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Found 18 results

  1. Prior to my ownership this was used in a few races, the body is banged up but the chassis isnt in bad shape, it has bearings in the wheel hubs. You will only need a battery/receiver to drive it. I'd like $120 but I am willing to negogiate.
  2. All items below are $20 a piece, but I am willing to make combo deals. If you are interested in any of my items please PM for pictures and more info. Pro Super Mini Shocks = These are the transparent shocks from an M06 Pro chassis with black springs, they do leak so they will require rebuilding before being driven or use for a shelf queen. I've used them only a few times. Used Foam Tires/Wheels = These are a used set of tires glued to their rims, one has some wear but the others aren't half bad. Two M03 Chassis = Both of these chassis are the bare front/rear halfs, they have their share of scuffs but no cracks. Included are part trees with hubs, servo savers, etc.
  3. I had a late start to my Iconic Cup prep this year, as I'd been focussing on other things, having a non-RC weekend break and doing some crawler events. I ran a couple of CWICs rounds in the winter (see this thread) and performed woefully, achieving the bottom spot in the first 3 events, missing the next because my wife booked me a birthday meal, and deciding not to bother with the last one at all. In fact, it was the Weds before the race weekend when I dragged my battered old M03 out of the box and started putting on all the bits that I'd taken off to make the M05 run last year. This car originally came to me from another TC member over 10 years ago, stock apart from bearings and an Acto Pink motor. Originally it was a Suzuki Wagon RR, but that body (and the NIB one that came with it) have been sold on. For a long time I raced this in the local clubman M-chassis class, which only permitted bearings, oil shocks and tyres, so apart from a lovely set of alloy shocks (can't actually remember if they're TRF or 3Racing) and a Tamiya spring set, it's bone stock, and has always been so. Last year I added a set of toe-in rear hubs off my FF02, which are a big improvement on cooler outdoor tracks, and after speaking to a local M-chassis champeen I decided I would pack the diff with Blu-Tac to stiffen it right up ready for practice day on Saturday. Now, those who followed my Yaris thread will know I had an issue with running the wrong tyres. For a quick recap: When I raced at my local carpet club, I bought a set of Sweep tyres. As far as I recall, they were just Sweep tyres - nobody said anything about the temperature / compound. I raced them for years, but after a few Iconic Cup rounds on tarmac, the fronts wore right down to the foam. In 2019 (or possibly earlier, I forget) I bought a new set of Sweeps, and didn't bother to check the compound / temp. I knew they were 25s as that's what I wrote on the inside of them, but I don't think I knew why I bought 25s or why it mattered. I tried them on the car during some tarmac Iconic Cup rounds, but always went back to the old tyres, as the new ones just wouldn't work for me. I put the new ones on last winter to race at CWICs, and (after a whole day of uncontrollable spinning) I learned that I needed 33s front and 25s rear, so I fitted the old, worn set of 33s up front and went out to drive an acceptable race (albeit too late to qualify for any points). Next time out at CWICs I decided I wouldn't fit the worn, foam-showing 33s I had at the previous meet, instead I'd put the old rears on, which I had bought at the same time and must, therefore, also be 33s. I had a horrible time with carpet pickup, pretty much had a miserable, miserable day spinning around at the back of the field, and went home wishing I hadn't bothered in the first place. Fast-forward to last Weds, when I pulled the Yaris out of the box to take the tyres and shocks off. It was then that I spotted something: an old, faded, red felt tip marking inside the old tyres: 25. So, in actual fact, I had been running 33/25 all along. I have absolutely no recollection of having bought 2 sets of tyres (or even a mixed bag of 2 pairs), but obviously I must have done, otherwise they wouldn't have different numbers in them. It's possible that the club bought and split the bags to keep starting costs down (in those days Mini was the entry-level class, although most of us Mini competitors had been racing touring for a while and got fed up with it). I must even have known about it, otherwise it was blind luck what corner each tyre would end up on - but again, I have no recollection of this. So - this left me with only one pair of 33s which were long past their best. A quick order from Racecraft R/C with the message "for collection at Iconic Cup, Mendip" and I was assured of the right tyres for the big event. Or so I thought.
