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Over the holidays I built up my BT-01 Supra in the Front Motor Rear Wheel Drive config. I neglected to take any WIP photos, but it was a pretty simple build thanks to Tamiya's great instructions. The body stickers have two sets for the early and late type of the supra JZA80, with very different looking headlights. I went with PS-22, racing green, backed in PS-12 silver. I am very satisfied with the paint job but you gotta take your time with the front bumper area and go with thin coats. It's a bit difficult to get in all those nooks and crannies. I use some vinyl around the body post holes to prevent scratches. One of the major upgrades I did for this chassis is swapping to all hex machine screw hardware. It took >60 m3*10mm screws and a handful of m3*8mm and m3*12mm screws. I used a cutting tap from my LHS. Tapping all the screw holes into the hard but brittle PC-ABS plastic meant I could reuse those threads again and again without issue. I want this chassis to drive for many many years. I swapped out the stock 70T spur for the TT-02 68T high speed spur. If you want to use any other spur with the BT-01 I highly recommend it, just know that you have to swap the regular button head screws in the motor mount, holding on a side bracket, for countersunk screws so the spur mount clears them. I used an xacto knife at an angle to carve out the counter sinking. Just keep checking with the screw to see if it is flush before continuing to carve. I used the MB-01 bearing set from Tamiya. They're all shielded bearings, but for an on-road car, they should be fine. I also equipped the TT-02 oil filled shock set. The friction shocks it came with are all right, but since the step screws needed for them are self tappers, they had to be swapped out. Oil shocks definitely helped in the uneven parking lot. One thing to note when using the TT-02 set is that it comes with 6 ball studs that work fine, and two balls with threaded centers and long grub screws to mount them in, which are a slightly shorter length. You'll need 1mm of shims or additional ball studs on each of those to line the shocks up perfectly. Other than that, I mounted my Dynamite 20T 540 motor I used in my DT-03 last summer, and some budget ebay tires by Acekeeps since I didn't want to wear the stock ones out. On my asphalt driveway, these tires gripped up very well. I drove on a circuit like this: {------------) \ | } | / | {_______) Just 5 waterbottles used as pylons for this track. Even with these cheapo tires, since they come with foams and are VERY soft, they grip super well. I haven't setup any laptiming for this yet, but I figured out laptrax and got that to work today, so expect to see this rig in Postal Racing this month. The BT-01 feels very well balanced. It requires very little braking to transfer enough weight onto the front tires to make sharp turns. I was able to keep it pinned at 80% through the straight only letting off to 60% for the corners. It felt really nice carving up the track. The ~60/40 weight split front to rear is very noticeable. The front end has SOOOOOO much authority once you load it up that I swear I could hear the rear end slip out a little when I was cornering really quickly. Now, for why I put this post into the racing section! I took both this BT-01 and my 3racing M4 M-TC with a Lotus Europa shell down to my local carpet track for a race day. Naturally, the high grip black carpet made for a pleasant ride. However, neither chassis fit into any class so little racing got done with them. I did fit a transponder though and had a lot of fun getting my lap times down. The BT-01 started the day feeling very floaty. It turns out the soft tires I went with were shifting side to side under the rims. I purchased a set of USGT belted tires and went back to the track. The much firmer tires made the car feel more planted on the track. The raised battery above the driveline did make it feel a bit top heavy, and it was prone to traction rolling on this high grip surface. I managed to get my laptimes down to a flat 15.0 seconds, only 0.8 secs off the 25.5T TC class. Now for the 3Racing M4, a belt-driven 4wd mini sized TC. It can be 210mm or 225mm, short and medium M-chassis sized. I had it setup in 225mm with a torque tuned motor for my Lotus Europa Special shell which garnered many glances from the crowd of competitive racers. It has a spool up front, an oil diff in the rear, and a boatload of toe in up front with the stock setup. That toe in helps with high speed cornering, letting me get down to a 15.4 second lap. I ended up staying on throttle for most of the course, only letting off very slightly. It has the motor mounted to the rear and handles kinda like an MR chassis. Settling down the rear end at low speed was a challenge, but the track was in more of a high speed layout anyway. Racing is fun, but I don't really like strict classes, especially stock motors. My local offroad track opens back up in April, so expect to see some race reports as I challenge 2wd mod with my DT-03 once again!

