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Found 23 results

  1. As with the Škoda 130RS, I have now also made a drawing for the paintwork of the Datsun 240z / Fairlady. It's going to be the non-rally version (58473). The main colour has been decided (PS55 + TS7 racing white), but I'm unsure about the stripes. Two questions: 1. What kind of stripes do you think are best? 2. What colour should they be (doesn't have to be red)? I'd love to hear your opinion! 🙂
  2. I was ideating a candy apple with gun metal body when AI gave me this color instead. Now I've seen the beauty of translucent red (ps-37) backed with semi-gloss anodized aluminum (ps-48) and finally black (ps-5). This gave me an idea that maybe I could get this kind of color with translucent red (ps-37) backed with sparkling pink anodized aluminum (ps-50) and finally black (ps-5). Has anyone tried this? Or something similar? The idea is to get a body that looks dark metallic red in the shadow, but has this awesome pink highlight.
  3. Hello everybody, as this is my first post, a few words about me: My name is Marcel, I live in Germany and will be 40 by the middle of this year. ;) I started with RC somewhere back in 1989/1990 as my father got me a Grasshopper II. Good times – so good, that the Grasshopper II stayed in my heart all this years. I drove a lot of different cars in the past – never stopped the hobby, but bought, built and sold a few cars during the years. Fast forward to today, I had three cars by the start of december and wanted to sell one or two – but ended the month with seven… I have an exclusive Tamiya fleet at the moment, with one XV-01, one TT-02, one BB-01, two DT-03 and both Grasshoppers (I and II). The Hoppers, the BB-01 (BBX) and the TT-02 found their way to me past month as I enjoy building and tinkering during the holidays. All in all, I am enjoying the hobby a lot during the cold weeks – and want to get it right and look cool. My current projects are the hardbodies and the driver figures, that's the reason for this post. I read a lot here in the past weeks, did my homework and now I want to share my plans and shopping list. It would be great if someone could take a look and tell me if everything makes sense to you. ;) In a nutshell, I want to get the bodies of the Hoppers right and paint the three driver figures (Grasshopper I, II, BBX). My plan for the bodies: Wash the body with water and dish soap Sand the body with fine sand paper, e.g. 800 wet Was the body with water and dish soap (again) Let it dry Prime the body using Tamiya 87044 (White Primer) Paint the body using Tamiya TS-26 (Pure White) Apply the stickers My plan for the driver figures: Do steps 1-4 above with the driver parts :) Prime the parts using Tamiya 87044 (White Primer) Use a brush to paint the details, I want to go with the following colors (personal matter of choice): XF-1 Flat Black, XF-2 Flat White, XF-3 Flat Yellow, XF-7 Flat Red, XF-8 Flat Blue As the Tamiya paint seems to be hard to paint with a brush, I want to order the Tamiya 87114 (Paint Retarder). My plan is to use a drop or two and apply the paint to avoid/reduce brush marks. I don't plan to order any kind of thinner, as I can use regular water and/or IPA to thin the paint, if necessary. I have 99.9 % IPA her as I run a small 3D print business. In terms of the brushes, I want to go with the Tamiya 87067 High Finish set – or is the 87066 basic set considered sufficient? I currently don't plan to get more into plastic modeling in the future, but I enjoy the process at the moment, so I am willing to invest some money, but don't want to overact. What do you think, have I understood everything correctly or do I overlook something? I highly appreciate all your comments! Thanks a lot and best regards from Germany! — Marcel
  4. Building the Tyrrell F1 six-wheeler. Most of the discussion on the internet about "Tamiya clear coat and decals" is regarding static models with water slide decals. Obviously rc decals are thicker. Part of me wants to put the clear coat on after the decals and make the surface as smooth as possible with no decal edges. Is this realistic? Thoughts or tips?
