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Found 43 results

  1. I've been watching builds threads in a lurky way for some years now, and I've been itching to do one, so here we go..... Kicking off with rule break No. 1. It starts with a built car, BUT....... I've had to 3d print the kit I'm going to build before I start. Making sure everything lines up and appropriate strength is in the appropriate places is a wise thing to do before I start throwing glue & paint around. There has also been a lot of trial and error and many wrongly formed and broken parts (exhausts) along the way. So here it is, bare parts, empty gearbox, no driver / windscreen (I broke the windscreen frame kludging the race cage in so printing another). Teardown time for final build. I may post up some background, modifications and tips for printing this project in the TC Designs forum, to reduce fail piles (see pic) for anyone else doing it. Failed stuff is not wasted and becomes a test pile for adhesives, primers and really expensive chrome paint which is absolutely useless. Oh by the way, this is my first time using 20% carbon fibre PLA filament. Nasty stuff, so any sanding / filing is best done wet. Its really strong & light but smaller parts are very brittle.
  2. There's a lot of history to cover with this project, and I may have previously covered some of it already, although I can't find it right now. Essentially, this is the story of how I came into possession of a vintage SRB chassis and parts, and how those parts came together to build a race car. We begin back in 2012, at the Tamiyaclub 10th year anniversary swapmeet and bash, where I had the pleasure of meeting lots of like-minded Tamiya enthusiasts in person for the very first time, not least being Mr. Tamiyaclub himself, @netsmithUK. At the time, I had owned my Buggy Champ Gold Edition for less than a year, and although I loved it, I was too precious with it to really enjoy driving it. In fact at that time, it had only been carefully around the flat at home. I had hoped to pick up a vintage SRB project for a more hands-on approach to SRB ownership, but I expected any donor chassis would be well above my price range. It turns out, I was wrong! Because Netsmith had his own swap table, and was trading all manner of vintage parts at knockdown prices. Spying a bargain, I came away with a vintage chassis, complete with Scorcher roll hoop, complete transmission and front suspension, although it was missing the wheels and tyres, front body post and steering crank and links, radio box and rear cage. I also bagged a set of Proline gold wheels, You-G front tyres, sand paddle rear tyres, and a new rear cage. All for a bargain basement sum - I can't remember exactly what I paid for it all, but it was at the lower end of double figures. Of course, it would be a good few years before I got around to doing anything with the old thing, and the first photo I have is from March 2014, when I collected the parts together for a build in what was then my studio and hobby room.
  3. So before you all bombard whoever you bombard when there’s a new release this is my Re Re not Tamiya’s so unofficial 🤫🤫🤫 (Though if I can do it why can’t Tamiya, just call it the Blackfoot SRB or something) . So here are nearly all the bits. We have a Re Re Sand Scorcher with the following, JK coilovers for SRB, JK aluminium chassis plate, a set of Brat wheels and tyres, bearings( didn’t realise they were included) RZ Superstock brushed motor and ball diff, oh and I forgot a quite passable fake Ranger body!! Will be running a 2s lipo shorty. Before I really even have got started I’ve realised I will have to address the motor location issue that the Superstock motor presents. I have sorted it but will detail it in the build as I go along. I haven’t exactly worked everything out especially how I’m going to fix the body especially as I want to be able to use the SS body as well!!!
