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Found 12 results

  1. Project Start: 2023 Chassis - M-04L / M-06L / M-08L / TBD Body - Tamiya Honda S2000 / Mazda Mx5 Electrics - TBD Paint - TBD Tamiya PS Ambitions - DIY livery / Decals - Functioning driving lights with brake. - Build and 3D print front & lamp buckets - Build and 3D print Hardtop? - Source Lexan hardtop from Tamiya’s Mazda Eunos MX5 A Honda S2000 inspired build by spoon sports for the Super N1 Taikyu Endurance Racing Series. Some notable races that Spoon as a company has participated over the years and finished with a win were - - Super Tayiku ST-4 class championship -24h of Nurburgring -24h from Tokachi -25 from Thunderhill - 9h Tsukuba Fun FACT: The name of Spoon, comes from the famous curve with the shape of a "spoon" (Spoon in English) of the Suzuka Circuit. The first generation of s2000 cars remained mainly unchanged visually from exterior which I always liked other then the hardtop, fuel cell and livery. Their later cars came with aggressive bodywork which I like too but would be much harder to do, a future project plan for sure!
  2. I SHOULD know this... But my lifetime of experience started with Buggies, including Semi-Pro Racing, then in recent years, RC Scaler/Crawlers - where Foam choice is CRITICAL, due to enormous soft Tires!! But these little M Chassis Cars..... They don't weigh much, and I'm not doing any competition beyond a little weekend Club Racing. Do People even USE Foams in M Chassis Cars?? 😲 If so, I'd imagine that something very firm would be useless. I've got some fairly soft Tires, and would not want the Tread bowing out, killing traction! I've had a M01 two M03s, and a M04. All with bog standard Tires, felt HARD, no Foams. I hope you can help! 😉
  3. All items below are $20 a piece, but I am willing to make combo deals. If you are interested in any of my items please PM for pictures and more info. Pro Super Mini Shocks = These are the transparent shocks from an M06 Pro chassis with black springs, they do leak so they will require rebuilding before being driven or use for a shelf queen. I've used them only a few times. Used Foam Tires/Wheels = These are a used set of tires glued to their rims, one has some wear but the others aren't half bad. Two M03 Chassis = Both of these chassis are the bare front/rear halfs, they have their share of scuffs but no cracks. Included are part trees with hubs, servo savers, etc.
  4. Would like to buy an MX5 bodyshell kit . The rounded hard top version. Prefer uncut and with full accessories and stickers but would consider others.
  5. Having injured my back at work earlier this month, I'm currently stuck at home in "recovery" for the next three months. I'm pretty much immobile and getting bored, so I've decided to put this together to pass some of the time: The idea is go all out with the chassis, and make something functional yet still aesthetically pleasing. As stated in the thread title, it's going to be an M06RS, since it will have a 210mm wheelbase, but enough mods to garner the "R" designation. Oh, and I'm going to make it 8mm wider as well Haven't any idea how this will effect handling, but my primary aim is to fill the wheel arches better than the stock configuration seems to offer. A sample of the hop-ups I'll be using: As you can see, most of it is standard Tamiya stuff, with a few other aftermarket makers thrown in for good measure. Not all of it mind you, but this might give you an idea of how methodically I've been planning this build!