So I'm new here, but not new to RC or Tamiya. I have only just joined Tamiya Club after lurking for years. And salivating over the fastest Tamiya list and all the build threads and information on here. I'd like to contribute knowledge and more builds for the site. I come from a long background of auto mechanics and electronic engineering. More of a Jack-of-all-trades, but specifically engineering, both mechanical and electronic, also fabrication and Physics. That's the most relevant experience in the RC hobby, so I'll stop with the background there, and if there is anything you want to know, feel free to ask in the thread or shoot me a PM. Onto the juicy bits. This build is almost complete, but being I only just joined the forum, I'll drip feed the pics and info starting at the beginning. As most of you already know how the TT02 is assembled, I'll leave most of the base assembly out of here and highlight certain things along the way. After previously building a TT02R, and wasting glorious money on it (not as crazy as some), then a budget TT02 build setup for rally, I decided to build a RWD TT02 chassis, mainly for drift, but also for hooning around from time to time. I built the TT02 knowing full well that there are way better choices for out of the box drifting out there. And sure I can toss a Tamiya body on it to make them look better. But what can I say, I absolutely love Tamiya, and I like a good challenge. Now that that is out of the way, Lets start at the beginning. I've been eyeing the 911 Carrera RSR body since buying my TT02R about a year ago. And I absolutely love building things from scratch and adding my own little twists to them. But I figured it'd be fun to build a TT02 that's as challenging to drive fast as a real Porsche from the same era, with way too much power LOL. I haven't driven a Porsche, or MR or RR in real life. Though I do drive an 89 Camaro and Gran Turismo nailed the handling on the Camaro. What I would do in game would translate to what the car would do in real life, so it's strikingly close. I've always joked that I learned how to drive by playing all the GT's profusely growing up and even now. So I know that most of the Porsches are a handful to drive, and that line is easy to cross. If you've driven a Porsche hard, you know exactly what line I mean. So why not scale it down and make it EVEN more difficult? Like I said, I like a challenge. So I bought the TT02 1992 Audi V8 kit, and the 1973 Carrera RSR body set. That's the rally build next to it on the work bench. The wonderful feeling of having a new kit in front of you and the giddy feeling you get when the hop-ups start arriving! 1992 Audi V8 TT02 kit - 58699A (Comes with THW 1060 Brushed ESC instead of TBLE-04S) 1973 Porsche Carrera RSR Body Set - 51543 Winter Evening TT02 bearing kit - Ebay Square TT02 Drift Steering - STD-217D Tamiya Mini CVA Shocks - 54753 (Came with the TT02R) Tamiya Adjustable Upper Arm Set - 54874 Tamiya Aluminum Motor Plate - 54558 (came in my TT02R kit) Tamiya Universal TG10 shafts - 54394 (Bought for the TT02R) Tamiya Universal Cup Joints - 54477 Tamiya Low Friction Suspension Balls - 54559 Tamiya TBLE-04S ESC - 45069 (Looking to replace or use a BEC) Ebay Sensored Brushless 13.5T Surpass Hobbies 16KG Servo - S1600BL 5mm Bullets for the motor wires Couple sensor cables of various lengths FGr4 V2 Rx for FlySky Noble NB4 TX - FGr4 SkyRC Gyro - GC301 Power Hobbies Blue 25T Servo Horn Chronologically this is my third TT02 build. The TT02R was first, and the budget rally build was second. So two more TT02 build threads to come. -RC Perspective

Which budget shocks or dampers would you recommend for a rear wheel drive buggy such as a Tamiya DT-03, Kyosho Dirt Master, etc? I used to love 3Racing stuff including their shocks, but it has been years since I used any of it. There are also a bunch of new brands that have popped up as well in the last few years. Yeah Racing seems to get decent feedback. I'm open to all feedback on inexpensive shocks. Definitely don't want anything that leaks. Thank you!

