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Found 11 results

  1. Welcome to my Konghead build. I've had a love of all things Tamiya since my folks bought me and my Brother a Boomerang each in 1988/9. Ever since then I've built a dozen or so kits. Some I still have and others I've (regrettably) sold. Having been into comp crawlers and scale trucks for the last several years I've recently, once again turned my attention to Tamiya. I'm part way through a TT-02 Type S Rally Car (build thread coming), have a DT-03 ready and waiting to start, but first, the Konghead caught my eye. So, here goes. A word of warning though... I like to take a lot of pics during a build! Oh, and since I've found a lot of useful information on here, I thought I'd become a subscriber. I treated myself to a few upgrades while I was waiting for the kit to arrive. I'm not a fan of the chrome wheels (especially for the paint job I'm thinking about), so opted for these yellow ones from JK-RC instead. Added some Schumacher truck foams that I've used in my Lunch Boxes. Thought I'd get the shocks out of the way before starting the kit. I absolutely love building Tamiya shocks. They are definitely some of the best. That's where I'm up to for now. Thanks for taking a look.
  2. Hi guys Found a TNX new in box locally, Is it any good? I won't pay more than new so that's fine. I don't have a specific wish or need for yet another nitro monster truck, so if it's no good, why bother right? But if it's a decent and fun rig, sure why not add it to the ever so growing collection. What engine is in it? I'm aware that it's a .32 of some kind, but got no clue as to what it actually is. Any and all info is much appreciated.
  3. I’ve always been a fan of the Clodbuster, because of the customization factor, so many variations on the same chassis, it’s crazy....so here’s mi rendering of the Clodbuster..... Had an extra set of SCX10 rails sitting around, so I decided to replicate a lift kit for the SCX10 with these aluminum plates which coincidentally lined up with the SCX10 holes, go figure, it will be 4 linked, with vertically mounted dual servos, working lights, Ampro GMC grill....amongst other things..... Ego will be captain of this rig, still deciding on interior, Recaro seats of RC4WD blazer interior...
  4. So after much, much debating (let alone pester you guys with inane questions about Clods), I've bought myself a Clod Buster. Yup! I've finally done it. One showed up for sale about an hour away, according to the seller a completely mint shelf queen with a flawless body shell. I'm a bit apprehensive about second-hand RC cars, especially older ones, but the price was right and on the pictures it did look fairly good. Money was exchanged, and the biggest RC car I've ever owned came home with me. Seriously, it towers over everything I own. And I told the wife that I'd be buying no more RC cars this year, so obviously I've bought the biggest one I could find. When I got it home the first thing I did was inspect it. The body was painted well, but lacked detail. That's okay though. I'm not great with painting hard bodies, but I've got a steady hand and a decent supply of paints. So I turned this.... ... into this! What I did to the body: - Straighten out hood scoop decal. (Seriously, how do you even...) - Painted the mat black window trim of the smoker windows - Traced all the shut lines of all the doors (and the funky tilt nose) with a Parma detailing pen. That adds so much depth to the body! - Repainted much of the silver trim around the windows (my hands are clearly a bit steadier than the PO's) - Painted the chrome taillight bezels and added the white reversing lights - Painted the front side lights / parking lights / whatever those things do on a squarebody Chevy. - Added in the black bits in the grill. - Painted the chrome front side marker bezels and added in the orange lights - 'Relocated' the chrome dot indicating the door locks to the correct location (again, how do you... Luckily the old silver paint came off easily) - Replaced a few missing screws here and there. - Stuck the windshield wipers back on, though I hold little hope for their permanence on those little pins. Might have to devise a different solution. The body seems to be closest to an '83-'85 squarebody Chevy C/K, and they came with a body-colored trim panel in the grill. I'm debating painting the one on there red to match the body, but I kinda dig the chrome look. Plus, the lack of Chevy emblem might indicate that it's an aftermarket panel. Meanwhile, the chassis is in bits. I've ordered the metal parts bag from a Super Clod so I have the correct chassis braces, along with a screw bag (because I'm rapidly running out of M3 Tamiya bolts with this truck...) and some other odds and ends like steel pinions. I've also bought a Hobbywing Quicrun 860 (the dual-motor one) and a high-torque servo. There's an MSC in there right now. I'm not going to use that, obviously, but if space permits I might leave it in and connect it to a broken servo, just so it looks the part. I'm planning to go fairly stock with it. It's an '80s monster truck, both in design and 1:1 truck it depicts. I'm not expecting Monster Jam-esque jumps and sky wheelies and such, but rather this slow and deliberate crawl over some old body sets.
