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Found 20 results

  1. Tamiya QD Super Sabre "technical review" The Tamiya QD series (1/14 scale) are advanced toy grade cars that were many people's entry into the world of RC cars. The transmitter electronics have the OKI L9362 encoder integrated circuit and the encoded output is on pin 9. There are two internal potentiometers for steering and propulsion adjustment. The transmitter has channel 1 as throttle and channel 2 as steering (in reverse of a hobby-grade transmitter). PPM signal on pin 9 of the OKI L9362 i.c. The circuit diagram of the transmitter: This buggy was powered by 8 AA batteries. I have removed the battery terminals to insert a 9.6V NiCd (Ni-MH) battery. To disassemble, you remove the body (3 screws) and an electronics cover (4 screws) on the car. The car circuit board The power supply connector is soldered as seen in the picture. There are two holes to adjust the neutral of the steering and throttle on the circuit board. The electronic board has the OKI L9367 integrated circuit; pin 16 is the input signal coming from the receiver and on this pin you can see the amplified PPM signal. This one is the diagram: The 27Mhz receiver, demodulator and intermediate frequency filters is very similar to the diagram shown in the OKI L9362 datasheets: And the signals are these: The rear wheels have a 6mm hex axle; the hexagon can be pulled out: it is inserted into the splined shaft. The shaft is 4mm diameter and the nut is M3. To remove the gearbox, first remove the shock absorbers from the brackets. Remove the motor cover and then remove the motor. The gearbox is held by 4 screws on its bracket. The 280 motor has an 8 tooth 0.6M pinion. Its specification is 17000 rpm (not load) at 7.2V (0.32A) or 22,600 rpm at 9.6V; It matches the RC-280SA-2865 motor specifications. To access the inside of the gearbox, 3 screws are removed: The gearbox has two speeds: slow speed: 1: 16.3 ratio (40/8 * 49/15). fast speed: 1: 10.2 ratio (40/8 * 43/21).. The speed with the 67mm diameter wheels would be around 21 or 22 Km/h. This car has front independent suspension with friction dampers (spring only) without any additional anti-rebound system. The rigid rear suspension was inherited from another Tamiya buggies (Hornet, Grasshopper). Spare tires are hard to find; If we want to change the rear wheel for a standard 12 mm hexagon wheel, we can do it with a 4mm hexagonal adapter (with grub screws): Wheel axle detail. The Super Sabre in action (Badiola RC photographer): These thread is in spanish lang. in https://reparar-cochesrc.blogspot.com/2015/12/reparar-antena-de-emisora-tamiya-qd.html
  2. Hi All, I'm new here, names Tan. So I was clearing out my parents attic and found my old Scooby (46301) Evo (46306) and RS (46312) so decided to relive my childhood/ early adulthood by charging them up and having a rip in my spare time (which I think we all have a bit of during this pandemic) Anyway long story short, the Evo wont turn left and responds to the transmitter sporadically- which makes it seem like its nuts! - a quick visual check shows no signs of damage to the steering mech but i have yet to open it up and take a closer look. The Scooby wont turn on, no matter how many different battery packs i have tried (all known to work by the way) and its transmitter wont turn on either. Same quick visual shows no damage but i havent opened it up yet- plan on tackling the Evo first as at least it runs. I have tried to look through old posts and came across the one (By CoolHands, January 18, 2003 in Vintage Tamiya Discussion) called "Where can I find out about QuickDrives?" which miramar helpfully posted a link to an older post (http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1738) but this link is dead. Can anyone help me/ point me to where i should be looking for more info on how to repair them? any helpful keywords, or phrases? Or anyone who owns these cars too and has been able to restore them and could share how they did it? Many thanks to all and happy RCing! Photos (1).zip
  3. Hello I just purchased my first RC car which is the Quick Drive 2001 Subaru 1:10 scale . I was wondering if I could chasis swap it to a better performing chassi with minimal hassle. I want to use this car on the dirt in more rally conditions with jumps. Anything helps thanks in advance
  4. I thought I had a thread about this but can't find it so if I already have one, it can be merged. I built this a good few years ago but someone has been asking questions so thought I would post a few pics of the install. It has been years since I worked on this. Gave up after around 35?mph decided that I couldn't really compete with 1/10 scale in the top speed Tamiya thread but I believe it's still in the top 20. Originally bought as a non runner for less than £20. Added M chassis rally block tyres. Ezrun 1/18th? It's a 2030 can at around 5700kv I think?. If I remember right, it's the 12turn motor. And the ESC takes 3s with multiple programmable features. Standard 1/10 servo held with servo tape and a cable tie through chassis to prevent any movement. Removed part of the top deck to get battery lower down. Running a badly puffed 2200mah 2,s. It puffed in a different car, it should be plenty for this car. Ball ends and adjusters with M3 threaded rod. Bottom of chassis with battery door open. I think that's it, if I remember anything else or you want to know anything, please ask.