  4. I SHOULD know this... But my lifetime of experience started with Buggies, including Semi-Pro Racing, then in recent years, RC Scaler/Crawlers - where Foam choice is CRITICAL, due to enormous soft Tires!! But these little M Chassis Cars..... They don't weigh much, and I'm not doing any competition beyond a little weekend Club Racing. Do People even USE Foams in M Chassis Cars?? 😲 If so, I'd imagine that something very firm would be useless. I've got some fairly soft Tires, and would not want the Tread bowing out, killing traction! I've had a M01 two M03s, and a M04. All with bog standard Tires, felt HARD, no Foams. I hope you can help! 😉
  5. Greetings Friends!! My Build Thread is in the "Builds" Section... I've been foolishly building a Street/MILD Rally M05 Kit..... But I've been doing it - PIECEMEAL, over the past year. Sometimes the Heart wants what it wants. I really kicked myself for selling my 3 M Chassis Cars. Broke as a joke (literally), I've been slowly gathering bits, including hopups. Over 90% there now...... But there's two things that have me against the Wall. First is inner Diff Cups - the kind with the apparently unpopular Oval shaped shafts, that go into the Diff. (NOT the Splined ones) The second, and MUCH harder to find, the two Shafts that the Transmission Gears ride on. The sizes are - 5x21mm and 5x40mm. I do not know if they have part numbers. I'm hoping that some, even ONE of you, got Carbon Fiber Shafts, and don't need the Steel Kit Shafts. I'm in a pretty bad way, mostly Disabled and BROKE at a level that 99% of People don't even believe is that BAD. If you also have spares... I'm going to need Wheels and Tires, Steering Arms (at least the threaded bits in the middle. I've got Rod Ends), 18T and/or 20T Pinion Gears, 2X10mm Axle Pins, ESC, and the long Rod for the Servo to Bellcrank Link. IF you have any of those items, I would really appreciate it! What's more important are the first two items. I truly hope you are all doing well. Life can get you out of nowhere! Please stay vigilant. Carmine
  6. As the title reveals, this nice looking Suzuki Swift will turn in a couple of months to a 1:1 match of my Fabia vRS 2003. Today is the day it arrived, new from www.TAMICO.de first thing I had to do, change the tamiya plug to a T plug and glue the tires to the rims. As always using the Protec tire glue, medium strong. The car is equipped with a Tamiya Expec SP 27MHz transmitter, Tamiya TRU-01 reciever, Tamiya TSU-01 sero and a 540 Johnson racing silver can, only untill my Sanwa MX-V reciever arrives. Prepared electronics are vintage LRP stuff, LRP GT2 17Tx2 motor (29.000rpm) ideal FDR 6.10 LRP 80A Runner Plus Reverse ESC (17T Limit) LRP 5000mAh 6cell NiMh Servo will be from Sanwa collecion, not decided yet. Parts orderd are: -3 Racing speed gears -Tamiya 53390 Carbon hollow gear shafts -Tamiya 22T Pinion 0.6Modul -Yeah Racing Ball bearings -Yeah Racing adjustable oil shocks (55mm) -Yeah Racing CVD -2x Types of touring car wheels (realistic MST 24mm and Tamiya slicks with 5 spoke rims 24mm) -Yeah Racing 6mm hex -Tamiya 53345 Optional Toe In rear hubs -Colt 1/12 Fabia WRC body (a vRS is not really a WRC, but I will put my effor in it to make it look realistic) my car. Basically the most work I will put into the body, probably edit some stickers, make some new ones. the mechanical part is basically swap in swap out.
