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Found 22 results

  1. Thought I'd share my TLT based crawler. I should have started a build thread in the builds section, but I got a little ahead of myself. So it's almost done, I'll post any changes going forward. This is my last set of TLT axles, well modified from my crawler. I've had these for a long time, and they have held up incredibly well. The cases are a little beat up, but they still have a lot of miles left in them! I cut a chassis out of 2.5mm 6061 (lower chassis) Front axle was set up with a 3-link and panhard set-up. Originally, I started with a Tamiya Mini X-Acto motor and a double GRU connected to the t-case with a M06 dogbone, though I found it to be a little under geared. Once I had everything sorted, I sprayed the chassis flat black and made a trans mount out of 6mm aluminum. Very solid, no flex here. Motor is low and forward, right where it should be Chassis was designed for a Tamiya LC40 body. I love these bodies, I've got 4 of them in use currently. Decalling them is an exercise in patience but I enjoy it immensely! I had a few issues with the white, it unfortunately was too thin in spots and the backing black bled through. (: Painting is not my strong suit! I decided to power through and used some left over Rough Rider/Buggy Champ decals as kind of a modern take on the Rough Rider theme.. I think it came out pretty good! Other than the questionable paint of course. Compared to my CFX, it has a bit more aggressive stance. I like it... And out on my test course... The tires are not quite the best since they are quite old, but I tried a few other combos, and just thought these looked spot on. I have made a bit of a change to the drivetrain since taking the pics, it's much more trail friendly now. I'm hoping she'll get her first trail run this weekend if the weather holds.
  2. I just finished restoring my 1984 Grasshopper, my first RC car, and while I was in the middle of it, I came across a Rough Rider on Ebay with the original box and Acoms radio. This was the first real RC car I saw as a kid, but I could only save enough to get the Grasshopper. Thirty plus years later, I could afford it so I paid more than anyone else in the world was willing to pay (that's how Ebay works, right?). When I received it I checked over the condition to see what needed to be done. Surprisingly, it's all there and original with the exception of what appears to be a homemade rear cage. Tires are not cracked or excessively worn, but the rears are flat-spotted. Body has cracks at rear corners and nose and the roof is shot. Radio box has a crack at the front bolt, but otherwise is good. The previous owner extended the wires of the battery and on/off switch to the rear of the buggy to allow charging and turning it on/off without taking off the body. I'll have to return that to normal. Overall, it appears to have little use and I'm happy with it for what I paid. Now, I'm thinking about what I want to do to it before starting the tear down. I already have a re-release rear cage and roof. I'm considering just replacing the roof and cage and cleaning everything else, leaving the body with the yellow paint. While it's got some cracks, it has character. My other choice is to strip the body, fix the cracks and do the blue box art scheme. I already have reproduction decals on the way. What do you think?
  3. Hello, I'm new here (I guess you knew that). Very quick intro... I used to use remote control cars approx. 30 years ago (just for fun, not competition), I started off with a Tamiya Sand Scorcher and later also bought a Tamiya Boomerang (1986 ish). My Mum has just moved house and both cars (and kits) have turned up again, much to the excitement of myself and even more so my 6 year old son. Well, all the Boomerang needed was a new battery and we were away but now we need/want a second car (as you all know) to more than double the fun ! For that reason (and to help fund the second car) I've decide that maybe the Sand Scorcher would be better off in the hands of somebody more clued-up and who could appreciate it more than me and my son will (he'll just smash it up I'm sure), So I'm looking to sell it but really not sure where to price it at and also I'm writing this during my (late) lunch break and just realised I don't have any pictures to upload to make this make more sense, sorry but I will post picture later this evening.
