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Found 10 results

  1. firefoxussr

    M04L Lancia Rally aka Abarth 037

    As many of you have guessed, I'm a lover of all things Lancia. I've owned two Lancias. In high school I had a Lancia Beta Coupe *cue rust jokes*. And during college I bought and drove a Lancia Scorpion aka Montecarlo. The Coupe was fun, and I still tell the story about its rust nearly causing an accident. The Montecarlo was my true love, still to date my favorite car owned. I drove it for nearly a decade, eventually selling it as I needed air conditioning and it needed a proper repainting. I've been in love with all things Montecarlo since I saw the Lancia Rally stradale in the Bayless Fiat-Lancia parts catalog. From that I'd read many articles about the car. So as a Lancia fan, it's odd to say but the Stratos always comes second in my mind in spite of its accomplishments. I've owned more than a few 1/43 scale 037s, a few 1/24 scale Hasegawa, a pair of 1/24 Polisil models, and a 1/18th Kyosho. But the Tamiya 037 is the most interesting. Plus you can actually use it. My family was huge into Fiats and Lancia. Still is to a degree. Clockwise from bottom left: My 1976 Lancia Scorpion, Fiat 124 Coupe, my father's 77 Scorpion, 81 Beta Zagato (Spider), '80 Fiat 124 Spider ITB racecar, and another 124 Spider project car. So for me getting into RC in early 2013, it was quite timely that Tamiya should re-release the body in 2014. Unfortunately there is a bit of hunting required to piece together a working car. I did buy a TA03R, bought the new production belt from Germany and a R-S tub, built it... crashed it (minus bodyshell), rebuilt it. Then it annoyed me that the axles were always a little too wide in front. And the belt kept falling off on the back. The decision was made that I would sell the TA03R-S with the 911 GT1 shell I had that was useless because it was already cut... making duplication a daunting task. Then came the TA05. Originally you guessed it, it was for the Lancia 037 shell. Using the Porsche 911 GT2 body re-release instructions, I shortened the chassis. Again... front track way too wide even with extra thin hexes. If you've read this far, I think you know why I've decided on an M04 as the basis for this project. Additionally the supplied 037 wheels are simply too large in diameter for the body. This isn't surprising. Bearing in mind the body was originally designed for the ORV then redesigned to fit the TA03R-S. The reality is I'm grateful Tamiya made the re-releases. I now own enough bodies bought at a reasonable enough price, that I don't have to treat all of them as shelf queens. More to follow :-D The more you know factoid: Lancia Rally was the car's official designation. The 037 portion is an Abarth project number. And yes, the Group B Lancia Delta S4 is the Abarth 038.
  2. I thought I'd create a fairly comprehensive build thread for the (#58647) M07 chassis kit. It'll be pretty much as it is presented in the manual so this should be more helpful to beginners. I sold my M05 chassis to fund this purchase and I don't regret it for a second. The quality of this kit blows the M05 away in my opinion, as it should with the price difference and lacking some components. Having said that, it has things most people want to buy straight away, such as bearings and CVA dampers. Australia's RC-Mini.net posted on Facebook some in depth videos when the M07 was released. The newer chassis is supposed to be much easier to setup and to make adjustments on, as well as outright better performance. Looking through the manual it actually seems to be a very straight forward build. This will initially be built as it comes in the box. I haven't decided on tyres, motor, receiver, or even a servo for it at this point. The body will be a Tamiya Honda CRX I previously finished, so it will be built middle wheelbase. I am considering also getting a Tamiya Mazda 2/Demio to try the long wheelbase setting. A few points to note about the M07: The M07 features a TA06 gear differential. You get some blue aluminium bits in the box. No tyres, tyre inserts, motor, ESC, or body in the kit. There's no short wheelbase on this chassis. My workspace doesn't have the best lighting and I don't have a camera tripod so I'll experiment with improving the photos as I go. Questions or comments are welcomed! Step 1: Very