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Found 30 results

  1. Hi, I'm new to the forums and also new to RC cars. Back in the 80's the Hotshot was my dream car, but I never got it, until now with the rere. I realize I should have spent more time on research before getting the kit, as my build is now on hold while I'm waiting 6 weeks for replacements for the plastic "bearings" and the pin screws for the wishbones/a-arms. I am now trying to be way ahead by ordering dual suspension rebuild/upgrade parts and a brushless setup now. Suspension upgrade Starting with the front I figured out I need the Super hotshot parts for the stay, BB27/BB28∕BB17∕BB18. However the screws/washers/spacer do not seem to be included. In order to attach dampers I seem to need BA3 screw/BB6 washer/BC11 tube/BC10 spacer/BA7 nut for upper on each side, and BC1 screw/BB6 washer/BC11 tube/BA7 nut (and BB1/BB6 to attach the stay) for lower on each side. In order to get these parts it seems like I have to buy the whole suspension bag for the Super Hotshot, which seems a bit excessive as I plan on not using those dampers. Is there another way? Brushless motor Coming from Racing drones I have a solid aversion towards brushed motors, however I do realize Tamiyas legacy and that these cars originally came with these. But they did replace the mechanical speed controller with an Electronic one and could might as well replace the motor. I've been studying some kits and found a cheap option from Aliexpress: HIINST Waterproof B3650 4300KV Brushless Motor w/ 60A ESC Combo Set for 1/10 RC Car L824 for US$ 28. The description states this is a 4 pole 12 slot does that translate to a 12T motor? And does this whole thing physically fit and is a good match for a rere Hotshot on 2S/3S Lipo setup? Thanks in advance
  2. So I've just purchased a nearly new Madcap that's only been run a couple of times indoors. Just wondering what's the hotest motor I can put in it without risking the diff, and what other sensible mods would you advise. It will mainly be a shelfer with a bit of light use. Thanks
  3. ChrisVA

    Motor for Novafox

    Hello Everyone, Motor question: I purchased a NovaFox recently and just finished it. The motor froze after about 2 seconds of running and no longer works. I took the chassis apart and double-checked the ESC and everything is wired correctly. Tamiya was nice enough to send me a new one. I am hesitant to just put the new one in without understanding what happened the first time. Has anyone seen this before? Is there a preferred after market motor? Thanks, Chris
  4. Rc_Tim_Offroad

    Vintage Stadium Thunder

    Hi I have an original stadium thunder and this came with a 13t pinion gear and a rs540 black sport tuned motor. I want to upgrade the motor however in the instructions do not give an option for any other size pinion to be used. Can I put in a 27t dirt tuned motor?. Also the standard rule I thought was to use a pinion gear two teeth below the motor so for 27th this would be paired with a 25t gear. With this rule in mind why would tamiya use such a low gear for that motor?. Also if I put a brushless 15t motor in could it handle it and again what pinion would you use? Thanks
  5. Rc_Tim_Offroad

