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Found 12 results

  1. Last year I converted a Grasshopper 2 to independent suspension all round using a Thundershot rear gearbox and suspension and some 3D printed parts I designed. I called Project Ultra G. Here's the build thread: As this conversion uses a lot of Rising Fighter parts and the fact that that buggy comes with fairly modern 12mm hex rear wheels, then that kit is the best place to start. The Rising Fighter body is very Hornet like so build an Ultra Hornet! My conversion was predicated on using the neon yellow Super G wheels which I love, but it would run modern tamiya 2wd bearing front/12mm hex rear wheels just as well and open up your tyre choice. Although I have tried low profile Schumacher Cut Staggers on the front and they drop the ground clearance too much. I use Schumacher Minipins which are regular profile and have a really nice level of clearance. Rising Fighter kit fronts and Super G kit tyres work great too for ground clearance. The main things you need are a buggy of the types mentioned and a Thundershot rear gearbox and suspension. Here are the parts you need from my Shapeways store: Front suspension conversion for the Thundershot wishbones - http://shpws.me/QLkw If you don't mind mismatched coloured wishbones (the Thundershot wishbones are blue) then my front suspension conversion using DT02/3 wishbones does just as well The bobbins for mounting the gearbox to the Rising Fighter transmission mounts (you need 2) - http://shpws.me/QLky Direct fit front uprights with better clearance and 5 deg caster fit perfectly with the Thundershot wishbones. You need 1 of each (or just get DT02/3 c hubs and fit with spacers as I did originally)- http://shpws.me/QLkD http://shpws.me/QLkG If you want to go whole hog then the Thundershot/Dragon 3 deg toe in rear uprights are these: http://shpws.me/QLjE http://shpws.me/QLjx Thundershot rear uprights work just as well really. I just like fiddling. I'd highly recommend getting the DT02 turnbuckle set 53828 as you'll get all the bits you need for upper arms and steering arms including rod ends and ball screws. The rear suspension in particular benefits from upper camber link, but you will need to make a chassis end rod end using a spacer and a ball collar. For the rest you need some 5mm thick ABS/styrene plastic to cut to shape to make the solid rear gearbox mount plates. The rest is just M3 threaded rod, lots of rod ends and ball screws and nuts to make the chassis reinforcement and top gearbox connections. Shocks are 64mm front/94mm rear so either the DT03 shock set 54567 or for more tunability 50519 and 50520. I run the stiffer DF03 silver rear springs from 53927 and DT03 kit fronts (very soft). Any of the TRF201 front spring set work nicely too. Would be great to see another one. As I mentioned earlier, I think the Rising Figher is probably a better basis for this project if you're not hopelessly attracted to the Grasshopper 2 Super G like I am!
  2. So I did a 4 bar front suspension mod on my Rising Fighter a few weeks ago because I had so much DT03 stuff lying around due to hopping up that buggy. Thread is here if you are interested I needed to get something from Shapeways for work so knocked up a solid lower wishbone mount for the conversion. It arrived today. Needed a bit of fettling but is pretty much there. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Rising Fighter is so much fun to drive now!
  3. Hi, my son just got a 'rising fighter' for christmas, we are total novices, but we have managed to get the car running, it seems to go forward when it should go backwards and visa versa, however that didn't stop him from using it and loving it. The pressing problem now is that it doesn't move at all. When we switch it on, it just beeps and a red light flashes on the receiver. please help us to solve this in very simple terms, so me and my 8 year old may understand many thanks and happy new year
  4. These are just 15min from me if anyone is interested https://www.gumtree.com/p/hobbies-collectibles/tamiya-rc-cars/1278433253 Looks like a basher, a racer with mods and a shelf queen. If anyone is interested and I can help get to you let me know.
