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Found 19 results

  1. I accidentally stumbled on this converson kit at Buyee, and I knew right away that I have to have it. I waited couple of days until the auction was in it's last few hours and placed a bid. And to my surprise, I was the only bidder! I got it for a great price. A Buyee bargain indeed. Last week I got the kit and now it's time to build it. This is what you get in this kit or what I got. I think I got some extra bits because there was two sets of lower arms, golden and blue, and CVD's and dogbones for two cars. Manual sheets. It is useful to have the TF-2 manual as well. Chassis and shock towers are nice black glass fiber and the chassis has counter sunk holes I had some nice aluminium upgrade parts for this build and some stock parts that are also needed. Not pictured are the suspension arm pins that are needed too. And I'm missing the rear belt but I have ordered some. This would sure look better with blue diff casess and motor plate. And this is where I'm at currently. I started at the front and not really following the TF-2 manual.
  2. While waiting to get everything together for an M03 rally project I figured I'd start a topic on M-Chassis. Only recently have I really gotten into these since they make on-road RC very fun. So far I like my M-06 to drive, the same faults that make it hard to race make it fun on parking lots, it really is the perfect chassis for older rear-motor cars. Working on it can be awkward though, routing the servo wire and getting the ESC/motor wires to reach when LWB is annoying. While my MF-01x was my least favorite, I can't call it bad in anyway. It just had its share of flaws in the back area and 4wd made it predictable on tarmac, I never did oil dampers with it admittedly.
  3. Before anyone reads this, I encourage you to look at the MB01 objectively and wait for its proper release, don't let mt rambling taint what could end up being a good chassis! I have some mixed thoughts on it, I do like the customisation that it offers and if I were any good at bodies I'd seriously consider buying that Abarth shell, but I'm not so sure about the chassis itself. Instead of the usual M-chassis arms it looks like it'll be using the TT-02s setup, that could mean a built-in rally setting, but it could also mean sloppier handling (especially if short wheelbase). My big question is how it will be to work on, the strange motor/drivetrain arrangement could be troublesome, the steering bellcranks (which we will inevidably replace) seem hidden from view. Theres a lot of stacking and clutter. And since diff access is tedious on some previous M chassis I've been trying to figure out how you get to it on the MB01. Also, if they're going to change the friction shocks I'd like to see the rubber/grease setup from the older chassis. My M03 has a set and I actually find them to be okay enough for just bashing about. On the plus side, wiring should not be a problem, servo access is easy, and Im sure that the cog is quite low. As I've said before, a stock-spec MB-01 class would be very interesting due to them being cheap yet highly customizable.
  4. All items below are $20 a piece, but I am willing to make combo deals. If you are interested in any of my items please PM for pictures and more info. Pro Super Mini Shocks = These are the transparent shocks from an M06 Pro chassis with black springs, they do leak so they will require rebuilding before being driven or use for a shelf queen. I've used them only a few times. Used Foam Tires/Wheels = These are a used set of tires glued to their rims, one has some wear but the others aren't half bad. Two M03 Chassis = Both of these chassis are the bare front/rear halfs, they have their share of scuffs but no cracks. Included are part trees with hubs, servo savers, etc.
  5. Alright, I'll be honest here, this isn't my first time straying from The Path of Tamiya. I've owned an HPI RS4, a Corally CCT and an Academy Griffin buggy. But somehow, probably because this car is from the great far-east, it just feels wrong. But I didn't let that stop me. I've always liked M-chassis cars, having owned an M02 Alpine as a kid. I've owned an M05 Pro VII with all the bells and whistles, but I've never been able to get that thing to handle the way I wanted to. Ever since I've mostly stuck to touring cars, but I've always kept an eye out for something that's as easy to setup as a TC, but can wear the great little body shells of an M-chassis. On Christmas morning I found this little go-cart under the tree, which is exactly what I've been looking for. This car originally started out life as a Nanda NXR12, a 1/12th scale touring car, before the Chinese OEM found out that with a few tweaks to the wheelbase you could fit Tamiya M-chassis body shells on there. HobbyKing picked up the car, rebranded it, and is selling them for a very reasonable price. And quite the car you're getting! Full ball-bearings, CVDs all around, carbon lower and upper deck, oil shocks, and it even comes with a cute little totally-not-a-Suzuki-Swift body shell. The car has a wheelbase of 210mm (the 'short' M-length), which allows for my old Mini Cooper Racing bodyshell to be used. After Christmas I could barely contain myself, but had to wait for a few hopups I'd already ordered after opening the package. However, that didn't stop me from doing the body shell! I'm challenging myself to create better and prettier body shells. I found I've got a bit of a knack for spraying polycarbonate body shells, even though I haven't moved on from using rattle cans. But with some careful masking you can still get decent results. For the colors I chose PS-2 red as the main color, with the accents done in PS-1 white. At the last minute I added a swoopy dragon's