  4. Like most I love the SRB and refuse to accept that it is challenged to handle well in turns or speeds. With the RChannel suspension, the handling is night and day better.. and softening the suspension helps a bunch with keeping it planted. I am able to do full speed turns with the solid axle on asphalt and it will not flip over!!! So next up was pushing for more speed. Couple of years ago, I managed to get a Novak 13.5 brushless in there, top speed was so so. A few weeks ago, I dropped in a viper 10.5. Well that pushed it to the limit, had to be gentle on throttle. Nonetheless I took the SRB to the beach along with my sons outlaw rampage. I managed 5 minutes of runs on the soft sand before it started to glitch.. sensor wires had picked up moisture, so game over for dad. So I thought, either I have to go back to a brushed motor or pick up a sealed sensorless brushless. My sons Rampage had a 13T team brood black can. It looks like a mabuchi but it’s black, has bearing and internal fan (crawler style). It has some kick. So I ordered one and dropped it in the SRB. It had decent speed but nowhere near the 13.5 brushless. So I got to thinking about gear ratios. What if I could switch to 48 p or 64 p and drop the gear ratio. Easy enough task as the SRB output shaft uses a cross pin, so just would need to fine the right bore spur holder. I had a spare XV01, so I checked that, hole was a small, would have to be drilled out. So I grabbed my phone and searched eBay for Sand Scorcher gear ratio. Low and behold there was a Thorpe spur gear older and asking price wasn’t obscene ($16).. So I picked that up. Well it arrived today so I started tinkering. I didn’t have enough 48p gear, so I switched to 64p. Pinion wise the biggest you can use is a 42t (64p) which clears the upper and lower screw holes for gear cover. Spur to match would have to be about an 84t, which I didn’t have. I did have an 88, so I used that one mated it with 36t. Mesh was perfect. FDR dropped from 6.5 for the (20/65) to 4.88! Placed gear cover back on and the gears cleared it perfectly. Took it out for a spin.. now we’re talking.. had very good speed. Drove it hard for a bit and temped the motor.. 140°F.. so not bad! Hmmm 🤔 what to do now
  5. Grastens Builds the: A memorable build of great personal significance begins! Overview (aka Grastens' Understanding of the Buggy Champ and its Predecessors) The Tamiya Buggy Champ was released in 2009, as a re-issue of the original Rough Rider that first appeared in 1979. Along with the Sand Scorcher, it played a role in the popularization of off-road RC buggy racing. The chassis featured full cast-metal independent suspension, which emulated the Volkswagen Beetles that was the basis for many dune buggies of the time. As such, the performance was also quite similar to the full-size subject, which at the time represented an improvement over the current state of off-road RC buggies. The Rough Rider in particular was based on the Bob Maynard Racing Funco SSII, and was set to become a properly-licenced version of his bright-orange racer. However, the deal fell through during the prototype stage, and as a result, the name was changed to “Rob Mitchell Racing” (Tamiyabase has some more information on this for further reading). If nothing else, this footnote reaffirms Tamiya’s attention to authenticity in those early days of their RC venture. The suspension was not the only factor influencing its scale performance: the use of a water-resistant mechanism box to protect the electrical components from moisture damage also allowed the buggy to tackle the elements. This opened up new possibilities for running, which contributed to the chassis’ popularity among more casual enthusiasts. The bodywork did require some deviation from the original Funco buggies to fit the mechanism box, but for all intents and purposes the Rough Rider was an authentic dune buggy at 1:10 scale – and a fraction of the price! The combination of scale aesthetics and performance was befitting the “Model Suitable for Radio Control” philosophy that Tamiya’s nascent RC department sought to embrace. With pronounced positive rear camber and no rear differential, the Rough Rider was really best suited for sandy beaches and dunes – again, like the real thing. As mentioned, the chassis was also used for the Sand Scorcher, which took the Beetle theme even further by introducing a modified Volkswagen-style shell over the original platform. Later, Tamiya would use the chassis underneath a Ford F-150 Ranger body as its own release. In response to the growing number of racers using these buggies, Tamiya would eventually develop the chassis further for the Super Champ (now around today as the Fighting Buggy). The chassis became known as the SRB (Special Racing Buggy), and for all its innovation, there were plenty of improvements that could be made to increase its performance. It has been written that the Rough Rider and Sand Scorcher may have created the “cottage industry” of aftermarket parts (think Team CRP, MIP, Thorp, etc.) as enterprising builders and racers sought to gain the edge on the track. Popular upgrades included items such as lightweight suspension arms, alloy chassis plates, parts to replace the mechanism box with a lighter solution (addressed later with the Super Champ), and an ever-increasing variety of wheel and tire combinations. The legacy of the Rough Rider (and Sand Scorcher) may be similar to that of