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Found 14 results

  1. Blista

    M-07 Mini Chassis

    Just noticed the news about the upcoming M07 chassis and didn't see a post yet so thought I'd kick it off. No photos yet though! Here's a link to info It will be released with a bunch of hop-ups and looks like it is designed as a pure racing M-chassis. It's only available in mid and long chassis sizes so no classic Mini bodies for this one. Specifications 1/10 scale R/C chassis assembly kit. Length: 332mm, width: 164mm. The core of the chassis is a 1-piece monocoque with integrated upper frame elements similar to the TA-07 Pro. It is designed to offer excellent rigidity with easy maintenance. Choose between 2 different wheelbases (M: 225mm, L: 239mm), simply by changing rear arm attachment direction. Newly designed front and rear suspension use long arms for ideal leverage ratio, in tandem with long steering linkage components. Rear toe can be adjusted simply using spacers. 4-wheel double wishbone suspension is fitted with CVA oil shocks. The TA06 oil-filled gear differential is used to drive the M-07. It is paired with universal drive shafts and full ball bearings. Compatible with standard IFMAR (Li-Po cell-type) regulation square-shaped battery packs. Compatible with Low-Profile servos. The chassis was designed with easy access to the stabilizers (sold separately) for quick, precise adjustments vital at the racetrack. Body mounts have a new reinforced design for more secure body attachment. The chassis gives its driver excellent “feedback,” allowing you to judge with clarity how your setup changes have impact. 13 Hop-Up Options available at launch 54757 M-07 Concept Stabilizer Set (Front & Rear) 54758 M-07 Concept Titanium Screw Set 54759 M-07 Concept Aluminum Motor Heat Sink 54760 M-07 Concept Aluminum Rear Suspension Mount 54761 M-07 Concept Carbon Damper Stay (Front) 54762 M-07 Concept Carbon Damper Stay (Rear) 54763 M-07 Concept Aluminum Steering Arm Set (L/R) 54764 M-07 Concept Aluminum Steering Bridge 54768 06 Module Hard Coated Aluminum Pinion Gear (17T) 54769 06 Module Hard Coated Aluminum Pinion Gear (18T) 54770 06 Module Hard Coated Aluminum Pinion Gear (22T) 54771 06 Module Hard Coated Aluminum Pinion Gear (24T)
  2. doomie