  5. So I finally finished the paint job that a lot of people thought I was crazy for attempting. First I tracked down an original king cab body that I have been searching for years in a Japan auction site and fought really hard in a bid war and won. But then the decision of painting it had to be made. A lot of people said I should just leave it in the box unpainted, and the king cab is one of the most difficult bodies to paint, but I just had to do it. Yes, I feel could have done a better job, but it's not bad for it being my first lexan body paint job,my first air brush paint job, and my first original tamiya king cab body. I really took my time with this one a total of 6 days to complete but it was worth it. I know this might be small to some, but im proud of how it came out and proud to finally be an all original tamiya king cab owner that I painted and built myself. All my other king cab bodies besides the plastic ones I have paid someone to do or they came already painted as I was afraid to tackle lexan bodies. Well not anymore! 😁
  6. Some Tamiya bodys call for quite a bit of masking tape and some paint for smaller parts, like the front air dam on the NSU TT. Is there any type of paint that I could apply with a brush instead? Of course I'd still mask the area off, I'd just have more control with a brush.
  7. I'm painting my first RC body shell which is a Audi Quattro A2 Rally for my upcoming TT-02 build. I was just wondering if I should paint the body after I build my TT-02 or before and also if I ream the holes before or after painting the body shell? Thanks!
  8. ... as illustrated by my TT01E and TRF419. (Not shown: difference in price tag) Someone came up to me at the track, and asked me why I had the front body posts way up into the bumper of the TT. I told him it was so I could swap bodies between that TT and my TRF with relative ease. He looked at me as if I just lit a cup of water on fire, and stammered he never thought about a TRF and a TT having their body posts in the same location. This got me thinking. At some point I discovered that the two holes in the bumper plate of a TT must have some purpose, and a bit of experimentation showed me that it's so you can get some body posts in there and have them be in the same location as their higher-end chassis'. What I also found, is that there is hardly any information about that on the internet. So I've decided to do a little research, and write an article about body posts. Tamiya touring car body posts, to be precise. Tamiya's first proper touring car was the TA01. Isn't she pretty? This car had its body posts on the shock towers, the strongest (and highest) point of the car, but because of the angle of the front shock tower this meant that the forward posts ended up roughly slightly to the rear of the the front axle. On the rear they end up a bit behind the rear axle. I'm not sure if this was arbitrary, or if someone actually put a bit of thought behind it (knowing Tamiya, the latter), but this is where they ended up. Keep your eye out for these, as they turned out to be the de-facto standard for many TCs to come. The TA01 soon was joined by the TA02... .. which had its rear shock towers on a completely different location. But notice how Tamiya made these cool little extensions for the posts? That's so they end up in pretty much the same spot as a TA01. Probably done to maintain backwards compatibility with the older body shells (which, presumably, were already drilled/dimpled for the TA01, let alone the interior sets which had specific cutouts to cater for the rear body posts). As a TA01 and 02 don't differ much up front, the front posts stay put. At this point I presume Tamiya felt they had to keep a standard going. Because when the TL01 was released it came with hatchback-style body sets, which don't really work with the rear body post locations they'd used up until then. So they moved them forward to cater for the higher roofs and steeper rear windows, ending up roughly above the rear axle instead of aft of it. But! Tamiya had to have something to maintain backwards compatibility with the bodies they already had on the TA01 and 02. At this point I can presume they knew they couldn't easily deviate from these locations. so the TL01 came with a different set of rear body posts, meant to be installed with certain bodies, which put the rear posts on the exact location needed for those. Also note how the front body posts (to the right of the photo above) are angled so they still end up above and slightly aft of the front axle, exactly where the TA01 and 02 have them. The TA03, in all its variants (F, R, RS, FS, etc) followed the logic of the TA01/2, and came with a set bent back to suit the rearmost body holes of the older bodies... ...and a set to suit the higher-roofed TL01-style bodies. (Not the best picture, but it was all I could find. Sorry.) The TB01, TA04, TA05, TA06, and TA07 all share the same rear post location as the TL01 first introduced, right above the rear axle. But with the TA04 TRF (and related TRF404x), something else was introduced: Note where the front body posts are! They're in the front bumper, as the holes in the shock towers are used to adjust upper shock location. With the TB02 and TB03 sharing a lot of TA-blood, this carried over, and the TA05, 06 and 07 all had the body posts right above the rear axle and in the front bumper. But does that mean that Tamiya had forgotten about the rear-facing posts? Not at all. With the introduction of the TT01, you had the option to build it with the mounts at the TL01 location, but also the TA01 location! At the front of a TT01, you're to attach the front body posts at the TA01 through 03 location, right above the front axle. But! The front bumper plate of a TT01 has two extra holes, which exactly end up at the TA04 location! Pretty sure this makes the TT01 or 02 one of the most versatile chassis in terms of body post location. The TT02 actually has a slightly more elegant solution for the rear-facing posts. On the 01 they make a bit of a weird bend over the shock tower, but the 02 has these nifty spacers, and allows the posts to be mounted from both ends of the tower. But is that all? As the rear of my battered GT86 shell still has a set of holes unaccounted for, no, it's not. There's a set of weird, outboard holes. Those were first used with the TRF415: This car has its roots in racing, and with racing you want to spread the downforce acting on the rear deck as equally as possible. Hence, two body posts on the rear shock tower, but further outwards than the TA01/TL01 posts. All the TRF cars since the 415 has had their rear posts there. See the first picture above this thread, and notice how much further outwards the rear posts on the TRF (the one on the left, duh) are. Have I missed anything? I'm purposely sticking to the TCs here, and not all the buggy/truck variants (TT02B/DF02/HMMWV) as then the list would probably never end. Do let me know below.
