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Found 34 results

  1. Hi, I am new to the Forum and signed up to help me learn a bit more about the original Rough Rider i recently purchased and also hopefully source some of the broken parts. I am looking for a set of (left and right) Front axle mounts (Part N6) per the original manual. I have attached a picture of mine which are damaged. I believe they are the Mk1 version (please correct me if i am wrong) and would like to replace with the same. Shipping would need to be to Sydney Australia, which of course i would cover! Appreciate it if someone has a set they would be willing to sell. Regards Brent
  2. So my SRB runner was built with a sport tuned motor. I burned the first motor years ago.. so when I replaced it, it went with the smaller spur pinion option. Today, my son was running it in the yard on grass.. after first pack I noticed it was warm.. a few minutes into second pack and car stopped. Motor was definitely hot and smelled crispy! Now a few years have passed between burnt motors but I recalled the old one stopped because one of the brushes had detached. So I looked in armature window and yep, same issue. So I’m now considering other motors options. I modded. Gear box years back to accept a standard brushed can and I’ve seen @Shodog 13t HW EZrun combo. im wondering if there are any other options?
  3. In the market for a Sand Scorcher, Super Champ, Buggy Champ or any of the SRB cars. Project is ok. Re-Re is ok.
  4. I would like to find a Sand Scorcher or Fighting Buggy. Re-Re is fine, or vintage project is fine also. Will consider other SRB chassis I would prefer trade with somebody looking for an original Wild Willy M38.
  5. I've rescued my original SuperChamp racer from the clutches of a friend I'd given it to long ago. Other than no longer having the Thorp diff or any good remaining tires (probably gave ten different sets with the car!), it's as complete as it used to be. The original bits and pieces disappeared long ago, I've picked up some re-re spares to replaced cracked and broken bits. Do I remove all the faux anodizing (Metal tint spray can) and bring all the aluminum bits back to bare metal and try to duplicate it again along with the new bits getting the same treatment? Or go for the blast cabinet finish on everything? I am going to run the car... there's so little left. The Novak and steer servo still work perfectly! Currently restoring an early 'Cadillac' RC10 into a runner, as it was my replacement for the SuperChamp when it just couldn't be kept competitive back in...'84 - '85?
  6. I drilled the roll bar, 3D printed some spacers and mounted up some BoomRacing boomerang piggyback shocks (no springs, 25weight oil) works nicely!
  7. Hi all, I recently acquired a Tamiya Sand Scorcher 2010 re release and have set it up with a 3350mah battery and torque tuned silver can (i thought any more powerful would be overkill with this chassis). Everything else is stock and I've just built up the chassis a week ago and have tried it out a few times on varied surfaces. (even in Britain's march snow). i find it great but i have found a few problems which as an inexperienced R/C driver/ builder I don't know how to solve. First off is the steering linkages, these seem to have an awful lot of play in them and i have bent them a few times. Next is the shocks which seem to leak like there's no tomorrow. I've also seen some lovely aluminium centreline wheels for the SRB online but haven't found any for sale. Lastly is the aluminium chassis worth it? I'm just asking as i have limited experience in this field so not sure if these are one off jobs or if they are available to buy anywhere. If anyone has any advice or pictures of their own work it would all be appreciated. Regards, Ned P.S. the blitzer beetle has a seemingly good stance and strikes me as something that would actually be pretty capable once Hopped up. Has anyone had any experience with upgraded blitzers and is it worth getting one or just investing in a modern buggy/truggy?