    decals

    desperate for a decal set for the bmw mini cooper/cooper s. any ideas anyone???
  3. I thought I'd create a fairly comprehensive build thread for the (#58647) M07 chassis kit. It'll be pretty much as it is presented in the manual so this should be more helpful to beginners. I sold my M05 chassis to fund this purchase and I don't regret it for a second. The quality of this kit blows the M05 away in my opinion, as it should with the price difference and lacking some components. Having said that, it has things most people want to buy straight away, such as bearings and CVA dampers. Australia's RC-Mini.net posted on Facebook some in depth videos when the M07 was released. The newer chassis is supposed to be much easier to setup and to make adjustments on, as well as outright better performance. Looking through the manual it actually seems to be a very straight forward build. This will initially be built as it comes in the box. I haven't decided on tyres, motor, receiver, or even a servo for it at this point. The body will be a Tamiya Honda CRX I previously finished, so it will be built middle wheelbase. I am considering also getting a Tamiya Mazda 2/Demio to try the long wheelbase setting. A few points to note about the M07: The M07 features a TA06 gear differential. You get some blue aluminium bits in the box. No tyres, tyre inserts, motor, ESC, or body in the kit. There's no short wheelbase on this chassis. My workspace doesn't have the best lighting and I don't have a camera tripod so I'll experiment with improving the photos as I go. Questions or comments are welcomed! Step 1: Very simple start. Screws go underneath steering posts. Step 2: Putting together the differential. They're quite simple, not too fiddly. You will need: Trim the plastic from all the gears after removing them from the sprue. Here's photo of before. I trimmed them with a hobby knife. Why didn't I photo these on the green cutting mat? Lesson learned. Here's the after shot. Next put the cup joint into the diff half, then pop the o-ring over it. The Tamiya wrench tool is handy here to push it on evenly. Shim next. Now the shaft goes into the diff joint cup. There's a horizontal hole and the shaft isn't easy to adjust inside the diff case. I recommend using a pair of tweezers. Put the GV2 gear, lining up the recesses with the shaft. Other side of the diff is basically identical. Here's the finished product. Assemble the gears. Insert into diff case. Fill with diff fluid. The kit supplies #100,000 oil. You should fill to the level of the cross bar holding the gears. It's thick enough that it will just sit on top of the diff gears, so it looks over-filled in the photos. I slowly turned the diff joint cup to move it around the diff a bit. The manual shows an image of the oil being poured in, but its way too thick for that and they supply a small bottle that needs to be squeezed. Line up the gasket with the screw holes. Put the diff cover on. It will line up with the square notches in the gasket and other diff half. Screw the two halves together. I incrementally screw them in, using a cross pattern. Slide the bearings on and it's done. They can be a tight fit so keep them as even as possible when sliding them on to prevent them getting stuck.
  4. Hi Folks Ayrshire Radio Controlled Car Club is based at mosshill industrial estate and is a place for novice and experienced racers to race we have 3 purpose built indoor tracks for onroad, offroad and drift both our onroad and offroad tracks are equipped with amb timing equipement we run all kinds of 1/10th electric from buggies, trucks, touring car, mini chassis, F1 and drift new this year is the tamiya holiday buggy class which is an affordable entry level for newcomers and also a fun class for the more experienced racers we currently run on a monday and friday night from 6.45pm till 9.45pm we are holding a open track day on the 10th of march would be great to see some new faces weather you have just popped down for a look or to run everyone is welcome please note if you are using lipo batteries these must be charged in a lipo bag cost is £10 to run all 3 tracks all day any other questions feel free to contact me or post on this page
  5. Hey folks, this is my first post to TamiyaClub and I wanted to share my cars. I have used this forum to figure what I wanted to build and to find out options for bodies etc over the last year or so and its really a great forum and resource. I wish that I was better at taking pictures while I build the bodies and the chassis but I end up being to focused and I forget to take pictures. I would have put this in the build section but its pretty much the finished cars. So being a big Porsche fan I wanted to get an RC car and at the same time Tamiya Released the 1/10th 40th Anniversary 934 Jagermiester. A great car and kit, I enjoyed the build but realized it was a dated layout and tech, and also really big. So after researching about Tamiya I found that there first cars were mostly Porsches and actually more like 1/12 scale and that the most recent similar and cost effective offering was the TamTech GT-01 Chassis. A nice RWD setup i picked up a few TamTech 935 RTR kits one to drive and crash with my son and a couple to keep / sell. The RWD proved to be fun with high grip but out of control on slick surfaces. So not wanting to spend more money to get older rare vintage and older tech, I started looking at M-Chassis to quickly learn they are all FWD or RWD and pretty entry level, except for 1 special limited edition version! So as quirky as it is, the TA05 M-Four was just what I wanted 4WD M Chassis that was a little "high end". The main downside is the tall height of the front shock towers as many 1/12th scale bodies are of cars with low lying hoods. (So all of my bodies sit as low as they can on the shock towers but oddly enough, works out being just the right height so far) Being Retail $600 was not what I wanted, but tamiyausa has it for $249 nowadays. I want to buy one more to keep since it is in fact limited edition! Tamiya 84255 TA05 M-Four Dynamite Basic Fwd Rev ESC Futaba Standard ball bearing servo Tamiya SPT Motor 380 Tactic Basic Receiver / Controller So after figuring the chassis out I was about to pull the trigger on 934 and 935 TamTech Bodies and original 934 and 935 plastic bodies I found available, but then learned that the 934 and 935 where on an even smaller wheel base than 210mm....So I re-started my search for bodies to find HPI Cup Racer 1/12th scale had 2 - 210mm wheel base bodies : Lancia Stratos and luckily '73 Carrera RSR! BAM!! Back on track to accomplish my mission of 1/12th scale Tamiya 4WD M Chassis Porsche! So I ordered the discontinued HPI Porsche body from Japan. It is very accurate with nice trims and accessories, but thinner flimsyier than Tamiya bodies, but thats ok, its still awesome! I also started looking again at Tamiya bodies as they are always super detailed and very sturdy. So I have a list now and I have accomplished 3 bodies with about another 5 left to obtain and paint: HPI Cup Racer Porsche Carrera RSR - Done Tamiya 1/12 Renault Alpine A110 - Done Tamiya 1/12 Honda S800 - Done Tamiya 1/12 Nissan Silvia S15 - Done Tamiya 1/12 Renault R5 Turbo - Next in line to complete and to make a scale replica of my own actual 1984 R5 Turbo Red - Need to Find! Tamiya 1/12 Fiat Abarth 1000 TCR - Next in line to complete and currently available for little more than i want to spend around $200-$300 for body. But super awesome with engine hanging out of the back!! Tamiya 1/12 Porsche 959 - Hard to find and very pricey - awesome none the less and required for my Porsche collection!!! I will do this one after I do a Renault R5 Turbo Tamiya 1/12 Toyota Celica Group B - Even harder to find than the 959 and I love Toyota so I hope to find this one at a reasonable price and build also. And on to the rest of the pics! 1973 Porsche 911 Carrera RSR - Burnt Orange - 3mm Front Wheels - 6mm Rear Wheels : HPI Cup Racer 8 Spoke MX60 1971 Renault Alpine A110 - Corsa Grey - 0mm Front Wheels - 3mm Rear Wheels : HPI Cup Racer 8 Spoke MX60 1965 Honda S800 - Metallic Black - 3mm Front Wheels - 3mm Rear Wheels : HPI Cup Racer 8 Spoke MX60 Nissan Silvia S15 - Pink Gold Irridescent PS47 - 6mm Yokomo T6R Wheels Thanks for looking and any comments are appreciated.
  6. _oliK