Evening Some of you may remember my FF01 speed run car I've been slowly building. It's not quite finished although the finish line is certainly in sight now, so I thought it was about time I started my next project which I've had in mind for a while. For the last couple of years I've had an old TA01 Chassis kicking around. I've never used it but it's always sat on my desk in the hope I might build it into something one day. Well, that Chassis still isn't being used but it provided the inspiration for this build. It all started off with me spotting a brand new TA01/02 FRP Chassis kit on eBay a few weeks ago. I stuck it in my watch list expecting it to get snapped up before I had the money to buy it myself. Surprisingly as pay day came around three weeks later it was still sitting there. So I bought it, and plenty of other bits to go with it. Anyway, today those bits arrived Not one to stand on ceremony I got straight on with building the chassis. Now I've dismantled plenty of TA01 and TA02 chassis' to be able to do it with my eyes shut, however despite my FF01 being FRP the chassis came pre-assembled so I've never actually built one. After staring at the parts tree and pile of screws for a while I decided to get the FF01 down to use as a reference for where it all went. That worked and before I knew it I was underway You'll notice the FF01 doing a bit of life modelling in the background. A very useful reference. I figured as I'd got this far (reasonably quickly) I might as well attach the gearbox casings as well. Im still waiting for a rear diff to arrive so I could only attach the main rear housing, however because I'm running this as RWD I carried out getting the empty front casing screwed together and onto the chassis along with the FRP top deck I then had to figure out how the carbon front body mount bracket went together and onto the chassis. It took a bit of googling to find a decent picture but I think I got it right haha! I'm still waiting for plenty of other bits to arrive but I'm happy with the start I made this evening For the body I decided on the Mercedes 190E from the TT01E kit. After lots of searching I managed to find someone selling the body, sticker set and wheels but after adding it all up with shipping it was coming to nearly £70!! I did a bit of googling and found Tower Hobbies were selling the whole kit for £93 delivered! So I bought the whole kit! Ive taken out the body, stickers, wheels and tyre's and I'll advertise the chassis kit on eBay as I've got no interest in the TT01. Thats about it so far. Not bad for the first night

Hey! Not many here may be into drifting, but since I my my old RC Drift forum obviously broke down the day I wanted to upload this, here we go. This car started out life as a run-of-the-mill TA-05. I purchased it several years ago, with the idea of converting it to CS. (Making the rear wheels turn faster, recreating a RWD car that requires you to countersteer constantly, instead of steering into a corner, with a 4WD car.) Long story short, it was one hacked together dumpster fire of a chassis and never saw action. Then RWD came around, and I decided to go for it. And once again, I couldn't get something sensible out of it, and it sat on my shelf, unfinished. Last year, I brought it back from project badword, and ordered a bunch of shiny aluminum parts. I used my newfound kwonledge to design custom chassis plates, which I had lasercut by a local company, and created this bespoke car. It took some tinkering to get it to it's current state, which I finally deem presentable. The transparent blue Special edition parts are my main reason for not going with another conversion kit. Combined with blue alloy and pink hardware it makes for a really unique eyecatcher. The cut-out logo is inspired by the fijon TA-05 Kit, which was one of the first conversion kits I looked into, and another reason why I couldn't settle for anything else. If you wonder what "Rubik's Cube!" is supposed to mean, I made it up as a team name, when my brother was still into RC. I love old school japanese team names, like Magician or Mind Control, that have no obvious relation to cars. And while listening to "Abracadabra" under the shower, I had the idea for "Rubik's Cube!". It's retro, a toy, a mystery, and spells out RC when abbreviated. Bingo. The battery is raised for increased weight shift(It can also be mounted in the stock position), and the steering now uses Eagle racing TA-05 VDF parts with stock TA-05 mounting points. Therefore, the front bulkhead had to be replaced with this mashup of parts, that allows the steering arms to move inside of it. The rear suspension has been replaced with EA Streetjam R31 style TA-05 parts. Also, there's no droop limit and the TRF dampers have been bored up to 1.5mm holes. 13,5T Hobbywing JuStock brushless combo Futaba 9450 servo Sanwa MX-V transmitter and receiver SkyRC gyro

Hi everyone, I'm selling all the parts that I used to make my Tamiya M05 rear wheel drive (with onboard suspension) conversion. It will include the back half of the M05 Chassis which is where where the modifications are. I will also assist in explaining how it goes together for anyone interested. You will require a standard M05 for this conversion. Thanks, Sam