the later Grasshopper and Hornet, which also brought off-road RC cars to a wider audience. As buggy design evolved into something quite different in the name of outright performance, the scale appearance and driving characteristics of the SRBs remain part of a past era, though revived in other genres such as trail driving! Grastens and the Buggy Champ I bought my Buggy Champ at the local hobby shop (back then, Advance Hobbies near Toronto, Ontario) for what was probably $350. I had been in the hobby for about one year, having started with another Tamiya: the Toyota GT-One on the F103RS. I enjoyed it immensely, and a whetted appetite was now eager to try off-road buggies. At the time, I had little clue as to what the Buggy Champ represented. I found myself living the experience of a Rough Rider enthusiast: once marvelling at its performance off-road, I sought to improve its overall handling by introducing new parts. The modifications I remember the most were the alloy chassis plate, the ball differential, and a succession of coil-spring dampers that replaced the leak-prone originals. I had even considered the RC Channel double-wishbone upgrade for the rear suspension, if only because I found the positive rear camber made handling tricky, and the wear on the outsides of the tires was not looking good… Life intervened, as it usually does, and for a period, the Buggy Champ sat along with my other cars on the shelf. Over time, it was joined by others, and as the on-off relationship with the hobby continued, the car saw less and less action – I would be too engrossed with other projects, like the Lancia Rally that I had taken on and with which I began my love affair with RC rally cars. Unfortunately, life then saw me sell the Buggy Champ (along with the shell for said Lancia Rally) when I needed the funds for a trip. I sold the car to another member on TamiyaClub, who, like me, had been looking for a fun and reliable runner. Perhaps it is best that I have since forgotten this member’s name (and I believe this member no longer frequents the forums), for it broke my heart to learn that this member decided it was not to his taste and sat it on the shelf. I had given him a bargain for it, too… It was at that moment that I came to realize my mistake, though it would take some more time to regret it (after all, it was a good trip!). The Intervening Years Over time, while moving a well-loved car for pocket change to someone who did not appreciate it still hurt, I could also understand that the Buggy Champ was a car best suited for a specific set of conditions. As I grew up and settled down, I would continue to waver between full and zero commitment to the hobby. I struggled with unemployment for an embarrassing amount of time, which definitely affected my ability to continue with my RC cars. Even when I did find full-time work, a diagnosis of clinical depression and the resulting medical struggles changed my life and threw it into turmoil… … And as if in the eye of a storm, I calmly picked up my RC cars again. This time, having finally moved in with my partner and being otherwise completely independent, I found I could focus more time, energy, and (most importantly) money on the hobby that I knew I still loved. The acquisition of a Tamiya Hotshot (courtesy of said partner!) rekindled my interest, and a succession of builds signalled my return to radio-controlled cars. And then: well, where I now live, there is a beach less than an hour’s drive away… Could I really be thinking…? Even with all of the other off-road buggies I have now? A Second Chance Everything pointed me towards another Buggy Champ. Remembering how much I have come to miss my first one, I made the decision to find one – and this time, not let go! Unfortunately, like pretty much everything, the Buggy Champs that were once plentiful online and beyond (namely, the ‘Metallic Editions’ in silver and gold) were now going for way more than I recalled. I had to remember that it had been several years since I last seriously sought one out, but this seemed ridiculous; the majority of them were asking $700 and beyond. The advent of coronavirus inspired me to turn ‘local,’ which is to say to the local online classified ads. There, I found a seller who had a new-in-sealed-box Buggy Champ for well under what everyone else wanted for theirs, out of Toronto. It was even somewhat near where I grew up… I wanted it, but my bank account did not! I made a deal to put down a deposit on it, following which I would come up with the rest of the money in two weeks’ time. I had it all paid for by the next week, and while perhaps I could have negotiated a better price, I felt grateful to have found a brand-new one in the country that did not cost me half a month’s pay! The other nice thing about buying within the country is that shipping is commensurately fast. By the following week, I had it in my hands! When I opened it up and set out the shrink-wrapped box, I just stood there, staring at it: while I may never find my original Buggy Champ again, I have been given another chance to experience it. With the experience I had accumulated with other models in that time, I would appreciate it more than I ever could have back then, and now know better than to part with this one – would you believe I embraced the box and told it I would never let go? I was unaware of the full extent of my emotions until the day it arrived. Maybe it will become a nice