    My Rallye M-01

    I don't always post build threads, but when I do, I'm already 85% finished! Anyway, thought I'd finally share my M-01 rallying project (or rather: gravel skid machine). This is my first own RC car, or at least the first one that I built myself, back in 2009. I drove it for a while, had lots of fun and then...well. It sat on my shelf. I've planned on rebuilding it, and bought two modded M-02's for spares, so you could call it a M-05 now. Here are some pics of the original state (Chassis was bone stock with blue Fighter shocks - legit): There aren't many pictures of the rebuild, but I sealed the gearbox with doublesided tape, and generally tried to protect everything against dirt and other nasty bits. Nothing oozes "professional paintjob" like a cardbox box on a heater! Looks crude, but a little preparation and some masking tape makes a huge difference. Painted the Team Blue Groove undercowl - great quality for a repo, and about one week shipment from canada to germany, absolute bargain. Here are some chassis pics, I will add a complete hop up list when I'm finished. Already took it out for a test drive, it had me grinning like a lunatic! The LRP F1 ESC is fantastic, switches from forward to brake/reverse in like nothing. Let me just say something about the quick release battery holder: I first saw it in an old 1996 Tamiya catalogue, and wanted one ever since. I got it with a M-02, that was never run, but had lots of hop-ups fitted. Everything about it was new and shiny, except for the battery holder. This means, that it also took the previous owner years to get his hands on this part! Some of you may have also noticed the bent metal piece in there, I custom made this for fitting a Willy Driver figure. And it took me eight iterations to get it just right. Eight. A new body is already painted (the old one being quite abused, and painted badly), but i'm still waiting for some parts. Here you can see how I masked off the arches: I first masked off the complete body, except for the arches and side steps. I used overlapping making tpae to get the shape of the arches just right, then masked only the Windows and painted everything White. Then I covered it up with silver, and gave the arches another coat of black, so that the silver isn't visible behind the wheels. But I ended up with some major imperfections: I'm quite upset with myself, but I won't buy a third body. I'll just make it as dirty as possible while driving. I should be finished with the stickers (personal custom stickers, yay!) in a few days, until then!
  7. Looking for a new in box Tamiya #58483 RC Mini Cooper '94 Monte Carlo - M05
  8. Crash Cramer

    M01/02 parts needed, PLEASE

    I am on the lookout for a few small bits that make the world of difference on the M01 chassis. I need some C parts, namely #7,8,9 if you happen to have some, even used, I would like to hear from you. I am thinking that if they are cracked, I might hold them together with CA glue, so let's see what you have. Also in need of just the idler gear, the smallest one with a 5x8 bearing/bush in each side. I would like that gear to be as near new as I can get as single gears are not all that easy to get. I could just jump in and buy the whole gearbag from eBay UK, but I thought I would ask here first. I have a few bits I could trade with you all. Thanks, Chris
  9. IronSights