  5. Have been searching for some alternative replacement tires for QD Buggies. Mini tires have the right ID but for the rear they are too narrow. After I got my SW01 lunchbox for which i purchased different tires i tested the included 51589 racing truck tires on a rear qd buggy rim, et voila perfekt fit. These front and rear combinations worked great on gravel and tarmac. And yes i allowed for some creative decaling
  6. Just did a quick conversion on a new Tamiya quick drive buggy.. This was a thundershot originally and it had the bearing-less front wheels.. I fixed that by drilling out the plastic uprights and fitting an axle from the later car that accepts 1150 bearings . I haven't fixed the wheels, just drilled the upright to accept the 5mm axle..so I can use 1150 bearings on the front.. So this is your starting point, Rip all this out,, Servo, circuit board, on/off switch and charge port.. This circuit board was working, so I labeled all the wires and de-soldered them.. This one's from 1988 Fit a standard 1/10 servo with tabs trimmed off. I had to relocate the wire exit on the servo, but I just cut a hole, moved the wires and hot-glued it exiting the bottom plate of the servo. There are 2 plastic clips to hold the servo in, but I used a blob of hot glue as well, just to make sure it won't come loose without force. Then we have a 2.4Ghz receiver, and a brushed Hobbywing ESC.. switch has been hot-glued in place, so the old pins on the top tray may need trimming to fit, I believe that they held the original switch in place. Bottom shot Need a bigger capacity battery, or another one the same.. You can also see the standard Tamiya servo saver.. (from a Tamiya kit, not from this model) Servo saver holes drilled out to 3mm to fit the 5mm brass ball connectors. (4x brass ball connectors) Then some 3mm threaded rod,(I cut a M3 50mm machine screw down to size), these connect the servo to the wheels. Another servo shot!!!.. I had to trim a few mm off the servo hole to stop it binding. You can make out the rough edge nearest the brass balls.. not much needed removed, I could have messed around with servo savers for a better fitting one . Not touched the gearbox yet, just soldered the wires from the ESC directly to the motor., However there do seem to be some changes to the gearbox in the later cars I have..
  7. Hi I brought a Tamiya 1:10 Quick drive Ford Focus 2001 car and remote off eBay, and all working fine, but since it’s been in a loft for 20 years (previous owner), I have bought a new battery, but wondered if there were other “parts that could be upgraded” , would like to convert from 2wd to 4wd and upgrade the motor and suspension etc to give it a new lease of life for when the RC clubs start up again i hope someone can help
  8. Hi, sorry in advance because I don't really know where to post this, it's for a build but not a Tamiya car, but using Tamiya parts.. The story: I got a WPL D12 Suzuki Carry truck, probably most of you heard about it, super cheap, fully proportional, nice looking cool thing for 30$. Okay it's a toy, but it looks great and is fun to use at home with your kids. Of course I had to improve it, at least visually, and everybody knows that nothing better than a pair of good wheels to make anything look good. This is one of the best examples I found ( no idea which rims are.. the tires are Tamiya drifting ones ) I was trying to find alternatives to change the original ones, but keeping the sense of scale.. As this is a Japanese Key Car, wheels are smaller than regular cars, so any 1/10 touring car wheels tend to look too big and end up making the truck look stupid. In the search for the wheels I found that most people are using the ones included with the Swift and Mini Tamiya M-chassis models, but I personally don't like the looks and are quite hard to find these days.. Alternatives are 3D printed drift wheels, but I am not into drifting. Looking for alternative solutions, I started thinking on using wheels of smaller scales, like Tamtechs, or QD series.. stuff that are 1/12 or 1/14. And came up with these rare Option part for QD buggies