  6. Building upon the "M06 (Better late than never)" thread which was started by me one YEAR ago (gulp!), I finally found the time and motivation to lay out the build thread for the M06 chassis that I built sometime back in 2020. Who knew the title of that thread would be such an accurate foreshadow! Better late than never indeed lol. This is pretty much an "everything but the kitchen sink" kind of build, where I wanted an M06, but was disappointed by how plasticky and cheap-looking it looked in stock form. Hence, I spent more than 3 times the cost of the kit in hop up options, some that make sense, and some I just found interesting. As is my unfortunate habit, this build does not have a body yet, it's just a naked chassis until I get around to starting/finishing the Porsche 911 body that I recently bought to place on it. As with my other build threads, each pic will be preceded with a caption describing some tidbit of information about that particular build stage. I apologize in advance for my sometimes cynical tone, I promise it is meant in jest So off we go: Here are 'some' of the accessories/hopups that will be going into the M06. The kit itself was bought as a parted out chassis, so no body or wheels were included (nor a box obviously). I started by ditching the stock diff (ditching stock pieces will become a theme here) and building up this YR 39 tooth oil-filled gear diff to replace it. Despite being one tooth off of the stock diff, the mesh was perfect with the rest of the gearbox. Magic? Maybe... Also you'll notice that I ditched the bushings and used rubber-sealed bearings throughout. Here is the gearcase enclosed with a YR motor-plate and heatsink on either side. I looked for the Tamiya version but it was out of stock everywhere at the time. Besides, the YR one has a fancy radiator-looking extension in the back which you'll see later. Also of note here is that I've used titanium screws everywhere, mostly because I prefer machine screws, and I prefer hex heads, and I prefer pretty looking screws lol. I'll be using the Superstock TZ motor for this build, because I really like to end up with a car that can't go 10 meters without slamming into the nearest wall. Also the colors match nicely. The TZ is now installed in its rightful place. The picture is taken against the splendid backdrop of the black and white manual showing the particular step I was following at the time. The hardest thing about this build was remembering what hopup to use and when, and hopping between the main M06 manual and the 20 or so little instruction leaflets for each hopup. You'll notice that I have the stock rear suspension arms on there, fastened together by titanium screws no less. I later replaced them with carbon-reinforced lightweight one-piece M05/M06 arms that were a little more in keeping with the spirit of this build (whatever that means). The chassis halves are now bolted together. I chose the medium setting because... well because I had no body to match it up to, and it felt wrong going long or short for no particular reason. Luckily, the body I ended up liking and getting ONE YEAR LATER turned out to be medium length (225mm wheelbase), so it worked out at the end. I used titanium coated suspension shafts all around. Nothing quite like the occasional flying e-clip to add some drama and mystery into a Tamiya build. Still plasticky. Needs more blue bling. I opened Screw Bag A in anticipation of starting the build, but I didn't end up using anything from it. So for Screw Bag B, I held off on opening it until I needed something from it. As I suspected, I didn't use anything from that either lol. The build is finished and they still look like this. Rear damper mount installed, with titanium upper suspension links. The rear hubs going on. I decided to use fluorine-coated ball connectors because I hadn't tried them before. They're actually so slippery to the touch that there were a couple times I thought they were still loose while turning them with my hand, but they were in fact tightly affixed to the part, only my fingers were slipping around them as if they were spinning! (Note to self: there are no fluorine-coated ball-connectors in this particular picture, the audience will either get confused or think you're lying) Steel and aluminum universal shafts courtesy of Yeah Racing. They even came with white blade protecty-thingies so they don't wear out the drive cups! I've had mixed results with YR universals. Later that year when I was building an MF01X (which uses the same length cvds), one of the YR cvd shafts had messed-up thread that prevented me from fastening the wheel nut. It drove me 'nuts' (npi) and made me think the nut was bad, when it was the shaft all along. So be warned.
  7. I needed a track tool, and wanted it to be 2WD, rear driven, and Tamiya to be able to participate to Tamiya TETC as one of the club is organizing an event. And body wise, It would be either an Alpine or an Alfa. The first one was no longer available, it is then the second one… This will be my first M-Chassis I have an indoor track session targeted on January 2nd 2022, it is less than one week away, so let’s start this. 1 – differential assembly Fairly easy step done 2 – begin the gearbox assembly. This one seems far more complex to build than many I had to build before As matter of fact, at this step we just enclose the differential 3 – Next is to prepare the gear box for the gearing assembly Make sure you use the right screw in the right place… Some of the metric screws need grease. 4 – Attaching gears And yes, it will be full ball raced 5 – attaching rear arms to the rear chassis part Fairly simple, but that is the first time I see arms in two parts, and that’s odd… 6 – Next is to assemble the gearbox onto the rear chassis On this step I note that there is the possibility to add sway bar, the mounts are provisioned 7 – attaching pinion gear There is a cap to make sure the pinion is rightly positionned 8 – Attaching the motor 9 – attaching the center section of the chassis The parts used depends on the wheelbase chosen. In my case it will be 225mm, so M (Possibilities are S 210 mm or L 239mm) Metal Part Bag A is over. Time to open bag B
  8. I was looking at how on the M-05 PRO, you can mount a Low-pro servo low down without the spacer. So I was thinking, is it the same to mount one one the M-06?