tail, something my wife came up with. For the price it even comes with mirrors and a little spoiler, both of which I painted duefully. The decals included with the body shell are quite basic. Unfortunately you get full window stickers instead of just the outlines. However, my trusty blade made quick work of that. That, along with a black sharpie to accentuate all the panel lines (and hand-draw things like the fuel filler flap and the door handles), actually suit the body quite well and make for a handsome package. Yesterday-morning the hopups arrived, with most crucially a set of ball bearings for the sliding steering rack. You'll see when the build gets to that stage. On with the actual build! Step 1 Build the diffs. Done. The diffs are pre-built from the box. As they are two ball-diffs, I took them apart and checked them for any mistakes during assembly. They needed tightening, but other than that they were fine. After they're run-in I'm sure I'll take them out to be set at their final tightness anyway. Step 2 Step 2 involves building the sliding rack steering setup. I've never seen this before on any car, and it's a cool system. That whole thing attaches to the aft front suspension block, and slides back and forth on four ball bearings. From the box you get bushings, but everyone that races one recommends replacing them with ball bearings immediately, or else your steering won't center properly. Step 3 Attach steering block and suspension bits to chassis Nothing too exciging here. You can see how the sliding rack works and is attached to the car. The chassis is a nice piece of CF. Quite thick, but on a carpet track you don't want too much flex anyway. Step 4 Servo-time! They've included a servo saver of similar design to the Tamiya 51000 High Torque servo saver. It's huge though.... I attached it to a Savöx MG1251 low profile servo, my servo of choice for anything on-road. They're fairly affordable and give great and dependable performance. I had to spacer out the servo saver a bit, or else it would hit the body of the servo when tightening the screw. Step 5 This involved attaching the servo to the chassis. I noticed that the holes for the servo were drilled a little too close together, and also offset slightly. I blame Chinese QC. However, my Dremel made short work of that, and the servo (with aluminium posts!) mounted up well. In the same step you also attach the rear lower arms. The suspension blocks are actually mounted to the rear gearbox, allowing the whole unit to come off with just 4 screws. This is done so that changing the spur gear doesn't involve pulling half the car apart. Clever! Step 6 This was probably the step that took me the longest of the build so far (aside from the body, obviously). There is a 48 pitch spur and pinion included, but I wanted to use 0.4 mod gears because that's what both my race cars use and this insures that I've got enough gears. A while back I bought two 0.4 mod spurs for a TB Evo, thinking I could fit them to the TRF419. Nope. However, the 90t spur fit this car well, and combined with a 39 or 40 tooth pinion from my stock this should give me an FDR of about 5.4, which should be in the ballpark for 55mm tires on our small carpet track. Many shimming happened on both these input shafts so that the backlash was correct for the diffs, which are installed in... Step 6 With the backlash now set correctly, the car runs decently quiet and smoothly. Of course all gears need to be run-in some more before I can have any final say in it, but I'm decently confident that after 45 minutes of shimming the living daylights out of it it should run decently well. Onto Step 7... In which we build the two front C-hubs. I lubricated the CVDs with a bit of graphite powder, and built them up as per manual. Surprisingly it required no shimming at all! Time will tell if that remains the case or that some slop will develop after some running. Step 8 Not very surprisingly, step 8 attaches both C-hubs to the chassis. Again, no shimming was required. There is a slight bind on one of the arms, I'm hoping this will simply wear in with running. And this is where I was left last night. Today, we continue on! Keep an eye out on this space.
  6. ( 2015-present ) I’ve been a TamiyaClub & Rctech site admirer, researcher and observer for decades. Finally I thought it would be nice to document my journey and the various chassis I enjoy. This is as much for some viewers to casually scroll through my process and humble learnings as it is for me share and digitize my untold journey 1990s / Toronto Growing up always I lusted after touring cars and particularly a Tamiya. Back in the day it was only grainy magazine photos and some Californian or Japanese address. It was always far out of reach, both the sun, rc tracks and the culture. In 1993 I was lucky enough to get and build a Traxxas Stampede with my dad as a kid in Toronto, Canada. Decades and many moves, continents, education, career, kids later I bought my first Tamiya. 