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Found 65 results

  1. Hi all, I'm relatively new to rc kit building, my first was just last summer (Lunchbox) and had lots of fun with it. For my 2nd kit, I was originally leaning toward a Monster Beetle until I read about all the problems with its gear box. But I also read that the MIP super ball differential set might alleviate these issues, though it sounds like it still could have problems. And believe me, I'm not technically capable enough to handle constant repairs and modifications. After the Squash Van release this past winter, I thought I had found my new 2nd kit. But surprisingly, there hasn't been enough discussions about SV to convince me it's a good kit (it doesn't seem to be very popular), and it also sounds like it has tipping-over problems. All those gears also concern me. I should note here that I use my Lunch Box mostly out in the wilds (beach, dirt trails) so I'd like my 2nd rig to also be able to handle rugged and dirty terrain. So I'd like to put it to a community debate: MB or SV for a newbie's second build? Pros vs. cons for each?
  2. Hi All, I have just received a Lunch Box and should receive ReRe Egress next week for lockdown projects. Could I please get some friendly advice on the below and experiences if any? I am slightly concerned that these kits may suffer if too much power is put through them. I am used to running 2S offroad AE 6.2 & 74.1 mod class buggies @ 10.5 and 8.5t, but I don't 100% understand why you can't run that spec in a Tamiya Under the advice of some friends I have narrowed down 2 systems but not sure which one should go in which car. Both RC's will be for gentle bashing only on smooth surfaces (especially the Egress) and run on 2s Lipo power. At hand I have (A) Hobbywing XeRun 120A ESC + 17.5 brushless Surpass motor And a friend suggested that I get a simple (easy to get in my country during lockdown): (B) Hobbywing Quicrun WP-1060 + 23T Tamiya RZ motor. [brushed system] I had a black edition LBox a few years ago and ran it stock, and the speed was a little light for me so I'd be keen on getting it a little speedier. Hope you can shed some thoughts on above suitability for each of my builds. I have to admit from a aesthetic point of view, option (B) would look nicer in the Egress with less wires to manage, plus a genuine Tamiya motor too. It would make more sense for the Egress to be the faster of the two?
  3. Hey all, help required please. So I've been doing up my lunchbox, I've stripped it down and built it back up.. I've also update to an ESC and sport tuned motor. Now, before I put it all in I tested and all works fine, since putting the motor in, it spins but I get zero drive from the wheels...?? What am I doing wrong? I've been told to check the set up of the pinion, but apart from a "piece of paper' on the original instructions, I can't find any other reference. Just seems the motor doesn't engage... Any help greatly appreciated.
  4. Im repurposing this thread to keep my builds in one place, leaving the posts about my TT02B Scorcher, linking to my Terra Scorcher thread for the pics and comments for when i put it together but i dont expect there to be much more happening in that thread. My Terra Scorcher build. Hey all! A couple of days back i started a Plasma Edge 2. This is the first ever kit im building and my first hobby grade RC car since a Marui Big Bear i had back in the nineties. (Had two or three toy grade cars since) A couple of years back i got back into RC with building/flying fpv drones and foamboard planes, was good fun but ive since fallen out of that, too much repairing compared to RCing, im hoping a car will be a bit less maintenance per battery pack In an earlier thread over in Other Makes i showed off the 3d print that got me back in RC this time, after getting that together i wanted to pick up a kit. I was looking between the Plasma Edge 2 and the Neo Fighter, both look real good but since id never had a 4wd i decided on the TT02B over the DT03, even tho it cost a bit more. Following the instructions to get it together was very straight forward after looking at a couple vids in preparation and building a 3d printed 1/10 rwd buggy a little earlier. As for pics of the build process ill go with "draw a circle, draw another circle, now draw the rest of the f###ing owl" rather than spamming lots of pics that most of everyone will have no interest in seeing. I followed along the instructions, only difference from box stock was adding in ball bearings. Since getting it to the above state ive had it out for a little test drive, so happy with how it moves, even if the ground was mostly frozen except for a little patch of gravel at work. Today i properly attached the antenna holder using the top hole on the inner servo mount, added some foam to the underside of the battery hold down to prevent rattling and added little shelf where a battery voltage alarm was attached as i dont know what, if any, lipo cut off the carson dragster 70A esc has (it was included in the kit rather than the tamiya esc i was expecting). I also designed and printed 10mm extensions for the shocks to hopefully give a bit more ground clearance. Sadly they turned out to be a bust as the arms will not go more than a mm or two lower. Was expecting them to be able to go down at least 10mm since they go up more than that but the cups for the drive axles hit the arms just slightly below horizontal. To get a bit more clearance ive put in an order for some 96mm tires on 12mm hex rims, its not a huge step up so hopefully ill be fine without changing the gearing, the rims should be large enough that they will fit over the axle carriers, offset wasnt specified but in case the included rims arent good ill just 3d print my own to fit. Until the new wheels (and some other random bits) arrive i figure im going to paint the body shell, from my tabletop mini hobby i have an assortment of acrylics and an airbrush, seeing that the proline body colors are water based i feel relatively sure they are also acrylics so i think ill be fine with what i already have. Im having a hard time deciding on how id want to paint it tho, the strongest thought i have is red because "Red Wunz Go Fasta", i think it would look nice with the visible black parts of the chassi, white shocks and black/white/blue/yellow of the decals. Will update upon more progress.