  8. Hi all, i'm looking for a Ford Ranger XLT. From NIB to restoration project, looking forward to your offers. I'm located in Germany. Cheers. Dominik
  9. Wanted: Aftermarket front oil shocks for the tamiya hornet to be installed in the same way like the stocks. Basically i need you-g, parma etc these kind of shocks. Used or new. Thanks
  10. Looking to buy a box art style front bumper/cage to fit a Sandscorcher SRB. I usually buy bits from a certain online auction site as its easy, but it appears that's about 90% of my recent purchases have been from TC members so though I'd come direct instead! I've got 3 MK1 SRB's to try & resurrect at present & the list of parts I need is growing daily, if you've got anything you think may be of interest please let me know what you've got
  11. I'm not very good at ball diffs. I completely melted the one in my DF03 and had to buy hardened outdrives. I snapped the bolt in my Mad Monkey diff after one day of racing. The diff in my B4.1 Worlds FT held up to a couple of seasons racing, but I was so worried about breaking it that once set, I never touched it. Last week I put a Tamiya SRB ball diff into my vintage lightweight racer project. I had it done up reasonably tight, so there was still some diff action but it was stiff. On Sunday it lasted 1 lap on astro (with Frog tyres and a fairly hot mod motor, not sure what as the label has come off, I thought it was an old 19x1 but it feels faster, possibly a 15x1) before I lost all drive. I figured the motor was too hot, there was too much traction, and I'd stripped something in the box. However when I finally got around to checking yesterday, I found the diff had come completely loose. There was nothing in the instructions about using threadlock, so I assumed the diff would hold together if it was done up tight enough. But how tight should it be? Should it be so tight that there's barely any diff action? Right now if I turn one wheel, it turns the motor - not the opposite wheel. If I lock the spur then it will turn the other wheel, but it's pretty tight. Will that give me any diff action on track, or will I be running as if I have a spool? The SRB diff isn't cheap. Should I assemble with threadlock so I can run it looser and get some diff action? It seems the diff wants to slip if it isn't done up fairly tight. Or should I swap to a slower motor to save the diff balls from meltdown?
  12. I've got a few new old stock brass 20t original pinions for SRB's Champ etc £7 each inc P+P in UK PP gift
  13. Hello All in UK, Bruiser clear parts tree. NIP £10? Venom speed meter BNIP £12 posted ESC's: Tamiya TEU-104BK new £12 posted LRP IPC, NO LIMIT brushed racing ESC forward with brake, No reverse, diode included for motor brakes. BNIB £20 shipped Please PM me if your interested in anything. I can combine shipping. James.
  14. I took the rough rider out to the beach with me over the weekend. We built a jump so it could catch some air. I love roosting in the sand. The 17turn motor makes it hook up.
  15. I have found an original SRB! It was found dismantled in a shed at an estate sale, looks to be about 90% complete in terms of parts. The odd thing is that the gearbox seems to have some sort of glue sealing it, not much so opening it shouldn't be a difficult task. Would make a fantastic parts car or candidate for restoration. I found the electronics in a separate box, but unfortunately the wires seem to have been clipped. Unfortunate, but they are included if you would like to re-solder or rewire them. Bearings are also included for those that want to make this a running model. As expected the gearbox will need to be shimmed since it has clearly been sitting for a while. I have attached some pictures, and the rear dampeners and the pinion are included, they are just hidden in the chassis tub. Here are the image links: http://postimg.org/image/47u1ap9yv/ http://postimg.org/image/8i8p6af1z/ http://postimg.org/image/5bj7js0xj/ http://postimg.org/image/ak96kjd13/ Willing to let it go for 65$ plus shipping or trade for re-re kits or kyosho mini z optima, show us what you have to offer. The buyer will be responsible for the cost of shipping. I am located in the USA so shipping within the states shouldn't be to much since in this dismantled state it should fit in a large flat rate box. I always ship with a tracking number if possible. I am willing to ship the item out of country/over seas for my UK friends but the buyer will still be responsible for shipping costs. If a trade is made, we will each pay for the shipping of our own piece and we will provide tracking numbers. Otherwise, payments are to be made via paypal only. So let me know what you guys think, at this time not willing to part it out, if nothing happens here I'll just hold on to her.