2015 / Melbourne Purchased through Gumtree Australia I got my hands on a well built and well used M05 13T spec racer. Having had zero prior experience with Tamiya m-chassis or any in depth knowledge anything rc related I began to learn and appreciate the tasteful and useful upgrades the car already had at time of purchase from what I could gather : ———————————————————— Tamiya M05 Pro Tamiya Alu M dampers Tamiya Alu Front and Rear hub carriers Tamiya Alu steering assembly Tamiya Alu front suspension mount Tamiya Alu steering arm Ball bearings 3racing Gear Diff Yeah racing driveshafts Tamiya M chassis springs Sweep 36R tires Hobbywing EZrun 13T / ESC combo 4200mAh 40C Lipo M chassis compatible Futaba servo NIB Colt 210mm Mini Cooper body ( Loved that it came with a untouched lexan too ) NIB full spare M05 chassis kit plastics ( Was very happy this was included, even if not used for quiet a while ) ———————————————————- It arrived, as quick as I could open the box I stuck in a spektrum receiver at the time bound it up to my radio and quickly hit the pounding hot Australian courtyard pavement learning how much of a blast and unique the driving experience was of a fwd m-chassis. The power was ample, this thing moved but was not overkill. It had a quirky balance and a style of driving that needed a bit of planning. The cornering ability was incredible both off and on throttle. The car was enjoyed thoroughly at lunch and afterwork courtyard racing with work colleagues. Once a month it was experienced untimed lapping at Templestowe raceway (TFTR) in VIC, Melbourne with work colleague. Incredible fun, if I could I would sleep there. ( First track I’ve seen IRL, life changing and affirming. ) With the modern “bmw era” Mini Cooper body I went with a one-make race series look you might see cutting through the apex on three wheels in the UK or Japan, something I am really passionate about, Group A, improved production, one make racing. AUX mounted lights are never a bad look in my book, I disassembled a 1/10 roof rack made for a crawler bought off eBay and fabricated a simple lamp tray from styrene for them to sit on. I bought a set of Hot racing foam wheels in black off eBay on a whim, I was happy how they looked. Family circumstances made the retreat back to Stockholm, Sweden a reality and everything was archived, wrapped up, boxed and courier express shipped where it stood in a storage unit. From 2016-2019, passion glowing red at the moment i can dive in again. Best moment First sight Too excited to wait to finish shell Courtyard sprint with a workmate Small repairs here and there Front end of the shell I antipated a hinged clamshell static display of some sort, but didn´t end up taking it any further
  7. I had a late start to my Iconic Cup prep this year, as I'd been focussing on other things, having a non-RC weekend break and doing some crawler events. I ran a couple of CWICs rounds in the winter (see this thread) and performed woefully, achieving the bottom spot in the first 3 events, missing the next because my wife booked me a birthday meal, and deciding not to bother with the last one at all. In fact, it was the Weds before the race weekend when I dragged my battered old M03 out of the box and started putting on all the bits that I'd taken off to make the M05 run last year. This car originally came to me from another TC member over 10 years ago, stock apart from bearings and an Acto Pink motor. Originally it was a Suzuki Wagon RR, but that body (and the NIB one that came with it) have been sold on. For a long time I raced this in the local clubman M-chassis class, which only permitted bearings, oil shocks and tyres, so apart from a lovely set of alloy shocks (can't actually remember if they're TRF or 3Racing) and a Tamiya spring set, it's bone stock, and has always been so. Last year I added a set of toe-in rear hubs off my FF02, which are a big improvement on cooler outdoor tracks, and after speaking to a local M-chassis champeen I decided I would pack the diff with Blu-Tac to stiffen it right up ready for practice day on Saturday. Now, those who followed my Yaris thread will know I had an issue with running the wrong tyres. For a quick recap: When I raced at my local carpet club, I bought a set of Sweep tyres. As far as I recall, they were just Sweep tyres - nobody said anything about the temperature / compound. I raced them for years, but after a few Iconic Cup rounds on tarmac, the fronts wore right down to the foam. In 2019 (or possibly earlier, I forget) I bought a new set of Sweeps, and didn't bother to check the compound / temp. I knew they were 25s as that's what I wrote on the inside of them, but I don't think I knew why I bought 25s or why it mattered. I tried them on the car during some tarmac Iconic Cup rounds, but always went back to the old tyres, as the new ones just wouldn't work for me. I put the new ones on last winter to race at CWICs, and (after a whole day of uncontrollable spinning) I learned that I needed 33s front and 25s rear, so I fitted the old, worn set of 33s up front and went out to drive an acceptable race (albeit too late to qualify for any points). Next time out at CWICs I decided I wouldn't fit the worn, foam-showing 33s I had at the previous meet, instead I'd put the old rears on, which I had bought at the same time and must, therefore, also be 33s. I had a horrible time with carpet pickup, pretty much had a miserable, miserable day spinning around at the back of the field, and went home wishing I hadn't bothered in the first place. Fast-forward to last Weds, when I pulled the Yaris out of the box to take the tyres and shocks off. It was then that I spotted something: an old, faded, red felt tip marking inside the old tyres: 25. So, in actual fact, I had been running 33/25 all along. I have absolutely no recollection of having bought 2 sets of tyres (or even a mixed bag of 2 pairs), but obviously I must have done, otherwise they wouldn't have different numbers in them. It's possible that the club bought and split the bags to keep starting costs down (in those days Mini was the entry-level class, although most of us Mini competitors had been racing touring for a while and got fed up with it). I must even have known about it, otherwise it was blind luck what corner each tyre would end up on - but again, I have no recollection of this. So - this left me with only one pair of 33s which were long past their best. A quick order from Racecraft R/C with the message "for collection at Iconic Cup, Mendip" and I was assured of the right tyres for the big event. Or so I thought.
