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Just wanted to make a thread where members can collaborate and compare their own motor speed test data. Due to the marketing BS and the unknown performance specs of many electric motors in our hobby, I feel it would be pretty useful to have a space where we discuss and record our findings while making it a little bit easier for others to find the answer of... "How fast does this thing spin?" Experimental and modified stuff is welcome too. Here is my first test, with four mild hot 540 size motors. Over the years I have bought and acquired some mild performance motors. Some of these 19 and 17 turn motors back then were a decent upgrade sometimes, which was apparent from the tire buning punch they packed, but still not to powerful to be insane. Ok, enough of the chit chat, here are the numbers. (Numbers have been rounded off and measured at 7.2 volts.) Reedy Radon 17t: 24,200 RPM. Booo! Team Associated list the RPM at 25,000 - 30,000, but does not say at what voltage. Venom Fireball 19t x2: 22,900 RPM. Advanced the timing another 3° and got 24,300 RPM, then cranked it another 4° and the RPM increased to 25,100. Team Orion Method SV2 17x2: 26,100. Well... almost, 10 RPM short, but maybe if I loosen the screws and wiggle the endbell I can get 10 more. Kyosho Atomic Force 17x2: 22,500 RPM, but the timing may have been a degree or two past zero. Cranked 8° more and got a good improvement, reving to 25,500 RPM, another 5° and got 28,700 RPM. Some final notes: The most disappointing motor of this bunch was the Reedy Radon 30,000 RPM. Not only does it under perform, but it runs terribly hot, and it's not just mine. Years ago when I worked at a hobby store, we have sold some of these motors to customers and the complaint was that they run too hot. Lower gearing did fix the issue a bit, but then the car had a slower top speed. The lack of good ventilation on the can was the clear issue, so on mine I cut two vent holes on it. The Team Orion Method SV2 17t motor performed pretty close to it's claimed RPM spec of 26,104 RPM at 7.2V. It probably needs a cleaning and maybe it might gain another 14 RPM to hit the rated number, but really it's pretty good that it's that close and proves that my homemade RPM test setup works well enough. On the two motors I advanced the timing on, I will dial them back as I don't want to push them too much. They should be able to put out good speed at more conservative timing without cooking themselves. Also, I want these motors to last, 3 out of the 4 are not made anymore, with the Reedy Radon being the only one left in production.

I Always wanted one of these and I was on the fence of keeping it in the box or build it. Well as you can see wich one I chose. Video's of it running coming soon!

So before I start my final blitzer project I think its time I finally finish the chrome edition blitzer project but im undecided wich sports tuned would look better. This will be more a shelf queen so I don't want to put anything too crazy in it. Wich one would you choose?🤔

So before I start my final blitzer project I think its time I finally finish the chrome edition blitzer project but im undecided wich sports tuned would look better. This will be more a shelf queen so I don't want to put anything too crazy in it. Wich one would you choose?🤔

Hi Guys, i seem to have a problem, i have a 1986 Boomerang [completely original] that i bought back to life recently, it had been stored away at my Mums house for maybe 20+ years, all i did was buy a new battery (4400Nmh Overlander) and had about 2-3hrs of trouble free fun, then the motor blew, ok i thought just replace it and try again, i bought and fitted a Tamiya 540 Silver Can, it lasted a couple of hours tops and also blew, at this point i did think maybe i should try a different type of motor but it was suggested that maybe id picked up an object [maybe a small stone off my driveway] and it had caused the problem so rather than trying a different type of motor maybe just try another standard silver can [less than £10 so why not], well this time it didnt last an hour and i noticed smoke coming firstly from the MSC so i quickly disconnected the battery, i picked up the car and noticed that if i put the car in slow speed position no problems [forward or reverse] but when i put the car in to medium speed the smoke now started coming from the ceramic resistor [?] and when i went full speed the smoke started coming from the motor, i quickly found that this motor was now also blown. So obviously theres something wrong elsewhere, i pulled the MSC to pieces and could see nothing obvious [not even any evidence of burning but decided to upgrade to an ESC, oh and a third new standard tamiya silver can. Great the car seemed better than it ever has before, also upgraded to a steering wheel type transmitter too, mainly because the ESC didnt seem to be working right with the old stick controller [brake not working as supposed to], well ive run the car now 4 times [so not quite 2 hours} and the motors gone again ! No smoke this time, not even much of a burning smell but no power from the motor to turn the wheels. Ive tried 3 different batteries and ive turned the wheels by hand to seem if anything is tight, im not really sure how free they should feel but seem ok really. Where is my problem coming from ? It has to be from within the gearbox doesnt it ? theres been no reason to look in there since i built it back in 1986 and i dont really want to have to now but i guess if you guys are in agreement with me then ill have to, or maybe theres somebody out there whos experienced this and can give me a few pointers ?

Hi guys, Looking for a pair of cheapo silvercans -- please let me know UK posted price. Cheers!