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I always loved the Group C Variants. Especially those with the Mercedes-Benz, Nissan or Jaguar body shells. But I never owned one since a few month ago when I purchased the current re-release of the Mercedes-Benz C11 1990 Group C. Yes, it's not another silver one: I painted it in red. I also like the mixture of used concepts as the use of a bath tub middle section together with pan car elements. But there is also a downside: The limited options when it comes to tweaking the setup of the car and there is the asymmetrical design of the Steering on the front. So I decided to upgrade my chassis. The goal was to be able to use the alloy rear end and axle of a Tamiya F104 side dampers Symmetrical steering turnbuckles And I wanted to be able to setup the center damper independently from the T-Bar. Which means, that the T-Bar only affects the roll behaviour of the car, but not the action of the center damper. Therefor I split the T-Bar and used some parts from the TRF102. To accomplish this, I had to redesign the lower front chassis plate (to reposition the servo), the T-Bar and I had to design mounts for the side dampers. With the repositioned servo it is no longer possible to use the shortest wheelbase option. At least if a standard low profile servo is used. With this design, there are the following setup options available: Fine adjustment of the center dampers spring rate Droop setup Adjusting the rear ride height with the bushings of the F104 Adjustment of the side damping Changing the roll stiffness by adjusting the screw of the T-Bar front part All parts are machined from 2.5 and 1.5 Carbon. For the front part of the T-Bar, I opted for two variants: A soft variant in FRP, and a harder one in carbon. I also machined the small upper FRP part on the front using 1.5mm Carbon. Here you can see the bottom of the car with the new front chassis plate and the split T-Bar: A closer look to the rear: Mounts for the side dampers: A closer look to the front: View from above on the repositioned servo with steering turnbuckles of equal length: And this image shows the side dampers including the inner and outer mounts: The side dampers are spare parts for a Serpent F110 SF4 formula car, the center damper is the TRF Damper for the F103 as well as all alloy and fiber reinforced parts of the rear and the axle. On the front I also used the fiber reinforce wheel hubs. To be able to use bigger ball cups for the steering, I changed the ballheads to those from a DT-02 with Tamiya part number 9804154. I've seen them in another Group C project here. The first test of the upgraded C11 took place on a local indoor carpet track using a Hobbywing 21.5 G3R together with a Hobbywing Xerun X10 Handout Spec ESC. The car performed great. Even the quite simple front of the car (as there are no real setup options besides the springs) worked well out of the box. However, I think I will update the front suspension to a more state of the art one too in a next step. I am a bit concerned, if the use of a more powerful 13.5 motor would still allow enough driving time for a longer race. If yes, the chassis would be ready for Pro 10 race events here where 13.5 blinky setups are used most of the time. Maybe I have to find some Lipo Sticks with higher capacity (~6000mAh) and C-rates. Would be nice If someone has a hint where to find some. List of parts used (I hope, I did not miss anything): 1x Custom made 1.5mm carbon motor pod 1x Custom made 1.5mm FRP or carbon T-Bar 1x Custom made 2.5mm carbon front lower plate 1x Custom made 1.5mm carbon front upper plate 1x Custom made 2.5mm carbon outer damper mounts 1x Custom made 2.5mm carbon inner damper mount 1x Custom made TPU Bumper 1x Tamiya 54166 - Aluminium motor mount F104 1x Tamiya 84173 - Steel Axle 1x Tamiya 3450157 - Spacer rear axle 1x Tamiya 54158 - F104 Aluminium Diff Housing 1x Tamiya 54215 - Spur gear adapter (to be able to use regular 64dp/48dp gears) 1x Tamiya 54330 - Carbon reinforced c-parts (only the front and back parts of the motor mount used) 1x Tamiya 50591 - ball collar (front mount for the center damper) 1x Tamiya 53901 - TRF Special Damper 1x Tamiya 3450707 - Rear Hinge Cover (needed for the split T-Bar) 1x Tamiya 3450705 - Rear Hinge A (needed for the split T-Bar) 1x Tamiya 3450706 - Rear Hinge B (needed for the split T-Bar) 1x Tamiya 9804360 - Shaft (needed for the split T-Bar) 1x Tamiya 9804889 - Flanged Tube (needed for the split T-Bar) 1x Tamiya 9805777 - Screw (needed for the split T-Bar) 1x Tamiya 54154 - Carbon reinforce front uprights (optional) 1x Serpent 411360 - Side tubes 2x Tamiya 9804154 - Ball connector 5mm (replace the smaller original ones on the servo saver and the steering uprights) 1x Fenix G56-1345 - Steering turnbuckles 200mm or similar Various M3 screws 5mm Ball connectors and ball cups for steering rig and side tubes