simple start. Screws go underneath steering posts. Step 2: Putting together the differential. They're quite simple, not too fiddly. You will need: Trim the plastic from all the gears after removing them from the sprue. Here's photo of before. I trimmed them with a hobby knife. Why didn't I photo these on the green cutting mat? Lesson learned. Here's the after shot. Next put the cup joint into the diff half, then pop the o-ring over it. The Tamiya wrench tool is handy here to push it on evenly. Shim next. Now the shaft goes into the diff joint cup. There's a horizontal hole and the shaft isn't easy to adjust inside the diff case. I recommend using a pair of tweezers. Put the GV2 gear, lining up the recesses with the shaft. Other side of the diff is basically identical. Here's the finished product. Assemble the gears. Insert into diff case. Fill with diff fluid. The kit supplies #100,000 oil. You should fill to the level of the cross bar holding the gears. It's thick enough that it will just sit on top of the diff gears, so it looks over-filled in the photos. I slowly turned the diff joint cup to move it around the diff a bit. The manual shows an image of the oil being poured in, but its way too thick for that and they supply a small bottle that needs to be squeezed. Line up the gasket with the screw holes. Put the diff cover on. It will line up with the square notches in the gasket and other diff half. Screw the two halves together. I incrementally screw them in, using a cross pattern. Slide the bearings on and it's done. They can be a tight fit so keep them as even as possible when sliding them on to prevent them getting stuck.
  3. Alright, I'll be honest here, this isn't my first time straying from The Path of Tamiya. I've owned an HPI RS4, a Corally CCT and an Academy Griffin buggy. But somehow, probably because this car is from the great far-east, it just feels wrong. But I didn't let that stop me. I've always liked M-chassis cars, having owned an M02 Alpine as a kid. I've owned an M05 Pro VII with all the bells and whistles, but I've never been able to get that thing to handle the way I wanted to. Ever since I've mostly stuck to touring cars, but I've always kept an eye out for something that's as easy to setup as a TC, but can wear the great little body shells of an M-chassis. On Christmas morning I found this little go-cart under the tree, which is exactly what I've been looking for. This car originally started out life as a Nanda NXR12, a 1/12th scale touring car, before the Chinese OEM found out that with a few tweaks to the wheelbase you could fit Tamiya M-chassis body shells on there. HobbyKing picked up the car, rebranded it, and is selling them for a very reasonable price. And quite the car you're getting! Full ball-bearings, CVDs all around, carbon lower and upper deck, oil shocks, and it even comes with a cute little totally-not-a-Suzuki-Swift body shell. The car has a wheelbase of 210mm (the 'short' M-length), which allows for my old Mini Cooper Racing bodyshell to be used. After Christmas I could barely contain myself, but had to wait for a few hopups I'd already ordered after opening the package. However, that didn't stop me from doing the body shell! I'm challenging myself to create better and prettier body shells. I found I've got a bit of a knack for spraying polycarbonate body shells, even though I haven't moved on from using rattle cans. But with some careful masking you can still get decent results. For the colors I chose PS-2 red as the main color, with the accents done in PS-1 white. At the last minute I added a swoopy dragon's tail, something my wife came up with. For the price it even comes with mirrors and a little spoiler, both of which I painted duefully. The decals included with the body shell are quite basic. Unfortunately you get full window stickers instead of just the outlines. However, my trusty blade made quick work of that. That, along with a black sharpie to accentuate all the panel lines (and hand-draw things like the fuel filler flap and the door handles), actually suit the body quite well and make for a handsome package. Yesterday-morning the hopups arrived, with most crucially a set of ball bearings for the sliding steering rack. You'll see when the build gets to that stage. On with the actual build! Step 1 Build the diffs. Done. The diffs are pre-built from the box. As