  7. Hi, Been searching for the Tech Racing Aero parts for a while, decided to make them myself :-) Here's a start for the rear wing part 1 Version 1 Version 2 - adjustable rear wing
  8. Hey folks, this is my first post to TamiyaClub and I wanted to share my cars. I have used this forum to figure what I wanted to build and to find out options for bodies etc over the last year or so and its really a great forum and resource. I wish that I was better at taking pictures while I build the bodies and the chassis but I end up being to focused and I forget to take pictures. I would have put this in the build section but its pretty much the finished cars. So being a big Porsche fan I wanted to get an RC car and at the same time Tamiya Released the 1/10th 40th Anniversary 934 Jagermiester. A great car and kit, I enjoyed the build but realized it was a dated layout and tech, and also really big. So after researching about Tamiya I found that there first cars were mostly Porsches and actually more like 1/12 scale and that the most recent similar and cost effective offering was the TamTech GT-01 Chassis. A nice RWD setup i picked up a few TamTech 935 RTR kits one to drive and crash with my son and a couple to keep / sell. The RWD proved to be fun with high grip but out of control on slick surfaces. So not wanting to spend more money to get older rare vintage and older tech, I started looking at M-Chassis to quickly learn they are all FWD or RWD and pretty entry level, except for 1 special limited edition version! So as quirky as it is, the TA05 M-Four was just what I wanted 4WD M Chassis that was a little "high end". The main downside is the tall height of the front shock towers as many 1/12th scale bodies are of cars with low lying hoods. (So all of my bodies sit as low as they can on the shock towers but oddly enough, works out being just the right height so far) Being Retail $600 was not what I wanted, but tamiyausa has it for $249 nowadays. I want to buy one more to keep since it is in fact limited edition! Tamiya 84255 TA05 M-Four Dynamite Basic Fwd Rev ESC Futaba Standard ball bearing servo Tamiya SPT Motor 380 Tactic Basic Receiver / Controller So after figuring the chassis out I was about to pull the trigger on 934 and 935 TamTech Bodies and original 934 and 935 plastic bodies I found available, but then learned that the 934 and 935 where on an even smaller wheel base than 210mm....So I re-started my search for bodies to find HPI Cup Racer 1/12th scale had 2 - 210mm wheel base bodies : Lancia Stratos and luckily '73 Carrera RSR! BAM!! Back on track to accomplish my mission of 1/12th scale Tamiya 4WD M Chassis Porsche! So I ordered the discontinued HPI Porsche body from Japan. It is very accurate with nice trims and accessories, but thinner flimsyier than Tamiya bodies, but thats ok, its still awesome! I also started looking again at Tamiya bodies as they are always super detailed and very sturdy. So I have a list now and I have accomplished 3 bodies with about another 5 left to obtain and paint: HPI Cup Racer Porsche Carrera RSR - Done Tamiya 1/12 Renault Alpine A110 - Done Tamiya 1/12 Honda S800 - Done Tamiya 1/12 Nissan Silvia S15 - Done Tamiya 1/12 Renault R5 Turbo - Next in line to complete and to make a scale replica of my own actual 1984 R5 Turbo Red - Need to Find! Tamiya 1/12 Fiat Abarth 1000 TCR - Next in line to complete and currently available for little more than i want to spend around $200-$300 for body. But super awesome with engine hanging out of the back!! Tamiya 1/12 Porsche 959 - Hard to find and very pricey - awesome none the less and required for my Porsche collection!!! I will do this one after I do a Renault R5 Turbo Tamiya 1/12 Toyota Celica Group B - Even harder to find than the 959 and I love Toyota so I hope to find this one at a reasonable price and build also. And on to the rest of the pics! 1973 Porsche 911 Carrera RSR - Burnt Orange - 3mm Front Wheels - 6mm Rear Wheels : HPI Cup Racer 8 Spoke MX60 1971 Renault Alpine A110 - Corsa Grey - 0mm Front Wheels - 3mm Rear Wheels : HPI Cup Racer 8 Spoke MX60 1965 Honda S800 - Metallic Black - 3mm Front Wheels - 3mm Rear Wheels : HPI Cup Racer 8 Spoke MX60 Nissan Silvia S15 - Pink Gold Irridescent PS47 - 6mm Yokomo T6R Wheels Thanks for looking and any comments are appreciated.
  9. Over a year ago I decided to start a Street Scorcher project after finishing a Sand Scorcher build. One night I popped two Street Rover rear wheels under a Sand Scorcher body and really liked the look. I posted in the What Have You Done Today forum a little, but never started a build thread. So, here I am doing just that. I settled on the M03 chassis for the build. I've done a bit over the last year - created a custom mid section for the M03 to stretch it to a 250mm wheelbase designed a mag-mounting system for the body designed custom front wheels and rear hub caps worked on a roof scoop modified my own Shapeways-printed Sand Scorcher engine for the M03 chassis. I'll go through the build step-by-step properly, but for today this was the look that got me motivated to start this build: S2
  10. which, if any, of the m kits can be set up short enough to fit a 190-200mm wheelbase body?