  5. A couple of weeks ago I bought my first RC car. It was one that I used to drool over as a lad in the toy section of my mum's catalogue but we could never afford one. That was the venerable Hornet. I had a random recommendation for a video of it on my YouTube homepage and it bought it all back to me. So I bought one and put it together in a couple of days over a weekend. I absolutely loved the build and it was incredibly satisfying getting to the end of it and having a working model to bash around the garden. I enjoyed it so much that I had ordered ordered the other classic that I have always wanted, the Lunchbox, before I had even finished the Hornet. This one got built in the just a day and boy does it not disappoint in the fun stakes - what an absolute hooligan of a car! I enjoyed those two so much that I fancied doing something a bit more sophisticated and more modern, so I got myself one last model to build and that was the TT-02BR. That one took me around two and a half days to build and another day to paint and I now have something to fettle with and upgrade as time goes on. Thank you to the people who have answered my newbie questions in the latest build. I have so much to learn and it is all a bit baffling at times. I'm sure that I will be speaking this foreign language fluently in no time. Anyway, I just wanted to share my excitement for this new hobby and I guess I need to add a picture of my new babies, so here they are in the garden this evening. The Hornet and Lunchbox are both stock and the TT-02BR has the Tamiya aluminium motor mount and a Super Stock BZ motor in it. I'm waiting on the Tamiya aluminium motor heat sink to arrive too. Running on 7.2 NiMH because I'm too scared of LiPo batteries right now 🤣
  6. I hope I don't sound like a complete idiot for asking this (because I'm sure the Tamiya designers/engineers put these here for a purpose), but nonetheless would it be okay if I covered up all those holes scattered around the Lunch Box (and Pumpkin) chassis? In addition to the sizeable circular hole in the bottom-middle of the chassis (which is centered directly above the battery compartment) there are about a dozen other little holes that I can't find any use for. See my attached pic where I have circled these (I'm not including the suspension holes, the on/off switch space, the servo space, or the gap for the engine wires, and I understand that at least one of these are for the antenna). I'm asking because I want to waterproof and sand-proof the chassis as much as possible as I will primarily be driving my Lunchbox at the beach and in sand dunes. As for the actual covering up, I was thinking of using a hot glue gun and/or duct tape. Other suggestions appreciated!