  8. Having injured my back at work earlier this month, I'm currently stuck at home in "recovery" for the next three months. I'm pretty much immobile and getting bored, so I've decided to put this together to pass some of the time: The idea is go all out with the chassis, and make something functional yet still aesthetically pleasing. As stated in the thread title, it's going to be an M06RS, since it will have a 210mm wheelbase, but enough mods to garner the "R" designation. Oh, and I'm going to make it 8mm wider as well Haven't any idea how this will effect handling, but my primary aim is to fill the wheel arches better than the stock configuration seems to offer. A sample of the hop-ups I'll be using: As you can see, most of it is standard Tamiya stuff, with a few other aftermarket makers thrown in for good measure. Not all of it mind you, but this might give you an idea of how methodically I've been planning this build!
  9. Well, the build is actually finished so I understand am breaking the rules a bit, but I'll try to talk about the process and share some learnings so hopefully it is not banned after so much work. Sneak peek of the result: Decision process This is my first on-road car, tired of looking for suitable spaces to run my buggies, and having so many parking lots and sports fields available around I felt like it was the time to hit the road. Well, I am lying, I do have a WPL D12 Suzuki Carry van, that I enjoyed customising and improving, but even though it is a great car for the price, it will always be a toy. So, my requirements were: Cheap, or al least not crazy expensive No need to hop it up to get a decent, drivable car Easy to drive ( I am not an experienced driver ) Small, not taking too much space of my place and scaring my wife Nice "classic looking" bodies available After several advices from folks here I decided to go for an m-chassis. Tamiya was the initial option as usual, specially because of the bodies available, but then you need to hup-up a lot to get a good car and I went through it already.. At that time I didn't know that FWD m-chassis cars were recommended for beginners, so I started looking for 4WD, which limited Tamiya options too. Then I got into ABC hobby gambado, but just FWD, HPI's and it's greatly detailed bodies not even on sale anymore.. And then I found this video review from RC driver which got me convinced about being the perfect solution for me. I bought it for 160€ preassembled at a local distributor ( current Europe price as a kit is 130€ ). If I had to buy it again I would not go for the preassembled one, as it was very poorly executed, I had to almost reassemble it again. But besides that, the chassis is amazing and in my opinion way far from any Tamiya plasticky M-chassis ( I might be wrong ) This is a racing car, all reinforced fiber glass and composite, full ball bearings, oil dampers and a lot of clever solutions. The body selection: The next step was getting a nice body. Again, I went to Tamiya as a first option, although none of it's bodies are originally 4WD, I liked the Alfa Romeo Giulia, the Golf MK1, Alpine.. but I found quite difficult and expensive finding these bodies with all the extra parts and decals.. so I ended looking for any makers. As said before, HPI has great stuff on M-chassis, like the Datsun 510, but the wheel base is 225mm instead of the 210mm of my XM1S, so it became no option ( there are kits to enlarge the XM1S to 225mm ) So my next reliable option became the Japanese brand ABC Hobby. Their websites and overall info is quite poor, but they have lovely bodies, they also sell both BRE Datsuns on 210mm base, but I got in love with the Honda City turbo II. A Mini equivalent car, fat and tall with a great looking body seemingly easy to paint and finish. The process: Chassis Once reassembling some parts of the chassis and making some geometry adjustments, the most difficult part of this build was matching the body and the chassis. The body posts of the XM1S are totally incompatible with the City body, starting with the front body posts which are in the front bumper. As you can see firsly I had to cut the bumper foam to fit the body and secondly replace the original damper tower with a new one which includes holes for the body posts. For the rear part, I had to add several spacers to the posts, so these protrude through the roof and not the rear glass which is almost vertical. Once done that, it was still quite complex defining where the bodypost holes had to go, mostly because the front ones where just on the edges of the intercooler bump, but I was lucky to do the right calculations. Body build ABC body is great, not as tough as Tamiya stuff but super well detailed including the back of the lights and back number plate. I decided to mimmick the original Silver color from the 80`s product pictures using Tamiya PS-48 Metallic Silver although I was tempted to go for a Ferrari Red too, I think it would look even more aggressive. I don't regret, I like the Silver, but I confess I hate using metallic painting, it's specially troublesome and feels even more toxic. I also decided to use smoke gray for the windows as I had no interiors to show for the car nd it actually makes it look more sporty. Abc Hobies supplies great decals with the kit, even some of them in different colors if you paint it differently, but I must confess that cutting all them being some so rounded and thin was a nightmare.. Also applying them even with soapy water.. The key here was using a hot blower for the windshield and windows, as soon as I applied heat the decals adapted incredibly well to the edges. Special mention to the lights frame, they supply two decals per light for that! A very weird one almost impossible to apply, I sweated like a pig and I am not happy with te result. Oh I forgot that also adding micron tape to the body was specially difficult, so many sharp curves! This is the final result: I used initially the Alfa Romero Giulia wheels, trying to mimic the ones in the product picture but the result was a bit dull, so I decided to use Tamiya 8 spokes and I think it looks perfect, like made on purpose. What I added to the kit: I wanted it to be a bit different from the stock kit, feeling a bit more realistic and sportive, so I did some custom decals. I found this website rajikaru.co.uk selling "Period Correct Japanese Decals and More!" and I made miniature versions of them to be used with my own Japanese car. I print them on white adhesive polyester paper using a laser printer and add them a UV coat. In this case I used all the remaining white space of the original decals as the UV coat because it is very thin and good. I did a number plate, fitting with the car category (55), I designed a custom sticker with a Bulldog picture and "Bulldog" written in Japanese because this car was used to be called bulldog because of its face, Also added a small "Safe Drive Tokyo" sticker to the intecooler bump and finally added an EBISU circuit sticker. I was tempted to add more stuff but I didn' t want it to start looking like a drifting car. Oh I almost forgot to mention that I did the same thing with the tires stickers, but these don't have the UC coat because they should look matte and these tires are just for the shelf. Driving the car: Boy, this thing is a blast.. I am using a 13.5T brushless motor and it's fast as crazy, but the handling, even on a dusty basketball field with hard slicks is amazing and I just set the car to the recommended settings no fine tuning. I totally recommend it. Well hope you like it guys, any questions are welcome.