  11. Just thought I'd share some pics of my entry into this year's Iconic Cup event. It's a M03, running a sport tuned motor, hobbywing 1060 esc, 4200mah lipo. Hop ups include 3racing shocks, toe in rear uprights, fully ballraced, front cvd's. Body is an ABC Hobby Honda City Turbo, with a mixture of the ABC and Tamiya Willys Wheeler decals.
  12. I try to race at one of the local clubs at least once a week, we don't have a club in the town where I live, but there are three or four within 30 miles radius. There's a bunch of four or five of us that usually descend on the chosen club of the evening, and we try not to cause too much trouble. However sometimes its just just much more fun to take something to race that's a little bit less serious than the latest 1/10 competition touring car, so we've started racing our older cars. It came about as we were reminiscing about the old cars that were still hanging around in the lofts and sheds. My first proper car was a TA01 tiger strip Escort Cosworth, and I still have it, sort of. It's a bit like triggers broom and only a handful of parts are original. It's still great fun to drive tho, and very forgiving. Thats mine on the left wearing the Cavalier body, and my mates TA02 wearing a Carson Astra body. They looks really good as they tussle, pitching violently into each corner. They are nowhere near as composed as a modern chassis, but much more forgiving. We are using old 27t stock motors as the track is quite small and has a ban on brushless to keep the speeds down. This isn't a bad thing per se, as it means the cars are having a relatively gentle time. More recently, I tried one of my FF01s there, it was great but the old plastic seems to be very brittle and I broke the front gearbox. It was good while I lasted tho. Ill get more pics when we try to take things less seriously. But we still end up having good racing.
  13. SimonSez

    WTB M-04

    As it states, i am looking for M-04 stuff. I am mainly looking for chassis pieces but I am interested in anything M-04. Rollers, NIB kts, spare chassis sections, hit me up with what you have. I have been trying to track down parts for some time now, is it just me or is the M-04 stuff incredibly hard to find now. Nothing on eBay save for a couple NIB kits going for several hundred. Are these really worth that kind of money, and am I SOL on trying to find these parts? Thanks in advanced!
  14. I've started work on an M03-based Sand Scorcher street-rod. I designed a simple M03 extension to get the wheelbase up to 248mm for my project. (Yes - I know the Scorcher is 250mm, but this is what I needed for the body to fit right) I'm gonna link below to an Instagram post where I created a short video of the new extension vs. the stock one and how it fits. Part is in my Shapeways shop... https://www.shapeways.com/product/FNJSEXCHZ/tamiya-m03-extension-for-the-sand-scorcher-body?optionId=61674003
  15. So it's been a fair few years since I did any kind of racing blog. In fact, it's been a while since I've raced at all. Apart from a few friendly one-day events in the summer, my RC life has been about custom projects and open bashing, but I've spent the last few Mondays hanging around at the local track chatting to some friends in the pits, and I figured, if I'm going to go to the effort of going to the track, I might as well take my Mini along and do some racing. My local club (WWMCC) has recently opened a new Mini class called Mini Clubman. It's designed to pull the Mini class back and stop it from becoming Touring Cars in 1:12 scale; when I gave up racing about a year ago, the M05 arms race was starting to get crazy and my ageing M03 was getting left behind. And if anyone turned up with an M06, well... it was game over for everybody else! So the open Mini category still exists (M-chassis size, front or rear wheel drive, Saturn 20 motor, otherwise totally unlimited), but the new Mini Clubman category is much more proscriptive: Standard M03 or M05 stock chassis Ball bearings Saturn 20 motor Sweep tyres Tamiya TRF shocks Open diff Otherwise, everything must be totally stock - no toe-in uprights or fancy adjustable turnbuckles or rigid alloy components. It's had quite an impact on laptimes, and it's changed everyone's driving style - especially going back to open diffs. It's interesting to see people going into corners on neutral throttle and powering out hard, whereas previously they were going in under throttle and staying on all the way round. Thinking that this sounds like a good way of passing my Monday evenings, I figured I'd clean up my old M03 and get "back to the track" I dimly remembered that my M03 was handling like a pig last time I raced it. I knew I wasn't far from taking a short-term retirement from racing anyway, and