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Found 14 results

  1. My restored Tamiya King Cab is heading for a new adventure. This time it´s near Vienna: The Vienna Quest
  2. Just a fun post this time: "The King" is out for new adventures! And it is getting wild! Enjoy!!!
  3. Hi Tamiya Retro Fans! About a month ago I got good advice here on my Traxxas Gearbox project. Thank you again! Well... it is more or less done! I went so far and replaced not only the gearbox but also the lower arms, uprights and axles with new Traxxas ones. The result is a MONSTER! But it works brilliant. Check out my first test Video. More videos will follow! The restauration as it stand now: - new TBG replacement body + MCI Racing decals - Light Kit - Cockpit with articulated driver head. - Gopro mount inside cockpit Hope you like the action!
  4. Hello. Long time lurker first time poster. Always wanted to say that I scratch-build a lot, but do love building and modifying Tamiya kits. As the title suggests the current project is a WW2 -themed Wild Willy 2. This one will have some realism added to it, inasmuch as you cannot make the unrealistic dimensions of the body realistic. First mod are grab handles made of 3mm brass tube. Couldn't get the bend sharp enough to fit the corners like the 1:1 has, so just went with the two along each side. Spare tyre/wheel. A WW2 Willys wouldn't have a wheel cover over the spare, so mine will have a realistic tyre. Pitt Bull Temco with a plastic, narrowed by 5mm wheel from an MST kit. Paint will come later. More soon!
  5. Hello. I could use some advice. I have a High-Lift Hilux with the multifunction unit. The rig is very heavy and I feel it is underpowered and could benefit from some 2S Lipos. So I ordered the most compatible Lipo batteries I could find on Amazon. They fit my Lunchbox with no issue as well as an old Nikko dune buggy. But it’s just slightly too large to fit into the Hilux. 🤦🏻‍♂️ Has anyone had any success modifying the battery compartment without destroying it? Thanks in advance for the advice. Cheers from Canada, Tal
  6. I need some origional rear driveshafts for my tamiya hotshot. I also need to get my hands on some front suspension mounts. I have the supershot conversions at the moment. I want the rc chanel complete front aluminium set up.
  7. A while ago, I decided I wanted to alter the suspension setup on my Jugg2 runner. The leaf spring setup was not flexible enough and didn't have enough travel. I also wanted to eliminate the 4 wheel steering at the same time. So I started off by removing the stock suspension, and adding a txt-1 front axle guard and 4 link mounts. I had to modify the link mounts slightly so that I could get the 4 link geometry right. Fortunately I already had replaced the stock suspension links with aluminium ones, so it was easy to shorten them to the length required. I also had to remove the front chassis cross brace and replace them with aluminium bars, to allow room for the monster servo when the suspension was at full compression. I also made a rear steering lockout that bolted directly to the axle: I took it out and tried it, and having the 4 link with coil overs on the front and leaf spring rear end gave a good middle ground suspension movement. The leaf springs prevented the worst of the torque effects, and the softer, more pliable suspension at the front gave better movement over obstacles. However after a while I decided to go for coil overs all round. As I couldn't find reasonable priced TXT spares on the internet (£28 just to get the 2 grey suspension mounts / axle guard mounts) I made my own from aluminium: I painted them and fitted them to the axle. I designed them to make it easy it lock the rear steering. I can still adjust toe in / out by using different length spacers between the track rod ends and the suspension mounts. I tried this new system out this afternoon, it has a lot more travel now than before and works really well over rough ground, but is now more susceptible to torque effects, so I might add and extra set of shocks to the rear to stiffen it back up again, I guess it will depend on how I plan to run it. If anyone is interested in doing their own (machining or 3D printing), here's the dimensional diagram.
  8. Hi, Thought i start this Hobby again with my first RC The Grasshopper, only this time 20 years after i do it myself i try to do it exaclty as i wanted it to be. I bought som "mods" but at the end i fell most of them where a bit waste of money. Its not many oil dampers that fit and the one i found are quite ****ty and do not hold the oil, so its really just a better looking "feather" spring damper. Colours - pearl white - Pearl Clear - Gold Metallic - Black & Gun Metall Been out for many spins already, and i think i even like it better now than i did as a kid, hope you like it to:
  9. I'm going to give my Hotshot the Super hotshot rear suspention and Boomerang front suspention, but I don't want to buy the Tamiya shocks because they don't have as much adjustability, they aren't the right color and I they might be more expensive then buying universal shocks. I need to know all that I need to know (dimensions, stroke, ect) to find some red shocks that will work good on the Hotshot I'm making. Providing links to specific products is good will me.
