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Found 3 results

  1. Hello all, I have just picked up a second MadCap (thanks to @Tamiyabigstuffwith a view to creating a Saint Dragon. The shell and decals I know will get TBG & MCI. BUT the red shocks.....anything else use them? Will the ones from the Bear Hawk fit and are they the same? Any other buggies have the same? Thanks in advance.
  2. As some of your might have seen here, I've been working on some new parts for the Super Astute series of cars. One of the projects I've been working on is a replacement gearbox for the Astute that accepts modern internals (ie a modern slipper and a sealed gear diff). The main reason behind this is because Super Astute TTC gearboxes are too rare, there is nothing at all that has a sealed diff and the Astute and Kingcab series are DESPERATELY delicate in the gearbox and a drop in replacement would allow far more of them to be used/raced. I settled on the Schumacher Cougar KR for internals as it has a 3 gear setup (similar to the Astute / SA) and is relatively common. I modelled everything up in CAD and made a test print via shapeways. Some pics below. For a 1st prototype, it's actually gone together pretty well, the parts mostly hang together and work. Clearly there are still some issues to fix though: Major: Motor fouls gearbox a bit (pinion size, hence gearing options are restricted). Will cause issues especially with King Cab (where pinion need to be smaller). Major: Motor Plate fouls wishbone pins (I could mod the motor plate to fit but as I want this to be a drop in replacement part, I will tweak the motor plate's angle instead) Minor: Outdrives are smaller on Cougar than Astute (53mm for SA vs XXmm for Cougar). Doesn't look too bad (see pics) but might cause some issues when driven hard. Not sure how it'd affect the King Cab. Minor: Nut recesses have some minor issues (too small / too big, doesnt affect use but should be fixed) Minor: Chassis post recesses are ~1mm too deep Minor: Small amount of binding in the gearbox (this might actually run in fine, dont know until its tested, if not may need to shift idler gear a little in CAD) Now for the reason I'm writing this thread now before the part is ready..... I NEED SOMEONE TO HELP ME TEST IT! Confession, I do more technical stuff than actual driving and I get most of my fun from the build however it's obviously critical that my stuff works properly when it becomes available to others. Hence for a part like the gearbox which takes precision and a lot of abuse - I want it properly tested before I make it generally available on shapeways. So Im looking for a volunteer from the community to help test my models. I'm looking for someone as per below: Has an Astute / Super Astute / Madcap / Kingcab RUNNER that they use regularly. Must be a runner, must be usable via some "proper" driving to actually test the part. Has a modern brushless / lipo setup than they are willing to test on the car. Is willing to test the parts I send and then post them back to me (with comments/feedback via regular TC pms / emails) UK based (sorry don't want to post internationally when prototyping - too slow/expensive) Longstanding & well known TC member who is knowledgeable about parts and has build experience (quite a few $ of kit so I want to test someone who's likely to be trustworthy (and not disappear & take my stuff!) and knows their stuff (essential for troubleshooting)) Ideally - Has modern 2wd experience (aware of what "good" is actually like for this class and some modern 2wd parts to use, spurs, pinions etc) If you're interested in helping me develop the gearbox and/or other parts - please let me know (and confirm the above points). I'm thinking the gearbox needs one more round of my own prototyping before it can go to my nominated tester for a thrash test (but you never know - I might mess up). BTW - Please don't be offended if you volunteer to test my stuff and I don't take you up on the offer, my wallet can only cover so much shapeways prototyping at any one time
  3. I hope to keep this updated with my findings of turning a run-down Madcap (Tamiya No# 58082) into a half decent runner. Hope to include as many part numbers, costs and suppliers in the posts for my own reference and for others interested. Note costs will be in various currencies and approximate only. I know for a fact the costs will also not be the cheapest, however, for me cost is not everything...service and convenience plays a big part too. As a lot of my research is done on TC I will try and reference members and posts where I gained info from so others can follow up. Will also be adding lots and lots of photos. (From Showroom) Dad bought me and my lil brother a second hand Madcap in approx 1999. At the time it was a basher for me (13yrs old) and my lil brother (9 yrs old). Once the novelty of the remote control car wore off it was placed in the shed. It briefly made a reappearance in approx 2004 to get a respray of the body and then placed back in the shed. In Jan 2014 (my age twenty eight) I was remotivated to take another look at it only to realise it was a Tamiya!! Its storage in a non weather proof shed has taken a toll and as I mentioned the body has been resprayed black (very roughly). It is/was always a great conversation piece between me, my brother and my dad and decided rather than to buy a brand new Tamiya model (very tempting) I will look at getting the Madcap up to a running state and then improve on it as much as I can. I started looking on the Bay for a body and any spare parts which could be a bonus. I found/bought a good condition Madcap (Tamiya No# 58082 from zulu_warrior1976 for approx AUS$160 delivered) with body (no servos or transmitter/receiver). Although it was a touch pricey it has a really nice body (which is exactly what I was after) and the rest of the parts