    Pinion/ Ratio Gearing

    Evening This is my first post so go easy on me and I apologise for the questions I am a noob to this hobbie. I am after some advice I was lucky enough to get a top force 're issue kit and was wondering if the tamiya stock bz motor would be suitable for use in it. I need some advice on what pinion gear to use for that 23t motor. Also do I need to upgrade the differential gearing from the aluminium ones to stronger plastic ones?. If anyone can recommend some hop up / upgrade parts that are easy to get hold of I would be greatful. Thanks Tim
  6. need advise on motor , esc combos and links if possible ebay / amazon / ect ... thanks
  7. I've got a standard ESC (TEU105BK) and a standard motor (RC-540) in my Lunchbox. I was thinking of giving it a little more speed by getting the Sport tuned RS-540 motor. I don't want to spend too much and go brushless and go too fast that it becomes undriveable, I just want a big more speed without breaking the bank. My question is would the standard ESC be ok to run the sport tuned motor? and if I up the speed should I be upgrading anything else on the car. I have added hight quality ball bearing when I built it. I'm new to RC so not very clued up with compatibility of motors and ESC's! Any help greatly appreciated. If there is an alternative motor to the sport tuned RS-540 that doesn't need a new ESC please let me know. Thanks
  8. Hi all. I'm after an exact replacement resistor or 2 for a Technigold motor. It came in a spares pack with terminals and part number for the pack is 9805317. If you have the pack I would be interested also. If you're able to help, please let me know. Thanks in advance.
  9. Hi all. I'm after a spring spreading tool for my technigold motor. I know I could use screwdrivers but I would really like one. Please let me know if you can help.
  10. Is 13x2 too fast & too weak for Gravel Hound? I was going to mount a 21t or 23t on Gravel Hound. But I found a 13x2 motor in my stash of old motors. I've never run 13x2 before--I thought it was for light on-road cars. I'm thinking anything less than a 21T would have too little torque for a 4x4 (especially on pavement). Does any have experience with 13x2?
  11. Returning after a long absence from RC I’ve just purchased an Avante 2011 and Egress 2013 from Tower Hobbies here in the US. As a kid these were the two kits I dreamed of owning as I turned the pages of the Tamiya catalog. At the time, my after school job only allowed me the cash to get a Hornet. So now I have these these two kits, found this site and wondered if I could get some advice on motors, ESCs and servos that would suit these two cars? I have been doing a fair bit of research online - but there is just so much to choose from. I was looking at going for a Spektrum servo and receiver with AVC, and going with an ESC+motor combo from Hobbywing. Understandably, I’m trying to mix some nostalgia with the up to date Lipo batteries, brushless motor and so on. The cars will end up as weekend drivers - some moderate bashing fun. Although I wouldn’t mind if I could give a couple of my buddies with brushless RTR buggies from Arrma a run for their money. Lastly, if I documented the build, would anyone be interested in seeing the progress and pics from these two cars? Thanks in advance for any guidance you might offer.
  12. aynar

    WTB silvercans

    Hi guys, Looking for a pair of cheapo silvercans -- please let me know UK posted price. Cheers!
  13. Pumpkin2

    Brushless Neo Scorcher?

    Hi everyone! I built my Neo Scorcher and have been loving it! I've done a few upgrades so far: Bearings Alloy steering Full turnbuckles Steel gearbox joints and steel universal shafts Alloy center shaft and steel joints Sport Tuned Motor Alloy motor mount (not installed yet) Tamiya large dish wheels (2 sets) 1 with Pro line Dirt Hawgs, 1 with Tamiya Dual Block I may also upgrade shocks soon. My question is... I'd like to go brushless or at least try it out. I'm returning to the hobby after many years so I'm new to brushless motors. I'd like something that can run well with the TBLE-02s speed control included in the kit. I'm running nimh packs. 2000 mah and 3000 mah. Do I need a sensored motor or can I use either sensored or sensorless? I'd like a jump in speed but I don't want to loose too much torque. I mostly just bash but occasionally run on an old dirt track. Oh and I'd also like something moderately priced. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts and suggestions! Thanks!