  5. I have a Rising Fighter I bought for my kids. It's had a couple of hop ups with my old CVAs and AMPRO rear shock mounts and transmission stabiliser but I have hunkered after a 4 bar front suspension. What can I say? I like tinkering. As much as the AMPRO kit is cool as this is my kids basher I really didn't want to move away from ABS plastic. That and not wanting to cry each time 22 bucks worth of AMPRO wishbone snapped in a big shunt! I also have a load of DT03 front suspension leftover from my upgrades to my Grasshopper3 DT03, and I saw some cool double wishbone mods on grasshoppers on YouTube which got me thinking...... First thing I needed was to make a plate to mount the DT03 central wishbone mount (DT03 part C2). I used some 3mm aluminium and the Rising Fighter parts as a template for holes. Hand made and a bit rough. Holes in the DT03 part are 20mm lateral and 21mm longitudinal. I drilled 4mm holes to give me some wiggle room then some 12mm m3 machine screws and nuts to secure I bought a pair of DT02/3 wishbone sprues Part No 10004254 on eBay for £6. Mount them reversed to clear everything. I used screw pins to mount them but 48.5mm shafts would also work. You need to open out the holes in the central mounting with a 3.1mm drill. They don't have a pivoting shaft on the DT03 so are a tight fit otherwise. I used the DT03 c-hubs (part B1) and uprights as I upgraded my DT03 to GPM metal c-hubs and blitzer uprights for truck wheels so I had them spare. The Rising Fighter uprights would also work but you need the c-hubs. I mounted the 64mm eye to eye CVA shocks in the outer position. For the top arms I used part 5 from the DT03 wishbone sprue Into the end of this I threaded a ball screw from the CVA shock kit I then lined up the part with the top of the chassis, backed up against the stiffening rib on the front suspension mount I used the hole in the part as a template for a 2.5mm drill to put a hole in the tub. I used m3 x 15 self tappers as they were spare but 12mm would work. I then drilled a second hole through part and tub and installed a second self tapper. The top arms and steering arms were all made using the DT02 turnbuckle set. I mistakenly bought this for my DT03 but the steering turnbuckles didn't fit. They are perfect here. All the longer steering arms and top arms can just as easily be made using M3 threaded bar and the tamiya ball ends and ball connectors. And finished. Really good geometry. No bump steer here Bit of fun with some spares really. If you add up the cost of parts all together I am not sure I makes sense but it works REALLY well. Maybe one for you GH2 ReRe buyers? Hope you like. Cheers!
  6. Bit of advice needed. Got a rising fighter for the kids which I put my rebuilt cvas on keeping the kit springs as it is so light. Despite having 3 hole pistons and one down to 30wt oil it still doesn't return well and the front and still bounces like mad under power. It's a funny little buggy but would like it to be a little less wayward. Do I go even lighter on the oil? If so how light? Or drill out the piston holes? Cheers!
  7. Bit of advice needed. Got a rising fighter for the kids which I put my rebuilt cvas on keeping the kit springs as it is so light. Despite having 3 hole pistons and one down to 30wt oil it still doesn't return well and the front and still bounces like mad under power. It's a funny little buggy but would like it to be a little less wayward. Do I go even lighter on the oil? If so how light? Or drill out the piston holes? Cheers!
  8. Let me begin by saying that I love the Super Hornet. I know some people don't care for the slightly gaudy decals in their neon glory but for me it represents a transition from the 80's to the 90's. I mean come on, it could have been neon pink and teal green. Would that have made you happy? I bought my sister a Super Hornet when it was brand new. Scrounging up old parts for a hornet in the 90's was not possible so when the chassis split, the Super Hornet was the way to go. She drove it all the time as a kid and even raced it in the beginners class a few times at a track in Corona, California. She had her box art shell which to this day is mint and her beetle runner body by Bolink as I recall. Here is the car today: i I can't seem to find a pic of the stock body but that's not the point. What was I talking about again? ....................................... Oh yeah! Super Hornet! Well I am sure everyone into the Hornet/Super Hornet knows about the prototype blunder on the Tamiya USA site: This is not just a Super Hornet with a different decal sheet. This body is completely different. First off, note the Hornet inspired slots at the base of the front window/cowl. Also, see the louvers at the rear of the cockpit? Even the sculpting of the front end is much sharper giving the impression that this was in fact the direct predecessor of the Hornet. In fact, the only but that looks like a Super Hornet is the rear wing which I always loved as it looked like the wings of a real Hornet. Wheels appear to be a shade different and the rear shock mount is totally different. Much smaller than the SH. Finally, the shocks. They look good in red I have to say! My plan is to take this and give a Super Hornet and a Rising Fighter the same treatment, making a Hornet 2 and a Hornet 3. Here is where we are so far. I know this should be in builds but I suck at build threads. I don't have time for a million pix. Sorry folks. I stared by taking a new Super Hornet shell and a new Rising fighter shell and basically ruining them. I chopped a massive hole on both of their cowls and 3D printed a panel to fill the hole with the trademark 6 slots that the Hornet had. They were super glued into place and then I used the super glue on the front mixed with saw dust and plastic shavings to fill any gaps. I don't like putty. Here is the SH: And the RF: A thick coat of primer: More sanding: And final primer coat: Then I printed me some louvers. I love louvers. They cannot be full length because: SH: Resistor is in the way. Even though I used it as decoration, I still want access. RF: Body is screwed into place there Next we need paint. I know what you are thinking, I am going to paint them black. That, my friends, would be the smart thing to do. The SH will be silver and the RF will be red. Basically, I don't want a mass of black cars. Plus, I like colors. So there we have it. The SH and my Grasshopper 2 are trading shocks. I am dying the yellow ones a dark orange to match the SH rims. The RF has a set of super Hornet shocks and my printed rear mount and rear rims. Here is the RF now. Well I will keep you posted for other updates as they slowly come.