  9. Hello, This my first post on the forum. i found a member (metalheaddad) who shows a method for mixing translucid color with metal color : Check out the paint.. translucent blue and anodized silver I want to make a dark brown metallic colour with Tamiya Lexan sprays. Is it possible to do that by using the same method ? If yes, do you know what translucid colour i have to mix with which metal color ? Otherwise, do you know other lexan paint spray with this kind of colour ? My goal is to get the colour of this body (Pontiac GTO) Thank you in advance for your advices.
  10. Hi Legends. I’m just starting out on my kit painting career. I was wondering, with regards to lexan bodies, why people don’t place the decals first, then spray over them. Would this not protect the decals from scratches etc? Or is it a case that the decals are too thin and any paint would show through and discolour them?
  11. I decided that it was time to finally create a spray booth so that I could keep painting through the winter. I’m about 90% done with my first attempt but I think it will make a good prototype. The structure is corrugated plastic panels that I bought at Home Depot. It’s held together with plastic L brackets that are glued to their respective panels. Masking tape holds the panels to eachother so that i can remove and dissemble the booth when not in use. For ventilation I’m using a 220 cfm bilge blower and dryer ducting that will vent outside. I picked a bilge blower since it’s rated to operate in explosive environments. Finally, a battery powered led under cabinet light provides illumination . I’ll post final pics but I hope this helps give others ideas so that they can keep painting while it’s cold out.
  12. OK so I realize this would be easier to explain if I had some pics to post, but I'm at work and don't at the moment. But I think some of you might get what I mean, have experience with this particular issue, etc. My Lunchbox is too yellow, or too light yellow, for my taste. I sprayed it with the called-for TS-16 but the hue of it just isn't the rich orange-tinged color that looks right to me. Why?? Is there some undercoat that needs to go down first to get the right color temperature? I'm thinking of peeling the decals, repriming and spraying it... but not if it means the same result. Anyone have any idea what I'm talking about, LOL?
  13. Hi all, I've been reading about backing metallic paint so as to make it lighter/darker/"metallic-ier" and had a few questions on exactly how to do it. For instance, I've read examples where people have done metallic red, then black or gunmetal. In those cases, how many layers of each paint would you do? The full 3 for each colour? Fewer? I've also read about people say doing 3 layers like metallic red, silver then finally black. Would that again be the full 3 layers each? Or something different? Any other tips/suggestions much appreciated!
  14. Hi guys, during Corona lockdown-times, I was thinking about doing something with my Dark Impact. What good be a good idea? Well, since I've always been a big fan of Ayrton Senna, I thought "let's do something with McLaren!". So, I bought some extra bodies to play with! Here is the result with the McLaren MP4/6 livery. Enjoy!
  15. Hey folks I've got a Monster Beetle build in the works, and have bought a Sand Scorcher body set (51046) for it. I actually really like the slightly off-white colour of the plastic substrate, it suits what I have in mind for the final result and would be happy enough to leave it unpainted. Is that possible? Is there any recommended clear paint or treatment to protect / 'seal' the plastic but keep the substrate colour? Thanks in advance!