  9. I just took delivery of an M06 'builder kit' of sorts, with all the basic M06 parts without electronics, wheels/tires, body, and motor. I've done a LOT of reading up on the M06, and I have a few questions for those more experienced than I: 1. The manual seems to imply that I'm to install the rear dampers (which go between the arms and the chassis) AFTER attaching the rear arms to the chassis. I'm pretty sure the clearance will not allow this. 2. The manual also mentions to use the 'kit' shock shafts for the rear if I upgrade to aluminum m-chassis dampers, but not for the front. Are the shocks not the same length front to back? 3. The battery holder comes with two mount screws, but there are four holes. Is that right? 4. I'm not seeing any references on the web that indicate whether or not the M05 ver.2 carbon re-inforced suspension arms fit on an M06 without issue, but on visual inspection I don't see why not. Can anyone confirm or deny this? 5. I plan to put some aluminum bits here and there, and as we all know, aluminum should not be attached to aluminum, so there will be places where I will need steel ball connectors. Is it just me or are these impossible to find for sale online (the black ones, not the golden brass ones)? 6. I've considered switching over to 4.8mm connectors and ends instead of the Tamiya 5mm ones, since they seem to do a better job of staying connected. Am I expected to have any problems doing this? 7. Rumor has it that I'm asking too many questions about m-chassis cars on this forum. Is there any truth to this or is it all lies?
  10. I'm wondering if anyone has an M06 lying around that they wouldn't mind trading for some money I'm a simple man, I'd settle for pretty much any kit as long as it's not built, even if it's been opened as long as the bits are all there. That being said I don't even need a body, wheels, or electronics. Thanks for reading!
  11. OCD

    M06 Beetle Kustom

    I built an M06 up from spares and hop-ups I had on hand. Really it's pretty standard fare and didn't think it was substantive enough to bother documenting. Instead I figure I'll just provide a quick rundown of the ingredients so far: M06 chassis I assembled from mostly leftovers of my previous S15 project 53571 fluorine damper set; Tech Racing blue adjusters, 53876 1mm down retainers, blue trf springs rear/yellow front, two-hole pistons front & rear, #200 oil front/ #400 rear Gear diff with some putty, which is probably too stiff to be driveable, so this may get swapped to a ball diff 54268 aluminum motor mount & DF03 heatsink bar Sport Tuned motor Sway-bar kit I made from spares 54604 body mount extensions, as the front posts I had on hand were already too short for the Beetle body 54361 & 54362 carbon damper stays Tech Racing +7mm wide front axles 54237 low-friction kingpins Bunch of pretty aluminum, titanium, & stainless hardware I'm still swapping around wheel and tire combinations, and have a few tricks up my sleeve for the body trim, which will be the bulk of this thread. I've been trying to narrow down my color choice. Currently I am at: PS-40 pink backed with PS-23 gunmetal PS-40 pink backed with PS-49 blue PS-44 green backed with PS-23 gunmetal I think I have too much paint Input or suggestions?
  12. In the preliminary planning stages of an M06 Alfa Romeo Giulia cup racer build. A few pics for motivation. The below pic is the paint scheme I will be shooting for. It will be British racing green and white though, just for something different. I really like the mag wheels on this one. Does anyone know of anything available that looks like these? I want to do mag rims in a gold anodized look. I’ve scoured eBay and a few online retailers, but have come up empty handed. Another shot of the paint and rims. Not sure I will do a racing stripe though. I have already located a decal sheet through MCI racing. Want to try and fab up a lighting kit . Bearings, and some scale exterior bits for them body. Wish I could get my hands on a M06 Pro kit, that would be sweet. Stay tuned, everything is in the mail!
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