I'd probably come back with a new car when I returned, so I never bothered to look into it. Since then the car's shocks got borrowed for my wedding truck and it's been sat on the shelf looking very sorry for itself. So it was time for a bit of TLC. The shell isn't looking too bad for a car that completed a winter season and a one-day championship, and I didn't have time to cut and paint another, so I gave it a quick dust-over and thumbed off some rubber marks. I like to have a new shell every season but I've left it a bit late this year. Next I pulled the shocks off Project Ringpull. I don't have anything to replace them with, so Project Ringpull is now resting its transmission plate on a TLT tyre until I can get around to making some leaf springs. I'd adjusted the shocks out totally for Project Ringpull, but it only took half a minute to set them back to base for an M03 carpet racer (full soft on the rear, full hard on the front). Then I turned my attention to the M03 itself. It was clear to see that both front arms and one rear arm weren't moving smoothly. This is actually a very old M03, a rare gunmetal chassis traded from a member in Belgium and originally sitting under a Suzuki Wagon RR. I had a problem with seized arms before, after running it outside in the rain and then leaving it on the shelf for a year. All the arms came off and got washed - carpet racing makes for a real mess! The CVDs up front (not sure if they're legal in the Clubman class but they're all I've got) are looking the worse for wear, as are the outdrives, so once I've confirmed the rules I'll be ordering replacements. The stiffness problem in the arms was, again, down to rusted hinge pins. I got the worst of the rust off with some fine abrasive and then hand-polished then with a finishing compound - not a perfect solution but my machine shop is currently full of furniture (we're having some work done on our house) and I can't get to any of the power tools. I couldn't find any Tamiya assembly grease but I did find a pot of AW grease, which is sticky enough to coat the pins and gives a nice fluid feel to the suspension. Everything was reassembled and checked for smooth motion without binding before the shocks and wheels went back on. Here I can vent a matter of annoyance - I'd had a set of alloy locking wheel hexes in my Ebay watchlist for months, and last month I finally took the plunge and ordered 10 packs. There's few things more annoying than a hex getting stuck in a wheel and a drive pin falling out under the bench somewhere... Except these cheap hexes appear to have lock screws made of cheese, which are nowhere near strong enough to clamp the hex down over the pin before the head of the screw gets chewed up. Rant rant rant rant rant, worse than it was before, rant, should have gone with Tamiya, rant, waste of money, rant, waited for those for two weeks, rant, been on my watch list since February, rant... Anyway... I'd previously raced with a cheap Acoms servo, the ubiquitous comes-with-a-radio-set servo. Recently a batch of cheap servos arrived from HobbyKing, and I was pleased with the Trackstar servo in my TT02D, so I lobbed one into the M03. Must be better than the Acoms, although I'll probably have to dial in some expo as it's about 6 times as fast Still running with an ancient ESC (it actually came with the car years back), no LiPo cutoff but that's OK because I know my packs will last 3 rounds. All I have to do now is find my transponder and go racing another ridiculously long-winded post to follow tomorrow morning after my return to the track is done
  16. Can anyone recomment a 2s Lipo for an M03 with bullet connectors that fit into the top of the back? I've been using my hardcase stick packs in racing but recently two packs have been damaged and will no longer charge. Because the wires come out the end of the battery, they're liable to get bashed when racing. The main power wires have lost their protective sheath so I'll need to repair them properly before they can be run again, but worse, the balance wires have broken away from the electrodes inside so the packs won't balance. I'll have to try to resolder them without damaging the cells. Years ago, most M03 racers used to use a rounded stick pack with bullet connectors that fitted from the top, keeping them out of harms way. This would be perfect, not only for M03s but also many other vintage Tamiyas where a LiPo stick pack doesn't quite want to fit properly, or where the wires have to be badly kinked to squeeze them in. But in all my searching, I can't find any like that any more. Are they still available? Any other advice for racing an M03 with LiPos? We're not allowed to modify the chassis to fit square packs and we're not allowed to use soft-case LiPos.