  5. I've been delaying posting this until I was sure I had everything figured out and wasn't going to be halted due to cost or loss of interest. So, after my Bad Influence (Stag) Jugg/TXT build, I had a bunch of reasonably viable parts left over: Then another thread reminded me of a project I'd wanted to do before, but had abandoned due to lack of skill, so off it was to eBay - and with the help of waterbok nabbing some parts from Germany when my address was deemed invalid I ended up with this haul: I decided to go with Jugg2 axles instead of RC4WD Blackwells because they had the input offset I'd need to reduce driveshaft angle, it was cheaper for a matching pair, and I wouldn't have to purchase adapters to fit the Clod wheels. Also, I'm going to use the stock Jugg servo saver setup with a single servo for 4wheel steer (which may be changed depending on how many times I roll the truck). Yes, those are alloy Jugg E parts and a leaf spring bag. We're going old school. Then, it was off to Rhino - quite a bit of steam coming out my ears getting all the measurements right and double checking positioning but then I got this: Currently, according to Shapeways it'll be shipped on Mar 8, and then I'll be able to test fit things and see how wrong I got everything. Can anyone guess what the final product is supposed to look like? (there's a hint in the title of the thread)
  6. Hi Folks, Been on a MF-01X binge over the last few months. I have seven built and one still to go. Two will be runners while the rest shelf queens. Shelf queens mostly spot Tamiya Esc + 17.5T sensored Brushless motor. One of the Runners has up rated 80A Hobbyking esc & 13.5T motor. The other is a work in progress at the moment.
  7. Last week I ordered my second WT-01 monster truck. I already have a Tamiya Blackfoot III full alloy conversion but now I want a fast brushless truck, so I buy a Bush Devil II kit. An unboxing and tuning parts video: First act was opening the gear box and changing the bearings. I used bearings without rubber, for softer running. The diff was already filled with grease. Next step was building the shocks. Team C but labeld with Ansmann. 93mm shocks for rear and 85mm for front. They are very good finished, looks awesome. The sorings are very soft. After that I build the rear axle and implement a wheel spacer, because my beadlock rims have only +6mm offset, but I need 10-11mm like the stock rims. I see in TT-01 community Super Blackfoot axles, they are 5-7mm longer. Perfect! But there was a new problem: how to fill the space between hex and ball bearing. I tried this: - rubber o-rings -> pressing to strong on the bearings and expensive - washer -> too big - special small rc washer -> too expensive ...think...think...think....I got it! Alloy tube from hardware store -> cheap, exactly 5mm inner width, unbreakable and easy to rebuild, if lost. I changed every tapped screw by M3 screws and small tubs. So suspension is very soft and clean and more stable than stock screws. I found two alloy hex adapters, installed only on rear axle. Building rear axle is same like front. C-Hubs I using are for TL-01 but fits also perfect on WT-01. Made of delrin and ball beared! The bearings are filled with rubber compared with bearings in gear box. The rubbers protect against dirt. For front shocks I need to change the piston rod from 51mm to 41mm. Otherwise the shocks would be too long. The chassis was very easy to build, only tapped screws. But for servo I have used alloy mounts from Tamiya with some spacers. Works good, but I hope the mounts don't broke again, like on my Blackfoot. Toward Pro servo from asia, 15kg alloy gear. Kimbrough servo saver, stable and short, it don't touch the chassis. No big deal, after that chassis looks like this: Rims are made by gmade, 2.2'' beadlocks, looks awesome and mustn't be clued. The have nearly same size like stock but bit bigger and No 1 grip! So the "final" chassis looks like this: Next step brushless kit and searching for a nice looking body shell. Bye for now!
  8. Hi All Just started a fan group for the older Kyosho Car Crusher series of monster trucks. Big Brute Nitro Brute Hi Rider Vette Double Dare Big Boss USA 1 (electric and nitro) https://www.facebook.com/groups/1559558210958921/ Feel free to come join and have a look
  9. Is there any other parts I need for the 4wd conversion? 19805551 x 2 drive shaft 50823 x 2 Wheel axle 19805368 gearbox joint, short and long And of course the other gearbox. Is there anything I have overlooked?
  10. Hi All, 1st off ... Thanks for the help with sorting the steering servo problem out for me (see other thread). Secondly, Here are a couple of photo's of my New (Secondhand) Toy, the midnight Pumpkin. I was in the middle of sorting out the steering servo when these photo's were taken, so thats why the front wheels are pointing inwards. I'm going to be changing the shocks over soon and getting some body mounts ... I only have the 2 rear ones on it at the moment because I got it with them missing, along with 1 front spring and bottom mount for the corresponding front shock. I have used a spring and mount from a Tamyia Street Fighter (I think that's what it's called) Nitro RC Car, just to get it up and running. I'm going to be painting it soon ... any suggestions on colour schemes? I've got my 'air brush' out and now I've just need to decide on what colour/s to use. Also I'm hoping to fit some LED lights into it soon as well ... Maybe even some 'Neon' type lights underneath as well. If all goes well with this build, I'm looking into getting some shells and building my own chassis for them. I would love to get a 'Ford 150 Ranger' shell ... I had the original one in the 1980's and my Dad gave it away when I moved out and I've wanted one ever since ... the chassis on that was knackered, so I made my own up and it worked great ... I just wish I had taken some photo's of it. Cheers, Aaron.
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