  16. I traded a few of my aluminum cnc sand scorcher chassis to my friend and he posted two of them for sale on ebay. this one is machined on the top and bottom, it took about 2.5 hours on my little cnc machine. Also I sand blasted it for a matt finish http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Tamiya-Sand-Scorcher-VW-Chassis-plate-Aluminum-NEW-USA-Scale-Custom-TRF-SRB-/121789807050?hash=item1c5b3cf9ca:g:6QEAAOSwwbdWIYsg This one is machined on the top only and the screw holes for the radio box are counter sunk. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Tamiya-Sand-Scorcher-VW-Chassis-plate-Aluminum-NEW-USA-Scale-Custom-TRF-SRB-/121789805135?hash=item1c5b3cf24f:g:GWIAAOSw5ZBWIYdO This is what they look like mounted, They can mount in the regular spot or they can be attached above the mount tabs. They are 1/8 thick aluminum. I test fit each one the holes line up perfect.
  17. Does anyone have a matches pair of SRB / Buggy champ gearbox halves spare and for sale? This is for a beach runner so I am happy with later or re-re type, provided all the threads are good and the rear suspension arm holes aren't oval. Based in the UK but happy to buy WW. AlG
  18. While my vintage buggy still has all the standard wheels and rubber, i wanted to take advantage of commonly available alternatives so i could put the original stuff away. The rear is simple if you have the re-re axles as they already have a pin layout allowing you to add a 12mm Hex adapter and fit most 2.2 wheels of your choice. However I was still looking at the best options for adding 2.2 wheels and tyres to the front of my Rough Rider, and wanted to share my journey and solution. The twin challenges were getting rims that were bearing enabled, and extending the axle out enough so the new rim didn't interfere with the steering upright. I found some JConcepts rims for the front that are meant for Team associated models (they take an imperial bearing but a 5x9x3 with a small shim or loctite still works fine), but they still needed to be spaced out far enough that there were too few threads for the nut. So I needed an axle extender. I could have ordered the CRP extenders but with the Sth pacific peso heading south daily, and me being too impatient to wait for up to 30 day delivery, I looked around for some alternative options. I usually start this kind of DIY bodge with the thought of "what can I repurpose" rather than starting from scratch. So I looked at the problem from 2 directions was there something with an M4 thread to screw onto the existing axle that had an OD close to 5mm, or was there something with a 5mm OD to match the axle OD, that could be tapped for an m4 thread. In the end I tried both methods. Option 1 - M4 threaded inserts I found threaded inserts (rivnuts) with M4 threads and a 6mm OD at a local hardware store The rivnuts threaded on to the existing front axle just fine, but obviously the outer diameter was too big to allow my bearings to fit. Not having access to a Lathe, I was wondering how to manage this when it struck me that using a spare rear axle as a holder, I could put the whole lot in a drill, and with gentle pressure use a file to take the 0.8mm I needed off the OD. This turned out to be easier than expected; This worked out fine, but with a largish overhang from the part not reduced which I would take up with a washer and spacer. Option 2 - 5mm OD spacers Coincidentally I found a second option in an electronics store in the form of 5mm steel "stand-off" spacers. These hold a circuit board off another, and were hollow with a 5mm OD, so then needed an M4 thread in them. While I've never used a tap to cut a thread, I did have a set, so figured since they were so cheap, I could probably afford to mess around some. In the end it was again pretty straightforward and seemed to have worked fine. I threaded them full length so I could use an M4 bolt to hold a washer and spacer at the other end. The advantage of this method is that I can easily cut the extension to size, which is not as easy with the rivnuts due to their shape. At the moment I have it at a length that means I add a small spacer and washer to hold the bearing in. I'm waiting until I get the slightly larger bearings before I cut it down to exact size, but have loctited them to the axle so they don't unwind on reversing. The total cost of the rivnut method was ~A$5 (or 25c a piece if you made all 20 into extenders), and the standoff method was a little higher at ~62c a piece. This compares to about A$19 if ordered off ebay, plus i got to install and use them about 1 hour after i started the project.. Here's the end result on my buggy. Hopefully this helps someone else.
