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Found 4 results

  1. So it’s been a while since I actually did a full model build so I delved under the bed and brought out this. I love the M chassis cars and this seems to be the pinnacle of fwd M chassis’s. Just looking through the box the plastics and included items are a different level to the M05/6 base models. I bought myself an M3 tap and boy I wish I’d used one on the XV01 and the TD4. So much easier. So below are pictures of bag A construction. Edit: sorry but I seem to have lost a couple of pictures but I can’t go back and retake without dismantling what I’ve done. I’ll be more careful next bag. found them!!!
  2. Just noticed the news about the upcoming M07 chassis and didn't see a post yet so thought I'd kick it off. No photos yet though! Here's a link to info It will be released with a bunch of hop-ups and looks like it is designed as a pure racing M-chassis. It's only available in mid and long chassis sizes so no classic Mini bodies for this one. Specifications 1/10 scale R/C chassis assembly kit. Length: 332mm, width: 164mm. The core of the chassis is a 1-piece monocoque with integrated upper frame elements similar to the TA-07 Pro. It is designed to offer excellent rigidity with easy maintenance. Choose between 2 different wheelbases (M: 225mm, L: 239mm), simply by changing rear arm attachment direction. Newly designed front and rear suspension use long arms for ideal leverage ratio, in tandem with long steering linkage components. Rear toe can be adjusted simply using spacers. 4-wheel double wishbone suspension is fitted with CVA oil shocks. The TA06 oil-filled gear differential is used to drive the M-07. It is paired with universal drive shafts and full ball bearings. Compatible with standard IFMAR (Li-Po cell-type) regulation square-shaped battery packs. Compatible with Low-Profile servos. The chassis was designed with easy access to the stabilizers (sold separately) for quick, precise adjustments vital at the racetrack. Body mounts have a new reinforced design for more secure body attachment. The chassis gives its driver excellent “feedback,” allowing you to judge with clarity how your setup changes have impact. 13 Hop-Up Options available at launch 54757 M-07 Concept Stabilizer Set (Front & Rear) 54758 M-07 Concept Titanium Screw Set 54759 M-07 Concept Aluminum Motor Heat Sink 54760 M-07 Concept Aluminum Rear Suspension Mount 54761 M-07 Concept Carbon Damper Stay (Front) 54762 M-07 Concept Carbon Damper Stay (Rear) 54763 M-07 Concept Aluminum Steering Arm Set (L/R) 54764 M-07 Concept Aluminum Steering Bridge 54768 06 Module Hard Coated Aluminum Pinion Gear (17T) 54769 06 Module Hard Coated Aluminum Pinion Gear (18T) 54770 06 Module Hard Coated Aluminum Pinion Gear (22T) 54771 06 Module Hard Coated Aluminum Pinion Gear (24T)
  3. I thought I'd create a fairly comprehensive build thread for the (#58647) M07 chassis kit. It'll be pretty much as it is presented in the manual so this should be more helpful to beginners. I sold my M05 chassis to fund this purchase and I don't regret it for a second. The quality of this kit blows the M05 away in my opinion, as it should with the price difference and lacking some components. Having said that, it has things most people want to buy straight away, such as bearings and CVA dampers. Australia's RC-Mini.net posted on Facebook some in depth videos when the M07 was released. The newer chassis is supposed to be much easier to setup and to make adjustments on, as well as outright better performance. Looking through the manual it actually seems to be a very straight forward build. This will initially be built as it comes in the box. I haven't decided on tyres, motor, receiver, or even a servo for it at this point. The body will be a Tamiya Honda CRX I previously finished, so it will be built middle wheelbase. I am considering also getting a Tamiya Mazda 2/Demio to try the long wheelbase setting. A few points to note about the M07: The M07 features a TA06 gear differential. You get some blue aluminium bits in the box. No tyres, tyre inserts, motor, ESC, or body in the kit. There's no short wheelbase on this chassis. My workspace doesn't have the best lighting and I don't have a camera tripod so I'll experiment with improving the photos as I go. Questions or comments are welcomed! Step 1: Very simple start. Screws go underneath steering posts. Step 2: Putting together the differential. They're quite simple, not too fiddly. You will need: Trim the plastic from all the gears after removing them from the sprue. Here's photo of before. I trimmed them with a hobby knife. Why didn't I photo these on the green cutting mat? Lesson learned. Here's the after shot. Next put the cup joint into the diff half, then pop the o-ring over it. The Tamiya wrench tool is handy here to push it on evenly. Shim next. Now the shaft goes into the diff joint cup. There's a horizontal hole and the shaft isn't easy to adjust inside the diff case. I recommend using a pair of tweezers. Put the GV2 gear, lining up the recesses with the shaft. Other side of the diff is basically identical. Here's the finished product. Assemble the gears. Insert into diff case. Fill with diff fluid. The kit supplies #100,000 oil. You should fill to the level of the cross bar holding the gears. It's thick enough that it will just sit on top of the diff gears, so it looks over-filled in the photos. I slowly turned the diff joint cup to move it around the diff a bit. The manual shows an image of the oil being poured in, but its way too thick for that and they supply a small bottle that needs to be squeezed. Line up the gasket with the screw holes. Put the diff cover on. It will line up with the square notches in the gasket and other diff half. Screw the two halves together. I incrementally screw them in, using a cross pattern. Slide the bearings on and it's done. They can be a tight fit so keep them as even as possible when sliding them on to prevent them getting stuck.
  4. The awesome new Tamiya M-07 Concept car has one flaw. There is a hole on the bottom of the chassis, said to allow access to the pinion screw, that has the potential to allow dirt and pebbles into the transmission. This would wreak havoc on the gears. Tamiya provides aluminum glass tape to cover the hole. Unfortunately, the tape peels off after the first run or two as the chassis bottoms out on the ground. I created this plug to close the hole and keep debris out of the transmission. Unlike the tape, this plug is reusable. I suggest you purchase at least two plugs so that you have at least one spare in the event that it gets lost or misplaced. You can even share with your friends that run the M-07. https://www.shapeways.com/product/SEVSZVNE6/tamiya-m-07-concept-chassis-plug?optionId=63334527
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