" mean exactly? And how long is too long before the clear coat fails to "adhere chemically" to the paint? And in another thread, this user wrote: Why did this happen? And how to prevent it? Should I be concerned about the TS-80 Clear Flat Spray eating these vinyl stickers? Thanks in advance, I really appreciate everyone's feedback!
  2. I hope I don't sound like a complete idiot for asking this (because I'm sure the Tamiya designers/engineers put these here for a purpose), but nonetheless would it be okay if I covered up all those holes scattered around the Lunch Box (and Pumpkin) chassis? In addition to the sizeable circular hole in the bottom-middle of the chassis (which is centered directly above the battery compartment) there are about a dozen other little holes that I can't find any use for. See my attached pic where I have circled these (I'm not including the suspension holes, the on/off switch space, the servo space, or the gap for the engine wires, and I understand that at least one of these are for the antenna). I'm asking because I want to waterproof and sand-proof the chassis as much as possible as I will primarily be driving my Lunchbox at the beach and in sand dunes. As for the actual covering up, I was thinking of using a hot glue gun and/or duct tape. Other suggestions appreciated!
  3. So I'm on my first-ever Tamiya RC build (Lunch Box), and I've done all my research about how to properly primer and paint using TS spray-can paints (washing and sanding first, heating up the can, etc), and then today I begin the primer process (Tamiya-brand white fine surface primer for plastic), starting with this kit's stock deep-dish wheels...but none of the spray goes beyond the outter-most lips of the rim! Being sure to keep about 8 inches distance, and using light dusting strokes, I tried all sorts of angles (horizontal, vertical, diagonal, top-down), and some of the spray does hit the insides of the wheels for about 1-2 centimeter down, but absolutely no primer is hitting the very backs of the wheels' interior (where the holes are). It seems that the only way I could possibly get spray primer/paint in that deep is to hold the can's nozzle directly inside the wheel and blast it - which of course would cause it to become very thick and muck up. I've read that dye is an option (but since these wheels come yellow, and I want to color them TS-22 light-green, it might not work well), or I guess I could paint by hand with a brush. But I'd really love to hear and learn from anyone who has successfully spray-painted (airbrush not an option) their Lunchy wheels (or Midnight Pumpkin, since they seem to be the exact same wheels). PHOTOS ATTACHED Thanks!!! (I'm new here, please be gentle ;)
  4. Dear all, Just finally bought a Metallic edition Midnight Pumpkin 1/12 and is on the way here. Bought a set of Yeah Racing ptfe ball bearings too. Have tried searching for advice here and elsewhere but as this is my 1st CW-01 (i do have a couple of tt02 and tt02b) i am quite overwhelmed by the amount of new information to digest. I have read that they are weak points in this chassis and certain upgrades or mods are used. Question: 1. What servo type should i be using? I have a currently 9kg servo but i did read somewhere that a strong servo can cause breakages. 2. Silver can or torque tuned motor since i have both? 3. ESC - quicrun 1060 or tble02 or tble04 or others? 4. What are the recommended upgrades or mods? I have no 3D printer so any diy options are highly preferable. 5. Shock advice? Clueless on this. Can the exisitng tt02 and tt02b oil shocks be used? Thamk you all in advance for your help!
  5. An interesting chassis announced recently by Tamiya: the Lunch Box Mini on the SW-01 chassis. The link is Tamiyablog's; the chassis was also mentioned earlier on this site by TC's Mokei Kagaku, and on his Facebook page. From Tamiyablog: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Suggested retail price in Japan: approx. ¥ 10600 Expected release date in Japan: July 2019 ★ Condensed various mechanisms in a compact new design chassis that fits in both hands of adults ★ Uses an upper arm that works in conjunction with the steering wheel. Reduce the roll of the body at the time of cornering, reduce the fall. ★ The chassis is a gear drive 4WD that transmits the power of the motor located in the center to the front and rear wheels with a gear. ★ The body reproduces the popular Lunch Box in polycarbonate. Adoption of magnet type one-touch body mount makes it easy to attach and remove the body. ★ It can run with four AA batteries. ★ Upgrade to the 4WS (four-wheel steering) specification is possible simply by installing the “Upper Connect Bar (provisional name)” scheduled to be released as an optional part. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ As part of the "Star Unit" line, it is likely going to be quite a basic chassis, yet the technical details and the involvement of some sort of Lunch Box might make it intriguing...