  19. The rarest vintage SRB Hop Up. Brand New Old Stock Extremely rare MIP 4x400 kit for Tamiya SRB. Vintage hop up to transform the Tamiya SRB buggies from 2WD to 4WD. I know of 3 others of these kits in existence globally. I can't belive I'm selling it, but I'll never use it and having a clear out over next couple of weeks of some very rare and special SRB hop ups. This packet has been opened but never mounted or run. Contents is 100% complete and absolutely mint. I will also include a white MIP Change box tranny,lightly used and in excellent condition It's likely you will never see another one of these for sale on ebay, Ask me any questions. Thanks http://www.ebay.com/itm/161768573794?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
  20. £35 plus postage Good used condition, camlocks wellnuts and switch cover included Two small stress marks near top receiver box screws 10mm diameter 'melt' in bottom near front wellnut but otherwise sound. Camlock lugs all present and un-cracked Rear wellnut hole intact although front wellnut is compressed so will need to be cut out or used as is (perfectly useable, just not removeable) Payment by paypal gift or charges covered please (international, gift only)
  21. I was wondering if there's any upgrades to the gearbox on the SRB that would make it stronger?
  22. Well, I'm a big Marillion fan, so I had to get this: http://www.steverothery.com/news-update/live-in-rome-cddvd/ Any other bands, tracks that line up with Tamiya RC?
  23. Hi all, I'm sure this question must have been asked and answered a million times already but Google isn't being my friend today. I've recently acquired a couple of vintage SRBs that I was hoping to restore into light runners but I don't have any motors that will fit the vintage SRB gearbox. I've tried the black-can Sport Tuned and that doesn't fit, nor does a Saturn 20, which is my "weapon of choice" for all of my light-duty runners, being bargainously cheap and consistently reliable, providing a good bit of punch without the need for an expensive ESC. Anyway, I'm looking for some photos or a doc somewhere that shows what needs to be done to get modern motors to fit - I'm guessing I need to get hacking, filing and grinding; do people normally cut the motor surround right out and reinforce the remaining motor plate with a stronger steel or ally one, or can the recess be widened with something like a dremel? I am expecting a dremel wheel to get badly clogged trying to grind that soft metal. Has anyone had success milling the motor recess out? I've got access to a pillar drill but it's a single speed which is probably too fast, and I don't think I have a cutter that wide. That said, there are some guys on my street who have a few machining tools who might be willing to let me try to turn the motor recess out. Alternatively, if anyone happens to know of a cheap, Sport-Tuned-esque, easy-to-source motor that will fit the vintage gearbox without the need to buy expensive speedos etc please let me know Thanks in advance and good vibes to anyone who can assist Ax
  24. Hello Everyone, I am the club secretary at Mendip RC Raceway in Weston Super Mare and we are planning a Tamiya Club based weekend in 2014. Dates subject to discussion. We have both an on road and off road track with full timing facilities, sit down cafe, toilet block, covered pits with electric, on site camping and plenty of car parking. We plan to have on road classes for Touring cars, Minis, F1s and anything else on road. For off road racing classes for SRBs, Wild Willys, FAVs/Wild Ones, and any other Tamiya off road 4wd & 2wd cars. After much discussion we are proposing using Tamiya silver (standard or torque tuned) or Black (sport tuned) 540 brushed motors for the event for four reasons. Most tamiya collectors already have them, they are cheap, they will keep the speeds pretty level making the racing close & competitive and the lower speeds will help protect peoples prized cars from too much damaged. All classes depend on the number of entries. On the Saturday night we will have a BBQ and night racing. As Weston Super Mare is a popular holiday destination there is no lack of B&Bs and hotels if camping is not for you as well as pubs, clubs and bars to make a weekend of it for all the family. We will also do souvenir merchandise for the event. We will also encourage a swap meet. I have already spoke with a few people on here and there seems to be a lot of interest. We are currently sorting out our diary and I will be back to publish some dates by the new year. Let me know if you would prefer a Saturday/Sunday meet or a Sunday/Bank Holiday meet if possible. Below are links to our web site with videos of both tracks. http://www.worm-racing.co.uk/ http://www.mendiprcraceway.co.uk/ Let me know any feedback. Paul
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