  4. Couple of auctions here for some of these nice little replicas made by San-s about a decade ago. Boxed opened (and included), but model unbuilt and mint – as are the cute little leaflets. Buggy champ Frog
  5. Hi all, Ive decided I cannot put if off any longer, I need a SRB in my life... so, in your opinion which would make the better runner - re re Buggy Champ or Fighting Buggy? Both seem to have their pros and cons, having great difficulty in trying to make up my mind, I've watched countless videos! Looking to use on the beach and in the dunes and before any one say's....; no sadly I cannot afford to get both Cheers
  6. Hi, I am looking for: Tamiya RC Buggy Champ / Rough Rider NIB 58441 Will be built so box and blister condition not important. I am in the UK.
  7. I've got a few new old stock brass 20t original pinions for SRB's Champ etc £7 each inc P+P in UK PP gift
  8. I took the rough rider out to the beach with me over the weekend. We built a jump so it could catch some air. I love roosting in the sand. The 17turn motor makes it hook up.
  9. While digging through the RC junk pile, I found an old CRP catalog... DL it here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/8ehh73fs3sjwczq/Team%20CRP%20-%201987%20Catalog.pdf?dl=0 Thanks, Terry
  10. Lots of unused CRP, Thorp and JG part for the Tamiya SRB-chassis (and some other models) for sale. Most parts are without the original packaging, but were never installed and are basically in "as new" condition. Some scuff marks and similar "shelf wear" possible due to high age. Will of course send pics on request so you know the exact condition of what you get! - Aluminum roll-cages - Aluminum rear cages - Aluminum roof and front rollbar for single seater buggy bodies (ie. Rough Rider). (Requires the use of aluminum roll-cage) - Aluminum nerf bars for stock SRB chassis. - Aluminum nerf bars for SRB's with butterfly chassis - Coilovers for original shocks - Coilovers for red 1/8 Kyosho shocks - Rebuild kits for original dampers - Front stabilizers for original SRB front suspension - Front stabilizers for widened SRB front suspension - Rear stabilizers for CRP roll Cage. - Rear damper brackets for mounting 1/8 dampers on CRP roll cage - Extensions for front damper tower - Butterfly chassises - Chassis lowering plates - Ball diffs - Gold anodized aluminum outer wheels for Holiday Buggy tires - Silver anodized aluminum outer wheels for Holiday Buggy tires - Steering kits - Servo mounts - Wide and hardened tubes for front suspension (Gold anodized, but possibly also some silver anodized) - Hardened tubes for stock front suspension (Gold anodized) - Hardened steel rear wheel shafts with aluminum hubs for mounting Holiday Buggy wheels - Kydex bumpers for wider front suspension - Alternative Ratio 48dp spur gears with hubs. - And more. Send me a PM if interested in any of the listed items or if you're searching for CRP, Thorp or JG parts not listed. (don't have much of anything else than parts for the SRB-chassis though!)
  11. I have found an original SRB! It was found dismantled in a shed at an estate sale, looks to be about 90% complete in terms of parts. The odd thing is that the gearbox seems to have some sort of glue sealing it, not much so opening it shouldn't be a difficult task. Would make a fantastic parts car or candidate for restoration. I found the electronics in a separate box, but unfortunately the wires seem to have been clipped. Unfortunate, but they are included if you would like to re-solder or rewire them. Bearings are also included for those that want to make this a running model. As expected the gearbox will need to be shimmed since it has clearly been sitting for a while. I have attached some pictures, and the rear dampeners and the pinion are included, they are just hidden in the chassis tub. Here are the image links: http://postimg.org/image/47u1ap9yv/ http://postimg.org/image/8i8p6af1z/ http://postimg.org/image/5bj7js0xj/ http://postimg.org/image/ak96kjd13/ Willing to let it go for 65$ plus shipping or trade for re-re kits or kyosho mini z optima, show us what you have to offer. The buyer will be responsible for the cost of shipping. I am located in the USA so shipping within the states shouldn't be to much since in this dismantled state it should fit in a large flat rate box. I always ship with a tracking number if possible. I am willing to ship the item out of country/over seas for my UK friends but the buyer will still be responsible for shipping costs. If a trade is made, we will each pay for the shipping of our own piece and we will provide tracking numbers. Otherwise, payments are to be made via paypal only. So let me know what you guys think, at this time not willing to part it out, if nothing happens here I'll just hold on to her.