I had the pleasure to find this beautiful kit under the tree this past Christmas. Thank you Santa, aka Mrs. Ferruz! The build brought me so much novelty that it almost felt like rediscovering RC altogether. It might be because it is my first pan car (with the exception of a TT02, I have only built offroaders so far) and in fact I expected it to be different, but I didn't know I was in for such a treat. Given how stimulating this build has been and how much I feel I have learned in the process, I thought I'd do a build thread. A thread specifically from the point of view of a newbie to this family of cars, including first impressions and all, so that hopefully future Group C builders will find it useful, and good enough to answer some basic questions. Before I start, it's fair to point out that I took huge inspiration from @TurnipJF's build: Pretty much everything I've done that differs from the instruction manual is based on his work and knowledge. Thank you Turnip for the advice, and last but not least for encouraging me to do a build thread. Upon opening the box and investigating its contents, these were my first impressions: -the body shell is BIG. Cool! 😎 -there are a few FRP parts, very appreciated extras as I thought this kit was going to be strictly plastic fantastic in stock form -no grease to be applied, one lone shock and a chassis with no trailing arms: indeed a different type of build compared to what I'm used to -the foam tires smell heavenly good. I'm a bit uncomfortable by the degree to which I like them ahahah -I got an overall feel of being about to build a spartan chassis, one conceived for performance with no room for bells and whistles. A pure speed machine (or so I hope), love it! Now about the livery. I put some thinking into the color scheme. While there's certainly nothing wrong with the box art silver (very Mercedes!), I felt like treating the sleek silhouette of the C11 to something a bit more elaborate, and possibly less seen around on the internet. A few Group C liveries were selected, and it proved hard to eventually pick one amongst the ones shortlisted. In the end, this is my choice: -Posche 962 Kenwood - And so, black and red car it is! ...plus some white. It will probably be a bit challenging, but definitely possible to adapt this color scheme from the Porsche 962. The shape is not that far off. I was able to find an MCI repro decal sheet for this livery, because Kyosho used to produce the 962 in these colors back in the day. It's very underwhelming to look at if compared to others (just a lot of Kenwood white decals in different size on whiteish background), but it will hopefully work with the plan I have in mind. The car will remain a Mercedes, so both decal sheets will be partially used. I am comfortable with a Kenwood sponsored C11 that never happened: being pretty much period correct, it doesn't bother me that in a parallel universe Kremer could have cheated on Porsche for a one night stand with a C11... 😂 ...but slapping a Porsche emblem on a Mercedes body would feel a bit too much, so I'll just have some fun adapting the 962's livery on the C11. As usual with my builds, the body shell will be worked on later, so I will face the painting challenge later on. Meanwhile, since the color scheme is now figured out, I have ordered some red locknuts to reinforce the black/red theme throughout the chassis. I have noticed that quite a few visible nuts are employed in this build, so hopefully this will be a cheap and effective way to ramp up the looks a bit. About the electronics, a red servo was selected for the above reason, and luckily Hobbywing's 1060, my brushed ESC of choice lately, is already sporting the right colors ✌ Now, after this long intro, let's go on with the build.