  6. Hi. I just broke part P2 that joins the front steering to the servo - and wondered if I can use the P3 part as an alternative. It has an additional kink in it - so I assume it holds the steering in a slightly different position (see photo). Do people know if it is designed for a different model that uses the same sprue? Thanks
  7. Hi all, nothing special about this build but I am keen to share my experience with the 505210 CVA shocks and my thoughts om them and the ideal eyelets to get the ideal ride height. Basic assembly done.. nothing special. In photo #1 I have decided to ignore the instructions and keep that retaining screw in there. It may actually prevent the trans from slapping when hitting the gas. I am aware of the ampro chassis brace or 5th shock mod but in no great rush to do either. I had this kit a couple years ago in a Black Edition colourway with 100% stock set up. TLDR: 17.5 brushless is about the same speed. I didn't want to do anything too crazy, fearing that the 1987 gearbox may not handle it. Caution on the placement and rotation of the motor. the next increment anti-clockwise makes the wires hit the shock. A clockwise increment makes the wires hit the chassis. Below. I've chosen XT60 connectors as I'm familiar with XT90's on my other stuff and I am going to run this with my 2S shorty Lipo's via an adapter that I will make. The 3 motor wires go nicely through the rear parcel tray. The ESC is a Hobbywing Xerun 2.1 (Justock) - it belonged to my first indoor offroad 1/10 buggy and has since been superseded.
  8. Welcome to my Konghead build. I've had a love of all things Tamiya since my folks bought me and my Brother a Boomerang each in 1988/9. Ever since then I've built a dozen or so kits. Some I still have and others I've (regrettably) sold. Having been into comp crawlers and scale trucks for the last several years I've recently, once again turned my attention to Tamiya. I'm part way through a TT-02 Type S Rally Car (build thread coming), have a DT-03 ready and waiting to start, but first, the Konghead caught my eye. So, here goes. A word of warning though... I like to take a lot of pics during a build! Oh, and since I've found a lot of useful information on here, I thought I'd become a subscriber. I'm not a fan of the chrome wheels (especially for the paint job I'm thinking about), so opted for these yellow ones from JK-RC instead. Added some Schumacher truck foams that I've used in my Lunch Boxes. Thought I'd get the shocks out of the way before starting the kit. I absolutely love building Tamiya shocks. They are definitely some of the best. That's where I'm up to for now. Thanks for taking a look.
  9. I thought I'd share my experience of building my first kit.... Only 30 years late. I've posted elsewhere about finally getting the lunch box after wanting it for years. I was worried about the build, but it turned out to be brilliant fun. I thought I'd post here for anyone like me, thinking about attempting their first kit. I didn't get it right every time, and I learnt a lot along the way. My main advice is to build it slowly, read the manual a few times before you start, and enjoy the process. First the unboxing - I love that cover art:
  10. Hi - I'm hoping someone can point me towards a useful post or give advice. I wanted to slightly updgrade the stock motor and cheap servo I have on my lunch box. I want to keep brushed and NiMH for now, bit could do with a bit more grunt than the standard motor. Can anyone advise on spec for a motor and servo? I'm UK based. I was thinking the tamiya torque tuned (or equivalent) and a metal gear servo like the one I have in my comical Grasshopper. That was a Etronix 9.3kg/0.13s. Does that sound about right?
  11. Hello all, new to the group and returning to RC after a LONG absence. I just received an older Lunch Box in the mail today and in going over it, it appears the battery box for powering the receiver was removed and it is now powered off the main battery. This still has the old mechanical speed controller. Is there any benefit to getting another box to keep them separate? I know these tend to get removed to save weight. I have had vehicles with and without the extra box and personally found it troubling when the battery was draining that you could lose control of the car since the receiver was getting its power from it. It appears these can still be bought but the only ones I found are Traxxas models, will these work? Lastly, this came with an old AirTronics pistol grip controller. When I put my 3800amh battery in and turned everything on, it went haywire! The servos both went to one extreme end and twitched and moving the trigger or wheel resulted in very little movement or control. The trim adjustments did not help either. Does this sound like the radio or transmitter got damaged in shipment or something else? I wasn't sure if 3800amh is too much for this old receiver either? I don't have a spare radio, receiver, or less powerful battery at this point to check. Thanks in advance
  12. Just messing around here - I thought people might like to see the little.buddy I'm making for the full-sized lunch box. This is for my 4 year old. I got a new ray pullback monster can for a couple of quid on eBay - and am going to try to paint it up.
