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Found 13 results

  1. Currently working on Tamiya M05RA chassis,I was thinking why not let this front-wheel drive car have a handbrake? This handbrake system allows the M05ra to perform a handbrake turn and improve braking efficiency.Using two servos to control the brakes separately can achieve mixed control with steering and reduce understeer.Use TPU material as brake pads to prevent damage to the wheel hub。
  2. The source of inspiration is Honda cr-x si rally 1985 HongKong-Beijing rally. I added some print details,headlights and fenders to the original CR-X body. The chassis has also been adjusted,using a longer 60mm damper and increasing the suspension stroke. New handbrake system has been added to allow the car to make a handbrake turn and better braking performance.
  3. I figured I'd make a build thread for my first kit, I have experience restoring and repairing RCs, but I've never built a kit. I chose an M05 both due to its low cost, previous experience with a few M-chassis, and because they're just fun drivers. Of course, a day later Tamiya more or less announced the cancelation of the chassis, and a nice already built used example of what I'm building popped up on ebay. My plan is to stick close to the book, Im new to kits, I shouldn't start breaking rules before I know them. But the real question is, will I build another kit after this one? The only hop ups that I will be using are RA uprights (though I will test the chassis in low mode), bearings, torque tuned motor, and a set of 50mm dampers from a previous project. For car park bashing I have little need for much more. I did consider an aluminum motor mount but I couldn't find any. As of this writing the chassis is 80% done, the weather will more or less dictate when I get to the body. I was short just a few self-tapper screws but thankfully I have spares. I didn't take many pictures but I will show the chassis once its ready for testing, and of course the body when its completed.
  4. "Half and Half" is what I've nicknamed Tamiyas more eccentric on-road chassis designs, that being the plastic "brick" designs that double as the transmission. I've mentioned before that the design is a bit worrisome for future repairs, but at the same time I've found it interesting from a design standpoint compared to the more recent tub TT designs. Is there any real benefit of the old "half and half" design over todays tub designs? I don't think that I've seen any other RC company attempt a similar design. I thought about this as I worked on an ECX 4WD and noticed just how similar it and about a dozen other modern 4WD RC chassis look.
  5. Recently started a new build. A Tamiya Fiat 1000 Abarth TCR Berlina Coursa ... to give this RC her full name. All the " bling" bits arrived across the period of a month, and now ready to go in . The M-05 hop-ups from the company Venom are new to me , and I found out while assembling them into the chassis that there are NO instructions on how to build them . But that's a story for later on.
  6. Does anyone know off-had if the Yeah Racing M-05 Motor mount works in the Ver II chassis?
  7. Hello all, Well, the postal delivery folks brought me another eBay purchase today. I picked up what was advertised as a Tamiya M-05 chassis. It's a brand new roller chassis that's never been run, but completely assembled save for a steering servo, ESC, receiver, and tires. Not sure what I plan to do with this vehicle yet, but it was cheap so I snapped it up. However, after doing a bit of searching online (as you do) I've discovered that the wheels on the model itself look to be from the Tamiya 2006 Mini Cooper S (kit #58400), which used an M-03L chassis. Now, it's very likely the seller may have simply installed a spare set of wheels they had left from a different build, but it's now raised the question: how can I identify whether the chassis I've purchased is an M-03L or an M-05? Thanks in advance. Cheers! Michael
  8. Hi, I started running my car on gravel today having converted it from road going and after two runs the switch has become very difficult to move from the dust. Is there any way to get rid of the ust in there and also is there anyway to prevent that? My car is a VW Golf Mk1 with the M-05S chasis. Thanks in advance, Seb
  9. Hi All, Selling this Suzuki Swift on behalf of a friend. Looks like it's only been run once or twice. Body shell looks practically as good as new with no splits etc. Tyres look to have been glued but are nice and soft with no splits or cracks. A bit dusty and box is a bit squashed. No servo or radio gear but includes standard silver can and manual and box. What you see in the photos is what you will receive. £35 delivered to UK. Payment via PayPal gift please. Will pack securely. Let me know if you have any questions. Also selling a TT01e Suzuki Swift.
  10. I intend to use this body for speed runs. This body will eventually get destroyed. I am not going for perfection or master modeler status here. I got the body from SabulaTech on eBay. It was listed as an error body, and only cost $7.99 USD. The error on the body was at the bottom of the shell in the back, and I planned to cut that part off anyways. So, at that price, I figured why not experiment. I picked up two of this body and one of another style. My idea was to make it fit an M-chassis with a heat gun, and see what happens. Maybe there's something to learn here about reshaping poly-carbonate bodies. I may make a second attempt at this using a mold that I am working on from a block of wood. I do have plans to get an RM-01, so I may save the other error bodies that I got for that. Here's how the body sat on top of the M-05. The body is resting on the top of the shocks. I screwed the back of the body down to a board. I used random objects as spacers to keep the chassis from rolling backwards, which also kept it lined up with the wheelbase. I rested a somewhat heavy book on the uncut part of the shell. My idea was that the weight of the book would pull the body down as the heat gun softened the body. I used a damp towel to keep the heat from going where I didn't want it to go. I used the heat gun on a low setting and now know that this step was unnecessary because the heat wasn't that extreme. I made a video of the heat gun process showing the body coming down. The entire video was 12 minutes long. I shorted it down to about 3 minutes. The audio is off, but it's just the sound of a heat gun. When I was finished, the shocks were not too hot to hold. They had some heat, but nothing that would cause damage to the chassis. As I said, the heat gun was on low, which is rated at about 350 degrees. For the last few seconds, I did run it on high, but over a larger area. Here's how it looked afterwards. It now looks like a Sting Ray, which was the decider of my color choice. I expected the body to sit lower than it did once trimmed. I now know to pull the body down further if I am to attempt this again. I also expected it to melt down and bubble out in a much bigger area. I did not expect it to take the exact shape of the top of the shocks. I've started carving away at a block of wood that I may use as a mold for the second attempt. My thinking is that this will give a much bigger spread, rather than taking the shape of the parts around it. Trimmed: M-05 rear body mounts did not clear the body. I has some extra body mounts on hand, and drilled and screwed them into the rear bulkhead for the droop screws. The front mounts are M-05. And a quick spray of Tamiya Gun Metal paint. I'm going to run it like this and see how it does. If I can improve on it by making a front spoiler to get rid of some of that ground clearance, I may do so.
  11. Looking for a new in box Tamiya #58483 RC Mini Cooper '94 Monte Carlo - M05
  12. Just to generate some funds...FREE UK SHIPPING, paypal gift pleaseAll superb condition, no ESC's£85 58581 m-05 Gopro Swift£85 58614 mf-01x Jimny£100 58601 wr-02g Kuma tractor£115 58616 CC-01 lwb VW Amarok£115 58406 DF-01 Porsche Cayenne Or just £400 for all of them, £350 collected (North east wales)They are all listed on ebay as well now
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