  12. I have most parts required to assemble roughly 120 SRB-chassises from original release used parts. (Typical fragile/quick wearing parts of course in (much) smaller quantities). From early to late production SRB's, including Super Champ. All defective parts have of course been discarded. Consider selling some parts as I have realized that life is too short to ever need them all. Send me a PM if interested in specific parts. Will send photos.
  13. While my vintage buggy still has all the standard wheels and rubber, i wanted to take advantage of commonly available alternatives so i could put the original stuff away. The rear is simple if you have the re-re axles as they already have a pin layout allowing you to add a 12mm Hex adapter and fit most 2.2 wheels of your choice. However I was still looking at the best options for adding 2.2 wheels and tyres to the front of my Rough Rider, and wanted to share my journey and solution. The twin challenges were getting rims that were bearing enabled, and extending the axle out enough so the new rim didn't interfere with the steering upright. I found some JConcepts rims for the front that are meant for Team associated models (they take an imperial bearing but a 5x9x3 with a small shim or loctite still works fine), but they still needed to be spaced out far enough that there were too few threads for the nut. So I needed an axle extender. I could have ordered the CRP extenders but with the Sth pacific peso heading south daily, and me being too impatient to wait for up to 30 day delivery, I looked around for some alternative options. I usually start this kind of DIY bodge with the thought of "what can I repurpose" rather than starting from scratch. So I looked at the problem from 2 directions was there something with an M4 thread to screw onto the existing axle that had an OD close to 5mm, or was there something with a 5mm OD to match the axle OD, that could be tapped for an m4 thread. In the end I tried both methods. Option 1 - M4 threaded inserts I found threaded inserts (rivnuts) with M4 threads and a 6mm OD at a local hardware store The rivnuts threaded on to the existing front axle just fine, but obviously the outer diameter was too big to allow my bearings to fit. Not having access to a Lathe, I was wondering how to manage this when it struck me that using a spare rear axle as a holder, I could put the whole lot in a drill, and with gentle pressure use a file to take the 0.8mm I needed off the OD. This turned out to be easier than expected; This worked out fine, but with a largish overhang from the part not reduced which I would take up with a washer and spacer. Option 2 - 5mm OD spacers Coincidentally I found a second option in an electronics store in the form of 5mm steel "stand-off" spacers. These hold a circuit board off another, and were hollow with a 5mm OD, so then needed an M4 thread in them. While I've never used a tap to cut a thread, I did have a set, so figured since they were so cheap, I could probably afford to mess around some. In the end it was again pretty straightforward and seemed to have worked fine. I threaded them full length so I could use an M4 bolt to hold a washer and spacer at the other end. The advantage of this method is that I can easily cut the extension to size, which is not as easy with the rivnuts due to their shape. At the moment I have it at a length that means I add a small spacer and washer to hold the bearing in. I'm waiting until I get the slightly larger bearings before I cut it down to exact size, but have loctited them to the axle so they don't unwind on reversing. The total cost of the rivnut method was ~A$5 (or 25c a piece if you made all 20 into extenders), and the standoff method was a little higher at ~62c a piece. This compares to about A$19 if ordered off ebay, plus i got to install and use them about 1 hour after i started the project.. Here's the end result on my buggy. Hopefully this helps someone else.