memory of mine in this hobby. The Kit Many of you have seen a Buggy Champ before, but for the Gamilans, Betelgeusians, generally-uninformed, and nostalgic types like me out there, I have some photos: Would you also believe I found the box smaller than I remembered? The beauty of a new-in-box example is that I can relive the build, too! That blister packaging brought back so many happy memories: Beneath the blister pack with the tires, there is a special box, decorated with photos of the Buggy Champ in action. The contents of that box: Essentially, it contains all the hardware and most of the main chassis pieces. Under the blister pack with the cast-metal suspension parts, we have the grey three-piece wheels. Sitting in the centre compartment in bags were the bodyshell, the rear bumper, body parts, mechanism box, and the kit-supplied ESC: At the very bottom are those famous box-art decals: And thus, the kit! It will go together in a manner unlike many modern offerings, which I look forward to! The Build The Rough Rider and Sand Scorcher were popular in their day, and the Buggy Champ and re-released Sand Scorcher also enjoyed a following. However, in over a decade since they were re-released, the supply of non-LiPo batteries compatible with the kit’s mechanism box had seemingly gone from small to infinitesimal… There are still several offset-hump Ni-MH batteries available in Europe, and I found myself importing three of them from the U.K. specifically for this model. With the first one, I had the local hobby shop (again, Advance Hobbies) produce some for me from two standard stick packs I supplied. Far away from them or any other suitable hobby shop this time, I went overseas. My experience with the first one showed me that I could not make good use of a ball differential in the back, but that the alloy chassis I had purchased was definitely useful. I found one online, and decided to pair that with a smaller metal bumper for this kit. The electronics I will be using: Pictured are an aftermarket Spektrum-compatible receiver, an old HPI SF-10W servo, an Axial RC LED module that will allow me to fit lights, and a Tamiya TBLE-02S ESC. The last-named is of great confusion to me. I clearly recall my first Buggy Champ being issued with the TEU-101BK, and thought that the original re-issue’s run (excluding Metallic Editions) predated the TBLE-02S completely. There is a thread on TamiyaClub stating that kits are not shrink-wrapped at the factory, so I have no illusions about that. However, is this really as the kit had arrived? While I was at it, I purchased some Sand Scorcher body accessories: The plan had been to use the exhaust pipe from this set on the back of the chassis, though it looks like the Buggy Champ was not issued one for good reason: it is likely not to fit with the shell on the chassis… The build will therefore make use of an aftermarket front bumper and metal chassis plate, but will otherwise be mechanically-stock. LEDs will be equipped using a leftover sprue full of light buckets and lenses from my Comical Avante build, which was a suggestion from Tamiya’s release of the sprue as its own hop-up part. At this juncture, I intend to use the kit-supplied decals, but will not use the suggested TS-12 Orange for the paint. For body colour, I actually have a few options that do not require more purchases: on hand, I have cans of TS-43 Racing Green (the colour I used for my first Buggy Champ, I think), TS-35 Park Green, TS-15 Blue, and TS-8 Italian Red. I even have enough TS-26 Pure White and TS-7 Racing White if I feel so inclined, but at present, I do not. The Racing Green would evoke my first buggy, though the possibilities of the other colours I have are compelling – a decision I am happy to mull over while I build the chassis. The rare revisit of a memory is the subject of this build thread. Onward!
  6. Looking for a SRB rear camber kit from rcchannel or perhaps another supplier.
  7. Since this seems to come up every once in a while, I thought I would write this all down in one spot for the sake of posterity. SRB (Special Racing Buggy) wheels can be placed into (3) groups: 1. Rough Rider/Buggy Champ. 2. Super Champ/Fighting Buggy/Sand Scorcher. 3. Ford Ranger XLT/Brat. The RR/BC wheels are 1.7”, 5 spoke, and silver. The Fast Attack Vehicle uses the same but molded in brown. All of these sets use the square block style road/sand tires. The SC/FB/SS wheels are 1.5”, 5 spoke, and white. These are also used on the Grasshopper, Hornet, and Frog. All of these sets use the same ribbed sand tire on the front. On the rear, the SS and GH use sand paddles, and the SC/FB, Frog, and Hornet use the spiked off road tires. The XLT/Brat wheels are 1.7”, 8 spoke (thanks @mtbkym01), and white. The front wheel on these sets are the same width as the rear so all four wheels use the same square block tire as the rear of the RR/BC. There are some variations to these such as the Jun Watanabe Hornet (black wheels) and the Brat blue edition (black wheels). If anyone else would like to info or corrections, please do so! Also, this might be a good place to list 3rd party manufacturers that made wheels or tires for these cars or in this size range.
  8. Hi all! I’m new here and inherited this old SRB Tamiya from my uncle maybe 12 or so years ago. And it’s been sitting in the shed ever since. Got the itch to break it back out and get it running! Any tips/info/help would be much appreciated!