  10. Ok. Let me know what you all think about this. I have Supershot, Frog and Wild One renos on the go and have recently purchased diffs for both the Supershot and the Frog. It struck me as i thought about swinging both these diffs into their respective uses that no had one ever bothered with the Wild One in this regard so i experimented. I had to bore out the Wild One gearbox to take the new outdrive bearings and as i had the tool from the Supershot diff set i did this. (The hole saw will not go all the way on one one side, you'll need to flip it and start the original procedure from the outside.) I tried the Frog diff first with a standard Wild One counter gear but the gearbox spacing was wrong so then i tried the Supershot and it worked but there was rub from the pinion side of the counter gear. My solution was to swing in a 49 tooth Frog counter gear and it was as smooth as pie. I haven't run this yet but it will allow the use of the Frog universal shafts too. So provided i haven't sent you all up a certain creek without a certain paddle i'm hoping this may solve diff problems with this model. Apologies, i never mentioned the diffs were MIP.
  11. I'd love a Tamiya vintage buggy but I'd like to make it durable and modern with high quality parts. I know M.I.P. make some diffs for the Bigwig and others, and I've always wanted a Bigwig, but there's not much point spending $150 dollars on the M.I.P. diffs if the rest of the car is cheap toy grade plastic. TT01 and other road cars have so many upgrades, but I hardly see any for the buggies. Cheers.
  12. So I've just purchased a nearly new Madcap that's only been run a couple of times indoors. Just wondering what's the hotest motor I can put in it without risking the diff, and what other sensible mods would you advise. It will mainly be a shelfer with a bit of light use. Thanks
  13. Hi All, I'm very excited to share my latest project Many of you will recognise this car, I won it on fleabay a couple of weeks back and after contacting the seller it turned out the seller was fellow member neverfollow. Link to his original thread http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/71961-astute-restoration-with-modifications/&page=1 I'll start with a brief run down of where it's at and where it's going. All cars start somewhere and this is how it was when neverfollow acquired it from japan Current parts: A&L lethal weapon trans (soooo much sexy ) Stadium Blitzer front + rear hubs F103 carbon reinforced front uprights Super Astute G4 support TA-04 Pro steering linkage TA-04 Pro aluminum servo mounts Super astute front + rear arms DF-03 CVD's Super Astute battery tray Avante upper links front and rear Front carbon fibre turnbuckle brace Alloy D1 suspension blocks Standard yellow kit shocks (neverfollow kept his Hi-caps for obvious reasons) Standard kit wheels Pictured is how neverfollow had it when completed his restoration Here is where it's at now: Other than removal of the shocks I haven't touched the frontend and the rear end has only been stripped and put back together whilst I contemplate upgrades. I will re strip the car and clean up everything once I'm happy with it and post more pics as I go. Test fit of battery and servo. As it is an Astute, holes will need to be drilled for the Super Astute battery tray. Bel (neverfollow) originally drilled holes for various mounting trials but they aren't suited to where I want them for my particular battery option. Planed upgrades are as follows: Modern turnbuckles Rear carbon turnbuckle support brace Modern wheels and tyres Lipo battery BZ superstock or similar motor (I have a few vintage motors I may throw in for fun depending on my mood) TBLE-02 ESC (have one leftover from my re-re monster beetle purchase) Shocks... This one is tough, I've always loved hi caps and am leaning towards them but as it's going to be a runner I feel the TRF aeration dampers could be a better option with a lot more tunability. I'm open to suggestions/opinions here Please feel free to add any other suggestions keeping in mind I'm after reliability first and foremost. I know the A&L can handle a lot more motor and I may increase motor options as I grow confident with the car. One thing I love about it is the ability to run any 48p spur and pinion combo so gearing options are endless. FYI internal gear ratio is 2.22, pretty close to most buggies 2.6 That's it for now, stay tuned for progress updates
  14. Hi all, I've just got myself a high lift, and am planning to make myself a set of 4 links for it, and am looking for inspiration on how other people have done it. I'm aware of the JunFac conversion, which is a nice design, but a bit pricey for me as it's not too difficult to replicate the design myself. Also I plan to use the kit included axle mounts to save making my own, and am just looking for ideas on any alternative mounting positions etc. I could also use some advice on what length shocks I'm going to need, again, looking for some tidy shocks that won't break the bank , and also some good quality rod ends. Thanks.
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