they are two ball-diffs, I took them apart and checked them for any mistakes during assembly. They needed tightening, but other than that they were fine. After they're run-in I'm sure I'll take them out to be set at their final tightness anyway. Step 2 Step 2 involves building the sliding rack steering setup. I've never seen this before on any car, and it's a cool system. That whole thing attaches to the aft front suspension block, and slides back and forth on four ball bearings. From the box you get bushings, but everyone that races one recommends replacing them with ball bearings immediately, or else your steering won't center properly. Step 3 Attach steering block and suspension bits to chassis Nothing too exciging here. You can see how the sliding rack works and is attached to the car. The chassis is a nice piece of CF. Quite thick, but on a carpet track you don't want too much flex anyway. Step 4 Servo-time! They've included a servo saver of similar design to the Tamiya 51000 High Torque servo saver. It's huge though.... I attached it to a Savöx MG1251 low profile servo, my servo of choice for anything on-road. They're fairly affordable and give great and dependable performance. I had to spacer out the servo saver a bit, or else it would hit the body of the servo when tightening the screw. Step 5 This involved attaching the servo to the chassis. I noticed that the holes for the servo were drilled a little too close together, and also offset slightly. I blame Chinese QC. However, my Dremel made short work of that, and the servo (with aluminium posts!) mounted up well. In the same step you also attach the rear lower arms. The suspension blocks are actually mounted to the rear gearbox, allowing the whole unit to come off with just 4 screws. This is done so that changing the spur gear doesn't involve pulling half the car apart. Clever! Step 6 This was probably the step that took me the longest of the build so far (aside from the body, obviously). There is a 48 pitch spur and pinion included, but I wanted to use 0.4 mod gears because that's what both my race cars use and this insures that I've got enough gears. A while back I bought two 0.4 mod spurs for a TB Evo, thinking I could fit them to the TRF419. Nope. However, the 90t spur fit this car well, and combined with a 39 or 40 tooth pinion from my stock this should give me an FDR of about 5.4, which should be in the ballpark for 55mm tires on our small carpet track. Many shimming happened on both these input shafts so that the backlash was correct for the diffs, which are installed in... Step 6 With the backlash now set correctly, the car runs decently quiet and smoothly. Of course all gears need to be run-in some more before I can have any final say in it, but I'm decently confident that after 45 minutes of shimming the living daylights out of it it should run decently well. Onto Step 7... In which we build the two front C-hubs. I lubricated the CVDs with a bit of graphite powder, and built them up as per manual. Surprisingly it required no shimming at all! Time will tell if that remains the case or that some slop will develop after some running. Step 8 Not very surprisingly, step 8 attaches both C-hubs to the chassis. Again, no shimming was required. There is a slight bind on one of the arms, I'm hoping this will simply wear in with running. And this is where I was left last night. Today, we continue on! Keep an eye out on this space.
  4. Having injured my back at work earlier this month, I'm currently stuck at home in "recovery" for the next three months. I'm pretty much immobile and getting bored, so I've decided to put this together to pass some of the time: The idea is go all out with the chassis, and make something functional yet still aesthetically pleasing. As stated in the thread title, it's going to be an M06RS, since it will have a 210mm wheelbase, but enough mods to garner the "R" designation. Oh, and I'm going to make it 8mm wider as well Haven't any idea how this will effect handling, but my primary aim is to fill the wheel arches better than the stock configuration seems to offer. A sample of the hop-ups I'll be using: As you can see, most of it is standard Tamiya stuff, with a few other aftermarket makers thrown in for good measure. Not all of it mind you, but this might give you an idea of how methodically I've been planning this build!
