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Found 8 results

  1. Hello all, I recently took delivery of a Tamiya Racing Fighter (DT-03) kit. Been waiting on this one for quite a while (I ordered back when this pandemic started and only arrive a few days ago). I'm really looking forward to this build as this will be my first Tamiya buggy since the original Hornet release back in the mid-to-late 80s! I'm pretty sure a lot has changed in that time. During my wait for the kit to be delivered, I spent a fair bit of time reading the boards and watching YouTube videos and I've begun to amass various Hop-Up options several folks have suggested. Some have arrived with several still on their way. However the one that is proving to be difficult to find at any sort of reasonable price - either online or in stores - is the Tamiya Hop-Up Option #54629 steel 19T 0.8 Module pinion. The lowest I've found is around $30 shipped, coming from overseas. This is a part with a $5 retail price! I happened to wander into a local hobby store earlier today looking to get some PS paint and asked if they had anything equivalent to the Tamiya Hop-Up Option part. They handed me a hardened steel 19T 32pitch absolute pinion (part number 1719) from Robinson Racing. The sales person said that the 32pitch is the same as 0.8 Module and that I shouldn't have any issues. For the price ($5) I figured I had nothing to lose, but before I install it I wanted to ask if anyone here can verify that this Is indeed true? Thanks very much in advance. Cheers! Michael
  2. I need to vent for a moment. I've spent way too much time lately looking for 0.8mod pinions for use in Tamiya and Kyosho vintage cars. Seems most manufacturers group 0.8mod with 32p calling them "the same". They are close. Very close in fact, but THEY ARE NOT EXACTLY THE SAME. And when you are talking about mechanical tolerances measured in 0.1mm variances, it makes a difference. You can have PERFECT gear mesh between the pinion and spur, but if they are not the exact same gear pitch, you will have extra noise and extra wear compared to when both gears are the exact same pitch. 32p = 0.7938mod 0.8mod = 31.75p Practically speaking, DOES THIS MATTER? For the most part, no it doesn't. You can use 32p pinions with 0.8mod spurs and not have any trouble. Many, many people will attest to this, including racers that really push their cars. I'm sure there will be replies this post confirming that using 32p with 0.8mod spurs is perfectly fine. But, if you categorize yourself as a perfectionist, anal, or autistic, it will bother you that you are mixing 32p with 0.8mod. It bothers me. I won't say which category I fall into. I wish manufacturers were honest and factual when representing their products. If the pinion is machined as 32p, say so. It if is machined as 0.8mod, say so. Do not say 32p/0.8mod. It is false advertising. The math proves this. It cannot be both at the same time. The machining setup required to grind the gear teeth is different between 32p and 0.8mod. It is one, or the other. From my research it looks like the choices for true 0.8mod pinions for 1/8" shaft motors are few and far between: You can buy the butter-soft Tamiya aluminum stock pinions. Too many to list, but they are cheap at least. But you risk stripping out the spur once the pinion has worn down enough. If you keep track of wear, you can avoid spur damage in most cases. These do not last very long as most of us on this forum know. That's why switching to a steel pinion is one of the most common recommendations to make to someone that asks "I'm about to build ______. What hop-ups should I add to my car?" You can buy the Tamiya steel pinions: Tamiya 54628 Steel Pinion 17T 0.8mod Tamiya 54629 Steel Pinion 19T 0.8mod But as you can see, there are only 17T and 19T choices. You can buy Kyosho vintage pinions: W-5009 - Hard Pinion 9T 0.8mod W-5010 - Hard Pinion 10T 0.8mod W-5011 - Hard Pinion 11T 0.8mod OT-23 - Aluminum Pinion 12T 0.8mod OT-50 - Aluminum Pinion 13T 0.8mod OT-51 - Aluminum Pinion 14T 0.8mod OT-24 - Aluminum Pinion 15T 0.8mod OT-52 - Aluminum Pinion 16T 0.8mod OT-53 - Aluminum Pinion 17T 0.8mod UM-24 - Aluminum Pinion 19T 0.8mod Since these are vintage, they are usually a bit more expensive and harder to find. And the aluminum ones are butter-soft like Tamiya stock so you don't want them anyway. You can buy the Carson steel pinions: 500013400 - Steel Pinion 10T 0.8mod 500013401 - Steel Pinion 11T 0.8mod 500013403 - Steel Pinion 13T 0.8mod 500013439 - Steel Pinion 14T 0.8mod <--- Yes, part # is correct. 500013404 appears to be some Audi Quattro S1 1/10 scale body. 500013405 - Steel Pinion 15T 0.8mod 500013406 - Steel Pinion 16T 0.8mod 500013407 - Steel Pinion 17T 0.8mod 500013408 - Steel Pinion 18T 0.8mod 500013409 - Steel Pinion 19T 0.8mod For 5mm motor shafts, Robinson Racing makes some high carbon steel 0.8mod pinions. Their website is broken, so you can't see the part numbers for them and I don't care enough to look it up somewhere else because I don't use 5mm motor shafts. So far I have not been successful in finding any Chinese manufacturers of 0.8mod pinions for 1/8" motor shafts. I've just placed a ridiculous order ($$$) with Tony's Tamiya Parts for Carson 0.8mod pinions because there is literally no other choice, which is rather frustrating. I live in the USA, so Carson is generally not available here except through sellers like Tony's. Thanks for listening to my rant. I feel a little bit better.