  7. So I'm on my first-ever Tamiya RC build (Lunch Box), and I've done all my research about how to properly primer and paint using TS spray-can paints (washing and sanding first, heating up the can, etc), and then today I begin the primer process (Tamiya-brand white fine surface primer for plastic), starting with this kit's stock deep-dish wheels...but none of the spray goes beyond the outter-most lips of the rim! Being sure to keep about 8 inches distance, and using light dusting strokes, I tried all sorts of angles (horizontal, vertical, diagonal, top-down), and some of the spray does hit the insides of the wheels for about 1-2 centimeter down, but absolutely no primer is hitting the very backs of the wheels' interior (where the holes are). It seems that the only way I could possibly get spray primer/paint in that deep is to hold the can's nozzle directly inside the wheel and blast it - which of course would cause it to become very thick and muck up. I've read that dye is an option (but since these wheels come yellow, and I want to color them TS-22 light-green, it might not work well), or I guess I could paint by hand with a brush. But I'd really love to hear and learn from anyone who has successfully spray-painted (airbrush not an option) their Lunchy wheels (or Midnight Pumpkin, since they seem to be the exact same wheels). PHOTOS ATTACHED Thanks!!! (I'm new here, please be gentle ;)
  8. Dear all, Just finally bought a Metallic edition Midnight Pumpkin 1/12 and is on the way here. Bought a set of Yeah Racing ptfe ball bearings too. Have tried searching for advice here and elsewhere but as this is my 1st CW-01 (i do have a couple of tt02 and tt02b) i am quite overwhelmed by the amount of new information to digest. I have read that they are weak points in this chassis and certain upgrades or mods are used. Question: 1. What servo type should i be using? I have a currently 9kg servo but i did read somewhere that a strong servo can cause breakages. 2. Silver can or torque tuned motor since i have both? 3. ESC - quicrun 1060 or tble02 or tble04 or others? 4. What are the recommended upgrades or mods? I have no 3D printer so any diy options are highly preferable. 5. Shock advice? Clueless on this. Can the exisitng tt02 and tt02b oil shocks be used? Thamk you all in advance for your help!
  9. An interesting chassis announced recently by Tamiya: the Lunch Box Mini on the SW-01 chassis. The link is Tamiyablog's; the chassis was also mentioned earlier on this site by TC's Mokei Kagaku, and on his Facebook page. From Tamiyablog: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Suggested retail price in Japan: approx. ¥ 10600 Expected release date in Japan: July 2019 ★ Condensed various mechanisms in a compact new design chassis that fits in both hands of adults ★ Uses an upper arm that works in conjunction with the steering wheel. Reduce the roll of the body at the time of cornering, reduce the fall. ★ The chassis is a gear drive 4WD that transmits the power of the motor located in the center to the front and rear wheels with a gear. ★ The body reproduces the popular Lunch Box in polycarbonate. Adoption of magnet type one-touch body mount makes it easy to attach and remove the body. ★ It can run with four AA batteries. ★ Upgrade to the 4WS (four-wheel steering) specification is possible simply by installing the “Upper Connect Bar (provisional name)” scheduled to be released as an optional part. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ As part of the "Star Unit" line, it is likely going to be quite a basic chassis, yet the technical details and the involvement of some sort of Lunch Box might make it intriguing...
  10. Hi. I just broke part P2 that joins the front steering to the servo - and wondered if I can use the P3 part as an alternative. It has an additional kink in it - so I assume it holds the steering in a slightly different position (see photo). Do people know if it is designed for a different model that uses the same sprue? Thanks
  11. Hi all, thought I'd share a recent beach run with the Lunchbox. With some mods the Lunchbox can handle quite well: And some at regular speed:
  12. I thought I'd share my experience of building my first kit.... Only 30 years late. I've posted elsewhere about finally getting the lunch box after wanting it for years. I was worried about the build, but it turned out to be brilliant fun. I thought I'd post here for anyone like me, thinking about attempting their first kit. I didn't get it right every time, and I learnt a lot along the way. My main advice is to build it slowly, read the manual a few times before you start, and enjoy the process. First the unboxing - I love that cover art:
  13. Like many other people on the forum and as a child of the 70s and 80s, the past year lockdown has brought about a time to reflect and be nostalgic towards better and happier days. And again like so many, having had a more or less 30+ year gap since the last time I dabbled properly in RC (aside from a short foray with a TL-01 and TA04 Pro around the time of the millennium), the lockdown has provided an opportunity to stay home and turn back the clock with some kit building. I was lucky enough to be into RC at the height of the golden age of Tamiya. But like many here, as a child at the time with relatively meagre pocket money, my purchasing power (after much saving) only extended to a Falcon bought from the long since gone chain of UK model shop Beatties . A classic bundle, the kit came with the useless trickle charger that took forever to charge Tamiya 1200 packs, the ubiquitous ACOMS servos / transmitter / receiver and of course the obligatory Beatties black and yellow RC bag that offered little protection to the prized possession in side. But it was wonderful thing! The Falcon fared as well as you’d expect with broken bathtubs, cracked uprights and lost dog bones – all of which I tried to repair with superglue, sticky tape and things that I found in my father’s shed just to keep it on the road. But, between my friends and I, we were able to swap around amongst us Hornets, Grasshoppers, Superchamps and Frogs – all in various states of disrepair. But, as much time as we spent running our cars, we spent even more time flicking thought the pages of Tamiya guidebooks and longing and lusting after unobtainable and unaffordable hop-ups, Bruisers, Avantes, Astutes and much more. So, having fast forward three decades and now having a bit more pocket money to play with so to speak, when the Tamiya nostalgia kick came I decided that I’d try to set myself a challenge. I decided that I wanted to try to buy and build new kits (NIB or Re-re) that I thought best captured the spirit of Tamiya, and to try to fulfil a few unachieved childhood dreams. I initially set a challenge of picking two cars to buy and build that I thought would kill a little bit of downtime in-between work, family and life. But, thanks to the continuing pandemic lockdown and the fact that I’m now sucked in again to RC as I was when a child, I’m now 4 new build cars in and contemplating a 5th. More of that later….. So, after a 35 year lust from watching the grainy Tamiya promo video of a blue truck spinning around the beach - my first purchase was a Bruiser. As most know who’ve owned and built one, it was a very rewarding exercise. A surprisingly complex process – especially getting the body right - I did wonder what state I would have made of the build as a 10 year old kid. I built it as stock – but on completion decided to venture into the world of brushless and lipos (which is a whole new world to me) and took a punt on a 4300kv motor and 80amp ESC. I should say at this point that I had already decided that anything I build should be fully operational – but - would only ever be shelf queens (a new term I was rapidly learning!). I added a lighting kit from Banggood and spent an age painting and finishing to the best I could and I was pretty pleased with the result. It was at this point that I realised again the importance of the box art and livery. There are just some body shells and paint jobs that are timeless icons of RC. I strongly argue that the Bruiser is one of them and this got me thinking. The liveries of some of Tamiya’s cars are so entrenched in the companies ethos and identity that the two things go hand in hand. Adding to my challenge I decided my car selection should also be representative of the idea of iconic livery. So – this in mind, I resolved that my next build would be a Sandscorcher. You may disagree with this, but in my opinion it is indeed truly an icon. The little blue and white VW I believe was pretty instrumental in kicking off Tamiya popularity in the early 80s. I decided that I wanted to build this classic trying to bring in some subtle modern upgrades and interventions but without ruining the charm and spirit of the original. With my new found knowledge of brushless, I binned the silver can and fitted a Tamiya TBLM-02S 10.5T brushless (….in a Scorcher….. I know….). To make the job neat, I bought the 3d printed brushless motor end cap from ‘Scorched Parts’, along with their inner fenders and servo saver. Like the Bruiser, I fitted a lighting kit and roof rack (inspired by Bob on his Hobby Concepts Youtube channel). I know there are many out there who customise the Scorcher far more than I, but I like the charm and character of the SRB chassis, the leaky shocks and clear plastic inner shell. Similar as the Bruiser, the metal components and design of the Sandscorcher whilst rudimentary, are beautifully engineered. Keeping the theme of “spirit of Tamiya” and “iconic livery”, my next decision was pretty straightforward - The Lunchbox. I won’t lie – a decision partly influenced by my kids who had been showing an interest in my efforts, it seemed a no brainer to get them involved. To me, the lunchbox is the personification of 80’s Tamiya fun. I remember at the time thinking that it was cooler to have the Falcon than the Lunchie, but secretly perhaps realising it wasn’t. I actually bought two kits – one each for my 11 and 8 year old. You’d be unsurprised to know that building two kits at the same time with two young children who have the attention span of a goldfish, is as stressful as you’d imagine. But, despite a few hiccups here and there (a few screws not in straight, omitted bearings etc…..), the classic yellow van turned out great. As did its twin with Scooby