  10. I was looking at how on the M-05 PRO, you can mount a Low-pro servo low down without the spacer. So I was thinking, is it the same to mount one one the M-06?
  11. Hello all, Well, the postal delivery folks brought me another eBay purchase today. I picked up what was advertised as a Tamiya M-05 chassis. It's a brand new roller chassis that's never been run, but completely assembled save for a steering servo, ESC, receiver, and tires. Not sure what I plan to do with this vehicle yet, but it was cheap so I snapped it up. However, after doing a bit of searching online (as you do) I've discovered that the wheels on the model itself look to be from the Tamiya 2006 Mini Cooper S (kit #58400), which used an M-03L chassis. Now, it's very likely the seller may have simply installed a spare set of wheels they had left from a different build, but it's now raised the question: how can I identify whether the chassis I've purchased is an M-03L or an M-05? Thanks in advance. Cheers! Michael
  12. As many of you have guessed, I'm a lover of all things Lancia. I've owned two Lancias. In high school I had a Lancia Beta Coupe *cue rust jokes*. And during college I bought and drove a Lancia Scorpion aka Montecarlo. The Coupe was fun, and I still tell the story about its rust nearly causing an accident. The Montecarlo was my true love, still to date my favorite car owned. I drove it for nearly a decade, eventually selling it as I needed air conditioning and it needed a proper repainting. I've been in love with all things Montecarlo since I saw the Lancia Rally stradale in the Bayless Fiat-Lancia parts catalog. From that I'd read many articles about the car. So as a Lancia fan, it's odd to say but the Stratos always comes second in my mind in spite of its accomplishments. I've owned more than a few 1/43 scale 037s, a few 1/24 scale Hasegawa, a pair of 1/24 Polisil models, and a 1/18th Kyosho. But the Tamiya 037 is the most interesting. Plus you can actually use it. My family was huge into Fiats and Lancia. Still is to a degree. Clockwise from bottom left: My 1976 Lancia Scorpion, Fiat 124 Coupe, my father's 77 Scorpion, 81 Beta Zagato (Spider), '80 Fiat 124 Spider ITB racecar, and another 124 Spider project car. So for me getting into RC in early 2013, it was quite timely that Tamiya should re-release the body in 2014. Unfortunately there is a bit of hunting required to piece together a working car. I did buy a TA03R, bought the new production belt from Germany and a R-S tub, built it... crashed it (minus bodyshell), rebuilt it. Then it annoyed me that the axles were always a little too wide in front. And the belt kept falling off on the back. The decision was made that I would sell the TA03R-S with the 911 GT1 shell I had that was useless because it was already cut... making duplication a daunting task. Then came the TA05. Originally you guessed it, it was for the Lancia 037 shell. Using the Porsche 911 GT2 body re-release instructions, I shortened the chassis. Again... front track way too wide even with extra thin hexes. If you've read this far, I think you know why I've decided on an M04 as the basis for this project. Additionally the supplied 037 wheels are simply too large in diameter for the body. This isn't surprising. Bearing in mind the body was originally designed for the ORV then redesigned to fit the TA03R-S. The reality is I'm grateful Tamiya made the re-releases. I now own enough bodies bought at a reasonable enough price, that I don't have to treat all of them as shelf queens. More to follow :-D The more you know factoid: Lancia Rally was the car's official designation. The 037 portion is an Abarth project number. And yes, the Group B Lancia Delta S4 is the Abarth 038.