  13. I've only just noticed the little wire spring shocks have already broken after a few outings. It's the ones that stop the gearbox bouncing too much. I see this is a common thing - but was wondering what people found was the best alternative. I don't want to spend a huge amount. I also see that some people say it's fine to run without them. I'm happy to do a bit of DIY - but if there is an easy fix you can buy in the UK - that would be great.
  14. Just joined the club! It's no exaggeration to say I've wanted a Tamiya RC for over 30 years. My brother had a second hand Hornet when I was 7 - and I loved everything about it. I remember seeing the Vanessa's Lunch Box in the magazines and being desperate to get it - not understanding what 'kit' meant. The box art has always stuck in my head - the lettering, crazy image and all the decals. I finally bought the re-release recently - and was actually quite nervous about putting the thing together. I've not attempted something like this before - especially something that cost north of £100. I can honestly say the whole experience of building it, painting and driving the bonkers thing around has been an absolute treat. I love the fact that the steering is almost useless at speed, and it bounces like crazy on the shocks and keeps pulling wheelies. For me that adds to the feel of it being an 80s monster truck - and makes it more fun to try and wrestle into doing what you want. I spend the whole time driving it, grinning and hoping the battery doesn't run out too soon! It's fair to say that I've been hooked into the world of Tamiya RC cars...... just need the Monster Beetle to come back in stock. I went for the standard paintjob - and tried to get it as close to the box art as possible - you can see some pics below - and of the build. I actually went for the TS-34 Camel Yellow for the shell, which I think has a nicer vintage look than the bright yellow they suggest. Probably because that's how it looks on the old adverts. I did the window frames freehand, so they aren't perfect, and used some cheaper acrylics for some of the tiny detailing. A decent marker pen actually worked better for the very fine black lines around the lights. It's already thoroughly scuffed and scratched since these photos were taken, but I've accepted that is part of owning one of these. Tempted to buy another shell to keep smart. I'd be interested to know if anyone else has recently got one of these - or finally decided to buy their first proper RC.
  15. Always wanted a Lunch Box when I was younger, and I finally got one. For being my cheapest kit... I've seemed to have spent the most on it. Crazy thing is that I'm contemplating getting another one later on! Anyway here it is. Still deciding what decals, extra paint work I want to do to the body, but this is pretty much it. As it stands right now With lights on! FX10 Mod Uncompressed.... Compressed... Used a suspension arm piece from a WT-01N kit to mount the bottom of the shock. (I bought the longer WT-01 arms so I didn't use these) Electronics Hobbywing Justock XR10 ESC, Speed Passion v3 13.5T Brushless, Sanwa RX-371W Receiver, Savox 254mg steering servo, Generic lighting kit Chassis Stiffening Upper shock tower brace Rear deck brace Lower rear shock brace Forgot to add that it's also got a full ball bearing kit.
  16. Anybody know if the monster beetle wheels and tires will fit directly on the lunch box.
  17. Looking for People to join our weekend get-togethers to Race & Bash around our Tamiya Wheelie R/C trucks and cars. All Tamiya Lunchbox, Midnight Pumpkin, Montero, Wild Willy, Unimog, Black Foot, Jimney, Monster Beetle, Subaru Brat, and any other Wheelie type RCs are welcome. Let me know if you are thinking of joining us. This is a fun get together race and parking-lot hang out with Wheelie RCs. Please no modern super fast RCs. This is not that kind of race. Stock or after market motors are fine. So Far we have 9 RCs: 1 - Lunch Box (Blue) 2 - Lunch Box (Green) 3 - Midnight Pumpkin (Black) 4 - Midnight Pumpkin (Green) 5 - Midnight Pumpkin (Cherry Red) 6 - Midnight Pumpkin (Metallic) 7 - Black Foot III 8 - Bolink (LB Chassis) 9 - Unimog Wheelie A date is yet to be set but it will be on any given Sunday from noon to 4pm. Contact me....! Thanks!
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