  5. Hey folks, this is my first post to TamiyaClub and I wanted to share my cars. I have used this forum to figure what I wanted to build and to find out options for bodies etc over the last year or so and its really a great forum and resource. I wish that I was better at taking pictures while I build the bodies and the chassis but I end up being to focused and I forget to take pictures. I would have put this in the build section but its pretty much the finished cars. So being a big Porsche fan I wanted to get an RC car and at the same time Tamiya Released the 1/10th 40th Anniversary 934 Jagermiester. A great car and kit, I enjoyed the build but realized it was a dated layout and tech, and also really big. So after researching about Tamiya I found that there first cars were mostly Porsches and actually more like 1/12 scale and that the most recent similar and cost effective offering was the TamTech GT-01 Chassis. A nice RWD setup i picked up a few TamTech 935 RTR kits one to drive and crash with my son and a couple to keep / sell. The RWD proved to be fun with high grip but out of control on slick surfaces. So not wanting to spend more money to get older rare vintage and older tech, I started looking at M-Chassis to quickly learn they are all FWD or RWD and pretty entry level, except for 1 special limited edition version! So as quirky as it is, the TA05 M-Four was just what I wanted 4WD M Chassis that was a little "high end". The main downside is the tall height of the front shock towers as many 1/12th scale bodies are of cars with low lying hoods. (So all of my bodies sit as low as they can on the shock towers but oddly enough, works out being just the right height so far) Being Retail $600 was not what I wanted, but tamiyausa has it for $249 nowadays. I want to buy one more to keep since it is in fact limited edition! Tamiya 84255 TA05 M-Four Dynamite Basic Fwd Rev ESC Futaba Standard ball bearing servo Tamiya SPT Motor 380 Tactic Basic Receiver / Controller So after figuring the chassis out I was about to pull the trigger on 934 and 935 TamTech Bodies and original 934 and 935 plastic bodies I found available, but then learned that the 934 and 935 where on an even smaller wheel base than 210mm....So I re-started my search for bodies to find HPI Cup Racer 1/12th scale had 2 - 210mm wheel base bodies : Lancia Stratos and luckily '73 Carrera RSR! BAM!! Back on track to accomplish my mission of 1/12th scale Tamiya 4WD M Chassis Porsche! So I ordered the discontinued HPI Porsche body from Japan. It is very accurate with nice trims and accessories, but thinner flimsyier than Tamiya bodies, but thats ok, its still awesome! I also started looking again at Tamiya bodies as they are always super detailed and very sturdy. So I have a list now and I have accomplished 3 bodies with about another 5 left to obtain and paint: HPI Cup Racer Porsche Carrera RSR - Done Tamiya 1/12 Renault Alpine A110 - Done Tamiya 1/12 Honda S800 - Done Tamiya 1/12 Nissan Silvia S15 - Done Tamiya 1/12 Renault R5 Turbo - Next in line to complete and to make a scale replica of my own actual 1984 R5 Turbo Red - Need to Find! Tamiya 1/12 Fiat Abarth 1000 TCR - Next in line to complete and currently available for little more than i want to spend around $200-$300 for body. But super awesome with engine hanging out of the back!! Tamiya 1/12 Porsche 959 - Hard to find and very pricey - awesome none the less and required for my Porsche collection!!! I will do this one after I do a Renault R5 Turbo Tamiya 1/12 Toyota Celica Group B - Even harder to find than the 959 and I love Toyota so I hope to find this one at a reasonable price and build also. And on to the rest of the pics! 1973 Porsche 911 Carrera RSR - Burnt Orange - 3mm Front Wheels - 6mm Rear Wheels : HPI Cup Racer 8 Spoke MX60 1971 Renault Alpine A110 - Corsa Grey - 0mm Front Wheels - 3mm Rear Wheels : HPI Cup Racer 8 Spoke MX60 1965 Honda S800 - Metallic Black - 3mm Front Wheels - 3mm Rear Wheels : HPI Cup Racer 8 Spoke MX60 Nissan Silvia S15 - Pink Gold Irridescent PS47 - 6mm Yokomo T6R Wheels Thanks for looking and any comments are appreciated.