I intend to use this body for speed runs. This body will eventually get destroyed. I am not going for perfection or master modeler status here. I got the body from SabulaTech on eBay. It was listed as an error body, and only cost $7.99 USD. The error on the body was at the bottom of the shell in the back, and I planned to cut that part off anyways. So, at that price, I figured why not experiment. I picked up two of this body and one of another style. My idea was to make it fit an M-chassis with a heat gun, and see what happens. Maybe there's something to learn here about reshaping poly-carbonate bodies. I may make a second attempt at this using a mold that I am working on from a block of wood. I do have plans to get an RM-01, so I may save the other error bodies that I got for that. Here's how the body sat on top of the M-05. The body is resting on the top of the shocks. I screwed the back of the body down to a board. I used random objects as spacers to keep the chassis from rolling backwards, which also kept it lined up with the wheelbase. I rested a somewhat heavy book on the uncut part of the shell. My idea was that the weight of the book would pull the body down as the heat gun softened the body. I used a damp towel to keep the heat from going where I didn't want it to go. I used the heat gun on a low setting and now know that this step was unnecessary because the heat wasn't that extreme. I made a video of the heat gun process showing the body coming down. The entire video was 12 minutes long. I shorted it down to about 3 minutes. The audio is off, but it's just the sound of a heat gun. When I was finished, the shocks were not too hot to hold. They had some heat, but nothing that would cause damage to the chassis. As I said, the heat gun was on low, which is rated at about 350 degrees. For the last few seconds, I did run it on high, but over a larger area. Here's how it looked afterwards. It now looks like a Sting Ray, which was the decider of my color choice. I expected the body to sit lower than it did once trimmed. I now know to pull the body down further if I am to attempt this again. I also expected it to melt down and bubble out in a much bigger area. I did not expect it to take the exact shape of the top of the shocks. I've started carving away at a block of wood that I may use as a mold for the second attempt. My thinking is that this will give a much bigger spread, rather than taking the shape of the parts around it. Trimmed: M-05 rear body mounts did not clear the body. I has some extra body mounts on hand, and drilled and screwed them into the rear bulkhead for the droop screws. The front mounts are M-05. And a quick spray of Tamiya Gun Metal paint. I'm going to run it like this and see how it does. If I can improve on it by making a front spoiler to get rid of some of that ground clearance, I may do so.

Hello, i'm Johan from Belgium, last week i bought an old rc car and i never seen or heard anything from this car. The brand on the box is Tsukuda but this brand is only known for static model kits and puppets... I happen to have also an old AYK from 1979 i think, and this car has the same wheels and rear axle, in the Tsukuda box are two optional gears and thy are marked AYK. The chassis is also black anodized. Maybe someone know something about this car? Thank you.

Well here is something that I really don't want to part with, but it just sits in the living room gathering dust on display. So I would love it to go to a good home and maybe someone who will use it occasionally. As there are no super smooth surfaces where I am and nowhere to run it without wrecking it. So I have for sale a Corally SP12M in very good condition. Tyres still have loads of life left and the chassis itself is all in good condition with only small marks etc. Comes with standard acoms servo, mtroniks esc with a deans connector and a Reedy 27 Turn MVP motor that is brand new (only been bench ran in) . Also fitted to it is the gorgeous Tamiya 1/12 Mazda 787b #18 car bodyset. The bodyset is brand new and painted/decaled by myself to a pretty good standard. I apologise about the pic the LED lights in my kitchen were playing havoc with photos. But I am more than happy to take some better ones a bit later when its more daylight. [/img] /img] ] /img] img] No idea what its worth TBH as I haven't seen another for sale, but feel free to make me an offer. Happy to post worldwide at cost. Could also be interest in a trade, so what you got?? Thanks James No offers? Ok how about £75 posted or I could do just the body for £30 posted. Thanks James

As above looking for any spare parts for the Corally SP12M. Let me know what you have. Thanks James

Been looking for a Corally SP12 for ages, but they seem very hard to come by in the UK now. Especially older early/mid 90's examples. Anyway, today I seen a "R/C Car and Spares" for sale on my local Gumtree and it was up for £10. So I had a look at the pics and it looked like a Corally SP12 (or some sort, still unsure as to the differences in the SP12's) Went round to look at it and the seller indeed confirmed it was a Corally SP12 so I now have it at home and already stripped down. Ordered a bearing set from RC Bearings for it, but just wandering where the best place for info is on them? Or how to tell what model of SP12 I have? Many Thanks James