  13. I thought I'd create a fairly comprehensive build thread for the (#58647) M07 chassis kit. It'll be pretty much as it is presented in the manual so this should be more helpful to beginners. I sold my M05 chassis to fund this purchase and I don't regret it for a second. The quality of this kit blows the M05 away in my opinion, as it should with the price difference and lacking some components. Having said that, it has things most people want to buy straight away, such as bearings and CVA dampers. Australia's RC-Mini.net posted on Facebook some in depth videos when the M07 was released. The newer chassis is supposed to be much easier to setup and to make adjustments on, as well as outright better performance. Looking through the manual it actually seems to be a very straight forward build. This will initially be built as it comes in the box. I haven't decided on tyres, motor, receiver, or even a servo for it at this point. The body will be a Tamiya Honda CRX I previously finished, so it will be built middle wheelbase. I am considering also getting a Tamiya Mazda 2/Demio to try the long wheelbase setting. A few points to note about the M07: The M07 features a TA06 gear differential. You get some blue aluminium bits in the box. No tyres, tyre inserts, motor, ESC, or body in the kit. There's no short wheelbase on this chassis. My workspace doesn't have the best lighting and I don't have a camera tripod so I'll experiment with improving the photos as I go. Questions or comments are welcomed! Step 1: Very simple start. Screws go underneath steering posts. Step 2: Putting together the differential. They're quite simple, not too fiddly. You will need: Trim the plastic from all the gears after removing them from the sprue. Here's photo of before. I trimmed them with a hobby knife. Why didn't I photo these on the green cutting mat? Lesson learned. Here's the after shot. Next put the cup joint into the diff half, then pop the o-ring over it. The Tamiya wrench tool is handy here to push it on evenly. Shim next. Now the shaft goes into the diff joint cup. There's a horizontal hole and the shaft isn't easy to adjust inside the diff case. I recommend using a pair of tweezers. Put the GV2 gear, lining up the recesses with the shaft. Other side of the diff is basically identical. Here's the finished product. Assemble the gears. Insert into diff case. Fill with diff fluid. The kit supplies #100,000 oil. You should fill to the level of the cross bar holding the gears. It's thick enough that it will just sit on top of the diff gears, so it looks over-filled in the photos. I slowly turned the diff joint cup to move it around the diff a bit. The manual shows an image of the oil being poured in, but its way too thick for that and they supply a small bottle that needs to be squeezed. Line up the gasket with the screw holes. Put the diff cover on. It will line up with the square notches in the gasket and other diff half. Screw the two halves together. I incrementally screw them in, using a cross pattern. Slide the bearings on and it's done. They can be a tight fit so keep them as even as possible when sliding them on to prevent them getting stuck.
  14. Hey folks, this is my first post to TamiyaClub and I wanted to share my cars. I have used this forum to figure what I wanted to build and to find out options for bodies etc over the last year or so and its really a great forum and resource. I wish that I was better at taking pictures while I build the bodies and the chassis but I end up being to focused and I forget to take pictures. I would have put this in the build section but its pretty much the finished cars. So being a big Porsche fan I wanted to get an RC car and at the same time Tamiya Released the 1/10th 40th Anniversary 934 Jagermiester. A great car and kit, I enjoyed the build but realized it was a dated layout and tech, and also really big. So after researching about Tamiya I found that there first cars were mostly Porsches and actually more like 1/12 scale and that the most recent similar and cost effective offering was the TamTech GT-01 Chassis. A nice RWD setup i picked up a few TamTech 935 RTR kits one to drive and crash with my son and a couple to keep / sell. The RWD proved to be fun with high grip but out of control on slick surfaces. So not wanting to spend more money to get older rare vintage and older tech, I started looking at M-Chassis to quickly learn they are all FWD or RWD and pretty entry level, except for 1 special limited edition version! So as quirky as it is, the TA05 M-Four was just what I wanted 4WD M Chassis that was a little "high end". The main downside is the tall height of the front shock towers as many 1/12th scale bodies are of cars with low lying hoods. (So all of my bodies sit as low as they can on the shock towers but oddly enough, works out being just the right height so far) Being Retail $600 was not what I wanted, but tamiyausa has it for $249 nowadays. I want to buy one more to keep since it is in fact limited edition! Tamiya 84255 TA05 M-Four Dynamite Basic Fwd Rev ESC Futaba Standard ball bearing servo Tamiya SPT Motor 380 Tactic Basic Receiver / Controller So after figuring the chassis out I was about to pull the trigger on 934 and 935 TamTech Bodies and original 934 and 935 plastic bodies I found available, but then learned that the 934 and 935 where on an even smaller wheel base than 210mm....So I re-started my search for bodies to find HPI Cup Racer 1/12th scale had 2 - 210mm wheel base bodies : Lancia Stratos and luckily '73 Carrera RSR! BAM!! Back on track to accomplish my mission of 1/12th scale Tamiya 4WD M Chassis