  9. I'm not an RC expert at all. I've had this beat up Super Champ since my brother bought it back in the early 80s. In 2014, I modernized it with some spare RC parts my friends gave me. It's sat in a box in storage until yesterday when I unboxed it (video below). Sadly, last night while I let my 12 year old play with it, a front lower control arm disappeared in the grass I'm hoping to get a newer SRB front end as mine is totally knackered anyway. I notice Tamiya USA still sells the new lower fronts (but not uppers) from the 2014 rerelease. If I get those and the modern ball cups will that fix it? I think someone mentioned I'd need to change the balls on the front stub axles that go into the ballcups to a 5mm? https://www.twitch.tv/videos/1239499832
  10. Hi, I am new to the Forum and signed up to help me learn a bit more about the original Rough Rider i recently purchased and also hopefully source some of the broken parts. I am looking for a set of (left and right) Front axle mounts (Part N6) per the original manual. I have attached a picture of mine which are damaged. I believe they are the Mk1 version (please correct me if i am wrong) and would like to replace with the same. Shipping would need to be to Sydney Australia, which of course i would cover! Appreciate it if someone has a set they would be willing to sell. Regards Brent
  11. So my SRB runner was built with a sport tuned motor. I burned the first motor years ago.. so when I replaced it, it went with the smaller spur pinion option. Today, my son was running it in the yard on grass.. after first pack I noticed it was warm.. a few minutes into second pack and car stopped. Motor was definitely hot and smelled crispy! Now a few years have passed between burnt motors but I recalled the old one stopped because one of the brushes had detached. So I looked in armature window and yep, same issue. So I’m now considering other motors options. I modded. Gear box years back to accept a standard brushed can and I’ve seen @Shodog 13t HW EZrun combo. im wondering if there are any other options?
  12. In the market for a Sand Scorcher, Super Champ, Buggy Champ or any of the SRB cars. Project is ok. Re-Re is ok.
  13. I would like to find a Sand Scorcher or Fighting Buggy. Re-Re is fine, or vintage project is fine also. Will consider other SRB chassis I would prefer trade with somebody looking for an original Wild Willy M38.
  14. I've rescued my original SuperChamp racer from the clutches of a friend I'd given it to long ago. Other than no longer having the Thorp diff or any good remaining tires (probably gave ten different sets with the car!), it's as complete as it used to be. The original bits and pieces disappeared long ago, I've picked up some re-re spares to replaced cracked and broken bits. Do I remove all the faux anodizing (Metal tint spray can) and bring all the aluminum bits back to bare metal and try to duplicate it again along with the new bits getting the same treatment? Or go for the blast cabinet finish on everything? I am going to run the car... there's so little left. The Novak and steer servo still work perfectly! Currently restoring an early 'Cadillac' RC10 into a runner, as it was my replacement for the SuperChamp when it just couldn't be kept competitive back in...'84 - '85?
  15. I drilled the roll bar, 3D printed some spacers and mounted up some BoomRacing boomerang piggyback shocks (no springs, 25weight oil) works nicely!
  16. Hi all, I recently acquired a Tamiya Sand Scorcher 2010 re release and have set it up with a 3350mah battery and torque tuned silver can (i thought any more powerful would be overkill with this chassis). Everything else is stock and I've just built up the chassis a week ago and have tried it out a few times on varied surfaces. (even in Britain's march snow). i find it great but i have found a few problems which as an inexperienced R/C driver/ builder I don't know how to solve. First off is the steering linkages, these seem to have an awful lot of play in them and i have bent them a few times. Next is the shocks which seem to leak like there's no tomorrow. I've also seen some lovely aluminium centreline wheels for the SRB online but haven't found any for sale. Lastly is the aluminium chassis worth it? I'm just asking as i have limited experience in this field so not sure if these are one off jobs or if they are available to buy anywhere. If anyone has any advice or pictures of their own work it would all be appreciated. Regards, Ned P.S. the blitzer beetle has a seemingly good stance and strikes me as something that would actually be pretty capable once Hopped up. Has anyone had any experience with upgraded blitzers and is it worth getting one or just investing in a modern buggy/truggy?