  16. Hi everyone! I've seen that some people were struggling with mixing body color paint for Tamiya's Hyundai i20 bodyshell. I've just ordered one from Gmarket and while waiting for it to arrive I am considering some painting options. I'd like to stick with Hyundai's livery. I've been searching for appropriate body color because I don't have any option to mix colors as Tamiya recommending in body's manual. I stumbled upon a Tamiya PS-32 (corsa grey) and I'm curious about how does it look like in real life. I found some photos on the Internet but every one is different. Sometimes this corsa grey color is kinda blueish, sometimes it's greenish. Does anyone used PS-32 before and could help me to decide? This is the easiest option (for now) to paint body color but I'd like to hear some input from more experienced Tamiya PS paints users Thank you!
  17. HI All I purchased a Holiday buggy from my local model shop which was part completed...well sprayed olive green already and I have just finished it off. It has a non-stock more powerful 540 motor, full race bearings and upgraded front suspension. Whilst the olive green paint is great looking and I have used some of the supplied decals and my own, the guy who had it before me did not do the greatest spraying job. He didn't use a primer (I know some don't like this as it gives a 'mottled' effect - personally I like it) and after a run in the street (and a bash or two) the paint is flaking off. Can anyone help me with ideas for painting/weathering as I have never even attempted this before. It would be nice to patch it up and at the same time make it look great...all help gratefully recieved. Please see pic
  18. I recently got a grasshopper but I am not sure where to put the front lights. Here is the link for them: https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/125302/ They work really well, but I am not sure where to put them. I could 3d print a mounting device, but where to put that?
  19. Hi all. I've recently painted 2 shells for my dark impact although what I've learnt I feel can be applied to most if not all lexan window masking. Although I have only painted 2 shells I found what I believe the easiest and most accurate way of getting window masking right first time. On the first shell I cut lots of strips of tamiya masking tamiya which not only took ages but also found it wasn't particularly accurate. On the second shell I decided a different approach using the following steps: 1) I got myself a sheet of tamiya masking tape (part no. 87130) 2) Cut the windows out from the bodyshell sticker kit 3) Leaving the backing on the stickers, I rolled a small piece of regular sticky tape onto itself and sandwiched it between the backing of the window sticker and the non adhesive (yellow) side of the masking tape 4) I then cut out around the windows using them as a template and using a scalpel 5) Once all 3 were cut I could remove the undamaged window stickers (if I decided to use them at a later date). I was then left with perfect fit window masks to stick on the inside of the lexan Sadly I didn't think to take pictures of the process but if people want pics I can take some when I do my next shell. I couldn't believe how much easier it was to do the above and gave much better results.
  20. Ok I have a Celica GrB which has been stored for a long time. Its always been in my possession but some one spray painted the out sid of the original lexan body with commercial car spray paint. Believe it or not that paint has remained on the car all that time and not chipped at all. The question I have is can i rub it down and repaint it white on the outside? Or should I just buy repro? The body is in good nick with only one small crack near the headlight. What do you think guys?
  21. I figured this was best here since it's mostly big rigs that this applies to and the rig builders on TC must have come across this before I have to paint part of a chrome plated part. That is, the chrome plated light housing also has a little grille section on it which needs to be painted black. For little detail parts like this I usually brush-paint directly onto the plastic, but will I be able to brush paint onto a chrome part? My experience with Tamiya X-pots is that it won't stick to the chrome at all. I can try to remove the plating as best I can with some abrasive but as it's a small part I'm worried about going over and putting scratches where I don't want scratches. I'm getting to the end of my first rig build but the amount of painting of tiny little parts is slowing my build right down and really testing my painting skills
  22. Hi all. I know this may sound silly, but I've actually forgotten how to remove the protective film off a polycarbonate body. I recently bought a new body shell for my Brat off of ebay, and it was a Tamiya-made one. I have of course done it before with the body that came with the kit, but I can't seem to find an edge on the body. Any help on how to do it? Thanks!
  23. This is just a quick post, but if it should be in a different area, just say Ok so I'm thinking of getting a Midnight Pumpkin and putting a nice paint job on it. But, I'm only used to painting Polycarbonate/Lexan bodies, so how do I paint an ABS body? I've heard it's alomost like the 'oppostie' of polycarbonate bodies. So far as I know, you paint the main colour (base coat) on first, then paint details over the top of that. Or, do you need to paint each section induvidualy and mask areas? Please help! Also, does anyone have any tips for masking? Such as what tape to use etc... Thanks! Mackiatoe
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