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Since becoming serious (as much as a non-humorless person can be said to be) about collecting Tamiya, rediscovering it after the beginning of the re-release era, it turned out I wasted a lot of time, effort and resources on quite a few projects and purchases that I thought were vintage but weren't... or that were but I thought nothing of replacing parts with new re-issued parts thinking they were identical. Often the differences / tells were staring me right in the face but I didn't know what to look for. Even now, and even among experienced members and collectors I find there are pockets of knowledge many have on this subject with respect to a few models they've become sort of 'specialists' in, and simultaneously quite a bit of uncertainty or total unfamiliarity for others. Although there are some resources that do a great job of introducing and explaining the situation, such as this excellent post from the TCer @Hibernaculum on his own blog, there is no one place I could find that could be considered a good central reference for someone trying to find out how to tell if something is original / genuine / vintage or not. By no means do I know enough on my own to fill this need, so I invite you all who know anything from one little tip to an encyclopedic knowledge of every variant of a model Tamiya ever released. We may as well also include Kyosho, Associated, etc to the extent relevant. The format that I think would be easiest and most useful for expanding on the existing compiled notes on a given model is to keep each post related to one model per, then anyone who'd like to add details or make corrections just quote or copy/paste the full contents of the most recently updated information about that one model, add their piece or modify what was there if/as needed... and then do the same separately for any other model(s). I don't have time right this second to do a complete coverage of the Frog, which I'll start off with since it was a couple mislabeled-as-vintage Frog items that made me think we needed a place to store and reference information like this. I also think it's important that people know they can add just fragments of useful information and don't feel like they need to post perfectly-formed analyses covering everything about a model. It's fine to do that, but not necessary, and I think we'll amass more useful information by keeping the bar low. If you have $20 of info to contribute, great... but also great if you only have $0.20 to add right now. So, I will start us off with a few Frog things in the next post. ps - I want to point out that for the most part, parts or models that are described as vintage or original that aren't one or both usually aren't the result of intentional misinformation. It's probably just a lack of knowledge combined with an under-appreciation of the significance of the difference that results in the proliferation of these kinds of mistakes. But it certainly doesn't help people who do care but are still learning develop an accurate knowledge. Hopefully, this thread can help.
Hi all, I'm returning to a fun hobby and are in the middle of building a re-issue Wild One and have a couple of questions that I hope someone out there can help me with: 1) I have some aftermarket wheels that have a large, six-sided hub pattern, so I ordered some wheel adapters based on some information provided on another forum. While the adapters for the rear worked great, the front are not correct. The problem is that the front axles are just spindles and do not have an option for the small metal tube that runs through the rear axle - which the adapters use to lock onto the axle. Is it supposed to be like that for the front wheels? Or am I just supposed to bolt up the rims to the existing spindles? 2) What is the best method to trim the edges from the front bumper? As it looks like my aftermarket wheels are going to rub.... 3) I have a ESC and 10T 3500 brushless engine ( I think it was the "EZ-RUN" set). Is a 3S lipo a good match for that ESC/engine combination? 4) Is there any way to not use the 4xAA battery pack (which I believe powers the receiver) and still have it function correctly? 5) There is a small switch in the ESC that is connected by a thin wire - what is that for? Is there a way to override that and have it run on the receiver power? Any help would be much appreciated and I'll be sure to post pics of the build when it's done (att. is a mock up so far)! Thanks in advance!