  6. I intend to use this body for speed runs. This body will eventually get destroyed. I am not going for perfection or master modeler status here. I got the body from SabulaTech on eBay. It was listed as an error body, and only cost $7.99 USD. The error on the body was at the bottom of the shell in the back, and I planned to cut that part off anyways. So, at that price, I figured why not experiment. I picked up two of this body and one of another style. My idea was to make it fit an M-chassis with a heat gun, and see what happens. Maybe there's something to learn here about reshaping poly-carbonate bodies. I may make a second attempt at this using a mold that I am working on from a block of wood. I do have plans to get an RM-01, so I may save the other error bodies that I got for that. Here's how the body sat on top of the M-05. The body is resting on the top of the shocks. I screwed the back of the body down to a board. I used random objects as spacers to keep the chassis from rolling backwards, which also kept it lined up with the wheelbase. I rested a somewhat heavy book on the uncut part of the shell. My idea was that the weight of the book would pull the body down as the heat gun softened the body. I used a damp towel to keep the heat from going where I didn't want it to go. I used the heat gun on a low setting and now know that this step was unnecessary because the heat wasn't that extreme. I made a video of the heat gun process showing the body coming down. The entire video was 12 minutes long. I shorted it down to about 3 minutes. The audio is off, but it's just the sound of a heat gun. When I was finished, the shocks were not too hot to hold. They had some heat, but nothing that would cause damage to the chassis. As I said, the heat gun was on low, which is rated at about 350 degrees. For the last few seconds, I did run it on high, but over a larger area. Here's how it looked afterwards. It now looks like a Sting Ray, which was the decider of my color choice. I expected the body to sit lower than it did once trimmed. I now know to pull the body down further if I am to attempt this again. I also expected it to melt down and bubble out in a much bigger area. I did not expect it to take the exact shape of the top of the shocks. I've started carving away at a block of wood that I may use as a mold for the second attempt. My thinking is that this will give a much bigger spread, rather than taking the shape of the parts around it. Trimmed: M-05 rear body mounts did not clear the body. I has some extra body mounts on hand, and drilled and screwed them into the rear bulkhead for the droop screws. The front mounts are M-05. And a quick spray of Tamiya Gun Metal paint. I'm going to run it like this and see how it does. If I can improve on it by making a front spoiler to get rid of some of that ground clearance, I may do so.
  7. I'm looking for one of these. Especially the shell. If you have one unbuilt that is perfect. If you have just the shell and it's still recognizable, I'd like to buy it in any condition. If you have just the chassis, I might even buy that. I really love this car. Thanks Gary.
  8. For sale, my entire collection of M01 and M02 parts. I once gathered all this for a failed idea to go racing with an M01, and now it's been gathering dust. Not everything is in the best of shape, but there are a few new sprues, and two whole good long-wheelbase nose sections. What you get: - 2 almost-new long wheelbase nose sections - 2 complete D-parts - 1 C-parts without steering knuckle (part C5 is seperate, but present) - 3 x left and 3x right main chassis parts in good shape - 2 x gearbox halves left and right in poor shape - 1 steering link assembly - 6 battery stoppers - 3 battery 'wings' and some misc small bits like body posts and such I'd prefer not to split the set. If you want we can always negotiate about making a set of parts. Asking price for the whole thing: €40, ex. shipping from The Netherlands.