    Lancia Stratos Project

    Going to build a Lancia Stratos. I have always loved this body! Using HPI body and wheels, and BSR MRage chassis kit. I couldn't find the exact wheels in yellow, so I had to get them in white and paint them yellow. That's as far as I got so far. So this will be a combined HPI Stratos Body / BSR Mrage build thread. The chassis kit that I am using HPI body I am using HPI wheels after they were painted
  10. hello, i am looking around for a tamiya 1/10 mini cooper racing model either painted or NIB. i also need a reasonable price in AUD if that is ok. had no luck so far, contact me by PM or just down below. cheers Minifan01
  11. For sale, my entire collection of M01 and M02 parts. I once gathered all this for a failed idea to go racing with an M01, and now it's been gathering dust. Not everything is in the best of shape, but there are a few new sprues, and two whole good long-wheelbase nose sections. What you get: - 2 almost-new long wheelbase nose sections - 2 complete D-parts - 1 C-parts without steering knuckle (part C5 is seperate, but present) - 3 x left and 3x right main chassis parts in good shape - 2 x gearbox halves left and right in poor shape - 1 steering link assembly - 6 battery stoppers - 3 battery 'wings' and some misc small bits like body posts and such I'd prefer not to split the set. If you want we can always negotiate about making a set of parts. Asking price for the whole thing: €40, ex. shipping from The Netherlands.
  12. Darat76