  3. hi everyone who reads this, I own a tamiya m05 v2 pro and the standard diff (not the ball diff) suddendly started knocking and it slows the car down. I took my diff/transmission apart and gave it a quick clean but it didn't help. What should I do? take the car apart and clean it really good? just buy the standard ball diff? or is it not the diff but something else? I hope someone can help me
  4. The awesome new Tamiya M-07 Concept car has one flaw. There is a hole on the bottom of the chassis, said to allow access to the pinion screw, that has the potential to allow dirt and pebbles into the transmission. This would wreak havoc on the gears. Tamiya provides aluminum glass tape to cover the hole. Unfortunately, the tape peels off after the first run or two as the chassis bottoms out on the ground. I created this plug to close the hole and keep debris out of the transmission. Unlike the tape, this plug is reusable. I suggest you purchase at least two plugs so that you have at least one spare in the event that it gets lost or misplaced. You can even share with your friends that run the M-07. https://www.shapeways.com/product/SEVSZVNE6/tamiya-m-07-concept-chassis-plug?optionId=63334527
  5. I've got a few new old stock brass 20t original pinions for SRB's Champ etc £7 each inc P+P in UK PP gift
  6. All prices inc. UK shipping, no prob to combine postage or all the lot for £30 4x new 50520 soft springs £2.50 sent in envelope 4x new rear black friction shock plastic parts (from dt-02 and dt-03) £2.50 sent in envelope 10x new tamiya kit grease £5 sent in jiffy bag set of 4 used terra scorcher upper arms £2.50 set in envelope Assorted used and ok condition thundershot parts £5 sent in jiffy bag Pinto / Panda spares not used from project inc MSC and 2x german language manuals £5 sent in jiffy bag 2x used 540 motors taken from my dual hunter project, tamiya 18t pinions look good still and motors work ok £5 sent in jiffy bag Absolutely tatty and desperate Thundershot body and cover - useful if you have nothing else or for a runner £8 sent in box Used slightly scratched Dual Hunter body, rear mount holes damaged but still mounts fine, no wing £12 sent in a box New tamiya pinions, 1x0.8mm 15t, 1x 16t 0.6mm, 2x17t 0.8mm, 2x16t 0.6mm from tt-02b so seems steel? and 1x21t 0.6mm £7 sent in jiffy bag 1x used acoms as-11 servo, works ok £4 sent in jiffy bag 4x used friction shocks taken from my dual hunter project £3 sent in envelope CC-01 lowering kit parts minus wheels,tyres and foams £4 sent in envelope
  7. I recently picked up a TBLM-02S 10.5T brushless motor. I want to try putting it in my Buggy Champ but the instructions suggest a gear ratio of 9:1. Are there gears out there that give me this ratio and fit under the gear cover? If so, what's a good place to buy these type of gears? -- Jeff
  8. Hello everyone, I'm new around here I'll give a quick intro first and cut to the chase below. I got my DT from a garage sale, non running state. The remote was missing, no batteries, questionable electronics, but I decided to put effort in it to have it running again. I modified it to LiPO/brushless combo and not knowing what to expect really I took it to the street to have a test run. I pulled the trigger not expecting too much, but I was REALLY suprised with the result. That thing can really go! I had to reduce both throttle and acceleration to about a half in order to be manageable and not to destroy the tranny. So after a couple of broken front shock towers, and making a front wheel-covering fender for it, this happened: The Chase a stripped spur gear! Not a biggie, but I'd like to ask you fine gentleman where/what should i get? I think the current one is stock, pinion gear as well (18t i think). They lasted fine i guess, they were left as is when i rebuilt it, and they weren't in a new condition. I understand that DT shares transmission parts with TA01 chassis? I looked at some spur gears, but the pictures seem not the same as the one i have, so i'm unsure it would all fit. I think i also need a new pinion gear, the teeth on this one seem a little crooked. So, any pointers and help are wellcome im a noob with RC cars and it took me sweet time even to figure out what is what and whos who in Tamiya datasheets for discontinued/old models. Thanks in advance!
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