  14. Hi all, I have just rekindled my RC passion after rebuilding my Vintage Rough Rider, and as i had relied on this site for the knowledge i no longer had, i wanted to share what i had done, and hopefully contribute to the body of wisdom on the site. My Rough Rider was bought as a present for my birthday in 1980, and after i left home for Uni it stayed in its box for the next 30 plus years. So i am probably one of the lucky ones in that i still have my 1st and only Tamiya. I remember the original build, the painting and anticipation of getting to run it first time, only to send it careening backward into a wall and smashing up the rear cage. At the time i lived in Asia, then moved to provincial NZ with my parents before we returned to Australia, so there was a period where i couldn't access any spares or even knowledge (pre-web for you kiddies in the front row). This only dawned on me when i wondered why i hadn't replaced some items, or left some relatively simple things unfixed. The spur to get it out from its cupboard location was i had decided it would be a father /son resto project and on my sons birthday we carefully took it down, open the box, unwrapped the tissue paper, and started to assemble it so we could take an inventory of the needed parts. In the waiting period, my Sons generous Auntie decided she wanted to make a splash and offered him the chance to forego future presents for a few years, in return for a big gift now. I now think its a big win:win as he ended up with a tough-as-nails Traxxas Telluride, and i ended up with a new project (and a more sympathetic driving style) and we still get a shared interest. I wanted to share the unboxing and in another post, will detail the mods I've now made to improve stability, drive-ability and performance. I've linked to the images on Flickr so hopefully they display ok. Original box kept everything together and protected I still had the original Tx also All wrapped up, i'd had the smarts to remove the tyres so they didn't flatspot. Original battery can be seen, plus my box of spares and tools. The chassis was ok but grimy, and all the broken parts i couldn't afford to repair or didn't know how to fix were still broken. I believe this was a "mod" to keep the balls from popping out of the arm sockets A home made servo saver horn after i couldn't replace it locally at the time. The AA batteries are new, but all other electrics are 1980's new! Assembled and in its faded glory I was waiting on a new battery assuming the old NiCad was stuffed, when i stumbled on a charger with the Tamiya connector. On a whim i connected the battery and let it charge for about 6 hours and was blown away that when connected the whole system ran fine (slow, but fine). That gave me the confidence to move forward with a Brushless conversion knowing that the servos had survived the ages, the Tx/Rx still worked ok, and the rest of the electrics werent corroded beyond repair. This project has always been about getting a vintage much loved buggy into a state where it didn't embarrass itself and would let me share quality time with my son. That's why you won't see any detail about repairing the body shell, or getting period correct tyres or wheels. But......recognising the historical value many attach to the Rough Rider, all mods i have planned or have already been done are non-destructive with the aim that it can be returned to its factory self by the next person. Any pieces i removed or were damaged, have just gone into the box for the next owner (although there are no plans for a sale while she's a healthy runner !! ). Cheers and thanks for YOUR help in getting it back to a fit state. RMR110 PS i had a chance to get it onto the beach soon after i got a new battery Motor and tyres, and uploaded it to YouTube. Unfortunately while this was the best footage, it was also when i had removed the body shell and in my haste to hit the beach before we lost the light, i didn't put it back on, so she's in stealth mode.
  15. TWINSET