  14. Hello Some time ago, I posted here the restoration of my vintage Sand Scorcher The point is that the battery is dead and the motor broke some time ago, so I need to buy replacement Can you recomend me some options? The battery was a Turnigy 4200mah LIPO hard case and I would like something similar but I would prefer a smaller one, even if it has less capacity. About the motor, I had a RS-540 Torque Tuned if I am not wrong, I would like something similar, better if its cheaper. I would appreciate any help, I am a bit lost now. Thank you and sorry if I made some mistakes, English is not mi mother language
  15. I have had this motor for a looooong time. I used to race in a super stock class back in early 2000 and this motor along with the type R where the spec motors. I have raced in this class around ten times. I took a break from the hobby and eventually replaced the power system in my car with a brushless system. I used this motor in my XV-01 pro but I feel it is too nice to have on an offroad car. The motor is in ok condition, it is still working and I have actually carried out a maintenance last year, where I thoroughly cleaned it, oil the comm bushings and polished the comm. I think it would benefit a lot from a new set of brushes, but those are very cheap. I feel too bad using this and since it also has some sentimental value, being the motor that gave me my first podium win, I have decided to sell it to anyone who is interested in having it in a shelf queen, maybe a TL-01, TA-03 or TA-04, TB-01, TB-Evo, FF02 or an F1 since it was recommended for those models. I also still have the original box and I will pack it with this one since I think the box art looks really cool and it can have some collectible value. I do not see these around that often so I am not sure if they are that collectible but I think 30€ plus shipping would be a reasonable price but, I am open to offers.
  16. I have for sale a Tamiya Super Modified Motor 11T. I am listing it as used, although it is in fantastic condition, comes with original box, insert and manual sheet. I have never ran the motor myself as it was only displayed in my TA03R-S TRF. UK postage included in price, worldwide postage at cost. These seem to go for around £30-£40 on the bay of E in used condition with box, so looking for a very cheap £20 posted for you TC er's !!! Thanks James
  17. All prices inc. UK shipping, no prob to combine postage or all the lot for £30 4x new 50520 soft springs £2.50 sent in envelope 4x new rear black friction shock plastic parts (from dt-02 and dt-03) £2.50 sent in envelope 10x new tamiya kit grease £5 sent in jiffy bag set of 4 used terra scorcher upper arms £2.50 set in envelope Assorted used and ok condition thundershot parts £5 sent in jiffy bag Pinto / Panda spares not used from project inc MSC and 2x german language manuals £5 sent in jiffy bag 2x used 540 motors taken from my dual hunter project, tamiya 18t pinions look good still and motors work ok £5 sent in jiffy bag Absolutely tatty and desperate Thundershot body and cover - useful if you have nothing else or for a runner £8 sent in box Used slightly scratched Dual Hunter body, rear mount holes damaged but still mounts fine, no wing £12 sent in a box New tamiya pinions, 1x0.8mm 15t, 1x 16t 0.6mm, 2x17t 0.8mm, 2x16t 0.6mm from tt-02b so seems steel? and 1x21t 0.6mm £7 sent in jiffy bag 1x used acoms as-11 servo, works ok £4 sent in jiffy bag 4x used friction shocks taken from my dual hunter project £3 sent in envelope CC-01 lowering kit parts minus wheels,tyres and foams £4 sent in envelope
  18. MadInventor