Doo livery. I’ve so far managed to keep the box art car as a shelf queen I’m pleased to say, but it might be that I have to build a third one as a runner…. Anyway, inevitably, the elephant in the classic Tamiya car show room had to be addressed. It couldn’t be put off anymore. My justification of the prolongation of lockdown meant that after 32 years of waiting, Santa finally delivered at Christmas an Avante. I don’t actually think there is much to say about it. No introduction or explanation needed. Spirit of Tamiya? Check. Iconic livery? Check. Possibly the car that most perfectly capture what Tamiya is all about? Maybe. In my mind yes, but you may no doubt think differently. But, I just give a knowing wink to the forum and all those of my similar age, or those who have built and / or owned an Avante. Over engineered and over designed like little else Tamiya has ever done before or since, it didn’t disappoint I have to say and will sit as pride and joy for me to look at. So, by now, my budget is blown. Tamiya has me hooked like a school boy once again but I’ve had to draw a line before I head into an RC money pit abyss. Indeed as I write at the beginning of 2021, the new list of cars due to be released by Tamiya has me flicking through the pre-order websites. But, this is the question to you (assuming you’ve got this far in my story….), given my brief of “Spirit of Tamiya” and “Iconic Livery”, and given the 4 cars I’ve bought and built so far – what would your final 5ht selection be? What new kit / re-re would you suggest I buy to complete my story? But indeed, if you had to pick 5 cars in response to my challenge – what would you go for? I very much look forward to hearing your thoughts and wish you happy building.
  14. Picked up a vintage lunchbox on eBay a few weeks ago. Fixed it up but steering is all over the place. Knowing what a difference Kimborough servo savers made on my other cars I want to get a replacement. Before I do though does anyone have any advice on whether to get something high torque or bigger than the tamiya item? Or should I just get a Kimborough 114 and have done with it? Cheers!
  15. The Lunchbox and Midnight Pumpkin are both much loved Tamiya RCs, sharing the same chassis they are pretty iconic cars with a ton of nice mods available for them. There is a lot of great information about these mods all over the web but nowhere (that I've come across) is there one neat and tidy resource for people to refer to. Well after chatting with TC Forum user 'skip665' we've decided to develop one great thread on TamiyaClub that has all of this information in it. I intend to keep all the information at the top of the thread, updating it as people post info along the way. The aim is to list, detail and generally point people in the right direction of all the great 'easy to do' mods on these cars. I'm going to try and steer clear of advanced stuff (put your CNC machines away guys) as I want these to be accessible to the average hobbyist. First of all, let me thank the following companies who have agreed for me to use their images and link to their products (i'll keep adding to the list as I hear back from more companies). I'll also refrain from posting images of products where I don't have direct permission from the owners of said images. In these cases I'll substitute with 'real life' images of TC members cars who have given me permission to use their images. Miniature Manufacturing - Producer of Alloy Upgrades (make sure you email them when placing an order as they're having issues with their site at present) Team CRP - The only place to buy the legendary FX10 Front arm Kits RCbearings.co.uk - Supplier of pretty much any RC Bearing you could want JunFac.com - More Alloy goodness! Index 1. Body 2. Chassis/Drivetrain 3. Front Suspension 4. Rear Suspension 5. Motor 6. Steering 1. Body Lunchbox Alloy Body Mounts Available here: Lunchbox Alloy Body Mounts Pumpkin Alloy Body Mounts Available here: Pumpkin Alloy Body Mounts 2. Chassis/Drivetrain Full bearing kit Available here: Full Bearing Kit Alloy Rear Wheel Hub Mounts (Pair) Available here: Alloy Rear Wheel Hub Mounts (Pair) 2.2" Foam Tyre Inserts Available here: Foam Tyre Inserts 3. Front Suspension Alloy front suspension mounts (for standard shocks) Available Here: Alloy front suspension mounts (for standard shocks) Oil Filled Shock Absorbers Most popular ones are Ansmann 75mm or 85mm (or a combination of the two) but most oil shocks will be fine 'AWAITING IMAGE' Available here: Oil Filled Shock Absorbers CRP FX-10 Front Suspension Arms Available here: CRP FX-10 Front Suspension Arms Also recommended is the Hardware Kit Available here: Hardware Kit 4. Rear Suspension Alloy Rear Suspension Mounts (for standard shocks) Available here: Alloy Rear Suspension Mounts (for standard shocks) 3rd or 5th Shock mod (Depending on what you prefer to call it) Best thing I can do here is link to these YouTube videos http://youtu.be/m2qK6gGu2Kc http://youtu.be/OOpkNXROwyw Junfac Adjustable Alloy Rear Shock Mounts Available here: Junfac Adjustable Alloy Rear Shock Mounts 5. Motor Lunchbox Alloy Motor Heatsink Available here: Lunchbox Alloy Motor Heatsink Midnight Pumpkin Alloy Motor Heatsink Available here: Midnight Pumpkin Alloy Motor Heatsink 6. Steering Junfac Alloy Steering Knuckles Available here: Junfac Alloy Steering Knuckles Centred Steering Servo 'AWAITING IMAGE' 'AWAITING INSTRUCTIONS'
