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Found 13 results

  1. Hey all, I've enjoyed reading the many threads in the forum. This body has a copyright 1987 and an arrow pointing to PS (styrene), not ABS. I'd like some advise as to what to do with this body. On the outer shell, it appears that there is that "chrome" top paint that's sold that isn't chrome at all. And some really rough, to the touch, green paint on the inside. It looks like marking paint to me. I did some wet sanding on the outer shell and it's very smooth. My thoughts are to get the outer shell wet sanded smooth a bit more, not touch the inside, and prime it inside and out for painting. I've read about Easy-off and other chemicals. I'd hate to ruin this thing. Thanks for the input.
  2. Getting on here and chatting about my Thunder Dragon has got me wondering about whether it's possible to strip the paint. It's a pretty tatty job done by my 15 year old self, but new TD bodies are rare and super expensive. I wondered if there are a sure fire safe way of getting the old paint off without damaging the body so I could have a proper go?
  3. So I've flirted with some ideas but I'd like the experts to way in, how would you paint a checkboard pattern in the bed of this BRAT body? 1. Method 1 I considered - mask the body, spray the bottom of the bed white, then try to painters tape the bed, and someway somehow cut out the "black" squares where the black paint will be shot, then peel off all the tape, done. 2. Method 2 Some how use liquid mask? 3. Method 3 Buy some sort of thin plastic paintable stock, cut it to the shape of the bed, mask and paint as normal, place it in the bed with glue or double sided adhesive tape, etc. 4. Method 4 Try to find some sort of vinyl wrap that's checkered already and lay into the bed. I have measured the bed - it's 6 inches deep and 5.75 wide. If each square is .75x.75 I can fit exactly 48 squares in the bed. Obviously some will be cropped in the corners behind the cab. Open to advice, I would love to do it the old school way with just paint and tape but it seems like that will be a tall task with that textured bed not being perfectly flat.
  4. I painted this Nissan Silvia body using Tamiya Translucent paint. There was interest in my previous translucent paint job, so I decided to take pictures of each step to show how to do it. I used these colors: For each "coat" of paint, I hold the can about 6 - 8 inches away from the body and spray in side-to-side or up-to-down strokes. I want the paint to dust onto the body in a mist. I don't want to paint in stripes. I aim for complete coverage by the 3rd application of paint, or when the can runs out. The time between each coat depends on when the paint flashes off. When you first apply the paint, you can see that it is very glossy and wet. If you watch the paint, you'll see it flash off and lose it's gloss. It'll still be wet, but will have a matte look to it. Soon after that, I apply the next coat. The temperature that you're painting in will determine how long this takes. On a cool day of 60F, this could take up to 5mins, but on a hot day this will be a lot faster. Just make sure the paint looks dry before applying the next light coat. Here's the body after the first coat of Translucent. Held up to the light, it's very see-through. Here it is after the 2nd coat of Translucent: A little more orange, but still very see-through. The 3rd coat of Translucent: At this point, there wasn't much left in the can, so I was holding the body up to the light and looking for any area's that looked uneven. In particular the lines and crevices in the bumpers or around the windows. Here's how it looks now: Here's how it looks from the outside when held up to the light. If I stopped here, this is how it would look. If I backed this with black, I would just get a dark orange color that wouldn't be that appealing. The next step is where the magic happens. Here's the first dusting of Bright Silver: You can already see the color starting to change on the outside. It looks like there's some yellow in the orange. Here's the next coat of Bright Silver. I had complete coverage by this step and stopped here with the Bright Silver. When held up to the light, you can see that it is still semitransparent. If you look at the shadow from my hand, you see the silver. First coat of Black. Held up to the light: Next coat of black. I put the black on a bit heavier here. Held up to the light, you can no longer see through the body. I gave it a couple hours to dry, and then removed the masks and overspray film. This is the body in direct sunlight. You can see the metal flake from the Bright Silver showing through, giving depth to the paint. Indoor lighting showing the metal flake.
  5. I am at the point of putting a clear coat on a Lunchbox body. Since I sprayed the whole thing with Tamiya model paint (TS), I realized I have no Tamiya brand clear coat. Any issue with using a Testors clear coat lacquer with the Tamiya paint? I have no hobby shops near me except for a Hobby Lobby that carries Testors paints.
  6. Tamiya TS10 (French Blue) vs TS23 (Bright Blue) vs TS44 (Brilliant Blue) Do any of you have bodies showing any or all of these paint colors in the real world? Thank you.
  7. Hi all. I'm after a pot of white PC-1 Paint. Doesn't have to be sealed but does need to be useable please let me know if you can help
  8. Hello, I am restoring my Falcon (for the most part) and decided to go with a black and yellow color scheme for the new body I got. Anybody have any recommendations for the best yellow polycarbonate paint that matches the color of the stock yellow cva shocks and the yellow plastics? thanks!
  9. I haven't tried yet, but was thinking of trying to paint all the yellow plastic pieces on a Boomerang or Falcon with paint. Anyone have any tips as to what kind of paint, preparations, and is it even worth the time to paint the shocks with the springs going over them? Would it be better just to replace them with allow? thanks for any advice or input
  10. My first spray paint since my college years with some inspiration from other guides on the internet. The new Honda/Acura NSX body is going to be on my TRF419X chassis. Note. The image may not be very clear as it was taken inside a DIY spray booth. Main body colour scheme Pearl White, Tamiya PS-57 Roof, Rear and front bumper I'd changed the standard black (PS-5) having got some interesting information from a blog at Soul RC in the following order:- Translucent Purple, Tamiya PS-45 Pearl Clear, Tamiya PS-58 Metallic Red, Tamiya PS-15 Gun metal, Tamiya PS-23 The pearl clear was suppose to be the first layer, but I didn't want high reflective (or sparkle?) in the finish so I'd decided to the change layering sequence. More image to follow. Front close up (image below) of the bumper; you can just about notice the dark metallic/pearl purple effect.
  11. Apologies for this extremely anal question. Does anyone know which TS paint colours are used for painting the truck in the colour scheme shown on the side of the box? I can't seem to find it mentioned anywhere in the manual. Thanks
  12. Rather than store/throw out old bodies, I repair them internally and use them for airbrush practice. Here's a recent one, most of it is painted except for the "Hornet racing Team" along the sides.
  13. Hello! I'm new in this forum, I just have written to ask something about a new motor for my vintage Sand Scorcher, but I think now it's time to show you the restoration work in the Scorcher. Now the work is "finished" (it's never finished because I allways want to get new things and spare parts) so I will post here the complete work. Hope you like it! And sorry if there are some mistakes in my English because I'm Spanish and it isn't my mother language. First of all, a little of history: my father bought this car app. 30 years ago, when he was more or less the same age as me right now (20). He used the SS a lot it that time, and then he lend it to my uncle and he used even more. After some years, since I was a child, I've always seen it in a closet and I remember that we ran it two or three times in 10 years, maybe the last one 7 years ago. I've allways been interested in cars, and I collect 1:18 model cars and wanted to buy a new RC car but then I thought "why not try to fix the old one?" I didn't know the real name of the model... I started investigating and asking in another forum, contact with a guy in my city and started with it... I wanted to make it able to play and I have installed some more modern parts. So it's all, now I leave you with all the photos. This was the initial state of the SS (there was a dust layer but I cleaned it before taking photos) After that, I started dissasembling and cleaning some parts Here you can see the amount of dirt there was -------------------------------------------------------------- Dissasembling half of the back axle, some pictures to compare before/after Before: After:
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