Porsche! So I ordered the discontinued HPI Porsche body from Japan. It is very accurate with nice trims and accessories, but thinner flimsyier than Tamiya bodies, but thats ok, its still awesome! I also started looking again at Tamiya bodies as they are always super detailed and very sturdy. So I have a list now and I have accomplished 3 bodies with about another 5 left to obtain and paint: HPI Cup Racer Porsche Carrera RSR - Done Tamiya 1/12 Renault Alpine A110 - Done Tamiya 1/12 Honda S800 - Done Tamiya 1/12 Nissan Silvia S15 - Done Tamiya 1/12 Renault R5 Turbo - Next in line to complete and to make a scale replica of my own actual 1984 R5 Turbo Red - Need to Find! Tamiya 1/12 Fiat Abarth 1000 TCR - Next in line to complete and currently available for little more than i want to spend around $200-$300 for body. But super awesome with engine hanging out of the back!! Tamiya 1/12 Porsche 959 - Hard to find and very pricey - awesome none the less and required for my Porsche collection!!! I will do this one after I do a Renault R5 Turbo Tamiya 1/12 Toyota Celica Group B - Even harder to find than the 959 and I love Toyota so I hope to find this one at a reasonable price and build also. And on to the rest of the pics! 1973 Porsche 911 Carrera RSR - Burnt Orange - 3mm Front Wheels - 6mm Rear Wheels : HPI Cup Racer 8 Spoke MX60 1971 Renault Alpine A110 - Corsa Grey - 0mm Front Wheels - 3mm Rear Wheels : HPI Cup Racer 8 Spoke MX60 1965 Honda S800 - Metallic Black - 3mm Front Wheels - 3mm Rear Wheels : HPI Cup Racer 8 Spoke MX60 Nissan Silvia S15 - Pink Gold Irridescent PS47 - 6mm Yokomo T6R Wheels Thanks for looking and any comments are appreciated.
  15. I intend to use this body for speed runs. This body will eventually get destroyed. I am not going for perfection or master modeler status here. I got the body from SabulaTech on eBay. It was listed as an error body, and only cost $7.99 USD. The error on the body was at the bottom of the shell in the back, and I planned to cut that part off anyways. So, at that price, I figured why not experiment. I picked up two of this body and one of another style. My idea was to make it fit an M-chassis with a heat gun, and see what happens. Maybe there's something to learn here about reshaping poly-carbonate bodies. I may make a second attempt at this using a mold that I am working on from a block of wood. I do have plans to get an RM-01, so I may save the other error bodies that I got for that. Here's how the body sat on top of the M-05. The body is resting on the top of the shocks. I screwed the back of the body down to a board. I used random objects as spacers to keep the chassis from rolling backwards, which also kept it lined up with the wheelbase. I rested a somewhat heavy book on the uncut part of the shell. My idea was that the weight of the book would pull the body down as the heat gun softened the body. I used a damp towel to keep the heat from going where I didn't want it to go. I used the heat gun on a low setting and now know that this step was unnecessary because the heat wasn't that extreme. I made a video of the heat gun process showing the body coming down. The entire video was 12 minutes long. I shorted it down to about 3 minutes. The audio is off, but it's just the sound of a heat gun. When I was finished, the shocks were not too hot to hold. They had some heat, but nothing that would cause damage to the chassis. As I said, the heat gun was on low, which is rated at about 350 degrees. For the last few seconds, I did run it on high, but over a larger area. Here's how it looked afterwards. It now looks like a Sting Ray, which was the decider of my color choice. I expected the body to sit lower than it did once trimmed. I now know to pull the body down further if I am to attempt this again. I also expected it to melt down and bubble out in a much bigger area. I did not expect it to take the exact shape of the top of the shocks. I've started carving away at a block of wood that I may use as a mold for the second attempt. My thinking is that this will give a much bigger spread, rather than taking the shape of the parts around it. Trimmed: M-05 rear body mounts did not clear the body. I has some extra body mounts on hand, and drilled and screwed them into the rear bulkhead for the droop screws. The front mounts are M-05. And a quick spray of Tamiya Gun Metal paint. I'm going to run it like this and see how it does. If I can improve on it by making a front spoiler to get rid of some of that ground clearance, I may do so.
  16. I'm looking for one of these. Especially the shell. If you have one unbuilt that is perfect. If you have just the shell and it's still recognizable, I'd like to buy it in any condition. If you have just the chassis, I might even buy that. I really love this car. Thanks Gary.
  17. For sale, my entire collection of M01 and M02 parts. I once gathered all this for a failed idea to go racing with an M01, and now it's been gathering dust. Not everything is in the best of shape, but there are a few new sprues, and two whole good long-wheelbase nose sections. What you get: - 2 almost-new long wheelbase nose sections - 2 complete D-parts - 1 C-parts without steering knuckle (part C5 is seperate, but present) - 3 x left and 3x right main chassis parts in good shape - 2 x gearbox halves left and right in poor shape - 1 steering link assembly - 6 battery stoppers - 3 battery 'wings' and some misc small bits like body posts and such I'd prefer not to split the set. If you want we can always negotiate about making a set of parts. Asking price for the whole thing: €40, ex. shipping from The Netherlands.