  17. Hi all, i'm looking for a Ford Ranger XLT. From NIB to restoration project, looking forward to your offers. I'm located in Germany. Cheers. Dominik
  18. Wanted: Aftermarket front oil shocks for the tamiya hornet to be installed in the same way like the stocks. Basically i need you-g, parma etc these kind of shocks. Used or new. Thanks
  19. Looking to buy a box art style front bumper/cage to fit a Sandscorcher SRB. I usually buy bits from a certain online auction site as its easy, but it appears that's about 90% of my recent purchases have been from TC members so though I'd come direct instead! I've got 3 MK1 SRB's to try & resurrect at present & the list of parts I need is growing daily, if you've got anything you think may be of interest please let me know what you've got
  20. I'm not very good at ball diffs. I completely melted the one in my DF03 and had to buy hardened outdrives. I snapped the bolt in my Mad Monkey diff after one day of racing. The diff in my B4.1 Worlds FT held up to a couple of seasons racing, but I was so worried about breaking it that once set, I never touched it. Last week I put a Tamiya SRB ball diff into my vintage lightweight racer project. I had it done up reasonably tight, so there was still some diff action but it was stiff. On Sunday it lasted 1 lap on astro (with Frog tyres and a fairly hot mod motor, not sure what as the label has come off, I thought it was an old 19x1 but it feels faster, possibly a 15x1) before I lost all drive. I figured the motor was too hot, there was too much traction, and I'd stripped something in the box. However when I finally got around to checking yesterday, I found the diff had come completely loose. There was nothing in the instructions about using threadlock, so I assumed the diff would hold together if it was done up tight enough. But how tight should it be? Should it be so tight that there's barely any diff action? Right now if I turn one wheel, it turns the motor - not the opposite wheel. If I lock the spur then it will turn the other wheel, but it's pretty tight. Will that give me any diff action on track, or will I be running as if I have a spool? The SRB diff isn't cheap. Should I assemble with threadlock so I can run it looser and get some diff action? It seems the diff wants to slip if it isn't done up fairly tight. Or should I swap to a slower motor to save the diff balls from meltdown?
  21. I've got a few new old stock brass 20t original pinions for SRB's Champ etc £7 each inc P+P in UK PP gift
  22. Hello All in UK, Bruiser clear parts tree. NIP £10? Venom speed meter BNIP £12 posted ESC's: Tamiya TEU-104BK new £12 posted LRP IPC, NO LIMIT brushed racing ESC forward with brake, No reverse, diode included for motor brakes. BNIB £20 shipped Please PM me if your interested in anything. I can combine shipping. James.
  23. I took the rough rider out to the beach with me over the weekend. We built a jump so it could catch some air. I love roosting in the sand. The 17turn motor makes it hook up.
  24. I have found an original SRB! It was found dismantled in a shed at an estate sale, looks to be about 90% complete in terms of parts. The odd thing is that the gearbox seems to have some sort of glue sealing it, not much so opening it shouldn't be a difficult task. Would make a fantastic parts car or candidate for restoration. I found the electronics in a separate box, but unfortunately the wires seem to have been clipped. Unfortunate, but they are included if you would like to re-solder or rewire them. Bearings are also included for those that want to make this a running model. As expected the gearbox will need to be shimmed since it has clearly been sitting for a while. I have attached some pictures, and the rear dampeners and the pinion are included, they are just hidden in the chassis tub. Here are the image links: http://postimg.org/image/47u1ap9yv/ http://postimg.org/image/8i8p6af1z/ http://postimg.org/image/5bj7js0xj/ http://postimg.org/image/ak96kjd13/ Willing to let it go for 65$ plus shipping or trade for re-re kits or kyosho mini z optima, show us what you have to offer. The buyer will be responsible for the cost of shipping. I am located in the USA so shipping within the states shouldn't be to much since in this dismantled state it should fit in a large flat rate box. I always ship with a tracking number if possible. I am willing to ship the item out of country/over seas for my UK friends but the buyer will still be responsible for shipping costs. If a trade is made, we will each pay for the shipping of our own piece and we will provide tracking numbers. Otherwise, payments are to be made via paypal only. So let me know what you guys think, at this time not willing to part it out, if nothing happens here I'll just hold on to her.
  25. I traded a few of my aluminum cnc sand scorcher chassis to my friend and he posted two of them for sale on ebay. this one is machined on the top and bottom, it took about 2.5 hours on my little cnc machine. Also I sand blasted it for a matt finish http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Tamiya-Sand-Scorcher-VW-Chassis-plate-Aluminum-NEW-USA-Scale-Custom-TRF-SRB-/121789807050?hash=item1c5b3cf9ca:g:6QEAAOSwwbdWIYsg This one is machined on the top only and the screw holes for the radio box are counter sunk. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Tamiya-Sand-Scorcher-VW-Chassis-plate-Aluminum-NEW-USA-Scale-Custom-TRF-SRB-/121789805135?hash=item1c5b3cf24f:g:GWIAAOSw5ZBWIYdO This is what they look like mounted, They can mount in the regular spot or they can be attached above the mount tabs. They are 1/8 thick aluminum. I test fit each one the holes line up perfect.
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