  9. taffer

    FS Nib kits

    1x NIB re-re Thundershot superb condition 101bk esc inc but no wing £300 inc UK shipping 1x Rising Fighter superb condition no esc, £50 inc UK shipping 1x new built Rising Fighter gun metal paint scheme plus grey plastic wheels to match, built with steel pinion and new servo £70 pics in showroom but I can email extra on request
  10. Has anyone got any suggestions on how I can weather/dirt proof my sons Rising Fighter? He has a habit of driving it through puddles and other muck and I wanted to try and protect it as much as possible! Many Thanks I know I need to tidy up the wires as well!
  11. Hello everyone, I know I have been away lately but I have been busy with a lot of things to fill my life. I picked up a Rising Fighter for a little project I am working on. As I am enamored with the Hornet and its derivatives, how could I not get one. I looked over Wood5tocks Super Hornet II build and rather enjoyed it but much like him, the stance of the rear is kind of weird. I will be keeping the RF’s rear floating axle mounts as I would like to keep it as much RF as I can but I cannot get my head around the rear shock mounts. Obviously as you look at the RF, it is no doubt that the trans was in no way designed for it. The Mad Fighter and Mad Bull had a nearly horizontal rear shock which used the rotation of the transmission as the suspension where the RF uses the near vertical movement. Since my plan is to go down the Hornet/Super Hornet route with the car, I will be designing a “super hornet-esque” rear shock mount as well as longer rear shocks. May compromise the functionality of the rear end but improve the looks. I have a plan for functionality but for the time being, I will focus on the rear shock mounts first. Here is the car as it arrived. Fully ball raced and happily used. For $40 shipped, it was a bargain. Plus, I don't like new cars, they make me not want to use them for fear of scratching the chassis. The stock rear uses an 82mm shock attached to the trans. For usability, I think it is the best of the solid axle cars Tamiya has ever made. I am not used to this transmission but it seems to be a well built unit: This photo is not related but how did this happen? I have seen it on my Grasshopper II and my Super Hornet as well. Glad I bought several new chassis years ago. The cars ride height is way to high at the rear so I will lower it to give it a lower look. I will retain the RF’s floating axle stays as I mentioned earlier though I know that will make it a lot faster to drop the car to a more attractive stance. So for those not familiar with the Super Hornet rear end, here is a shot of mine (pre resto) and SuperFly with the re-engineered rear end that I designed: And a closeup of SuperFly: The rear end design did create a noticable increase in stability under load but not a massive difference. We are working with a torquing solid rear axle after all. I have designed large prototype plates here so that I can vary the shock placement for both appearance as well as aesthetics. Once I find the correct placement I will redesign it and run some load tests on it. What you cannot tell is that the lower bore (the large one) that the axle shaft goes through is tapered to match the axle tube. The upper hole is where the screw mounts it to the transmission. I will also have a link between them like the Super Hornet. The thickness of these for prototype purposes is 0.5mm. This makes them cost about $2 to print them here at the office. I need to print them today and then test fit them. This will be fun! Keep you posted and I would love some comments and ideas.
  12. With the availability of fixed axle buggies not in question at the moment (Hornet, Grasshopper, Mad Fighter, Mad Bull and Rising Fighter in good supply) Is the Rising Fighter that launched in 2008, the last new fixed axle release buggy? Do you think there will ever be another? A Rising Fighter 2 or similar (I'm not counting other possible rere's like Grasshopper 2 or Super Hornet)? Although the design might dictate that it should maybe stop new models, its still officially the cheapest(?) tamiya model and I still like it, even with its inherent flaws! (Just obtained another Rising Fighter!)
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