called QD Slick F&R 1/10 TA43003 , a set of complete wheels to fit QD buggies. I think these wheels look amazing, at the beginning I thought these where F1 wheels, and I guess these might share some parts with F1 1/10 cars from the past.. but I found were made for these small QQ Buggies. The wheels seemed to be perfect because the rear wheels hex is actually 6mm very close to the 5mm of the D12, so with a minor .5mm layer the wheels might work perfectly without the need of a 5mm to 12mm hex. Rear wheel instructions: I couldn't find much info about them, and made my guessing about the size.. I read on a French forum that were just 58mm diameter.. The D12 original wheels are 55mm so, I thought it might work visually. I found a guy here in Spain who had batch of 4 sets and I got them 4 for a reasonable price.. I had to try This is 1 of the 4 sets, gorgeous right? The problem, the wheels are actually pretty big!! I never thought a 1/14 slick might be so big.. It's clear these wheels were made to look comical and not realistic. The front ones are 63mm in external diameter, and the rear ones, are 68mm!!! Also the width of the tires is a massive 33mm for the fronts and 46mm for rears. This is how the truck looks with front and rear wheels.. This one is using just the front ones ( a bit better? ) I know it looks cool haha.. and might end up keeping the wheels like this, but nowadays it is not what I was looking for. So, THE QUESTION: Both front and rear rims are 42mm (1.6") diameter, the front ones are 30mm wide the rear ones are 41mm. I asume the rear ones are unusable for this project, but maybe I can find some thinner slicks to fit the front 42mm rims and keep the total wheel size around the 55mm of the original wheels. Do you guys know about any tire I might be able to fit these front rims??? Thanks!! PS: Got two more sets I might want to sell if anyone is interested for anything. Any comments just about the truck itself, the looks or whatever is also welcome. Front wheels scheme. Washers, tube, nuts and wrench are included!!
  9. Hi. I have a Super Sabre QD car which has developed a fault and only goes backwards. Anyone interested in buying it?
  10. Hello, please could anyone help, I’m after some advice on replacing the wheels on my very old QD thunder dragon? I’m looking to go brushless but the rear wheels are seriously tired. Any suggestions would be amazing. I have bought some 60D rally block tyres which I would like to still use if possible? I’m new to this and doing the build for my daughter she is 6. Thanks
  11. Vintage, near mint condition Tamiya QD cars; - Mitsubishi Lancer EVO VI WRC 46306 - Peugeot 206 WRC 46305 Was clearing out my attic and found these beauty's, originally bought them in 2000 on release for my then 2 year old son, opened once as i had to try these babys out and then put into storage, it is now 2019 as they were forgotten, life gets busy sometimes. £350 for both & offers
  12. Hi! I am so glad to have found this forum! Hopefully someone can help me out here. I have an old Tamiya QD monster beetle from the early early 90s. It’s missing both transmitter and receiver antennas. They broke of many years ago. Now I have a six year old son who would love to play with the old car. Would it be possible for someone to help me out with measuring the antennas exact length? That way I would be able to order spares. //Andreas (a hopeful dad) :-)
  13. I'm looking for a set (4 shocks) of Tamiya 43007 yellow CVA shocks for the Tamiya Quick Drive QD 1/14 monster trucks like the Midnight Pumpkin, Monster Beetle, Blackfoot, and Clod Buster. I'm also looking for the Tamiya 43013 black can 280 motor for the Quick Drives. Must be willing to ship to Canada, please message me if you have some for sale. Thanks
  14. PRICES REDUCED: U.S. $375 w/ free USPS priority shipping; or Non-U.S. $350 plus shipping PM me, or go here http://www.ebay.com/itm/332034645077 100% MINT MRC-sealed NIB QD Monster Beetle - extremely rare in this condition This is about the size of a NIB Blackfoot - see pics with other kits for scale. Will discount shipping to keep it reasonable.