  16. So I got into RC as an adult earlier in the year partly because of the lockdown and partly because other acquaintances were buying RC cars. I had a Super Sabre QD as a nipper but always wanted a proper kit, sadly Tamiya have so far not rere'ed it. I built a Terra Scorcher that did get released just as I started spending wallet-unhealthy amounts of time looking at kits. The problem with buggies though is that they need a fairly smooth surface to run on. At the end of the day, a 2cm diameter piece of gravel to your RC car would be like driving into a breeze block in your car. So yeah, I needed a monster truck. I remember someone had a Mud Blaster at the club we went to for a few months with our QD's in Deal, Kent when I must have been about ten? Again, like the SS they're not readily available, but I'd also heard bad things about the Monster Beetles gearbox being incredibly fragile. As I wasn't racing and it was just for a bit of fun I started looking at Lunchboxes. During lockdown my Mrs and I had been watching the TV series Stranger Things, so when I saw a sticker kit replicating the vans from the show I got my credit card out and bought a Lunchie from Fusion Hobbies and almost the same again in hop up bits. And I thought motorbike racing was expensive...* So yeah, it's a Lunchbox, but with some additions to the build. Firstly was bearings, secondly a Sport Tuned motor. The next addition was a four part kit from an ebay seller called chr15-w and it's essentially four bits of threaded rod on eyelet adjusters and the required nuts/bolts/pivots. It braces the top of the front shocks, each rear shock top pivot to the axel dropout and a fixed fifth shock. I'm really impressed with the simplicity but structural integrity it gives everything, especially for the price. I also bought some Absima shocks to replace the pogo sticks the kit comes with. I'm very impressed with them, all four seem to have a similar level of rebound damping in them and were leak free through the post. From the same vendor as the other braces I bough one for the wheelie bar to stop it from damaging the gearbox case.
  17. Just messing around here - I thought people might like to see the little.buddy I'm making for the full-sized lunch box. This is for my 4 year old. I got a new ray pullback monster can for a couple of quid on eBay - and am going to try to paint it up.
  18. Hello all, can anyone recommend the best place to find aluminium upgrades for a lunchbox. Its more for show than performance. Thanks DavidG
  19. I've only just noticed the little wire spring shocks have already broken after a few outings. It's the ones that stop the gearbox bouncing too much. I see this is a common thing - but was wondering what people found was the best alternative. I don't want to spend a huge amount. I also see that some people say it's fine to run without them. I'm happy to do a bit of DIY - but if there is an easy fix you can buy in the UK - that would be great.
  20. Just joined the club! It's no exaggeration to say I've wanted a Tamiya RC for over 30 years. My brother had a second hand Hornet when I was 7 - and I loved everything about it. I remember seeing the Vanessa's Lunch Box in the magazines and being desperate to get it - not understanding what 'kit' meant. The box art has always stuck in my head - the lettering, crazy image and all the decals. I finally bought the re-release recently - and was actually quite nervous about putting the thing together. I've not attempted something like this before - especially something that cost north of £100. I can honestly say the whole experience of building it, painting and driving the bonkers thing around has been an absolute treat. I love the fact that the steering is almost useless at speed, and it bounces like crazy on the shocks and keeps pulling wheelies. For me that adds to the feel of it being an 80s monster truck - and makes it more fun to try and wrestle into doing what you want. I spend the whole time driving it, grinning and hoping the battery doesn't run out too soon! It's fair to say that I've been hooked into the world of Tamiya RC cars...... just need the Monster Beetle to come back in stock. I went for the standard paintjob - and tried to get it as close to the box art as possible - you can see some pics below - and of the build. I actually went for the TS-34 Camel Yellow for the shell, which I think has a nicer vintage look than the bright yellow they suggest. Probably because that's how it looks on the old adverts. I did the window frames freehand, so they aren't perfect, and used some cheaper acrylics for some of the tiny detailing. A decent marker pen actually worked better for the very fine black lines around the lights. It's already thoroughly scuffed and scratched since these photos were taken, but I've accepted that is part of owning one of these. Tempted to buy another shell to keep smart. I'd be interested to know if anyone else has recently got one of these - or finally decided to buy their first proper RC.