  18. Hi, I'm having a clear out of my Tamiya M05s. I really haven't used the cars, but this is still a reluctant sale. The price may seem high, but for it all new it would be around £1,000! M05 Pro: Fantastic condition, used a handful of times, like new! Tamiya Carbon Front Damper Stay Tamiya Blue Alloy Front Hubs 3Racung BlueAlloy C Hubs Tamiya Universal Shafts 3Racing Differential Tamiya Ball Bearings 3Racing Blue Alloy Steering Link Tamiya Blue Alloy Steering Set Tamiya Silver Alloy Steering Posts (Slight Issue with screw, doesn't effect steering) Tamiya Alloy Rear Hubs Tamiya Stabiliser Kit Carbon Rear Damper Stay Tamiya BlueAlloy Motor Mount 3Racing Blue Alloy Motor Heatsink TRF Bronze Dampers (Not Silver Dampers pictured on car) Electronics: Savox 1251 Servo Hobbywing Xerun 60a 2S ESC Hobbywing Programming Box Hobbywing Ezrun 13t Motor Tamiya TRF Bronze Dampers (Not Silver Dampers pictured on car) M05RA: Great Condition, fairly new gears and shafts, not used often. Ball Bearings 3Racing Universal Joints 3Racing Alloy Motor Mount 3Racing Alloy Steering Set Electronics: LRP Spin Super ESC HPI Flux Motor 13.5t Futaba Servo (Please not, Oil Dampers on the front of the M05RA are not included) M05: Good condition, spare car, hasn't been used much by me. 1 Crack on front of chassis, doesn't effect performance. Tamiya Silver M03 Alloy Front Hubs Tamiya New Driveshafts Tamiya TRF Bronze Dampers Ball Bearings 3Racjng Alloy Rear Hubs Electronics: Savox Water Proof Servo Podium Brushed ESC HPI Saturn 20t Motor Spares: Carbon Front Bumper x4 Front Wishbones x1 Rear Wishbone x4 Friction Dampers x4 Roll Bars x1 Steering Bar x1 M03 Battery Holder x3 M05 Front Uprights x1 M03 Front Ipright x3 M05 Rear Hubs x2 M03 Rear Hubs x1 M05 Rear Suspension Block x3 M05 C Hubs x2 M03 C Hubs x7 M05 Rear Suspension Mounts x1 M05 Battery Holder x1 M05 Front Bumper x2 M05 Electrics Trays x1 Transponder Holder x4 Battery Bars x1 Compete Chassis Set minus Right Side x1 B Parts (Minus a Plastic motor mount) x2 C Parts (Minus a few parts) x1 3Racing Ball diff x2 Standard Tamiya Diff x1 Spare Gear x4 Bushings Shells: Tamiya Swift S1600: Good condition, few scuffs, minor cracks (under 1cm) Blitz Mini C30: Raced condition, paint scuffed under tape and 2 cracks over arches (Still useable though) Blitz Mini RS4 (Spider-Man): Shoo-Gooed and sticker under the paint on inside. No cracks. HPI Blue Mini: Used once, well painted, 1 dent. Looks great on a car, stripes painted not stickers. HPI Flame Mini: Shoo-gooed, race condition, glitter in paint, flames painted not stickers. Wheels: 1 Set of used Grey Minilite wheels, Tamiya Tyres. 1 Set of used 3Racing wheels with Tamiya Tyres. 1 Pair of used Sweep wheels and tyres 1 Set of new Sweep Racing Wheels in Packet. 1 Set of used Tamiya Rally blocks on Swift Wheels (On M05RA) Also: Etronix Stick Transmitter (Great Condition) Etronix Receiver (Case around bottom cracked and stuck back together, works fine). Tamiya M05 Manual (please note, the Spektrem receivers pictures are not included.) Will not split unless the price is right. £520 (ono) collected (will post, but due to vast amount of stuff I would rather it collected!) Thanks for reading Sam
  19. hi all , i have long wanted a 1/10 RWD rally car or more specifically a MK1 ford escort , i was planning on building a chassis from scratch using the gearbox from a 2WD buggy and a carbon chassis plate but, that's still in the works, in the mean time i came across a modified M04 chassis on a forum somewhere , it looked real easy and cheap to do so i thought what the hang lets give it a go, i ordered some TL01 suspension arms and set too, its an easy mod ,you will also need two lots of the chassis extenders, i had some in the box of muchness , i had some 42mm dogbones laying around in the bitz boxes too , they should be 39mm with 'o'rings but the 42's are fine if you leave the 'o'rings out of the drive cups , one small issue i came across were the front shock lower spring cup was fowling wishbones , i used some longer shock rod ends to overcome the issue , no biggy, i may have to adjust the wheelbase slightly but that will have to wait until the shell gets here , i haven't run it yet as i am waiting for the ESC and RX to arrive . i will update this thread as i get the parts and time to bring it all together and tune the handling to get it to drift as realistically as i can
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