    WTD: 58149 m-01 parts

    Hi all, hoping to find some good condition to new parts for a pair of M-01 Mini Cooper's a friend has handed to me to fix. need parts A3 and A4, as well as B1 and B2, these are the rear suspension mount halves and front gearbox halves respectively. I'm hoping to find a pair of each with minimal scratches on the base to semi match the chassis they are being fitted to. I don't need any of the mounting hardware for the suspension arms or the body, but they do need to have the bumper mounts and steering lugs in very good to excellent condition. Also in need of a pair of D1 bumpers these again with minimal scratches please. The ultimate goal is to make a good runner for my friend to use, and a really good shelfer/light use car for display with a whole heap of other mini's they already have on display. PM me any pics of any matching parts you have in your spares boxes, along with an idea of cost to get these items shipped to christchurch NZ. I'll update this thread as I find parts I need, or obtain the parts I need. Cheers all. Update: Looking for a pair each of A3 and A4 parts for the mini (shelf and runner versions), along with 1 each of the B1 and B2 parts (runner version) A body set, prefer unpainted, but if the color matches what the owner is looking for it will be fine (for the shelf version) A pair of D1 bumper parts (shelf version) 2 sets of CV shafts ball diff for the runner, and maybe 1 more for the shelfer depends on costs, and possibly 2 more for my manta ray, current budget will most likely limit this tho. I now have 1 new ball diff sorted. I know I can get most of these items off of ebay, but where I can I'd prefer to buy from TC members. Thanks for looking all, much appreciated.
  13. So it's been a fair few years since I did any kind of racing blog. In fact, it's been a while since I've raced at all. Apart from a few friendly one-day events in the summer, my RC life has been about custom projects and open bashing, but I've spent the last few Mondays hanging around at the local track chatting to some friends in the pits, and I figured, if I'm going to go to the effort of going to the track, I might as well take my Mini along and do some racing. My local club (WWMCC) has recently opened a new Mini class called Mini Clubman. It's designed to pull the Mini class back and stop it from becoming Touring Cars in 1:12 scale; when I gave up racing about a year ago, the M05 arms race was starting to get crazy and my ageing M03 was getting left behind. And if anyone turned up with an M06, well... it was game over for everybody else! So the open Mini category still exists (M-chassis size, front or rear wheel drive, Saturn 20 motor, otherwise totally unlimited), but the new Mini Clubman category is much more proscriptive: Standard M03 or M05 stock chassis Ball bearings Saturn 20 motor Sweep tyres Tamiya TRF shocks Open diff Otherwise, everything must be totally stock - no toe-in uprights or fancy adjustable turnbuckles or rigid alloy components. It's had quite an impact on laptimes, and it's changed everyone's driving style - especially going back to open diffs. It's interesting to see people going into corners on neutral throttle and powering out hard, whereas previously they were going in under throttle and staying on all the way round. Thinking that this sounds like a good way of passing my Monday evenings, I figured I'd clean up my old M03 and get "back to the track" I dimly remembered that my M03 was handling like a pig last time I raced it. I knew I wasn't far from taking a short-term retirement from racing anyway, and I'd probably come back with a new car when I returned, so I never bothered to look into it. Since then the car's shocks got borrowed for my wedding truck and it's been sat on the shelf looking very sorry for itself. So it was time for a bit of TLC. The shell isn't looking too bad for a car that completed a winter season and a one-day championship, and I didn't have time to cut and paint another, so I gave it a quick dust-over and thumbed off some rubber marks. I like to have a new shell every season but I've left it a bit late this year. Next I pulled the shocks off Project Ringpull. I don't have anything to replace them with, so Project Ringpull is now resting its transmission plate on a TLT tyre until I can get around to making some leaf springs. I'd adjusted the shocks out totally for Project Ringpull, but it only took half a minute to set them back to base for an M03 carpet racer (full soft on the rear, full hard on the front). Then I turned my attention to the M03 itself. It was clear to see that both front arms and one rear arm weren't moving smoothly. This is actually a very old M03, a rare gunmetal chassis traded from a member in Belgium and originally sitting under a Suzuki Wagon RR. I had a problem with seized arms before, after running it outside in the rain and then leaving it on the shelf for a year. All the arms came off and got washed - carpet racing makes for a real mess! The CVDs up front (not sure if they're legal in the Clubman class but they're all I've got) are looking the worse for wear, as are the outdrives, so once I've confirmed the rules I'll be ordering replacements. The stiffness problem in the arms was, again, down to rusted hinge pins. I got the worst of the rust off with some fine abrasive and then hand-polished then with a finishing compound - not a perfect solution but my machine shop is currently full of furniture (we're having some work done on our house) and I can't get to any of the power tools. I couldn't find any Tamiya assembly grease but I did find a pot of AW grease, which is sticky enough to coat the pins and gives a nice fluid feel to the suspension. Everything was reassembled and checked for smooth motion without binding before the shocks and wheels went back on. Here I can vent a matter of annoyance - I'd had a set of alloy locking wheel hexes in my Ebay watchlist for months, and last month I finally took the plunge and ordered 10 packs. There's few things more annoying than a hex getting stuck in a wheel and a drive pin falling out under the bench somewhere... Except these cheap hexes appear to have lock screws made of cheese, which are nowhere near strong enough to clamp the hex down over the pin before the head of the screw gets chewed up. Rant rant rant rant rant, worse than it was before, rant, should have gone with Tamiya, rant, waste of money, rant, waited for those for two weeks, rant, been on my watch list since February, rant... Anyway... I'd previously raced with a cheap Acoms servo, the ubiquitous comes-with-a-radio-set servo. Recently a batch of cheap servos arrived from HobbyKing, and I was pleased with the Trackstar servo in my TT02D, so I lobbed one into the M03. Must be better than the Acoms, although I'll probably have to dial in some expo as it's about 6 times as fast Still running with an ancient ESC (it actually came with the car years back), no LiPo cutoff but that's OK because I know my packs will last 3 rounds. All I have to do now is find my transponder and go racing another ridiculously long-winded post to follow tomorrow morning after my return to the track is done
  14. Hi everyone! I'm very new to this site so just introducing myself really. I've always been a MASSIVE fan of Tamiya. I used to dream about getting one in the 80's but as we were poor as s**t, it only finally happened with a Monster beetle for xmas in '89. After that I got a Avante 2001, and a Manta Ray. Some years ago though my wife got me a mini cooper racing M03 chassis as my other love/obsession is classic mini's. With that in mind you can imagine my Homer type drool over the Mini Cooper Nitro Tg-10. Well I've wanted one for so many years now but the cost and availability is, well not fair! Now I was recently looking at one in Australia Ebay. It was brand new and never used with no box. New unpainted shell etc. Couldn't afford that. So ended up buying this!!! I paid £88 for it. It has a nosram .15 engine in that apparently hasn't been run in yet but I'm taking all that with a pinch of salt. Anyway, more pics: And my M03: So, I'm gonna start by getting the radio gear going. I've a Futaba Receiver (which is all it needs) so if thats a success then I'll try and get the engine going and work up from there. I suppose I would have loved the brand new cooper but I actually want to use it and that would have just ended up a shell queen me thinks. Maybe one day I'll hve both!!! Wish me luck! I'll be needing all your helps! Adam