  21. OK so I realize this would be easier to explain if I had some pics to post, but I'm at work and don't at the moment. But I think some of you might get what I mean, have experience with this particular issue, etc. My Lunchbox is too yellow, or too light yellow, for my taste. I sprayed it with the called-for TS-16 but the hue of it just isn't the rich orange-tinged color that looks right to me. Why?? Is there some undercoat that needs to go down first to get the right color temperature? I'm thinking of peeling the decals, repriming and spraying it... but not if it means the same result. Anyone have any idea what I'm talking about, LOL?
  22. Scaler LB? ’70s Rock Van Clear Body for 12.3" (313mm) Wheelbase Scale Crawlers - SKU: 3552-00 ($43.95) ’70s Rock Van Tough-Color (Black) Body for 12.3" (313mm) Wheelbase Scale Crawlers - SKU: 3552-18 ($51.95)
  23. I recently required a near mint original lunchbox and paid $30 for it on let go. Has original manual speed control in mint shape. Has chrome wheels. The body is a light pearl purple with DARE logo and says To Keep Cops Off Donuts. There are some light cracks and the a frame pillar on drivers side is missing. I can fix it with a mold, crazy glue and baking soda. Has anyone seen this body before. It looks factory. Also thinking of selling after I fix the body. What do you think it’s worth?
  24. Recently saved a few £ by making foams for the boys Lunchboxes. Only foams I could find were £9.99 a set and needed 2 sets. That's before tyres and wheels. Got 2 sheets of upholstery foam on eBay for £4 posted. Enough to do two sets of lunchbox wheels on one sheet. Might do the Clod as well but the tyres are a lot harder on that so it doesn't need them as bad. You can cut this with a sharp Stanley or one of those extending snap off blades. I taped the one in the pic but don't tape them now for the car. Cut a strip just over 12inches long by 2inches wide. Foam is 1 inch thick. Stuff it in, I don't tape it, just cut it a bit long and stuff it in. Less tyre wander, stiffer sidewall. Slightly better handling.
  25. The question is: what models share the same chassis at the Lunchbox and Midnight Pumpkin? I think the Montero(?) does, but is there anything else? Also the chrome Midnight Pumpkin, what's the best way to protect the finish? Has anyone ever spray lacquered it? The reason I ask, I am slowly pulling out my rc stuff that I have collected over the last 10 years or so and trying to organise it. Today's job was to sort my Lunchbox and Hornet parts, which I'd kinda lumped together as they share some of the same parts. So this is what I have: There is one complete Grasshopper A damage Grasshopper body which I will attempt to repair, and plus I have the parts for a rolling chassis. There are 2 complete Hornets (1 original and one Re Re) and enough parts to make 1 more complete car and 1 to just make a complete chassis which I might revert one back to a Sand Scorcher body onto the hornet chassis. The chassis has been modified anyway. 2 complete lunchbox chassis, one will be for a chrome Midnight Pumpkin body I got for Christmas, I think around 2012. And over the years I collected bits and pieces to make a chassis to go with it, and pretty much ended with this 1 lunchbox chassis which I think I can make from the leftover hornet parts. So that means I have two lunchbox rolling chassis that will need bodies for. I'm hoping for something different, so send me you suggestions! Now for the pics, these are all the parts I got together. Midnight Pumpkin body, I want to build and drive but I don't want to scratch it Any suggestion on maybe protecting it with a spray lacquer or other ideas? And since I'll have plenty of time, I might as well have a go at fixing this. Once I weld what is there back together, its only one rear corner that is missing.
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