    SOLD: Vintage SRB Radio Box

    £35 plus postage Good used condition, camlocks wellnuts and switch cover included Two small stress marks near top receiver box screws 10mm diameter 'melt' in bottom near front wellnut but otherwise sound. Camlock lugs all present and un-cracked Rear wellnut hole intact although front wellnut is compressed so will need to be cut out or used as is (perfectly useable, just not removeable) Payment by paypal gift or charges covered please (international, gift only)
  16. As much as it annoys me when I read a post that starts with "Testing the water with this one, not sure if I want to sell it"... that's what I'm doing here. I'm listening to interest and good offers out there. I could do with raising cash to fund other purchases I want to make. This is the rarest SRB hop there is, in my opinion, and it has never been mounted to a chassis. Converts the SRB chassis into 4WD. Link to pics in my showroom http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=124947&sid=13490 Make me an offer Thanks
  17. Meakz1973

    Selling a bunch of stuff

    Hello TC'ers, See my traderoom for vintage tamiya stuff I'm clearing out. Most is mint or NIP I have more parts to photo and list. Sand Rover Monster Beetle Toyota Hilux - SOLD CRP parts RC Lohas parts - SOLD +more http://www.tamiyaclub.com/trades.asp?id=13490
  18. While recently playing with my Buggy Champ my rear tire came off in a vacant dirt field. Obviously the wheel nut wasn't tightened enough, but I discovered the small steel pin that goes through the rear shaft and fits inside the back of the wheel hub fell out, too, followed by the wheel hub. As a kid I didn't remember this happening to my Rough Rider, so I pulled it out and took a look at it and sure enough the wheel hub is permanently attached to the rear shaft. I'm curious... Why would Tamiya make this particular design change? To me, it would seem the old design is the better one for two reasons. 1) The hub and shaft/axle are one piece with no small parts to lose. Also, no extra loose play from the u-joint to the wheel. 2) With it being one piece, you're able to tighten the wheel nut much more, preventing the nut from loosening. On the new design, the nut can only tighten to a point before the wheel will no longer turn. So again, why this design change? I can't imagine it was to save money. -- Jeff
  19. All, in my quest to get the original sponsor decals for my original Avante restauration, i am exploring all options. In light of that, i am looking for the correct dimensions of the "Bel Ray" blue/white sponsor decal. Apart from the Avante, i have seen it on the Rough Rider, Super Champ, Sand Rover and Frog. If you own one of these models, could you please measure the size (Width, Height) of the "Bel Ray" decal,preferably in millimeters and post it in this thread so i can narrow down my search? Many thanks, Dominique
  20. VINTAGE HILUX FAN

    Original sand scorcher baja bug FOR SALE

    VINTAGE SAND SCORCHER I am just clearing down as I now have 4 scorchers. I spent many hours restoring this scorcher and then enjoyed thrashing it around on the beach. The bug is all original but is fitted with ballrace bearings which give less friction for longer run times and better performance. I fitted a Tamiya TEU-101BK esc to give better control and more power over the original MSC. The shell is also from a 2010 sand scorcher re-release. It is missing 4 cam locks but I used two bolts with body pins as it was a lot easier than the 4 awkward cam locks. The body has been painted in automotive paints, it isn't a shelf queen standard paint job but it looks awesome flicking up sand. The nosecone has had the number plate reccess filled to give a more racey look. Adding to which it has no glass in the body and number boards in the rear windows to set this bug out from the crowd. The decals are repro and not great quality, a few are slitghtly peeling but that doesn't matter, I built this bug to be enjoyed rather than just looked at. The tyres are original and still in good condition but the fronts are a bit "dry". The outer wheel covers are the originals which have been freshened up with a white aerosol. Sand scorchers are known for there scale replica VW beetle style suspension, however this means that on any surfaces other than sand they have a tendancy to roll even a slow speeds. Therefore, I fitted this bug with rear shocks from a TL-01 touring car which don't allow the rear arms to drop out at a ridiculous angle which makes them much easier to drive anywhere. There is no front shocks fitted to this scorcher. This does not affect the handling at all as the originals leaked so much they were only there for looks. No radio gear is included. You will need, radio gear, battery and front shocks (if you want to have them) to run this bug! Also, included is a driver which still needs finishing. The buyer of this bug will be very, veru happy. This would suit any tamiya collector. I would like £190 ono for this scorcher. UK postage is £12 and will be sent out 1st class recorded. Please PM me if interested.
  21. VINTAGE HILUX FAN

    Salt water and SRB's any problems?

    Hi everybody, After watching some videos and looking at loads of great pictures of SRB's splashing about in salt water I was wondering if this causes any problems. It looks spectacular but I don't want to wreck the car doing it. Do you use plastic or brass bushings rather than bearings so they don't rust? Will the torsion bars seize up? Does it have to be a full strip and rebuild after each run? What do you use to clean them off? Any information and tips on what I can do to prevent any problems would be much appreciated. Thanks Marcus