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Found 2 results

  1. Hi everyone, I'm after a HPI Mazda Miata/MX5 #7205 Body for my Tamiya M07. Open to anything, Sam
  2. I want to share with you all my Tamiya M04RR project. I have posted about it before in my TC showroom, but it has evolved a lot since. You can find my old showroom entries here: http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=96268&id=19827 The M04 has always been the black sheep of the M-chassis family in my experience. That makes it all the more fun to be quick with one. I had been racing my bodged RR conversion since early 2011, and every year it proved to be really quick and easy to drive on our track. I originally build the M04RR before Tamiya came out with the M06. The new M06 proved I was on to something with the rear motor layout. Since our club was growing a lot in 2013, and our annual big race weekend was coming up I had to step up my game and rebuild my poor worn out M04RR. I started from scratch with a brand new M04 kit I got cheap of a friend. I also had another friend draw up some 3D drawings for a simple adapter to convert the M04 to RR without the need of modifying any part. Just add some screws and spacers, and it works. The new car would be build using every single bit I had always wanted on my old M04RR but never bought. I will skip all the evolution of the old car, and go straight into the build of the new car. I already had a body which I barely used and handled great. I have reused it for the new car. Its a Tamiya Miata with a Kamtec spoiler on HPI stands. Here you can see it when it was brand new, next to my FWD Sakura D3 touringcar project. I took more pictures that night, but I can't find them anywhere... I bought a bunch of hopups and special parts for this build, and I will try to explain why I used those specific parts so you guys have an idea of what this chassis is build for. When I started the build I was still waiting on some parts including the screws. The entire car is build with M3 hex screws instead of the standard self tapping screws, because I like working with hex screws much more. Plus is also looks great! All plastic parts have been pre-threaded so the build would be quicker and more precise. The screws I am using are Hiro Seiko stainless steel blue plated screws, so they are much stronger than the usual coloured screws that are anodized aluminium. Hiro Seiko is one of my sponsors, so I got a good deal on the screws Because I knew the M04 of the top of my head already, I did not follow the manual. I started with the front end of the car, as I had most of the parts in stock already. - Inside the bulkhead there's 25gr. of weights for a bit more front grip. The chassis is very light in the front so this is needed or it will lift the front wheels to much. - It is fitted with one-piece reinforced plastic lower arms from Cross Racing. This makes it easier to work on the car, its stronger and simply looks better. - On the inside of the arm I used Tamiya gold coated kingpins, and I shimmed most of the slop out of it. - The dampers are a mix of 3Racing TRF copies and old pink TRF dampercaps. I wanted to keep the pink colour of the old dampers, but with adjustable preload and full length cilinders. Now I can adjust the rideheight and preload much better than before. I used 2-hole TRF pistons, soft (blue) TRF O-rings and Yokomo medium bladders. Its filled with MuchMore #350 oil and set to full rebound. The springs are ltd.ed. metallic black TRF Medium (yellow dot) springs but will be replaced later on in this build thread. - Just for the looks I added 3Racing pink aluminium ball connectors. On the inside the gearbox is fitted with - Hollow carbon shafts - Ballbearings, cleaned out and re-oiled with my superb Hot Racing bearing oil - Tamiya reinforced gears - Standard geardiff filled with lots of AW grease to keep it from spinning one wheel in the corners. On the outside the gearbox is fitted with - Cross lower arms with Tamiya gold coated kingpins. Slop removed by shimming again - Tamiya M06/M05golded. kingpins with ball connectors. This places the damper more outward on the lower arm, but also increases the damper angle to give the car a bit more sideways grip and keep it from spinning out. I ordered the gold coated kingpins but got the normal silver ones instead, bummer! - Yeah Racing 3* toe-in hubs. I need the maximum amount of toe-in on the hubs to compensate for the toe-out you get from the gearbox suspensionmounts. On a normal M04 this gives you 0,5* or 1* toe-in, but because I flipped the gearbox around it is toe-out. It works out as around 2* toe-in on my car. Another advantage of these hubs is that you can play with the rollcenter. I used the outer hole on the hubs to get minimal camber change on the rear wheels. - 3Racing 6mm wheel adaptors on standard M04 shafts. I also shimmed out all the slop here. I had to use 3x0.2mm and 1x0.1mm shims per side!! - Ballbearings offcourse, with the same oil threatment as the others. - Rear dampers are build up the same way as the fronts. But here I used #300 MuchMore oil and soft springs (red dot). For the steering of the car I used the following - RC OMG brushless lowpro servo. This is the old prototype servo I had in my competition drift car, which I don't need because I'm testing a new aluminium housing RC OMG servo now. These RC OMG servo's are fantastic quality, better than anything I've owned before including Savox, Sanwa, Futaba and Hitecs. If you are in the market for a new servo, you should definatly check RC OMG out. Their stuff is amazing! - Tamiya high-torque servosaver with the hopup aluminium arm for M03/TL01/M04. - Tamiya aluminium servomounts to reduce the chassis flex around the servo. And here you can see the 3D printed adapter I had made by Shapeways. It replaced the aluminium angle bits I used before. This is much more solid and is a direct fit. All I needed to do was M3 thread the holes in the front. For those of you who would like to build a M04RR, the adapter is for sale on Shapeways. You can find it here: http://shpws.me/rwdG In addition you will need 4x 18mm or 20mm screws and 4x 5mm spacers to attach the adapter to the gearbox. I used 3* toe-in hubs, so if you are using the standard hubs, 4mm spacers might work too. Either way you can adjust the wheelbase by changing the length of the spacers so you can always make it fit your specific chassis and bodyshell combination. I chose Strong&Flexible Pink Polished, but you can buy it in different colours too. And that is what all of the above looks like together. I will post another update soon, as the car is already finished but I need to translate the build thread from my local forum Hope you like it so far!