  15. Hi all! While waiting for some parts to arrive - my Brat is out of action - I got bored and decided to dig out a rather old vehicle of mine. Behold: the Tamiya QuickDrive Trailmaster! Uploaded with ImageShack.com This was my first, proper hobby-grade R/C car back from 2001, although I was too young to properly understand R/C cars back then Surprisingly, it practically all works fine. Unbelievably, the battery in the transmitter still works, despite not being used in ages while still connected. However, the battery I had for the car back in 2001 was a little 9.6v NiCD from GP (not a well known brand) and sadly it doesn't work anymore. I believe I may have left it connected to the car for a long time without usage, and it just doesn't charge properly. However, I was able to get my standard 6 cell NiMH pack to work with it, with a little improvisation: Uploaded with ImageShack.com Not practical, but it worked. Right, time for some driving! Uploaded with ImageShack.com Uploaded with ImageShack.com Excuse the quality of the shots, they're frames from a video I took on my phone and they never tend to come out too well... This thing is fun to drive, but the harsh truth is that it's pretty rubbish. Tires aren't glued, and have very little grip with wheel, let alone the ground. The stock servo seems to like turning to the left more than the right, not sure why that is but taking it apart to have a look should fix that. Also, the motor in it is only a little 280 sized thing and is very slow. I'd say it does 15 mph max on a full charge, on tarmac. But, this was never intended to be a high end car. It really was a basic as you could get back in 2001. I intend to get a new battery like my old one, so that it'll fit in the car and not have to be taped on So, does anyone else have one of these/still have one of these? And has anyone had any luck trying to upgrade it? I'm not sure it's actually possible due to how it's built, but feel free to discuss the QD range here Cheers, Mack
  16. Vintage NIB Tamiya QD Thunder Dragon RTR Brand New Never Removed from Box 46003 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-NIB-Tamiya-QD-Thunder-Dragon-RTR-Brand-New-Never-Removed-from-Box-46003-/331808051193Brand New, NIB - Never run. Removed from box only to take one pic of underside of chassis. Complete, vintage, in rare condition. Released in 1989. Complete RTR Kit. Takes 8x AA batteries for buggy, 1x 9v battery for transmitter. Great runner for beginner - small transmitter ideal for younger kids. No need for charger. Flat Rate U.S. Shipping $14.95. Flat Rate International Shipping $24.95 (to anywhere). If either shipping option costs less than the flat rate, I'll refund the difference.
  17. I've taken $25 off the price for this, now $275 which I think is a bargain for this, and will consider reasonable offers... would love to get it sold by this weekend so I can get it shipped out by Monday. http://www.ebay.com/itm/331780011859 Here are some pics... and I've added a pic in a reply to show how sizeable this thing is compared to some other kits. It may be 1:14 scale but it's about as massive a box as a vintage Blackfoot. Here's a pic with some of my other sealed NIB kits to illustrate the size. I'm not embellishing when I say $275 is a bargain. FYI - to my amazement, since it's the only other one I've ever seen in sealed NIB condition, there happens to be another of the exact same item on ebay currently. It's priced $150 higher... helping to illustrate how good / fair of a price I'm asking: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1989-TAMIYA-1-14-Midnight-PUMPKIN-QD-Sealed-NIB-/171820060041 Alrighty - done and sold! Agreed to an offer of $250 -- a solid deal for the buyer and I get to handle the logistics over the weekend. Win-win.
  18. I'm considering letting go of a sealed vintage (obviously) NIB QD Midnight Pumpkin RTR that, among my vintage NIB's has less of a nostalgia connection with me personally, although I know others for whom it's high on their list. It's also really hard to find in this condition. I wanted to gauge interest in it and give my fellow TCers a window to work out a deal for it if they're interested before going and selling it on ebay to a stranger... keep it in the family so to speak. If interested, even if you aren't sure exactly of the details, etc let me know ASAP so I can hold off on listing it. A lot of TCers know I'm really flexible with working out deals with people so don't be afraid to ask. I can only wait a couple days at most if I don't hear from anyone as I owe Mokei for a King Cab body set, and he's going to break my legs if I don't pay up! LOL EDIT: Updated with better pics above...
  19. I'm feeling impulsive this morning and so I have relisted my Boomerang and Madcap NIB body sets at reduced prices and I'll also offer, for fellow TC members (make sure to tell me in your 'best offer'), to drop the price to $100 for either or $180 for both if you buy both ($100 accepted for first, $80 for second). Shipping included in the U.S. or at-cost 1st-class int'l post, and probably cheaper than quoted by ebay (will adjust down / refund excess). http://www.ebay.com/sch/waynethebrain/m.html Vintage Boomerang NIB Body Set (TCer price = $100, or $90 for 2) Vintage Madcap NIB Body Set (TCer price = $100, or $90 for 2) Vintage QD Manta Ray NIB Body Set (TCer price = $30) Vintage Saint Dragon Decals (TCer price = $25, or $20 with anything else)
  20. Funny story - I didn't get a chance to watch Avengers: Age of Ultron in the theater. Had to wait FOREVER till it came out digitally (today). Luckily it still came with special features, and while watching them lo and behold, a little friend! HEY, I KNOW YOU !! Anyone else know of any choice Tamiya cameos? I know of the epic Punky Brewster one... but there must be others.
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