were in a great condition. Since I was never involved in the original build I decided to strip both models down to nuts and bolts and select the best parts of each model and reassemble one Madcap. The rest of the parts were boxed and will be used as spares as it becomes necessary. The original Madcap had a Sanwa Dash Saber Transmitter but in the years I have lost the battery cover. In all my hunting the only way I could replace the back cover was to buy a new remote (Approx AUS$50 from various on-line vendors). This has not happened.. Top View (Original) Bottom View (Original) Top View (Added Model) Bottom View (Added Model) Body (Added Model) Only reason I really bought the Added Model Before I dismantled both models to nuts and bolts I took a few photos. The following are the original Madcap dad gave me and has been sitting in the shed for some time. Original NiMH batteries do not hold charge anymore, which shouldn't be a great surprise. We didnt have the patience back in the day to wait for a charge at 1C. Dad used to connect the battery to the car with a current limiting resistor and we could charge a battery in about the same time it took to run one flat... Good times.. Bought 5 new Powertech 7.2V 3.3A NiMH batteries (Jaycar Part No# SB2314, Cost AUS$50, down the road from me so extra cost doesnt bother me). Went with NiMH as the Madcap can house the battery in the chassis. Will look at Lipos at a later stage. Original Tyres (I think it is Tamiya No# 53040 Hybrid Wide on the back, GBP16.25 from Vintage_Tamiya and Tamiya No# 53039 Hybrid Narrow on the front, GBP 14.29 from Vintage_Tamiya). Original Wheels. Original Motor and Resistor, Has definitely seen better days. Original Friction Dampers.. Original Receiver and Steering Servo Some photos of the Added Model bought through the Bay... Added Model Motor, Resistor and Friction Dampers Added Model Friction Dampers Added Model Motor Controller and Rear Friction Dampers All parts were broken down to nuts and bolts and thrown in a Ultrasonic Bath with some detergent. I then picked the best parts and turned the two madcaps into a single stock madcap. So the current plan is (Will keep updating as I figure out what the plan is).. Reassemble all good parts between the two Madcaps to end up with one Madcap. This will be almost stock everything... Transmitter, receiver, servos, MSC, motor, gearbox, tyres, wheels etc.. Only part not original/stock will be the batteries. See how it all goes with stick transmitter and original tyres. Swap out tyres, still stock but in newer condition. This was from the Added Model I bought through the Bay. Swap out MSC for ESC. This will be a Tekin RS Gen2 Brushless Sensored/Sensorless D2 ESC 8.5T (Tower Hobbies Part No# LXDHNS, Cost: US$175). The ESC allows me to test my Brushed setup for initial stock reference and then change over to brushless without too much effort. Completed Will buy ESC in combo with Tekin Redline 17.5T Motor (Tower Hobbies Part No# LXCVMC, Cost US$100). Combo for ESC and 17.5T motor (Tower Part No# LXDHNY, Cost US$250, I wanted quick delivery so approx US$300 to Perth, Australia in 4 working days!!). Will not install motor till after first reference run with brushed motor. Completed Swap out Transmitter and Receiver. From various discussions at my local club it seems everyone loves Spektrum DX of some sort. Will go for latest version Spektrum DX4R Pro, comes with receiver SPM4100 and SR410. Bought through stealth351 on the Bay for AUS$440 delivered. Touch pricey but he is an Australian supplier and would like to support him as much as I can. Do a practise run at my local to establish base time. Completed, 62secs where most cars on the night did 35 to 40secs Swap out brushed motor for Brushless motor. Completed Do a practise run at my local to establish base time. Start modifications Buy Hi Cap Dampers Rear (Tamiya Part No# 53037 Cost GBP 65, Supplier Vintage Tamiyaparts), I have put this on the back burner due to cost.. bought Yeah Racing (#DP-1004Tl) 70mm Damper Set from RCMart (AUD$14.63). Completed Buy Hi Cap Dampers Front (Tamiya Part No# 53036 Cost US$73, Supplier Vintage CTY300 Ebay), I have put this on the back burner due to cost.. bought Yeah Racing (#DP-1006Tl) 90mm Damper Set from RCMart (AUD$14.63). Completed Buy Al Gearbox Plate (Tamiya Part No# 53060 Unsure, will check Ebay) Buy Stainless Steel Ball Bearings 8*2.5*5. (RS Part No# 138641 Cost AUS$8.77 for 2, Supplier RS Eec, NMB Brand) Buy Stainless Steel Ball Bearings 11*5*5. I think this should be a 4mm wide bearing but while I am going to RS I will try this one. (RS Part No# 747765 Cost AUS$9.40 for 2, Supplier RS Eec, NMB Brand) Buy Stainless Steel Ball Bearings 16*8*5. (RS Part No# 747765 Cost AUS$9.40 for 2, Supplier RS Eec, NMB Brand) Bought Tamiya (#51206) Astral Rear Wheels 60/29 (35mm) (AUD$5.31 RCMart). Completed Bought Tamiya (#51205) 2WD Astral Front Wheels (60/19) (24 mm) (AUD$5.31 RCMart) Completed Bought a few sets of tyres, mainly just to try them out.All Initial Tyres Completed Tamiya (#54284) Off Road Wide Grooved Soft Tires (2WD/Front,60/19) (AUD$6.39 RCMart) Jconcepts (#3004-02) Groovy Tire Super Soft (Green Comp) For 1:10 2WD Front Buggy (AUD$10.83RCMart) Jconcepts (#3017-01) Bar Codes Tire Soft (Blue Compound) For 1/10 buggy (F) (AUD$11.81 RCMart) Jconcepts (#3005-02) Rounder Tire Super Soft (Green Comp) For 1/10 Buggy (AUD$8.78 RCMart) Jconcepts (#3006-02) Double Dee\'s Rear Tire Super Soft (Green Comp) For 2.2 (AUD$10.73 RCMart) Jconcepts (#3016-01) Bar Codes Tire Soft (Blue Compound) For 1/10 Buggy ® (AUD$10.78 RCMart) Jconcepts (#3016-03) Bar Codes Tire Medium (White Compound) For 1:10 Buggy ® (AUD$13.87 RCMart) Jconcepts (#3016-04) Bar Codes Tire Soft (Orange Compound) For 1/10 Buggy ® (AUD$9.64 RCMart) Jconcepts (#3016-05) Bar Codes Tire Soft (Gold Compound) For 1/10 Buggy ® (AUD$14.30 RCMart) Cont...