  17. Hi, I'm having a clear out of my Tamiya M05s. I really haven't used the cars, but this is still a reluctant sale. The price may seem high, but for it all new it would be around £1,000! M05 Pro: Fantastic condition, used a handful of times, like new! Tamiya Carbon Front Damper Stay Tamiya Blue Alloy Front Hubs 3Racung BlueAlloy C Hubs Tamiya Universal Shafts 3Racing Differential Tamiya Ball Bearings 3Racing Blue Alloy Steering Link Tamiya Blue Alloy Steering Set Tamiya Silver Alloy Steering Posts (Slight Issue with screw, doesn't effect steering) Tamiya Alloy Rear Hubs Tamiya Stabiliser Kit Carbon Rear Damper Stay Tamiya BlueAlloy Motor Mount 3Racing Blue Alloy Motor Heatsink TRF Bronze Dampers (Not Silver Dampers pictured on car) Electronics: Savox 1251 Servo Hobbywing Xerun 60a 2S ESC Hobbywing Programming Box Hobbywing Ezrun 13t Motor Tamiya TRF Bronze Dampers (Not Silver Dampers pictured on car) M05RA: Great Condition, fairly new gears and shafts, not used often. Ball Bearings 3Racing Universal Joints 3Racing Alloy Motor Mount 3Racing Alloy Steering Set Electronics: LRP Spin Super ESC HPI Flux Motor 13.5t Futaba Servo (Please not, Oil Dampers on the front of the M05RA are not included) M05: Good condition, spare car, hasn't been used much by me. 1 Crack on front of chassis, doesn't effect performance. Tamiya Silver M03 Alloy Front Hubs Tamiya New Driveshafts Tamiya TRF Bronze Dampers Ball Bearings 3Racjng Alloy Rear Hubs Electronics: Savox Water Proof Servo Podium Brushed ESC HPI Saturn 20t Motor Spares: Carbon Front Bumper x4 Front Wishbones x1 Rear Wishbone x4 Friction Dampers x4 Roll Bars x1 Steering Bar x1 M03 Battery Holder x3 M05 Front Uprights x1 M03 Front Ipright x3 M05 Rear Hubs x2 M03 Rear Hubs x1 M05 Rear Suspension Block x3 M05 C Hubs x2 M03 C Hubs x7 M05 Rear Suspension Mounts x1 M05 Battery Holder x1 M05 Front Bumper x2 M05 Electrics Trays x1 Transponder Holder x4 Battery Bars x1 Compete Chassis Set minus Right Side x1 B Parts (Minus a Plastic motor mount) x2 C Parts (Minus a few parts) x1 3Racing Ball diff x2 Standard Tamiya Diff x1 Spare Gear x4 Bushings Shells: Tamiya Swift S1600: Good condition, few scuffs, minor cracks (under 1cm) Blitz Mini C30: Raced condition, paint scuffed under tape and 2 cracks over arches (Still useable though) Blitz Mini RS4 (Spider-Man): Shoo-Gooed and sticker under the paint on inside. No cracks. HPI Blue Mini: Used once, well painted, 1 dent. Looks great on a car, stripes painted not stickers. HPI Flame Mini: Shoo-gooed, race condition, glitter in paint, flames painted not stickers. Wheels: 1 Set of used Grey Minilite wheels, Tamiya Tyres. 1 Set of used 3Racing wheels with Tamiya Tyres. 1 Pair of used Sweep wheels and tyres 1 Set of new Sweep Racing Wheels in Packet. 1 Set of used Tamiya Rally blocks on Swift Wheels (On M05RA) Also: Etronix Stick Transmitter (Great Condition) Etronix Receiver (Case around bottom cracked and stuck back together, works fine). Tamiya M05 Manual (please note, the Spektrem receivers pictures are not included.) Will not split unless the price is right. £520 (ono) collected (will post, but due to vast amount of stuff I would rather it collected!) Thanks for reading Sam
  18. finally dug out my old but little used m03L bmw mini from my storeroom. read a few guides on the web on things i could do with it. some online shopping at stella and my local tamiya agent. The result is 1 m03 rear wheel drive conversion 2 sand scorcher body + wild ceptor wheels n tyres pictures and steps coming up soonest!
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