  9. samjones

    MASSIVE Tamiya M05 Package

    Hi, I'm having a clear out of my Tamiya M05s. I really haven't used the cars, but this is still a reluctant sale. The price may seem high, but for it all new it would be around £1,000! M05 Pro: Fantastic condition, used a handful of times, like new! Tamiya Carbon Front Damper Stay Tamiya Blue Alloy Front Hubs 3Racung BlueAlloy C Hubs Tamiya Universal Shafts 3Racing Differential Tamiya Ball Bearings 3Racing Blue Alloy Steering Link Tamiya Blue Alloy Steering Set Tamiya Silver Alloy Steering Posts (Slight Issue with screw, doesn't effect steering) Tamiya Alloy Rear Hubs Tamiya Stabiliser Kit Carbon Rear Damper Stay Tamiya BlueAlloy Motor Mount 3Racing Blue Alloy Motor Heatsink TRF Bronze Dampers (Not Silver Dampers pictured on car) Electronics: Savox 1251 Servo Hobbywing Xerun 60a 2S ESC Hobbywing Programming Box Hobbywing Ezrun 13t Motor Tamiya TRF Bronze Dampers (Not Silver Dampers pictured on car) M05RA: Great Condition, fairly new gears and shafts, not used often. Ball Bearings 3Racing Universal Joints 3Racing Alloy Motor Mount 3Racing Alloy Steering Set Electronics: LRP Spin Super ESC HPI Flux Motor 13.5t Futaba Servo (Please not, Oil Dampers on the front of the M05RA are not included) M05: Good condition, spare car, hasn't been used much by me. 1 Crack on front of chassis, doesn't effect performance. Tamiya Silver M03 Alloy Front Hubs Tamiya New Driveshafts Tamiya TRF Bronze Dampers Ball Bearings 3Racjng Alloy Rear Hubs Electronics: Savox Water Proof Servo Podium Brushed ESC HPI Saturn 20t Motor Spares: Carbon Front Bumper x4 Front Wishbones x1 Rear Wishbone x4 Friction Dampers x4 Roll Bars x1 Steering Bar x1 M03 Battery Holder x3 M05 Front Uprights x1 M03 Front Ipright x3 M05 Rear Hubs x2 M03 Rear Hubs x1 M05 Rear Suspension Block x3 M05 C Hubs x2 M03 C Hubs x7 M05 Rear Suspension Mounts x1 M05 Battery Holder x1 M05 Front Bumper x2 M05 Electrics Trays x1 Transponder Holder x4 Battery Bars x1 Compete Chassis Set minus Right Side x1 B Parts (Minus a Plastic motor mount) x2 C Parts (Minus a few parts) x1 3Racing Ball diff x2 Standard Tamiya Diff x1 Spare Gear x4 Bushings Shells: Tamiya Swift S1600: Good condition, few scuffs, minor cracks (under 1cm) Blitz Mini C30: Raced condition, paint scuffed under tape and 2 cracks over arches (Still useable though) Blitz Mini RS4 (Spider-Man): Shoo-Gooed and sticker under the paint on inside. No cracks. HPI Blue Mini: Used once, well painted, 1 dent. Looks great on a car, stripes painted not stickers. HPI Flame Mini: Shoo-gooed, race condition, glitter in paint, flames painted not stickers. Wheels: 1 Set of used Grey Minilite wheels, Tamiya Tyres. 1 Set of used 3Racing wheels with Tamiya Tyres. 1 Pair of used Sweep wheels and tyres 1 Set of new Sweep Racing Wheels in Packet. 1 Set of used Tamiya Rally blocks on Swift Wheels (On M05RA) Also: Etronix Stick Transmitter (Great Condition) Etronix Receiver (Case around bottom cracked and stuck back together, works fine). Tamiya M05 Manual (please note, the Spektrem receivers pictures are not included.) Will not split unless the price is right. £520 (ono) collected (will post, but due to vast amount of stuff I would rather it collected!) Thanks for reading Sam
  10. alfagta

    M-04 to M-04EL

    hi all , i have long wanted a 1/10 RWD rally car or more specifically a MK1 ford escort , i was planning on building a chassis from scratch using the gearbox from a 2WD buggy and a carbon chassis plate but, that's still in the works, in the mean time i came across a modified M04 chassis on a forum somewhere , it looked real easy and cheap to do so i thought what the hang lets give it a go, i ordered some TL01 suspension arms and set too, its an easy mod ,you will also need two lots of the chassis extenders, i had some in the box of muchness , i had some 42mm dogbones laying around in the bitz boxes too , they should be 39mm with 'o'rings but the 42's are fine if you leave the 'o'rings out of the drive cups , one small issue i came across were the front shock lower spring cup was fowling wishbones , i used some longer shock rod ends to overcome the issue , no biggy, i may have to adjust the wheelbase slightly but that will have to wait until the shell gets here , i haven't run it yet as i am waiting for the ESC and RX to arrive . i will update this thread as i get the parts and time to bring it all together and tune the handling to get it to drift as realistically as i can