    Motor / Gear ratio help

    I could do with someone to do some checking on some gear ratio calcs for me to see if I've made an error in them before I start thinking about building the gearbox for my War Rig. I'm using a baseline for a sensible speed as my 6x6 truck, which I'm running on a standard 540 with a 3S LiPo. From a bit of poking around on the internet, I came up with an equivilent Kv figure for a standard 540 of around 2500KV (Which might be completely wrong )....... Standard 540 ~ 2500Kv, 18500rpm@2S (7.4), 27750 @ 3S The gear ratio of the king hauler gearbox and axle I'm using is 10.64:1 in 3rd so the axle is doing around 2608rpm for TLT-1 (89mm) tires, 1 revolution of wheel = 279.6mm so in one minute travel 279.6mm*2608 = 729201.35mm = 729m = 0.729km = 43.75km/h = 27.34mph, which seems rather quick for this (See the last run at the end of the vid): So, for the War Rig motor, which is a 1050Kv motor capable of 6S.... 5674, 1050Kv, = 23310@ 22.2V, 25200@ 24V working backwards The diameter of the war rig tractor unit tires is 132mm, so distance travelled in 1 rev = Pi*132 = 414.7mm 729201.35mm / minute = 27.34mph, so axle rpm need to be 1758.38rpm. so for 25200rpm at motor, gear ratio required = 14.331:1 and 23310rpm at motor, gear ratio required = 13.25 Do these seems like reasonable assumptions, I don't want to build the gearbox and find that the truck either crawls along at 10mph, or is an uncontrollable speed machine with no pulling power (The motor is rated at 2330Watts at 6S, so I think it will probably shift the tractor unit quite quickly if geared too high and not puling much weight)
  19. Hi, Noticed this weekend that my Blitzer is running very hot Spec is: Fully Ballraced 2S LiPo M-Troniks Storm No Limit ESC Yokomo Pro Stock 14 Turn (about 20 years old) 13T steel pinion Proline Dirt Hawgs Running on a mixture of tarmac / gravel / sand. Have ran the Blitzer a few times this weekend and the motor is getting very hot, burnt myself twice on it and yesterday one of the motor wires de soldered itself it got so hot Any idea what this could be? Was under the impression that the blitzer is pretty good at hot motors, the super stock BZ I had in it barely broke a sweat but that was only 23T. Could it be a faulty motor? As mentioned above it is very old, be a shame to remove it as it is very quick with it and I don't want to go brushless just yet
  20. I have spent the last few weeks building my first (if you exclude a simple Buggy 30 years ago) RC car - a NEO SCORCHER So far - things have gone reasonably smoothly But now - I find Tamiya instructions, somewhat lacking I am stuck with the wiring up of the ESC and Motor The (stock, Tamiya) ESC has three cables from/to it - Coloured Yellow, Blue and Orange The motor has Green and Yellow connections The instructions state ESC should have Red, Orange, Yellow - connected to Yellow/Red on the motor And Black, Blue - connected to Green/Black on the motor So I am guessing that I need to connect Yellow to Yellow and Blue to Green This leaves Orange from the ESC with no connection ? Please help me - before I go insane .........(er) !! Also - is there not supposed to be a tube in the kit to hold the aerial wire up in the air ? Mine does not come with one !! Thanks
  21. As per the title I really need a metal motor mount plate for the Madcap/Astute. Either new or used condition. Let me know what you have, can pay asap with paypal. Thanks James
  22. I recently picked up a TBLM-02S 10.5T brushless motor. I want to try putting it in my Buggy Champ but the instructions suggest a gear ratio of 9:1. Are there gears out there that give me this ratio and fit under the gear cover? If so, what's a good place to buy these type of gears? -- Jeff
  23. Hi guys After some advice. I have a spare re-re Holiday Buggy that I want to put a 540 into for the Mrs, if I wanted the best running time with a 540 motor what sort of turns should I be looking at? If i was to buy something new and cheap (<£10) like a Saturn motor, would going over 30 turns increase the battery life a lot over a stock silver can? Top speed isn't an issue here provided it goes faster than I walk but I also know the HB shell isn't light. The battery is a new 3300mah, buggy has metal bearings. So 540 options: Stock Mabuchi Silver can, (27 turns?) Tamiya Torque Tuned (25 turns?) Or buy something cheap off the bay that is 30t + [Mods please feel free to boot over to the RE-RE forum if you feel this is too specific to the HB]
  24. Hi, I was just searching for a good motor to use in my my TT02 rally car and came up with a few reabuildable brushed motors, which means I could change the brushes once they wear out. My top decision is Tamiya Dirt-Tuned, but I've also noticed the difference in the price of 'Super Stock' motors (TZ/RZ/BZ), but they all feature 'Standard type' brushes and they all are 23T (except Dirt-Tuned, it's 27T). What can be dfferent? Then I searched for brushes and then again - I found that there are standard, laydown and some 'commutator cleaning' brushes. What's the difference between all of them? Depending to the differences, which one is or may be the best for rallying? What motors do you use in your rally cars?
  25. Guys what have I done wrong? Ok, got the genuine Fox rebuilt with as much premium, alloy quality parts as I could find. Fitted a SP 3500KV and Reventon S speed controller and it literally torched itself in less than a minute after a short run-in. Ran it initially for about 2 minutes at reduced throttle for a quick check. No heat issues with ESC or motor. loaded it into the car drove 5 mins to the track and honestly 35-40 seconds later, smoke and melted death. I know it has a narrow gear window. 5.?? to 6.?? and I was about 7.4, is that enough to overload to melt point. Have I got ($50.00 AUD on sale) what I paid for??? I purchased 2 of these combos, as I have an original and a nova. Are they just completely unsuited to a buggy and if so..... .... ... .. what is the best motor esc combo for these animals??? do I stay brushless or go back to a brushed setup??? really need some solid advice guys, I just want a quick and reliable setup. specs, Fox + Nova, both identical. alloy wheels, hot trick up and low rear arms and heaps of other retro hop ups. Nano Lipo 2S 5300mah 50-100c's, Flysky GT3C series controllers ... Whats the answer? P.S this is my 9yr old daughters, she waited months and.... dead.....shes not happy.